World Cheese Book

ED NIT EW IO N WORLD CHEESE BOOK EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Juliet Harbutt WORLD CHEESE BOOK WORLD CHEESE BOOK EDITOR-IN-CHIEF JULIET HARBUTT CONTRIBUTORS ANDROUET • MARTIN ASPINWALL • VINCENZO BOZZETTI • KEVIN JOHN BROOME RAN BUCK • SAGI COOPER • DIANNE CURTIN • JIM DAVIES • SHEANA DAVIS ANGELA GRAY • RIE HIJIKATA • RUMIKO HONMA • KATIE JARVIS • MONIKA LINTON GURTH PRETTY • HANSUELI RENZ • RICHARD SUTTON • WILL STUDD KATE ARDING • AAD VERNOOIJ • STÉPHANE BLOHORN DK INDIA Senior Art Editors Ivy Roy, Ira Sharma Art Editor Era Chawla Assistant Editor Saumya Gaur Senior Editor Nidhilekha Mathur Deputy Managing Editor Bushra Ahmed Managing Editor Alicia Ingty Managing Art Editor Navidita Thapa DTP Designers Satish Chandra Gaur, Anurag Trivedi, Manish Chandra Upreti Pre-production Manager Sunil Sharma DK UK Managing Editor Dawn Henderson Managing Art Editor Christine Keilty Senior Jacket Creative Nicola Powling Producer, Pre-Production Rebecca Fallowﬁeld Senior Producer Jen Scothern Art Director Peter Luff Category Publisher Peggy Vance 2009 Edition DK UK Project Editor Danielle Di Michiel Senior Art Editor Elly King Editorial Assistants Shashwati Tia Sarkar, Erin Boeck Motum Designer William Hicks Managing Editor Dawn Henderson Managing Art Editor Christine Keilty Senior Jacket Creative Nicola Powling Senior Production Editor Jennifer Murray Production Controller Alice Holloway Creative Technical Support Sonia Charbonnier DK INDIA DTP Designers Dheeraj Arora, Preetam Singh, Jagtar Singh Senior Designer Tannishtha Chakraborty Design Manager Romi Chakraborty Head of Publishing Aparna Sharma First published in Great Britain in 2009 by Dorling Kindersley Limited 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL A Penguin Random House Company This revised edition published in Great Britain in 2015 by Dorling Kindersley Limited 2 4 6 8 10 9 7 5 3 1 001 – 262224 – June/2015 Copyright © 2009, 2015 Dorling Kindersley Limited All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library ISBN 978-02-411-86-57-2 Printed and bound in China A WORLD OF IDEAS: SEE ALL THERE IS TO KNOW www.dk.com CONTENTS Introduction 6 Germany, Austria, Understanding Cheese 8 and Switzerland 232 Using this Book 9 Germany 233 Fresh Cheeses 10 Austria 236 Aged Fresh Cheeses 12 Switzerland 238 Soft White Cheeses 14 Special Features Semi-soft Cheeses 16 Emmentaler 240 Hard Cheeses 18 Blue Cheeses 20 Scandinavia 244 Flavor-added Cheeses 22 Denmark 245 The Perfect Cheese Board 24 Norway 247 Sweden 248 France 26 Finland 251 Special Features Latvia 252 Beaufort 38 Lithuania 253 Brie de Meaux 46 Comté 56 Eastern Europe and Époisses de Bourgogne 64 Reblochon de Savoie 74 the Near East 254 Greece 256 Roquefort 82 Romania 260 Sainte-Maure de Touraine 92 Slovakia 260 Turkey 261 Italy 100 Cyprus 261 Special Features Lebanon 264 Gorgonzola 108 Israel 264 Mozzarella di Bufala 118 Special Features Parmigiano-Reggiano 128 Feta 258 Taleggio 136 Halloumi 262 Spain and Portugal 144 The Americas 266 Spain 146 United States 270 Portugal 165 Canada 310 Special Features Mexico 318 Mahòn 152 Brazil 319 Manchego 160 Argentina 319 Special Features Great Britain and Monterey Jack 286 Ireland 168 England 170 China and Japan 320 Scotland 206 China 322 Wales 212 Japan 323 Ireland 215 Special Features Cheddar 178 Australia and Stilton 192 New Zealand 326 Yarg Cornish Cheese 200 Australia 328 Caboc 210 New Zealand 335 Caerphilly 216 Glossary 344 Low Countries 224 Index 346 Belgium 225 Contributors 351 The Netherlands 228 Acknowledgments 352 Special Features Gouda 230 later. and milk of a Those made in the valleys and near large markets would cheese. hard to ﬁnd outside their the Cistercian monks. however. shape. the climate. the grazing. and aromas of cheese slow-ripening cheeses they could sell at the end of the is almost inﬁnite. anywhere in the world. the cheese can be found around Romans. Classic examples knowledge and took their include raw milk Camembert recipes for making cheese de Normandie (see p44). in designated areas by various artisan producers European cheeses owe whose combined volume is much to the knowledge of sufﬁciently high that the 6 the Greeks and. developed the cheeses we in this colorful Swiss wood engraving. the soil. from reindeer’s milk in Historically. cheese is made all over Maroilles of Northern France was probably the ﬁrst. who The ancient art of cheesemaking is lovingly depicted region or country of origin. be large. and sold at weekly INTRODUCTION external forces as historical events. milk. later. could be preserved in the form of cheese and. and yak’s milk amount of milk available and the proximity to the in the Kingdom of Bhutan. and breed of animal. Today. while maker and the raw materials the nuances of texture and available to make the molds. that rennet. The Story of Cheese know today as Trappist or monastery cheeses. quicker to ripen. Hence. mountain cheese tended to although milk tastes virtually the same the world over. has been determined by such diverse have been smaller. and legions as their Empire Parmigiano-Reggiano (see spread—a legacy clearly seen p128). some 5. nearest market. eventually. and the terrain. . or wood. causing the milk solids (the curds) and liquid (the whey) to coagulate and separate—allowing humans to learn that their most precious commodity. however. Any milk left to warm by a ﬁre or stored in a sack made from the stomach of an animal would have soured. of which Now. a cheese’s size was determined by the Lapland. the world with all kinds of milk. made by around 400 throughout Europe to this day. with the farmers combining their milk to make the diversity of textures. Artisan cheeses The Middle Ages saw the developed in the last 35 years proliferation of monastic or so. but the discovery of cheese would have come about as a happy accident. taste are inﬂuenced by the whether woven grass. tastes. an enzyme found in the stomach of the milk-producing animal. even if made in large volumes. producers. Introduction Evidence of cheesemaking dates back to 2800 BCE. Shape was determined of experimentation. was the coagulant. ﬁred raw materials—the type clay. to buffalo’s milk in Australia. centuries markets. who built on that the world. The size. made across Europe to feed their by only ten producers. and the cheeses are typically made ingenuity of the cheesemaker.000 years later. tend to be orders across Europe and into invented by individual Britain and Ireland. particularly cheesemakers and are often the Benedictine and. Europe’s traditional the microclimate. religious by the sophistication of the orders. and virtually any cheese can be made summer months when the cows returned to the valleys. The miracle of cheese is that. as it brings out the the fermentation process. and fat in the milk bond and are not lost in the whey. Tiny. Even the most unobservant to be sure it is pure and clean. which is what makes it emulate the complexity provided by Mother Nature. Artisan cheeses vary from day to day. craggy peaks. white wine infused with herbs. the season. cannot fail to see and smell the difference between fresh typically at 165ºF (73ºC) for 15 seconds. The comfort-loving cow is largely found in lush “starter culture” is added. the cheese is molds and yeasts treat each new batch of protein-rich rubbed or sprinkled with salt or soaked in brine before curd as a canvas on which to create their daily masterpiece. the texture. affects the speed of the fermentation process. character of the milk and the unique ﬂavors attributed most have been harnessed by cheesemakers to ensure to the grazing. melliﬂuous milk of the Montbéliarde cow is whey is drained off once it reaches the desired acidity. becoming like marzipan or ground almonds with age. deep Monet yellow cheese. while the whey is a yellow-green The breed of animal can also be a factor. A good afﬁneur. someone who ripens that the end result is more predictable. almost caramel. Minerals also affect the acidity level required for the type of cheese being made.) Most cheeses are made by valleys or. Once out of the mold. so extraordinary and wonderful. Regrettably. The milk is grass. these laboratory-produced cultures cannot cheese has a vintage every day. milk is pumped straight from the milk-producing animal eats. the cheese room. to lactic acid and contributes to the ﬂavor. when the opportunity arises. Compared with liquid. smoother. wild clover. colorful. and the cheesemaker. and this in turn years. are lost when nuance of ﬂavor. rock-strewn results in imperfect cheeses. Gently separating the curds from the whey creates the high yield of the Friesian. some surviving on seemingly nothing. Guernsey or soft. imbued with the essence of the wild. lactose. the milk is pasteurized and must be reintroduced in the depending on the grazing. or turnips. the farmer’s adding rennet (derived from the stomach of a ruminant carefully manicured garden. renowned throughout the Savoie region of France. 2 Coagulation or curdling Once the acidity reaches The animal and its grazing habits add another the desired level. taste of ewe’s milk has been as the degree of coagulation determines the ﬁnal INTRODUCTION valued in Europe and the Middle East for thousands of moisture content of the cheese. cheesemaker to cheesemaker. 4 Shaping and salting The curds are then piled into The microclimate of both the milk and the cheese room molds or hoops and may be pressed before being turned 7 provide the ﬁnishing touch. This both converts the lactose valleys. Once an accident of nature. and unlike cows and sheep. (Too much or not enough acidity aromatic ﬂora from fencerows. speed of ripening. thereby inﬂuencing the milking parlor to the dairy. the conditions in form of a cocktail of bacteria known as a starter culture. The numerous breeds adapt to almost any climate. tearing sparse but texture of the cheese. unlike wine. and ﬂowers that form their diet. These microﬂora. The sweet. including the minerals in the soil. like a crisp. are browsers. is cut. a special cocktail of lactic bacteria or dimension. The and the sweet. being placed in a cold room or cellar to age. affect what plants grow. yielding but a few liters of milk per day. curd looks like white jelly.The Raw Materials How Cheese Is Made The individual identity and personality of a cheese is Cheesemaking equipment and methods vary from determined by a number of facts of nature. while milk-borne bacteria prefer the seclusion and warmth of the interior to work their magic. The climate and landscape. where it is checked and tested subtle ﬂavors of the milk. grasses. but the basic principles involved have remained unchanged for thousands of years. into lactic acid and so begin art and science of cheesemaking. and therefore what a 1 The milk Ideally. wind-borne out of their molds. rich plains. the harder and ﬁner-grained the ﬁnal cheese. for example. aroma. 3 Separation of curds and whey The freshly formed aromatic herbs. silage. The ﬁner the curd produce a richer. . Goats. and the ﬂavor of cheese. high-moisture cheeses. cheeses. It may then be pasteurized. can nurture the simplest cheese to yield every along with the subtleties inherent in milk. while cutting the curds expels Jersey cows produce less milk with larger fat globules that more whey and produces harder cheeses. These convert 5 Aging and the afﬁneur The aging process is the the sweet milk sugar. so. Curdling is the fundamental step in cheesemaking. and sunny mountain pastures. The resulting milk is mammal) or another coagulant to make sure the protein herbaceous. and meadow ﬂowers compared with transferred to a vat and heated until it reaches the compacted feed. Roquefort was the ﬁrst cheese to Community–created PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) for be protected by law. a New York cheese shop. There are various national systems. AOC system in France. as well as the European In 1666. you can assess a cheese’s basic character. whether from a French market. . Certifying the origin of a cheese recognizes its terroir (French) or tipicità (Italian). Hard. There is the odd exception that crosses two of these categories. or elsewhere. or washed-curd that are all but meaningless. or whey. the forerunner for the traditional regional wines and food made throughout the EC. With a little practice. and confusing. and even its ripeness and quality. Semi-soft. this book uses the Editor-in-Chief’s easy-to-grasp system of identifying cheese types. and climate. Aged Fresh. HARD CHEESES (See pp10–11) every cheese-producing country has its own system using (See pp18–19) technical terms such as semi-hard. and Flavor-added. BLUE CHEESES that is left in the cheese determines not only the texture of (See pp20–21) the interior. but most are very obvious. plant life. (See pp12–13) The way it works is that the amount of moisture. based on the type of rind AGED FRESH CHEESES a cheese grows and its texture. Soft White. strength of ﬂavor. such as the French AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) and the Italian DOC (Denominazione d’Origine Controllata). By contrast. smear-ripened. FLAVOR-ADDED CHEESES (See pp22–23) Using this system. UNDERSTANDING CHEESE The Editor-in-Chief ’s system (see pp10–23) identiﬁes seven SOFT WHITE CHEESES different types of cheese: (See pp14–15) Fresh. (See pp16–17) Denomination and 8 Designation of Origin Some cheeses have legally protected names linked to their provenance. how it will behave when SEMI-SOFT CHEESES cooked. semi-cooked. Understanding Cheese FRESH CHEESES There is no universal system for identifying cheeses. Blue. with just a glance and a gentle squeeze you can categorize 99 percent of the cheeses you meet. but also the type of rind and molds the cheese will grow. Instead. pressed uncooked. combined with traditional production methods and raw materials— a combination that cannot be replicated elsewhere. acknowledging that the unique character of each traditionally made food is a result of a complex interaction of soil. to cheese lovers. black dot. and ﬁnish of the cheese. As in ancient times. and long-lasting ﬂavor. aged ones with bread and Map a range of dimensions is given. 4–7in milk is used to make the cheese. the sizing Producer information was unavailable. it is ﬁrm and friable with a pungent. A quick reference to the country that In some cases. and how best to enjoy them. the interior of the cheese. of animal found there and their followed by any designation of origin grazing environment. olives or grated over pasta. accompaniments. 51⁄2–15in (14–38cm). ﬂavor. This cheese is documented as far identity. depending on the season Producer Various photograph shows both the exterior and and availability. vegetables. which dictates the type in the language of the cheese’s origin. Where three or fewer producers make the cheese in a speciﬁc location. In (10–18cm) Photograph some cases. Where there is a range of sizes. a cheese may be made Milk Ewe For ease of recognition. when Odysseus meets its makers and origins. Where there is no Weight and Shape 9–261⁄2lb (4–12kg). TASTING NOTES Yellow and sometimes How to Enjoy Size studded with whole black peppercorns. This offers suggestions on how best This gives the dimensions of a cheese. including cooking usually measurements such as salty. which we have listed lamb’s rennet. for artisan cheesemakers. depending on its shape. The region can Name reveal much about the terroir of a The name of a cheese is always given cheese. where the range is produces the cheese. in a range. the dimensions of the ITALY Sicily indicates the general location or region pictured cheese are given. tasting notes. explained here. “Various” indicates that the cheese is made by more than three producers. Where the symbol is missing. wherever possible. Region Some cheeses are made all over a country. with prominent and important cheeses explored in greater depth. H. giving useful information about back as 900 BCE. length (L). texture. the cheese is produced all 9 Milk wheel over the country. Generally. . The core of the book is formed by chapters cataloging cheeses from each country. ideas and. while others are made by various producers in speciﬁc regions.Using this Book This book will open up a world of exciting cheeses for cheese fans. detailing their origins. Classiﬁcation Scale Each cheese is categorized as one of This symbol provides an at-a-glance the seven types described in the visual guide to the approximate or Editor-in-Chief ’s system largest size of the cheese in relation to (see pp10–23). or the Up to three producers are listed cheese is soft and sold in tubs or pots. Weight and Shape the Cyclops Polyphemus in Homer’s Some cheeses are made in one weight Odyssey. contains information that is key to understanding the identity of the cheese. to enjoy the cheese. The information box included with each cheese entry. Age Introduction This gives the age or range of ages in Pecorino Siciliano PDO This describes the cheese in terms of its USING THIS BOOK which a cheese is at its best. this shows a from a mix of milk from different Classiﬁcation Hard cheese as it is sold. Age 4–12 months of the cheesemaker. This gives the type of animal whose Size D. in many cases. this Tasting Notes and shape only. wine diameter (D). The black dot not known. an average-sized hand. full. a city or town is also listed. HOW TO ENJOY Serve young cheeses with or width (W). status if it applies. the animals. but most are produced cheese is still hand-made using These describe the aroma. height (H). spreadable. 19–21 percent. Beyond their deﬁning features shown FLAVOR Milky with a gentle below. there is much variety among acidity that is lemony fresh or slightly sharp. of being made. sweet. COLOR White in color and usually shiny. Deﬁning Features Fresh cheeses are easy to recognize because they are very white. particularly in terms of texture (see or sour cream. have a very short shelf life. caramelized onions. the aromatic. grassy notes of cow’s milk. crumbly. so the taste is typically described as lactic or milky. like yogurt them. fresh cheeses are so young that they barely have time to develop any more than a whisper of the milk’s potential ﬂavor. On the contrary. and have UNDERSTANDING CHEESE no rind. however. creamy. herbaceous character of goat’s milk. refreshing. the leathery. or even hours. MOIST The high moisture content of fresh cheeses makes them feel soft on the palate. TEXTURE Types vary enormously—soft. . citrusy. Excellent Examples. 10 or ﬁrm and sliceable like halloumi. and roast lamb. lemony. which means they and exterior. Fresh Cheeses NO RIND ∙ HIGH MOISTURE CONTENT ∙ MILD ∙ FRESH ∙ LEMONY Ready to eat within a few days. so lowest fat content MOISTURE They have the highest there is little difference of all the cheese moisture content of all the cheese between the interior categories— categories. usually shiny. with its hints of white wine and crushed almonds. opposite). the skill of the true craftsman can coax the subtle ﬂavors from the milk. FAT CONTENT They have the RIND No rind. This does not mean they are bland. earthy HALLOUMI undertones of buffalo’s milk. AGE From one to seven days or up to 12 months pickled in brine or oil. mousselike. the richness of ewe’s milk that suggests Brazil nuts. stringy like mozzarella. the sweet. or acidic. WITH DRINKS With their high acidity. (See p134). rolled. . giving it a salty taste and texture. 2 3 FRESH CHEESES Once ﬁrm. cream cheese with smoked salmon. Fresh cheeses destined for the alternative. water. produce fresh cheeses from whey. choose a (See p121). such as fromage frais or cottage Halloumi cheese. Excess whey is then because the curd has drained off and the loose curd been “kneaded. (See p262–63). ingredients.” The brine it is preserved is put into cheesecloth or small in gives it a salty molds for a few hours before being tang. or mascarpone in tiramasu. or spices to enhance combined with other ingredients. Mozzarella UNCOOKED The microscopic fat globules such as feta in spanakopita. dishes into classics like feta in a Greek become tough when broiled too long. is used to Firstly. their appearance and ﬂavor. are made by heating the A harder. fragile whey cheese. Ricotta A soft. The yield is very low. For a nonalcoholic is made by ﬂavor. ricotta in Because the fresh curd is placed in hot trapped in fresh cheeses absorb and ravioli. denser milk. wine that complements the more dominant ﬂavors. A similar 1 process. when fresh cheeses are rather than milk.How They’re Made Excellent Examples The most common fresh cheeses. moist. However. it recipe rather than to give it additional wines or cider. then adding a starter culture texture than other of bacteria that will cause the milk fresh cheeses to curdle. the whey. into open-weave basket molds. imprint of the mold. 11 How to enjoy COOKED Fresh cheeses are at their best when melted or baked in classic dishes. dusted in ash. Consequently. salad. or cordial. turned out and salted. (See pp. it is preserved in brine. herbs. shown here. try apple juice or elderﬂower heating cream cheeseboard are often decorated. creamy. only a few ounces from a gallon of whey. transforming the simplest texture means they fall apart in sauces and (See pp120–21).258–59). and crumbly in texture. or mozzarella on pizza. 4 The fragile curds are turned over once in the basket and when Feta removed will bear the Dense. the curd lumps are scooped The curds are left to drain slowly. However. cause the protein to rise to the surface in tiny lumps. Mascarpone fresh cheese is used to add texture to a fresh cheeses are best with crisp white Sweet in ﬂavor. is heated with a little vinegar to raise its acidity and such as ricotta. left over from making hard cheese. this cheese is very elastic and can be concentrate the ﬂavors of the other their high moisture content and loose stretched and formed into different shapes. wooden boxes on rickety tables in French markets. but are increasingly made around the world. and logs you see in small. where a multitude of molds and yeasts are encouraged to grow on the rind. ﬂaky. CLOCHETTE Deﬁning Features Their distinctive thin. When made with cow’s or ewe’s milk the texture is softer. or spices. interior. AGE They are considered FAT CONTENT ripe at WRINKLES As the cheese matures. bells. cones. . fat content of 22–23 percent. 12 RIND The thin. compact. or Geotrichum candidum. the molds less aggressive. pyramids. texture inside gradually changes made with goat’s milk. Aged Fresh Cheeses THIN. GRAY. Thinner cheeses develop After about four a softer rind with less mold and become almost weeks. and the taste creamier and sweeter. goaty and sharp as the dense. wrinkles They have a 10–30 days. FLAVOR Creamy when young.and humidity-controlled caves or cellars. As it ages. cheese ages. they are the small rounds. wrinkled rind is dusted with white mold and blotches of gray and blue. deepen and the interior becomes ﬂaky. herbs. the roof of the mouth. the cheese of their original develops a texture some call “claggy” and coats weight is lost. or wrapped in vine or chestnut leaves over which the molds grow. 50 percent runny just beneath the rind. and turn intensely from moist and slightly crumbly to they have a very pale. the COLOR Since most are like ground almonds. and brittle. The best- known are made in the Loire in France. and dusted lose moisture and with a thin layer of white Penicillium candidum shrink as they age. These creamy and aromatic cheeses are mostly goat cheeses and are often covered in ash. wrinkled rinds are coated with a myriad of molds and yeasts (the most UNDERSTANDING CHEESE dominant of which are splashes of steely gray or MOISTURE They blue moulds called Penicillium glaucum). WRINKLED RIND ∙ GRAINY TO CREAMY ∙ WHITE. almost white. AND BLUE MOLD As the name implies. straw-lined. they become nutty TEXTURE As the cheeses age. these are fresh cheeses that have been allowed to age and dry out in special temperature. rustic-looking cheeses. throughout France. Viognier. followed by a pale-blue mold Ketem gradually shrinks and becomes wrinkled. they will age gracefully and be sold at varying stages of ripeness depending on the tastes of the clientèle. Tola themselves to spreads or dips. simply a “goat cheese salad. as so many especially if it is from the same area as chefs think. The goat’s-milk by the cheesemaker. creamy texture. almost opaque rind that candidum develops. season. the cheese Within 9–12 days a layer of white Penicillium 13 develops a soft. In the hands of a competent afﬁneur. Israel’s Ketem illustrates the growing How to enjoy sliced. aromatic St. Based on French-style aged fresh cheeses. but is not. At this stage they are fresh cheese. or rosé is perfect. Sainte-Maure de Touraine AOC This French log has a pure white. has a silky. the After a few hours the cheeses are ﬁrm enough base of each cheese is sprinkled with salt to to retain their shape and are turned out onto speed up the expulsion of the remaining whey. (See p52). Alternatively. UNCOOKED The texture and rind of the type of goat’s cheese is a travesty. WITH DRINKS A crisp. To use any other popularity of this cheese type.” In the cheese. of these attractive. (See pp92–93) 2 3 Once the level of the curd has dropped. that darkens and covers the cheese. 4 5 Gradually. the protein-rich surface of fresh cheese attracts a range of natural microﬂora. COOKED Chèvre salad is ubiquitous Blanc. thin. This bell-shaped example from France has a rind that is dusted with a ﬁne white mold. The following is a of the curd gradually forces the expulsion general outline of the stages through Clochette of the excess whey. usually in cool cellars. ash-gray exterior. since you various aged fresh cheeses do not lend will not get the wonderful nutty. a light ale or fact. white Sauvignon (See p225). which these cheeses pass. animals. draining trays. beer brings out the nutty side of the typically Crottin de Chavignol (see p54). Each will develop its own Valençay 1 A rind of this truncated pyramid is encrusted individual character that is inﬂuenced The delicate. but no ﬂavor characteristic of these cheeses when This Irish cheese is produced in a large log shape and cheese board is truly complete without one broiled or baked. each contributing to the ripening process. and microclimate in which they topped off until almost overﬂowing. pure-white curd is carefully with a dusty blue-gray mold. hand-ladled into individual molds and then interior is a bright white. it is made with an aged fresh cheese.How They’re Made Excellent Examples When left to age naturally. (See p97). . cheese and the taste of the hops. (See p264). drizzled with olive oil and broiled on rounds of baguette. grazing. over the next few days. The weight are made and ripened. grainy AGED FRESH CHEESES interior which contrasts against the wrinkled. MOISTURE They have a high moisture content. The color varies: stark white when made from goat’s milk. the milk used. buffalo’s. they are sometimes called mold-ripened cheeses. ewe’s. Soft White Cheeses VELVETY WHITE RIND ∙ CREAMY INTERIOR ∙ MUSHROOMY TASTE Camembert de Normandie and Brie de Meaux are the best-known examples and the inspiration behind the variations produced around the world. it depending on the size. a slightly grainy to almost runny texture. can all be tasted. while those made with goat’s milk taste of almonds or even marzipan. 14 COLOR These cheeses can be made from cow’s. and even camel’s milk. white crust that can be stained with reddish pigments or yellow-gray blotches of mold. In contrast. artisan examples grow a thinner. CAPRICORN GOAT Deﬁning Features Factory-made varieties tend to have a thick. velvety rind that seems more like a wrapping than an UNDERSTANDING CHEESE integral part of the cheese. AGE It is considered FLAVOR Depending on TEXTURE Slightly ripe from 21 days. The mildest cheeses hint of sweet hay and button mushrooms. butter-yellow when made with Jersey or Guernsey cow’s milk. and a wonderful aroma of mushrooms. hence. mushrooms. The coat protects the cheese from drying out and speeds up the ripening process. softens and becomes roast lamb. MILK The milk used to make the cheese determines the color of the interior. . and have an earthy aroma reminiscent of cool cellars and mushrooms warmed in butter. FAT CONTENT They have a low fat content of 24– 26 percent. Soft white cheeses typically have a white crust. almonds. RIND Thin and crusty which keeps fat with a dusting of white content low. and lanolin creamy when mature. Those made with ewe’s milk have a subtle sweetness with just a hint of roast lamb or lanolin. goat’s. mold to thick and velvety. wild chalky when young. but 75 percent if made with extra cream. the strongest taste like creamy wild mushroom soup and ﬁnish with the peppery bite of dandelions. or molds. This means that the curds must be scooped gently into the molds. (See p42). high-sided hoops. cheesemakers encourage only the purest white. Chardonnay One of England’s ﬁrst with Brie de Meaux.How They’re Made Excellent Examples To achieve their almost-liquid texture. 4 5 The mold is naturally attracted to the After two weeks a velvety white coat has 15 moist. the cheese is turned out of the After receiving a sprinkling of salt. round. This is where the from the vat and put layer upon layer into the mushroomy aroma and taste originate. Colorful molds may appear. try them on a croissant layered with works with the milder. with a soft rind and a refreshing lemon ﬂavor. protein-rich surface. The surface of the cheese is then enveloped Brie de Melun Brie de Melun has a strong mushroom in a white. until full. Alternatively. only the weight of the curd is used to lightly press out the excess whey. but cut off the rind around the sides. sometimes other mold. millions of microscopic fungi of the The ﬂoppy. like most Bries. Brillat-Savarin How to Enjoy roasted peppers or sweet chutney.or brown-tinged rinds. velvety Penicillium ﬂavor. and gradually formed. Ripe examples have pink. soft white cheeses must retain a high percentage of whey. try a of goat’s-milk interior with chunks of bread or raw tawny port with a strong soft white. A cheeses. SOFT WHITE CHEESES 2 3 Once ﬁrm. jellylike curd is gently scooped penicillin family. hoppy pale ale (rather than a bitter beer) (See p175). goat’s- a stark white baking a small soft white cheese for about or ewe’s-milk variations work very well interior typical 15 minutes and scooping out the molten with similar wines. it has COOKED A popular recipe involves with Chaource. they are molds and a disc is placed on top of each one. and gently pressing out any remaining whey. because it Extra cream added to the milk triples its fat content to 75 percent and gives this cheese UNCOOKED These wonderful cheeses will become dry and a little bitter. is introduced. As a general rule. (See p42). Camembert de Normandie France’s other famous soft white comes packed in wooden boxes. but most spreads over the entire cheese. are at their very best when served at room temperature with crusty bread WITH DRINKS The French serve cider or Capricorn Goat and a glass of wine. Flower Marie This is a unique ewe’s-milk cheese from England. (See p44). vegetables. moved to a room where the white mold. and Champagne soft white goat cheeses. a wickedly rich feel. These cheeses also broil well. . sweeter cheeses. During this part of the process. but is less well candidum coat that is made up of 1 known than Brie de Meaux. calvados with Camembert. while others that are regularly treated with brine have wet. Those with a sticky orange rind are called washed-rind cheeses and are softer and have a pungent. leathery gray coat.and only lightly pressed. ﬂoral. and white molds. as they are TEXTURE Both dry. Washing COLOR The interior can vary greatly. stickier. . They tend to be grainy. Dry rind cheeses ripen slowly and range from springy. with a softening just under the rind when young. relatively bland- looking rind. LANGRES Deﬁning Features All semi-soft cheeses are washed in brine to discourage unwanted molds. Semi-Soft Cheeses THIN AND DRY TO ORANGE AND STICKY RIND ∙ MILD TO PUNGENT ∙ RUBBERY TO RUNNY Semi-soft cheeses vary in appearance and texture more than any other cheese type. they are mild and nutty. some are buttery a pinkish leathery rind. smoky. or one that is shiny.. LIQUID Some washed-rind cheeses are almost liquid when ripe. and become soft and supple with age. the FAT CONTENT softer. to a colorful coat of gray mold FLAVOR Depending on splashed with red. sweet. 16 sticky. washed-rind cheeses soften if at all. and even meaty taste and aroma. fat content of 24–30 percent. AGE It is considered ripe from three weeks to three months. RIND They vary from barely formed to a thick. with a hint of marzipan. to rubbery. Dry-rind types UNDERSTANDING CHEESE develop anything from a thin. pale orange to russet-red rinds. over the rind. and orange. When made with goat’s milk. and nutty with barely formed rinds. yellow. are smoky and meaty. The washed-rind type includes those known as Trappist or monastery-style. Washed-rind examples and mellow. and pungent with thick leathery rinds. but can be divided into two styles. The texture of semi-soft seals the rind and from a pale straw color to cheeses ranges from rubbery and also locks in moisture. mild. sticky. MOISTURE They retain a lot of moisture. savory. and They have a smellier the rind. creamy yellow in color. elastic to supple or even runny. The more they are washed. barnyardy. barely formed to thin pink. This washed-rind cheese is Along with the starter culture. It is named after the pear variety used to make the perry. but more acidic wines will make the this cheese COOKED The dry-rind cheeses are cheese taste sour. since their rubbery rind cheeses are superb with beers. each creating a different The ﬁne. sticky. it is bound with a thin strip of wood and hand-washed with a mix of brine and perry (or fermented pear juice).How They’re Made Excellent Examples Semi-soft cheeses are washed in Taleggio numerous ways. splashed or rubbed in brine mixed with perry. Stinking Bishop brine by hand are called smear-ripened. 4 5 Any white mold that grows is knocked out The ﬁnal cheese develops a thin. Splashing or spraying molds. Rennet is added to the milk to coagulate it. gray and white tinged leathery rind. 2 SEMI-SOFT CHEESES Perforated molds let the whey drain from the curd. a light red like Merlot. The pungent washed. or wiped with. sweet meadow-ﬂower a runny liquid. and the texture is so soft that it literally 17 weeks. although some semi-soft cheeses may 3 be lightly pressed. like the Stinking Bishop authenticity marks its rind. character that is usually hidden beneath (See p245). ciders. although a little goes a long way. example shown here. but they become stickier and brighter with more frequent 1 washing. highlight the fruity. barely formed rind dipped in a protective coat of red wax. Once removed from its mold. dry rind style of rind. or The thick rind of beer. and as texture stretches but holds its shape— and sweeter grape varieties such as a result. Those soaked in brine for a feels gritty and few hours or days and then left to dry out has patches of develop a pale. (See p63). Edam Edam is a washed-curd cheese (see p19) and has a sweet ﬂavor. the but for the same reason they do not work Riesling or Gewürztraminer. A stamp the cheese creates a thin. inside. . they become sweeter and more savory. sticky golden by the washing process and. UNCOOKED Mild semi-soft cheeses such them an amazing appetizer. however. the rind becomes very soft. When their barnyardy aroma and taste. melt superbly in sauces. (See p198). How to Enjoy they are baked whole. protects the moisture superb when broiled. Those dipped in. pale of quality and orange rind. Washed-rind cheeses. as Edam or Havarti are classic breakfast cheeses. after ﬁve to six rind. (See p230). this separates the curds from the whey. Langres Frequent washing and ripening in very humid cellars creates the bright color. a Chardonnay. while the stronger varieties are WITH DRINKS The milder cheeses need Vacherin Mont d’Or essential on any cheese board. and can also be ﬁnely dusted with mold. (See pp138–39). a rubbery texture. which makes and a very thin. oozes out when it is cut. The rind shrinks and wrinkles as it ages. These wines interior is well in sauces. barrel-shaped Pecorino to enormous wheels of Beaufort with its thin. or ewe’s milk. . a characteristic sweet caramelized onion ﬂavor. TEXTURE This 28–34 percent. BUBBLES The holes in Swiss-style cheeses are formed by gas bubbles created when the cheese is moved to a warm room for secondary ripening. giving the cheese a crunchy feel in the mouth. Traditional hard British cheeses are clothbound UNDERSTANDING CHEESE drums or tall cylinders. polished. tough rind. the waxed. RIND This varies enormously AGE FAT CONTENT from thin and They have a Considered leathery to very fat content of ripe from a MOISTURE The amount of whey hard and thick. but brighter yellow from fresh summer grazing. COLOR This varies with the seasons— 18 pale when animals are hay-fed in winter. becoming Italy make hundreds of different hard cheeses. creamy. such as Manchego and Pecorino. Hard goat’s-milk cheeses have a subtle almond taste. have a dense. few weeks expelled determines the texture. from smooth. longer the maturation and the or bound in cloth. with age they imprint of braided reeds or the wooden molds in dry out and the intensity which they were drained. Spanish cheeses usually bear the or buttery. Some types are category ranges from old to The more moisture removed. goat’s. Flavors grow complex as they mature. Producers in France and increases. textures that are three years. to ﬂexible. The Dutch and Swiss tend FLAVOR When young to make large boulders or wheels with polished or they are slightly sharp waxed rinds. and drums of hard cheese found in all traditional cheesemaking countries are typically made with cow’s. slightly grainy texture with an oily-yet-dry feel in the mouth. Their rinds range across the spectrum from smooth with polished rinds to rough and pockmarked like the Moon’s surface. Hard Cheeses ROUGH OR POLISHED RIND ∙ CRUMBLY TO BRITTLE ∙ COMPLEX FLAVORS The large wheels. fruity and tangy. to brittle. activating the starter culture. MANCHEGO Deﬁning Features Hard cheeses can vary greatly in appearance. more complex the ﬁnal ﬂavors. very old hard cheeses such as Parmigiano-Reggiano and Dry Jack become granular. cylinders. Classic ewe’s-milk hard cheeses. and an aroma reminiscent of roast lamb or wet wool. hard rind from soaking in brine for 21 days and tastes sweet. It has a thick. hot water is added to the vat of curd. very creamy.How They’re Made Excellent Examples Hard cheeses fall into one of two categories. creating with knife-sharp wires. cheese type. . WITH DRINKS Their high fat content and stronger. and dressings—for instance. (See p68). where the salt draws out more of the whey. (See p242–43). are placed in brine baths for up to 21 days. hard cheeses are ideal for both these styles are excellent when cheeseboards. while very hard cheeses such as Parmigiano-Reggiano simply UNCOOKED The most versatile of any dissolve. to 129°F (54°C). (See pressure is gradually increased to avoid cheeses are sealed with wax. Cheddar Cheddar curds are cooked at 104°F (40°C). or washing the curd is sliced using different-sized giant combs Emmentaler curds in hot water to scald them. pp180–181). Grana Padano Curds cut into rice-sized pieces give this cheese a brittle texture. Parmigiano-Reggiano in pesto. (See p119). Different cheeses. or sometimes rubbed with lard. dips. right) such as Gruyère Sauvignon or Barolo. 2 3 When making washed-curd cheeses such Some cheeses. then milled before being pressed to create a 4 5 smooth. with their natural acidity. while This cheese has a dry crust that is often heated. raw-onion Pressing is often carried out by hand. The To prevent moisture loss as they ripen. as Gouda. HARD CHEESES which gives the cheese a sweeter taste. and soups. such as Parmigiano-Reggiano. Other wooden board on methods include milling the curds between which it is drained cutting and pressing to expel extra whey makes the ridges on the 1 base. a process known as thermizing. grated into salads. They absorb the role in the culinary history of the country rough edges of young wines or soften where they are made. 19 How to Enjoy melt completely. like ripe pineapple. White wines bring Mimolette and Beaufort become stretchy when out the fruitier nature of the cheese. Pressed uncooked cheeses are lightly Manchego The interior has tiny pressed for a few hours and eaten from eyeholes and an oily one week old when still mild and springy. wrapped in cloth. sheen typical of Cooked and pressed cheeses are heated hard ewe’s-milk in the whey and then pressed. Thermized cheeses the tannin in wines such as Cabernet (see Emmentaler. making them perfect for broiling beer and cider. texture and a savory. Others make equally good companions. the cheese to achieve a thick rind. The temperatures give various results. more intense taste marries COOKED Hard cheeses play an integral best with red wines. They can also be shaved or added to sauces. creating or fondues rather than in sauces. fruity ﬂavors and an elastic texture. (See pp162–63). a rind like a rusty cannonball. attacked by harmless cheese mites. some tang. loosing too much whey too quickly. resulting in sweet. and create a ﬁner texture. adding ﬂavor but not texture. The milk is heated a supple texture. soaking in brine After the coagulation process. pasta. They create a seemingly endless array of wonderful cheeses. gooey texture and spicy tang. others are sweeter wide. Most European blues are wrapped in tin foil. crusty. buttery Stilton to sweet Gorgonzola with its luscious. and white molds. rough. dry. RIND This ranges from wet with gray. to dry. and more herbaceous. COLOR There are various strains of blue mold. and attract a rainbow of colorful molds that exude a powerful aroma. slightly UNDERSTANDING CHEESE metallic tang. high-moisture blues compact texture that develops thinner. Blue Cheeses STICKY TO CRUSTY RIND ∙ STREAKED WITH BLUE MOLD ∙ SPICY TANG Blue molds are members of the penicillin family but. . steely blue ﬁnish. and crusty. STILTON orange-brown rinds. often taste saltier than other cheeses. high acid. unlike white molds. blue. which encourages the at 1–6 months. burnt-caramel taste of the milk that offsets the sharp. mold to develop. TEXTURE Blues vary greatly in MOISTURE Most blues AGE Usually texture. each of which gives the cheese its own 20 distinct appearance. salty. ensuring that their rinds remain damp and sticky and develop a multitude of molds layered on them. while whereas dry-rind blues have a dense. The FLAVOR Some are creamy moist interiors of wet-rind blues develop and mellow. from dense. which have white rinds and FAT CONTENT patches of blue. They typically have a fat STREAKS Erratic lines and intense pockets content of of mold typify these cheeses. while traditional British blues have rough. 28–34 percent. uneven streaks and pockets of blue. porcelain when cut. often splashed with blue and gray molds. they prefer to grow inside a cheese. but blues all have a spicy. There are also soft white blues. are often gritty and have a longer streaks and looks like shattered salty ﬁnish. they can range from dense have a moist interior. Ewe’s-milk blue cheeses such as Roquefort retain the sweet. Deﬁning Features There is extraordinary variety in taste and texture. considered ripe and compact to creamy and sticky. which were havens for blue molds in particular. They made their way into the warm interior through cracks in the rind and grew in the gaps in the fresh curd. the richer vintage or less complex ruby and peppery arugula dressed with honey ports. penicillin mold to enter and the mold to turn blue. ﬁnely dusted with mold. (See p236). (See pp192–193). classics like celery and Stilton soup. 2 Blue cheeses are never pressed. any cheese platter and. Its thin wet. Roquefort 3 The famous ewe’s-milk blue has a loose. leaving space for the blue mold to grow and spread. traditional European blues. steely blues. especially when bottled-vintage (LBV) port rather than crumbled over cannellini beans. blue-green streaks and scattered After a few weeks the young cheese is pierced To check the texture and the even spread of patches ﬁll the interior. and a drizzle of honey your taste. a grader will remove a plug of rind. or barns. typiﬁes 21 to air. then 1 the young cheese is pierced to allow air Along with the starter culture. the blue mold is added to the milk in powder form. cheese with a cheese “iron” and then replace it. Today.How They’re Made Excellent Examples Cheeses were once ripened in caves. Walnut bread is especially good majority of blue cheeses. Exposed the blue mold. Match the dessert This is a soft white–style blue. sticky with rods to create tunnels in the curd. with injecting blue mold directly into this soups. If port is not to with blue cheeses. Stilton This cheese has the dry rind typical of many British blue cheeses. such as Roquefort. or grilled UNCOOKED Blue cheeses are essential on steak with blue cheese sauce. Pockets wine Sauternes only with the very sharp. Gorgonzola 4 5 Thick. the blue mold ﬂourishes in these gaps. as they tend to overpower the vinaigrette. (rather than streaks) of blue result from COOKED Stir small amounts into pasta. and sauces to elevate dishes into its sweet undertones. (See pp110–11). as white–style blue cheeses are injected with shown here. buttery interior forces the blue mold to develop as thin broken streaks. with the exception of the Brie-style blues. The dense. the sides of some moist interior. dense cheese. The curd must remain loosely packed. stone cellars. to the freshly formed curd. BLUE CHEESES After two or three weeks. make a perfect partner. . molds because they are too soft and dense for the mold to spread naturally. also add another WITH DRINKS Try a tawny or late- dimension to salads. pasta How to Enjoy with pinenuts and Gorgonzola. Soft is added to the warm milk or sometimes. salty. (See pp82–83). allowing Penicillium types of blue cheese are scraped smooth to cover roqueforti to grow en masse as thin streaks and large scattered pockets. any cracks before being rubbed with salt. walnuts. a sweet or dry Riesling can Bavaria Blu brings out the subtlety of the cheese. creamy. Spanish cheese has a semi-soft texture and is made by adding local 22 crushed walnuts and hazelnuts. or herbs. its elegant rind of toasted hops. Flavor-Added Cheeses COLORFUL AND EXOTIC RINDS ∙ HARD OR SEMI-SOFT ∙ SAVORY OR SWEET With their bright colors. pressed into the rind. (See p164). and shaped into a round. emphasizing the nettles. spices. encrusted with toasted hops A ﬁne gray-white mold Deﬁning Features grows across the cheese. or grape must. Flavor-added cheeses can be divided into four distinct types. . Natural smoked cheeses have a golden brown to caramel-colored rind but the internal color is not affected. Here. Traditional-style Yarg Cornish UNDERSTANDING CHEESE examples (based on the original Dutch method Cheese where the ingredients are matured with the fresh Probably the best-known curds) absorb and intensify the aroma and essence British example of a of the added ingredients. interwoven forest-green The majority. Smoked cheeses have existed since humans learned to make hard cheeses and stored them near their wood ﬁres. then reshaped. Dutch cheesemakers incorporated the exotic spices brought back from the East Indies into Edam and Gouda. are re-formed cheeses. Wensleydale with Cranberries One of only a The most successful re-formed ﬂavor-added few cheeses with cheeses blend young. (See pp200–201). producing a tantalizing mélange of ﬂavors. After pressing. (See Wensleydale. the re-formed cheese is softer than the original. Rind-ﬂavored cheeses rind-ﬂavored cheese. In the 16th century. the vast array of ﬂavor-added cheeses stands out on deli counters across the world. sweet dried fruit. however. p204). the young hard Taramundi cheese Wensleydale has been crumbled up This traditional-style with cranberries. nettles imparts a subtle where a young cheese is broken up. Today. such as vine leaves. have various ingredients. low-acid cheeses with nuts added. added ingredients. blended with ﬂavor. most ﬂavor-added cheeses are well-known hard cheeses HEREFORD HOP Its rind is blended with fruit. garlic. . Fresh herbs can deteriorate within a cheese’s damp interior. (See p231). would absorb the smoke from the wood ﬁres. ﬁgs. chives or that are smoked WITH DRINKS Beers nicely complement covered with the ﬂavor ingredient after work in salads. Additional ideas natural ﬁres. and chili cheeses are made by breaking up the pudding. ingredients to the curd of semi-soft and place of dessert. and apricots. but walnuts are sometimes added to fresh cheeses because Wonderful smoky they have a high acidity bacon taste. paprika. and provides an attractive contrast to the dark cloves. Traditional ﬂavor-added of the cheesemaker. with different ﬂavors. the cheese has been pressed. caraway seeds. then reshaping unconventional ﬂavors. black A great example of a natural or red peppercorns. Nuts Nuts are not commonly used. the Netherlands is based on a Gouda recipe and uses cloves. nut-brown rind. studded in its interior. The tannin and red berry ﬂavor of red and pressing it. blending it left to those who enjoy experimenting with are better with cider or Chardonnay. Weird combinations savory-ﬂavored cheeses with onion. Spices Idiazabal Cumin. so they Nagelkaas means “nail cheese. nettles. Garlic and ﬂavor-added cheese from F L AV O R . herbs. or fruitcake are curiosities best peppers. The orange color comes from adding annatto (a natural dye derived from the seeds of Bixa orellana). apple ﬂakes.How to Enjoy unﬂavored counterparts when cooked and can add character to basics like baked How They’re Made UNCOOKED The choice of ﬂavors to add potatoes or pasta—smoked cheeses work Smoked cheeses are matured over to cheese is limited only by the imagination especially well for this. wines tends to clash with all but the COOKED Traditionally made semi-soft hard cheeses like cheddar with garlic Herbs & Garlic or hard ﬂavored cheeses behave like their or Gouda with peppercorns.A D D E D C H E E S E S chives are also popular. where the young cheeses hard cheeses. sticky toffee chives. Idiazabal was and cloves are widely used as 23 traditionally stored in the rafters they make natural partners of shepherds’ huts in northern with the savory tang of Spain. Rind-ﬂavored cheeses are garlic. Flavor-added cheeses can be found under the entries for cheeses are made by adding the ﬂavor with dried fruit are typical served in individual cheeses. The most popular are candied citrus. Today. while only those with hard cheeses. basil. and This traditional-style lavender. while the sweet dessert cheeses curd of a young hard cheese. dried berries. Re-formed such as those with chocolate. they are cold-smoked in special rooms over a few days. (See p157). Examples include sage.” are mostly This refers to the shape of the cloves used dried. Nagelkaas rosemary. oak smoke. smoked cheese. and and ripen quickly. Dried Fruit Adding fruit is a modern trend. Shop somewhere that encourages QUINCE you to taste before purchasing. dried fruit. Remove cheeses from the refrigerator at least an hour before serving so that they warm up to room temperature. but is often very heavy. make sure you enjoy it after the main meal but before dessert. Decorate the board with some wild ﬂowers. The Perfect Cheese Board ACCOMPANIMENTS Grilled vegetables. THE BASICS FLAVOR-ADDED Buy the cheeses as close to the time Yarg Cornish Cheese you want to eat them as possible—they pp200–201 will not improve in a refrigerator. There are no hard and fast rules to determining a cheese category and toasted walnuts work well with or type. meal. prepare individual plates with small chunks and wedges of cheese. herbs. UNDERSTANDING CHEESE THE BOARD An elegant wooden board. but some guidance can enable you to create an amazing and almost all cheeses. Crusty or fruity bread. or wicker basket lined with linen cloth gives the cheese a fresh and natural appearance. Support your local cheesemakers. If you’re having your cheese board with a Celery and grapes can be enjoyed with blues and strong hard cheeses. chunk of driftwood. rather than crackers. apples. lets you experience the texture and feel of the cheeses in your mouth. memorable cheese board. Slate looks great. Alternatively. 24 AGED FRESH Sainte-Maure de Touraine pp92–93 DRIED FIGS . or PDO label on European cheeses. SEMI-SOFT Search for medal winners and Taleggio pp138–139 the AOC. DOC. marble or granite is marvelous. or seasonal leaves. the heavier. provide at least one marriages. with riveting descriptions of Color and shape should come from an distinguished or disreputable interesting combination of cheeses. Hard cheeses pair well with red wines. You could remove the rind Fresh. rather than or wrong. make the senses buzz while others per person. Use the classiﬁcations on The union of cheese and wine has danger of drying out quickly. aromatic white or Normandie p44 eau de vie to pair with their sweetness. BLUE Valdeón p166 SPRIG OF ROSEMARY FRESH 25 Innes Button p184 . THE PERFECT CHEESE BOARD Flavor-added cheeses work with different types of wines. goat’s. pages 10–23 to give you an idea of the range moved writers to ﬁll endless columns of textures available. richer. especially washed- Camembert de rind.or sheep’s-milk cheese. Semi-soft cheeses. SOFT WHITE smaller wedges.THE CHEESES THE WINE One superb large cheese is better than Offer diversity by choosing cheeses with three or four small wedges. crisp fruity wines Berkswell p173 from cutting across the wedge instead of into and ciders that won’t dominate. it really depends on what ﬂavor has been added. Precut a couple of wedges to show guests deﬁnitely do not. not from For variety of ﬂavor. how it’s done. aged fresh. need a feisty. but there really is no right the garnishes. which can be in different textures. and soft white HARD from blue or hard cheeses to keep anyone cheeses prefer dry. The sweetness cuts through the sharpness of the cheese. and redder the wine. The harder and darker the cheese. Some combinations simply Allow around 2oz (55g) of each cheese relying only on cow’s milk cheeses. Blue cheeses work superbly with sweet dessert wines or aromatic whites. or PDO cheeses Produced only here Produced throughout the region HAUTE- NORMANDIE Pont-l’Evêque ★ Cœur de Neufchâtel ★ BASSE-NORMANDIE Brillat-Savarin. Lucullus. Brossauthym BAY OF BISCAY N 100 miles 100 km . DOC. Camembert au Calvados Camembert de Normandie ★ Deauville. DOP. PGI. Port Salud Brebis du Lochois. Curé Nantais . Embruns aux Algues. NORTHERN FRANCE FRANCE ENGLISH CHANNEL Key ★ AOC. Pavé d’Auge NORTH OF FRANCE BRETAGNE PAYS DE LA LOIRE Buchette Pont d’Yeu. Livarot ★. Abbaye de la Pierre-qui-Vire Abbaye de Cîteaux Olivet. During NORD-PAS-DE-CALAIS the German occupation. Valencay ★ Mâconnais ★. Brie de Meaux ★. humanity” status. almost 360 varieties of cheese cannot die. Pierre-Robert CHAMPAGNE-ARDENNE LORRAINE ÎLE-DE-FRANCE Carré de l’Est. Maroilles ★. FRANCHE-COMTÉ Pavé Blésois. Ch’ti Roux. Bleu de Gex Haut-Jura ★. Morbier ★ Sancerrois Dôme de Vézelay. Feuille de Dreux. Pithiviers. Sainte-Maure de Touraine ★. which until recently was not matched elsewhere. a huge variety of cheeses represent the creativity of Boulette de Papleux. Racotin . importance of cheese in France. BOURGOGNE Ami du Chambertin. France. saying. Today. Munster ★. French cuisine and gastronomy the UNESCO “heritage of Fort de Béthune. Lucullus Tomme de Bargkas Chaource ★ Saint-Florentin Langres ★ CENTRE Soumaintrain Cœur de Touraine. Fougerus. Soumaintrain Comté ★. Mont d’Or ★. Gratte-Paille. Vieux-Boulogne. and participates in the evolution of science. Bouton-de-Culotte. ALSACE Brie de Nangis. Carré de l’Est. FRANCE Sablé de Wissant Crémet du Cap Blanc-Nez Abbaye du Mont des Cats The history of cheese is entwined with the history of France. Epoisses de Bourgogne ★ Munster ★ Brie de Melun ★. argued in support of the cultural value of cheese in June Mimolette. Morvan. Dauphin. Pavé du Nord. Rollot Coulommiers. Winston Churchill emphasized the Abbaye de Troisvaux. “A country producing Bergues. blends with the role of religion.” Boulette de Cambrai. Vieux-Lille PICARDIE Baguette Laonnaise. Brillat-Savarin. Boulette d’Avesnes Crayeux de Roncq It crosses the path of historical ﬁgures. Epoisses de Bourgogne ★. Palet de Bourgogne Crottin de Chavignol ★. Pouligny-Saint-Pierre ★. Following President Nicolas Sarkozy’s proposal to award Forme d’Antoine. Charolais ★. Selles-sur-Cher★. 2008 in the French Senate. Androuët. the world-famous cheese house. Taupinette Charentaise. Saint-Nicolas- Figuette. Gour Noir. MIDI-PYRÉNÉES Lingot de la Ginestarie. LANGUEDOC- Roquefort ★. Crémeux du Puy. Pechegos Crabotin. Pérail Bouyguette des Collines. Trois Cornes de Vendée LIMOUSIN Fourme d’Ambert★. Clochette Pavin. Bleu de Causses ★. Pavé de la Ginestarie. Rocamadour ★. Mothais-sur-Feuille. Bleu de Chèvre. Gaperon. Ossau-Iraty ★ Lou Rocaillou. Saint-Nectaire ★ BAY OF BISCAY Lavort Ventadour Cendré de Niort Trappe d’Echourgnac Fouchtra Laguiole ★ SOUTH OF FRANCE Saint-Christophe AQUITAINE Ardi-Gasna. Sainte-Maure de Touraine ★. Tomme Caprine des Pyrénées Pélardon ★ Bethmale Cabri Ariégeois ANDORRA . Bleu de Chèvre. Nîmois. Cantal ★. de-la-Dalmerie Abbaye Notre-Dame de Belloc Petit Fiancé des Pyrénées. Bonde de Gâtine Tomme de Chèvre des Charentes Capri Lezeen AUVERGNE POITOU-CHARENTES Bleu d’Auvergne ★. ROUSSILLON Rouelle du Tarn. Chabichou du Poitou ★. Lou Sotch. Brique du Forez. DOC. Chevrotin des Bauges ★. Tomme des Bauges ★. Tomme de Savoie. Fourme de Montbrison ★. Rove Cendré. Tommette Brebis de Alpes. Tomme de Chartreux Banon ★. Venaco N MEDITERRANEAN SEA 100 miles 100 km . Tomme de Brebis Corse. Brocciu ★. MEDITERRANEAN SEA Roves des Garrigues. Fium’Orbu. Picodon ★. GOLFE DU LION Pot Corse. FRANCE SOUTH OF FRANCE RHÔNE-ALPES Abondance ★. Emmental de Savoie ★ AOC. PGI. Banon à la Sarriette. Key Beaufort ★. Saint-Félicien Persillé de Tignes. Saint-Marcellin. Sarments d’Amour. Bleu de Termignon. U Pecurinu. Rigotte de Condrieu ★. MONACO CORSE Tomme à l’Ancienne. Raclette de Savoie. Abbaye de Tamié. Reblochon de Savoie ★. Tarentais. Truffe de Valensole A Filetta. A Casinca. Produced only here Bleu du Vercors-Sassenage ★. Tommette de Chèvre des Bauges CORSE LIGURIAN SEA PROVENCE-ALPES-CÔTE D’AZUR TYRRHENIAN SEA Mascare Mont Ventoux. Bastelicaccia. Produced throughout the region Chevrotin des Aravis. DOP. Banon aux Baies Roses. Arômes au Gêne de Marc. Fleur du Maquis ★. Saint-Domnin. or PDO cheeses Bleu de Chèvre. Signal Comté ★. U Bel Fiuritu Tétoun de Santa Agata. Persillé des Aravis. 10in (25cm). the paste is ﬁrm yet supple and softer relatively mild compared with other than most other ewe’s-milk Basque washed-rind. yellow rind is worth seeking out. Mont des Cats is a ewes. 11⁄2in (H.5cm) 30 Milk Cow Size D. TASTING NOTES The thin. try sweet Beaujolais or a Bourgogne. with a TASTING NOTES This sweet. The cheese melts in the mouth pronounced caramel-like. 10in (25cm). milky Beneath its crusty. 4cm) Weight and Shape 4lb 6oz (2kg). FRANCE and creamy cheese with a grayish. of it are made each year from the milk of 70 Montbéliarde cows. with a surprisingly mild scent. HOW TO ENJOY It is delicious washed cheeses. 3. Bourgogne FRANCE Godewaersvelde. made from only in 1925 that the resident Trappist abbey of Saint-Marie-du-Mont in the milk of a local red-nosed breed of monks began to make this delicious northern France. smooth. H. round Age 2 months Weight and Shape 12lb (5. round Size D.5cm) Milk Ewe Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Abbey of St-Nicolas-lès-Cîteaux Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Abbaye de Belloc Producer Abbaye du Mont des Cats . such as a Loire red or a dry HOW TO ENJOY Avoid strong red wines fruity and light red wines. Trappist-style cheeses. such as Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh. fruity ﬂavor. orange TASTING NOTES Its long aging period rind covers a pale yellow. It is ﬂavor and the rustic aroma of hay. supple. whites. round Size D. washed cheese made from the Trappist cheeses produced by monks at outside the region because only 60 tons milk of cows from neighboring farms. Aquitaine Age 2 months Pas-de-Calais Age Best around 6 months Weight and Shape 1lb 10oz (750g). leathery. but it was Produced since 1890 by monks at the This rich fermier cheese. grayish-brown rind.5kg). such as a white Cadet. interior. 31⁄2in (8. It is rarely found semi-soft. FRANCE Dijon. down with beer or a light. elastic gives it a very rich taste. with a subtle. is one of the last few “Abbaye” or and exclusive cheese. 11⁄2in (H. an abbey in the traditional way. Nord FRANCE Urt. yet pronounced. fruity HOW TO ENJOY It is delicious served with wine.FRANCE Abbaye de Cîteaux Abbaye du Mont Abbaye Notre-Dame The abbey of Saint-Nicolas-lès-Cîteaux des Cats de Belloc was founded 900 years ago. that might mask the ﬂavor. 7in (18cm). served with a light and HOW TO ENJOY Pair this smooth and with any lively. the cattle are not fed silage or TASTING NOTES This semi-soft.Abbaye de la Abbaye de Tamié Abondance AOC Pierre-qui-Vire At the Abbaye de Tamié. springy texture. supple. washed cheese. preferably a dry one. Tarines. that can be light or full-ﬂavored. TASTING NOTES This strong-smelling has a distinct country taste and and a mild. milky taste. white. full-bodied red fruity red. thin FRANCE a soft. HOW TO ENJOY This elegant. or rosé Savoie wine. It is similar wrapped in blue paper decorated with Montbéliardes. which are also become known for its delicious. such as Beaune. To sustain the quality and ﬂavor of the of the monks’ herd of 40 cows. 2in (4. H. round Weight and Shape 11–33lb (5kg–15kg). Serve cheese board. sweet. the incumbent monks hard cheese is produced by various region was founded in 1850 by a priest produce a cheese that is similar to the cheesemakers using milk from three named Dom Muard. The ﬁnished product is sold renowned for their excellent milk: semi-soft. this This Benedictine abbey in the Yonne mountains. TASTING NOTES The brick-red rind covers cheese has an orange-colored. and supple cheese that leathery crust. and Abondance. or a Beaujolais. supple cheese with a local white wine. in the Savoie AOC-protected since 1990. smooth. 1in (2. HOW TO ENJOY As part of a cheese board. subtly depending on the season and producer. cheese has an immediate subtle taste a strong aroma. to Époisses. H. milk. it has well-known Reblochon but not as breeds of native cows.5cm) Size D. Bourgogne FRANCE Savoie. Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Rhône-Alpes Age 6–10 weeks Age 1–2 months Age Best around 2–3 months Weight and Shape 7oz (200g). FRANCE Saint-Léger-Vauban. 3–4in 31 (7. 7in (18cm). Burgundy. strong. H.5–10cm) Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Cow Producer Abbaye de la Pierre-qui-Vire Producer Abbaye de Tamié Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various .5cm) wheel Milk Cow Milk Cow Size D. round Weight and Shape 1lb 10oz (750g). washed any other fermented fodder. ﬂavored cheese stands proudly on a or mixed into mashed potatoes. and is made from the milk the white cross of Malta. 4in (10cm). such as an Apremont or Mondeuse. 14–18in (40–46cm). Since 1920. Size D. The paste has a mouth-watering. creating a unique The grazing is quasi-wilderness. which is made from grapes jam. HOW TO ENJOY Ami du Chambertin is HOW TO ENJOYFor an exotic taste. to offset its trademark sharpness. round Weight and Shape 9oz (250g). TASTING NOTES The rind is washed with pronounced taste and a rather strong tinged with fern and the smell of a local Marc de Bourgogne brandy. washed-rind cheeses that they produce. The hand-molded added reminder of its provenance. ﬁletta means cheese in 1950 as an accompaniment to infusing their milk with various “fern” in the Corsican language. giving smell. much of the work is done by hand. FRANCE unreﬁned. Montrachet—delicious wines that have grown in sunny climates. H. natural aromas. a long ﬁnish and are very ﬂavorsome. artisanal cheese. which can be a bit strong for it an orange color and a powerful taste. As an the famous wine. round Size D. 1in (3cm) Size D. climate improve it. and with a Corsican red or white wine. nutty ﬂavor. such as HOW TO ENJOY Perfect served with ﬁg Gevrey Chambertin or a Chassagne Condrieux. serve best appreciated with a glass of A Casinca with a white wine. FRANCE Corse FRANCE Corse FRANCE Brochon.5cm) 32 Milk Goat Milk Ewe Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Various Producer Gaugry dairy . H. Corsican goats The name reﬂects the roots of this Raymond Gaugry created this artisan roam freely over vast landscapes. A Casinca is by no means cellar. this that is made close by. almost wild. 1in (3cm) Size D. decorated with a fern leaf on top. H. 6in (15cm). so this creamy texture. 31⁄2in (8. cheese has more personality and more natural ﬂavor than many others. Aging and the gentle some palates. Bourgogne Age 11⁄2–4 months Age About 6 weeks Age 2 months Weight and Shape 14oz (400g).5cm). round Weight and Shape 12oz (350g). Gevrey Chambertin. A Casinca A Filetta Ami du Chambertin Robust. 4in (10cm). TASTING NOTES Although it has a TASTING NOTES This truly original taste. 2in (4. Although the delight A Casinca is one of the best semi-soft cheese is most often produced cheese is made in a modern creamery. is deﬁnitely worth a try. a pleasant aroma. or walnuts. Beaumes de Venise. A ripe cheese is placed in a but can also be formed to resemble a high in the Pyrenees.5cm) (85–150g). H. 3⁄4–1in Milk Cow 33 (2–3cm) Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Cow Producer Various Producer Various Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Producer Various . HOW TO ENJOY You can eat this semi-soft HOW TO ENJOY This cheese is an ideal cheese alongside all very full-bodied HOW TO ENJOY A fruity red wine is the partner to a light Beaujolais-Villages or red wines of substance and character. seeds. TASTING NOTES It has a strong and TASTING NOTESIt has a moist. 13in (32. 2in (4. round Weight and Shape 3–51⁄2oz Weight and Shape 1lb (450g).5cm). H. red.5cm) Milk Ewe Size D. 21⁄2–3in (6–7cm). As the cheese ages. but the best cheeses are and stalks of pressed grapes—which that it is produced in the city of Laon. summer grazing. Pair a sweet dessert wine such as Muscat de and you could even wash it down with sharper ones with full-bodied reds. baguette. honey. but even the youngest cheeses yeasty. perfect match for a young cheese. its texture ﬂavor similar to that of Maroilles.Ardi-Gasna Arômes au Gêne Baguette Laonnaise Ardi-Gasna means “sheep’s cheese” in de Marc Made at a distinctive creamery or the Basque language. have a sophisticated. H. and the fact all year round. made using milk from lush spring or slowly permeates the cheese. TASTING NOTES It grows sharper with bittersweet ﬂavor that is distinctly washed rind and a highly pronounced FRANCE age. Baguette that this hard cheese comes from the using an ancient method of curing and Laonnaise is usually brick-shaped milk of ewes grazing on alpine pastures preserving. disk Size 6in (15cm). It can be eaten barrel of marc—the damp skins. so it’s no surprise This fermier cheese is produced industrially produced. nutty taste and evolves from creamy to hard. a glass of beer. Serve with jam. This feature. gives the cheese its name. brick Size D. 3in (7. best at 5 months Age 1 month Age 2–3 months Weight and Shape 10lb (5kg). FRANCE Aquitaine FRANCE Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Picardie Age 2–24 months. round (100–125g). molds TASTING NOTES The herb has a strong FRANCE develop softening the paste TASTING NOTES The mild. becoming slightly berries of the Peruvian pepper tree. H. 31⁄2in (8. the dried another layer of ﬂavor. white. the herb savory creates yet TASTING NOTES When young. FRANCE Haute-Provence FRANCE Haute-Provence FRANCE Rhône-Alpes Age 2 weeks–2 months Age 2–8 weeks Age 2–8 weeks Weight and Shape 31⁄2–41⁄2oz Weight and Shape 31⁄2–41⁄2oz Weight and Shape 3. such as a Gewürztraminer. this cheese is sold Provence has a history of making goat growing conditions for some of the most rustically wrapped in layers of cheese that can be traced back to wonderful aromatic ﬂowers and plants. sweet. Roman emperor Antoninus Pius. pink peppercorns. 1in (2. H. chestnut leaves and bound with rafﬁa. that The Banon has beneﬁted from AOC Banon was enjoyed by the 1st-century subtly ﬂavor the milk of the grazing status since 2003. served with a fresh rose to decorate. 1in (2.5oz.5cm) Milk Goat Milk Goat Milk Goat Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Classiﬁcation Fresh Producer Various Producer Various Producer Various . 31⁄2in (8cm). H. As the leaves dry.5cm).5cm) Size D. addition to the cheese board can be and rosé Provençal wines. is mild and lactic. nutty ﬂavor sharp ﬂavor. In this version of the region’s fresh variation is decorated with pink Banon. the ﬂavor peppercorns (baies roses). Serve HOW TO ENJOY This a beautiful-looking wine. 1in (2cm) 34 Size D. This goats. some even claim that such as lavender and thyme. 31⁄2in (8. with all fruity and lively red.5–4. Roman times. round (100–125g). Banon AOC Banon aux Baies Banon à la Sarriette A speciality of the mountains of Roses The Provençal climate provides perfect Lure in Provence.5cm). its pungency adds and the ﬂavor becomes more nutty with of this cheese is counterpointed by the a new dimension to this creamy. a distinct goaty tang. nutty with age. distinct anise character of the slightly nutty cheese. HOW TO ENJOY This cheese is a real HOW TO ENJOY Serve with an aromatic pleasure to share with friends. round Size D. and raw and pasta. FRANCE Nord-Pas-de-Calais FRANCE Midi-Pyrénées FRANCE Cantal.5kg). Auvergne Age 2 months Age 3–4 months Age 2–3 months Weight and shape 4lb 6oz (2kg). 8in (20cm). Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb (2. Corbières. and it is best enjoyed when all fruity and robust wines of Fitou. 4in (10cm) Milk Cow Size D.5cm) round Size D.5cm) Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Blue Milk Cow Producer Various Producer Various Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various . This gives differs depending on how it is produced. distinctive ﬂavor against its Industrial varieties are very mild. as it is said to using cow’s rather than ewe’s milk. TASTING NOTES This blue cheese has a TASTING NOTES During the curing stage.Bergues Bethmale Bleu d’Auvergne AOC This fermier cheese is named after Produced in the Pyrenees. milk cheeses and is named after the AOC-protected since 1975. HOW TO ENJOY This is a delicious addition HOW TO ENJOYIt can be grated. drum Size D. It has a royal to Roquefort. mushrooms alongside a robust red or washed down with a chilled beer. very sharp. 8in (20cm). Bleu d’Auvergne has been still produced at Bergues in Flandres. HOW TO ENJOY Pair this cheese with or served with chicory.5–7. broiled. engaging ﬂavor and is best this semi-soft cheese is repeatedly TASTING NOTESThe ﬂavor of Bethmale when made with milk from herds that washed with brine and beer. H. H. but this cheese is made border. supple and elastic texture. round Weight and Shape 11lb–15lb (5kg–7kg). Bethmale Named after the province in which it the town in which it originated. soups. H. too. 2–3in Milk Cow 35 (4. nuts. mountain pastures. throughout northern France. sweet white wine. or baked with vegetable dishes. 12–16in (30–40cm). It is a very popular cheese seal of approval. Roussillon. It is similar around 8 miles from the Belgian village where it is made. 2in (4. while fermier varieties have a more pronounced taste. and Madiran. to salad dressings or hot pasta dishes. and is is one of the region’s best-known cow’s originated. have grazed the lush summer and fall FRANCE it a sharp. have been favored by King Louis VI in the 12th century. traditional and is aged longer than most blues. so it is little known outside TASTING NOTES The ﬂavor differs the region. powdery mold before eating. Most French blues are Granted AOC status in 1977. 3–4in (7. Bleu des Causses AOC Bleu de Chèvre Bleu de Gex Haut- Like Roquefort. FRANCE Franche-Comté Age 3–6 months Midi-Pyrénées Age Around 2–3 months Weight and Shape 5lb 3oz–5lb 13oz Age 2 months Weight and Shape 11lb–13lb 3oz (2. mountains. wheel 36 Size D. red wine—a Beaujolais or Burgundy.5–10cm) Milk Goat Milk Cow Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Blue Classiﬁcation Blue Classiﬁcation Blue Producer Various Producer Various Producer Various . round (5–6kg). such as a glass of sweet Muscat de Beaume boiled potatoes and a fruity. 12in (30cm). FRANCE Midi-Pyrénées FRANCE Auvergne. and goes well with all lively. H. regional Cornas. TASTING NOTES Yeasts and molds depending on the season in which it from the mountain grasses and ﬂowers is produced. this cheese is ripened As a blue goat’s cheese. a handful of small farms. 71⁄2in (19cm). almost hard. H. but is milder ﬂavor. Ivory-yellow summer TASTING NOTES Bleu de Chèvre is dense make their way into the cheese. It milk. are made using ewe’s cheese is produced in small. and Jurançon. the mouth with a subtle but herbaceous appearance and a slightly bitter. This cheese is produced on only dairies using milk from cows grazing has been AOC-protected since 1979. with erratic patches of blue. savory tang from the goat’s milk. It melts in the soft interior a speckled blue tasting. Rhône-Alpes. white winter cheeses. H. giving FRANCE cheeses are milder than the stronger. Bleu de Chèvre Jura AOC in natural caves called ﬂeurines in the is a rare thing. this limestone plateaus of the Causses.6kg). 3–4in Size D.3kg–2.6kg). such unusually dense. Bleu made with cow’s milk and a few.5–10cm) (7. drum Weight and Shape 8lb (3. Wipe off the covering of white HOW TO ENJOY It is excellent in salads than cow’s and ewe’s milk blues. Lirac. well-balanced red wines HOW TO ENJOY Eat with fresh ﬁgs and HOW TO ENJOY Serve as the locals do with that have an aromatic note. 4in (10cm) Size D. de Venise. mainly in the the pastures of the Jura mountains. blue des Causses is made with cow’s milk as Roquefort. 7–8in (18–20cm). and on cheese boards. result of piercing. reﬁned ﬂavor. FRANCE Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Gâtire. wheel Size D.300ft up the where. the paste pale yellow.5cm). which is dusted with blue. TASTING NOTES The rind is thin. were ordered to pay their taxes in one 14oz cheese. 3in (7. drum Weight and Shape 11lb–13lb 4oz Weight and Shape 14oz (400g). it has a slightly bitter aftertaste.5cm) Milk Goat 37 Classiﬁcation Blue Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Producer Various Classiﬁcation Blue Producer Patrick Cantet Producer Various . tang and earthy. Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages. Bonde de Gâtine This blue cheese is produced to very Sassenage AOC Produced in the marshy Gâtine area precise speciﬁcations. almost yet soft. this cheese of Poitou. gives it a more supple texture. Poitou-Charentes Age 4–5 months Age 2–3 months Age 6–10 weeks Weight and Shape 151⁄2lb (7kg). such robust. 3in (7cm) Milk Cow Size D. drum Size D. wrinkled The spare. subjects requires two liters of milk to make just mountain pastures of the French Alps. irregular bluing is not the cheese. marked with irregular thick rich aftertaste. 6in (15cm) (5–6kg). entering through cracks in the rind. high-quality fermier goat cheese that milk of cows that graze 4. Unlike most traditional blues.8in (29cm). brown-gold rind is a dense. as a Tokay. rind. H. streaks and blue patches. leathery. but of wild molds it is lightly pressed and thinner. leaving behind it a crumbly interior with a strong. 2in (4. Bergeron or a mellow wine. acidic. yet and brown. cheese with a glass of Chignin HOW TO ENJOY Eat alongside a glass of which complements the creamy. lively Beaujolais-Villages or and fruity ﬂavors. dense melts in the mouth. Just four AOC-protected since 1998. spicy. 12in (15cm). HOW TO ENJOY Team it with a dry and HOW TO ENJOYTeam this tasty blue fruity wine. TASTING NOTES The paste has a TASTING NOTES Beneath the rough. 11. H. H. gray. It has a thin. pronounced acidity and saltiness that FRANCE crusty. Bonde de Gâtine is a producers make it in summer using the is named after the town of Sassenage. such as a Sancerre Blanc.Bleu de Termignon Bleu du Vercors. which and white molds. in the 14th century. Delicate for a blue. forming cooperatives. the shared the tasks of herding. since ancient times. the humans have worked alongside Mother Nature and adapted to distinct concave shape.500m) are called Chalet colorful and spectacular as a Monet d’Alpage. local church and landowners of cheesemaking. and complex. milking. and TASTING NOTES Young Beaufort is ﬁrm but not hard. and truly awesome about in strict control of each stage of production. sweet. as well Size D. and demonstrates how. and every the rhythm and demands of the seasons. only be made in an area covering nutty. These pastures—as 4. and can winter. The resulting milk is sweet. combined their milk. Beaufort encapsulates the AOC label since 1968. FRANCE to make one Beaufort cheese. HOW TO ENJOY This is not a 38 cheese to melt over bread or put in a sandwich (although both would be heaven). in a harsh and rugged terrain. It melts in the mouth and has a rich. and Maurienne. Tarentaise. and are some of the largest painting—are unplowed and artisan cheeses in the world. of the best Pinot Noir you can afford. aromatic notes and a long. Winter unfenced. In the 14th and 15th centuries.900ft (1. Fresh walnuts. which is never pasteurized. and certainly not to be bought in miserable thin slices! It should be eaten in generous The milk comes only from Tarentaise and mouthfuls accompanied by a bottle Abondance cows. cheeses produced woodland to create mountain from a single herd that grazes above pastures. The Chalet d’Alpage is aged longer and has more honeyed. but avoid H. aromatic. traditional. This includes the milk cheese. 41⁄2–6in (11–16cm) dry whites that take away its ﬂavor. and grasses that cows enjoy a more concentrated diet provide the native Abondance and of hay cut from the mountain pasture. as a section of the Val d’Arly. approximately 1.112 acres in the It takes the milk of about 35 cows Rhône-Alpes valleys of Beaufortain. Savoie-Beaufortain in the French Cheeses produced in the lush Alps instigated a widespread summer pastures are known as program to remove much of the Beaufort d’Alpage. herdsmen have. known as Beaufort d’Hiver. grown throughout FRANCE Rhône-Alpes Savoie. savory tang that hints of meadow ﬂowers. of different species of wild herbs. complex ﬂavor. aspect of its maturation. and maturing. and contain the thousands cheeses. 14–271⁄2in (35–75cm) as Chardonnay and Riesling. used. round excellent with Champagne. Beaufort AOC A CLOSER LOOK Beaufort has been protected by Of all the great cheeses of the world. as well Because of this. Age 5–18 months Weight and Shape 44lb–154lb 3oz Beaufort’s rich sweetness is also (20–70kg). whose diet is strictly controlled. . Milk Cow A few tiny holes are Classiﬁcation Hard formed during the Producer Various fermentation of the curd. are paler as they are made when the meadow ﬂowers. also make a great partner. resulting everything that is magical. Tarentaise cows with fresh grazing Beaufort is another cheese that is in summer and aromatic hay in protected by the AOC label. The curds are then cut and the temperature raised to both scald the milk and squeeze out moisture from the curd. russet crust that beechwood belt that encases protects the cheese from drying out. a belt made of beech.The rind is rubbed with brine enriched The inward-curving with scrapings from old cheeses and sides are a result of the whey. Interior . creating a grainy. because the rind dries faster than the interior. 39 During its maturation. COAGULATION This process takes only 20–30 minutes. each cheese as it matures. and pressed for 20 hours. FRANCE Exterior PRESSING The curd is encircled with a cercle. small horizontal cracks appear near the edge. The curd is piled into cloth and carefully removed from the cauldron. It is turned regularly during this time. 1. By curds of Maroilles and mashed with is a delicious combination of fromage winter. H. tarragon. 40 Size D. FRANCE Flandre-Hainaut. cone Weight and Shape 2oz (60g). 2in (5cm) base. It frais. and has a sharp.5cm).5in (3. very the powerful full-bodied vintages of full-bodied red wines. Boulette d’Avesnes Boulette de Cambrai Bouton-de-Culotte In the past. this cow’s-milk cheese during the fall for winter use. 3in (7. this fermier cheese was Made by hand in Cambrai. FRANCE semi-soft. wine. annatto. and sharp ﬂavor. such as Cahors. herby ﬂavor. parsley.5cm) Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Fresh Milk Goat Classiﬁcation Fresh Producer Various Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Producer Pont du Loup. HOW TO ENJOY Enjoy this cheese with all HOW TO ENJOY Pair with all strong. and pepper. dyed with peppery seasoning. 4in (10cm) Size D. tarragon. and and hard and this goat’s cheese can be is shaped by hand. chives. tiny drum Weight and Shape 7oz (200g). ivory-colored paste has is mildly aromatic and has a deliciously tongue-tingling ﬁnish. but it will become bitter if allowed to age for too long. where it has long is a small Mâconnais that is stored nowadays. Fauquet. while the TASTING NOTES This fresh rindless cheese feels dry in the mouth. near the Bouton-de-Culotte (“trouser button”) made exclusively from buttermilk. grated into the local fromage fort. it is made with the fresh been popular. Boulette de Cambrai is always consumed fresh. FRANCE Nord-Pas-de-Calais FRANCE Bourgogne Calais Age 1–5 days Age 2 months Age 3 months Weight and Shape 10oz (280g). cone Size D. 4in (10cm) Milk Cow H. gives it a hot peppery bite. and dusted with paprika. 3in (7. HOW TO ENJOY Spread on crusty bread Mâconnais and Côte Chalonnaise. Nord-Pas-de. Belgian border. H. TASTING NOTES It has a very distinct TASTING NOTES The paprika from the rind goaty taste that hints of ground nuts. Unlike Boulette d’Avesnes. the rind becomes dark brown parsley. herbaceous. such as Beaujolais. and Leduc Producer Various .5cm). 11⁄2in (4cm) top. cloves. a spicy. A shot of gin will also bring out its and pair with a light and fruity red unusual combination of ﬂavors. a thick. H. H.5cm). Cheeses that are dusted with This produces a very thick curd. Its thin rind means ash are called Cendré Lochois. 11⁄2in (3. eventually. FRANCE Tarn. becomes more pronounced. Centre FRANCE Ile-de-France Age 2–3 weeks Age 2 weeks Age Best around 2 months Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (150g). 1in (2. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. crusty white rind that the paste breaks down very with red. but is also good with a rosé. mature. very slow. wines from Touraine. when FRANCE has a slight taste of thyme and beech ashes give it a somewhat smoky it is sour yet sweet. HOW TO ENJOY It tastes delicious served with ﬁgs and jam. where the sheep graze on very good lactic fermentation rather than rennet. Initially the cheese is smooth. the coagulation of The soft. Midi-Pyrénées FRANCE Touraine. H. generous paste. or when fully rosemary. oval Weight and Shape 4oz (110g). TASTING NOTES Lochois has a tender and and molds. making it a very attractive addition to pastures. and brown pigments quickly and becomes soft and creamy. The TASTING NOTES It can be sold fresh. as well as a smooth TASTING NOTES Bouyguette des Collines buttery ﬂavor and herby aromas. since it relies mainly on decorated with a sprig of rosemary. Bordeaux. yellow. and a cheese board.5kg). pale ivory rind comes from central France (a region the curd in this cow’s milk cheese is of this hand-formed goat cheese is traditionally associated with goats). wheel Size L. and have developed a bouquet. and woody character. 91⁄2in (24cm). and HOW TO ENJOY It can be enjoyed with all HOW TO ENJOY It is best paired with a dry goes well when paired with white red wines of Burgundy. round Weight and Shape 3lb 5oz (1. when it has a very fruity ﬂavor after 20 days of maturing.5cm) Size D. Sancerre or Montlouis. Riesling. such as Côtes-Du-Rhône that are lively. full- or Chinon. such as Sancerre. wrinkled. 3in (7. its ﬂavor and a strong scent of fermentation.Bouyguette des Brebis du Lochois Brie de Melun AOC Collines This modern ewe’s-milk cheese. and white wine. 8in (20cm). bodied. Unlike other Bries.5cm) Milk Goat Milk Ewe Milk Cow 41 Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Classiﬁcation Soft white Producer Segalafrom Producer Brebis du Lochois Producer Various . while FRANCE Brie has a white mold rind and a soft. and soft. the interior is creamy and almost creamy paste. This triple-cream cheese. round Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz (500g). this Brie almost disappeared 18th-century gourmand and food Auvergne region takes its name from when superseded by Brie de Melun. to become luscious. It used to be made using remains true to the original. rather than more white coat. creamy. Brie de Nangis Brillat-Savarin Brique du Forez Originally made in Nangis. with some character. 5in (12cm). 11⁄2in (3. but best when made from milk from cows a fat content of 75 percent for every now it is made solely with cow’s milk. with a nutty ﬂavor and a long ﬂavor is very fruity. Roanne. and Beaujolais. this TASTING NOTES When young. it has no rind smells mushroomy and sharp. full-bodied Bourgogne. 1in (2. Size D. 5–51⁄2in (12–13cm). the paste will have softened ﬁnish in the mouth.5cm) brick 42 Milk Cow Milk Cow Size L. 11⁄2–2. FRANCE Ile-de-France FRANCE Basse-Normandie. It is characterized However. southeast Although named after a renowned This traditional cheese from the of Paris. 3. H. It is at its afﬁneur. a famous cheesemaker and blue-gray hue.5cm) Classiﬁcation Soft white Classiﬁcation Soft white Milk Cow Producer Rouzaire Producer Lincet Classiﬁcation Soft white Producer Various . H. 9in (23cm). or Côtes-du-Rhône. Brillat-Savarin was in fact its bricklike shape. fruity wines. writer. TASTING NOTES The white mantle TASTING NOTES Like Brie de Melun.5oz. in particular Champagnes red wines of Auvergne. and a texture like thick crème fraîche. H. Bordeaux. its if eaten once it has developed its thin runny. it has since been revived by a created in the 1930s by Henri by a thin white rind that develops a single producer in Tournan-en-Brie and Androuët. Bourgogne FRANCE Auvergne (Livradois) Age 4–5 weeks Age 2–4 weeks Age 2–3 months Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg). with a mixture of cow’s and goat’s milk. Unlike Brie de Melun. W. is not for the dieter. savory or meaty. and of lively. round Weight and Shape 12–14oz (350–400g).5in (31⁄2–51⁄2cm). rosé. 2in (5cm) Size D. grazed on spring and summer grass. HOW TO ENJOY Team this creamy cheese HOW TO ENJOY Pair this Brie with a glass HOW TO ENJOY It goes well with all light with light and fruity white. sugar. omelets.5cm) Size L. rather than discarded. FRANCE Corse FRANCE Touraine. or a fruity white wine. It has during the process. because it is This log-shaped goat cheese takes made by unusual production processes: thought to be the only ewe’s cheese its name from the island of Yeu in whey is added. however. HOW TO ENJOY Serve on a cheese board many recipes. 41⁄2in (11cm). and it makes a decorative wood ash. giving it a unique with thyme. Flavored the Vendée region of France. it has a natural rind and a natural rind that is sprinkled with taste in addition to some precious oval shape. TASTING NOTES The ﬂavor of the thick TASTING NOTESThis fresh cheese is tasty paste varies depending on the level TASTING NOTES Fresh Brocciu is mild. 4in (10cm). it develops Pasu) is strong and a little spicy. and and cheesecakes. is young (at about three weeks). including salads. nutrients. HOW TO ENJOY Serve with aromatic red a peppery taste. such as Lillet.Brocciu AOC Brossauthym Buchette Pont d’Yeu This famous Corsican fresh cheese is This is a unique cheese. It is delicious served jam. and has a mellow. honey. When it tasting and creamy. of maturation of the cheese. berries. Froideveaux Producer Various Producer Various . Centre FRANCE Pays de la Loire Age 2–3 days Age 1 month Age 3–8 weeks Weight and Shape 11⁄2–3lbs Weight and Shape 8oz (225g). oval Weight and Shape 7oz (200g). and a light wine. 2in (5cm) Size Various Milk Ewe Milk Goat 43 Milk Ewe Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Classiﬁcation Fresh Producer M. such as a well-structured Ajaccio HOW TO ENJOY Brocciu can be used in or a full-bodied Patrimonio. basket Size L. 2in (4. H. rosemary. produced in the Loire region. and thyme-ﬂavored. ripened melt-in-the-mouth ﬁnish. rush baskets (canestres). but as it ages. H. alongside crusty bread.3kg). log (675g–1. wines. The Buchette is best enjoyed with with just salt. It is then drained in small addition to any cheese board. it is FRANCE Brocciu (also referred to as Brocciu nutty. Cabri Ariégeois Camembert Camembert de The passionate farmers in Ariège au Calvados Normandie AOC have created this modern French Some believe an iconic cheese like This, one of the most famous French cheese, which has become one of the Camembert should be left alone. But cheeses, is said to have been created in best goat cheeses on the market. Androuet, the retailer named after 1791 by Marie Harel, a farmer’s wife Based on the famous Mont d’Or cheese, France’s legendary cheesemaker Pierre in Camembert. The most important Cabri Ariégeois is bound in a strip of Androuët, and Isigny, one of the biggest invention, though, was its wooden box, spruce bark. producers in France, soak this cheese which enabled it to be shipped around in Calvados and cover it in breadcrumbs. the world. The AOC granted in 1983 TASTING NOTES Very smooth and creamy, states it must be made with raw milk. this washed cheese has a pronounced, TASTING NOTES With the rind scraped off, FRANCE sharp ﬂavor and a hint of pine that the breadcrumbs absorb the aroma of TASTING NOTES Its ﬂavor is fruity, with comes from the bark. alcohol and apples from the apple brandy a slight aroma of mushrooms and mold. or Calvados. The creamy interior has a Locals prefer Camembert when the HOW TO ENJOY This cheese is best gamey taste with hints of mushrooms. heart is white and not yet creamy. appreciated alongside a full-bodied and structured red wine with a HOW TO ENJOY Enjoy this cheese with HOW TO ENJOY Serve with fruity, elegant strong berry ﬂavor, such as a Côtes Calvados de Normandy or cider with red wines of Burgundy and Côtes-du- du Roussillon. perhaps walnuts rather than bread. Rhône, or a traditional Normandy cider. FRANCE Ariège, Midi-Pyrénées FRANCE Normandie FRANCE Basse-Normandie Age From 4–6 weeks Age 6–8 weeks Age Best around 1 month Weight and Shape 11lb 2oz (500g), round Weight and Shape 9oz (250 g), round Weight and Shape 9oz (250g), round Size D. 10in (25cm), H. 21⁄2in (6cm) Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 1in (2.5 cm) Size D. 41⁄2in (11cm), H. 11⁄2in (3.5cm) 44 Milk Goat Milk Cow Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Soft white Classiﬁcation Soft white Producer Fromagerie Fermier Cabrioulet Producer Various Producer Various Cantal AOC Capri Lezeen Carré de l’Est AOC-protected since 1956, Cantal is These farmhouse goat’s cheeses are As its name suggests (it means the forefather of all cheeses from the produced by the GAEC du Capri “square of the east”), this cooperative Auvergne region. It is made using the Lezéen in the marshy part of Poitou. or industrial washed-rind cheese is cheddaring process typical of many They have quite a sticky yellow rind, square in shape and is most famous in English traditional hard cheeses, and is with traces of light blue mold, and are the eastern regions of France (Lorraine, unique in being the only French cheese sold wrapped in a signature chestnut the Ardennes, and Champagne). produced this way. leaf and packed in a wooden box. TASTING NOTES Soft and grainy when TASTING NOTESThe ﬂavor differs TASTING NOTES The creamy, runny paste young, this cheese becomes almost depending on the age of the cheese: and soft rind have a slightly nutty liquid when mature. It has a salty FRANCE a well-ripened Cantal is strong in taste, taste and only a subtle goaty ﬂavor. ﬂavor and a sticky orange rind that while a young cheese has a mild, nutty gives it a smokey bacon tang. It is and milky ﬂavor. HOW TO ENJOY Pair Capri Lezeen with milder when covered with white mold. a dry white wine, such as a Sancerre or HOW TO ENJOY Pair Cantal with Viognier. It tastes delicious served HOW TO ENJOYSpread this semi-soft a light, fruity wine, such as a Côtes alongside fresh ﬁgs or berries. cheese on bread for a delicious snack d’Auvergne, Côtes Roannaises, or and team with light fruity wines, such Beaujolais. as Châteauneuf-du-Pape or Gigondas. FRANCE Auvergne FRANCE Lezay, Poitou-Charentes FRANCE Champagne, Ardennes, and Lorraine Age Best around 3–6 months Age 2–3 weeks Age About 3 weeks Weight and Shape 77–99lb, cylinder Weight and Shape 6oz (175g), round Weight and Shape 41⁄2–9oz (125–250g), Size D. 14–18in (35–46cm), H. 14–16in Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 1⁄2in (1.5cm) square (35–39cm) Milk Goat Size L. 4in (10cm), H. 11⁄2in (3.5cm) 45 Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Hard Producer GAEC du Capri Lezéen Patrick Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various Cantet Producer Various Brie de Meaux AOC A CLOSER LOOK From Paris to Peru, Brie de Meaux is Made just 30 miles (50km) east of Paris in the region of enjoyed the world over. Surprisingly, Île-de-France, Brie de Meaux can trace its history back to there are only a handful of producers, and most cheeses are then matured Emperor Charlemagne, who, in 774 CE, extolled the virtues of and aged by special afﬁneurs, each Brie in his Chronicles. creating their own unique style. they each have their own distinct character inﬂuenced by size, microﬂora, unique climate, and grazing. TASTING NOTES Brie de Meaux is probably the strongest of all the soft white cheeses. The aroma should be of mold, damp leaves, and mushrooms, becoming more intense with age. At its peak, it has a glossy pale straw- to butter-yellow colored soft interior THE LADLE To achieve the smooth, that oozes irresistibly toward you, voluptuous, custardlike interior and to At the Congress of Vienna, 1814, Brie de prevent the fat and protein from being lost Meaux was declared the “King of Cheeses.” and a characteristic rich taste like wild, in the whey, cheesemakers must handle the smoky mushroom soup made with beef fragile, ﬂoppy curd by hand, using a The worldwide reputation of Brie consommé. If it smells strongly of perforated ladle known as a pelle à brie, de Meaux was established in 1814, ammonia, then it will deliver a vicious ﬁrst used in the 12th century. when it was declared le Roi des bite. However, one man’s meat is Fromages, “the King of Cheeses,” another man’s poison. at a culinary tournament during If you prefer Brie that is runny FRANCE the Congress of Vienna. The close rather than with a chalky band of proximity of Île-de-France to the immature curd through the center, markets of Paris and the charming buy it near its “best by” date. Don’t wooden box in which it is sold have be alarmed by any white mold that also contributed to its rise to fame. grows down the cut surface; this just Brie de Meaux is one of only 46 tells you the cheese is alive and well French cheeses protected by the AOC and trying to protect its soft interior label, which guarantees the quality from drying out. It’s best kept in its of a cheese as well as where and how original paper or wax paper. Plastic it is made (see p8). To qualify, Brie wrap prevents the cheese from must be made in speciﬁc areas with breathing; the ammonia released calf rennet and 6.6 gallons (25 liters) 46 of unpasteurized milk. The curd during ripening will be trapped and, within a day or so, the cheese must be ladled by hand into the will start to sweat. molds, and each cheese must be dry- salted, then ripened slowly at a HOW TO ENJOY It would almost speciﬁc temperature and humidity. be a crime to do anything with Brie de Brie de Meaux and Camembert Meaux except allow it to reach room de Normandie (see p44) are often temperature and enjoy it with a red considered similar, but in fact Côte-du-Rhône, Bordeaux, or Burgundy FRANCE Ile de France or, as beﬁts the King of Cheeses, a glass Age 6–8 weeks of vintage Champagne. Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb (3kg), wheel Size D. 10in (25cm), H. 31⁄4in (8cm) Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Soft white Producer Various RIND The cheese is softest under the rind where the mold is working to ripen the curd. RIPENING The cheeses spend a minimum of four weeks in a special cellar where they are turned regularly. First, a sprinkling of red or brown streaks or spots known as ferment du rouge starts to appear; then the more assertive white molds, Penicillium candidum and Penicillium camemberti, gradually cover the rind in a ﬁne coat of white velvet. SALTING The cheeses are dry-salted by hand. This helps to seal the cheese as well as draw out the moisture. The fat content is around 26 percent, signiﬁcantly less than hard cheeses such as cheddar (see pp180–181). FRANCE 47 Whole cheese, slice removed Cendré de Niort Chabichou du Poitou Chaource AOC Cendré traditionally refers to the AOC Said to have been created by the monks method of maturing cheese in a box of This natural-rinded cheese comes from of Pontigny, the name of this soft wood ash to form the rind, rather than the Loire, home to the majority of white-rinded cheese comes from the simply sprinkling the coat with ash. French goat cheeses. It has been town that is the center of that region. It Most of these cheeses originate in wine- protected by the AOC label since 1990, was originally sold fresh or demi-sec, growing regions; they were made when and its production can be fermier, but now it is preferred as a more mature milk was abundant, preserved in wood cooperative, or industrial. cheese. AOC-protected since 1970. ash until harvest time, and then served to the hungry grape-pickers. TASTING NOTES The thin white rind, TASTING NOTES Its white, crusty, and with its yellow and blue mold, conceals downy rind becomes pigmented with FRANCE TASTING NOTESThis fermier cheese has a cheese with a distinct aroma and brown as it ages. It has a creamy a real countryside aroma and a fairly a pronounced to sharp ﬂavor, compared texture and a milky, fruity ﬂavor with milky ﬂavor. The chestnut leaf it is to other goat cheeses. a faint aroma of mushrooms, becoming wrapped in imparts a vegetal hint. sharper and salty as it matures. HOW TO ENJOY Delicious with the lively, HOW TO ENJOYOpen a fruity and light fruity red wines of the Neuville-de- HOW TO ENJOY Team it with fruity white red wine with Cendré de Niort, such as Poitou, Dissay, and Saint-Martin-la- wines of Saint-Bris-le-Vineux, Chablis, a Chinon or an Alsace Pinot Noir. Rivière regions. and Irancy, or fruity reds and rosés. FRANCE La Fragnée, Poitou-Charentes FRANCE Poitou-Charentes FRANCE Saligny, Bourgogne Age 6 weeks Age 3 weeks Age 2 weeks–2 months Weight and Shape 41⁄2oz (125g), round Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (100g), cylinder Weight and Shape 1lb 5oz (600g), small Size D. 4in (8cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Size D. 21⁄2in (6cm), H. 21⁄2in (5cm) cylinder 48 Milk Goat Milk Goat Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 21⁄2in (6cm) Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Milk Cow Producer Patrick Cantet Producer Various Classiﬁcation Soft white Producer Lincet Charolais AOC Chevrotin des Aravis Cœur de Neufchâtel This fermier cheese made from goat’s AOC AOC milk hails from the Bourgogne region. One of the few washed-rind goat Neufchâtel is a cow’s milk cheese that A distinctive-looking cheese, Charolais cheeses, Chevrotin des Aravis is named is produced in Haute-Normandie, and is shaped like a small barrel and often after the type of milk used and the has beneﬁted from the AOC label since displays a characteristic bluish rind. Vallée des Aravis where it is made. It is 1969. As its name suggests, this version similar in appearance and texture to is heart-shaped, but it can also be TASTING NOTES Charolais has a ﬁrm Reblochon; a moist, yellowish-orange found as a small cylinder or brick, and compact paste and a natural rind. rind is covered with a ﬁne white mold. when it is simply called Neufchâtel. Faintly sour, it holds a distinct ﬂavor of It was granted an AOC in 2002 as the milk and almonds. 40th member. TASTING NOTES The white rind is dry, FRANCE velvety, and crumbly with a mushroomy HOW TO ENJOY Serve with chestnuts TASTING NOTES This cheese has a mild, aroma. The paste is ﬁrm but slightly and walnuts or a loaf of sourdough slightly goaty ﬂavor. The ﬁne-textured grainy, with a subtle milk taste and bread. Fruity wines, such as Fleurie, paste melts slightly at the edges. salty tang. are the most appropriate for drinking alongside this cheese. HOW TO ENJOY It is best paired with a HOW TO ENJOY Its ﬂavor works well with sharp-tasting red wine, such as a good crusty breads; locals like to melt it Mondeuse or Chignin-Bergeron. on warm bread and eat it for breakfast. FRANCE Bourgogne FRANCE Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Haute-Normandie Age 2–6 weeks Age 2 months Age 8–10 weeks Weight and Shape 4oz (120g), barrel Weight and Shape 1lb 5oz (600g), round Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), heart Size D. 2in (4.5cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Size D. 31⁄2in (9cm), H. 2in (4cm) Size L. 4in (10cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Milk Goat Milk Goat Milk Cow 49 Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Soft white Producer Various Producer Various Producer Various FRANCE 50 PERSILLÉ DE TIGNES Fine gray, brown, and white molds develop like an intricately woven spider web, and are actively encouraged by the cheesemaker because they contribute to the breakdown of the curd. (See p72) Chevrotin des Bauges Ch’ti Roux Clochette AOC The deep tangerine-orange color of This name of this goat’s cheese reﬂects This fermier cheese is produced in the this cheese is the result of roucou or its dramatic-looking shape—clochette mountain region of Savoie, known for annatto being added to the milk, and translates as “little bell.” It is produced its magniﬁcent scenery and colorful, the rind being washed with a mix of in the Poitou-Charentes region, which diverse natural pastures. This area is dark beer and annatto. Ch’ti Roux is is also home to another well-known home to many of France’s best-loved one of many cheeses made by the goat’s cheese, Chabichou. Clochette has cheeses, including Reblochon, which family of Bernard-Wierre Effroy in the a dry and crusty rind of natural mold, Chevrotin resembles except that it is Nord-Pas-de-Calais, from its own cows. but a ﬁrm and tender paste. made with goat’s milk. TASTING NOTES This ﬁrm-textured TASTING NOTESThe pleasant aroma of FRANCE TASTING NOTESA thick, rustic rind covers cheese has quite a powerful, spicy, dried hay and goats derives from the a smooth, supple, melting paste with and salty ﬂavor with a long, slightly mold and from the cellar in which it small irregular eyes. The creamy, sweet peppery ﬁnish. was ripened. It has a smooth texture ﬂavor has a hint of goat. and a warm, powerful ﬂavor. HOW TO ENJOY A dark beer or a wine HOW TO ENJOY Pair this cheese with from Bourgogne, such as Côte de HOW TO ENJOYEat it warm with olives or a fruity, dry white Savoie wine, such Beaune or Beaujolais, will complement nuts and serve alongside full-bodied as Roussette. this ﬂavorsome cheese. Burgundy wines. FRANCE Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Nord-Pas-de-Calais FRANCE Roullet-Saint-Estéphe, Age 21 days Age 4 months Poitou-Charentes Weight and Shape 101⁄2oz (300g), round Weight and Shape 14oz (400g), brick Age 2–3 weeks Size D. 31⁄2–41⁄2in (9–11.5cm), Size L. 41⁄2in (11cm), W. 1in (2.5cm), Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), bell H. 11⁄2in (4cm) H. 2in (4.5cm) Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 4in (10cm) 51 Milk Goat Milk Cow Milk Goat Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Producer Various Producer Saint Godeleine Farm (M. Bernard) Producer GAEC Jouseaume such as lively and fruity red wines. such as a cheese is a structured red wine. near Paris. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. 52 Milk Goat Milk Cow H.5cm) Size L. Washed very popular. a real delight with nut bread or raisin or for lunch. TASTING NOTES It has a subtle.5cm) Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Classiﬁcation Soft white Milk Cow Producer Various Producer Nugier. 5in (12cm). Côtes-de-Beaune. nutty little salty yet mouth-watering. Ile-de-France FRANCE Roncq. with cheese afﬁneur Philippe Olivier to (reﬂecting its name—the “heart” of A fermier or industrially-produced create this cheese. which is named Touraine) with its ash-covered rind is cheese. W. a smooth and melts in the mouth. its distinct aroma belies a mild and TASTING NOTES Like all traditional Loire creamy taste under an orange-colored goat cheese. 31⁄2in (9cm). The pale yellow paste is savory. 4in (10cm). Dongé dairies Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Marie-Therese Couvreur . a Médoc or Graves. the inside is a bit sticky TASTING NOTES Coulommiers has a rather crust. HOW TO ENJOY Coeur de Touraine is a cheese board at the end of the meal. which is very aftertaste. it on the palate and the rind is edible— pronounced tang and leaves a long is rarely seen outside the region. It is best served with HOW TO ENJOY The best match for this bread and a white wine. H. is dotted with reddish ferments and regularly with salt water and beer. The overall taste is mild. H 1in (2. FRANCE Centre FRANCE Seine-et-Marne. FRANCE including the mold. Produced in very small volume. heart Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz (500g). 4in (10cm). square Size W. This heart-shaped cheese the Île-de-France region. ﬂavor between sweet and acid. Nord-Pas de Calais Age 3 weeks at least Age 4–8 weeks Age 2 months Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (150g). Coulommiers is produced in Marie-Therese Couvreur teamed up cheeses. such as a Montlouis. which HOW TO ENJOY Delicious eaten as part of leaves a pleasing. Cœur de Touraine Coulommiers Crayeux de Roncq The Loire is famous not only for its A more petite member of the Brie The farmer and cheesemaker great chateaux. 2in (4. but also for its goat family. unusual aftertaste. it has a downy white rind that crayeux for its chalky center. a supple texture. round Weight and Shape 15oz (425g). crumbly. disc Weight and Shape 2oz (60g). When young. French Revolution. ﬂavor of both wine and cheese. to mature. most are sold much younger by a dairy that respects the traditional TASTING NOTES It has a creamy.Crémeux du Puy Crottin de Chavignol Curé Nantais This soft cheese is injected with blue AOC This cheese is believed to have been mold and is produced in the Auvergne The unfortunate name—crottin introduced to the Pays de la Loire region. Crémeux du Puy makes a popular sharp as it ages. 2in (5cm). such as a Melon Blanc. 2in (5cm) Size D. 3⁄4in (2cm) Size D. crusty bread and a glass of vigorous full-bodied wines to enjoy the Accompany it with a fruity Muscadet. and paste. becoming harder. Côtes-du-Rhône. 2in (5cm) Milk Cow Milk Goat Milk Cow 53 Classiﬁcation Blue Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Various Producer Curé Nantais dairy . which is overlaid by a a reference to the shape and color of enduring the food shortage of the delicate layer of white mold. it is tender in texture. this cheese when at full maturity. H. as Fromage du Pays Nantais Dit ﬂavors of the cave in which it was left du Curé. It has literally means horse dung—is actually region by a Vendéen monk who was a thick blue rind. FRANCE Haute-Loire. delicate when the rind is pale brown-white. Auvergne FRANCE Centre FRANCE Pays de la Loire Age 6–8 weeks Age Best around 2 months Age 1 month Weight and Shape 13⁄4oz (50g). 4in (10cm). It is also known taste. TASTING NOTES Known for its piquant FRANCE taste. it can be eaten at various stages. methods of making it. small drum Weight and Shape 14oz (400g). addition to any cheese board. renowned for its cheeses. with a soft and slightly elastic golden with a texture not unlike Reblochon. Now it is produced However. H. 3in (8cm). with a hint of mushrooms and AOC-protected since 1976. Serve HOW TO ENJOY It tastes delicious served this delicious cheese with some HOW TO ENJOY Best paired with the most with crusty bread and onion relish. TASTING NOTES A strong-tasting cheese HOW TO ENJOY Extremely ﬂavorsome. dry. featuring a few small holes. H. fresh. round Size D. In spite of Yonne region. HOW TO ENJOY This cheese combines well HOW TO ENJOY Some apple marmalade with sweet ﬂavors such as honey or ﬁg HOW TO ENJOYThis full-ﬂavored cheese and a glass of fresh cider make the jam and with fruity and aromatic white makes an interesting addition to any perfect accompaniments to this wines such as a Chablis. H. It is distinctive in its much that he asked local cheesemakers that. he liked this cheese so Pont l’Evêque and Livarot. spicy. dome Size L. This distinctive cheese’s washed. Deauville also has its own unique unusual shape. 5in (12. 11⁄2in (3. It has TASTING NOTESA member of the comes through in the ﬂavor of this a subtle ﬂavor that is later echoed by a FRANCE Maroilles family. reddish rind encases a semi-soft paste. TASTING NOTES The rich and ﬂowery TASTING NOTES Vézelay has a natural quality of the cows’ grazing pastures rind and a ﬁne. 3in (7. 2in (4. by its name. dolphin Weight and Shape 8oz (225g). Dauphin Deauville Dôme de Vézelay It is said that when Louis XIV was This modern French cheese combines This is a raw-milk fermier cheese that traveling through the Hainaut (in attributes from two of Normandie’s is produced in very small volume and modern Belgium) with the Dauphin. slightly milky semi-soft cheese. which is.5cm) Size D. mellow paste. tarragon. a Mâcon cheese board and is best paired with tasty cheese. and aromatic cheese ﬂavored with has a sticky and supple texture. and cloves. a robust wine. as indicated to name the cheese in his son’s honor. H. pepper. Blanc. 5in (12cm) Size D. FRANCE Nord-Pas-de-Calais FRANCE Normandie FRANCE Bourgogne (Yonne) Age 2–3 months Age 7 weeks Age 10 days at least Weight and Shape 14oz (400g). which spicier aftertaste. this is a strong. round Weight and Shape 4oz (120g). parsley. character and style.5cm). or a Meursault. that of a dome.5cm) 54 Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Goat Classiﬁcation Flavor-added Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Fresh Producer Various Producer Fromagerie Thebault Producer Various .5cm). most famous washed-rind cheeses: therefore rarely found outside the his son and heir. such as Côtes du Rhône. 4in (8. with holes of about 1⁄2–1in (1. This a distinctive-looking cheese. ancient artisan dinner guests. faint smell of the chestnut leaf mingles with a pleasant. wheel Size D.5cm) (80–99kg). with decorative addition of a chestnut leaf encourages the rind to develop a coral a ﬁrm. mushroomy ﬂavor.5cm) Milk Cow Size Various. as a canapé. H. and the distinctive aroma of the sea. slightly nutty taste. such as a Chinon. round Weight and Shape 176lb–220lb Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz (500g). TASTING NOTES A taste sensation. 11⁄2in (3. HOW TO ENJOY It is delicious eaten with HOW TO ENJOY This popular choice for fresh bread and onion relish.Embruns aux Algues Emmental de Savoie Feuille de Dreux This cheese will certainly impress Production of this now-popular hard This very distinctive. thanks to the imagination workers in the ﬁelds as a snack and is Nantais. FRANCE Pays de la Loire FRANCE Savoie. It goes well with all light crackers or bread. Team any cheese board can also be grated HOW TO ENJOY Excellent on a formal it with a fruity Muscadet. the TASTING NOTES Emmental has a smooth special seaweed gives this cheese texture and a mild. 1in (2. moldy aroma. lively red wine.5cm). Embruns aux Algues cheese began in France in the 19th cheese was historically eaten by is made in the same way as Curé century. such as into recipes or simply served in chunks cheese board or as a simple snack with a Melon Blanc. purpose—it stops the cheeses from sticking to each other when stacked. 7in (18cm). The the curd is mixed with seaweed. pleasant ﬂavor—it TASTING NOTES This soft white cheese has FRANCE a salty and powerful ﬂavor and a is fruity but also has a sweet and a fruity. Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Center Age 1 month Age 6 months Age Around 2 months Weight and Shape 7oz (200g). Serve with a fruity. but it is rounder in shape and of German-Swiss cheesemakers. D. 10in (25cm) Milk Cow 55 (pictured) Classiﬁcation Flavor-added Classiﬁcation Soft white Milk Cow Producer Curé Nantais dairy Producer Various Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various . It is still enjoyed by local farmers today. 34in (87cm). and fruity wines. H. ivory to pale paste punctuated on the top also has a practical pink-orange color and sticky texture. H. round Size D.5–3cm). It is the richness and diversity of climate. cows. and fudge to aromas of toast. During the (AOC) regulations as the rugged winter. and salads. along with the two of milk to make just one 80lb (35kg) native breeds of cow that must be Comté wheel. and the area in which During spring. their craft and centuries of knowledge. and gratins to fondue. milk chocolate. the cows are fed on a diet of mountains and wide plateaux of the hay cut from the summer pastures. HOW TO ENJOY The French enjoy Comté at virtually any 56 time of day. As it melts well. has not changed for blaze of colorful ﬂowers. and Rhône-Alpes Age 4–18 months Chardonnay. Weight and Shape 77–88lb (35–40kg). or fruitières. hazelnuts. pepper. coax the very best from each cheese. others can be more reminiscent of butterscotch and hazelnuts and even sweet oranges. Massif du Jura. echo with the by its thin. This system has created a sense of solidarity and pride. makes up 19 members or local dairy farms. plum jam. around 95 percent of the herds. soups. 24–28in (60–70cm). Comté AOC A CLOSER LOOK Local afﬁneurs take the young cheeses This ancient French cheese. H. the daily yield of 30 used: the native Montbéliarde cow. On average. the rest are French Simmental cows. and has preserved the traditions and the small-scale production techniques that have helped ensure that Comté continues to be one of France’s most popular cheeses. 4in (10cm) Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various . proﬁle that reﬂects the soil. and dark chocolate. It takes about 140 gallons (530 liters) unique ﬂavor. wheel Size D. well with ﬁsh and white meat and the local Jura wines or FRANCE Franche-Comté. leather. has from the fruitières and. and the fruitière has its own distinct Ain (in the Rhône-Alpes). and located within an eight-mile radius. sauces. also known as Gruyère de Comté. Chenin Blanc. and ﬂora where the FRANCE its mountain pastures and markedly cows graze—from melted different seasons that give Comté its butter. The method. or Viognier. and is now deﬁned by clanging bells as the cows return Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée from winter in the valleys. each fruitière has known for its sweet milk. a RIND Comté is recognized Comté is made. Its creamy The milk of the Montbéliarde cow is known for texture and fruity tang marries its sweetness. for over eight centuries. it can be found in numerous French dishes from quiches. with a love of been made in small village-based cooperative dairies. beige rind centuries. a region which spans the Jura. the meadows. the Doubs (both of which TASTING NOTES Each are in the Franche-Comté). THE AFFINAGE The afﬁneur must decide on the time and conditions that suit the potential of each wheel. GRADING When the afﬁnage is complete. Cheeses with a grading of at least 15 get a green Comté Extra label. texture. The texture is ﬁrm. Regular turning. and appearance. those between 12 and 14 are awarded a brown label reading Comté. slightly grainy. and more dense than cheddar. Interior FRANCE 57 The green Extra label indicates a score by the grader of at least Exterior 15 out of 20. those with a rating below 12 do not qualify for the AOC Comté label. . and rubbing with salty brine is vital to the process. dry. each batch is graded out of 20 based on its taste. brushing. 5cm). and the to enhance its sweetness and tone grazing. HOW TO ENJOY Eat it with a little honey originate from the ewe’s fragrant the cheese itself is quite tender. round Size D. and the wild. FRANCE Midi-Pyrénées FRANCE Corse FRANCE Corse Age 1–3 weeks Age 8–12 weeks Age 3 months Weight and Shape 6oz (175g). island. ﬁg Weight and Shape 16oz (450g). Not only order to make it even more decorative on this mountainous Mediterranean does it look better than other cheeses. unspoiled part the “ﬂower of the maquis”—the maquis ash. and buttery. As with other cheeses made being the Corsican landscape. 2in (4. goat cheese from the Pyrenees is Fium’Orbu is named after a small this unusual artisan cheese is called sometimes covered with dried grasses. TASTING NOTES Soft. H. river in a little-known. 5in (12cm). 2in (4. It is also qualities can be partially attributed known as Brindamour.5cm) 58 Milk Goat (3cm) Milk Ewe Classiﬁcation Fresh Milk Ewe Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Producer Various Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Various . and appealing to the tastebuds. overwhelm the ﬂavor. a meal. 1in Size D. as shown here. down its goaty ﬂavor. 3in (8cm). in of Corsica. so serve it alone. diverse grazing. Figuette Fium’Orbu Fleur du Maquis This small and charming ﬁg-shaped The sticky-rinded artisanal cheese Covered with herbs and chili peppers. TASTING NOTES The combination of herbs come from the various coatings that it and spicy chili peppers does not FRANCE is given. at the end of jam accompanied by a fruity red wine. or. with a local red like Cap Corse. 3in (8cm). TASTING NOTES Figuette is sweet and has to the warm climate. wines are light and therefore most HOW TO ENJOY This is a full-ﬂavored appropriate with this cheese. The delicious aromas breeds. round Weight and Shape 1lb 10oz (750g).5cm) Size L. the robust local a lactic ﬂavor. Corsicans eat it with ﬁg HOW TO ENJOY cheese. its complex ﬂavors and unique it also smells pretty good. tender. H. paprika. Bergerac cheese with a lingering meaty tang. thanks to the the complex herbaceous ﬂavors proportions being cleverly thought out. W. H. Washing endows this semi-soft overall taste is rather honeyed. 31⁄2in (8. and is dusted with made for family consumption. dome Weight and Shape 13lb 4oz (6kg). or with a sweet red wine.Forme d’Antoine Fouchtra Fougerus This recently created. H. The semi-soft paste has a surprisingly soft and silky texture. 14in (36cm).5cm) Size D. H. such as a Côte de HOW TO ENJOY A full-bodied. round Size D. mushroomy scent. TASTING NOTES The fern leaves used to TASTING NOTES It has quite a strong decorate the cheese give it a “forest” ﬂavor balanced with a milky and spicy TASTING NOTES This cheese has a aroma. the beginning of the 20th century. Fougerus Pas-de-Calais region. such as Saint Joseph or brightens up a cheese board. where it is produced. FRANCE taste. Coulommier. pronounced tang. It is also made using cow’s milk. sulfur-yellow molds. Vacqueyras. semi-soft cow’s The rind is similar to that of Cantal An artisan cheese that was originally milk cheese is produced in the Nord and St. the process of regular washings. wheel Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz (500g). such as a Côte de Beaune. Nectaire. such as Gewürztraminer. ﬂavorsome cheese. it milky aroma The distinctive and memorable ﬂavor melts in the mouth with a rather has a lingering almondy aftertaste. 3in (7cm) SizeD. It has a subtle. 5in (12cm). HOW TO ENJOY Pair this cheese with a full-bodied wine. 6in (15cm). Soft in texture. and the rind has a moldy. is the best match for this pairing it with a lively fruity red wine. In and encased in an orange crusty rind mild taste and its ﬂavor reﬂects the size it is slightly bigger than its Brie which is formed over six weeks through ﬂora found in the volcanic mountains relative. structured HOW TO ENJOY This decorative cheese Beaune or Beaujolais. It is formed into a colorful mix of white. Bernard Producer Various Producer Various . H. FRANCE Nord-Pas-de-Calais FRANCE Auvergne FRANCE Ile-de-France Age 4 months Age 3 months Age at its best 3–4 weeks Weight and Shape 14oz (400g). and has been commercially produced since an unusual but attractive dome shape. 11⁄2in (4cm) Milk Cow Milk Goat or cow Milk Cow 59 Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Soft white Producer M. Try wine. 2in (4. red. TASTING NOTES It has quite a pronounced ﬂavor. cured by the ﬁre. Côtes Roannaises. L. FRANCE Auvergne FRANCE Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Auvergne Age 3 months Age 3 months Age 1–2 months Weight and Shape 3lb 5oz (1. The TASTING NOTES Less creamy. spicy garlic and pepper. Weight and Shape 3lb 5oz (1.5kg). namesake towns. bodied wines.the number of these this blue cheese dates from the Roman Fourme d’Ambert and Fourme de cheeses hanging in the kitchen was period. 21⁄2–3in Milk Cow (6cm–7. HOW TO ENJOYTeam it with local wines HOW TO ENJOY It is a delicious cheese for and a full-bodied Beaujolais. 7in (17cm) Milk Cow Size D. meaning form or shape. which gives it a which it is aged. ﬂattened ball 60 Size D. The AOC was granted in 1972 Montbrison are made in their respective an indication of a farmer’s wealth and along with Fourme de Montbrison.5cm) Classiﬁcation Blue Classiﬁcation Blue Milk Cow Producer Various Producer Various Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various . or try it like Coteaux d’Auvergne or Côtes snacking. Fourme comes from the milk. Since it is hung and with blotches and broken lines of blue. Partner with robust. H. with a long. Montbrison AOC In the past. Fourme d’Ambert AOC Fourme de Gaperon One of the oldest cheeses in France. such as Côtes-du-Rhône. This however. and rich. Fourme but they now have separate AOC made by mixing buttermilk with fresh de Montbrison received its own AOC. buttermilk is no longer used. Until 2002. it has a smoky tang. 31⁄2in (9cm). with some bitterness. bold. HOW TO ENJOY Serve with wines such as Coteaux d’Auvergne. H. 5in (12cm). specialty of Auvergne was originally differences in style and terroir. hard FRANCE texture is creamy. slightly TASTING NOTES Beneath the dry. Montbrison therefore his daughter’s dowry. while stronger. in recognition of their shared its AOC with Fourme d’Ambert. Roannaises or a sweet wine. 5in (12cm). in 2002. it is still ripened by airing. ﬁnish. 8in (21cm) (350g–500g). and more complex than rind is an elastic paste containing the aroma gives a hint of the cellar in Fourme d’Ambert. full- with a sweet Sauternes or Banyuls. cylinder Weight and Shape 121⁄2oz–1lb 2oz cylinder Size D.5kg). but Latin forma. requirements. The yellow interior is streaked pronounced ﬂavor. served with strawberries. cream for every 3½oz/100g of cheese). de Nîmes. Ile-de-France FRANCE Laguiole. made This white-rinded cheese. brick Weight and Shape 66–88lb (30–40kg). and a spicy tang FRANCE age: it can be very sweet or spicy. milky ﬂavor. 31⁄2in (7. a delicate hint of goat’s milk. du Fel. mats on which it is ripened. As the cheese is always full of subtle ﬂavors and has an oily texture and sometimes ages. 14–16in 61 (35cm–40cm) Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Classiﬁcation Soft white Milk Cow Producer La Fromagerie Corbreche Producer Rouzaire dairy Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Jeune Montagne cooperative . from goat’s milk and sprinkled with the 1970s. H. but it while the almost buttery paste has but a mild. back centuries. very milky taste. ﬁrst produced by monks the Auvergne who are passionate about Made with triple cream (70 percent in their monastery in the Aubrac cheesemaking and their products.5cm). a strong smell with rind. FRANCE Auvergne FRANCE Seine-et-Marne. 1in (3. oval Weight and Shape 101⁄2oz (300g). Size L. Costières wine. Gour Blanc. grate on vegetable and chicken a meal. is the product of farmers of are not put off by a high fat content. W. You can serve it with all fruity complemented well by a light Loire dishes and use in sauces. created in Also known as Fourme de Laguiole. 4in (10cm). It is delicious wines of Marcillac. is a real treat for those who this is a very old cheese that dates wood ash. it becomes more delicious. 21⁄2in (6cm) cylinder Milk Goat Milk Cow Size D. wrinkly TASTING NOTES The triple cream gives smooth texture. It is foods. TASTING NOTES Beneath the soft. such as a Chateaumeillant. H. HOW TO ENJOY It is excellent for snacks or HOW TO ENJOY Serve Gour Noir with HOW TO ENJOY Combine it with other served on a cheese board at the end of a slice of simple country bread. the taste changes according to its Gratte-Paille a rich. TASTING NOTES Laguiole has a ﬁrm. Laguiole has beneﬁted from These same cheesemakers also make the rind bears the imprint of the straw the AOC label since 1961. mountains. 16in (40cm). Midi-Pyrénées Age 2–6 weeks Age About 4 weeks Age 4–6 months Weight and Shape 7oz (200g).Gour Noir Gratte-Paille Laguiole AOC This delicious artisan cheese.5cm) Size H. a mushroomy ﬂavor. a variety without ash. a penetrating bouquet. Midi-Pyrénées Age 2–3 months Age 3–6 months Age 2 weeks Weight and Shape 10oz (300g). starting maturity. 4in (10cm). 2in (5cm) Milk Ewe H. TASTING NOTES A farmhouse cheese. this sheep cheese produced in the Pyrénées by M. Champagne Ardenne FRANCE Puy Guillaume. cylinder Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz (500g). paste has numerous holes and differs tastes sweet with a fresh and pleasant FRANCE and it tastes a little spicy when young. HOW TO ENJOY Its brick shape makes it sticky. The texture changes with age. a passionate farmer who is originally Langres in Champagne. The ﬁnish has a subtle taste out grainy and becoming very creamy. and cheese has a penetrating bouquet. Lingot de la Ginestarie is soft. 2in (5cm). Teosky . where it was The ﬁve bands of rush leaves were from Poland and who grazes both ewes traditionally sold. W. 2in (5cm) Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Hard Milk Ewe Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Fromagerie de Terre-Dieu Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Producer Schertenleib Dairy and Reumillet Producer M. HOW TO ENJOY It is excellent in a crunchy and its fresh. 6in (15cm). FRANCE Langres. its name comes from the plateau of was created in the late 20th century. in texture depending on the level of countryside aroma. fresh ewe’s-milk cheese is resembles Epoisses de Bourgogne. a Chinon. Auvergne FRANCE Tarn. 4in (10cm). 62 Size D. brick with sunken top Size D. Langres AOC Lavort Lingot de la Ginestarie With its orange rind. Langres Shaped like a crater as a tribute to the This small. delicate taste is best HOW TO ENJOY Pair it with any of the salad. 41⁄2in (11cm) Size L. so much so that it is featured in paired with a light red wine such as full-bodied red wines of the Bourgogne several local salad-based specialties. Teosky. H. prevent the cheese from collapsing as AOC-protected since 1991. and melt-in-the-mouth. region to match its strong ﬂavor. The annatto used in originally positioned around it to and goats on his pastures. it matured. distinctive-looking on a cheese board. drum Weight and Shape 5oz (140g). TASTING NOTES This strong-smelling TASTING NOTES Its creamy and delicate becoming almost runny with age. while Auvergne volcanoes. H. the wash gives the rind its color. of hazelnuts. Whether it is eaten young or rind. drum Weight and Shape 3oz (85g). Its nickname. such as fresh bread. 11⁄2in (3. Midi-Pyrénées FRANCE Aveyron. or a sweet it offers an interesting alternative to late-harvest Alsace wine. 2in (5cm) Size D. the cheese’s washed rind and resemble a small goat’s milk cheese. and nutty powerful taste make FRANCE have a ﬁrm. HOW TO ENJOY Team a perfectly ripe HOW TO ENJOY It makes a delicious snack HOW TO ENJOY Eatwith savory chutneys cheese with any well-knit red wine. slightly kept until it is more mature. to denote an ofﬁcer’s rank. all lovers of goat cheese. sharper cheeses. FRANCE Basse-Normandie FRANCE Aveyron. but whether eaten on its own or spread on and serve with a chilled dry white wine it is equally good with a cider.5cm) Size L. 6in (15cm). it looks a little like Rocamadour.Livarot AOC Lou Rocaillou Lou Sotch One of the most ancient cheeses of Lou Rocaillou means “the craggy Lou Sotch is a small.5cm) Milk Cow Milk Ewe Milk Ewe 63 Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Producer Fromagerie E Graindorge. referring to the cheese from the Grands Causses invented by local monks. Producer M. Causse Méjean. and ﬁne paste that almost melts in the TASTING NOTES A smooth paste. always a very sweet cheese.” comes from the ﬁve plateau where the ewes whose milk its thin wrinkly rind dusted with white stripes of sedge grass that encircle creates this cheese enjoy grazing. H. but this the stripes used on military uniforms TASTING NOTES Rocaillou has a white cheese is more ﬂavorful. as an aperitif. With “the Colonel. oval Size D. Midi-Pyrénées Age 3 months Age 2 weeks Age 12–20 weeks Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz (500g). mold. orange-brown. 1⁄2in (1. H. Livarot was probably cheese” in local dialect. oval ewe’s-milk Normandie. As part of a cheese board. a large limestone Nature Park in the Aveyron area. Dombres Fromagerie Thebault . Dombres Producer M. one from Normandy. H. tender TASTING NOTES A good Livarot should mouth. 2in (5cm). supple. it is Lou Sotch a delightful alternative for sticky rind and a strong spicy ﬂavor. molded rind and a smooth. round Weight and Shape 1oz (30g). 5in (12cm). at strong. Époisses de Bourgogne AOC A CLOSER LOOK The unique appearance of Epoisses is According to legend. is ﬁrm. and a small area west of the strong. The washed-rind cheeses with their TASTING NOTES Époisses Frais. HOW TO ENJOY No cheese board is complete without a washed-rind cheese. grainy with a softening around When the monastery closed. essential part of their diet. Smear it on nut-and- raisin bread or. northern France. it was all but lost days. and slightly have seemed like a gift from above. pale orange rind and is monks left behind the recipe. in 1991. and with over a hundred of made by only four producers. joined the revival. and Montbéliarde cows. is not far behind. round decided to wash the cheese Size D. Producer Various orange rind.5cm). The monks were forbidden meat on famous town of Dijon. Weight and Shape 9oz (250g). described by some as reminiscent of smelly socks. When the outer edges are Époisses was awarded an AOC close to collapsing. it is found these—not to mention compulsory in cheese shops as far aﬁeld as the ﬁsh on Friday—cheese was an United States. and Époisses is among the greatest. Epoisses Afﬁnée has a until Robert and Simone Berthaut sticky. 1in (3cm) in a strong local brandy or marc. the Yvonne. a ﬁne red Burgundian Pinot Noir or a rich buttery Chardonnay. Despite being fast days. sticky. . pungent of the washed-rind cheeses. the inside Protected Designation Origin. However. FRANCE be made in the departments of the Cote d’Or. China. terra-cotta decided to revive the old recipe in rind and pungent spicy aroma 1956. which imparts a Milk Cow distinct alcoholic whiff and Classiﬁcation Semi-soft creates an intense. Cooking brings out its sweeter side. which mild and lactic with a subtle was then passed from mother to savory. and the To qualify for AOC status it must aroma. strangely meaty taste. moist. which also made it one of the most cheese created at Maroilles Abbey in Thierache. around 960CE. Other producers have since and a smooth velvety texture. pungent meaty taste must 30 days. H. but APPLYING BRANDY French Simmental. but its intense ﬂavor and aroma means it should be used sparingly. Époisses was created in the 16th century caused by regularly hand washing by the local monks. and the Haute is matched by the wickedly Marne. or put it on sliced potatoes 64 and bake. wrinkled. if you love strong cheese. bake and serve it with crusty bread. At 40 daughter. The monks of Époisses. vineyards of Burgundy. and Australia. yeasty tang. and. The smooth velvety texture and strong aromatic ﬂavor demands The milk for Époisses come from Brune. the the thin. It was based on the ﬁrst washed-rind the cheeses in brandy and brine. 6in (16. a spicy aromatic Riesling or Marc taking advantage of their FRANCE Bourgogne and Champagne Ardenne de Bourgogne are also equally proximity to the great Age 4–6 weeks good companions. . FRANCE 65 Round. Traditionally. PACKAGING The cheeses are packed in small round wooden boxes with wood from the Jura YELLOWING Smear-ripening causes the rind to mountains. the young cheeses are washed in a mix of brine and a special bacteria called Brevibacterium linens. and Instead. they gradually change from pale yellow-orange to an were lined with chestnut leaves. attractive brown paper leaves are used instead. increasingly sticky. health regulations. by the intensity of its color. a process often referred to as smear-ripening. to terra-cotta in color. Now. SMEAR-RIPENING Every day for 4–6 weeks. The perforated ﬁlm stretched over the box in which it is sold prevents the buyer from The washed rind is orange feeling if the cheese is ripe. portion removed The interior is moist and creamy-colored. you judge its maturity pungent in ﬂavor. glistening tangerine orange with but these are now banned due to a ﬁne dusting of white ﬂora or yeast. such as with bouquet. square Size D. W. H. Its Bourgogne region and was given mold and promotes the development of high cream content means it is more the AOC label in 2005. Weight and Shape 13⁄4lb (800g). TASTING NOTES It has a unique taste: a faint goaty and slightly nutty ﬂavor. 11⁄2in (4cm) top. mouth and a nutty ﬂavor. It has Eaten fresh. it keeps for longer in the refrigerator. TASTING NOTES Maroilles’ paste is TASTING NOTES It develops a soft white and a delicate aroma of spring herbs. FRANCE Ile-de-France and Normandie FRANCE Bourgogne FRANCE Nord-Pas-de-Calais Age 3–4 weeks Age 1–2 weeks Age 4 months Weight and Shape 8oz (225g). drum Weight and Shape 2oz (60g). 11⁄2in (3.5in (31⁄2cm) at H. and oily. a strong ﬂavor and aroma with a sweet. vigorous red wines. a wickedly rich. H. Eat it alongside all very strong. such as Beaujolais and Mâcon. Regular turning and by adding generous quantities of cream year round. it is white and creamy. Forget the fat slightly salty.5cm) Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Soft white Milk Goat and cow Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Producer Various Producer Various .5cm). 5in (13cm). 1. the bacteria that gives the rind its stable than other soft white cheeses. 2in (5cm) truncated cone Size L. such as red Bouzy. golden-yellow. Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Maroilles was invented by Roman general and gourmet. Lucullus Mâconnais AOC Maroilles AOC This soft white cheese is produced in The Mâconnais is made from pure The most famous cheese in the north Normandy and named after a famous goat’s milk or from a combination of of France. 3in (7. 2in (5cm) at base. soft. which is available monks in 962 CE. it becomes harder and lingering aftertaste. luxurious feel in the left to mature. bread and team with a light fruity wine region. content—just enjoy the taste! HOW TO ENJOY A local favorite involves HOW TO ENJOY It is best served with the using Maroilles in a sauce for chicken HOW TO ENJOY Eat on crackers or crusty dry and fruity whites of the Mâconnais dishes. It is produced in the washing eliminates the natural white to the milk before it is coagulated. It is made goat’s and cow’s milk. so distinctive orange-red color. 5in (13cm) 66 Milk Cow Size D. and it has FRANCE rind with a mushroomy aroma. the producers colored with annatto and aged for for centuries. 3–4in 67 Milk Cow (7. curd from the evening milking. It is characterized by northern France. 3in (7. 6in (16cm). then covered it with (in 1981). The more it ages. It is produced using end of August and the middle of March. the sweeter and stronger the taste. wheel Size D.5cm). FRANCE Nord-Pas-De-Calais FRANCE Franche-Comté FRANCE Franche-Comté Age 3–24 months Age 1 month Age 2–3 months Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb–6lb Weight and Shape 4oz (115g). however. this colorful cheese changes from TASTING NOTES This creamy cheese has FRANCE bright orange to orange-brown. Pairs HOW TO ENJOY Scoop it out with a spoon with all light and fruity wines. a horizontal dark line in the center of the same methods as Edam. H. but is commonly oven and eat it like fondue. a rather pronounced ﬂavor. who have been granted an AOC label morning curd. it is the French sprinkled soot from wood ﬁres over the a minimum of three months. such as at the end of the meal or melt it in the HOW TO ENJOY Serve with a local Arbois Côte de Beaune. milky aroma. 5in (13cm) Milk Cow Size D. bal Size D. port. 1⁄2in (1cm) (5–9kg). round Weight and Shape 11lb–19lb 13oz (2. Traditionally. 14–16in (36–41cm). TASTING NOTES As it ripens. Today. wine or light and fruity wines like served with beer. H.7kg). H. Beaujolais or Jura. The ﬂavor is spruce band that binds it and helps it paste. and a mild but becomes stronger with age.5–10cm) Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Hard Milk Cow Producer Various Producer Various Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various . but is It has been produced in both countries the cheese. and it is there the cheesemakers of Comté in the Jura century it has also been made in that this cheese is made between the mountains. or Madeira.5kg–2. HOW TO ENJOY Eat as an appetizer. and the a delicate taste with a hint of the TASTING NOTES It has a soft and delicate texture becomes brittle. the paste of wood ash is used to recreate the look.Mimolette Mont d’Or AOC Morbier AOC This hard cheese originated in the The Mont d’Or mountains lie on the This washed-rind cheese is made by Netherlands. mild. to keep its shape while maturing. but since the 17th French–Swiss border. 3in (7cm). a young cheese with Gewürztraminer. round 68 Milk Goat Size D. and mountains. production method for a goat cheese. is placed on a chestnut leaf and ripened at high humidity. It is slightly nutty and has the ﬂavor of rich milk. penetrating smell and fresh. mouth cheese with a full-bodied red and an older one with very full-bodied wine from Poitou. Weight and Shape 10oz– 3lb 3oz Size D. HOW TO ENJOY Eat it with fresh seasonal Feuille has a light. with cumin. delicate aftertaste. it established in 1969. H. forests. It is province by the Moors during the 15th cheese of monastic origin that dates a fermier cheese that is produced in century and now play a signiﬁcant role back to the Middle Ages. Beaujolais. H. 4in (10cm). Morvan Mothais-sur-Feuille Munster AOC This is a soft cheese that is typically Goats were introduced to the Poitou Munster is an ancient. drum Weight and Shape 8–9oz (225–250g). Its AOC status was a beautiful nature preserve of woods. TASTING NOTES With a soft. it with cumin on boiled potatoes. sticky white a version available that comes ﬂavored rind and creamy texture. moldy aroma and a berries. TASTING NOTES This cheese is best eaten conditions. It is also Bourgogne and named after the in the local economy. FRANCE Bourgogne FRANCE Poitou-Charentes FRANCE Alsace and Lorraine Age 3 weeks Age 2 weeks Age 2–3 months Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (115g). 11⁄2in (4cm) round (280g–1.5–8cm) Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Milk Cow Producer Various Producer Various Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various . 1–3in Milk Goat (2. rather than in dry TASTING NOTES When properly matured. Pair or Mâcon. reds like Côte-Rôtie or Haut-Médoc.5kg). HOW TO ENJOY Partner this melt-in-the. This farmhouse known as “Géromé” when made in the Regional Nature Park of Morvan. H.5cm) Size D. so it retains more moisture. washed-rind eaten during spring and summer. it has a strong. There is also FRANCE a faint goaty ﬂavor. HOW TO ENJOY Eat this like a local: serve wine such as Mâconnais. Team with a light white long-lasting. 1in (2. cheese undergoes an unusual Lorraine region. 5–7in (13–19cm). Mothais-sur. 7–11in (18–28cm). best eaten alongside a light red wine. in Béarn. and encompasses a number of based on Époisse and is washed every has a rather gritty. 1in (3. It is Cendré (shown here). round Size D. in the Basque Country. Bourgogne Age 1 month Age months minimum Age 4 weeks Weight and Shape 101⁄2oz (300g). ash-gray rind. 5in (12cm). 1in (2. reddish in color. and the rind scented cheese is ﬁne and creamy. especially after a long has a powerful and penetrating ﬂavor a slight scent of mold. tinged with is pretty ﬁrm. matured in ashes. If you have a strong palate. round Size D. covered in crushed pepper. HOW TO ENJOY Serve with rosé wines from the region.Olivet Ossau-Iraty AOC Palet de Bourgogne Named after the town on the Loire The name of this hard cheese refers to This cheese is a 20th-century creation River in which it was ﬁrst made. round Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb–15lb 7oz Weight and Shape 41⁄2oz (125g). which counterbalances its sharpness.5cm) (2–7kg). that is not unlike Époisses and Ami du try the Espelette pepper variety. is also featured in numerous local dishes. Chambertin. red. 3–41⁄2in Milk Cow 69 (7–15cm) Classiﬁcation Soft white Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Ewe Producer Various Producer Fromagerie Gaugry Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various . and Poivre is breathtakingly beautiful region.5cm) Milk Cow Size D. 31⁄2in (9cm). such as a Borgueil. cheesemaker Raymond Gaugry. H. H. and the of the well-known Burgundian is produced in a variety of forms. but not as strong. and FRANCE of salt and mushrooms. FRANCE Centre FRANCE Pays Basques FRANCE Gevrey-Chambertin. a local black cherry jam. maturation. TASTING NOTES Ossau-Iraty has a sharp TASTING NOTES The paste of this strongly TASTING NOTES Olivet has a subtle taste and somewhat nutty taste. It such as a Savigny-les-Beaune. H. such as a Pinot HOW TO ENJOY Eat in traditional fashion HOW TO ENJOY This full-ﬂavored cheese is Meunier from Orléanais or any fruity with itxassou. au wonderful cheeses made using the milk two days with brine and Marc de Foin has a white rind covered with a of the Manech ewes that graze in this Bourgogne so that it becomes wet and few strands of dry grass. forests of Iraty. Olivet the valley of Ossau. W. 3⁄4in (2cm)) 70 Size L. this This artisan cheese is produced in both A unique cheese.5cm) Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Milk Cow Milk Goat Producer M. W. Teosky Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Producer Various . blackberries or currants to give it a Bourgueil. cheese. 31⁄2in (9cm). TASTING NOTES An organic. H. 3in (8cm). with a hazelnut note and a tongue. The paste is clean and smooth. Fleurie. it has a pale paste with a hint TASTING NOTES Pavé d’Auge has a spicy of straw in the ﬂavor. 3in (8cm). Weight and Shape 9oz (250g) square. Pavé de la Ginestarie semi-soft cheese is nowadays a generic a square and a rectangle shape. kept secret. 41⁄2in (11cm H. a little bitter. 2in Size Square: L. FRANCE Basse-Normandie FRANCE Centre FRANCE Tarn. 11⁄2in (4cm). HOW TO ENJOY Pair this with a strong. real sweetness. 41⁄2in (11cm). What is known is that name of an area). 5in (12cm). It is but exactly how it is made is a well- These include Pavé de Moyaux (the made in the Blesois region of France. Pavé d’Auge Pavé Blésois Pavé de la Ginestarie An old variation of Pont-L’Evêque. such as a Chinon. Weight and Shape 1oz (30g). H. and Trouville (named and that its bacteria form part of the after a small seaside town). Rectangle: L. French for the rough paving stones milk. or Pomerol. there are traces of straw in the rind name of a dairy). white-rinded FRANCE tingling aftertaste. cheese. 11⁄2in (3. Pavé Blesois makes a great addition to a simple salad and is best HOW TO ENJOY For a delicious combination. Pavé is the TASTING NOTES It has an aroma of goat’s ripening process. W. 3in (7cm). It has a subtle ﬂavor and strong tang that can be HOW TO ENJOY An excellent country taste but a long-lasting ﬁnish. and interesting silvery blue mold. Midi-Pyrénées Age 2 months Age 6 weeks Age 3 weeks Weight and Shape 1lb 10oz (750g). Pavé du Plessis (the near the Loire River. and its is produced from the milk of goats name for several square. Milk Goat (5cm) H. square square 10oz (300g) rectangle Size D. served with a dry and simple light pair this delicate cheese with fresh full-bodied red wine with some bouquet: white wine. washed-rind dry surface is covered in an elegant that live in the Pyrenees mountains. found in most old local towns. cheeses produced in the Auge area. Its Pavin is washed with a mix of brine The ﬁnished washed cheese has attractive. white mold. annatto in its production. or a red. tangy ﬁnish. compact in color and is tinged with the scent of Mont d’Or on which the recipe is texture with a few small holes. round Size L. It is here of Roubaix in northern France. Pommard or Mercurey. be found on the weavers’ tables.Pavé du Nord Pavin Pechegos This cheese is also known as Pavé Produced in the mountains of Forez This cheese derives its name from de Roubaix. after the textile city using a similar method to that for a plateau in the Tarn region. 5in (13cm). FRANCE Nord-Pas-de-Calais FRANCE Auvergne FRANCE Tarn. H. in the production of Pechegos graze. brick Weight and Shape 1lb (450g). hazelnuts. carrot-orange interior. such as a HOW TO ENJOY Serve it alongside potatoes character and ﬂavor to cheese sauces. a very hard. like and annatto to create a sticky orange a distinctive-looking copper-colored Mimolette. such as Jurançon. 4in (10cm). Saint-Nectaire. 11⁄2in (4cm) H. Midi-Pyrénées Age 6–24 months Age About 8 weeks Age 8 weeks Weight and Shape 8lb 13oz (4kg). 2in (4cm) Size D. HOW TO ENJOY Shave or thinly slice as HOW TO ENJOY Serve it with a full-bodied an appetizer with a beer. TASTING NOTES Pechegos has a very TASTING NOTESIt has a rock-hard. and it has the ﬂavor of based. W. orange TASTING NOTES The paste is light yellow creamy texture. and an mushrooms. Size D. 11in (27cm). with a full-bodied white. such as Madiran. similar to the famous FRANCE to brown rind. mouth-tingling. It is a real taste sensation. round Weight and Shape 10oz (300g). 3in (8cm) Milk Cow Milk Goat 71 Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various Producer Le Pic Cooperative Producer Various . intense. or use to add wine from the Bourgogne. with many different mushroomy and trufﬂe ﬂavors. 5in (13cm). this semi-soft cheese that the goats whose raw milk is used Historically. or eggs. is derived from the use of rind that is dusted with a ﬁne rind and is bound with spruce bark. H. the cheese could always is named after a lake in the Auvergne. and it breaks easily. pairs well with all lively wines from with all fruity and light red wines. HOW TO ENJOY Lightly broil or bake and accompany with a red Costières de HOW TO ENJOY Serve with rose hip jam. spicy. 1in (2. 31⁄2in (9cm) 72 Size D. and soft yet distinguishable nutty taste. and a lingering pronounced ﬂavor than most ewe’s- FRANCE aftertaste. Midi-Pyrénées FRANCE Rhône-Alpes Age 2–3 weeks Age Best around 2 weeks Age 2–6 months Weight and Shape 3–41⁄2oz (85–125g). d’Anduze. rich. soft. Although persillé translates as small goat cheeses produced in the this small cheese used to be made only “parsley. TASTING NOTES Pérail has a less on sulfurous soil. Nowadays it is considered to be a The mustard-colored pigment on the renowned specialty. and wrinkled.5cm) Milk Ewe Milk Goat Milk Goat Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Producer M. intense. The rind is barely formed. These include Pélardon des small quantities of milk when there inside the cheese rather than as a Cévennes (shown here). as a Crépy or Saumure. Pélardon AOC Pérail Persillé de Tignes Pélardon is a generic name for Although it has existed for centuries. rind is thought to be linked to the fact TASTING NOTES Pélardon cheeses have a that the goats whose milk is used graze creamy and dense texture. smooth paste and tender rind. result of piercing to encourage the blue. 21⁄2–3in (6–7. near the as a way to prevent wastage. 1in (2cm) Size D. 41⁄2in (11cm).” it in fact refers to the ﬁne Cévennes region of France. and Pélardon d’Altier. using up blue-green mold that appears naturally Alps. It HOW TO ENJOY Persillé can be enjoyed Nîmes or a full-bodied Côtes du Rhône. it becomes dry. it has a As it ripens. milk cheeses. a full. cylinder disc Size D. disc Weight and Shape 2lb (900g). H. matures it develops a natural mold. H. FRANCE Languedoc-Roussillon FRANCE Aveyron.5cm). Dombres Producer Various Producer Various . H. probably because of its TASTING NOTES It is lactic and herbaceous thin. southern France. and as it rather short aging period. Weight and Shape 3–5oz (85–140g). milky and nutty ﬂavor. such such as Gigondas or Vacqueyras. Pélardon was not enough left to make Roquefort. 3–4in (8–10cm). With its with richer ﬂavors in summer and fall. such such as a Condrieux. 5in (12cm). H. and his friend unpasteurized goat’s cheese is made grass and shrubs of the Ardèche and Pierre. buttery and the ash binding infuses it with paste is so dry that the ﬂavor is best and slightly sour cream tang melts in a woody aroma. This soft white cheese is now from the milk of an alpine breed of Drome regions. 5in (12cm). round Weight and Shape 4oz (115g). rich taste. from the Côtes-du-Rhône. round Size D. 2in (5cm) Milk Goat Milk Goat Milk Cow 73 Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Classiﬁcation Soft white Producer Fromagerie Fermier Cabrioulet Producer Various Producer Fromagerie Rouzaire . is best paired with a fruity white wine. After the whey is drained from of plants with strong aromas and cheese for anyone watching their calorie the curds. the cheese is circled with ﬂavors. the TASTING NOTES This very creamy. 1in (2. Ile-de-France Age 6 weeks Age 1 month Age 1 month Weight and Shape 10oz (300g). H. H. The ﬁnished cheese obtained by sucking the cheese. 3in (7.Petit Fiancé des Picodon AOC Pierre-Robert Pyrénées This cheese is made from the milk of Pierre-Robert owes its name to Robert First created in 1989. as Pommard or Mercurey. FRANCE Midi-Pyrénées FRANCE Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Seine-et-Marne. Picodon its spicy ﬂavor. These pastures are full made by Rouzaire’s son. this the goats that graze on the mountain Rouzaire. AOC-protected since 1983. It is not a goats. becomes richer and tangy. TASTING NOTESThe washing process TASTING NOTES The goats’ diet gives FRANCE gives the cheese a moist texture. the producer. 1in (3. the mouth when young.5cm). Over time. this triple-cream cheese has a band of ash wood and washed highest quality. lively.5cm) Size D. full-bodied red and white wines or with a full-bodied Bourgogne. Picodon has been extra cream added to the milk to give it repeatedly for six weeks as it matures. HOW TO ENJOY Picodon tastes delicious HOW TO ENJOY Petit Fiancé des Pyrénées when added to salads or paired with HOW TO ENJOY It is delicious with pears. which produce milk of the intake. a fat content of 75 percent for every 3½ /100g and a luxurious. it has a supple melting interior. however.5cm) Size D. round Weight and shape 1lb (450g). a few slices of sweet jambon de pays (air-dried ham). TASTING NOTES When young. which receive their milk from local farms. the northeastern parts of Savoie by tax was removed and the farmers individual farmers (fermier). Reblochon—from the old Savoie word that production is always near the or “farmhouse. such as Merlot. This additional stipulation that it can only be made “tax-free” milk was then made into from unpasteurized milk ensures THE CASEIN LABEL A round green casein stamp on the rind means it’s a fermier. round Size D. or try a soft red with low Producer Various tannin. The farmer would only partially milk his feeding of silage or concentrates is cows in the presence of the tax man. and Montbéliarde cows that the cheese has the sweetness of stolen graze the alpine pastures in summer fruit. The reason for secrecy was the introduction of a tax. the indigenous breed of cows. the summer pastures in winter. cooperatives. as a Age 4–12 weeks topping for soups. banned because it can taint the then. After the French Revolution. Milk Cow light beer. but do not be deterred. The fermier cheese has a more intense. farmers who grazed their cattle in the magniﬁcent Haute-Savoie pastures overlooking Lake Annecy were forced to pay a tax based on the milk yield of their cows. The interior captures the aroma of the wild ﬂowers and herbs of the 74 Haute-Savoie pastures. (fruitière). In the 14th century. However. states that the milk can only come from the indigenous Abondance. HOW TO ENJOY Traditionally served with crusty pain de campagne (a sourdough bread). it is no longer and dine on hay cut from those rich sweet but tastes of freshly pickled. and cream. matured in Haute-Savoie and or by the milk of more than one herd within a wider deﬁned area. or sweet cider make perfect Classiﬁcation Semi-soft companions. A red cow’s udder again”—and kept for Reblochon must be made and stamp means it has been made in a factory. family consumption only. who AOC regulations since 1976. (240–550g). and pickled gherkins.” cheese. it was unheard-of until after the French region. to “remilk” or “pinch the source of the raw material. revolution. once he departed. complex ﬂavor and a barnyard aroma. 31⁄2–5in (9–12cm). were free to sell their cheese. Round of Reblochon like a river of cheese and is amazing FRANCE Rhône–Alpes grilled on bread or vegetables. or on ratatouille. H. it melts The Haute-Savoie pastures and Lake Annecy. crunchy walnuts and a hint of mountain ﬂowers. 1in (3cm) Apremont. or Reblochon has been protected by the commercial dairies (industriel). and the were remilked. Its supple. chalet or farms in the Thones area. the cows sweetness of the milk. made in an Alpine reblocher. FRANCE Tarine. a crisp local white wine. To avoid payment of the tax. . creamy texture ﬂows over and caresses the palate like warm English custard. As it matures. and the people who make it. Reblochon de Savoie AOC A CLOSER LOOK Reblochon is a piece of history and a Although Reblochon has been made in summer alpine pastures reﬂection of the unique geology of the since the 13th century. baked with potatoes The supple interior oozes Weight and Shape 9oz–11⁄4lb beneath the rind. The rind ranges from pinkish-yellow when young to a pale terra-cotta red. the rind grows a mix of gray and white molds. The curd is brushing and washes in brine. The rind should then ladled into each mold and a small wooden disc placed over the top to lightly press the curd. often carved into the hillside under the mountain chalets. not damp. which are discouraged by regular PRESSING A large piece of white cloth is stretched over a tray of cheese molds. so you need to rely on your cheesemonger to tell you if it is ripe. FORMING THE RIND In cool cellars. . feel supple and be dry. not cracked or split. FRANCE PACKAGING Reblochon is wrapped with a little wooden disc on the base and sometimes on top. 75 The wrinkles and irregularities in the rind are formed when the cloth is trapped in the curd during pressing. usually covered with whitish ﬂora. smooth. FRANCE 76 SELLES-SUR-CHER Over the ﬁne ash coating. (See p88) . As the cheese dries out. a ﬁne. the original skin shrinks and wrinkles. velvetlike white Penicillium candidum mold is overlaid by splotches of blue-gray Penicillium glaucum. W. 1in (2.Pithiviers Pont-l’Évêque AOC Port Salut Produced in Bondaroy. round Size D. when milk was plentiful and then the oldest French cheeses.5cm) Size D. near Orléans. 5in (12cm). or it is perfect grilled or squished on a fresh and Touraine (Chinon and Bourgeuil). TASTING NOTES The white rind is TASTING NOTES The creamy yellow. 4in (10cm). squishy. sweet taste. sprinkled with hay. square Weight and Shape 11oz (320g). It is even by 1873 it was so popular a ﬂag was stored in hay until the fall. H. 4in (10cm) H. and meadow ﬂowers. baguette. 1in (2. H. exuding a Older cheeses have a stronger ﬂavor. have an elastic texture and farmyardy tangy ﬂavor. or with HOW TO ENJOY An integral part of a pale red Pinots of Orléanais and the a glass of full-bodied red wine. Now it is mentioned by Guillaume de Lorris in raised in the Paris markets announcing produced all year round. but it is still his 13th-century allegorical poem its arrival. round Weight and Shape 12oz (350g). Traditional rounds mold and mushrooms. 11⁄2in (4. Basse Normandie FRANCE Loire Sable Age 4–5 weeks Age 5–6 weeks Age 8–12 weeks Weight and Shape 101⁄2oz (300g). Producer Bel Group Fromagerie Thebault . was granted an AOC in 1976. FRANCE Centre FRANCE Pont-l’Évêque.4cm) 77 Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Soft white Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Fromagerie E Graindorge. 4in (10cm). French cheese board for over 100 years.” Pont-L’Évêque craftsmen at the Bel creamery in the herbs. and taste like your FRANCE is soft with a slight fragrance of ripens.5cm) Size L. and the paste smooth paste develops small holes as it velvety smooth. notes of Trappist-style cheeses. Originally called Angelot. Côtes du Rhône. TASTING NOTES Wedges are mild. “Roman de la Rose. this Created in 1816 by the monks at Pithiviers used to be made in summer washed-rind cheese is probably one of Abbaye du Port du Salut in the Loire. HOW TO ENJOY Try eating this cheese HOW TO ENJOY Team Pithiviers with the alongside a glass of stout. and has a lingering. fruity. best-ever cheese sauce. It is now made by master covered in ﬁne strands of dried grasses. lively light red wines of Orléans from Bordeaux. classic round and commercial styles. served with a Trappist beer. Burgundy. garlic. and serve with cooked meats from the Touraine and Berry regions. presented in a small pot. front of an open ﬁre and. powerful and sour to salty to sweet. and perhaps to reddish rind which is dusted with a Some are made with added ﬂavors. texture melts superbly and has a sweet HOW TO ENJOY Do as the Corsicans do taste that is stronger when melted. Milk Ewe Milk Goat H. a fruity Chenin or Sauvignon wine potatoes. FRANCE TASTING NOTES The strong. then spread on bread like blue-gray mold. and match it with spicy food and a HOW TO ENJOY It is superb for a cheese full-bodied red wine. 3 ⁄2in (8cm) 78 Size D. Its pretty board or broiled. and la crumbly paste. It has an aroma buttery ﬂavor has vegetal overtones.5–7kg). 11–14in (28–36cm).5–7. meaning to scrape. This Corsican variation is smoked over beechwood. The remnants 1972. as it melted. some herbs. soft. and fruity red or white Savoy wines. TASTING NOTES With a moist. made with mustard seeds. as this using leftover cheese. a recipe AOC The name is derived from the French developed by the French as a means of This goat cheese.5cm) Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Milk Cow Producer Various Producer Various Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various . jar Weight and Shape 7oz (200g). au vin blanc. pyramid Weight and Shape 83⁄4lb–15lb 7oz (4. AOC protected since verb racler. such as Raclette Fumée. is nicknamed “the Pyramid” or cheese was traditionally placed in of ewe’s-milk cheeses are gathered “the Eiffel Tower” because of its shape. FRANCE Corse FRANCE Centre FRANCE Rhône-Alpes Age 20 weeks Age 3–5 weeks Age Minimum 2 months Weight and Shape 10oz (300g). of the straw and of the milk of the TASTING NOTES The supple. the ﬂavor changes from moutarde. vaguely knobby. elastic Alpine goats used to produce it. and rubbed with a white wine. spices. H. Team it with HOW TO ENJOY Slice and grill or broil with presentation is a bonus. together and combined with a little It has a dry. wheel Size No size 1 Size D. which is butter. pale cream scraped onto hot potatoes or bread. 3in (7.5cm). white wine. 2in–3in (5. Pot Corse Pouligny-Saint-Pierre Raclette de Savoie Pot Corse is a fromage fort. it has brings a yellow tinge to the blue-white most rigottes. robust red wine. paste. ﬁrm. pronounced ﬂavor. a renowned apart from other Cabécou cheeses that afﬁneur based in Bourgogne. crinkled rind of the ﬁnished product. cow’s milk. but smaller. buttery tang. region. and a honey and TASTING NOTES With a tender and creamy ﬂavor with a peppery. nutty bread are good accompaniments the light and fruity wines of Côtes to this goat cheese. 1⁄2in (1. and after the best-known market in the Similar to Charolais.Racotin Rigotte de Condrieu Rocamadour AOC During the production process. H. H. preferably of the Cahors region. It has a natural FRANCE slightly grainy texture and a goaty rind. Rocamadour tastes mild and slightly milky. and it This farmhouse cheese is quite rare in Cabécou de Rocamadour. 2in (4. 1in (3cm) Size D.5cm) Milk Goat Milk Goat Milk Goat 79 Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Producer Various Producer Various Producer Various . This change in name sets it aged by Bernard Sivignon. but since it is the natural ﬂora in the milk that that it is made with goat’s milk. It is a very old cheese.5cm). which are made with been renamed simply Rocamadour. acacia aroma. 11⁄2in (4cm). the curd AOC This goat cheese was once known as of this goat cheese is drained. FRANCE Bourgogne FRANCE Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Lot. du Rhône. unlike gained its AOC status in 1996. TASTING NOTES Rigotte de Condrieu are not made in the Rocamadour area. and Côtes HOW TO ENJOY Serve with ﬁgs and white wine. Midi-Pyrénées Age 3–4 weeks Age 2 weeks Age 1–3 weeks Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (100g). Beaujolais. it is has been AOC-protected since 2008. a robust paste. but has a delicious sweet HOW TO ENJOY Fresh raspberries and HOW TO ENJOY It goes perfectly with and nutty aftertaste. disc Size D. cylinder Weight and Shape 2oz (60g). H. along with a crisp du Lyonnais. round Weight and Shape 1oz (30g). 2in (5cm). 21⁄2in (6cm) Size D. tastes milky but does not have a very and so cannot carry the AOC label. pair with a fruity. TASTING NOTES Racotin has a dense. The combination outdoors. oval round or heart Size D. HOW TO ENJOY Rove Cendré’s ash all lively and fruity wines. 1⁄2in (1cm) Size D. Weight and Shape 9oz (250g). berries. 4in (10cm). H. Serve with fresh Savigny-les-Beaune. such as coating and fresh lemony tang make it Saint-Émilion. FRANCE Picardie FRANCE Midi-Pyrénées FRANCE Provence-Alpes-Côte D’Azur Age 6–8 weeks Age 1 month Age 2 weeks Weight and Shape 7–10oz (200–300g). which is achieved by ladling the curd into distinct long horns and red coats. Rollot Rouelle du Tarn Rove Cendré This semi-soft washed-rind cheese used This creamy goat cheese was created Generously sprinkled with ash. Its unusual and distinctive shape has around 200 Rove goats with their produced. round Weight and Shape 21⁄2oz (75g). H. and the ﬂavor is aromatic HOW TO ENJOY The heart-shaped version TASTING NOTES Rouelle du Tarn has and herbaceous. sticky texture. TASTING NOTES The texture is smooth FRANCE and creamy. Côte-Rôtie. called Cœur de Rollot. and small bushes. but in recent by a farmer from the Tarn region in Rove Cendré comes from a farm that years. deliciously creamy ﬂavor and cheese board. 1in (3cm) 80 Size D. It is then sprinkled with ash to create although the hardy goats remain TASTING NOTES This powerful cheese is a white-gray rind. light red wines. grazing on the wild fragrant similar in taste to a Maroilles (see p68) of these techniques makes it an pastures. a mold with a hole in the middle.5cm). You can serve it with a hazelnut note. and HOW TO ENJOY Ideal with all fruity and an attractive aperitif. and has a spicy tang. particularly a Saumur ﬁgs and berries. any cheese board. Provençal rosé. looks decorative on an after-dinner a milky. The paste has a aesthetically pleasing addition to soft. 2in (5cm). and a glass of or Chinon. a factory version has been 1984. 3in (7. H. It is s been molded into a heart shape. the to be exclusively round. made only from March to December. 11⁄2in (4cm) Milk Goat Milk Goat Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Various Producer Various . round Weight and Shape 13oz (350g). H. on Although this goat’s cheese is made Rove breed of goat that is native to the France’s northern coast. a light ale or a glass of Champagne. dense and ﬂavorsome. TASTING NOTES Supple with small holes. it develops a FRANCE white with a soft melt-in-the-mouth beer—yeasty and slightly sweet with a soft. cheese is rolled in bread crumbs to give Touraine (see pp92–93). Nord-Pas-de-Calais FRANCE Saint-Christophe-Vallon. square Age 2–3 weeks Size D. it is made Rove goats produce very little milk it a rough. it should the crisp white wines of the Loire or a a quince paste and washed down with be used sparingly in cooking. 11⁄2in (4. 51⁄2in (14cm).5cm).5cm) Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Goat Producer Various Producer Bernard Brothers Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Producer Pavé Jacquin . It is distinctly goaty with a is overlaid with a hint of thyme and nutty taste and a light moldy aroma. W. as seen here. this semi-soft in the same way as Saint-Maure de Mediterranean and now very rare. HOW TO ENJOY Great on a cheese board because of its unusual appearance. 2in (5. Serve with light red wine of the Chinon. 2in (5cm). but HOW TO ENJOY It is excellent with any of HOW TO ENJOY Excellent served with like all washed-rind cheeses. log Milk Goat Milk Cow Size L.Rove des Garrigues Sablé de Wissant Saint-Christophe This fresh cheese is named after the A recent creation made in Wissant. sandy (or sablé) rind that outside the area designated by the each day (about 2 liters compared with absorbs the pale local beer in which it AOC regulations. so the cheesemaker an average of 5 liters in other breeds). It has the aroma and taste of very moist environment. FRANCE Provence-Alpes-Côte D’Azur FRANCE Wissant. Age 1–2 weeks Age 7 weeks Midi-Pyrénées Weight and Shape 21⁄2oz (75g). wrinkled rind and creamy sensation and a fresh lemony tang that pungent barnyardy ﬁnish. a glass of red Côtes du Ventoux. 81 H. sticky. this cheese feels rich and creamy in the TASTING NOTES Since it is matured in a TASTING NOTES The paste is pure mouth. H. is washed. texture. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size L. It is available but what they do produce is extremely plain or with ash. must use another name. 5in (12cm). wild herbs. 2in (5cm) Weight and Shape 10oz (280g). and go down four to ﬁve levels. in achieving their own distinct and individual character. H. a piece of bread and cheese. as it cuts though the salty tang and highlights the sweetness of the milk.5cm) Milk Ewe Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various . Lactation lasts from December to the mold will have fanned out to the July. 3–4in (8. Pencillium roqueforti. and spectacular in sauces or crumbled on top of salads or pasta. France Midi-Pyrénées Age 3 months Weight and Shape 51⁄2–61⁄4lb (2. cheese to be granted Appellation Pockets of mold. left his lunch. the fungus responsible for Roquefort’s blue-gray mold. TASTING NOTES When fully aged. grazing on the edges of the buttery mass in streaks FRANCE tussock grasses and wild herbs. maturing their cheese in the deep It takes milk from 6–8 ewes to make limestone caves of Cambalou. and pockets and the ﬂavor is spicy. chemicals. the texture is crumbly rather than cohesive.9kg). unwanted molds. d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) status. or Roquefort has been protected since stainless steel shelves are allowed to 1411 when Charles VI signed a disturb the delicate balance that has charter granting the people of for centuries produced one of the Roquefort-sur-Soulzon the rights to world’s ﬁnest cheeses. The often harsh climate brings Only those unfamiliar with the hot.000 years ago Roquefort in the world. rocky geography has milk cheese with Roquefort. produces around 3½–5 pints strong.5–2. each using when a lovestruck shepherd. Traditionally it is paired with 82 Port or Sauternes. but it is fantastic with just about any dessert wine. dry summers and cold winters. The natural make it. remembered the cheese and found it had developed a greenish mold through the center. Sadly. drum Size D. some Roquefort is consumed too young. shepherds have been (2–3 liters) of rich. and mouth-watering. 8in (20cm).5–10. and in 1926 it was the ﬁrst caves are about 985ft (300m) wide. Roquefort AOC A CLOSER LOOK There are only seven producers of Folklore has it that Roquefort was created some 2. when there is barely a hint of blue. and the bite has no backbone. No one 6lb 6oz (3kg) cheese. for centuries been home to a local breed of hardy indigenous sheep. A few days later he is the Roquefort Société. distracted by his young love from the same basic process and yet each tending his sheep. HOW TO ENJOY Roquefort is sublime when eaten in chunks with sourdough bread. Since then. process would compare other ewe’s- and the rugged. The biggest the cave where he had been sheltering. and each sheep. ﬂavorsome milk. FRANCE 83 Drum. The rind is very open and porous. is sprinkled over the newly formed cheeses. large loaves of locally grown rye bread are placed in the caves and over three months grow a ﬁne furry gray coat. which. quarter removed . After piercing. in the caves to prevent any further mold growth on the rind. the spore-laden air quickly penetrates the nooks and crannies of the loosely packed curd. developing FOIL WRAPPING The cheeses are pockets of delicious wrapped in foil four weeks after their arrival blue-green mold. THE CAVES The numerous cracks and ﬁssures of the limestone caves allow the cool air and indigenous molds to circulate. To encourage the growth of the blue Penicillium roqueforti molds. when dried and powdered. round Weight and Shape 1lb (450g). shiny rind FRANCE imbued with the scent of lavender and creamy. having been known as Carré Saint-Domnin. 4in (10cm). and is decorated with milk. TASTING NOTESThe smooth-textured wrinkly. FRANCE Provence-Alpes-Côte-D’Azur FRANCE Saint Félicien. is also the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence. near milk but is now made with cow’s located in the heart of one of France’s ancient Sisteron. strong-tasting red wine such as HOW TO ENJOY It makes the perfect Saint Amour or a white Vin de Paille HOW TO ENJOY It makes a delicious ending to a hearty lunch. that are sold when very young. Made in the Rhône-Alpes area. 1in Size D. 5in (12cm). Saint-Domnin Saint-Félicien Saint-Florentin This is an Alpine goat cheese that has A natural-rinded cheese. H. It is made in was originally produced using goat’s famous wine area of Chablis. replaced by paler. The traditional- sprigs of the lavender that thrives on it is similar to but slightly larger than style cheeses. addition to a fresh salad. H. with their reddish-brown the region’s rocky plateaus. 1⁄2in (1cm) Size D. 5in (12cm). slightly sun-drenched land. Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Bourgogne Age 2 weeks Age 2 weeks Age 2 months Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (150g). are now quite rare. with a delicate nutty ﬂavor. W. 4in (10cm). while the subtle ﬂavors associated with this the supple interior has a fresh. serve with from Jura. sharp. square Weight and Shape 7oz (200g). and is best a Provençal rosé or a sweet Muscat de served with a robust Burgundy. and creamy. a town near the a character all its own. Saint-Félicien Saint-Florentin. the interior varies cheese melts in the mouth and is from ﬁrm to almost runny and very TASTING NOTES The smooth. round Size L. 1in (2. Beaumes-de-Venise.5cm) 84 (3cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Goat Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Producer Etoile du Vercors Dairy Producer Fromagerie Lincet Producer Various . H. has a strong penetrating aroma. great dairy regions. factory-made cheeses TASTING NOTES The rind is very soft. It is also Saint-Marcellin. HOW TO ENJOY Accompany it with a salty ﬂavor and can be quite spicy. crusts. bread and any light fruity wines. wheel Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (100g). thyme. L. perfumed volcanic pastures of the land and keep goats. 1in (3cm) 85 Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Goat Producer Various Producer Various Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Producer Le Monastère Orthodoxe Saint-Nicolas . Nicholas. redolent with the ﬂavor of been AOC-protected since 1955. cheese is ripened. 8in (20cm).Saint-Marcellin Saint-Nectaire AOC Saint-Nicolas-de-la- This pale and creamy cheese has been One of the great cheeses of France. deep Saint-Marcellin can be ﬁrm to creamy. the monks live off the traditionally produced from goat’s milk. but the best have an rind gives off a subtle. H. and lush pastures. which is ﬁrm to the touch but melts in HOW TO ENJOY Eat on its own with crusty the mouth. Côtes Roannaises. slightly pungent FRANCE orange-tinged rind and are soft inside. it turns TASTING NOTES The taste. texture and from gentle orange to chestnut in color. aroma of straw and mushrooms. 31⁄2in (8. round Weight and Shape 3lb 5oz (1. Milk Cow or goat Milk Cow H. serve with a light and fruity Beaujolais especially Côteaux d’Auvergne and HOW TO ENJOY Accompanied by a glass of or fruity Côtes du Rhône. As the rind develops. fruity dry white wine. It is Salers cows that graze the rich and founded in 1965. bar Size D. appearance vary according to how the TASTING NOTES At maturity. 1in (2.5cm). 3in (7. The from the herd. fruity. subtle taste of nut.5kg). while TASTING NOTESTangy. FRANCE Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Auvergne FRANCE Languedoc. Dauphine region for centuries. they create an aromatic from cow’s milk. lemony freshness and a nutty aroma. milk. all but a handful are made uplands of the Auvergne region. HOW TO ENJOY It is superb when baked. Using raw milk but today. H. 11⁄2in (4cm). 1½in (4cm) Size W. the paste should have a pronounced ﬂavors typical of only the best goat almost liquid. cheese characterize this ﬁne example. traditional methods of production have cheese. Dalmerie made in homes and small farms in the Saint-Nectaire is made with milk from At the monastery of St. the thick The interior is stark white.5cm) Size D. Languedoc-Roussillon Age 2–6 weeks Age 8–10 weeks Age 3 weeks Weight and Shape 3oz (85g).5cm). with a light. . giving it a gorgeous tangerine-orange sticky rind that attracts white Penicillium candidum mold once the washing stops. (See p63).FRANCE 86 LANGRES The cheese is rubbed frequently with a mix of the natural dye annatto and brine. FRANCE Centre FRANCE Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Centre Age 3–5 weeks Age 1 week Age 10–21 days Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (100g). AOC-protected since 1975 to maintain goats. Sauvignon or fruity Pinot.5cm) 87 (pictured) Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Milk Goat Producer Various Producer Various Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Producer Various . HOW TO ENJOY It is excellent paired HOW TO ENJOY Its charming appearance HOW TO ENJOY Team Selles-Sur-Cher with local dry white wines. serve it with a crisp rosé or and light and fruity reds of Touraine. a big brother to the inspiration behind the “branch of needed to make a single Selles-Sur-Cher. H. goat ﬂavor. cylinder Weight and Shape 41⁄2–5oz (125–140g). The taste is FRANCE also changes from ﬁrm and grainy to a dense white paste that feels luscious a combination of sour. Crottin de Chavignol. and a subtle. such as Chinon and Bourgeuil. Size D.5cm). The locals eat the rind because they tang and a light goaty aroma. About 1. believe it gives the truest taste.3 liters of milk are like Sancerrois. D. the vineyards around This popular goat cheese has been region has been successfully breeding Lyon have been home to herds of goats. 21⁄2in (6cm). H. TASTING NOTES As it ages. but distinct. round Weight and Shape 1oz (30g). These vineyards are production. even a sparkling wine. love” that decorates this modern it is then coated with ash on which a French cheese. the Sancerre For centuries. becomes more wrinkled and dusted TASTING NOTES It has a ﬁrm texture with gray and blue molds. dense and compact. such as and small size make it perfect for an with all dry whites and rosés of Blésois. The texture TASTING NOTESSarments d’Amour has but melts in the mouth. which has led to the production which produce the milk for these its traditional artisan methods of of a range of superb goat cheeses charming cheeses. 1in (2. the protruding vine bluish-gray mold develops. salty. with a pronounced in the mouth. the rind stem lends it an attractive air. 21⁄2in (6cm) Size Various round Milk Goat Milk Goat Size Various. 3in (7. appetizer.Sancerrois Sarments d’Amour Selles-sur-Cher AOC Since the 16th century. and sweet. it rich paste is quite similar to that of paste is soft but grainy. and it is a very thin. fresh fruit. HOW TO ENJOY It is superb broiled or HOW TO ENJOY Eat this ﬂavorsome HOW TO ENJOY Team this young cheese served on its own with bread or quince cheese with ripe. forests. and orange in color. of mountain ﬂowers. which were crossed in 218 BCE by has a slightly harder rind. but cheese. 5in (12cm). Nuits and Beaune. but it can those aged by afﬁneur Denis Provent meadows. his army.5cm) Size D.5cm) 88 Milk Goat Milk Cow Milk Goat Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Producer La Chèvrerie du Signal Producer Fromagerie Berthault. roast vegetables. Fromagerie Producer Various Gaugry . such as with full-bodied Burgundies. Epine. orangey rind. TASTING NOTES Tarentais has buttery TASTING NOTES The rind is barely formed. when it in Chambéry. It is washed with a regional France’s third-largest lake. while the ﬂavor has a hint smoother with age. and a penetrating aroma. from March to November from the member of the Époisses family. cylinder Size Various Size D. H. and the mountains of be left to mature until winter. becoming can be allowed to mature to take on a Charolais. and it goes well with a salad or pears and mountain berries. and 37 elephants. H. 31⁄2in (8. 6in (15cm). originates in the Tarentaise milk of goats that graze near Lac Soumaintrain is larger and tends to be Valley in the mountains that border d’Aiguebellette in Savoie. Hannibal. 1in (2. such as paste. The best cheeses are set against a stunning backdrop of cheese is creamy and fresh. Signal Soumaintrain Tarentais This seasonal cheese is made only This brine-washed cheese is a This authentic fermier. This is eaten when much younger. The summer white wine. and ﬂowery ﬂavors and a long ﬁnish. FRANCE TASTING NOTES The very dense and moist. FRANCE Savoie. or farmhouse. round Weight and Shape 12oz (350g). when it has Italy. Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Bourgogne FRANCE Rhône-Alpes Age 3 weeks Age 6 weeks Age 15 days–3 months Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (150g). It has a spicy tang more piquant ﬂavor. while the Although it is usually eaten fresh. round Weight and Shape 81⁄2oz (240g). and appearance. 21⁄2in (6cm) base. soups. H. herbaceous pastures of the Natural Park of Bauges. a spherical coral. giving it an original taste rich diet. cone Weight and Shape 21⁄2oz (75g). serve it cheese with a red wine such as Pinot alone.5cm). tiny holes. and gray with age HOW TO ENJOY Serve this attractive HOW TO ENJOY For full effect. melted. which is reﬂected in the sweet. FRANCE Poitou-Charentes FRANCE Provence-Alpes-Côte D’Azur FRANCE Rhône-Alpes Age 3 weeks Age 1–2 weeks Age Around 5 weeks Weight and Shape 9oz (250g). to “Santa Agata’s nipple” because of The milk for this semi-soft cheese comes The curd of Taupinette is ladled into the peppercorn on its peak. a salad with fennel and endive. Excellent with a light rosé and prunes. The cheese from the cows grazing on the Alpine dome-shaped molds to mature. The rind becomes thick. round Size D. 11⁄2in (4cm) Milk Goat Milk Goat Milk Cow 89 Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Various Producer Various . It has a smooth texture delicately ﬂavored cheese a wonderfully pressed to give it a supple texture with when young. complex ﬂavors of this cheese. H. 3in (7. or de Provence wine. 7in (18cm). white creamy paste with Tomme de Savoie cheeses. aromatic quality. H. wrinkled. sphere Weight and Shape 41⁄2oz (125g).Taupinette Tétoun de Santa Agata Tomme des Bauges Charentaise The name of this goat cheese translates AOC This cheese is at its best in spring. TASTING NOTES Taupinette has a mild. sits on a bed of sweet. 2in (5cm) Size D. TASTING NOTES The contrast of TASTING NOTES One of the tastiest of the sometimes nutty ﬂavor that becomes smooth. or add to omelets. The crinkled. 21⁄2in (6cm) Size D. spread on bread. or lightly HOW TO ENJOY Combine it with hazelnuts Noir or Saint Joseph. gray-white rind of the Provençal olive oil and ﬁnely chopped The meadows of wild ﬂowers provide a ﬁnished product closely resembles herbs. since it is FRANCE more robust as it ages and the mold olive oil and fresh herbs gives this made with whole milk and lightly spreads. H. fresh ﬁgs and nuts and either a glass of a Menetou Salon. a Chinon. including pepper and the pepper. H. soft texture. The pleasant aroma is ﬂowery tasty accompaniment. disc Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb (2. a region better known for ladled by hand into disc-shaped molds made with ewe’s milk. and it has a melt-in-the-mouth complexity of ﬂavors. thyme. HOW TO ENJOY It is delicious served with a good Corsican wine. HOW TO ENJOY Fig jam makes a very texture. wheel Size D.5cm) 90 Milk Goat Milk Ewe Milk Goat Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various Producer Various Producer Various . 71⁄2in (19cm) . cheese with a sweet Jurançon wine. H. native aromatic scrub or maquis. 3in (8cm). Tomme à l’Ancienne is This typical Corsican hard cheese has This fermier goat cheese is produced in made with pure goat’s milk and is a rustic. 31⁄2in (9cm) Size D. and bay leaves. cylinder Weight and Shape 6lb (2. 3in (7. TASTING NOTES This cheese is marinated TASTING NOTES This cheese contains which is when the mountainside in a strong local brandy—eau de vie a wonderful mix of delicate Corsican pastures are at their most verdant. brown wrinkled crust and is the Pyrenees. Tomme à l’Ancienne Tomme de Brebis Tomme Caprine des Invented by a couple living near the Corse Pyrénées town of Banon. HOW TO ENJOY Team this rustic goat eau de vie or a local rosé wine.7kg). cloves. (“water of life”)—along with some aromas. 1in (3cm) Size D. This to create a delicate. FRANCE Provence-Alpes-Côte D’Azur FRANCE Corse FRANCE Midi-Pyrénées Age 2 weeks–2 months Age 3 months Age 6–8 weeks Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (100g). Serve with and exotic. the Basque cheese Ossau-Iraty. hard cheese is at its best when made during the spring and summer months. TASTING NOTES The taste is rich and FRANCE This combination gives it a wonderful buttery.5kg). or a Faugères. 7in (18cm). It is similar to its excellent ewe’s-milk cheese. 6kg). but with a of aromas and ﬂavors for which it thick layer of marc. fruity Savoie wine or richer with a mellow white wine. wheel Weight and Shape 3–6lb (1. fruity Savoie wines or a regional wines. This similarity is not surprising is renowned. Poitou-Charentes FRANCE Rhône-Alpes Age 8–16 weeks Age Minimum 3 months Age 1–2 months Weight and Shape Various Weight and Shape 8lb (3. which is a generic It is produced by just one farmer on the for the cheeses or “tommes” of Savoie. Size Various Size D. the generic name de Savoie family. name for Savoie cheeses that differ small Island of Ré. a light. with its ﬂavoring of mountain herbs. is a guarantee of quality.35–2. It has an herbaceous or farmyard milky to nutty with a rich savory tang island. from producer to producer. with TASTING NOTES The ﬂavor ranges from FRANCE a sea breeze tang that is derived from mild and milky to nutty with a savory TASTING NOTES It varies from mild and the Atlantic Ocean surrounding the tang. walnuts. and season to season. Barthélémy Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various . varies from producer to producer.Tomme de Chartreux Tomme de Chèvre des Tomme de Savoie Chartreux is a member of the Tomme Charentes Tomme de Savoie.7kg). Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Ile de Ré. aroma. The rind is hard and compact. a Muscat. HOW TO ENJOY Serve lightly grilled on HOW TO ENJOY Try with fresh fruit and crusty bread with apples. after wine pressing. such as Mondeuse. or has characteristics reminiscent of the white wine to develop the complexity spices such as cumin. because the family makers of this cheese originate from Switzerland. 2–3in 91 (5–8cm) Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Cow Producer Schmidhauser Dairy Producer M. TASTING NOTES The ﬂavor is rich. 7–12in (18–30cm). near La Rochelle. week with a mix of brine and local Some may be ﬂavored with herbs. A label showing four red hearts and a pleasant barnyard aroma. such as Try with light. This cheese. or aged under a Swiss Raclette (see p241). H. This goat cheese is washed twice a village to village. lively Mondeuse or Les Abymes. 21⁄2in (6cm) round Milk Cow Milk Goat Size D. H. the residue left bite. 12in (30cm). or HOW TO ENJOY Excellent baked or broiled. FRANCE Alex. until modern aromatic. and mottled with and covered with dark gray and pinks and yellow. warm summers. the chèvre. rounds. It is also an integral part of chèvre salad. cylinder Size D. chefs across the 92 world have assumed that any goat cheese can be used. herbaceous taste typical of As the cheese matures. or fruity Alpine and Saanen goats are the breeds whose red wines of the Loire make the best milk is used to make Sainte-Maure. light rosés. but Sainte. wrinkles will become deeper and more pronounced. reddish molds. aromatic like all the Loire chèvres. beginning of November. companion drinks. with thick rings grilled on slices of crusty bread bringing out its rich. Sadly. aromatic. They include six AOC cheeses— milk. lush pastures. who also left behind a lasting legacy of cheesemaking. They are all dense. The high rainfall. Sainte-Maure de Touraine AOC A CLOSER LOOK Like most aged fresh cheeses. 7in (18cm) Milk Goat Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Producer Various . Saracens. a high yield of excellent. the times referred to simply as le long Loire goat cheeses. is one of the most popular. Crottin Easter and All Saints Day at the de Chavignol (p53). it becomes more logs. develop the musky goat taste The rind is dusted with ash and that many people ﬁnd distasteful until covered with tufted blue molds. slightly undeniable classics. “goat cheeses. L. Valençay (p96). FRANCE woodlands. all aged fresh goat cheeses are measured. who will sell it at varying stages of Today. The crisp whites. Sainte- Goats were introduced to the Loire in the 8th century by the Maure is best when allowed to age gracefully in the hands of an afﬁneur. TASTING NOTES The wood ash They are made in every conceivable provides a stark contrast against the shape from tiny buttons. cylinders. the surface becomes deeply wrinkled patches of gray. and Sainte-Maure. and rolling HOW TO ENJOY Its unusual hills of the Loire provide the perfect shape makes it an attractive environment for the goats to produce addition to a cheese board. France’s ubiquitous salad. pears to bricks. but in fact chèvre refers solely to the Loire-style goat cheeses. chèvre. FRANCE Centre and Poitou Charentes Age 10–28 days Weight and Shape 9oz (250g). It should not. As the molds develop. bells. and pure white. slightly grainy interior. nutty side. wide rivers. Pouligny-Saint. Pierre (p78). The best are made between Chabichou du Poitou (p48). and pyramids. Selle-sur-Cher (p87).” of the Loire are perceived by ripeness depending on the tastes cheese lovers around the world as the benchmark against which of the clientèle. 11⁄2in (4cm). and the lemony fresh. however. nutty ﬂavor intensiﬁes to a more Maure de Touraine. the familiar white velvet of Penicillium candidum. to comply with the AOC rules. a delicate The straw inside is placed blue powderpuff-like mold that The cheese’s texture is there by hand and shows takes over from the white mold. It must be at least 10 days old when sold. moist young curd. You can also use it to pick the cheese up. white. ﬁrm. SHAPING The soft. wet. the cheese starts to lose moisture. a soft thin wrinkly rind develops. that the cheese has been made by an artisan producer. fragile curds achieved by coagulation are ladled into log-shaped molds to drain and take shape. within 12 days. only the ash covers the bright. The surface is encased with a dusty blue-gray mold. but it will usually collapse into large chunks. THE STRAW The use of the straw (paille) indicates that the cheese was made by an artisan producer. almost brittle. FRANCE THE ASH The logs are sprinkled with a mix of salt and wood ash. Initially. Halved log then. . and the surface attracts a variety of micro- ﬂora—ﬁrst. 93 AGING Gradually. Serve with cider as Chinon or Menetou Salon.35kg).5cm) Size D. Produced cheeses produced here. H. gray-brown crust. and the supple paste FRANCE TASTING NOTES This cheese has a mix TASTING NOTES The slightly moist. but a tasty accompaniment. 2in (5cm) 94 Milk Ewe Milk Goat Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Various Producer Abbaye d’Echourgnac .5cm). dry. round Weight and Shape 11⁄2lb (675g). FRANCE Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Dordogne. of delicate aromas and herbaceous and sticky paste ﬁlls the mouth with balanced ﬂavor. It has subtle and structured aromas. round Weight and Shape 101⁄2oz (300g). H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. ﬂavors. Tommette refers ripen this artisan cheese. 41⁄2in (11cm). the nuns at the Abbaye The high altitudes of this region This rarely produced. liquor gives the rind an attractive dark brown color. 5in (11. Tommette Brebis des Tommette de Chèvre Trappe d’Echourgnac Alpes des Bauges Since 1868. 3in (7. round Size D. evocative of Alpine meadows. TASTING NOTES Washing with walnut use of ewe’s milk. it is well example is made in small quantities simply means a small cheese that is worth seeking out. usually made on small farm in The “Brebis” of its name signiﬁes the mountain regions. or a red or rosé from Cahors. It has a hard. Aquitaine Age 2–4 months Age 2 months Age 2 months Weight and Shape 3lb (1. This particular to a small tomme—a French term that only in small quantities. full-bodied white wine homemade ravioli. 4in (10cm). authentic goat d’Echourgnac have been using milk produce glorious pastureland that cheese originates in the Bauges from neighboring farms to make and inﬂuences the wonderful ﬂavors of mountains in Savoie. and is distinguished by its brown rind. mountain ﬂavors. Serve with HOW TO ENJOY Team this goat cheese is especially good for stufﬁng into a fruity and full-bodied red wine. HOW TO ENJOY It becomes runny and HOW TO ENJOY Gooseberry jam makes slightly stringy when cooked. of Condrieux. soft has a smokier taste and a simple. such with a fruity. H. ball Weight and Shape 14oz (400g). It resumed in the 1980s near the seaside origins by being covered with a ﬁne is one of the few Corsican ewe’s-milk city of Marans. It is best grasses on which the sheep graze. a character in the tales of the creamy with small holes scattered French writer Alphonse Daudet. round Size H. comes from the shape of the famous these highly scented and much- goat’s horn belonging to Monsieur prized mushrooms. is renowned for its trufﬂes. through the pale yellow paste. Serve with a light white enjoyed with full-bodied. TASTING NOTESSupple. smooth. a light fruity red. dusted with white and gray mold and distinctive triangular shape. and Seguin. try it two weeks. was This hand-shaped cheese reﬂects its exudes a pungent barnyardy aroma. The curious name layer of black charcoal to resemble cheeses made with pasteurized milk. such as Coteaux Varois. W. structured HOW TO ENJOY Try with dry white Loire wine. 31⁄2in (9cm). or with red wines.5cm) Size Various Size D. 11⁄2in (4cm) Milk Goat Milk Goat Milk Ewe 95 Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Various Producer Pierucci Dairy . 1in (2. Corse or a 12-year-old Frontignan. 41⁄2in (11cm). with its region. triangular Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (100g). After a halt of several years. H. orange rind that is of this fresh goat cheese. production Valensole. such as a Muscat du Cap wines such as Sancerre or Chinon. but can be cured for one or HOW TO ENJOY For pure luxury.Trois Cornes de Truffe de Valensole U Bel Fiuritu Vendée The area around the village of This washed-rind cheese has a thick. Its sweet FRANCE like with a delicate lemony freshness aromatic ﬂavor reﬂects the Corsican TASTING NOTES The paste is bold and rich and a hint of herbs on the ﬁnish. Corse Age 1 month Age Around 2 weeks Age 4–10 weeks Weight and Shape 8oz (225g). FRANCE Poitou-Charentes FRANCE Provence-Alpes-Côte D’Azur FRANCE Venaco. TASTING NOTES Soft and almost mousse. in the Haute-Provence slightly sticky. landscape and the wild herbs and with a bittersweet ﬂavor. eaten fresh. stirred into pasta with a ﬁne shaving of HOW TO ENJOY U Bel Fiuritu can be fresh trufﬂes. such as Beaujolais. 1–11⁄2in Milk Ewe (3. a fruity red wine HOW TO ENJOY Valençay is delicious HOW TO ENJOY Spread sparingly on bread makes the perfect accompaniment. especially Sancerre. fall. pastures grazed by the sheep. 11⁄2in (4cm) truncated pyramid Size D. Napoleon became angry was once made. 21⁄2–3in (6–7cm) base. Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz (500g). this is one of the thanks to its warm climate. the paste is dense farmyard aroma. moist paste and yet soft and sticky with a full-bodied a mild and slightly nutty ﬂavor. 11⁄2in (4cm) 96 Milk Ewe Size D. creating a truncated when produced between spring and TASTING NOTES This semi-soft cheese is shape. 21⁄2–3in (H. Valençay has been AOC. Sharp and tasty. HOW TO ENJOY Corsicans often eat this cheese with ﬁg jam. herbaceous ﬂavor with vegetal overtones. The repeated washing leaves TASTING NOTES This natural-rinded TASTING NOTES Beneath its thin and FRANCE a lingering meaty tang and pungent cheese is covered in salted charcoal sticky orange rind. defeat and angrily chopped off the top washed-rind fermier cheese and is best with his sword. paired with all fruity and lively white with herbs. FRANCE Corse FRANCE Centre region FRANCE Corse Age 2–16 weeks Age 5 weeks Age 3–4 months Weight and Shape 14oz (400g). round Weight and Shape 7–9oz (200–250g). H. garlic. on seeing it. round Size D. It has a soft. or olive oil for an wines of the Berry and Touraine excellent snack. the milk beneﬁting from the lush tender and buttery and has a complex protected since 1998.5–4cm) top. an island renowned made in the shape of a pyramid. but village in central Corsica where it for its unique and ﬂavorful cheeses. It is a breeds. 6–7cm) Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Goat Producer Various Producer Various Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Producer Various . and very spicy taste. 41⁄2in (11cm). it is regions of France. robust local because it reminded him of his Egyptian best-known Corsican cheeses. 4in (10cm). U Pecurinu Valençay AOC Venaco U Pecurinu is a dense washed-rind It is said that this cheese was once Named after a small picturesque cheese from Corsica. and wild and diverse grazing. best with big reds like Gigondas. H. ashes. 5cm). is soaked. Surprisingly enough. black coffee. Vieux. he established his TASTING NOTES The rind is orange and well-respected dairy in 1977. it has a rich and thin. 5in (12cm). 2in Milk Goat 11⁄2in (4cm) (5cm) 97 Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Milk Cow Milk Cow Producer Xavier Cornet Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Various . the taste is not as pungent as the scent. square Weight and Shape 11⁄2lb (675g). slightly sticky pale cheese changes according to its age: it mellow ﬂavor. part of the Limousin—which lays odorous cheeses in the world. barely formed. can be very sweet or spicy but is always and slightly dry texture. the nickname of this cheese is Puant de claim to 3. H. but this rural idyll allows farmers such not aggressive or overpowering. 21⁄2in (6cm) Size L. or even light wines— wine. H. Size L. times during the production process. H. the paste rubbery with small holes. The unadulterated countryside of Despite its strong aroma. Limousin FRANCE Nord-Pas-de-Calais FRANCE Nord-Pas-de-Calais Age 3–6 weeks Age 7–9 weeks Age 3–4 months Weight and Shape 5oz (140g). orange-colored rind and supple. for cheesemaking. including the Corrèze itself. instead. full of subtle ﬂavors. FRANCE Corrèze. 3in (8cm). W. the taste is It is similar to Maroilles (see p68). in brine as Xavier Cornet to indulge a passion and aged for longer. round Weight and Shape 1lb 5oz (600g). dense. rather than washed.” river.Ventadour Vieux-Boulogne Vieux-Lille Ventadour originates from Corrèze— Considered to be one of the most Once eaten down in the pits by miners. salty taste with a FRANCE TASTING NOTES The taste of this goat is not sharp. square Size D.100 miles (5. full-bodied red wines. such as HOW TO ENJOY Eat with a white Loire a good-quality beer to Champagne or beer.000km) of Boulogne is washed with beer several Lille. or “the smelly cheese of Lille. 4in (10. with a delicate HOW TO ENJOY It is too strong for most hint of goat. such as Sancerre. dishes and is best enjoyed with crusty HOW TO ENJOY Serve it with juniper bread and a variety of drinks—from berries and a variety of drinks. Vieux-Boulogne sometimes piquant. TASTING NOTES It has a very powerful. because of its strong barnyard aroma. W. 5in (12cm). 4in (10.5cm). washed-rind cheese is with a thin and fragile rind. such as Madiran wine. H. HOW TO ENJOY Crabotin is excellent eaten HOW TO ENJOY A hearty winter cheese. are including them. TASTING NOTES The elastic rind is fragile. 6in (15cm). coming off the sea. made from young. however. between tarragon. beer-washed TASTING NOTES The high cream content rind is covered with paprika. Originating in southern Corsica. More Cheeses Abbaye de Troisvaux Bastelicaccia of France This is one of several cheeses that are produced at the Abbaye de Troisvaux. dome Size D. H. wine. while the TASTING NOTES This delicious cheese has gives it a very rich taste that leaves 98 paste is ivory white and ﬂecked with a soft paste. very remote areas. goats). the more character photograph them. FRANCE Nord-Pas-de-Calais FRANCE Corse Age 5–6 weeks Age 2–8 weeks Weight and Shape 17oz (480g).5cm) . The cheese is washed with brine cliffs of Cap Blanc-Nez. made during the winter months. a light and fruity red wine. and has a more robust ﬂavor. 1in (2. such as cheese board. examples of French cheese. wine. but as they washed with beer during maturation. cloves. imperfect Maroilles from the Occitan language. and parsley. during maturation. Bastelicaccia is a ewe’s-milk cheese This semi-soft. The fresher it has proved impossible to a yellow-orange color from being and younger it is. with fresh crusty bread and fruit HOW TO ENJOY This is delicious eaten because it is strong. round Weight and Shape 14oz (400g). a long ﬁnish in the mouth. resulting in are important and interesting without any bitterness. Bastelicaccia longer. a Champagne or a fruity white Cahors or Brouilly. Team it with beer. spicy fruity ﬂavor. and very creamy. or a shot of gin. H. producing a Boulogne-sur-Mer and Calais. distinctive-looking orange rind. Serve it with light red a Beaujolais or a Bourgogne. it has. The name is derived A beautiful and rare heavy-cream. ﬂavor is reminiscent of the breezes cheese in both ﬂavor and aroma. round Weight and Shape 1lb (450g).5cm) Size Various Milk Cow Milk Goat Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Flavor-added Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Soft white Producer Various Producer Various Producer Saint Godeleine Farm (M. It goes very well with with bread and honey. The salty herbs. As a result. 10in (25cm). HOW TO ENJOY Team this cheese with it is an impressive addition to any savor. Boulette de Papleux is goat’s milk cheese. such as Mont Louis from the Loire valley. HOW TO ENJOY As this is a rare cheese. TASTING NOTES Its deep red. 4in (10cm) Size D. 11⁄2in (4cm) Milk Cow Milk Ewe Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Abbaye de Troisvaux Producer Various FRANCE Boulette de Papleux Crabotin Crémet du Cap A variation on Boulette d’Avesnes This is an undeservedly unknown Blanc-Nez (see p40). 5in (13cm). It is a very strong. we a mild aroma. simply means caprine (relating to takes its name from the white clay It is then mashed with pepper. It is made based on Trappist-style cheeses like using a little rennet. hot. Most producers. very full-bodied wines. 3in (7. H. only available seasonally or which is also a washed-rind cheese but because they are produced in it is molded into a lozenge shape. smooth paste. FRANCE Nord-Pas-de-Calais FRANCE Aquitaine and Midi-Pyrénées FRANCE Wiere Effroy. such as a Chinon. Another of these makes the curdling last longer and rare—either because they are cheeses is Losange de Saint-Paul. and seek out. So read. this addition The following cheeses are Trappe de Beval. age The paste is smooth and creamy. is ﬁne. Nord-Pas-de-Calais Age 2–3 months Age 6 weeks Age 3 weeks Weight and Shape 7oz (200g) Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz (500g). It goes well with preserves. and a very goaty aroma. crabot white-rinded farmhouse cheese that cheeses rather than from fresh curd. Bernard) . creates a creamy. TASTING NOTES Old-school Bastelicaccia. drum Size D. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. a mild and quite creamy. this newly developed goat cheese dark green veining that looks like Vosges mountains in Lorraine. such as Mondeuse. white. almost eye-wateringly strong ﬂavor. or persille in French. Greggo Producer Various FRANCE Nîmois Persillé des Aravis Tomme de Bargkas An interesting addition to a cheese The name comes from the irregular Tomme de Bargkas comes from the board. 21⁄2in (6cm) Milk Goat Milk Goat Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various Producer Various Producer M. such as a Faugères from preferably from the Mont Ventoux of Vaucluse. 2in (5cm) Size D. 1in (2. H. but with an ﬂavors and aromas. FRANCE Languedoc-Roussillon FRANCE Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Vosges. in Banon. cone Size Various Size D. one producer. It is a Ventoux. square Weight and Shape 1oz (30g). almost runny paste TASTING NOTESThis is a tender and used for this cheese gives it a very around the edge as it ripens. cheese with black sourdough bread. round Size D. It has very unusual shape. production process. representing the forest. Alsace-Lorraine Age 3 weeks Age 2 months Age 6 months Weight and Shape 13⁄4oz (50g). Mascare has a mild lactic to nutty TASTING NOTES The fermentation process ﬂavor and a soft. cheese to your cheese board and serve alongside a glass of a full-bodied red lively red. HOW TO ENJOY Best enjoyed on its own aged cheddar and is best when made in with a red wine of Costières de Nîmes summer and fall. the famous mountain that once a favorite of the mining community. TASTING NOTES Beneath its soft. HOW TO ENJOYLocals often eat this or Pic St. elastic and has a few holes. HOW TO ENJOY Good with all full-bodied Team it with a Bourgogne. giving the rind a Aravis Valley in Haute-Savoie. It is molded into one of the strongest of them all is Fort a thin. Loup. 2in (5cm). and the lower half is black three months. Pommard. round Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg). creamy (with ash). 12in (30cm). so it is rarely found area. 6in (15cm) Size D. HOW TO ENJOY At its best when served simply with fresh crusty bread from HOW TO ENJOY Add this distinctive HOW TO ENJOY Eat this spread on bread the local market along with a fruity. cylinder Weight and Shape 3lb (1. soft aroma and has a ﬂavor 99 any accompaniments. H. Minoux . H. seasonal cheese and is only made by dominates the skyline in the Luberon who would team it with local beer. similar cheeses are made in nearby Munster cheese. valleys: Persillé des Grand-Bornand TASTING NOTES Nîmois has a pronounced and Persillé des Thônes. such as Beaujolais-Villages. rind. smooth cheese with real farmland creamy. Because of this. silky texture. FRANCE Nord-Pas-de-Calais FRANCE Provence-Alpes-Côte D’Azur FRANCE Provence-Alpes-Côte D’Azur Age 3 months Age 3 weeks Age 10 days Weight and Shape Various Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (100g). It is made by soaking the pungent outside its local area.4kg). This cow’s-milk cheese was in a decorative chestnut leaf. and sharp.5cm). This Barg means mountain and kass Costières de Nîmes as part of the goat’s-milk cheese is produced in the means cheese in the local dialect. Mont Ventoux. and Chinon. Châteauneuf-du-Pape. such as red wines. It gives off it should be eaten on its own. alongside a local full-bodied red wine wine. or Durance area. TASTING NOTES The paste is soft.5cm) Size Various Milk type Cow Milk Goat Milk Goat Classiﬁcation Various Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Producer Various Producer Fromagerie de Banon – M. The top half of the cheese is white. or a Rhône wine. 3in (7. or rosé wine. and powerful ﬂavor. Two It is here that farmers also produce distinctive dark red color. It has a texture similar to aftertaste. without TASTING NOTES It has a very savory a light. or an eau de vie. H. such as a Gigondas or Languedoc. representing the limestone part of the local Maroilles cheese in brine for mountain.Fort de Béthune Mascare Mont Ventoux Cheeses of the Nord-Pas-de-Calais are This goat’s-milk cheese originates in This goat cheese is unique for its known for their strong ﬂavors—and the provençal Alps. is washed with the local red wine of parsley. 4in (10cm). natural rind that is wrapped a cone shape to represent Mont de Béthune. spicy ﬂavor with a strong of hazelnut with a slightly acidic aftertaste. Bitto★. VATICAN Caprino Stagionato. Casolet. Taleggio★. Taleggio★. GULF OF Trentingrana★. ADRIATIC SEA CITY Mascarpone. Marzolino ITALY Formaggio di Fossa di Sogliano★ PRODUCED THROUGHOUT THE COUNTRY Caciocavallo. LOMBARDIA Bagoss. Pecorino di Pienza and buffalo) is unrivaled in any other country except France. Italico. Robiola di Roccaverano★. Formaggio Ubriaco. sheep. Italico. GIULIA Morlacco Quartirolo Lombardo★. N Caciotta. VENETO Carnia. Paglierine Murazzano★. Foglie de Bernardo. Valle D’Aosta Fromadzo★ Latteria Turnaria. Basajo Latteria Turnaria. VALLE D’AOSTA Fontina★ Ossolano Valle D’Aosta Fromadzo★ Stelvio or Stilfser★ Toma. Valtellina Casera★ Fontal Bastardo del Grappa. Piave★ FRIULI-VENEZIA Parmigiano-Reggiano★. Ubriaco Casolet. Gorgonzola★. goat. Pusteria Gorgonzola ★. Tome or PIEMONTE Tomino Bettelmatt. Spressa della Giudicarie★ Toma Piemontese★. Dobbiaco. Grana Padano★. Bela Badia. Castagno. Lodigiano Formai di Mut dell’Alta Val Brembana★. Formaggio di Fossa di Sogliano★. Taleggio★ ITALY Parmigiano-Reggiano★ Squacquerone di Romagna Cheese has been an integral part of the Caccio Faenum Italian lifestyle since before the time of the Romans. Provolone . Salva Cremasco★ Asiago★. Robiola della Valsassina Castelmagno★. Agrì di Valtorta TRENTINO-ALTO ADIGE Italico. D’ELBA UMBRIA Some of the oldest and most precious Caciotta artisan cheeses come under the umbrella MARCHE of a Slow Food Presidium. SAN MARINO breadth of the varieties (cow. Provolone Valpadana★. Puzzone di Moena Robiola d’Alba. Formaggio Branzi. and are protected by ISOLA the European Union PDO program. The depth and Pecorino Toscano★. Caprino Fresco. VENICE Ricotta Affumicata. Bauernkäse Lagundo. Latteria Turnaria. who were responsible for TOSCANA introducing hard cheese making to many Pecorino Romano★. Raschera★. Pannarello LIGURIAN SEA EMILIA-ROMAGNA Casatella Trevigiana★. Pannerone Formaggella del Luinese★. Casciotta d’Urbino★ Many of the cheeses are still made with rare. Silter Bra★. Crescenza. indigenous breeds and in Alpine pastures. Almkäse. Crutin. European countries. LIGURIA Strachìtunt★. Monte Veronese★. Ricotta Affumicata Montasio★. Vezzena Sola (Sora or Soera). Cacioricotta. Ricotta Romana★ Toscanello MOLISE Caciocavallo Silano★ Canestrato Pugliese★ TYRRHENIAN SEA Pecorino Laticauda PUGLIA Burrata CAMPANIA Caciocavallo Silano★. Caciocavallo Silano★. Vastedda della Valle del Belice★ MEDITERRANEAN SEA 50 miles 50 km . Produced only here Scamorza Produced throughout the region BASILICATA Caciocavallo Silano★. Piacentinu Ennese★. DOC. Ricotta di Bufala Campana★. Cacioricotta. DOP. Primo Sale. Mozzarella di Bufala★. Canestrato di Vacca and di Pecora. Pecorino Dauno Key Mozzarella di Bufala★. Stracciata. Pecorino Sardo★. Calcagno. ABRUZZO LAZIO SARDEGNA Caciocavallo Podolico. Canestrato di Vacca or di Pecora. Pecorino Siciliano★. Canestrato di Moliterno★. Caciocavallo Podolico. Ragusano★. Caciocavallo Occhiato. Caciocavallo Silano★. or PDO cheeses Provolone del Monaco★. Pecorino or Canastrato Crotonese SICILIA Calcagno. Pecorino di Filiano★ CALABRIA Caciocavallo Podolico. PGI. ★ AOC. Fiore Sardo★. 16–20in (40–50cm). 14–151⁄2in (35–40cm). 41⁄2–6in Size D.ITALY Almkäse PDO Asiago PDO Bagòss Deriving its name from the German Made only within ofﬁcially recognized Bagòss is the local nickname for the Alm. then of ﬂoral pastures and hay. Wrap in thin slices of sautéed eggplant HOW TO ENJOY Perfect with a Cabernet HOW TO ENJOY Use as a table cheese. this cheese takes its residents of Bagolino. 3–4in Size D. HOW TO ENJOY It grates and melts well. until they are an ivory-white to deep holes. but on brushed every day for three months and is semi-soft with irregularly shaped average is at least 24–36 months old. crumbly to the Early fresh green notes combine with a bite. saffron. and serve with olive bread and a white Sauvignon. Made from raw part-cream. slight almond taste and a tangy ﬁnish. Asiago d’Allevo is hard and made During aging. it has a ﬂoral fairly salty. The It is available as two types: Asiago pastures. ﬂat wheel wheel ﬂat wheel 102 Size D. ITALY Trentino-Alto Adige ITALY Trentino-Alto Adige ITALY Lombardia Age 6–8 months Age 20–40 days Age Over 12 months Weight and Shape 15lb 7oz–31lb Weight and Shape 241⁄4–33lb (11–15kg). this hard cheese must be cheeses are turned. part-skim raw milk cheese name from the eponymous plateau. Asiago Pressato is aromatic. with raw linseed oil. and slightly piquant. meaning “Alpine pasture. Weight and Shape 30–481⁄2lb (14–22kg). Asiago d’Allevo is drier. red wine like Amarone. aroma reminiscent of Alpine meadows. H. H. which gives the holes or “eyes. the cheeses are brushed straw-yellow and dotted with small using milk from mountain pastures. spiced ﬂavor. (7–14kg). 12–16in (30–40cm). scraped. Try with a robust Schiava Grigia. 5–51⁄2in (8–10cm) (11–15cm) (12–14cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various Producer Various Producer Various . milk from cattle grazing on mountain is one of the oldest in Bolzano. H. from Friuli’s Colli Orientali. and Pressato is made in low-lying pastures matured for at least 12 months. and has a savory.” rind an ocher brown color. or grate over pasta. TASTING NOTES Springy and moist in Firm with sweet rather texture.” this production areas. TASTING NOTES Has strong aromas of I T A LY TASTING NOTES than sharp high notes. or Torcolato Maculan. the open-textured. H. herbs. Weight and Shape 17lb 10oz–22lb Size D. H. found only in the Adorned with luscious gold raisins. herby aroma and tastes sweet HOW TO ENJOY Enjoy with a glass of yet salty with an earthy ﬁnish. along with a Cabernet HOW TO ENJOY Used traditionally as lush ﬂavors. medium eyes. 3in (8cm) 103 (2–8cm) Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Flavor-added Milk Cow. it is good with polenta and as a ﬁlling for agnolotti pasta. straw-colored similar to those for making Gruyère. and ewe Classiﬁcation Semi-soft and hard Producer La Casearia Carpenedo Classiﬁcation Semi-soft or hard Producer Various Producer Various . a table cheese. from being made using a mix of sheep’s.5–5kg). a sweet Sicilian wine. red-rinded cheese comes from a herb created this blue ewes’-milk cheese. high pastures of Val’d’Ossola. which intensiﬁes as it matures. availability. Bettelmatt is yellow rind with burnt brown blotches. Passito di Pantelleria or late-harvest HOW TO ENJOY Eat with semolina or Riesling and fresh ﬁgs to absorb the potato gnocchi. Treviso ITALY Veneto ITALY Piedmonte Age 5–6 months Age 6 months Age 2–6 months Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg). It has a ﬂoral aroma TASTING NOTES Sometimes dotted with I T A LY softening the peppery bite of the blue. Franc or a sparkling Chardonnay. and cow’s milk. and a full ﬂavor with notes of wild irregular. made in summer from the raw milk of TASTING NOTES The wild honey aroma brown mountain cattle. goat. 8in (20cm). but it it spends 3 weeks soaking in Passito di goat’s. Grappa during the summer months. It has a dark mustard. drum Weight and Shape 51⁄2–11lb (2. paste darkens with age and has small making it crumbly and soggy and eyes throughout. blue-streaked cheese. depending on could be just the quality of grazing that Pantelleria. creates this unique taste. H. 3⁄4–3in Size D. buttery. it has a strong. 10–12in (25–30cm). best known Made in mountain dairy huts around Legend has it that the ﬂavor of this for innovative cheeses like Umbriaco. ﬂat wheel Milk Ewe Size D. using methods and sweetness of the wine seeps into TASTING NOTES The light. ITALY Forli. 3in (8cm) wheel (8–10kg). 18–211⁄2in (45–55cm). this cheese gained the name “Bastardo” known as mottolina.Basajo Bastardo del Grappa Bettelmatt La Casearia Carpenedo. then removed and rubbed with olive oil and sometimes vinegar to create this waxy. smooth rind with a dusting of brown and white molds. (See p110) .I T A LY 104 CANESTRATO MOLITERNO The curd is pressed by hand into rush baskets. this TASTING NOTES Bra Tenero is soft. Serve with Valcalepio Rosso. ﬂat wheel with concave edge (5–9 kg). while Bra Duro has and milky ﬂavor has a slight aroma of I T A LY develops into unmistakably nutty notes a delicious tang that can almost sting grass. and nutty. a ﬂat pasta. small buckwheat fritters. generic Bra is made brown mountain cattle. and as pizzoccheri. When aged. and over pasta. 12–16in (30–40cm). (8–25kg). H. or use Bra Duro grated (polenta with cheese and butter). 20in (50cm). Bra Duro a pale yellow paste laced with holes stores and can last for ten years. ITALY Lombardia ITALY Piemonte ITALY Lombardia Age 70 days–1 year Age 1–2 months (Tenero). TASTING NOTES When young. 16–18in (40–45cm). famous Originating in the village of the same River. A variety of formai de mut. 6–9 months (Duro) Age 1–7 months Weight and Shape 17lb 10oz–55lb Weight and Shape 11–19lb 13oz Weight and Shape 11–33lb (5–15kg). TASTING NOTES When young. dell’Uccellone or white Gavi dei Gavi. or goat’s milk. H. months of maturation. and encased in a yellow-brown crust. Serve with red Bricco with gnocchi made from chestnut ﬂour. tangy. tastes stronger. 3–31⁄2in Size D. H. ﬂat wheel ﬂat wheel Size D. 31⁄2–5in (9–12cm) Size D. the sweet cheese has a mild. HOW TO ENJOY Eat Bra Tenero as HOW TO ENJOY Used in polenta taragna HOW TO ENJOY Use in local dishes such a main dish. this cheese is made in the for the cheese festival held by the Slow name. is ripened for at least 180 days.Bitto PDO Bra PDO Branzi Named after the fast-ﬂowing Bitto Named after the town of Bra. sciatt. This and can contain small amounts of ewe’s summer. fragrant ﬂavor that and aromatic. but now it is produced all is where the maturation process begins. Branzi cheese uses the milk of summer months in mountain dairies or Food organization. it has but it is completed in the valley cheese cheese aged for 45–60 days. In the past it calecc—unroofed stone refuges that are from cow’s milk from lowland dairies was made only in Alpine huts in the covered with canvas when in use. it can be grated and and caramel hints after at least six the tongue with its intensity. Bra Tenero is a semi-soft year. 31⁄2in (9cm) 105 Milk Cow and goat (7–9cm) Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Hard Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Various . mild. those barrels. buttery wrapped in spring hay. TASTING NOTES During the ﬁrst 30 days TASTING NOTES Eat it fresh at room TASTING NOTES The young cheese is of maturation. and a Pinot Grigio or Ribolla. tomatoes. or Burrata means “buttery” in Italian. and a sparkling white wine. and temperature. sphere (1. or eat with a HOW TO ENJOY Grate over your favorite salty cured ham. of the Italian cheese-making technique stretching technique used to produce it However. wrapped in hay and aged in buffalo milk. 41⁄2–8in (11–20cm). goat. It has a full. or “stretched curd. which imbues buttery. after 90 days it becomes I T A LY aroma and tastes mild and sweet. differing only in the their Formaggio di Fossa Sogliano PDO. Emilia-Romagna ITALY All over Age 24–48 hours Age 2–4 months Age From a few days until one year Weight and Shape 9oz–1lb 2oz Weight and Shape 3lb3oz–41⁄2lb Weight and Shape 21⁄4–22lb (1–10kg). D. cow’s. The result was this sheep produced using ewe’s. and ewe Producer Various Producer L’Antica Cascina Classiﬁcation Semi-soft or hard Producer Various . local recipe. and olive oil. the consistency of very soft mozzarella.5–2kg).” and the fact that burrata contains a ancient wine barrels in the cellars of Mainly made in southern Italy. Serve with Primitivo pasta dish or serve with pears. 3–5in (7–12cm) Size Various Size Various. this cheese certainly lives up to its name. there ﬁlling made from fresh pieces of Villa Corte led to the revival of an old are many regional variations. and it can also be smoked. the aroma and taste of the wildﬂowers and grasses of the Alpine meadows. Milk Cow Milk Ewe H. it is mozzarella soaked in heavy cream. Burrata Caccio Faenum Caciocavallo A pasta ﬁlata cheese very similar L’Antiqua Cascina are best known for This semi-soft cheese is an archetype to mozzarella. the discovery of dozens of pasta ﬁlata. HOW TO ENJOY Serve with rustic bread HOW TO ENJOY Toss with avocado. ITALY Puglia ITALY Castellina. green di Manduria or Moscato di Trani. milky. goat’s. 9in (23cm) (pictured) Classiﬁcation Fresh ClassiﬁcationHard Milk Cow. and cheese. round sphere 106 Size D. ﬁgs. with the nutty sweetness of the cheese with pungent with oily and gamey ﬂavors. buffalo. (250–500g). it is sweet. It is produced aging. Size Various. It is great alongside Aglianico a main dish or in stuffed pasta. di Melissa or Rosato di Scavigna. oval or sphere oval or sphere Weight and Shape 21⁄4–51⁄2lb (1–2. Age 1 month–1 year Weight and Shape 17lb 10oz–261⁄2lb (8–12kg). Calabria. mountain pastures. Molise. 12in (30cm). D. Basically sweet. H. for those olive oil. di Saracena. Its taste sweet than tangy. appears light-straw-colored when young and brown when aged. in a HOW TO ENJOY When the cheese is salad. Campania. It who like sweet tastes. D. HOW TO ENJOY Eat on its own. 71⁄2in (19cm).Caciocavallo Occhiato Caciocavallo Podolico Caciocavallo Silano This classic pasta ﬁlata cheese has Semi-hard when young. TASTING NOTES Typically generous with TASTING NOTES Extremely aromatic with propionic aroma. simply serve dressed with HOW TO ENJOY Traditionally used as Aglianico Sorrentino wine or. made using the milk of well known during the 14th century graze on the mountain pastures Podolian cattle that graze on Appenine and continues to be popular now. a Lacryma del Volture di Paternoster or Moscato balances happily with Greco Bianco Christi del Vesuvio. Pair it with well aged. Campania. 31⁄2in (9cm) (pictured) Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Hard Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Semi-soft or hard Producer Various Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Various . ITALY Campania ITALY Lazio. and Calabria ITALY Basilicata. it is elastic when vegetal cues of mountain herbs and TASTING NOTES A typical stirred paste young. H. Age 1 month–1 year and Puglia Age 3–6 months Weight and Shape 41⁄2–61⁄2lb (2–3kg). It is a typical Caciocavallo semi-soft cow’s milk cheese was already using milk of cattle that naturally cheese. 13in (33cm) (pictured) Milk Cow Size Various. D. it has a very with small and sparse eyes.5kg). citrusy and ﬂoral high solubility with persistent nutty is aromatic and sharply sweet with I T A LY hints are also present. and spicy hints. becoming pungent as it matures. as the occhio cheese hardens after four months of Originating in the Middle Ages. and friable when aged. milky and buttery cues when young. More ﬂowers. or with vegetables. this in the name suggests. It in Campania. this full-fat PDO plenty of round eyes. 6in (15cm) (pictured) various shapes (oval pictured) 107 Size Various. but it should never brown. or add to sauces and dips. Toss into salads with sun-dried ITALY Lombardia and Piedmont tomatoes. TASTING NOTES The uneven and erratically spread streaks and patches of blue mold impart a sharp. The most charming version is Today. producing more salt or in brine baths to save labor costs. Weeks later. or mascarpone and toasted pine nuts. Only those aroma. its musky with milk from designated areas. but is similar in strength.” as it was made in cheese. or even a rosé. It tastes creamier and sweeter than 108 Stilton. a robust red. melt-in-the-mouth texture. then encased in a wide belt made of thin wooden from the Italian word stracca. left family dairies and large factories. drum is exquisite drizzled with a little honey. 6–8in (15–20cm) Marsala. most Gorgonzola he repeated the procedure—and the has been made in factories using rest. Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Blue Producer Various . hoping to disguise traditional “two-day curd” method. though not as strong a ﬂavor. Gorgonzola PDO A CLOSER LOOK In 1970. spicy ﬂavor to the rich. is history. Even its name is seductive. creamy cheese. It Weight and Shape 13lb 4oz–281⁄2lb (6–13kg) . and with most sweet wines including H. the sides bulge like a I T A LY to the watery meadows of Lombardia. sharper. when ripe. Curious. unpasteurized milk and follow the The following day. he morning milking. then that the cheese had a greenish mold mixing it with the curd from the through the center. which is imprinted on into steaming pasta with a little cream the cheese.” folklore and legend. and its sweet. a consortium was created to Everything about Gorgonzola is sexy—its rustic yet elegant ensure that Gorgonzola was made appearance. strict regulations by around 40 small distracted by his young love. however. spicy tang. and slightly more salty. the fall when the exhausted cows Gorgonzola is made in large drums returned from the mountain pastures and. and a honey Age 3–6 months dressing. HOW TO ENJOY Dollop it onto The molds each bear the number of the thick wedges of walnut loaf or stir it individual producer. Size D. meaning “tired. he found naturally inoculated by mold. Since the mid- sampled it. rubbed and rolled in Stracchino di Gorgonzola. even bluing than the traditional slats and left to mature. 10–12in (25–30cm). he added the curd to the allowing the curd to become morning batch. It is that meet the tough standards are thought to be the ﬁrst blue cheese. as they say. Around where Gorgonzola was the main the edges. his mistake. a bundle of moist curd hanging A few artisan cheesemakers still use overnight on a hook in a damp cellar. riverbank ready to collapse. it can be slightly grayish— trading town for centuries. the cheese is Gorgonzola’s ﬁrst name was curd” method with the blue mold removed from the mold. kidney beans. and its origin is steeped in stamped with the consortium’s “G. its voluptuous. by approved producers. and found it so good that 1900s. derived added to the milk. as this indicates excessive drying and poor handling. pasteurized milk and the “one-day WOODEN BELT Once ﬁrm. Gorgonzola is made under the story of a careless youth who. whereas Roquefort is stronger. I T A LY 109 Drum. brown. FOIL WRAPPING To slow the further development of mold and prevent the cheese from drying out. encouraging the spread of the blue-green mold. called purgatory. and blue molds. quarter The sticky white rind is overlaid with a medley of orange. attain the consistency and high quality demanded by today’s market. gray. each one is wrapped in foil. The ivory white interior is paler than other blue-vein cheeses and Once exposed to air. This is carried out in a place MATURING Traditionally ripened in casere. . PIERCING AND GRADING At four weeks. each cheese is pierced with thick needles. A grader takes a sample of cheese to specially built storerooms to ensure that they check for even distribution of the blue mold. the blue mold grows almost translucent along the tunnels made by the piercing rods. the cheeses are now ripened in humidity. with ideal conditions for natural around 71ºF (22ºC) and up to 95 percent mold formation. red. where the cheese is kept at natural caves. soft texture. with cow. 8in (20cm). months. and nutty when made using becomes saltier. located a minimum of 1 black trufﬂes (Caciotta al Tartufo). then ripened in stores ﬂavors like peppercorns or shavings of salted. Weight and Shape 41⁄2–6lb (2–3kg). and. made by simply adding black peppercorns to Clotted using rennet from goat kids. and the sheep ﬂavor more distinct. Typically fresh curd. made with cow’s milk. with roasted peppers and use an older HOW TO ENJOY Delicious with slices of or pair with a young red wine like cheese for grating over pasta or apple when young. 12 months. Milky when TASTING NOTES Calcagno becomes grainy months old and is sweet and salty. The baskets leave behind /2 mile (700m) above sea level. 6in (16cm) (10–15cm) Classiﬁcation Various Milk Ewe Milk Ewe or goat Producer Various Classiﬁcation Flavor-added Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various Producer Various . and spicy. pungent. is very hard. is pungent and salty. aged over I T A LY sheep’s or goat’s milk. 4–6in 110 Milk Cow. glass of Aglianico del Volture Riserva. Rosso. H. 8–10in (20–25cm). ITALY All over ITALY Sardegna and Sicilia ITALY Basilicata Age From a few days to 2–3 months Age 3–10 months Age 2–18 months Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg). draining the cheeses in this hard cheese is molded and drained sold young and often combined with hand-woven rush baskets. pungent. it can be intense. H. TASTING NOTES Typically mild and sweet TASTING NOTES Primitivo is less than six with a doughy. or a late-harvest white wine. 10–151⁄2in (26–40cm). cylinder Weight and Shape 22lb–33lb (10–15kg). brittle. and as it matures the taste stagionato. aged for six to 12 months. with age. or ewe’s milk. when vegetable dishes. More mature cheeses Rosso di Franciacorta. aging them for at least three called fondachi. Caciotta Calcagno Canestrato Moliterno A generic name for a host of popular This traditional sheep cheese is made PGI cheeses. HOW TO ENJOY Eat as a snack. ewe or goat Size D. or. Vino Novello. buttery. 2in (5cm) cylinder Size D. mainly from Umbria. Unites HOW TO ENJOY Serve a younger cheese nicely with Italian Spumante Classico. H. a pattern on the brownish-yellow rind. goat. Team with Torgiano are ideal for grating. cylinder Size D. and salty. Extra. or a mix. Perfect with a available. once in rush baskets. H. when it develops taste has sweet notes. produced by the ancient method of and ewes. of rennet. blue. goaty aroma. Weight and Shape 41⁄2–6lb (2–3kg). Pair it with a glass of Merlot di Torre Rosazza. 4–6in Milk Ewe Size D. but it can be used for grated over pasta dishes. cylinder Size D. 4–6in (10–15cm) (10–15cm) 111 Classiﬁcation Hard Milk Goat Milk Goat Producer Caseiﬁcio Pugliese Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various Producer Various . HOW TO ENJOY Caprino Stagionato is in regional artichoke dishes. because. acidity. goats are browsers and are The rind is rubbed with olive oil and allowing the curd to coagulate over happy to feed on rough. this describes it: capra means goat and Italy. HOW TO ENJOY Fabulous grated on pasta. Caprino Fresco is grazing is poor. rocky pastures. wine vinegar as the cheese matures to 24 hours using only a small quantity give a golden color.Canestrato Pugliese Caprino Fresco Caprino Stagionato PDO The name of this cheese concisely Caprino Stagionato is made throughout Like all Canestrato cheeses. L. 1–2in (3–5cm). white mold overlaid with gray and TASTING NOTES The ﬁrm and straw. cylinder Weight and Shape 13⁄4–51⁄2oz (50–150g). 8–10in (20–25cm). Puglia ITALY All over ITALY All over Age 2–12 months Age 2–5 days Age 1–6 months Weight and Shape 151⁄2lb (7kg). At least ten varieties of this TASTING NOTES Ithas a ﬁne dusting of cheese are produced all over Italy. Its milky TASTING NOTES This crumbly cheese is better as it matures. Pair bread or crackers. lemony fresh a nutty and more distinctive goaty I T A LY and pungent with a hint of roast lamb. H. slightly aroma and taste. and it has a nutty. particularly in areas where the ewe’s-milk cheese derives its name fresco means fresh. ITALY Corato. 10in (25cm). becoming salty fragrant with a delicate. Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale. The paste is ivory and tastes colored paste has small eyes. 4in (10cm) small logs Size D. a glass of Franciacorta Millesimato. Team it with with a red like Nero d’Avola or a sweet stufﬁng pasta or bresaola. unlike cows from the reed baskets used to drain it. or over HOW TO ENJOY Typically it is served with perfect as a table cheese and delicious stuffed lamb and veal cutlets. I T A LY 112 RICOTTA AFFUMICATA A week after pressing. The outside turns a warm nut brown. the cheeses are smoked over green conifer-wood ﬁres. and the inside absorbs the smoky aromas of the ﬁre. (See p133) . but not the color. aroma and taste that is sweet with vegetal notes. Small irregular eyes can be present. small cylinder Milk Cow Size D. a Castelli di Jesi Casal Serra or Malvasia Friulano Passito. at notes and a melt-in-the-mouth texture.Carnia Casatella Trevigiana Casciotta d’Urbino This hard cheese is made from the milk PDO PDO of the Bruna Alpina cattle that graze The casa (meaning “home”) in this fresh This historic cheese dates back to the Alps. it complements Verdicchio dei Refosco Isonzo del Friuli or Verduzzo with Prosecco Millesimato Bisol. 21⁄2in (6cm) (400g–2.2kg). Marche Age 6–12 months or more Age 5–10 days Age 20–30 days Weight and Shape 171⁄2lb (8kg). so do creamy cheese with milky and buttery TASTING NOTES A white or slightly yellow the aroma and ﬂavor of the cheese. delle Lipari.2kg). wheel (800g–1. A semi-soft cheese. It was produced in homes for family writings of the Duke of Montefeltro. rather than for sale. H. and Bresaola rosettes as part of a warm HOW TO ENJOY Conventionally a table is best served with a local wine like winter Italian dish. TASTING NOTES A soft. 1545. cheese with an elastic texture and an I T A LY times herbaceous or fruity. 5–6in (12–16cm). Coop . sparkling wine. tender. ITALY Friuli-Venezia Giulia ITALY Veneto ITALY Montemaggiore al Matauro. H. wheel Weight and Shape 14oz–5lb Weight and Shape 13⁄4lb–23⁄4lb Size D. area in small cooperatives. Casatella goes well cheese. it but to ensure a regular income. 3–9in (8–22cm). H. The best ones are made with cheese’s name hints at its original use. becoming more aromatic as it matures. most consumption. Casciotta is made from a combination TASTING NOTES Sweet when young and of ewe’s milk and some cow’s milk. a local omelet-type dish. 11⁄2–21⁄2in Size D. HOW TO ENJOY Carnia is typically used HOW TO ENJOY Traditionally used to stuff in frico. shiny However. Now is also said to have been a favorite of producers sell it at around six months. 2–3in 113 (4–6cm) (5–7cm) Classiﬁcation Hard Milk Cow Milk Ewe and cow Producer Various Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Fattorie Marchigiane Cons. it is made commercially throughout the Michelangelo. as the pastures change. when it was mentioned in the raw milk and aged for over a year. 12in (30cm). while delicate when young. Weight and Shape 41⁄2–151⁄2lb (2–7kg).” is easily recognized as it some internal bluing through cracks in a warm place. ITALY Lombardia and Trentino-Alto Adige ITALY Piemonte ITALY Lombardia Age 2–12 months Age 2–6 months Age 5–10 days Weight and Shape 3–43⁄4lb (1. swelling up like rising bread and ancient drawing of a rose found in the most is sold before the natural bluing bursting through its thin rind. and it is creamy aroma. 8–10in (20–25cm). Castelmagno was from the Latin carsenza. Pinot Nero or Valcalepio Rosso. an the rind and the ﬁne curd. made from the milk This fresh cheese gets its name by a number of dairies from raw and of Piedmontese cows. Casolet Castelmagno PDO Crescenza Produced in the Adamello mountains An ancient cheese. HOW TO ENJOY In Italy. 5–8in Size L. the delicate cheese with a balanced sweet dusted with white and gray molds. the sweet herbaceous ﬂavors change and very savory when ripe. It is also delicious with honey. 6–10in (15–25cm). TASTING NOTES Crescenza is a fresh and TASTING NOTES The thin orange rind is TASTING NOTES The crust is wrinkled. the cheese ferments. H. It goes well with Franciacorta Millesimato Bellavista. 6–8in (15–20cm). H. H. 11⁄2–2in (5–8cm) (12–20cm) (4–5cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Fresh Producer Various Producer Various Producer Various . is stamped with the Rosa Camuna.3–2kg). The interior is white-yellow and very friable taste and pleasant. milky. 2–3in Size D. meaning pasteurized milk. sauce). becoming strong and sticky. and straw-yellow paste is velvety and supple or crumbly in the center. rock carvings of Capo di Ponte. Crescenza HOW TO ENJOY Traditionally eaten on its is sometimes used for preparing HOW TO ENJOY Eat with dried ﬁg conserve own and married with Barolo or used a delicate sauce with chestnuts or in along with Vendemmia Tardiva Cavit or in fondues or velouté (creamy cheese puff-pastry dishes. Nowadays. Casolet.” because when it is kept in “small cheese. meaning traditionally encouraged to develop “ﬂat bread.8–2kg). The paste is moist I T A LY with an aroma of fermented fruits. has developed. with the pastures. triangle drum rectangle 114 Size D. Weight and Shape 4lb–41⁄2lb (1. lemony. smoky overtones. 6–10in (15–25cm). Piemonte ITALY Trentino-Alto Adige ITALY Sardegna Age 1–2 months Age 3–5 months Age 3–6 months Weight and Shape 10 oz and 21⁄4lb Weight and Shape 11lb (5kg). The with olive oil. drum Size D. then stored in the is named after a small cellar excavated town of Dobbiaco in the attractive rafters to imbue them with their from stone. and some cheeses are still of the best butters in the world. and smoky. 4in (10cm). 3–5in (10cm) Size D. pungent ﬁnish. ﬁrst producing one a rectangular or large brick-shaped Bronze Age. TASTING NOTES The rind is reddish or TASTING NOTES The brown rind. rubbed TASTING NOTES Made from local cow’s brownish-red and slightly sticky. nutty aroma. originally used for storage region of Val Pusteria. H. HOW TO ENJOY Serve as an hors d’oeuvre HOW TO ENJOY It ﬂakes or crumbles HOW TO ENJOY Great on a cheese board with fresh fava beans. ITALY Langhe. 4in (1. this is Fiore Sardo possibly dates back to the the dairy industry. or served with polenta. 151⁄2in (40cm). It is made by shepherds in mountain huts creating this original cheese. so try it over pasta. Crutin made from cow’s milk in the mountain over open ﬁres. The paste is supple and straw-yellow with and appearance. along with an Italian red. it easily. Fresh and crumbly with the distinct sweet I T A LY throughout give this slightly citrusy and lemony. then cheese. salty. it is pale yellow and crumbly. so it lends itself to cutting. 21⁄2–4in (6–11cm). by Langhe farmers. of trufﬂe. W. aromatic wine. 4–6in 115 (8–12cm) Milk Cow (10–15cm) Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Ewe Classiﬁcation Flavor-added Producer Latteria di Dobbiaco Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Beppino Occelli Producer Various . cheese the intense aroma and ﬂavor end with a buttery. it becomes sweet at the taste of ewe’s milk and a long-lasting. H. Beppino Occelli has been in Unlike most Italian cheeses.5–4kg). vegetable dishes. has a distinctive aroma milk. and a hint of the stone cellars. H. The texture is hard ﬁne black trufﬂe shavings scattered a few irregular small eyes.Crutin Dobbiaco Fiore Sardo PDO Since 1986. long brick Weight and Shape 31⁄3–8lb 13oz (300g and 1kg) Size L. carpaccio. or when aged. vegetal. or with black rye bread and a generous can be grated over numerous pasta or eggs. 5kg). this semi-soft cheese is aged in deep brown chestnut leaves summer. Valle D’Aosta Age 3–4 months Age 45–60 days Age 3 months Weight and Shape 71⁄2lb (3. and Emmental. ITALY Langhe. like raw onions. ﬂavor that hints of the herbaceous leaving the taste buds waiting for pastures on which the cows graze. giving industrially in much of northern Italy of Mont Blanc. cylinder Weight and Shape 17lb 10oz–22lb Weight and Shape 17lb 10oz–261⁄2lb Size D 81⁄2in (22cm). 12–151⁄2in (30–40cm). Lombardia ITALY Saint-Cristophe. like Fontina. It goes craft beer. Fontina is in the meadows and woods at the foot cheeses: the famous mountain cheese made twice a day from the milk of the of the Maritime Alps and produce milk Fontina. Strong salty ﬁnish in the end. Piemonte ITALY Gottolengo. a dish in which the cheese is board with a big red wine or a dark Pair it with Pignolo di Filiputti and whipped with eggs and cream. while the paste is dense. smooth. and cows graze Fontal is a combination of two great An exceptional cheese. TASTING NOTES The rind is reddish-brown TASTING NOTES Hard. with milky and buttery paste has small holes and a mild. ﬂat wheel 116 Milk Cow and goat Size D. while the supple lip-puckering punch. 3–4in Size D. rather than only in Middle Ages. especially wild mushrooms. ﬂaky and dense. straw-yellow. TASTING NOTES The washed rind is it packs a seriously mouth-watering. Foglie de Castagno Fontal Fontina PDO The Occelli goats. and slightly elastic. notes and a hint of almonds. It is produced Valdostana cows that graze at the foot with extraordinary complexity. which is both aromatic cheese. thought to take its name from a local that look elegant but are very bitter. H. It is a very reddish and sticky. family with the surname Fontin. sheep. Dating back to the the cheese an exceptional ﬂavor. well with full-ﬂavored red wines. so it is ideal in fondues or melted over HOW TO ENJOY Famously used in a HOW TO ENJOY As the last cheese on the vegetables. HOW TO ENJOY Fontal melts superbly. 3–4in (7–10cm) (7–10cm) Classiﬁcation Flavor-added Milk Cow Milk Cow Producer Beppino Occelli Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Various . fonduta. H. It is all year round. nutty I T A LY sweet and savory. H 21⁄2in (7cm) (8–10kg). wheel (8–12kg). Terre d’Agata di Salaparuta. more. 12–151⁄2in (30–40cm). ” refers to the technique technique of placing young cheeses in produced from the milk of goats that by which cheeses are stored in holes barrels of crushed grape skins and graze on Alpine pastures and cuttings carved into the walls of caves in seeds left over from wine-making. aromatic wine. Impressive when served a baked potato or when partnered with excellent with Cabernet Sauvignon di with Cagnina di Romagna. or “hole. or “drunken. Beppiano Ocelli . and a herbaceous taste. Unlike most goat Sagliano. coagulated. ITALY Lombardia ITALY Emilia Romagna and Marche ITALY Veneto Age 20–30 days Age 3–4 months Age 2–12 months Weight and Shape 13⁄4–2lb (700–900g). Various Weight and Shape 51⁄2–11lb (2. the curd is then cut very small to give it a soft. TASTING NOTES Covered in green. ﬂat cylinder Size Various drum Size D. H. better with Albana Passito.5–5kg). sweet almond notes on the ﬁnish HOW TO ENJOY Grate over regional pasta. and HOW TO ENJOY Superb when served with HOW TO ENJOY A superior cheese. it is Fossa. 5–6in (13–15cm). such as passatelli or tortelloni.Formaggella del Formaggio di Fossa Formaggio Ubriaco Luinese PDO di Sogliano PDO Ubriaco. they are cheeses. or cow and goat Producer Various Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Classiﬁcation Flavor-added Producer Various Producer Latteria di Soligo. La Casara di Roncolato Romano. it is minestrone. then left to 30 hours at 39°F (4°C) before being temperature as the cheeses ripen. with preferences of the cheesemaker. I T A LY with a goaty aroma. crumbly smell and a sharp bitterish taste. from spring fencerows. mature and harden for a week or more. which varies according to the texture. 3–5in Milk Ewe. H. the milk is held in vats for about chalk paste to ensure a constant sprinkled with wine. 8–10in (20–25cm). TASTING NOTES The creamy richness yellowish. Weight and Shape Various. the taste is of the cheese marries well with the TASTING NOTES Wrinkled and white variable. Try with an Walch or Moscato Strevi Passito. compact texture. and white mold. or even polenta and mushrooms. which are then sealed with Over two to three days.” refers to the Dating to the 17th century. a moist. 2–3in 117 (8–12cm) (5–8cm) Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Goat Milk Cow. cow or both Size D. but typically it has a pungent distinct ﬂavor and aroma of the wine. and parts of Benevento. the marshes were once again drained. at 21 percent fat. with an earthy. but as the Roman Empire disintegrated. are covered with boiling water. The buffalo and the land were eventually abandoned as malaria became rife. tomatoes. Classiﬁcation Fresh Producer Various Whole ball . but cut into blocks and then put through a mill that content. di Bufala. balsamic vinegar. their texture may be similar. most memorable culinary combinations. and it shreds it into small pieces. sun-ripened Frosinone. But none can match Mozzarella short shelf life and premium price. nutritious. Europe. central Italy: Caserta and Salerno. and Rome. authentic and ingredients between its luscious 118 Mozzarella di Bufala can only be layers of curd. it becomes softer. milk. and fried. and the once-wild buffalo domesticated. and production The water buffalo of Campania. it has Italy. allowed to ferment for a few hours before being and with a high vitamin and mineral Springy at ﬁrst. slippery. The rubbery pieces is bitter and sour only when overripe. In the 18th century. Naples. absorb. It was not until the 12th century that records show cheese was made from its milk. so cow’s-milk alternatives are more widely available. producing some of the made in seven provinces in south. it is best to slice it and allow it Size Various to drain for several hours in a colander Milk Water buffalo so that the crust doesn’t become soggy. Pearls of Middle East. battered. When using Age From 1 day fresh mozzarella to top a pizza or ﬁll a Weight and Shape Various calzone. and basil. melanzane alla parmigiana. malaria all but eradicated. the drainage systems and rivers silted up. If authentically The buffalo was introduced to Italy made. rubbery blocks of cow’s milk Mozzarella di Bufala make it loved the world over. it is strictly monitored texture rather than taste to a dish and to ensure the quality and provenance to trap. However. surprisingly low in fat. mossy aroma and THE CURD the freshly-made curd is Rich in calcium. a taste reminiscent of new leather. and beast to plow the marshes south of new-leather notes of buffalo’s milk. made with milk from the handsome water buffalo it is not readily available outside of of Campania. or salty. Latina. and. made with layers of eggplant and mozzarella in a tomato sauce. Protected under Italian and HOW TO ENJOY Its role is to give European law. in the 7th century as a working but they lack the earth. It is very I T A LY other stretched-curd or pasta ﬁlata sweet and mild. The recipe was introduced from a grainy texture composed of many the eastern Mediterranean and layers. sandwiched between two slices of ITALY Campania and Lazio bread. pure white balls to yellow. with its only suitable for family pizzas. mozzarella is highly never crinkled. or in a carrozza (carriage). where you can ﬁnd milky whey should seep out. moss. of mozzarella became widespread throughout Campania in southern TASTING NOTES When cut. Mozzarella di Bufala PDO A CLOSER LOOK The extraordinarily versatile and Mozzarella is made around the world and varies from lush. Perfect on pizza. and intensify the juices of the product. In fact. Naples. like cooked chicken. like aged but not sour cheeses in Israel and Cyprus. easily digested. high in protein. irresistibly stretchy texture of juicy. salads of olive oil. so that. THE TEXTURE To achieve the desired texture. torn When cut. 119 It must not be soft or mushy when cut. the rubbery curd and boiling water are stirred until the lumps turn into a smooth. STRETCHING In a process known as pasta ﬁlata. milky moisture should seep out. plasticky-looking mass. I T A LY Ball. which heightens the ﬂavor and helps to preserve it. This creates layers of curd with droplets of whey trapped within the concentric circles that resemble cooked chicken breast. or braids of varying sizes. it springs back to its original shape. but ﬁbrous and elastic. small balls (bocconcini). if poked. BRINING The balls are put into cold brine to soak and absorb a small amount of salt. . the curds are spun and stretched into balls. 1–10in Size D. and in winter yellow rind is very thick. The delicate taste has HOW TO ENJOY Itis classically used on an aroma of forage fragrances. Amarone di Valpolicella. white. taste and an elastic texture that turns compact and springy with widely compact and ﬂoury after 2–3 months. Formai de Mut Grana Padano PDO Latteria Turnaria dell’Alta Valle Created in the 12th century by the This cheese was created in Latteria Brembana PDO Cistercian monks of Chiaravalle Abbey. this cheese. 12in (30cm). where the shareholders are the cheesemakers who all have use of Mut.500 wheels are made in the valley. Size D. of TASTING NOTES Beneath the thin. or mountain dairies. or straw-yellow TASTING NOTES When it is young. scattered holes. Goes oregano. or hard Producer Various Producer Various . It has a sweet-salty I T A LY straw-tinged. It has a sweet fruity taste. hints of milk and cream. H. and I Balzini di Filiputti. or a full-bodied dishes. sparkling wines. H. and Friuli Age 7 weeks–6 months Age 1–2 years Age 1–12 months Weight and Shape 17lb 10oz (8kg). olive oil. ivory rind. while the 2. the aroma and brittle. 14–171⁄2in (35–45cm). this hard cheese is now made in Turnaria. paste is hard.” refers to the numerous dairies in the Padana Valley the facilities and take turns making Alpine grazing of the cows that make and is the biggest of all PDO cheeses. and a glass of red wine: either HOW TO ENJOY Use in polenta or pasta well with bold whites. and HOW TO ENJOY Pair with bread. in hundreds of other recipes. Try with Dolcetto d’Ovada. reds. 3in (8cm) drum wheel 120 Milk Cow Size D. 10–14in (25–35cm). Weight and Shape 13–17lb 10oz (6–8kg). This hard cheese is Production now comes under the produced in summer in 40 casere TASTING NOTES The reddish-yellow or protection of the Slow Food Presidium. the paste is hints of dried fruits. buttery aroma with ﬂowers and hay. Veneto. wheel Weight and Shape 53–88lb (24–40kg). H. homemade pasta and ravioli. when aged. their own individual-style cheeses. and a fragrant. or “mountain. ITALY Lombardia ITALY Lombardia ITALY Lombardia. 2–3in (18–25cm) (5–8cm) Classiﬁcation Hard Milk Cow Milk Cow Producer Various Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Semi-soft. H. 31⁄2–5in Size No size Size D. supplied to the Court of France in order to alleviate her homesickness. age: fresh. persistent. vegetal hints. this cheese was known to be a favorite of Napoleon. intense spiciness. del Collio. HOW TO ENJOY Essential for making HOW TO ENJOY Try Montasio with large HOW TO ENJOY Bomboloni (“doughnuts”) tiramisù and charlottes. the production of this hard cheese in March. TASTING NOTES Milky-colored and TASTING NOTES The taste depends on the velvety smooth. Toscana ITALY All over ITALY Veneto Age 15–90 days. Small I T A LY full of sweet ﬂavors and ﬂoral and buttery aroma. best at 30 days Age Ready after 1 day Age 2–12 months Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–3lb 3oz Weight and Shape 31⁄2–7oz (100–200g). served with apple slices with sugar and a glass of Sassò di Felluga. eyes can be present. 6–81⁄2in (15–22cm). It dates has been protected by the Montasio De Medici became Queen Consort of back to the 12th century and was consortium since 1987 and is now also King Henry II in 1533. with its and pepper. wheel Size D. Good with Ansonica Costa lemon. produced at the beginning of lactation to gradually separate or curdle it. Weight and Shape 13lb 4oz–17lb 10lb (500g–1. H. For a wonderful combination. oil. covered by the PDO program. or very old.” Roccalbegna Formaggio Montasio Grosseto . and is taste and a full.5kg). It can TASTING NOTES It has a straw-yellow or it has a marked sweet and lemony be milky and buttery when young. and fantastic ravioli and asparagus. Pair it with are made with Marzolino. pair it with a classic dessert wine. like rich heavy cream. 3in (8cm) 121 (9–13cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Ewe Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Consorzio per la Tutela del Producer Caseiﬁcio “Il Fiorino. When 14-year-old Catherine before draining off the whey.” as This fresh cheese is made by heating Created by an unknown monk from the traditionally this ewe’s cheese was only cream and allowing the natural acidity Moggio Abbey during the 13th century. semi-aged. and savory and aromatic when aged. bread. and white paste with irregular eyes.Marzolino Mascarpone Montasio PDO Marzolino means “little March. ITALY Roccalbegna Grosseto. oval pots (6–8kg). or the sweet Picolit dell’Argentario or Sagrantino Passito. 12–14in (30–35cm). red Verduno Pelaverga. H. Even today. (6–9kg). H. a ruby-red. TASTING NOTES The rind is white-yellow. tannic. It is delightful matched with or other spirits). better at 3 Age 4–10 days Weight and Shape 13lb 4oz–19lb 3oz Weight and Shape 9lb–17lb 10oz Weight and Shape 10–14oz (300–400g). this traditional product. 4 or 8 months Age 3–5 months. 3–5in Size D. H. ﬁne. 10–14in (25–35cm). as the cream was sold and is produced by many small dairies. pastures and prized cheese was originally made it is still an authentic farmhouse cheese. this Elder during the Roman Empire. which ivory paste is soft. Merlot dei Colli Trevigiani. full-bodied. while the sweet and acid with a creamy aroma herbaceous taste when young. 8–12in (20–30cm). when very old. with and vegetal hints. It matches perfectly Recioto della Valpolicella. it TASTING NOTES The thin rind bears the and the ﬂavor is a careful balance of is compact and elastic with a sweet imprint of the basket mold. and balanced wine. cow Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Caseiﬁcio Montegrappa. Today Lessinia Alps. Monte Veronese PDO Morlacco Murazzano PDO This was created in 1273 when Bishop Named after the Morlachs. rind (sometimes treated with oil). Veneto ITALY Piemonte Age 2. and spicy and fruity when old. yet crumbly. grazing cows are the basic elements of with skim milk. rich. round round 122 Size D. Bartholomeus della Scala authorized people who arrived in Italy as Murazzano was documented by Pliny the the Cimbri shepherds to live in the shepherds from the Balkans. and for preparing HOW TO ENJOY Great with fruit and nuts. a nomadic One of the Robiola family of cheeses. 1–11⁄2in (7–11cm) (7–12cm) (3–4cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Ewe. Producer Various Formaggio di Spelonca . pepper and olive oil. or cook with Bruss (a cream with spices and grappa Team with a full-bodied red. and elastic. I T A LY becomes crumbly and ﬂoral in middle delicate ﬂoral and fruity notes. ITALY Veneto ITALY Cesiomaggiore. HOW TO ENJOY It is used in the famous HOW TO ENJOY Simply serve it with Murazzano timbale. such as gnocchi. with Langhe Freisa di Cozzo. TASTING NOTES With a brown-yellow the texture smooth. 4–6in (10–15cm). 3–41⁄2in Size D. for butter. age. wheel (4–8kg). or the pair it with a sweet Torcolato Maculan. Today it is made with reduced-fat milk. San Francesco al Campo. Roero Arneis. Pannarello has the paste creamy or straw-yellow. Latteria Modolo Dino . wheel (300–500g). H.Ossolano Paglierine Pannarello This traditional cheese is made in Also called Braculina or Paglietta. The secret of the placed to allow excess whey to drain off. herby a fresh. Piemonte ITALY Rifreddo. small cylinder cylindrical Size D. d’Asti. It pairs well with a red Sizzano sesame and ham on crusty bread. technique is reﬂected in its name: cheese’s ﬂavor lies in the herbs that Created in 1891 by Signor Quaglia. Try serving it with the sparkling breasts. 10–12in (25–30cm). raisins. near Turin. where the bouquet has with a balanced red such as Dolcetto Bisol. covers a soft. With that melts in the mouth and has when eaten it feels almost elastic. and chili fondues or paired with mixed-berry serve this cheese is melted over turkey peppers. which means “cream. or an intense white Roero. 12–16in (30–40cm).” grow only in that region. I T A LY aroma and is slightly bitter. 11⁄2–2in Size D. delicate. it has an intense. mushroomy aroma and taste. white pepper. though pleasantly so. Piemonte ITALY Giavera del Montello. This graze the Ossola Alps. Italian-style. creamy paste a scalded milk aroma and taste. Weight and Shape 10oz–1lb 2oz Weight and Shape 11–19lb 2oz (5–9kg). H. 21⁄2–3in 123 (6–8cm) (3–4cm) (6–8cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Soft white Classiﬁcation Fresh Producer Latteria Sociale Antigoriana Producer Caseiﬁcio Oreglia Producer Latteria Montello. or the fresh and grassy white a hint of violets. 21⁄2–3in Size D. TASTING NOTESVery delicate in the TASTING NOTES The rind is brown and TASTING NOTES The white. HOW TO ENJOY Fill Paglierine with HOW TO ENJOY Pannarello is perfect for HOW TO ENJOY An impressive way to nuts. ITALY Corato. in panna. and sometimes with small eyes. a sweet taste. Pair and fruity white Prosecco Cartizze di Zanetta. Veneto Age 2–6 months Age 15–20 days Age 1–2 days Weight and Shape 11–15lb 7oz (5–7kg). and Ghemme. this One of only a handful of Italian cheeses summer in mountain huts from the cheese takes its name from the paglia that are made by adding extra cream to milk of the Bruna Alpina cattle that (“straw”) on which it was traditionally the milk before it is curdled. bloomy rind mouth and very creamy. H. 4–6in (10–15cm). or serve with jams. . creating intricate and attractive patterns on the cheese.I T A LY 124 PRIMO SALE Many ancient Italian cheeses were drained in woven or braided rush baskets. which also identiﬁed the producer. (See p130). cylinder (1. and sometimes has small fruity and ﬂoral. The taste is pungent and sweet. so the ﬂavor is The art of making Pecorino Crotonese pecorino delle crete senesi (creta is instead derived from the action of is described in a book written in 1759. or aromatic Pelago Umani Ronchi. 21⁄2–3in (6–8cm) 125 Milk Cow (12–15cm) Milk Ewe Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Ewe and goat Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Caseiﬁcio Uberti 1896. Italian Christmas Eve. Caselle Lurani Producer Various . has hints of toasted hazelnuts. cylinder round Size D. is now mostly made the natural bacteria. 6–8in (15–20cm). a sort of clay). 8in (20cm) Size D. HOW TO ENJOY A must-have cheese on an with a vegetal aroma. full-bodied Cirò or fruity Bivongi Bianco. the milk of sheep and goats that graze maturation with a mixture of oil and the mountain pastures. H. or the ground beef and eggplant.5kg). 6–8in (15–20cm). tomatoes or clay. rush basket used to drain it. ﬁrm. Team it with grated over grilled lamb. with myriad small yellow rind bears the imprint of the holes and a persistent alcoholic aroma. TASTING NOTES Soft. The ﬂavor is I T A LY TASTING NOTES tang. It goes intense Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso.Pannerone Lodigiano Pecorino or Pecorino di Pienza Unlike most cheeses. Pandino Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various Carena. matured. which has led to its near demise. also called made without salt. ITALY Pandino. 5in–6in Size D. Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz–51⁄2lb Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb–41⁄2lb (1–2kg). Serve with HOW TO ENJOY Delicious on macaroni or stuffed peppers and artichokes. this ancient cheese. perfectly with Chianti dei Colli Senesi. 11–12in (28–30cm). Pannerone is Canastrato Crotonese Sadly. but the ﬁnish an elastic texture that becomes ﬁrm has a distinct almondy taste and bitter The straw-yellow paste is and crunchy with age. and when well eyes. The brownish.5–2. H. stirred into HOW TO ENJOY Often used for ﬁlling steamed vegetables. The Slow Food This hard cheese takes its name from with pasteurized ewe’s milk. Lombardia ITALY Calabria ITALY Toscana Age 15–20 days Age 2–12 months Age 1–4 months Weight and Shape 22–29lb (10–13kg). The rind Organization hopes to expand the city of Crotone and is made from varies in color since it is rubbed during production of this cow’s-milk cheese. H. friable. TASTING NOTES It is very sweet and has it is at ﬁrst quite mild. H. while Maturo is made This cheese is documented as far back described by Marcus Terentius Varro using lamb’s rennet. Lamb’s TASTING NOTES Dolce is a young. and a glass of Montesodi ricotta and herbs. Team with Chianti Rùﬁna or Vernaccia Sarda. rather than housed in barns. full. HOW TO ENJOY Excellent with French salty. rennet. Odyssey. when Odysseus met the as essential for the rations of the from the milk of sheep that are free. Dogliani and Nuragus di Cagliari. Both are made as 900 BCE. H. The brown-yellow rind is rennet is still used for coagulation. this protein. and serve with carasau bread culingiones. 10–14in (25–35cm). with it is ﬁrm and friable with a pungent. H. as it provided fat. As in ancient times. Cyclops Polyphemus in Homer’s Roman legions. Pecorino Romano Pecorino Sardo PDO Pecorino Siciliano PDO Pecorino Sardo Dolce is made from PDO In 100 BCE. TASTING NOTES Yellow and sometimes is crumbly and crunchy and has the Meat-broth notes can also be present. cylinder drum wheel 126 Size D. elastic. a sort of ravioli with vegetables. and long-lasting ﬂavor. Weight and Shape 21⁄4–23⁄4lb (1–2. aged ones with bread and (dry bread). Pecorino Romano was calf’s rennet. Pair with Dolcetto di olives or grated over pasta. notes. 3–5in (8–13cm) Size D. white cheese with buttery and ﬂoral imprinted with a rush basket design. a salty tang and hints of lanolin. Maturo 8 months Age 4–12 months Weight and Shape 8–14in (20–35kg). Maturo is more intense. 6–8in (15–20cm). 10–151⁄2in Size D. ITALY Toscana ITALY Sardegna ITALY Sicilia Age 5–12 months Age Dolce 1–2 months. Anthìlia Donnafugata or sweet Zibibbo. It is also HOW TO ENJOY Grate over pasta and a basic ingredient in the local dish HOW TO ENJOY Serve young cheeses with risottos. compact paste of pleasant pungent and salty ﬂavors. onion soup and lamb dishes. 4–7in (25–40cm) (10–18cm) Milk Ewe Milk Ewe Milk Ewe Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various Producer Various Producer Various . and salt and could survive the cheese is still handmade using lamb’s rigors of soldiers on the move. I T A LY sweetness typical of ewe’s milk.3kg). and full TASTING NOTES The ﬁrm. grazing. studded with whole black peppercorns. 51⁄2–15in (14–38cm). Weight and Shape 9–261⁄2lb (4–12kg). and in 1832 Maiorchino. H. during the Roman First recorded in the days of the Roman the Piave River. wheel 127 Milk Ewe Milk Ewe Size D.5kg). Busche- Cesiomaggiore. It has a rich. It is ﬂavored with saffron cooperatives where cheesemakers Ignazio Malenotti. 3–5in (7–12cm) (6–7kg). it is HOW TO ENJOY Eat with a lettuce or also often added to bucatini with HOW TO ENJOY Delicious for snacking. more aromatic when aged. Veneto Age 1–6 months Age 2–4 months Age Fresco 1–2 months. They are vegetable rennet from Cynara are currently applying for PDO status. Aged. 6–8in (15–22cm). this cheese is also known as is produced in latteria—small Elder as caseus lunensis. Match it with Etna cheese boards. or grating. chicory salad. 12–131⁄2in (30–34cm). full-bodied fruity reds like Pinot Noir. It tastes lightly sweet. Vecchio over 6 months (1–3. I T A LY yellow or white with a sweet taste and also pungent and astringent with compact. along with Morellino di artichoke hearts. 81⁄2in (21cm).Pecorino Toscano Piacentinu Ennese Piave PDO PDO PDO Made throughout the area around A historic cheese. TASTING NOTESThe oil-rubbed rind is are yellow-orange from the addition of becoming brown–yellow with age. wrote about its use of traditional reed baskets. drum Size D. ITALY Toscana ITALY Sicilia ITALY Belluno. Belluno . 51⁄2in (15cm) Weight and Shape 13lb 4oz–15lb 7lb Size D. cylinder 2–6 months. currently applying for PDO status. HOW TO ENJOY Fantastic for melting. Rosso or Cerasuolo di Vittoria. but is texture ranges from elastic to ﬁrm. Mezzano Weight and Shape 21⁄4–7lb 11oz Weight and Shape 9lb 9oz (4. The yellow or brownish-yellow. The paste is saffron.5kg). Serve with Scansano or Moscadello di Montalcino. it becomes crumbly saffron and black pepper notes. 3in (8cm) Classiﬁcation Flavor-added Classiﬁcation Hard Milk Cow Producer Various Producer Various Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Lattebusche. fruity notes. becoming and savory with dry. cardunculus (cardoon) ﬂowers. H. intense fruity sweetness. this hard cheese Empire it was referred to by Pliny the Empire. The makers own individual cheeses. TASTING NOTES The outside and inside TASTING NOTES The rind is straw-yellow. and friable. in his book Manuale and black pepper and is shaped in share facilities—but each makes their del Pecoraio. H. milky aroma. some will be branded with “Extra” to the magniﬁcent shiny drum. As a ﬂavor in virtually any savory dish you result. indicate they have passed an additional test. fruity. not plastic or supple. Parmigiano-Reggiano is made with Parmigiano-Reggiano will keep for skim milk. culinary. with a signiﬁcantly can be scraped off. the Consorzio del Formaggio The diet of hay in winter produces a around a length of wood. which ITALY Emilia-Romagna and Lombardia even dessert wines. and brand polished off and are sold as Grana.” and speciﬁed it pale yellow. noted for their higher casein content. and certainly not vicious or bitter. tangy fresh grass. the cheeses change subtly choose to make. bought a large chunk. chiseled to order from possibility). name “Parmigiano-Reggiano. only leaving behind a sweet. and Reggio Emilia. a chunk will last for weeks. it is also very hard BRANDING Cheeses that pass the rigorous when mature. from bread to sauces. while those made in fall are cauldron. H. hay. 20in (50cm). butterfat. robust reds. and grate it they are suitable for immediate consumption. and lately “Parmesan. and each must meet the according to a recipe barely changed since the 12th century. Spring cheeses are a soft yellow with a delicate ﬂavor and herbal scent attributed to the wildﬂowers on which the cows graze. producing some 10 million is to taste a piece of Italian geological. Parmigiano-Reggiano PDO A CLOSER LOOK Parmigiano-Reggiano is made by To taste a piece of Parmigiano-Reggiano. It will Later. Newly formed wheels of summer-made cheese exude DRAINING Large copper cauldrons are used to make the cheese. nor should it ever smell acrid. TASTING NOTES Parmigiano- Reggiano should never taste sour or dull. also known as Parmesan. fruity. which content. produce it could be fed no silage. and the Consortium that rigidly controls its production drum. or use it to indicate they can be aged for another two In Italy it is sold in large rough. but fresh. Those The full-bodied ﬂavor lends itself to that do not meet the requirements have their crisp white wines. knotted and slung In 1955. however. the freezer. the grazing. 18in (45cm) Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various . soups. Age 18–36 months Weight and Shape 83lb (38kg). infrequently (an unthinkable years or more. so they are drier and more an enormous mass forms at the bottom of the pungent. which are left to hang Parmigiano-Reggiano protected the for 24 hours to drain off excess whey. requiring two people to raise it using The ofﬁcial stamp of the Consorzio. the addition of “Mezzano” means grainy chunks. Parma. Consorzio’s strict regulations. and a little goes a very long way. convex drum Size D. It is also stipulated that versatile cheese in the world for the cows whose milk is used to cooking. a very strong piece of cloth.” and and crumbly. if you have tests are branded with “Parmigiano-Reggiano” lower moisture content than cheddar. 383 dairies. and Bologna in the region of HOW TO ENJOY Superb simply Emilia-Romagna and Mantova in eaten in chunks. Or. but the rough 128 surface may grow some mold. which reduces the fat weeks in the refrigerator. This cheese is inﬂuenced by the soil. keep it in. and cultural cheeses per year. as it dissolves when heated. with the seasons. Brittle cut into two quantities. the required to make one 84lb (38kg) climate. salads. or quickly defrost on a hot dish. I T A LY could only be made in the provinces of Modena. simply means “hard cheese” in Italian. and probably the most Lombardia. After the curd is broken up. “Export” if they are of ﬁrst-class quality. strong and rich but not overpoweringly salty. and sweet like fresh pineapple. A staggering 145 gallons (550 liters) of milk are history. and pasta. This huge mass is then paler but richer-tasting cheese. straight from. or alfalfa. crumbly texture is typical Interior of an aged cheese. ensuring that every The unique number portion has the cheese name on Exterior identiﬁes the dairy. conﬁrming authenticity. 129 . I T A LY Stamp of quality from The distinctive the Consorzio. brittle. The stamp encircles the entire cheese. it. Date of manufacture. such as I T A LY has herbal hints. Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz–6lb 6oz Size Various various (1. or tufa. HOW TO ENJOY The Dolce variety can be HOW TO ENJOY Simply serve it with olive black pepper. but has a stronger ﬂavor when the milk thyme. that TASTING NOTES It has a sharp. Originally milk is linked to a breed of dairy cattle. Pair with local wines.” a reference cheese of the poor. Some are from southern Italy. that was bred by the ﬂavored with black or red peppercorns. oregano. Various Weight and Shape 41⁄2–22lb (2–10kg). Sicilia ITALY All over ITALY Campania Age 7–10 days Age 1–12 months Age 1–2 months. The pungent aroma milky when clotted with calf rennet. pear or sausage-shaped 130 Milk Ewe Size Various Size Various Classiﬁcation Fresh Milk Cow Milk Cow Producer Various Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various Producer Various . salt. refreshing Auricchio families. parsley. and TASTING NOTES The aromatic herbs of that exude whey. and basil. Pair with Gutturnio di wild fennel. ITALY Mirto. a delicious ﬂavor. HOW TO ENJOY Serve it sliced into thin layers and dressed with olive oil.5–3kg). and chopped fresh mint. with irregular eyes TASTING NOTES It can be mild.. or Collio Rosso di Russiz. The texture is crunchy. like Caciocavallo. as well as Pinot Grigio. milk. but with sweet notes. acidity. century by the Margiotta and It is aged in natural caves. and cheese. PDO Sicily and Sardinia using lamb rennet. give the is coagulated with kid rennet. after it has been salted. use Piccante or oil and fresh aromatic herbs. while the to the fact that is it sold a few days piece gave a lot of ﬂavor. because just a little created by a visiting monk. are formed near mineral springs. sweet. Provolone was traditionally the Legend has it that this cheese was The name means “ﬁrst salt. the Lattari mountain pastures. It goes well aged in risotto. grilled when young. to the north at the end of the 19th House of Bourbon in the 18th century. Poggiarello. such as It is used in ﬁsh dishes too. with a robust red or a sweet Marsala. Messina. or 2 years in caves Weight and Shape Various. and marjoram. Primo Sale Provolone PDO Provolone del Monaco Primarily produced on small farms in A pasta ﬁlata cheese. it was brought named Agerolese. cheese has a sticky orange rind and inside. an elastic. vinegar. 11⁄2in–3in (4–8cm) Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Caseiﬁcio Sociale Predazzo e Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various Moena. olive oil. it is very I T A LY pungent. grainy. and velvety. lightly TASTING NOTES This strong-smelling TASTING NOTES Ivory-white outside and salty. Locally.” Today it is produced all year round. wheel Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz–7lb 11oz (1–100kg). pancetta. Size D. using milk from cattle that had grazed using liquid calf rennet.” in reference Traditionally this cheese was made two varieties: it is Dolce when made to the very strong odor of this cheese. aromatic hay harvested at when produced using the paste rennet rind is washed weekly with salty tepid the beginning of fall—the fourth from young goats. sour. and buttery ﬂavor. 14–171⁄2in (35–45cm). ﬂask. and and parsley. and Piccante It is a singularly hard cheese and the the sweet. W. water. Use the Dolce variety in mild dishes. H. grainy texture. a hint of citrus fruit on the ﬁnish. 7–81⁄2in (18–22cm). Try with Valbissera di san Secco di Sorbara (sparkling red wine). Trentino-Alto Adige ITALY Lombardia Age 1–12 months Age 5–10 months Age 5–10 days Weight and Shape 21⁄4–220lb Weight and Shape 19lb 13oz (9kg). HOW TO ENJOY Try it with nuts and pears. or serve with celery Serve with Freisa d’Asti. white interior that melts in Both sour and a little sweet. having an aroma of yogurt sweet. and bitter tastes with and a suggestion of wild herbs. meaning “savory cheese. salt. it’s called Spretz Tzaorì. 11⁄2in–3in 131 Size Various Milk Cow (4–8cm). The ﬂavor is a balance of refreshing. (quartirola) and ﬁnal cut before winter. Piccante is dense and compact.5–3. HOW TO ENJOY Used in the specialty dish Piccante in stronger ﬂavored ones. smooth. ITALY Emilia-Romagna ITALY Fassa Valley. chopped chives. with a friable. mandarino (10–25cm) Size L. Trento Producer Various . H. and has a sweet. salamino. Good with Teroldego Colombano or Malvasia delle Lipari. and salty with nutmeg hints. milky. the mouth.Provolone Valpadana Puzzone di Moena Quartirolo Lombardo PDO PDO PDO This pasta ﬁlata cheese is produced in Puzzone means “stinking.5kg). ﬂat square melon. HOW TO ENJOY Locals eat it with boiled of Quartirolo pie. pear. Predazzo. 4–10in (1. or Lambrusco potatoes. TASTING NOTES Dolce is elastic. Rotaliano Rosso or Pinot Noir. (See p114) . a petal-shaped version of Casolet. Lombardia.I T A LY 132 ROSA CAMUNA The famous Rosa Camuna imprint is derived from an ancient drawing of a rose found in rock carvings in Capo di Ponte. This version is found on the cheese Rosa Camuna. Pair and oregano. brown rind dusted with white and an elastic. velvety interior with TASTING NOTES The relatively high The yellow paste has a few irregular eyes or holes. quattrofacce (“four faces”). Mild and moisture content turns the outside I T A LY TASTING NOTES small eyes and a taste that is sweet. sour-salty. sweet-sour taste with marked vegetal a warm nut-brown. Weight and Shape 11lb–17lb 10oz Weight and Shape 7oz–1lb 2oz dumbbell (5–8kg). ITALY Sicilia ITALY Piemonte ITALY Friuli-Venezia Giulia and Veneto Age 3–12 months Age 1–3 months Age 15–30 days Weight and Shape 22–35lb (10–16kg). and gave it the name the natural rennet. It tastes HOW TO ENJOY At its best with blueberry garlic. H.Ragusano PDO Raschera PDO Ricotta Affumicata Ragusano is a pasta ﬁlata cheese A classic mountain cheese that is Ricotta is typically made from whey and the symbol of the Sicilian dairy quoted in the Summa Lacticiniorum left over from making large. notes like grass. Match with Grecanico. with vegetal and animal hints. H. fresh. W. Cheese aged a compliment—to have four faces TASTING NOTES It has a thin. pale white. it with crisp. The texture is soft. 6–7in (15–18cm) (6–9cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Flavor-added Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various Producer Various Producer Various . and rye bread. 21⁄2–31⁄2in Size Various 133 (15–18cm). money bag Size L. 17–211⁄2in (43–55cm). leathery for a month can be grated. then dress with white vinegar delicious alongside a glass of Nebiolo jam. then smoked over green to the villages. hay. and cauliﬂower. The unusual dumbbell by Pantaleone da Conﬁenza in 1477. very ﬁne. HOW TO ENJOY Very good for fondues and HOW TO ENJOY Marinate in olive oil and a great vol-au-vent ﬁlling. the tiny white shape was created to make it easy to where he describes how strips of lamb’s lumps of curd are lightly pressed and transport by mule from the mountains stomach are soaked in water to remove dry-salted. and crumbly with a light. acacia honey. This is not they then are ready to eat. pungent. square with rounded edges (200–500g). Once drained. cheeses. means to be unreliable. light white wines. and astringent. 12–16in (30–40cm). 6–7in Size D. d’Alba or Sciacchetrà. delicate taste and hints of pine. conifer-wood ﬁres for about a week. hard industry. or goat Milk Goat mixed with cow. (500g–2kg). Match it ﬁngers. with vegetal and brown with a ﬁne gray mold. replaced TASTING NOTES Robiola d’Alba is smooth. such as Barbaresco. it has been (red). 11⁄2–2in Size D.” Pair with Frascati Superiore. Today. with a taste that is has a smooth. and named after the Pergamum in 2 CE. and delicate. H. 11⁄2–2in Milk Ewe (3–4cm) (4–5cm) Classiﬁcation Fresh Milk Cow. HOW TO ENJOY A traditional Italian dish of lanolin from the ewe’s milk. only historic goat’s-milk cheese. grainy texture. ewe. round round 134 Size Various Size D. 4–5in (10–12cm). having a depending on the pastures on which balance of sweet-sour-salt with a hint the sheep graze. this is Italy’s granted the European Union’s used to develop on the rind. with generous reds. Thought to have been introduced by and the recipe was recorded by an area where it has been made for the Celts. or dress with ingredient in a dessert called “apostle’s red wine such as Alabarda Barbera olive oil and aromatic herbs. with more sweet than sour. 4–51⁄2in (10–14cm). while the I T A LY citrus aroma. ﬁne. by high-yielding breeds. H. paste is creamy and smooth. HOW TO ENJOY Ricotta Romana is a major The cheese is best served with a dry HOW TO ENJOY Eat as it is. took its name from Robbio Lomellina. or possibly from rubeola around 1000 CE. The Protected Designation of Origin. It has a creamy TASTING NOTES The rind is white to pale a taste more sweet than sour and a and buttery aroma. who settled in Liguria Columella in 1 CE and Galen of centuries. TASTING NOTESThis refreshing cheese mild. is an omelet made with Robiola d’Alba. and/or ewe Producer Various Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Various . Cato the Elder made reference It is believed that this fresh cheese Roccaverano PDO to this delicate ewe’s-milk whey cheese. d’Alba. Roccaverano goat is now rare. or Dolcetto d’Alba. The ﬂavor changes ﬂoral hints. ITALY Lazio ITALY Piemonte ITALY Piemonte Age 1 day Age 6–7 days Age 7–10 days Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–41⁄2lb Weight and Shape 10oz–1lb 2oz Weight and Shape 9–14oz (250–400g). Ricotta Romana PDO Robiola d’Alba Robiola di In 2 BCE. truncated cone (300–500g. the color of the bacteria that is village of Roccaverano. 6–8in 135 (17–19cm) H. It is shaped by hand means “shoe” in the local dialect. and the paste has an elastic TASTING NOTES Soft. I T A LY sour. with ﬂoral. 61⁄2–71⁄2in (17–19cm) W. with Pomino Rosso Frescobaldi. Also called Mozzarella Passita Known as “witch’s cheese. 6–8in (15–20cm). creating another vital source into two balls. Team it with Cabernet Sauvignon La HOW TO ENJOY Eat fresh or melted. making it resemble the TASTING NOTES It has a gray. Pair with Spumante Classico Italiano. Eredi Carioni. too great. and the it. 3–5in (8–12cm) Size L. fruity. and the taste equally sweet and texture.” and refers to the fact that the (withered mozzarella). and milky aroma. Weight and Shape 7oz–1lb (200–500g). of income. cow.” as it “to save. one slightly smaller than after its ﬂattened shape. green. Scamorza Affumicata is a and the imprint of the cloth in which version smoked over wood or straw. dense. the other. Scamorza is a is said to have been ﬁrst made by a cheese was made in May from excess pasta ﬁlata that is made year-round in witch cheesemaker. better after 1 year Age 2–10 days Age 1–3 months Weight and Shape 61⁄2–9lb 9oz (3–4kg). Coccaglio. W. it has the bold. However. ITALY Trescore Cremasco. 11⁄2–2in (4–5cm) Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Semi-soft (pasta ﬁlata) Milk Ewe. reddish washed rind but is white TASTING NOTES It is white to straw-yellow inside. sweet taste. H. Trescore Cremasco. it is pressed. 61⁄2–71⁄2in Size H. Agr. It is especially good in summer. or citrus notes. with some eyes. any dry white Cortese wine. square balls or large pears ﬂat round Size L. brown-yellow inside. Weight and Shape 4–41⁄2lb (1. the name milk when the yield from the cows was southern Italy. brown color. It has a milky-yogurt aroma with Scamorza Affumicata is brown on the complex taste of the milk used to make citrus fruit notes. Lombardia ITALY Campania ITALY Piemonte Age 2 months. or or use in fondues and sauces. Stoppa or a sweet Malvasia di Candia. Cremona . Team HOW TO ENJOY Eat it with slices of speck. or sole of a shoe. or goat Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Caseiﬁcio San Carlo. The texture is friable and outside. Producer Various Brescia Az. and smooth grainy. outside. 31⁄2–6in (9–15cm) Milk Cow (15–20cm). HOW TO ENJOY Eat in risotto with porcini. smoky aroma enhances the sweet taste.Salva Cremasco PDO Scamorza Sola (Sora or Soera) The name Salva comes from salvare.8–2kg). Weight and Shape 31⁄2–41⁄2lb (1. However. provide natural air-conditioning and so it is best to gently scrape it. ripening it from province in Lombardia. It exudes The interior is soft. and local milk. soups. risottos. salads as well as some types of pizza and crêpes. a sturdy red from Cabernet. omelets. under the rind. recipe has been adapted to modern 136 technology while still remaining true HOW TO ENJOY An excellent table to the traditional methods essential cheese. and pastures and matured in the caves. or the square outstanding bottle-fermented sparkling Size D. as either been killed off with excessive well as larger factories where the refrigeration or remains hidden. The surface of every cheese is imprinted with the distinctive four-leafed brand of the Consorzio Tutela Taleggio. the temperature. Taleggio PDO A CLOSER LOOK Taleggio is aged by the producer Mention of Taleggio dates back to the 10th and 11th centuries. like eating rich cream Valsassina.7–2kg). and the natural caves of I T A LY mountain ﬂowers. Taleggio was created to preserve the fragrance of fermenting fruit. 16in (40cm) and 28in (70cm). The imprint is visible even if the cheese is sold in portions. and even the paper that wraps the cheese when it is sold The enzymes produced from the microﬂora must be of a certain type and carry on the crust break down the curd by working the Taleggio brand. it can be eaten as is or used in to retain its unique character. almost a gentle but insistent herbaceous liquid. now made from both pasteurized and and grainy and the true character has raw milk in many small dairies. like Terre di Franciacorta Age 25–40 days DOC. pears. however. various recipes because it melts so The best Taleggio. 4in (10cm) wines that qualify as Franciacorta Milk Cow DOCG. Piedmont. Barbera. With increasing underripe.” TASTING NOTES The molds and yeasts of the rind speed up the The dramatic landscape of the Alpine valley of Val Taleggio in Italy’s northern Bergamo breakdown of the curd. Taleggio in the province of Bergamo—an area also famous for its great cheeses such as Grana Padano (see p120) and Gorgonzola (see pp108–109)—where it is made. the outside toward the center. Lombardia. hay. from the outside. of broccoli soup. and Veneto Franciacorta. or milk from the summer alpine in pastas. Typically served at the end of undoubtedly that made with raw the meal with apples. H. It’s a guarantee of quality and origin. remove the crust before eating or Their deep crevices or ﬁssures cooking with it. or ﬁgs. humidity. when it is dull. is readily. most notably Ca’ del Bosco. Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various . It’s not necessary to provide the perfect ripening room. a process known as “mold-ripening. and native has only been used since the 20th century and refers to the Val microﬂora play a vital role. Taleggio is temperature. Best with a local wine from ITALY Lombardia. soft breezes to spread the molds that Sadly. and Nebbiolo grapes. in Lecco. or before it comes to room awareness and popularity. the name in specially controlled rooms. or an afﬁneur in the local caves or where there is evidence of it being traded. Taleggio is often sold and eaten grow in the rind. rubbery. but it is a little gritty. DRAINING The cheese is drained on special tables called spersori. each holding I T A LY eight cheeses. along with the maker’s number. is pressed into the soft cheese. THE IMPRINT The four-leaf brand from the Consorzio becomes more distinct as the cheese ages and the brand is outlined by the SALTING Each cheese is rubbed ﬁne gray and white molds that dust the rind. 137 Half square . and then placed in molds with rounded edges. in wooden boxes. The consortium brand. The orangy-pink color in dry salt or soaked in brine for of the rind becomes more 8–12 hours. The cheeses are put pronounced with age. mountain pastures.I T A LY 138 SORA The streaks and splashes of color resemble a piece of modern Italian art. but instead are the work of the wild yeasts. and special rooms where Sora is ripened. (See p135) . bacteria. and molds that proliferate in the raw milk. Bergamo ITALY Piemonte Age 4–12 months Age 3–5 months Age 1–4 months Weight and Shape 17lb 10oz–22lb Weight and Shape 9–11lb (4–5kg). 6–14in (15–35cm). Team it with fruity the velvety Valtellina Superiore. Team it with a dry Magnus with barley soup.Spressa delle Strachìtunt PDO Toma Piemontese Giudicarie PDO Made using the milk from Bruna Alpina PDO This ancient mountain cheese was cows since the late 1800s and combining Made since the Roman Empire. ITALY Trentino-Alto Adige ITALY Lombardia. The a hint of spiced mushrooms. 6–7in (2–8kg). skimmed milk. HOW TO ENJOY For an authentic ﬂavor. depending on its brown rind and a crunchy texture when ﬁne. TASTING NOTES Toma Piemontese has TASTING NOTES It has a straw-yellow or it has a dense. very a hundred tastes. or melted in many HOW TO ENJOY Enjoy this on its own. strong aroma comes from the pastures on which the cows graze. It is sweet and melts I T A LY more buttery when higher in fat. HOW TO ENJOY Use grated in bruss try this with gnocchi and polenta. gourmet cheese. late-harvest white wine. 12–14in (30–35cm). The taste is sweet with cheesemaking. and a dry. wheel Weight and Shape 41⁄2oz–17lb 10oz (8–10kg). easily. 21⁄2–5in 139 (10–11cm) Milk Cow (6–12cm) Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Blue Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Arrigoni Valtaleggio Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Various . or a light and dry red wines. such as recipes. sweet. as the farmers recently been revived by a small French tomme. or a Langhe Chardonnay. wheel Size D. and crusty rind. Strachìtunt has could be the Italian version of the skimmed several times. 91⁄2–11in (24–28cm). sparkling red Barbera del Monferrato. and art of the low in fat. TASTING NOTES Unlike most Italian blues. ripening time. being yellower. compact texture. or Match it with an austere red. sweeter. wheel Size D. or pastasciutta. which is made in the could sell butter for a higher price than consortium of producers who are now nearby Savoy region. H. It is a versatile cheese. erratic bluing. H. H. Toma traditionally made with milk that was two batches of curd. 4–41⁄2in (15–18cm) Size D. wrinkled weight. with vegetal and woody notes. Today it is made with partially making around 50 cheeses a week. today the production and from cows grazing about a mile (1. ITALY Arona. TASTING NOTES A brown or brown-yellow It has a creamy taste and sometimes TASTING NOTES Under a thick yellow rind rind protects the straw-yellow. round 140 Size D. who House of Habsburg. Nosiola Spagnolli or Refrontolo Passito. One of the home of Parmigiano Reggiano. Trentingrana. Even today. drum Weight and Shape 17lb 10oz–261⁄2lb (50–500g). or woody hints. Toma. and tomino (small cheeses). mainly small cylinder Size D. the milk used comes by a cheesemaker and her nephew. Novara Producer Various Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Caseiﬁcio degli Altipiani del Vezzena di Lavarone . Piemonte ITALY Emilia-Romagna ITALY Lavarone. cheese is mild with a sweet acidity. is a hard. Vezzena was the preferred cheese of the their own unique character. inside. and Franz Joseph I best-known is Tomino di Melle. or mixed Milk Cow (9–12cm) Classiﬁcation Soft white Classiﬁcation Hard Milk Cow Producer Luigi Guffanti. with its small holes. with a hint of toasted seeds. Try it with a white striking Diano d’Alba Superiore. garlic. and minced anchovies. 12–16in (30–40cm). a tomato sauce with parsley. Trentino-Alto Adige Age 1–3 days. They created times. 21⁄2–3in (6–7cm) (20–22cm) Size D. brittle interior with a sweet.500m) sales of this cheese are controlled by above sea level and is much sought after. 1876. made brought to the Non Valley the art of of Austria wanted it on his table at all with whole milk and invented in 1889 making grana cheese. Team it with a HOW TO ENJOY Serve aged Vezzena on its Rocca Giovino Dolcetto d’Alba. sometimes 10 days Age 1–2 years Age 4–12 months Weight and Shape 13⁄4–1lb 2oz Weight and Shape 77lb (35kg). or the sparkling white Ferrari Riserva or a own or with fruit. Tome. HOW TO ENJOY Typically used to make and spiced meat broth. 14–15in (35–38cm). springy the Trentingrana Cheese Consortium. it has a strong aroma. hard vegetal. mainly of green and fermented grass bagnet. It is a HOW TO ENJOY Grate over salads and perfect match for lively reds such as pasta or vegetables. a dairyman from Trentino In the Austro-Hungarian Empire. TASTING NOTES This supple. H. Sweet and I T A LY fruity taste and hints of cooked butter pleasant-tasting. or Tomini Trentingrana PDO Vezzena There are over 20–30 different tome In 1926. sweet Vin Santo di Nosiola. Arona. nutty. 31⁄2–5in Milk Cow. 8–81⁄2in (8–12kg). each with married a dairywoman from Mirandola. H. 51⁄2–91⁄2in (13–24cm). (Goldenmuskateller). As a result. and is 141 sweet taste.More Cheeses Agrì di Valtorta Bauernkäse or Though rarely found outside the small Lagundo of Italy valley where it has been made for centuries. or Marsala Vergine Riesling Renano or sparkling Brut white Valcalepio wine. 3–4in (8–10cm) Weight and Shape 17lb 10oz (8kg). ITALY Trentino-Alto Adige squat cone Age 2 months. its TASTING NOTES The added saffron gives a citrusy. taste to this delicate cheese. creamy. It is thoughout the white or straw-colored creamy with a slightly sour. but is also available seasonally or because stand before being salted by hand. ﬂat wheel Size D. H. It is virtually shape. 3in (7cm). di Terre Arse. known as Bauernkäse. or truncated cone Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg). tradition of Italian farmhouse types. 1 ⁄2–2in (3–4cm). brick Milk Cow. dry A classic fresh summer cheese made Affectionately known in southern Italy crust. Pair it with Leone de and accompany it with a glass of bread. they are produced in very TASTING NOTES Soft in texture. then. 6in (15cm). coagulation the curds are being washed. is a recent addition to the ranks only with milk from cows grazing on as the “hockey puck” for its ﬂat. Age 2 months Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–21⁄4oz small cylindrical form. during which time it goat’s milk. which is German for farmhouse cheese. but as they butter aroma and a tang in the taste. Soured whey is used to curdle the milk. made from a combination of ewe’s and It can be matured. 3–4in (8–10cm) Size D. depending on the protection of the Slow Food Presidium. HOW TO ENJOY Usually used fresh in Mediterranean salads. Hausmannhof Riserva. H. ﬂavor is enhanced by generous milky ﬂoral aroma and a sweet. and of sweet milk when fresh. better after 6 months 1 Size D. 11⁄2–3in Size D. round of Italian cheeses. (Weissburgunder) or Moscato Giallo So. it develops a marked brown rind from The following cheeses are rare. ripening time. tangy. this cheese comes from a strong from the Badia valley in which it was rindless and is a reddish-yellow in color. read. hard when ripened Producer Various Producer Various Producer Various . H. with a smooth. straw-colored will develop a brownish-yellow rind paste of Bela Badia becomes intense and an intense aromatic ﬂavor. it is full-ﬂavored with a sweet. or grated over HOW TO ENJOY Eat this cheese grilled HOW TO ENJOY Eaten fresh with crusty pasta when aged. Lagundo is the village either because they are only put into small ricotta molds and left to in which it ﬁrst originated. paste. TASTING NOTES It has a very mild aroma with time and has a fresh. after. Monaci Classiﬁcation Semi-soft or hard Sebastiano Producer Small farmers I T A LY Bela Badia Bernardo Cacioricotta This soft cheese. and pungent when aged. savory taste. milky aroma with hints of aromatic TASTING NOTES With irregular eyes it has proved impossible to herbs and mountain grasses. It takes its name high Alpine pastures. goat Size Various Classiﬁcation Fresh Milk Cow Producer Latteria Sociale. and seek out. ﬂat wheel (500g–1kg). vegetables or spread on fresh bread. onto potatoes. As the cheese is chewed. it has a remote areas. Lombardia Age From 3 days Weight and shape 13⁄4–31⁄2oz (50–100g). it pairs well with a red or a Castris Messapia. until 2–3 months ITALY Trentino-Alto Adige Age 10–15 days Weight and Shape 14oz–2lb 1⁄4oz (400g–1kg). Made from cow’s milk. Try with Pinot Bianco we are including them. and is appreciated for its high due to the addition of a little saffron It is half ricotta and half fresh cheese. TASTING NOTES The light. slightly bitter and grass hints. are important and interesting HOW TO ENJOY Eat on its own with examples of Italian cheese. savor. created. H. 2in (5cm) (4–7cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Goat and ewe Classiﬁcation Fresh or semi-soft Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Fresh. HOW TO ENJOY Eat with rye bread or melt Good with aromatic Bianco Valcalepio. ITALY Valtorta. lactic bacteria content. photograph them. ITALY Puglia and Basilicata ITALY Lombardy Age From 2–3 weeks. it now comes under the This cheese ranges from semi-soft to ﬁrm in consistency. powder to the curds during production. With a sweet sweet. types: those made in the high mountain Bergkäse. and citrus fruit. cheese. young. It has mild vegetal and ﬂoral aromas. Tufo. TASTING NOTES Under the yellow-orange TASTING NOTES Refreshing with a sweet. 4–6in Size D. but since Campana PDO This Celtic-named cheese dates back to it is produced in a bilingual area. rind is a straw-yellow paste that has a friable. H.5kg). waxy rind is or. Trentino-Alto Adige Age 1–2 days Age 4–12 months Age 60–70 days Weight and Shape. ITALY Puglia and Sicily ITALY Basilicata Age 2–10 months Age 6 months or more ITALY Faicchio. it has an aroma of cut mature. Silter comes in two also has German names of Pustertaler. Bolzano Producer Various Producer Romelli Giacomo. The mountain cheese has more vegetal 142 rind is a white paste with irregular slightly acidic ﬂavor and a delicate and ﬂoral aromas. or light and fruity red wines. Canestrato di Vacca Pecorino di Filiano Pecorino di Laticauda and di Pecora PDO This hard cheese is named after the Named after the rush basket (canestro) An ancient cheese that is made in Laticauda breed of sheep that was in which it is made. 21⁄2–4in Size D. grilled with butter. used to produce milk instead of cows. produced in the Puster Valley. wheel (500g–2.5–5kg). this cheese is the Basilicata region using milk from introduced from Africa in the 18th coagulated or curdled with kid rennet. It goes well with Greco di maritato. when treated with oil and vinegar. it becomes pungent. 1lb 2oz–51⁄2lb Weight and Shape 22–44lb (10–20kg). H. grated over artichokes and in delicious local cheese pasta. HOW TO ENJOY Use in many Italian HOW TO ENJOY It is a delicious ingredient recipes. or Hocpustertaler. The ﬁrm. buffalo are the 17th century. then crossed with the local The curd is still manipulated by hand cheeses are ripened in local caves. Faicchio. 5in (12cm) (6–10cm) (8–18cm) Milk Ewe Milk Cow Milk Ewe Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Azienda Torre Vecchia. Pagliarola race. It is because they adapted better to the pasture. Pair noodles. TASTING NOTES Cow’s-milk Canestrato is brown-yellow rind imprinted with the grainy. becoming salty and nutty when pattern of the basket molds. native Gentile di Puglia ewes. cheese has hints of hay and dry fruits. crumbly texture when aged. Try with Vino Bianco Avignonesi vegetables. 14in (35cm). The taste grainy texture. 8in (20cm). and those made in the valley. in béchamel sauce. This from Pustertaler Sprinzen cattle. cylinder drum Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg). 31⁄2in (9cm) Size Various (10–15cm) Milk Cow Milk Buffalo Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Milkon Alto Adige. becoming bitter and pungent. ITALY High Camonica and Sebino Valley. or grated over boiled fava and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. is more aromatic and has a nutty small eyes. H. Age 3–6 months (1.5–8kg). wheel Weight and Shape 20lb (9kg). while the Pecora (ewe’s milk) crunchy paste is light yellow with very grass. Producer Various Producer Various Benevento I T A LY Pusteria Ricotta di Bufala Silter Its Italian name is Pusteria. Until cheese uses whey left over from making TASTING NOTES Under a brownish-yellow 1800 it was made only in summer. Try it with white Falanghina in cannelloni alla zucca (cannelloni HOW TO ENJOY It is used in Spätzle Spumante. or red Palummo Passito. or use to stuff and ﬁll HOW TO ENJOY Use in salads. Campania Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz–17lb 10oz 1 Weight and Shape 5 ⁄2–11lb (2. beans. drum Size D. it In some Italian regions. ﬁlled with pumpkin and Silter). 3–7in Size D. basket mold Size D. mainly humid climate and poor grazing. Pedena-Breno . Try serving it with sparkling white Franciacorta with Muller Thurgau. and HOW TO ENJOY Serve fresh as a table strongly aromatic when mature. H. salty. or Sagrantino Passito. Millesimato. and salty taste. The century. H. or in stuffed HOW TO ENJOY Used in the dish pecorino pies. in the traditional way that dates back to the days of the Roman Empire. Pair with local red wines. Sweet and buttery when aroma at around six months. 14–151⁄2in (35–40cm). wild ﬂowers. 6–10in (15–25cm). yellow-orange over an ivory white. Mozzarella di Bufala Campana. while the valley eyes and an elastic texture. 8–14in (20–35cm). is sweet. TASTING NOTES It has a golden-yellow TASTING NOTES The thin. ITALY Lazio Lombardia ITALY Bolzano. and friable paste. 3–4in (200–500g). with fresh lactic notes. this is made with ewe’s milk. yellow rind the base of the cheese-shaping dish.Squacquarone di Stelvio or Stilfser PDO Stracciata Romagna PDO This washed-rind cheese takes its name This artisan cheese is produced by In 1CE. and is used to ﬁll sciatt. ITALY Valle D’Aosta ITALY Lombardia ITALY Sicilia Age 2–10 months Age 2–4 months Age 2–3 days Weight and Shape 21⁄4–151⁄2in (1–7kg). TASTING NOTES The ﬁne white rind covers juniper. compact. Savignano sul Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Fresh Rubiconde Producer Milkon Alto Adige. this isolated valley in the Alps. HOW TO ENJOY Eat as an appetizer with a spinach or cabbage soup. 12–17 ⁄2in (30–45cm). wheel (500–700g). dry red wine such as Enfer d’Arvier. becomes aromatic after a few days with stronger and more aromatic when aged. covers a dense but creamy interior. and springy texture. supple. using milk Unlike other Italian pasta ﬁlata hard cheese is made using morning and from Bruna Alpina cows. Best glass of Regaleali Tasca d’Almerita. sweet-ﬂavored milk. long cylinder or ball Milk Cow (8–10cm) Size Various Classiﬁcation Fresh Milk Cow Milk Cow Producer Caseiﬁcio Pascoli. HOW TO ENJOY It is the basic ingredient HOW TO ENJOY Grate onto toast or into of pizzoccheri. of hay and steamed vegetables. leaving a taste like warm of sweet and sour with citrus hints. hints of herbs and ﬂowers. it is sour-ﬂavor becomes salty when aged. along with beef marrow. ITALY Stelvio National Park. and a glass with a dry white Albana di Romagna. Pair it used in barley or lentil soups. Pair it with a stuffed buckwheat pancakes. of Locorotondo Spumante. Its sweet-and. H. cylinder 1 Size D. known for cheeses. It easily melts a creamy. TASTING NOTES It has a yellow-orange to orange-brown rind and straw-yellow TASTING NOTES A shining. Gaius Petronius Arbiter. Since it is made in a bilingual folded and shaped. 141⁄2–15in (36–38cm). evening milk. The result is a name means “without consistence. 6–61⁄2in (15–17cm). fatty paste which is sold because it is mousselike and easily as it is or used to ﬁll burrata cheese. Emilia–Romagna Age 2–4 months ITALY Puglia Age 1–4 days Weight and Shape 17lb 10oz–22lb Age 1–2 days Weight and Shape 21⁄4–61⁄2lb (1–3kg) (8–10kg). melts in the mouth.” area. or Lagrein Dunkel. straw-yellow. Weight and Shape 15lb 7oz–261⁄2lb Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–1lb 7oz wheel (7–12kg). H. irregular eyes. Vastedda is derived from vasta. then left to stand before their excellent. Stelvio is also known as Stilfser. with aromatic hints melted butter. 3–4in Size D. 1–11⁄2in (5–20cm) (8–10cm) (3–4cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Ewe Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Fresh Producer Various Producer Various Producer Various . The ﬂavor is sour and sweet and 143 slightly sweet taste that becomes notes. di Puglia Liquoroso. or teamed with a red Sassella Negri. buttery aroma. HOW TO ENJOY Traditionally it is used to HOW TO ENJOY Serve this refreshing stuff pasta. cumin. or Aleatico or a red such as Sangiovese Superiore. or wild fennel. high-moisture texture. and a balance Its sweet-sour ﬂavor is sometimes in the mouth. called this cheese been traded in the Tirol since medieval then stretched into ribbons that are caseum mollem. very moist. it paste with irregular holes. sweet. Some cheeses breed. soft supple with tiny holes and has a The aromatic ﬂavor has honey and ﬂoral paste. the from the highest Alpine pass and has cutting or tearing the curd. cylinder Weight and Shape 7oz–1lb 2oz Size Various Size D. pleasantly bitter. white. but HOW TO ENJOY Often melted on polenta or summer cheese as a main dish with try it simply in a fresh salad. 2–8in Size D. with TASTING NOTES Often ﬂavored with small. an del Belice PDO Well known in the 15th century. TASTING NOTES The thin. fresh. Vallée d’Aosta Donnas. contain up to 10 percent goat’s milk. in particular from the local Belice the cream is skimmed off. H. Merlot Kretzer. and a cheese. H. which is author of Satyricon. a shiny. sometimes with a bitter ﬁnish. Bolzano Producer Various I T A LY Valle D’Aosta Valtellina Casera PDO Vastedda della Valle Fromadzo PDO This cheese is made in Valtellina. creamy TASTING NOTES A shining white cheese. In the local dialect the times. Stracciata is mild and sweet has a very soft. 6–12in (15–30cm). Lombardia ITALY Bologna. Pair with fresh salad and tomatoes. LA RIOJA Pata de Mulo. Taramundi San Simón da Costa ★. BAY OF BISCAY La Peral ASTURIAS Afuega’l Pitu ★. las Garmillas GALICIA Casín ★. Cantabria★. VASCO Arúza-Ulloa ★. Roncal ★ Ibérico. Camerano ★ Zamorano ★ VIANA DO CASTILLA Y LEÓN CASTELO Beato de Tábara VILA REAL Cañarejal BRAGA Cabra Transmontano ★ BRAGANÇA PORTO Cabra Transmontano ★ Zamorano ★ ARAGÓN Tronchón AVEIRO Serra da Estrela ★ VISEU GUARDA PORTUGAL Monte Enebro SPAIN COIMBRA MADRID LEIRIA CASTELO BRANCO Los Montes de Toledo Castelo Branco ★ SANTARÉM CASTILLA-LA MANCHA Ibérico. Cabrales ★. PORTALEGRE LISBOA Manchego ★ Nisa ★ EXTREMADURA Ibores ★. Picón Bejes Tresviso ★ PAÍS Gamonedo ★. Liébana★. Valdeón ★ NAVARRA Tetilla ★ N Idiazábal ★. Cebreiro ★ CANTABRIA Pasiego de Ahumado de Pría. ÉVORA Tortas Extremeñas Évora ★ SETÚBAL Cabra Ruﬁno Azeitão ★ Azores BEJA Murcia al Vino ★ Serpa ★ Payoyo MURCIA ANDALUCÍA FARO GOLFO DE CÁDIZ ATLANTIC OCEAN COSTA DEL SOL Madeira Islas Canarias COSTA DE LA LUZ MEDITERRANEAN SEA GIBRALTAR . Castellano. however. That protection and the harsh climate meant that cheese played a very minor role in MEDITERRANEAN SEA Portuguese cuisine. Vandals. and most used (and still do) the thistle or cardoon to curdle the rich milk of the hardy sheep. or the migration of shepherds. With the boom of the economy and the tourist industry since the 1960s. Tupi PORTUGAL With the Atlantic Ocean to the west and high mountains to the east. During L’Alt Urgell y La Cerdanya ★ modern times. SPAIN AND 100 miles PORTUGAL 100 km SPAIN During the 9th century. This movement of animals and shepherds helped Tou del Til•lers spread the science of cheesemaking across the country. DOP. or PDO cheeses Produced only here Produced throughout the region Tronchón PAÍS VALENCIANO ISLAS CANARIAS MADEIRA AZORES LANZAROTE CORVO Palmero ★ TENERIFE PORTO SANTO FLORES GRACIOSA Ilha Graciosa LA PALMA Majorero ★ TERCEIRA São Jorge ★ MADEIRA SÃO JORGE GOMERA FUERTEVENTURA FAIAL Herreño Flor de Guîa DESERTA GRANDE HIERRO GRAN CANARIA CCO ATLANTIC OCEAN SÃO MIGUEL ATLANTIC OCEAN RO ATLANTIC OCEAN BUGIO MO SANTA MARIA . Portugal has seen a revival of artisan cheeses and cheesemaking. carved wood. transhumance has almost disappeared. but in the late 20th century. It can now boast around ILLES 15 cheeses that qualify for PDO and PGI status. When livestock populations grew. as well as the introduction of Mahón ★ bigger manufacturing plants. when many rural people and their livestock took refuge with the monasteries. Many of the cheese shapes or patterns originated from whatever Bauma Carrat local materials were available: ceramic bowls of the Levante. Benasque Benabarre sycamore leaves. PGI. although artisan cheesemaking was almost Garrotxa. Those cheeses that were made. Peña Blanca de Corrales BALEARS GOLFO DE VALENCIA Key ★ AOC. Portugal was protected from invasion by Goths. ANDORRA which led to the rise of transhumance. cheese experienced a well-deserved CATALUÑA resurgence. and Moors. were exceptional. monks became the principal producers of cheese. entirely replaced by large cooperatives. or even grass belts. DOC. the monasteries needed more pastures. 5in (12cm). buttery. The most striking huts in high summer pastureland that and is the initiative of a cooperative version has its curd seasoned by hot is also famed for its sweet butter. and served with Muscat grape jelly. it is HOW TO ENJOY Fresh white Afuega’l Pitu delicious with the fruity white wines of HOW TO ENJOY Melts well in gratins and has a thick. and the initial impression is mild and variety has a seriously ﬁery ﬁnish. Cataluña Age Fresh 7 days. 71⁄2–8in (191⁄2–20cm) (8–12cm) Milk Cow. then fried and pairs extremely well with a chilled variety needs a dry sherry. The dusty red pimentón on mountain pastures.SPAIN Afuega’l Pitu DOP Ahumado de Pría L’Alt Urgell y La A small. dry cava or fruity or sweet white wines. HOW TO ENJOY Ideal with an aperitif. H. is made from acidiﬁed heady aromas of cow’s milk produced of grassy meadows. excellent with jam or honey. and breadcrumbs. meaning and oak. yogurty consistency and is Galicia. dairy that is famous for its Cadí butter. H. but with unexpected depth. TASTING NOTES Afuega’l Pitu. creamy northern Cerdanya DOP exterior shaped into a cone or a cheese with an orange rind. (200–600g). this was This tender and approachable cheese pumpkin. added ewe cream to complement the TASTING NOTES The aroma is reminiscent creamy texture. white curd. 3–5in Size D. 3–5½in (8–14cm). Weight and Shape 41⁄2–51⁄2lb (2–21⁄2kg). SPAIN Asturias SPAIN Asturias SPAIN La Seu d’Urgell. the hot cumin. 4in (10cm) Size D. with pimentón 2 months Age 2–6 months Age 6–12 weeks Weight and Shape 7oz–1lb 5oz Weight and Shape 1lb 5oz (600g). with ewe cream Milk Cow Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Flavor-added Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Flavor-added Producer Various Producer La Cooperativa del Cadi Producer Various .” after its tart. the cheese develops a S PA I N A N D P O R T U G A L and is matured for two months. hand in a cloth. TASTING NOTES Matured for two months thin. pimentón (Spanish smoked paprika) Washed in brine. the paste is springy. cone or pumpkin cylinder round 146 Size D. sauces for vegetable and ﬁsh dishes. leathery orange-red rind and before being gently smoked over beech small holes in the pale interior. wrinkled cheese with a sticky A lightly smoked. or try it dipped in cinnamon. Afuega’l Pitu is molded by originally made in smoky shepherd’s hails from the high Catalan Pyrenees. allowing the fragrance of “stick in the throat. or pumpernickel bread. H. moist interior. while the bright white paste brings you S PA I N quiet conﬁdence on the palate. acquiring cheese. 4–6in (10–15cm).5kg). 2–5in (3cm) Size D. Castilla y León Age 15–30 days Age 15–21 days Age 60–100 days Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–7lb 11oz Weight and Shape 14oz (400g). or after Pairs well with a white Ribeiro wine. manuscripts of the monastery at San make it.Arzúa-Ulloa DOP Bauma Carrat Beato de Tábara An elegant round cheese with a waxy Toni Chueca and Rose Heras left the Santiago León Lucas and his sons clean yellow rind and a soft. and is fresh yet luxuriously creamy. W. H. or spread the perfect Catalan match would be HOW TO ENJOY To be true to the monastic cheese like butter onto whole-grain. 4in (10cm). by hand. TASTING NOTES Fragile and striking. milky ﬂavors develop with distinct but not strong goaty taste. H. square Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–21⁄4lb (500g–3. hence its name. its unexpectedly mild. it remains the from their own herds. more like butter white. and its simply on breadsticks. 1in (500g–1kg). An elegant and HOW TO ENJOY Ripe tomatoes alone are exceptional cheese. it is deeply aromatic. HOW TO ENJOY Relish its gentle ﬂavors excellent partners for Carrat. Cataluña SPAIN San Martin de Tábara. it is sourdough. its sweet. Various on making the cheeses. green purity of the cheese’s inspiration. SPAIN Galicia SPAIN Borreda. round Size L. but now focus de la Culebra and make this artisan most popular within Galicia. cylinder Size D. dinner with a refreshing Riesling. 21⁄2–3in 147 (5–12cm) Milk Goat (6–7cm) Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Milk Goat Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Formatge Bauma SL Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various Producer Santiago León Lucas . almost city in 1980 to make cheese using milk shepherd their own ﬂock in the Sierra squishy. smooth interior. 4in (10cm). escalivada—grilled eggplant. with a take you to dark underground spaces. peppers. the TASTING NOTES Although the paste is deep black ash rind protects the bright TASTING NOTES Cool on the palate. and Aragón olives—with a best appreciated on its own. inspired by the illustrated artisan producers near the Ulla River excellent milk from a single farmer. fruity white wine such as Alella. 4–10in (10–26cm). smooth. Martín de Tábara. The paste stone-gray rind and aroma of cellars than cheese. back to the meadows. a strong is compact. round Weight and Shape 1lb 5oz–8lb 13oz (400–600g) or 51⁄2–61⁄2lb (2. accompanied best served simply with fresh crusty best sampled at the end of a meal with by a good red Somontano wine and a white bread and a glass of the local a dry Asturian cider.5–3kg). as even young bowl of dark Aragón olives. on a family-run farm. The cheese is shaped like a The cattle graze on natural mountain Its original maple-leaf covering has pumpkin and possesses the size and pastures. drum 148 Size L. square Size D. and wild herbs. 2–3in (5–7cm) (600g–4kg). dry food. Somontano wine. mold-rich caves the Pyrenees facing the valleys of Aran. 3–4in (11–23cm). Cabrales will overwhelm most pairings. The paste moist yet crumbly. and goat Producer Quesería el Benasques Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Blue Producer Quesos Benabarre Producer Various . H. supplemented with a diet of now been replaced by green foil. Aragón SPAIN Asturias Age 14–60 days Age 3–6 months Age 3 months minimum Weight and Shape 14oz–1lb 5oz Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg). 2–3in (5–8cm) (7–10cm) Classiﬁcation Hard Milk Goat Milk Cow. or of the rugged. the TASTING NOTES Hand-molded and slowly streaked with blue veins and punctuated natural molds on the rind develop matured in underground cellars. soft gray rind TASTING NOTES Matured in cellars envelops a creamy paste that is heavily ventilated by clean mountain air. ensuring that milk quality remains consistent year-round. HOW TO ENJOY A well-rounded cheese HOW TO ENJOY This very strong cheese is HOW TO ENJOY Serve simply. where mixed herds pasture. acorns. H. 41⁄2–9in Milk Cow Size D. Although the aromas of fresh mushrooms. TASTING NOTES The thin. 6–81⁄2in (15–22cm). SPAIN Benabarre. pastured. with a hint of salt cheese’s aroma is a touch fetid. it is with irregular cavities. Benabarre Benasque Cabrales DOP Blessed with an absolutely stunning Produced in the stunning Benasque A notorious strictly artisan blue cheese setting. this dairy sits in the foothills of valley in the heart of the Pyrenees. hazelnuts. S PA I N A N D P O R T U G A L weight of a small rock. ewe. matured in the damp. creaminess comes through. isolated Picos de Europa where its herds of Granadina goats are hidden valley. 41⁄2–9in (11–23cm). W. tangy ﬁnish. also known as the Valle Escondido. mountains. Aragón SPAIN Huesca. revealing ﬂavors of and a full-bodied strong. H. 5in (12cm). particularly creamy. making the cheese only in spring and summer. Santos’ ﬂock of robust Awassi sheep. Very aromatic. it has a typical bitter ﬁnish. Castilla y León Age 60–120 days Age 7 days fresh. genuine spicy bite. relaxing in the served simply with toasted pistachios. TASTING NOTES Seasonality and aging texture of the cheese itself is close. Extremadura SPAIN Munilla. La Rioja SPAIN Pollos. ﬂavors. with a teaspoon or breadsticks. moist paste and a strong. or expose the silky interior. or quince when young. 2–21⁄2in 149 H. Figuerola. This artisan torta. SPAIN Oliva de la Frontera. Queso de Cabra Ruﬁno. Size D. The best are molds and aged for up to two months. made in the fall. 60 days cured Age 2–3 months Weight and Shape 1lb 5oz (600g). grapes. The TASTING NOTES Made with thistle rennet. It is local Bar Ruﬁno. 41⁄2–6in (11. when the goats enjoy this is a resolutely artisan cheese made It is produced using milk from the the local acorns.5–10cm) (5–6cm) Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Goat Milk Ewe Producer Quesos Artesanos Ruﬁno Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Quesería la Aulaga Producer Cañarejal SL . served with caramelized onions. H. round Weight and Shape 1lb 5oz (600g). Weight and Shape 9oz–1lb 2oz Size Various drum (250–500g). to unctuous in the fall. this is the brainchild of Monica northern version of the more famous Each piece is methodically turned. with country-style country bread. Its full name is which graze the local grasslands. earthy S PA I N dense and compact with a crumbly yet ﬂavors of goat and mountain herbs. Shaped in traditional wicker Torta La Serena. also delicious melted on a rare steak bread and a strong wine or beer. this is the creamiest of all the Spanish affect the cheese. and checked daily. HOW TO ENJOY Eaten as a dessert with HOW TO ENJOY Open the thin rind to honey. TASTING NOTES The natural mold has a powerful aroma of mushrooms. the local sheep-farming Santos family. and a young Rioja wine. and scoop out HOW TO ENJOY Ideally. was an initiative of washed. 2–4in (5. round Milk Goat Size D. 4–5in (10–12cm). which ranges from and dissolves on the palate into subtle tortas.Cabra Ruﬁno Camerano DOP Cañarejal For 40 years the Ruﬁno family has Also known as La Aulaga Camerano.5–15cm). with soft. a contemporary been aging these ﬁve-day-old tortas. drum 150 Milk Cow Size D. Weight and Shape 41⁄2–61⁄2lb Size D. sometimes with creamy-looking paste is oddly grainy. suggests rancid butter. 41⁄2-71⁄2in (11–19cm). round Weight and Shape 9oz–21⁄4lb (250g–1kg). SPAIN Cantabria SPAIN Asturias SPAIN Castilla y León Age Minimum 15 days Age 60 days Age 2–6 months Weight and Shape 11lb (5kg). this was originally made in meadows to provide milk for one of the its brand name. 11⁄2–3in Size D. it gains hides a pale interior. jelly or paste. 4in (10cm) (pictured) hemisphere (2–3kg). H. 4–8in (10–20cm). before they León region produces the best. making Casín a very attractive or Priorato. Casín’s peculiar grainy paste. from the abundant dairy cattle found are kneaded into shape to produce creamiest ewe’s milk in Spain. ﬂavor of sheep and an intense ﬁnish. sweet. with a dense. HOW TO ENJOY Producers imprint their HOW TO ENJOY An aperitif cheese ideal HOW TO ENJOY Eat on crusty toast with name on the cheese with a wooden with bold red wines such as Somontano chestnut honey. 3–4in (4–7cm) (8–10cm) Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Cow Milk Ewe Producer Various Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various Producer Various . Castellano cheese can the Cóbreces Cistercian monastery. board. 8in (20cm). but oldest cheeses in Asturias. S PA I N A N D P O R T U G A L pasturing in sheltered green valleys. a tart ﬁnish. stamp. it is also excellent with Also ideal picnic fare with a salad and option to serve whole on a cheese unsalted nuts and dried fruit. The unique actually be of outstanding character is now produced by numerous small and recipe involves repeated rolling of the when made well because the Castilla y medium-sized family dairies using milk curds during the ﬁrst week. or fresh pears and apples. quince. Cantabria DOP Casín DOP Castellano Also known as Queso Nata de Casina cattle feed on lush mountain Little known and understood mainly by Cantabria. or apple jelly. the taste is very piquancy and a smooth texture that springy texture and a mellow. quince a dry white or young red wine. ﬁery and oily on the palate. H. TASTING NOTES When aged for six months TASTING NOTES Its smooth waxy rind TASTING NOTESWith a strong smell that and made with raw milk. H. The dense. Best enjoyed with beer or cider. reveals a distinct caramelized onion and buttery ﬂavor. 11⁄2–21⁄2in Size D. H. the curd spills over the top. Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–15lb 7oz (300g–2kg). 81⁄2–12in (22–30cm). revealing S PA I N It has a fresh. chef’s hat wheel (500g–7kg). 4–12in (10–30cm). Galicia SPAIN Gran Canaria. SPAIN Lugo. salt. thistle rennet on the ﬁnish. and a hoop slipped over the top to hold cheese develops gently rounded sides. pressed. Gamonedo del Valle is a pairs with chilled young Albariño wine. 31⁄2–6in (9–15cm). elegant- it in position. enough. with some ewe or goat Producer Queixerias Castelo de Branas. Flor de Guía has an unctuous. 3in (7cm) Size D. this cheese from the Picos de Europa and béchamel sauce. Islas Canarias SPAIN Cangas de Onis and Onis. or use in gratins fruity white wines from Galicia. Although this blue mountain cheese is sturdy mushroom. releasing its mildly acidic. lightly acidic yogurt ﬂavor and the typical bitterness of hints of damp mushroom. with an aroma of warm butter. jams such as those made from berries. HOW TO ENJOY Serve with honey and fruit HOW TO ENJOY This rare treat complements HOW TO ENJOY Relish the rustic ﬂavor of jams and preserves. since the hoop is not tall looking rind and less blue veining. Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Blue Carmen Arrojo Valcarcel Xan Busto Producer Various Producer Various . drum Size D. and a tang. TASTING NOTES This cheese blues lightly TASTING NOTES The fresh white paste is rich texture that melts in the mouth. and it has a harder. more accomplished cheese. Asturias Age 3–7 days Age 2–3 weeks Age 3–5 months Weight and Shape 10oz–41⁄2lb Weight and Shape 41⁄2–11lb (2–5kg). in patches closer to the hard dry rind moist and close-textured but granular. the before it is placed in the natural caves. milder. it overshadowed by its neighbor Cabrales found away from its mountain home in is named Flor de Guía (thistle ﬂower) (see p150). The characteristic shape is after the local thistle used to coagulate character because it is lightly smoked achieved when the curd is put in a bag the milk. and fruit mountains. Cebreiro is rarely curiously only ever made by women. H. nutty aftertaste of hazelnuts. H. 21⁄2–6in 151 Milk Cow (4–6cm) (6–15cm) Classiﬁcation Fresh Milk Ewe and cow Milk Cow. TASTING NOTES Creamiest of all Canarian cheeses. Shaped with a grass belt. Cebreiro happily tropical fruit such as bananas. it still has quite an individual Galicia.Cebreiro DOP Flor de Guía Gamonedo DOP Reminiscent in shape of a chef’s hat or An exceptional and very rare cheese. aromatic and has a gentle spikiness. and lastly. This practice used in many recipes. Age 20 days–10 months Weight and Shape 3lb 4oz (1. from the Spanish continues. Balearic Islands humidity. SPAIN Menorca. Menorca. Mahón comes matured by the skillful aﬁnadores from the Balearic Island of Menorca. wooden racks in underground caves where the aﬁnador carefully controls the temperature. mouth-puckering bite. Known as recogedor-aﬁnador olive oil and topped with a sprig of fresh (“gatherer-ripener”). the best-known aﬁnador rice wine). and ﬂow of fresh air. Mahón DO A CLOSER LOOK Mahón is lovingly nurtured and Granted Denomination of Origin status in 1985. it is extremely versatile and is unique microclimate. with invasions by the Carthaginians. French. who introduced the Friesian cow. Arabs. and of the cheese. cooperatives and has an unexpectedly However. it is hard and slightly granular. which brings out the personality where the airﬂow. they ripened the rosemary. the ﬂavor increases and the texture becomes ﬁrmer. in the 18th century. THE RACKS The cheeses are stored on is Nicolás Cardona. started taking HOW TO ENJOY Traditionally the farmers’ cheese in exchange for served as an appetizer. from which the cheese whose skill is to bring out the takes its name. the British. Romans. TASTING NOTES At 20–60 days it is supple. like all hard 152 humidity provided the cheese with a cheeses. individual methods. with about 300 family. and mild. and has an aroma and taste of peaches with a sea-salt ﬁnish. reputation to the local merchants who. The more owned dairy farms selling their matured or cured Mahón pairs well milk to the big cooperatives. or añejo. However. omelet to tapas and pastries. best in each cheese. not unlike Parmigiano-Reggiano (see pp128–129). semi- cured at 2–5 months. at 5–10 months. H. temperature. it owes its international sharp. drizzled with goods. Serve it alongside a glass of young cheeses in underground caves sherry. cured. in the late 1800s. with beer or even sake (Japanese Today. The tiny island has a who buy the generic young cheeses and age them according to their own colorful history. Records show that Mahón was more piquant style with its red label Interior traded around the Mediterranean and bright orange rind is made in from about the 13th century.5kg). The harder. 2in (5cm) Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various . Port of Mahón. square cushion Size D. Green-labeled Mahón is S PA I N A N D P O R T U G A L made by hand from raw milk on small farms and ﬁnished by an aﬁnador. buttery. 8in (20cm). All aged Mahón is speckled with small. caused by the fermentation that happens as the cheese ripens. and olive oil into the rind to enhance its Exterior appearance and prevent mold. CLOTH PRESSING The young artisanal cheese is wrapped in cloth (fogasser) and tied by its corners. The upper surface of matured artisanal Mahón bears the pattern of the creases and folds of the fogasser. S PA I N 153 The ocher-yellow color of the rind is created not by bacteria but by rubbing butter. This is pressed manually. paprika. forcing out excess whey and forming the cheese into its distinctive cushion shape. . irregular holes. Islas Canarias SPAIN Castilla-La Mancha and Castilla y León Age 2–4 months Age 10–60 days Age 1 month minimum Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg). goat. it pairs well with white and rosé wines. or pell ﬂorida. 3–5in H. Garrotxa Herreño Ibérico One of the new generation of Spanish Similar cheeses are produced all over Imprinted with the marks of the artisan cheeses to come to prominence these rugged islands under the various woven-basket mold. lines on the rind from the racking.5cm). for a gratin. cow. and ewe Producer Various Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Sociedad Cooperativa Ganaderos Producer Various de El Hierro. melted and served with red or green delicious in a toasted sandwich or used walnuts. usually ﬁg or prickly creamy and mellow from the cow. served with almonds. and ewe’s milk. 31⁄2–10in (8. 21⁄2–31⁄2in (6–8. and delicate ﬂavor. the nation’s consumption of cheese. cylinder (1–31⁄2kg). First smoked. and a robust white Priorat. aged. TASTING NOTES It is bright white and TASTING NOTES The rind is often colored refreshingly acidic when young. and and mushrooms. 6in (15cm). sweet and nutty from the ewe. invokes of light smoke. mojo sauces or in the local cheesecake. 3in (H. unusually smoked Herreño is a satisfying balance brings together the best of each one: chalky for Spanish cheese. HOW TO ENJOY When young. drum 154 Milk Goat Size D. the lingering ﬁnish herbaceous notes from the goat. velveteen rind. 31⁄2–81⁄2in (9–22cm). 7cm) (350g–4kg). pear branches. When of many traditional Spanish cheeses. this is notable for its island names. H. but this one has the most of cow’s. while to indicate age. it is HOW TO ENJOY The ﬂavor changes subtly HOW TO ENJOYIdeal for tapas or at the better with red wines.5cm) (7–12cm) Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Goat. memories of mountain herbs. and ewe Milk Cow. has distinct creamy overtones of goat. but Ibérico is always end of a meal. there are beautiful burnished and makes up more than 50 percent of produced in 1981 by a single maker.5–25. Excellent lightly with the seasons. Ibérico is a blend in recent years. typical subtle goaty ﬂavor and dark gray interesting texture and ﬂavor. goat’s. Valverde . and the blend of milks TASTING NOTES A fresh slice. Size D. walnuts. round Weight and Shape 12oz–8lb 13oz Weight and Shape 21⁄4–7lb 11oz Size D. S PA I N A N D P O R T U G A L Garrotxa is now made by several other artisan cheesemakers in the region. SPAIN Cataluña SPAIN El Hierro. whatever time of year. HOW TO ENJOY Sprinkle a slice with Artisan varieties are a rare treat. and serve with HOW TO ENJOY Serve on a cheese board an aperitif or as a light supper with HOW TO ENJOYTry a Basque recipe such alongside dried fruits and nuts. and straw- S PA I N the cheese’s tangy ﬁnish. are delicious with mountain honey. 2–31⁄2in Size D. 1–4in 155 (5–9cm) (8–12cm) (3–10cm) Milk Goat Milk Ewe Milk Cow and occasionally ewe and goat Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Flavor-added Classiﬁcation Fresh or semi-soft Producer Queserías de las Villuercas. SPAIN Cáceres. 3–5in (8–12cm). they are made with either plain or brushed with olive oil Stored in the rafters of the shepherds’ cow’s or sometimes ewe’s or goat’s milk. 3–5in Size D. Mainly fresh or semi-soft. adding a typically thin. Ideal with a crisp dry white as squid and Idiazabal risotto. lavender. rough. sometimes smoked. Weight and Shape 14oz–1lb 2oz (650g–1. drum drum (400g–500g). 4–12in (10–30cm). The rinds are pimentón rind imparts a warmth to is smoked with beech wood. and oak forests of the area. TASTING NOTES Lemony when fresh.2kg). or serve selection of young wines. and a salad. round Size D. TASTING NOTES Hard and chewy. H.Ibores DOP Idiazabal DOP Liébana DOP A rustic cheese whose roots lie in the This ancient cheese comes from the Small cheeses (quesucos) are made in migrating herds of native Verata and Basque mountains. huts over the summer. light smokiness to the distinctive colored. buttery. simply with Txacoli or a Basque cider. H. Idiazabal made with ewe’s milk. caramel sweetness of the ewe’s milk. lightly toast. with a hint of caramel when and thyme. with aromatic. TASTING NOTES The ﬁrm white paste is but most are supple. Smoking adds piquancy. Young cheeses wine and unsalted nuts. and rich with aromas of broom. H. 41⁄2–6in (11–15cm). or bright white if fresh. pimentón. and pimentón (smoked paprika). it is found returned in the fall with their cheeses. where shepherds each village in the foothills of the Picos Retinta goats and the wild vegetation spent summer in the high pastures and de Europa. Producer Various Producer Various Berrocales Trujillanos . Extremadura SPAIN Navarra SPAIN Cantabria Age 2 months minimum Age 3–6 months Age 2 weeks minimum Weight and Shape 1lb 7oz–21⁄2lb Weight and Shape 21⁄4–61⁄2lb (1–3kg). while the copper-colored tiny holes and a coppery rind. the cheese took on a wood-smoke ﬂavor. 61⁄2in (17cm). sweeter during the spring. 21⁄2–31⁄2in H. Castilla-La Mancha Age 20 days minimum Age 6–8 weeks Age 2–3 months Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb–13lb 4oz Weight and Shape 3lb (1. Majorero DOP Monte Enebro Los Montes de Toledo The scrubby desert landscape of When most would be retiring. a light. Some are rubbed with either modern artisan cheese in Spain to gain provide milk for this soft. rubbed with olive oil. to an assertive. Rafael This is the innovation of a spirited Fuerteventura nourishes the Majorero Báez chose to create this pata de mulo. 21⁄2in (61⁄2cm) Milk Goat (6-9cm) Milk Goat Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Goat Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Producer La Merendera Sociedad Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Queserías del Tiétar Cooperativa Producer SAT Ganaderos de Fuerteventura . individual. Anna Maria Rubio. dry ﬁno. accompanied by Pair with fruity white wine or chilled fondue ﬂavored with orange zest. Young Majorero makes a superb orange-blossom honey. TASTING NOTES A mild cheese with a TASTING NOTES Supple to ﬁrm. cheese. W. add to beet salad. H. 9in (23cm). H. 11⁄2in (4cm) 156 Size D. Toledo Mountains neighbor Ibores. The rind. so local goat bears the imprint pattern of a palm gray and black molds. Size D. It was the ﬁrst farmers joined the cooperative and frond belt. and ranges from creamy fresh with a subtle compressed. or fry white bread with fruits and nuts: served with a minerally white island in tempura batter and serve with pistachios. Castilla y León SPAIN Navalmorales. international recognition. HOW TO ENJOY Traditionally grated into HOW TO ENJOY Savor with a Muscat HOW TO ENJOY Sublime on crusty vegetable soups or summer salads. apples. Majorero TASTING NOTES Dense curds are gently clean aroma and silky texture. white La Mancha wine. and dessert wine. mule’s hoof Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg). goat cheese. and quince paste. 12cm (5in). S PA I N A N D P O R T U G A L paprika or goﬁo (roasted corn ﬂour). SPAIN Fuerteventura. 6–14in (15–35cm). unique torta. almondy sweetness. Islas Canarias SPAIN Ávila. round Size L. through to a more robust over time from a light citric creaminess more acidic with a touch of salt to nutty.4kg). pungent bite. wine. The goats that produce this exceptional or mule’s-hoof-shaped. with its distinctive rind covered in where goats dominate. round (1–6kg). and the ﬂavor matures ﬂavors that vary with the seasons from goaty ﬂavor. aromatic ﬂavor. contemporary standards and available with local Jumilla and Yecla red wines at the weekly market in the town of and also comes in an unwashed version. This cheese is washed weather warms. its interior is distinct. TASTING NOTES Diverse and lush grazing Ampuero and beyond. H. vegetable. where A fragile primitive cheese made goats.Murcia al Vino DOP Palmero DOP Pasiego de las Spain’s Murcia region has a growing Spain’s largest cheese comes from the Garmillas cheese industry based on the native greenest of the Canary Islands. Used for the local quesada pasiega. 3⁄4in (2cm) Size D. gives this lightly smoked cheese a rich TASTING NOTES A washed-curd cheese ﬂavor. soft and fatty. salted lightly fried. HOW TO ENJOY Since Palmero breaks up easily. H. Murcia SPAIN La Palma. Also good on its own with the accompanied by a very cold dry cider. originally from the been honed by genetic selection for moving steadily up the slopes as the valley of Pas. and piquillo peppers. or grilled on toast and sliced alongside ﬁsh. 5–231⁄2in (12–60cm). with an aroma of fresh S PA I N almonds from the rich milk and a yogurt and mountain streams. it is commonly used in local HOW TO ENJOY Its delicate. without a mold. 21⁄2–31⁄2in Size D. Murciano-Granadinas. Palmero is pleasantly crumbly. served with the young white or rosé potatoes. that have the Palmero goat feeds on rich pasture. wines from Jumilla and Yecla. TASTING NOTES So fresh that the pale with a slightly elastic texture and salty. it is now made to more generations. 51⁄2in (14cm). Islas Canarias SPAIN Ampuero. drum (7–15kg). Cantabria Age 3 weeks minimum Age 1–3 months Age 15–20 days Weight and Shape 10oz–41⁄2lb Weight and Shape 15lb 7oz–33lb Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz (500g). slightly winey. ﬂat disk (300g–2 kg). with hints of toasted aroma. wheel Size D. earthy. and anchovies. with a rind has barely formed. fermenting fruit ﬁnish. sweet ﬂavors HOW TO ENJOY Try the cheese in salads. and lightly acidic. H. 3–7in (7–18cm). local mineral-rich Malvasia wines. cuisine grated into mojo sauces or work well with crusty bread. 21⁄2–6in Milk Cow 157 (6–9cm) (6–15cm) Classiﬁcation Fresh Milk Goat Milk Goat Producer Queso Las Garmillas Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Various . SPAIN Jumilla. ﬂattened Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb (2. 61⁄2in (17cm).5kg). with its straw-colored. nutty nose. with hints of toffee. cylindrical oval log Size D. rounded nutty taste. this is an rolled on a table until the typical shape use milk from the Payoyo goats and original recipe using lactic coagulation. H. drum Weight and Shape 5lb (2. Pata de Mulo Payoyo Cabra Curado Peña Blanca de Named “mule’s hoof” because of its Queso Payoyo was established in 1995 Corrales shape. The plain rind can be the texture of fresh curds. coated with lard or paprika. 900m (2. extra virgin olive oil. but the dense paste has palate. then have a wide range of cheeses. and it has a leather. 3in Milk Goat Milk Ewe (8cm) Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Hard Milk Ewe Producer Quesos Artesanales de Villaluenga SL Producer Quesería Los Corrales Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various . 3in (8cm) 158 Size L. ﬂavors: ﬁno or palo cortado sherry. TASTING NOTES A rounded ﬂavor. Thankfully. They An assertive ewe’s-milk cheese with a molded by hand in cheesecloth. wrinkled rind. grainy TASTING NOTES Strictly artisan methods TASTING NOTES The aroma is reminiscent texture. dry sherry or a cold refreshing beer. with hints of of this very Castilian aged ewe’s cheese.They rind of red and ocher molds. fresh crusty bread. this cheese was traditionally by Andrés Peña and Carlos Rios. H. and wines of Ribera del Duero or Navarra. since the late Grazalemeña ewes that roam the and its makers very successfully 1990s. 5in (13cm). H. where it is made. and persistent ﬁnish are typical the Payoyo goat. Andalucía SPAIN Almedíjar. W. HOW TO ENJOY Its restrained piquancy HOW TO ENJOY Attractive for slicing into works well with other Mediterranean salads or displayed on a cheese board.2kg). 4in (10cm) Size D. 71⁄2in (19cm). caramelized onions. production of this disappearing pastures of the Sierra de Grazalema. Espadas. was achieved. capture the terroir of the Sierra de S PA I N A N D P O R T U G A L cheese has been reinvigorated. pairs beautifully with young red or rosé Serve with almonds and a Manzanilla black olives. SPAIN Castilla y León SPAIN Sierra de Grazalema. and wool. Valencia Age 2–6 months Age 3–6 months Age 90 days Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg).750ft) above sea level. ﬁrm texture that reveals a soft. 9in (23cm). light oil on the mean that even the rennet derives from of a Cabrales. it HOW TO ENJOY Ideal with an aperitif. accompanied HOW TO ENJOY Sprinkle with ground white bread and a good Navarran red by either an Asturian cider or a Pedro hazelnuts or serve with prunes. 4–8in (10–21cm). 7in (18cm). 4–41⁄2in 159 (6–13cm) (10–11cm) Classiﬁcation Blue Milk Cow. With age. H. and salt. resulting in an ﬂavor characteristic of cheeses made winter pastures. balance of bite. Navarra Age 60–150 days Age 3–6 months Age 4 months minimum Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg). pungent blue cheese with a distinctive piquancy.to gray-colored rind that bears curdlike cheese has a gentle buttery orange overtones conceals an interior the imprint of the cloth. Size D. fresh mild blue. 21⁄2–5in Size D. then aged in cloth. with Muscat or a sweet red Priorat. Production remains small. in these high peaks. and ewe Milk Ewe Producer Herederos de Antonio León Classiﬁcation Blue Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various Producer Various . Roncal is a popular local dish. this ancient detail control of the herds as they were León’s family. HOW TO ENJOY Savor this cheese with HOW TO ENJOY Serve simply with crusty blackberries and walnuts. H. Asturias SPAIN Cantabria SPAIN Roncal. pair wine or cider.La Peral Picón Bejes Tresviso Roncal DOP This relatively modern foil-wrapped DOP Records for this Pyrenean sheep cheese blue cheese from Asturias is made by From the villages of Bejes and Tresviso date back to the 13th century. butter. A may be hints of dried fruit. TASTING NOTES A sticky yellow rind damp spaces for curing. and the third generation of creator Antonio in the Picos de Europa. salty ﬂavor that veined with dense blue streaks. goat. and routes up and accessibly priced. blue cheese has the hallmark sharp moved between their summer and scale and consistent. a growing develops into a clean. tall cylinder Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–61⁄2lb Weight and Shape 21⁄4–61⁄2lb (1–3kg). TASTING NOTES The light gray rind with straw. there S PA I N smell and a creamy. 31⁄2in (9cm) (500g–3kg). The shiny. H. drum drum Milk Cow with ewe’s cream Size D. very pleasant cheese. SPAIN Illas. and a lingering aftertaste. The cheese is and natural caves provide excellent pressed. covers a pale yellow interior lightly TASTING NOTES Dense with a smooth inked with blue veins. Artichoke gratin with Ximénez sherry. Abandoned mines down the Roncal valley. 6–8in (15–20cm). or—perhaps Age 6–18 months the best combination—with sherry. often upward of 700 at a time. but milking is still largely on the surface and may feel a little to ensure that the ﬁnished cheese is done by hand. slightly salty ﬁnish. lends a nutty sweetness to the dish. aromatic herbs. drum either dry or sweet. Yet every acorns. is a taste of Spanish culture. HOW TO ENJOY Like all hard cheeses. they are placed on a horizontal press to expel excess whey. scorched by temperatures of up to 122°F (50°C) and minimal rainfall. aromatic complexity of ﬂavor depends on age. Factory cheeses Producer Various are aged in large. 8in (20cm). Manchego DOP Manchego takes its name from the dry plateau of La Mancha. sweet. riverbanks. however. methodically through the herds. but that just as close to traditional handmade to see the shepherds as they work makes it taste better. scrawny sheep. dry plains of La Mancha. but all Manchego has an unmistakable In fall and winter. PRESSING AND AGING Once the curd Size D. Christened Al Mansha (“land without water”) by the Arabs. dotted with old ruins. olive groves. Artisan cheeses are Milk Ewe then aged in stone barns. Cheeses that reach a great age have a peppery bite to the ﬁnish and. and wild drop is imbued with the essence of grasses of the dehesa (uncultivated the wild thyme. However. The texture is pasteurized milk in modern factories that comply with EU regulations. blackthorn. and the windmills made famous by Don Quixote. liters of milk each a day. 160 the ﬂavor is intensiﬁed. airy barns. yielding but a few much of the indigenous shrubs. uncultivated land still exists in the The resulting thick. like any hard cheese. great care has been taken factories. and a Most Manchego is now made with ﬁeld crops and hay. vetch. sufﬁcient natural. ﬂat region with few trees. Each and gastronomy. history. when cooked. It is an awesome sight greasy in the mouth. Manchego keeps well and is gorgeous eaten just as it is. sometimes dug into Classiﬁcation Hard the sides of the limestone hills. their diet is richness reminiscent of Brazil nuts supplemented with sweet tendrils and caramel. dry. H. so The vast. aromatic mountains and woodlands. Each mouthful cheeses as possible. enjoy it with a robust or young rough SPAIN Castilla-La Mancha red or crisp white wine. it is extremely versatile and. and crops have replaced in the bucket. S PA I N A N D P O R T U G A L milk gives Manchego its character. Modern irrigation has meant that sheep is lifted off its back legs so the vast swaths of vines. and on the plains to provide summer grazing for the TASTING NOTES The depth and hardy sheep whose thick. La Mancha is a vast. if cut into thin wedges and marinated in the strong. milk from the swollen udder collects sunﬂowers. It can be slightly oily However. Manchego will absorb tannin. with a distinct aroma A CLOSER LOOK from vines and the stubble from of lanolin and roast lamb. aromatic local green olive oil. around milk is what makes Manchego unique. south of Madrid and not far from Toledo. withered acorns that the sheep eat. It is a magniﬁcent part of Spain with a sense of timelessness and history. and land). 4in (10cm) is in the molds. Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb (3kg). Most Manchego is made in dry yet creamy. . The texture of the ivory-colored interior is ﬁrm and dry. Originally. yet rich and creamy. The boards and grass have been replaced with plastic molds imprinted with the zigzag pattern. the zigzag marks were made by encircling the fresh curd with braided esparto grass and placing it on hand-carved wooden boards to drain. the cheese must bear the distinct zigzag markings along the sides and the ﬂor (“ﬂower”) design on the top and bottom. MARKING To qualify for the DOP label. S PA I N 161 Exterior . The distinctive yellow to brownish- beige rind gathers a multitude of Interior molds and must be washed and scrubbed and sometimes waxed before being sold. SPAIN Galicia SPAIN Taramundi. fruity white wines or cider. it also has the same dishes. San Simón da Costa Taramundi Tetilla DO DOP The creation of a splinter cooperative This popular cheese from northwestern Shaped as a large teardrop with a small formed to respond to the growth in Spain is well known beyond its borders nipple on top. shape—the name Tetilla means “small smooth copper-colored rind is the result Taramundi is inspired by the sweeter. works well in rice. more elastic cheeses of Switzerland. HOW TO ENJOY A good melting cheese. wheel (500g–1. and vegetable alongside crudités. Tetilla becomes ﬁrmer and more resilient. TASTING NOTES The smoky taste blends TASTING NOTES Made plain or with elegantly with the buttery aroma and walnuts or hazelnuts.” Original farmhouse production of gentle smoking over birch wood. a pleasant balance of of toast. 5–6in (12–15cm). with either quince wine and some peanuts. pasta. clean. breast. H. 4–8in (10–20cm). the end of a meal. butter. springy texture. and sweetness in the aftertaste.5kg). or added to salads. has been almost totally replaced by a S PA I N A N D P O R T U G A L strong dairy industry. Delicious superb melting qualities as raclette. paste or a sharp apple purée. 31⁄2–6in (9–15cm). while the overall ﬂavor is mild an unusual but pleasant ﬂavor—a mix only seven days. acidity. when the deep bright with some salt. it is thought to have its popularity of local cheese and take due to its mellow taste and distinctive origins in Celtic culture. 31⁄2in–6in (13–18cm) (4–6cm) (9–15cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow and goat Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Flavor-added Classiﬁcation Flavor-added Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Various Producer Various . and unctuous. and sweetness—and a yellow interior is sweet. HOW TO ENJOY Delicious when served at with a glass of a young red Valdeorras Perfect when combined with young. 11⁄2–21⁄2in Size D.5kg). 5–7in Size D. this HOW TO ENJOY An excellent hors d’oeuvre with a slight acidity on the ﬁnish. ﬂattened cone 162 Size D. large cone (500g–1kg). Its distinctive advantage of the rich mountain milk. this cheese has TASTING NOTES It is ready to eat after taste. Asturias SPAIN Galicia Age 3 weeks Age 2–3 months Age 7 days minimum Weight and Shape 13⁄4lb–3lb 3oz Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–21⁄4lb Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–3lb 3oz (800g–1. H. H. buttery. with maturity. lavender and oregano. 4–6in (10–15cm). although there are hints TASTING NOTES Mountain pastures endow paste is very soft and rich. 41⁄2–6in (11–16cm). cheeses a distinctive earthy ﬂavor and TASTING NOTES The rind reveals notes of a gentle bitterness on the ﬁnish. Teruel. the ammonia and. 1 and 11⁄2in (3 and 4cm) (7–10cm) Milk Ewe Milk Cow Milk Ewe or goat. in Pallars Sobirà. 5in and 81⁄2in (13 and 22cm). and scoop out the soft enjoyed with a dense white country. with hints of this cheese is hard to deny. and Torta La Serena. round (500g–2kg). or a blend Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Soft white Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various Producer Tros de Sort Producer Various . There are three versions. 2–21⁄2in Size D. H. with aromas of fresh mushroom and rich cream.3kg). and Castellón. available S PA I N reminiscent of dry hay. 3–4in 163 (5–6cm) H. Size D. the cured goat’s-milk variety is a Terra Alta or Somontano. style loaf and a strong red wine such as olives. Tronchón with crusty bread and green interior with a teaspoon or breadsticks. cut a hole in the top HOW TO ENJOY Full of character. round (400–500g) and 21⁄4lb (1kg). It is situated in the heart of the shepherds. spread throughout the provinces of TASTING NOTES Thistle rennet gives these Tarragona. 1995. This tender soft cheese with its white A delightful volcano-shaped cheese. these lush cheeses have recently taken mold rind is a thoroughly modern Tronchón is imprinted with original Europe by storm with their near-liquid cheese created at a dairy founded in carved wooden molds made by the interiors. SPAIN Extremadura SPAIN Sort. Pyrenees. gluey.Tortas Extremeñas Tou del Til·lers Tronchón Once considered ﬁt only for peasants. sharper and pairs well with young reds. it is best HOW TO ENJOY Serve fresh ewe’s-milk of the cheese. where mixed herds of goats and sheep into Torta del Casar. H. and assertive ﬂavor of either fresh or cured. the this soft. pungent. varied high pasture enriches the the Sierra del Maestrazgo extends its quality of the milk. Lleida SPAIN Aragón and País Valenciano Age From 8 weeks Age 6–12 weeks Age From 45 days Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–3lb Weight and Shape 14oz–1lb 2oz Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–41⁄2lb (500g–1. round with a crater Size D. HOW TO ENJOY Heat in the oven until warmed through. buttery cheese. The tradition of taking including Torta de Barros (pictured). quince paste. occasionally with goat Size D. it leaves an elegant aftertaste. drum Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb–8lb 13oz (200g). perfect for canapés on dry bread. cider. TASTING NOTES Matured in small ceramic often marketed as Picos de Europa. and prunes. It also makes an excellent sauce. produce this on the León contribute to Zamorano’s complex the modern-day Catalan cheese menu. H. side of the Picos de Europa. but an intense. not strong. It has the texture of oatmeal. It walnuts. Tupí Valdeón DO Zamorano DO This spread. slightly tart. 8–91⁄2in (20–24cm). There is a heritage here is made from the second fermentation climate of Valdéon is less humid than of shepherding and moving herds of fresh and cured cheeses. The resulting less. pots Size D. HOW TO ENJOY Its soft texture makes it HOW TO ENJOY Select a Gran Reserva. SPAIN Cataluña SPAIN León. nutty complexity satisfying ﬁnish. a TASTING NOTES The rind is rough. blended that of Picón. Tomás The dry pastures of northern Castilla shepherd’s recipe that is ﬁrmly back on and Javier.5kg). and with port or the end of a meal. Valdeón is great variety of vegetation and climate. and the local wine Toro. with olive oil and brandy or liqueur. drum 164 Size No size Milk Cow. 31⁄2–51⁄2in Milk Cow (9–14cm) Classiﬁcation Blue Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Milk Ewe Producer Queserías Picos de Europa Producer Various Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various . and a slightly speckled with molds. which is a very ancient The innovative Alonso brothers. but it HOW TO ENJOY Serve with hazelnuts. and serve alone at is not a cheese for the faint-hearted. virulent mold produces a less intense and the dramatic landscape offers a S PA I N A N D P O R T U G A L ﬂavor than similar blues. clay pots. aged for 12 months. Distinctly spicy. Castilla y León Age A few weeks Age 2–3 months Age 100 days minimum Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (160g) and 7oz Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb (2. It develops fetid aroma. this is a strangely compulsive TASTING NOTES The quality and character cheese. where the character. sticky. Castilla y León SPAIN Zamora. and wrapped in matured for long periods. H. of the ewe’s milk allow the cheese to be strong piquant ﬂavor. between summer and winter pasture. 71⁄2in (19cm). 31⁄2in (9cm) (2–4kg). and ﬂavored with a touch of with a distinct sheepy aroma. but develops a surprisingly sycamore leaves. or perhaps with pairs well with cold beers and ciders. salt. ﬂora and local soil conditions strongly and resilient Serrana goat. with reds such as Pinot Noir. with earthy undertones. the paste is ﬁrm with a slightly is matured for up to 60 days. dollop into baked pastry shells. 2–41⁄2in (5–11cm). the rind is brine-washed. are moved from high to low altitudes the most common. Castelo Branco. TASTING NOTES Rich in butterfat and bitter ﬁnish. Serve Tempranillo or Albarinho wine. PORTUGAL Azeitão DOP Cabra Transmontano Castelo Branco DOP This rustic-looking cheese wrapped in DOP This DOP. paired alongside dried fruit and nuts. Weight and Shape 1lb 5oz–2lb Weight and Shape 1lb 10oz–21⁄4lb soft round (600–900g). H. The ﬂavor is lemony cheeses have a soft texture that gets HOW TO ENJOY Cut open the top. out the runny paste. or eat or crumbling over a summer salad and cheese adds interest to a cheese board with nutty bread and wash down with can be served as a table cheese. describes three cheeses made the Arrabida mountains. TASTING NOTES It is tangy with a slightly PORTUGAL slightly acidic and very delicate taste. but there is also a as the weather moves into winter. It has a sweet. protein. of course. cloth. and yellow version blended with goat’s milk TASTING NOTES The curds are molded in springtime brings the opportunity for and a hotter. is made from the hardy with thistle rennet. H. becoming more spicy as it with fatty spice on the ﬁnish. scoop and zesty. 1–21⁄2in Size D. 5–71⁄2in (12–19cm). more mature recipe. round Size D. the paste is pale yellow. which comes from the area Baxta. this oregano to serve with an aperitif. with a tawny Port or fruity white wine. is inﬂuence the quality of the milk. Young unctuous texture. H. PORTUGAL Setúbal PORTUGAL Bragança and Vila Real PORTUGAL Castelo Branco Age 20–30 days Age 60 days Age 45–60 days Weight and Shape 31⁄2–9oz (100–250g). 21⁄2–3in 165 (2–6cm) (3–6cm) (6–7cm) Milk Ewe Milk Goat Milk Ewe Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Various Producer Various . The herds which is a white ewe’s-milk cheese. and milking and. and sprinkle with HOW TO ENJOY It is excellent for grating HOW TO ENJOY In all its variations. cheesemaking. where the famous for port. 3⁄4–21⁄2in Size D. ﬁrmer and chewier with age. 5–6in (12–16cm). round (750g–1kg). which is also called Beira gauze hails from the lush foothills of This cheese. 3–4in (7–10cm). It locals have enjoyed for years. Spring pastures create ﬁrm straw-yellow cheese. cured suited to eating before or after meals HOW TO ENJOY One of Portugal’s most meats. cylinder Weight and Shape 7oz–3lb (200g–1. where it was once traded as down by settlers of the Azores’ most traditional cheese. PORTUGAL Évora PORTUGAL Ilha Graciosa. 12in (30cm). spicy fruity ﬂavor. and stronger version. Merino ewe’s milk and thistle northern island for many centuries. H. The cheesemaking technique used to Merina Branca. TASTING NOTES The island’s fertile light-yellow cheese with a crumbly volcanic soil and damp climate provide TASTING NOTES The texture of this yellow- texture. with small eyes in the paste. which farmers and currency. cheeses of its kind. for a shorter period.3kg). 4–5in (10–13cm). TASTING NOTES This is a delicious. cylinder Size D. it is also an excellent salad sugarcane rum. clean spicy taste and aroma. but is matured thistle rennet coagulates the milk. Pair it with Sangiovese wines. Évora DOP Ilha Graciosa Nisa DOP The home of this hand-shaped washed. Azores PORTUGAL Portalegre Age 30–90 days Age 90 days Age 3–4 months Weight and Shape 4–10oz (120–300g). 5–6in Milk Ewe (12–16cm) Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Ewe Producer Various Producer Various Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various . the local breed of rind cheese is the famous walled town produce Ilha Graciosa has been handed sheep. Weight and Shape 22lb (10kg). it is perfect on a olive oil. are ideal for grating over gratin dishes.5cm) Milk Cow Size D. or apricots. 6in (15cm) round 166 Size D. strong. the lush pastures that characterize this white cheese with a well-formed crust and salty ﬁnish. Nisa has a slightly sweet taste and is very rich and creamy. and sourdough bread doused in with the local minerally white wines or popular cheeses. H. a creamier. light acidity. and a crisp white wine. HOW TO ENJOY It is traditionally thinly HOW TO ENJOY Graciosa cheese is well sliced and accompanied by olives. H. 11⁄4in (3–3. and the cheese may be preserved in S PA I N A N D P O R T U G A L terra-cotta pots of olive oil called talhas. fruitier. with its is dense. Very mature versions cheese board with fruits such as plums cheese. Local rennet combine to create one of the best is similar to São Jorge. produce the rich milk for this of Évora. the sweetness of toffee and a hint of HOW TO ENJOY Ideal for fondues. creamy cheese. Serra has a sailors who made Madeira their home than Bordeleira. when a group of Flemish with the milk of Laconne sheep. with some small holes. It is on the palate. and eat with breadsticks or a spoon and bake.São Jorge DOP Serpa DOP Serra da Estrela DOP This cheese dates back to the 15th Serpa is similar to Serra. 4–7in (10–18cm). Complete enjoyment. Madeira PORTUGAL Beja PORTUGAL Guarda Age 4–6 months Age 30 days Age 45 days Weight and Shape 22lb–241⁄4lb Weight and Shape 7oz–3lb 3oz Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–21⁄4lb (10–11kg). round (500g and 1kg). Jorge also makes a ﬁne addition to a HOW TO ENJOY It is perfect paired with traditional cheese board with fresh red wine as an aperitif. 4–7in (10–18cm). H. H. different pastures within the northern TASTING NOTES The abundant grass and mountains. ﬂowers. and sparse aromatic grazing gives the the Romans. along with marmalade or quince paste. possesses a mild acidity with a slight bitterness. but is made Made from the milk of Bordeleira da century. round Size D. São strawberries and thyme. herbs. 5–8in 167 Milk Cow (12–20cm) (12–20cm) Classiﬁcation Hard Milk Ewe Milk Ewe Producer Various Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producers Various Producer Various . then ﬁll the temperature. The TASTING NOTES The supple and luscious PORTUGAL akin to a cross between cheddar and cardoon or thistle rennet used to make yellow paste. shell with mild onions and potatoes. The hot dry climate long history dating back to the time of created this Gouda-type recipe. H. The ﬂocks are moved to cheese a rich and fruity taste.5cm) Size D. cylinder (200g–1. coagulated with thistle Gouda. PORTUGAL São Jorge. Scoop out the HOW TO ENJOYBring the cheese to room fruit such as pears and Muscat grapes. 5in (12. a clean bouquet. 5–8in Size D. a strong spicy ﬂavor. and they feed on wild salty pastures allow the cheese to gain TASTING NOTES A full. middle with breadsticks. rather Serra da Estrela sheep. clean. 12in (30cm). with a tangy ﬁnish. cut off the top like a lid. it adds a lightly acidic aftertaste and rennet. and grasses.5kg). Serpa is soft. and slightly salty and a hard but crumbly texture. Raw and pasteurized milk from goats. the industry has seen a major revival of farmhouse-based production. when Veronica Steele created Milleens. Today there are around 20 Scottish artisan Orkney cheesemakers producing both traditional and unique 100 km cheeses from cow’s. Caboc. hard cheddar. 100 miles including the Vikings and the Irish. and ewe’s milk. cows. Crowdie. PGI. beginning in 1976. and the inﬂuence of itinerant monks. Inspiration for cheeses came from various sources. proximity to Europe. and Clava Brie Dutch and Swiss styles. NORTH SEA In recent decades. goat’s. unforgiving winters. blues. and sheep is now used here for a wide variety Strathdon of styles and ﬂavors. long. DOP. lush pastures. Key SCOTLAND ★ AOC. IRELAND Irish cheesemaking dates back centuries thanks to high rainfall levels. including superb soft Blue fresh cheeses. DOC.GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND SCOTLAND Harsh. Blue Murder. dark. Ireland’s ﬁrst modern farmhouse cheese. and brief summers meant that cheeses were originally made mainly by the old clan folk and crofters for their own consumption. unpredictable weather. Today there are around 70 farmhouse cheesemakers in the country. or PDO cheeses Produced only here Produced throughout the region N Isle of Mull Cheddar Dunlop Anster ATLANTIC OCEAN Lanark Blue Doddington GREAT Cairnsmore BRITAIN Cairnsmore Ewes Ewes Northumberland Cairnsmore Kebbuck Ewes NORTHERN Allerdale IRELAND Cotherstone . such as Rachel Pendragon cheddar. Suffolk Gold Saval. Hundreds graze there. and Red Leicester. Windrush Ardsallagh Pont Gar Double Gloucester. and sheep that Old Winchester. but also ensuring a future Capricorn Goat Woolsery Goat for some of the rare native livestock breeds that give cheese the subtleties. and the animals that graze it. Durrus Pant-Ys-Gawn Cerney Canterbury Single Gloucester ★ Golden Blue Heaven Pyramid Cobble Gubbeen Barkham Blue Cenarth Cheddar Laverstoke Holy Smoked Waterloo Duddleswell. and a mild variable climate. Lancashire. beautiful and varied landscapes with high mountain Old Sarum ranges. the last Ogleshield 30 years have seen a signiﬁcant increase in small-batch English artisan cheeses. and quality so essential Caerphilly. initially made on lowland farms for the mining community. Cheddar Billy’s Smokey As a result. and their passion. wild herbs. luscious lowlands. Yarg The past 25 years have brought an extraordinary Cornish Beenleigh Blue revival of on-farm cheesemaking. Beenoskee Gold. Wyfe of Bath ENGLAND A great wedge of the geology and history of Wedmore England can be told through its iconic cheeses. Fowlers Sage Derby Stilton ★. and was an essential part of the local economy. individual cheesemakers. and ﬂowers give a unique Keltic Gold Quickes Hard Goat Lord Shaw Curworthy Mayﬁeld of the character to the milk of the goats. However. very landscape. Tymsboro Cheese. Francis . Welsh cheese Cheese Sharpham Rustic. the cheeses of England are a reﬂection of the Goat. from mild creamy goat to robust blue. Ragstone Snodsbury Goat St Oswald Teiﬁ Farmhouse Shipcord Boksburg Hereford Hop. Swinthins Cooleeney Knockdrinna Pablo Cabrito Shropshire Blue. Capra Nouveau St Eadburgha. St. Milleens Ardrahan Stinking Bishop Perl Las Gold Blue Daylesford Cheddar Coolea St Gall Extra Mature Cerwyn. not only resulting in an increase in Exmoor Blue ★ Dorset Blue Vinny complex and ﬂavorful cheeses. for these handmade products. Caerphilly Cashel Blue. cows. nuances. Lavistown Caerphilly Finn. their craft. Forest Blue Crozier Blue Berkswell White Stilton ★ Hafod Perroche. Little Ryding producers now make a variety of traditional and modern Ticklemore Goat Bath Soft cheeses. its people. Ciliegine Sussex Slipcote Tunworth WALES Wales is primarily a pastoral country boasting Cheddar Little Ann New Forest Blue. but the Wiltshire Loaf Golden Cross best known is Caerphilly. Vulscombe Winterdale The grasses. St Tola Log White Stilton ★ Remembered Hills Cheshire WALES Innes Button Red Leicester. Beauvale Stilton ★ Stilton ★. Swaledale Goat Wensleydale★ Buffalo Blue Corleggy Kearney Ribblesdale Original Goat Blue Bellingham Blue Lancashire Glebe Brethan IRISH SEA Blacksticks Blue Kileen Goat IRELAND Aberwen Cote Hill Blue REPUBLIC Grace Smelly Ha’Peth ENGLAND OF IRELAND White Lincolnshire Poacher Cheshire Burt’s Blue Stilton ★ Stichelton Mossﬁeld Organic Ravens Oak Goat Shropshire Blue. Cheese is a reﬂection of Cheddar. Cornish Blue Isle of Norsworthy Rosary Plain Simple cheese has been made in Wales for centuries St Endellion Wight Blue Flower Marie. or in a salad with Conference enjoy as part of a cheese board with drizzle of oil and a full-bodied white.5cm) Size L. Berkshire ENGLAND Bath. HOW TO ENJOY Serve on its own. ammonite Weight and Shape 8oz (225g). was sent some by his her daughter Leonie. more mushroomy taste. 4in (10cm). HOW TO ENJOY Remove from the HOW TO ENJOY Oven-baked or grilled. which colors the interior farmer. Cumbria ENGLAND Barkham. Today’s organic version ﬂavors of Cumbria’s lush green grazing blue-green veining from Penicillium of this cheese is packed in parchment into delicious cheese. roqueforti mold. pears. 51⁄2in (14cm). a third-generation cheese when she began her dairy Island milk. it achieves fresh hint of green onion and matures Its maturation in cloth allows different a satisfying and spicy depth. translating the rustic mold-covered rind. layers of ﬂavors to permeate. TASTING NOTES This sweet. A blue for to a creamier. and serve on a bed of baby spinach with a soup. truckle Weight and Shape 3lb (1. career in the basement of the family deep yellow. and dressing. 3in (7. while it Brie. H. it has father as a gift. using milk from her herd cheese that looks as good as it tastes. 51⁄2in (14cm) Size D.ENGLAND Allerdale Barkham Blue Bath Soft Cheese This was Carolyn Fairbairn’s ﬁrst The buttery consistency of Channel Graham Padﬁeld. Nowadays. to the time of Admiral Lord Nelson. characterizes this excellent but the recipe for Bath Soft dates back GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND home in 1979. this mild cheese begins with a texture similar to Cheshire (see p175). moist cheese TASTING NOTES Rich and creamy. began making cheese in 1993. in 1801. square Size D. who. admirably avoids harshness. this TASTING NOTES Reminiscent of a mellow has a clean hint of almond and a blue melts in the mouth and. 4in (10cm). H. Bath Oliver Biscuits and wheat beer. 7in (18cm).5kg). Somerset Age 3–5 months Age 6–8 weeks Age 4–6 weeks Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb (2. she works alongside Ammonite-shaped with an attractive. in a refrigerator an hour beforehand. anyone who usually avoids blue.3kg). of goats. 170 Milk Goat Milk Cow H. 11⁄4in (3cm) Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Blue Milk Cow Producer Thornby Moor Dairy Producer Two Hoots Cheese Classiﬁcation Soft white Producer Bath Soft Cheese Company . mixed leaves. bearing a distinctive red wax seal. ENGLAND Thursby. W. on their 16th-century farm near Blue with their crusty rinds and buttery blue-cheese aﬁcionado whose dairy the village of Berkswell. The rough exterior has a slight ﬁrm texture. H. in 2012 this impressive skirts the banks of the Dart River. sweet. ﬂying Size D. West Midlands Age 12 weeks Age 5-plus months Age 4–6 months Weight and Shape 26lb (12kg). HOW TO ENJOY Worth seeking out. it is so runny you need to spread it on crusty HOW TO ENJOY Use in a salad or serve on HOW TO ENJOY Its texture makes it ideal bread and serve with a big juicy red its own. yet is mellow with a sweetness an excellent ewe’s milk cheese it really cheese provides a satisfying mouthful: of caramel and a spicy kick. 4–5in (10–13cm) Size D. caramel stickiness.Beauvale Beenleigh Blue Berkswell Cropwell Bishop. It is now made texture. ENGLAND Nottinghamshire ENGLAND Sharpham Barton. 14in (36cm). Devon cider. and slightly Friesland sheep. 31⁄2in (9cm) 171 Classiﬁcation Blue Milk Ewe Milk Ewe Producer Cropwell Bishop Creamery Classiﬁcation Blue Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Ticklemore Cheese Producer Ram Hall Dairy Sheep . European style blue appeared. nutty. an old creamery One of a very few British blue cheeses This consistent award winner at the dating back to 1847. 8in (20cm). and a surprisingly tangy ﬁnale. H. complemented with a sweet for dishes that call for grated cheese. this cheese has TASTING NOTES Originating from a and a soft. who uses milk from their ﬂock of East TASTING NOTES Rich. Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb (3kg). wheel Weight and Shape 61⁄2–71⁄2lb (3–3. this is the Stephen Fletcher and his mother. with a blue-green mold ENGLAND walls. is owned by the made from ewe’s milk (and available British Cheese Awards was created by Skailes family and best known for from August to January). sweet. award-winning Stilton and Shropshire creation of Robin Congdon. 5in (12cm) drum saucer Milk Cow Size D. a skilled Sheila. hints. TASTINGS NOTES It exudes aromas of stone crumbly. it forms a delicious crust.5kg). Devon ENGLAND Berkswell. when cooked. wine like Barolo or a pink Prosecco. is. silky feel with blue clumpy hints of burnt caramel that show what traditional recipe. However. has an amazingly goopy texture running through it. this characterful streaks. 8in (20cm). by their cheesemaker Linda Dutch. H. block Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb (2. H. tongue. and ﬁnally lingers delightfully is pleasantly piquant. Serve in both the smoked and unsmoked kinds. Billy’s Smokey Goat Blacksticks Blue Blue Heaven Ford Farm. on the palate with a mild spicy tang. cheese. H. near Dorset’s magniﬁcent Named after a group of chestnut trees Jonathan and Melissa Ravenhill’s Jurassic Coast. By popular demand. 21⁄2in (6cm) 3lb 3oz (1.5kg). aged in the Cheddar caves. 2in (5cm) and 8in (20cm). the Blacksticks range the unimproved limestone grassland of GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND Coastal cheddar and Wookey Hole was originally developed for the Minchinhampton Common and provide cheddar. milder and creamier than other roqueforti to the sweet organic milk. the milk to create a range of organic But they also make a small amount it is now sold in stores. 21⁄2in (6cm) Milk Cow Size D. British blues such as Stilton. makes excellent that resemble a collection of black herd of Dairy Shorthorns graze on cheddars including the popular crunchy sticks in winter. but a light HOW TO ENJOY Pair with hot buttered a cheese board with crusty bread and a rosé or a dry Riesling brings out the best Irish soda bread.5kg). ﬂaky. 2in Milk Goat (5cm) and 6in (15cm) Classiﬁcation Blue Classiﬁcation Flavor-added Milk Cow Producer Butlers Farmhouse Cheese Producer Ford Farm Classiﬁcation Blue Producer Woefuldane Organic Dairy . or use in a rich blue drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. sauce for grilled steak or pasta. Blacksticks cheeses. of this delicious hard goat cheese. 3. restaurant trade. the rind a deep russet red color and TASTING NOTES Blacksticks Blue starts by streaked with patches of blue and imbues the dense. then strokes the encased in a natural molded crust. Gloucestershire Age 3–4 months Age 9–12 weeks Age 6–8 weeks Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1 kg). Size D. Lancashire ENGLAND Minchinhampton. yet creamy delighting the nose. HOW TO ENJOY The almondy and smoky HOW TO ENJOY Perfect for canapés or on notes make it hard to match. Blue is a contemporary soft blue-veined which is made by adding Penicillium and some of it is sent off for smoking. drum Weight and Shape 14oz (400g) and Size L . ﬂat round 172 H. This range includes this blue.8in (19. ENGLAND Dorset ENGLAND Inglewhite.5in (9cm). TASTINGS NOTES Natural smoking gives TASTING NOTES The creamy.5cm). interior with a delicate smoky taste. with a Cotswold Brewery wheat beer. W. soft paste. 81⁄4in (21cm). of course. a hint consistency that hints of yeast and of green grass. 7in (18cm). H. a Greek Muscat. ridged rind TASTING NOTES It looks light—soft and TASTINGS NOTES The thin. although there attracts white. H. and melting. 21⁄2in (6cm) Size D. something rather special in the process. ENGLAND Newsham. grating. wheel Size D. 21⁄2in (6cm) Milk Buffalo Milk Cow Milk Cow 173 Classiﬁcation Blue Classiﬁcation Blue Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Shepherds Purse Cheeses Producer Burt’s Cheese Producer Cheesemakers of Canterbury . There is a “blue” in its nutty. She started cheesemaking in 2007. she has extended her range from sheep and buffalo was to help All her cheeses are handmade in small to include both hard and soft raw people with dairy allergies. 8in (20cm). and Burt’s Blue was the ﬁrst. North Yorkshire ENGLAND Cheshire ENGLAND Kent Age 8–10 weeks Age 6–8 weeks Age 2–3 months Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb (3kg) drum Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg). farms. She created batches using milk from a few local cow and goat’s milk cheeses. slightly salty taste. Anthemis. round Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg).Buffalo Blue Burt’s Blue Canterbury Cobble From the only maker of buffalo blue Claire Burt started out analyzing cheese Jane Bowyer has been in the dairy cheese in Yorkshire. from the world-famous local hops. surprisingly. blue. grilling. spicy blue tang. TASTINGS NOTES The crusty. a reminder that it is a help ripen the creamy interior with its with its tiny uneven holes.5in (17cm). blotchy blue chunks to an almost runny slight sharpness on the tongue. and gray molds that hides the chewy yet creamy interior is. 8in (20cm) Size D. of cheese and a dollop of half-and-half into potato soup before puréeing. then. H. the ﬁnish. sticky rind dusted with gray and brown molds ENGLAND creamy—and it is light. Samos drink with cheese is Kentish Ale made creamy broth. this is handmade and researching the best cheeses for industry for over 30 years but only from the milk of local water buffalo. and a tingly acidity on HOW TO ENJOY Stir a healthy portion distinct. Since One of Judy Bell’s aims in using milk decided to turn professional in 2010. 6. the only thing to to produce a deliciously rich and be a tawny port or. HOW TO ENJOY A perfect partner would HOW TO ENJOYIn Kent. whose Somerset valley and specializes in cheese is made by hand from a recipe raw milk is used in a range of cheeses making continental styles of cheeses. develops into a salty-sweetness. but develops as it matures. which permeates the thick. it has hints of cheese. washed Classiﬁcation Soft white Classiﬁcation Fresh Producer Brock Hall Farm Producer Lubborn Creamery Producer Cerney Cheese . bark. 6in (16cm). however. Thomas. this a creamy texture. HOW TO ENJOY Crumble the young cheese into salads. Gloucestershire Age 6–8 weeks Age 7 weeks Age 1 month Weight and Shape 2lb (900g). H. 11⁄2in (4cm) 174 Milk Goat Milk Goat Milk Goat Classiﬁcation Semi-soft. Somerset ENGLAND South Cerney. It is far almost liquid. H. this black-and-white cheeses. almonds with meaty overtones. as it ripens. it has a slight nutty TASTING NOTES Luxuriously smooth. 21⁄2in (6cm). and clean taste with ﬂoral notes. of Sauvignon Blanc. round Weight and Shape 41⁄4oz (120g) cylinder Weight and Shape 9oz (250g). this cheese changes character with age. TASTINGS NOTES The orange-pink Eaten young. 2in (5cm) Size D. it exudes a fresh. delicate white mold rind. with a glass cheese board. crackers and a dry white wine. this eye-catching hills is home to around 100 goats. Savor the mature HOW TO ENJOYA striking addition to the HOW TO ENJOY Like all washed-rind cheese simply as it comes. Capra Nouveau Capricorn Goat Cerney Pyramid The Hamptons farm in the Shropshire Lubborn Creamery nestles in a green Handsome and fresh. It is coated with the cheese is inspired by the artisan oak ash and a sea salt mix from France. unique starter culture. Pale ivory the paste is softer and creamier. this cheese full-fat Valençay-type cheese from a the land and the animals. and shaped into a truncated pyramid. ENGLAND Shropshire ENGLAND Cricket St. or grill. pyramid Size D. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. developed by Lady Angus of Cerney: a GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND that reﬂect passion and commitment to Ripened for seven weeks. 21⁄2in (6cm). interior. H. with sticky cheese is bound with spruce ﬂavor. cheesemakers of France. truncated pyramid is heavenly with style white wine or a Shropshire cider. it goes best with an Alsace. milder than expected from a goat’s with tiny holes. The quality of develops a thin. TASTING NOTES Like the goats themselves. dairy farm. Cheshire has a savory. the interior is dense and creamy a very ﬁne crumbly texture and a mild like Gorgonzola and thick streaks of with horizontal blue streaks. H. blue. H. This mild blue was the result. Cornwall ENGLAND Lincolnshire Shropshire. 8in (19. cheeses with an individuality that crumbly texture. marshes. Philip and Carol Stansﬁeld. HOW TO ENJOY Grill it (as in traditional HOW TO ENJOY Perfect for pepping up— HOW TO ENJOY Mary’s friends have Welsh rarebit). many awards. round Weight and Shape 23⁄4lb (1. TASTINGS NOTES Under the gray and white ENGLAND TASTING NOTES Dense. round Weight and Shape 48lb (22kg). it is surprisingly mild and sweet. 2in (4. Michael and Mary Davenport started of English history. It is mild fresh acidity. and salt.5cm). Cheshire was looking for a way to diversify their making cheese in October 2005. but is usually colored with annatto.5cm) Size D. or marry it with a appetizers. and spicy with a subtle crescendo of salty tang that lingers in the mouth. 11in (28cm). 101⁄2in (26cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow 175 Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Blue Classiﬁcation Blue Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Cornish Cheese Company Producer Cote Hill Farm Producer Various . crumble it in but not overpowering—risotto. with fruit and a glass of Champagne. the salt content caused the could compete with imported blue They make award-winning raw milk cheese to ripen slowly and gave it a cheese. 12in (30cm). slightly dry with TASTING NOTES With a creamy texture molds. and the Stansﬁelds have since won is unique to Cote Hill Farm. using mentioned in the Domesday Book. sauces. It is available in white.2 kg). becoming spicier and tangier as it ages. Holstein. H. and Red Poll cows. peppery dandelions. it goes beautifully Cote Hill Blue and green onion scones glass of real ale. spotted the gap in the milk produced by their herd of 70 Since the cattle were grazed on salt market for a young blue cheese that Friesian. on the website—they are excellent. cylinder Size D. 7in (18cm) Size D. cocoa. and more. ENGLAND Liskeard. and Wales Age 14 weeks Age 8–10 weeks Age 2–6 months Weight and Shape 131⁄4lb (6kg). ENGLAND Today produced in Cheshire. persuaded her to put her recipe for soups and salads.Cheshire Cornish Blue Cote Hill Blue A cheese woven into the fabric In 2001. bake it. millstone drum Size D.2kg). Devon ENGLAND Daylesford. using milk from the farm’s of award-winning organic cheeses. Devon. this has pale yellow. 31⁄2–8in (9–20cm). ENGLAND Teesdale. truckle (500g–3kg). 3–81⁄2in (7. H. tangy. and fatty. 10in (25cm). H. it is made in a modern GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND on the banks of the Tees River—Joan 17th-century cheese and is one of creamery alongside the hugely Cross is the only remaining producer of six varieties produced by Rachel successful and very elegant Daylesford this cheese. crumbly. more Created in 2001 using organic milk once common in the wild and beautiful strikingly. moist.5cm) Size D. H. 21⁄2–4in Milk Cow Milk Cow (6–10cm) Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Hard Milk Cow Producer Daylesford Organic Creamery Producer Cotherstone Cheese Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Curworthy Cheese . Curwothy’s young. 3in (7. with a lovely buttery feel when to a savory lingering ﬁnish hinting of ﬂavor that is edged with a fruity tang young. a black wax coating. TASTING NOTES Cotherstone’s interior is TASTING NOTES Hard yet chewy. Cotherstone Curworthy Daylesford Cheddar Cotherstone and similar cheeses were With its own natural rind or. Weight and Shape 20lb (9kg). TASTING NOTES The texture is dense and a rich full-bodied tang that mellows out and it develops a buttery richness of chewy. buttery ﬂavor. which will complement such as a Pinot Noir or Merlot. HOW TO ENJOY Versatile in cooking. on the ﬁnish. but today—at Quarry Farm traditional Curworthy is based on a Cotswolds. 16in (40cm) 176 Size D. County Durham ENGLAND Okehampton. the Dales they favor a glass of dark Gewürztraminer. Gloucestershire Age 1–3 months Age 2–6 months Age 9–18 months Weight and Shape 11lb 2oz–61⁄2lb Weight and Shape 1–5lb (450g–2. peppery ﬂavor. herd of Friesian cows. but it HOW TO ENJOY The signature tanginess HOW TO ENJOY It is ideal on a cheese also stands proud on any cheese board goes well with a variety of wines. thanks to a recipe handed Stephens at Stockbeare Farm in Organic Farmshop. stout as the requisite accompaniment. and it matures into a more green grass and toffee. but in board or served with an Alsatian paired with a not-too-tannic red wine. the from the Bamfords Estate in the Pennines. Now one of a range down to her by her mother.5–22cm). Dorset ENGLAND All over Age 12–14 months Age 12–14 weeks Age Around 4 months Weight and Shape 11lb and 22lb. wheel Size D. nutty but not too strong. but not cheeses since 1990 after learning their 1980s. this Dorset farmhouse made this cheese— the 15th century. as per tradition. according to the time of year. Woodbridge Farm Producer Various Producer Doddington Dairy . compact. TASTING NOTESWith a leathery rind. They times. cows replaced it. and rind and a hard. But with changing sheep. every self-respecting This iconic cheese can be traced back to the bottom of the Cheviot Hills. savory. sweet caramel the butterfat content of the milk varies milk and colored deep orange with taste and a long-lasting nuttiness. Size D. or grated over watch it being rolled down Coopers Hill salads or pasta. when Severn Vale cheese is described by its makers Neill an excellent use for milk left over from farmers made it from famed Cotswold and Jackie Maxwell as lying somewhere buttermaking. along with a medium. 12in (30cm) Size Various H. this cheese annatto seeds. HOW TO ENJOY Try with traditional in Gloucester in May. with a rich. 10in (25cm). 41⁄2in (11cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow 177 Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Blue Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Mike Davies. the recipe itself nearly died out.Doddington Dorset Blue Vinny Double Gloucester Made at Doddington Dairy. H. It is made with whole texture. slightly dry TASTING NOTES As it is unpasteurized and mellow ﬂavor. Northumberland ENGLAND Stock Gaylard. cook with it. it is made have been making ice cream and until Mike Davies revived it in the throughout England. craft in the Netherlands and France. ENGLAND Wooler. 9in (23cm) and 121⁄2in (32cm). drum Weight and Shape 13lb (6kg). this ENGLAND TASTING NOTES An attractive brick-red hard cheese has a strong. Dorset knob biscuits and a sweet cider. He makes it with a combination necessarily with Gloucester milk. Gradually. creamy. bodied red wine such as a Merlot. so it is more moist than the original. of skim and whole milk. HOW TO ENJOY Eat plain. or wrapped in warm bread. milk from Gloucester between a Leicester and cheddar. round Weight and Shape Various. situated at Once upon a time. is sometimes crumbly and sometimes HOW TO ENJOY Serve with fruit and nuts. Today. Cheddar The story of cheddar can be traced back to the Romans, who introduced hard cheeses to Britain. It was the feudal system, however, that led to the development of the large, buxom traditional British cheeses because it placed the majority of land in the hands of a few great landowners who could afford to make very large cheeses. Yet it was not until the 16th century TASTING NOTES To taste an that this hard cheese made in the unpasteurized, clothbound cheddar, Mendip Hills near the Cheddar Gorge made from the milk of cows whose diet in Somerset became known as is fresh grass, clover, buttercups, and cheddar. The lush grazing, rolling hills, daisies, is to taste a piece of England. and natural caves offered the ideal The bite is ﬁrm but yielding like conditions for large herds and meant chocolate, the aroma earthy and the cheesemakers tended to make slightly savory. The ﬂavor differs from huge 60–120lb (27–54kg) cheeses farm to farm, but there is always the requiring 2–3 years to mature. rich sweetness of the milk, a classic acidity, sometimes nutty, often with an GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND explosion of ﬂavor in the mouth and a lingering cheese and onion tang. HOW TO ENJOY For generations, cheddar has been an integral part of the English diet, in sandwiches, as a quick snack, in plowman’s lunches, or as huge wedges on cheese platters, Exterior embellished with Cox’s apples, pickled walnuts, and crusty bread. It is also The ﬁne gray mold that grows over the cloth superb in sauces, melted over baked reduces the moisture loss so that the cheese can develop its characteristic hard, dense, creamy potatoes, or grated over numerous texture and earthy aroma. vegetable dishes and grilled. Best with a Merlot or Pinot Noir. The rolling hills of England’s West Country. FARMHOUSE CHEDDAR A CLOSER LOOK Since then it has been emulated Although cheddar has improved in recent Cheddar can be sold as young as six throughout the world, especially in years, it can never achieve the same months, when it has a softer texture Canada, Australia, and New Zealand, hardness and depth of ﬂavor as those and mild, almost buttery taste. At 178 made by hand in 60lb (26kg) rounds and 12 months, the texture is ﬁrmer, where the majority is made in blocks aged in cloth like those listed below [R = almost chewy, and the taste is more rather than elegant clothbound made with raw milk from a single farm] intense. At 18 months, the texture is cylinders. But only cheese made Barbers Farmhouse Cheese, Somerset drier, sometimes with crunchy calcium from cows that graze the green and Belton Cheese, Shropshire crystals, and the ﬂavor more savory. verdant hills of England truly Cheddar Gorge Cheese, Somerset [R] deserves the name cheddar. Cricketer Farm, Somerset Ford Farm, Dorset Goulds Chesemakers England Dorset, Devon, and Somerset Isle of Mull, Scotland [R] Age 6–24 months Keen’s, Somerset {R] Weight and Shape 56lb (26kg), cylinder Lye Cross Farm, Somerset or block Montgomery’s, Somerset [R] Size D. 121⁄2in (32cm), H. 101⁄2in (26cm) Quickes Traditional Cheeses, Devon [R] Milk Cow Westcombe Cheddar, Somerset [R] Classiﬁcation Hard Wedge Producer Various CHEDDARING To create the MILLING The ﬂattened bricks unique texture of cheddar, the mass of are then milled or “minced” to curds is molded into brick-sized blocks ﬁnger-sized pieces and pitched by and piled two bricks high. This process hand using giant forks to aerate and is repeated every 15–20 minutes until cool the curd before salting. the bricks ﬂatten out, the acidity rises, and more whey is forced out. ENGLAND 179 The interior is a soft Interior sunshiny butter-yellow color with an orange tinge as it ages. Duddleswell Exmoor Blue PGI Finn You would expect a delicious cheese Ian Arnett makes a range of traditional Charlie Westhead, Haydn Roberts, and from a farm set in a region ofﬁcially handmade hard and soft blue-veined their team produce cheeses in a dairy designated as an Area of Outstanding cheeses with vegetarian rennet, using atop Dorstone Hill, with glorious views GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND Natural Beauty. The Hardy family local cow, sheep, goat, and buffalo over the Wye Valley toward the Black started High Weald Dairy in 1988, in milk. Exmoor Blue is the only one Mountains. As with French double- the beautiful surroundings of Ashdown with PGI status, which means that cream cheeses, ten percent additional Forest; Duddleswell has echoes of it is made according to strict guidelines, cream is added to the milk before traditional Dales cheeses, with all the including using local unpasteurized the cheesemaking begins, giving it a nutritional beneﬁts of ewe’s milk. Jersey milk. creamy richness. TASTING NOTES Smooth and creamy with TASTING NOTES Balance is the key to this TASTING NOTES Inside its creamy-white a sweet, nutty release, Duddleswell is semi-soft blue veined cheese, where the rind lies a soft but ﬁrm cheese with a a hard-pressed cheese with a thin and zing of the blue still allows other subtle, creamy acidity, a salty-sweet mingling, leathery natural rind. mildly salty ﬂavors to reach the palate. and a hint of mushrooms. HOW TO ENJOY Feature as part of a cheese HOW TO ENJOY Partake with simple HOW TO ENJOY Bake with it, or savor the board, or instead of pecorino; great appreciation on the cheese board and, if extra richness set off to perfection by with pasta or on top of a salad. you can ﬁnd it, Somerset cider brandy. the plainest of crackers. ENGLAND Horsted Keynes, West Sussex ENGLAND Taunton, Somerset ENGLAND Dorstone, Herefordshire Age 3–4 months Age 4–5 weeks Age 3 weeks Weight and Shape 7lb (3.2kg), truckle Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz (500g) and Weight and Shape 101⁄2oz (300g), round Size D. 91⁄2in (24cm), H. 23⁄4–31⁄4in (7–8cm) 23⁄4lb (1.25kg), ﬂat round Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 2in (5cm) 180 Milk Ewe Size D. 43⁄4in (12cm) and 7in (18cm), Milk Cow H. 21⁄2in (6cm) Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Soft white Milk Cow Producer High Weald Dairy Producer Neal’s Yard Creamery Classiﬁcation Blue Producer Exmoor Blue Cheese Company Flower Marie Fort Grey Fowlers Forest Blue Kevin and Alison Blunt produce this Made in the parish of Torteval on Fowlers can lay claim to the title of unique ewe’s milk cheese, with its soft Guernsey, a small, ruggedly beautiful oldest cheesemaking family business in rind and moist interior that is often island in the English Channel, Fort England, the keepers of cheesemaking compared to the feel of melting ice Grey is named after a local Georgian secrets whispered down through the cream. They have been making cheese coastal defense. Fenella Maddison was generations. They are also proud of the on the farm since 1989; this one lives inspired ﬁrst by Rick Stein’s Food high-calcium water from the 1,000-ft up to its name—demure-looking, but Heroes and then by the legendary Chris (300-m) borehole, which adds to the with a suggestion of naughtiness, Ashby, who invented the original recipe. cheese’s ﬂavor and texture. captured in a lemony freshness. ENGLAND TASTING NOTES Small round with TASTING NOTES This is a handcrafted TASTING NOTES: The sweetness of the splotches of blue-gray on the outside traditional blue cheese, which matures ewe’s milk lends a caramel subtlety and blue streaks through the rich, in humidity-controlled cellars. Soft- that is gentle and moist, while the rind buttery Guernsey yellow interior. Mild rinded, ﬁrm, and creamy, it is lightly has a mushroomy taste and aroma. and spicy with a sea-breeze salty edge. veined, salty, and mildly tangy. HOW TO ENJOY Serve it spread on a chunk HOW TO ENJOY Tastes best when paired HOW TO ENJOY Melt together with of fresh, soft crusty bread, accompanied with Brittany cider or glass of sweet Warwickshire ale and Worcestershire by a glass of ﬁne port. Monbazillac wine. sauce, and spread on toast. ENGLAND Whitesmith, East Sussex ENGLAND Channel Islands ENGLAND Earlswood, West Midlands Age 4–5 weeks Age 5–8 weeks Age 3 months Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), square Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (150g), round Weight and Shape 11lb (5kg), cylinder Size D. 21⁄2in (6cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 3in (7cm), H. 3⁄4in (2cm) Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 6in (15cm) Milk Ewe Milk Cow, Guernsey Milk Cow 181 Classiﬁcation Soft white Classiﬁcation Blue Classiﬁcation Blue Producer Golden Cross Cheese Company Producer Torteval Cheese Producer Fowlers of Earlswood Francis Golden Cross Hereford Hop Working for James Aldridge, afﬁneur Kevin and Alison Blunt’s herd of 300 The lightly roasted hops give this and washed rind legend, James McCall goats grazes outside all summer and cheese its instantly recognizable always knew he wanted to follow in his enjoys a year-round diet of hay, which appearance, but it is the skill of the GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND footsteps. After a decade or so of making contributes to continuing success at the almost-legendary Charles Martell that cheese, he has returned to his passion, British Cheese Awards. From their milk ensures the quality under the surface. washing and maturing cheeses including comes a Sainte-Maure-style cheese, each He has also helped to preserve rare- this one made by Lyburn Cheese. log lightly dusted with charcoal and breed Gloucester cattle and to revive matured to a creamy, full ﬂavor. interest in perry, which is like cider, but TASTING NOTES Pale pink, sticky rind, made with local pears. dense buttery texture and pungent, TASTING NOTES Sweeter in taste than you barnyardy, savory notes with a brilliant might expect, it is soft and delicate, and TASTING NOTES Mellow sweetness is balance of acidity and richness from the redolent of those grassy pastures that thrown into relief by the aroma and milk. It won Best New Cheese in 2012, the goats enjoy. taste of the cheese’s coat of hops, like a proving that James has the touch. hint of beer permeating through. HOW TO ENJOY Complemented by celery HOW TO ENJOY Pair with a dry Riesling, on a cheese board, it is also an excellent HOW TO ENJOY A delightful addition to local cider, or Trappist style beer, or eat cheese for all sorts of dishes, thanks to the cheese board, particularly with a with local specialties like Dorset knobs. its gorgeous texture. dollop of homemade apple chutney. ENGLAND Dorset ENGLAND Whitesmith, East Sussex ENGLAND Dymock, Gloucestershire Age 6–8 weeks Age 3–4 weeks Age 10–12 weeks Weight and Shape 7lb 10oz (750g), drum Weight and Shape 9oz (225g), log Weight and Shape 5lb (2.2kg), round Size D. 5in (13cm), H. 3in (7cm) Size L. 51⁄2in (14cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 81⁄2in (22cm), H. 23⁄4in (7cm) 182 Milk Cow Milk Goat Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Semi-soft, washed Classiﬁcation Soft white Classiﬁcation Flavor-added Producer James’s Cheese Producer Golden Cross Cheese Company Producer Charles Martell & Son Holy Smoked Innes Button Isle of Wight Blue Liz Godsell makes a range of handmade This tiny unpasteurized goat’s cheese, Guernsey cows that munch on the cheeses at Church Farm, in the village made by Stella Bennett, was the ﬁrst riches of the Isle of Wight’s fertile of Leonard Stanley, including Single cheese ever to win Supreme Champion Arreton Valley help give this tangy yet Gloucester PDO using milk from their twice at the British Cheese Awards. It mellow cheese its creamy texture. farm. Her husband Bryan and the is now a favorite of culinary gurus such Richard Hodgson gave up a career as a extended family help milk, make, sell, as Anton Mosimann and Nigel Slater, ﬁlm editor to make cheese, while his and deliver the cheese. and top London cheese shops. mother, Julie, joined him after selling the family’s small hotel. TASTINGS NOTES It is a young single TASTING NOTES Perfection itself—soft, ENGLAND Gloucester slowly smoked over oak or almost mousselike, it melts in the TASTING NOTES A thick gray molded rind beech chips, so the woody, smoky mouth, releasing its lemony freshness hides a mellow, nutty paste, which is aromas are gradually absorbed by the with hints of walnuts and white wine smooth in texture with a slight spicy cheese, producing a ﬂavor reminiscent on the ﬁnish. Available with ash, pink bite from the blue. of smoked bacon in a creamy onion sauce. peppercorns, or chopped nuts. HOW TO ENJOY Simply enjoy it as it comes HOW TO ENJOY Smoked cheeses are best HOW TO ENJOY Savor on its own, spread or as part of a cheese board, or layer it grilled on toast, generously grated on a on soft, warm bread, or grill and serve with slices of fresh pear for rather baked potato, or served with a cool beer. with a Sauvignon Blanc or Viognier. special party canapés. ENGLAND Gloucestershire ENGLAND Tamworth, Staffordshire ENGLAND Sandown, Isle of Wight Age 4 months Age 3–7 days Age 3–5 weeks Weight and Shape 2lb (4kg), round Weight and Shape 13⁄4oz (50g), button Weight and Shape 8oz (230g), drum Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 2in (6cm) Size D. 2in (5cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Size D. 31⁄2in (9cm), H. 13⁄4in (4.5cm) Milk Cow Milk Goat Milk Cow 183 Classiﬁcation Flavor-added Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Blue Producer Godsell’s Artisan Cheese Producer Innes Cheese Producer Isle of Wight Cheese Company Kearney Blue Keltic Gold Lancashire Like many modern-day cheeses, this Full of pungency and character all at One of the great “territorial” cheeses of was ﬁrst made in a kitchen pot, in this the same time, this cheese from Sue England, Lancashire comes in three case near Kearney Village, County Proudfoot is rind-washed three times a main styles: creamy, tasty, and crumbly, GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND Down. It is made from the milk week with local cider until it is ripe. the latter being a fast-ripening and obtained from a few local farms, The resulting sticky terra-cotta rind high-acid recent creation. Its history carefully selected for its quality. should not be ignored—it is part of the goes back as far as the 13th century, pleasure of the eating. when every farmer’s wife made use of TASTINGS NOTES It has an attractive surplus milk. rustic blue-gray rind, and the deep TASTING NOTES Prepare to be deluged by yellow interior is buttery with layers of delicious notes, varying from TASTING NOTES Made by combining the scattered blue blotches. Also has a bacon to yeast, with distinct nuttiness curd from three consecutive days, it has spicy tang with salty sea spray ﬁnish. in between and a barnyardy ﬁnish. a mottled appearance, a soft, vaguely lumpy feel in the mouth, and a buttery HOW TO ENJOY With a rich ruby porter- HOW TO ENJOY Make a vegetarian version richness balanced by an oniony tang. style beer with lots of hops and plenty of a Cornish pasty with apple, onion, of fruit and toffee from Whitewater, and sage wrapped around Keltic Gold, HOW TO ENJOY Its meltingly smooth, even Northern Ireland’s largest or melt it with a little freshly grated consistency makes it ideal for anything microbrewery. nutmeg for an alpine-style fondue. from cheese on toast to savory pies. ENGLAND County Down ENGLAND Bude, Cornwall ENGLAND Around the Forest of Bowland, Age 4–6 weeks Age 4–6 weeks Lancashire Weight and Shape 11⁄4lb (550g), round Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1.5kg), drum Age 4–12 weeks for “creamy”; 12-plus weeks for “tasty” Size D. 4in (11cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) 184 Weight and Shape 411⁄2lb (19kg), cylinder Milk Cow Milk Cow Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 10in (25cm) Classiﬁcation Blue Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Cow Producer Kearney Cheese Company Producer Whalesborough Farm Foods Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various It was biochemistry. whose aim is to become originally a brilliant solution to the cheesemaker Hannah Roche. offers a full taste experience. chicken-breast excellent mature cheddar-style cheese. ice cream. ball Weight and Shape 44lb (20kg). creamy notes. melt on sourdough bread drizzled with olive a salad with sundried tomatoes. it with delicate. abundant supplies of spring milk from started Thimble Cheesemakers in Using milk from over 1. and oil and paired with a Sancerre or olive oil. 2in (5cm). 12in (30cm) Size D. 9in (23cm) H. grate it. Producer Thimble Cheesemakers . 1⁄2in (1. Lincolnshire ENGLAND West Worldham. cylinder Weight and Shape 11⁄2oz (40g).5cm) Milk Buffalo Milk Cow Milk Cow 185 Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Producer Laverstoke Park Farm Producer FW Read & Sons Ltd. cylinder Size D. or bake it with onions. HOW TO ENJOY This is best served grilled HOW TO ENJOY Served as canapés or in HOW TO ENJOY Eat it plain. Hampshire ENGLAND Alford. ENGLAND Overton. Distinct but delicious earthy Hard and chewy.500 water their herd of Holsteins. with a ENGLAND TASTINGS NOTES Bright white and lovely. and partner and fellow Scheckter. It be followed by others using raw milk. H. Hampshire Age a few days Age 12–24 months Age 10 days Weight and Shape 1⁄4oz (10g). they make yogurt. soon to buffalo. who self-sustaining and self-sufﬁcient. lively and complex. potatoes for a ﬁne gratin. 3⁄4 in (2cm) Size D. creamy Geotricum rind and an glistening. Little Ann was their ﬁrst. and has become 2013. bacon. with a in Hampshire. and balsamic vinegar. was Supreme Champion at the British Cheese Awards in 1996. with hints of fermenting fruit. Sancerre Rosé. ﬁnishing texture. it. an organic farm Once a traditional folk song. notes are characteristics. and cheeses from blue to Brie. it is now Made by Paul Thomas. TASTING NOTES Cabecou style.Laverstoke Ciliegine Lincolnshire Poacher Little Ann Laverstoke Park Farm. basil. a much-loved modern British cheese. was founded by former also a cheese invented by Simon Jones fascination and knowledge of Formula One World Champion Jody and made with his brother Tim. these marble-sized balls of TASTING NOTES This is similar to an almost liquid interior that is yeasty mozzarella have a soft. too. or serve caramelized onion chutney. TASTING NOTES Handmade with a TASTING NOTES It has a rustic reddish TASTINGS NOTES The sunshine yellow Camembert-like rind and a creamy brown rind. James and David’s ﬁrst up a career in London as an insurance 2012 Olympics. 3–41⁄2in Size D.5–4. oval holes and a middle. with a touch of caramel sweetness. ENGLAND North Wootton. to the elegant. and yet a texture. a deep burnt-caramel sweetness. round (18kg). it is now made by the Stonegate are the slopes of the Rother started in 2008. Little Ryding Lord of the Hundreds Mayﬁeld Previously made by Mary Holbrook Radiating out from the hamlet of Arthur Alsop and Nicholas Walker of Timsbury. 7–91⁄2in (18–24cm). There burnt onions and roast lamb. In 2004. from Lord London. The aroma starts with Sunday lunch on a plate. making a wide GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND recipe after deciding to concentrate on of itself within the subtleties of this range of cheeses. cheese went on sale. to the small Sussex Blue. supple texture. H. and a interior has large. with ﬂavors of Think pecorino. nutmeg and an intensely fruity tang. complement the fruity ﬂavor. to whom she sold her Valley. 4in (12cm) (7. using milk from cheese. dusted with gray. to great applause. using milk from the Bartlett brothers.8kg). round Weight and Shape 51⁄2–101⁄2lb Weight and Shape 35lb (16kg)–40lb Size D. with a light beer and apple chutney. goat cheese. this is like traditional British compactly satisfying density within. with mild nuttiness alongside is a taste of wild honey. grainy fermenting fruit and white wine. expect a dry. Swiss-style Mayﬁeld. 162 (40cm). 11⁄4in (3cm) (2. Somerset ENGLAND Stonegate. East Sussex ENGLAND Sussex Age 3–8 weeks Age 6–8 months Age 5–7 months Weight and Shape 7oz (200g).5–11cm) Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Soft white Milk Ewe Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Wootton Organic Dairy Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Alsop & Walker Producer The Traditional Cheese Dairy . broker for rewards of a different kind. HOW TO ENJOY: Serve simply with thin HOW TO ENJOY The maker recommends HOW TO ENJOY Pair with ciders to crackers and a side order of homemade quince jelly as the perfect complement. 4in (10cm). H. Cheesemaker Cliff Dyball gave a soft cheese created to celebrate the their own ﬂock. boulder 186 Milk Ewe Size D. H. a landscape that leaves hints surrounding farms. 7in (18cm).” The Based on a Dutch recipe. or savor the full taste of chunk of fresh crusty country-style making traditional Northumberland the Ayrshire milk by serving this bread. H. Over this excellent example—are designed to the Dutch washed-curd method. 11⁄4in (3cm) Size D.5kg). a month. 9in (20cm). it develops a ﬁne crusty brown smooth. onion. Matured for TASTING NOTES A Gouda-style cheese. moist. Weight and Shape 41⁄2–51⁄2lb (2. and he received so much support and and fantastic for cheesemaking. it is TASTING NOTES It has a light blue touch. and grated cheese.New Forest Blue Norsworthy Northumberland Gwyn and Ness Williams use pure Originally a naval engineer from It was a book about sheep and their Ayrshire milk from a herd grazed on Durham. Northumberland Age 6–8 weeks Age 1 month Age 12 weeks Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1. cheese as simply as possible. “the best milk we have ever tasted. makes a series of hard and soft cheeses. becomes more crumbly as it ripens. ale or a Merlot. they say.5kg). 41⁄2in (11cm) Milk Cow 187 Milk Cow Milk Goat Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Blue Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Northumberland Cheese Producer Loosehanger Cheeses Producer Norsworthy Dairy Goats Company . TASTING NOTES Its pleasant and mild ENGLAND taste deepens and lingers. Weight and Shape 5lb (2. crumble HOW TO ENJOY Delicious served with a HOW TO ENJOY The perfect choice for over salads. Wiltshire ENGLAND Norsworthy. extra blue tang. and creamy. Dave Johnson now has his cheeses that ﬁrst sent Mark Robertson the Hampshire Downs. H. 41⁄2in (11cm) Size D. ENGLAND Redlynch. HOW TO ENJOY Pep up risotto. accompanied by an English pale pan haggerty. round cylinder round Size D. mild. idiosyncratic characteristics. the years. Also available in ﬂavored versions. he has taken inspiration bring out the milk’s charmingly from various sources. own herd of 180 goats in Devon and down the artisan cheese road in 1984. it is. with with an attractive sharpness from that rind and a white paste within that hints of green grass and red onions. with its layers of potato. H. Norsworthy is encouragement that he ended up recipes for their cheeses—including made from unpasteurized milk using diversifying into goats and cows.3kg). Devon ENGLAND Blagdon. 63⁄4in (17cm). TASTING NOTES Old Winchester’s hard. ENGLAND North Cadbury. 41⁄2in (11cm) Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Hard Producer JA & E Montgomery Classiﬁcation Blue Producer Lyburn Farmhouse Cheesemakers Producer Loosehanger Cheeses . Bill Oglethorpe at Neal’s Yard natural gray-brown rind. a moist a fuller-ﬂavored cheese. who have been Montgomery had two Americans to that the Ayrshire cows’ milk will making their cheeses for eight years.5cm) 188 Milk Cow Size D. Somerset ENGLAND Redlynch. this is an treat. experiments. using the washed-rind yellow paste.5kg). and blue-gray veins amid a known as Old Smales. HOW TO ENJOY As an indulgent lunchtime HOW TO ENJOY Use as either a table HOW TO ENJOY Think of raclette. H. Wiltshire Age 4–5 months Age 6–8 weeks Age 16 months Weight and Shape 121⁄4lb (5kg) wheel Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1. with its is a yellow heart with an aroma as is a sweet-tasting blue that melts in distinctive nuttiness and lasting robust as its ﬂavor—onion soup and the mouth like rich. spicy butter. 3in (7. this brittle warm yellow interior. Old Sarum comes in the creamy. salty-sweet ﬁnale. yeasty bread. 121⁄2in (32cm). elegant cylinder with a satisfy customers who were looking for born. you know Mike and Judy Smales. came up with Old Winchester—still GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND hours using his Jersey milk in various velvet texture. tall Weight and Shape 9lb (4kg). 9in (23cm). stay. A cheese to get to know. H.” Thus Jersey Shield was form of a tall. 31⁄2in (9cm) cylinder Size D. almost TASTING NOTES Beneath the orange rind Italian soft blue cheese dolcelatte. It is also Dairy then began another round of interior. technique to arrive at this cheese. hard Italian cheeses. H. TASTING NOTES In the tradition of the smooth crust protects the hard. they all spent some enjoyable produce that characteristic smooth-as. but with “subtle nuttiness”—to “experiments. served in a crusty baguette with cheese or a vegetarian alternative to excellent West Country alternative that crispy. preferably heritage-breed bacon. melts like a dream. 63⁄4in (17cm). Wiltshire ENGLAND Landford. boulder Size D. Ogleshield Old Sarum Old Winchester When cheddar cheese maker Jamie With this dairy’s cheeses. and its the interior is smooth. Haydn outstanding cheeses such as this one. artisanal cheeses in 2008. 21⁄2in (7cm) H. HOW TO ENJOY Perfect on a cheese board. variety among cow and goat cheeses. almondy ﬁnish. It yields who like a clean ﬂavor. Although now and the quality of their milk results in from Somerset’s strong historical produced by Charlie Westhead. Size D. cheese is admirably low in cholesterol. 21⁄2in (6cm) base. resulting in a light. Herefordshire Age 2–3 weeks Age 4–12 months Age 1 week Weight and Shape 9oz (240g). using Pendragon to give point of recommending Perroche as a Shropshire’s own Wroxeter Vineyard. HOW TO ENJOY Assemble a sophisticated HOW TO ENJOY Chef Delia Smith makes a accompanied with a rosé or cider from cheese board. from their pure Saanen goats. Shropshire ENGLAND Ditcheat. beautifully mild cheese that grills well. 189 H. the cheese’s It is also available lightly smoked. while paste has a mild sweetness. name derives from the creamery’s TASTING NOTES The pale gray. H. Roberts. Pendragon takes its name in Gloucestershire. makes this ﬁrm cheddar-style use milk from a farm near Ashleworth passion and commitment to their work cheese. Their milk. Being made process. connections with the Arthurian myths. ENGLAND like a classic French chèvre. using milk producers in Britain to use buffalo’s available plain or rolled in fresh herbs.Pablo Cabrito Pendragon Perroche The Hamptons started making Philip Rainbow. one of a handful of These elegant individual cylinders. almost velvety understated character appeals to those TASTING NOTES Gently does it with this as it melts in the mouth. ENGLAND Bridgnorth. 6in (15cm). 2in (5cm) top. waxy yellow Beatrice Garroche. and the team.5kg). previous managers. and clean. 2in (5cm) (3. Somerset ENGLAND Dorstone. 23⁄4in (7cm) Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Milk Buffalo Milk Goat’s milk Producer Brock Hall Farm Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Fresh Producer Somerset Cheese Company Producer Neal’s Yard Creamery . mousse- nutty notes and gentle fresh acidity with buffalo milk means that the like texture with a subtle goaty taste on the ﬁnish. 7in (18cm) and 10in (25cm). soft. Perry James and wrinkly rind smells mildly goaty TASTING NOTES The hard. Size L. log Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg) and 71⁄2lb Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (150g). round cylinder Milk Goat Size D. Sir John and his milk.5cm). then purée. rind cheeses: Morn Dew. Cyres. 7in (18cm). cheddar-style goat cheese. It looks distinguished. curvy. Prue. with cow’s Westhead. truckle Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg). dusted with white. Quickes Hard Goat Rachel Ragstone The Quicke family has farmed the Peter Humphries makes two washed. 12in (30cm) Size D. 2in (5cm) 190 Milk Goat Milk Goat Milk Goat Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Soft white Producer Quickes Traditional Producer White Lake Cheeses Producer Neal’s Yard Creamery . light on the tongue. including this recently created gray. paired with a glass of Sancerre oven. Serve warm roux of rice ﬂour and milk. log Size D. and slightly nutty. Try HOW TO ENJOY Savor on its own or in a superbly. Devon ENGLAND Pylle. 23⁄4in (7cm) Size L. Another great cheese from Charlie same land for more than 450 years. This of taste experiences: rich and tangy. almost chewy. made with goat’s made in his ﬁrst creamery. H. and this one. but with a citric mushroomy notes and a lemony tang. with its ﬁne Sevenoaks in Kent. sharpness and a sweet nutty ﬁnish. Somerset ENGLAND Dorstone. round Weight and Shape 101⁄2oz (300g). it has a hint of is an excellent alternative for people meaty and savory. Ragstone was originally Aound 40 years ago. and oozy. it has TASTING NOTES Rachel is sweet. ENGLAND Newton St. with a whole raft lovely-looking product. based near GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND wife. add with the cheese to a or a single-varietal cider. on a bed of mixed leaves. Creamy yet almondy tang with a fresh acidity. 6in (15cm). until it is at melting point. Herefordshire Age 6–10 months Age 3 months Age 3 weeks Weight and Shape 53lb (24kg). H. HOW TO ENJOY This cheese melts HOW TO ENJOY This cooks superbly. 14in (35. bake in the wilting spinach or similar greens in a salad. H. and even yellow molds—it is the name to this cheese. drizzled with a little olive oil. to mind a Brie. and it is certainly a a subtle goaty taste and an aromatic. nearby Ragstone Ridge that lent its cheese. with an allergy to cow’s milk. TASTING NOTES The wrinkly rind will call TASTING NOTES Firm. built the dairy where their milk. Alternatively. and it was the daughter Mary continues to produce orange leathery rind. little water. most popular cheese he produces. 5in (13cm) and 7in (18cm) Classiﬁcation Soft white Classiﬁcation Blue Milk Cow Producer Ravens Oak Dairy Producer Ludlow Food Centre Cheese Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various . but colored Oakly Park Estate. in tarts. TASTING NOTES Smooth and soft with until 2005. on the outside but still cool on the HOW TO ENJOY Drizzle it with honey and inside. Proliﬁc by the late British blues to win Best Blue at the however. This mature on beech racks and develop its develops into a deeper goaty tang TASTING NOTES The distinctive tangerine. mellow nuttiness tang with cocoa notes to ﬁnish. bread from the Ludlow Food Centre deli. when the Leicestershire ENGLAND a white mold rind. its quality was 2013 British Cheese Awards. it beat off 84 It is still made by hand at the dairy.Ravens Oak Wood Red Leicester Remembered Hills Ravens Oak Wood is made at Named after the city of Leicester. TASTINGS NOTES It takes 3 months to almond ﬂavor when young. with annatto. ENGLAND Burland. 9in (23cm) Milk Goat Size D. colored interior is dense. H. with a sweet. a similar way to cheddar. HOW TO ENJOY Serve on toast. Farmhouse production in the “Shropshire Lad” about the blue county died out from the mid-1900s remembered hills at Shropshire. HOW TO ENJOY Try baking it until creamy that strengthens as it matures. 14in (35. smooth texture. H. If you want the full hit of goat.5cm) and 18in (46cm). it has a subtle Handmade Cheese Company revived it. It takes that it retains its smooth. 11⁄2in (4cm) (20kg). round Weight and Shape 22lb (10kg) and 44lb Weight and Shape 22lb (1O kg). 3in (7. cylinder Size D. which is now traditional English cheese is made in using milk from the Earl of Plymouth’s owned by Butlers Farmhouse Cheeses. this Made in batches of only four cheeses Ravens Oak Dairy. sticky blue-black rind. and streaks. grazing. Milk Cow 191 H. in small batches to ensure eighteenth century. or serve with Mahorall Farm Cider and leave to ripen until gooey. waxy. Shropshire Age 6–8 weeks Age 4–5 months Age 12–15 weeks Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (150g). Cheshire ENGLAND Leicestershire ENGLAND Ludlow. use it to add color to a cheese board. soft texture partly ascribed to the county’s excellent its name from a line in the poem and farmhouse character. 10in (25cm). thick blue internal as the cheese ripens. and lively spicy smooth. wheel Size D.5cm). butter taste with hints of cocoa on the Derbyshire. Initially made on small farms. and the landlord of the Bell Inn drained curds are left to ripen overnight.12in (30cm) Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Blue Producer Various . Derbyshire. baked in a quiche or tart. and soups. tall cylinder Size D. the of British cheeses granted Protected enterprising landlord. but all are registered as a trademark. Instead. there is no need to spoil BRITAIN Nottinghamshire. it was made. and Leicestershire This ﬁnish and sometimes a touch of decision ultimately saved the cheese walnuts or a slight sharp acidity. Nowadays. The cheese was therefore whole country licensed to make center to the outside like shattered porcelain. rather than where Cropwell Bishop in Nottinghamshire. Such was the popularity of the Today. signiﬁcantly longer in Stilton started serving a soft. which is in the town of Stilton. Long Clawson. 8in (20cm). blue-veined cheese made in the than most other cheeses. was soon Designation Origin (PDO) status sending Stilton to London. There are just six dairies in the erratically from the 1700s. Alternatively. and in accreditation in 2014. Stilton PDO A CLOSER LOOK To create the smooth buttery texture In the early 18th century. but not Sauternes. bells. England. upward by the European Commission. which is too sweet. nearby Leicestershire town of Melton Mowbray. territorial cheeses. and Leicestershire Age 9–14 weeks Weight and Shape 17lb (7. especially broccoli or celery soup. try an aromatic dry Riesling or light beer. try a tawny port or a crisp yet sweet wine 192 like Montbazillac. Tuxford & Tebbutt. The tradition of pouring port into Stilton came about to kill the creatures The Bell Inn. H. and intricate and time-consuming nature Hartington Creamery in Derbyshire. from mediocrity or even extinction— the fate of other ﬁne British ﬁne HOW TO ENJOY Ideal for sauces. of its production soon inﬂuenced which was granted Stilton Stilton makers to join forces.5 kg). Stilton is one of a handful cheese that Cooper Thornhill. The sweet richness of vintage port can overpower Stilton. the town of Stilton was a major staging characteristic of Stilton. the and Websters in Leicestershire. that gathered at the bottom of Stilton Peterborough. the Stilton or waste good port. with modern refrigeration. named after the place from which it Stilton: Colston Basset Dairy and was made famous. GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND 1875 the ﬁrst Stilton was produced by hand in a small factory. TASTING NOTES Each maker’s the Stilton Makers Association was cheese is slightly different. ensuring sharp and aggressive when eaten too that the cheese could only be made in young and mellow out to a rich. dressings. paired with spinach or crumbled over a grilled steak. or in a salad with a sweet balsamic dressing. Jagged blue lines radiate of a thousand a week by the mid. the freshly post on the London to York road. spicy the counties of Nottinghamshire. In 1910. it is removed and the curds allowed to drain overnight. each batch is graded. Quarter cylinder The interior should be straw yellow. By visual inspection and by smell. rough. narrow stainless steel needles to allow air to enter the body of the cheese. cylindrical stainless steel molds and placed on wooden slats. SALTING The curd is milled before being measured into special pans so the salt can be mixed through by hand. ENGLAND GRADING Before being released to the retailers. . THE MOLDS The curds are placed in tall. the grader can determine 193 whether the cheese is up to snuff. Some 17 gallons (77 liters) of milk are required to make one 15lb (7.5kg) Stilton. where gravity and the weight of the curd gradually force out whey through the holes in the sides of the hoops and through the bottom. open-ended. and crusty. An “iron” is used to bore into the cheese and extract a plug. PIERCING At about 6 weeks. not brown or dull. Once the cheese can stand on its own. each cheese is placed on a special stand and pierced with 18–20 long. with the pierced holes quite visible. The rind is dry. 2in (5cm). this delicately goaty and has chicory and soft. North ENGLAND Landford. It is made in the Yorkshire the pair made the pragmatic decision fresh curd began in the 17th century. still makes Sage winner at the British Cheese Awards. 4in (10cm) 194 Size D. round 1 Weight and Shape 4 ⁄2lb (2kg). taste and a delightful. melt it. Fowlers of Earlswood. Wiltshire ENGLAND West Midlands Yorkshire Age 3 days Age 10–20 weeks Age 8–12 weeks Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (100g). originally using milk most famous cheeses. Works well with an oaky melting or spreading. addition to the cheese board. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. 8in (20cm). round Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1. for HOW TO ENJOY With its ribbon of herbs. HOW TO ENJOY Serve on its own. to the their work. above all. TASTING NOTES With a ﬁrm yet supple texture like young Gouda. grate it. H. most are factory-made. and delightfully aromatic. excellent grazing for the goats. however. Derby traditionally. 21⁄2in (6cm) Milk Goat Milk Cow Milk Goat Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Flavor-added Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Rosary Goats Cheese Producer Various Producer Ribblesdale Cheese Company . Their fresh cheese West Midlands family producer. or. or add it at the this makes a colorful and distinctive Chardonnay or Merlot. H. and ash-coated versions. ENGLAND Horton-in-Ribblesdale. Dales’ Ribble Valley. where the natural to buy in milk from a herd of pedigree Today. boulder Size D. Rosary Plain is a consistent award. H. ﬁgs. thought to GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND cheese. As adding ﬁnely chopped sage. have health-giving properties. it also pale yellow cheese has a melted butter almond ﬂavors. 8in (20cm). it is TASTING NOTES Moist. but subtle. Ribblesdale Rosary Plain Sage Derby Original Goat Chris and Claire Moody began making Derby is one of England’s oldest and The late Iain Hill and his wife cheese in 1986. meltingly TASTING NOTES Softer than Cheddar. comes in ﬂavored garlic and herb. delicate from their own small herd of goats. fresh.5kg). The custom of Christine created this fresh. herbal ﬂavor from the sage. but the pastures and high rainfall provide Saanen goats. pepper-coated. bake it with HOW TO ENJOY Use as a table cheese. last moment to a ﬂuffy omelet. and niece Iona now carries on they became more successful. 5cm) H. Size D. 195 (4cm) H. milk of Montbéliarde and Friesian cows double cream.5kg). 1in (2. It is washed in brine and cheese after the great-granddaughter name for itself with its innovative matured for at least one month. It is especially good fruit. 8in (20cm) and 351⁄2in (90cm). round Size D. Or put a few dollops in among or a full-bodied red wine. is soft in the middle and the ﬂavor consistency with a full-bodied ﬂavor. Worcestershire Age 4–12 weeks Age 6 weeks Age 1–3 months Weight and Shape 6oz–61⁄2lb (175g–3kg). As the cheese ripens. rich meaty ﬂavor. and hint of mushroom. to whom a local approach to cheesemaking. the creamery—which overlooks is named after a former Bishop of and named this Camembert-style the rugged Atlantic coast—has made a Worcester. round (2. another from Mike Stacey. St. of a cheese board. Endellion St. and of Alfred the Great. Oswald is the latest addition to this that graze in pear orchards and on dairy’s repertoire. ENGLAND Broadway. grassy pastures.5cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Soft white Classiﬁcation Soft white Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Gorsehill Abbey Farm Producer Cornish Country Larder Producer Gorsehill Abbey Farm . It is made from the Brie-style cheese made with Cornish sticky orange-brown as it matures. Worcestershire ENGLAND Trevarrian. TASTING NOTES Luxury is the keynote ENGLAND here. the Cotswolds for more than 35 years. 11⁄2in Size D. 1996.St. HOW TO ENJOY Delicious warmed until HOW TO ENJOY Leave loosely wrapped for HOW TO ENJOY Serve as it comes with a the inside starts to run. with onion notes that becomes more pungent and meaty. and bake. lush. Oswald The Staceys have farmed at the foot of Started by two farming families in This cheese. or on the a couple of hours. H. 31⁄2–133⁄4in (9–35cm). a light ale.5cm) and 11⁄2in (3. Cornwall ENGLAND Broadway. thinly sliced potatoes. Eadburgha St. with a spicy white wine. 13⁄4in (4. fresh tanginess. supple paste TASTING NOTES This is at its best when it softens to a wonderful creamy becomes almost runny and has a full. 41⁄2in (11cm) and 133⁄4in (35cm). This is a the rind changes from yellow to a church is dedicated. Weight and Shape 7oz (200g) and Weight and Shape 12oz (350g) and 51⁄2lb round 2lb 3oz (1kg). become stronger as it ages. before serving as part good full-bodied red wine and dried cheese board with cider. the paste TASTING NOTES The smooth. The curd is farmers. HOW TO ENJOY Spread on soft ciabatta HOW TO ENJOY Serve on its own or HOW TO ENJOY Its creamy texture makes and serve with apple cider. enthusiastically. Swithin’s after the it its unusual shape and knobby rind. 23⁄4in (7cm). this moist scalded. creamy back and a buttery sweet ﬂavor balanced by “long” creamy and nutty ﬂavor that notes as it melts in the mouth. but brings out the lavender aroma. Devon ENGLAND Baylham.8kg). 7in (18cm). decided to start cheesemaking make double cream and a fresh soft placed. reminiscent of French tommes. along with or a luscious Oloroso sherry.3–4. crumbled over warm asparagus or into it a perfect snacking cheese. tied up natural mold-coated rind. Shipcord also melts and grills well. wheat beer. round Weight and Shape 33⁄4lb (1. local cheese lovers greeted them cheese called St. or topped with lavender or apricot. Rustic is made using sweet. 10in (25cm). TASTING NOTES Deep yellow with a TASTING NOTES The curds and whey are TASTINGS NOTES This cheese. St. using milk wines. H. a fresh.7kg). or grapes. after a river meadow on the farm. in a colander to give in 2006. develops a tangy acidity as it matures. elliptical Weight and Shape 91⁄2–101⁄2lb Size D. rich Richards family. celery. Suffolk Age a few days Age 6–8 weeks Age 6–12 months Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (100 g). 31⁄2in (9cm) (4. wheel 196 Milk Cow Milk Cow Size D. so when the Frettenham since 1946. Each cheese is named local church. gentle acidity. also famous for its outstanding a cheesemaking region. longstanding dairy GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND from mostly Brown Swiss cows to milk from the Jersey herd. Swithin’s with Sharpham Rustic Shipcord Lavender One of several cheeses produced on this Suffolk is not traditionally known as The Nortons have farmed at estate. Also available with chives and garlic. unpressed. apple. has a refreshing cheese has a wonderful creamy texture giving the cheese a close texture and a citrusy tang with mild. 4in (10cm) Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Cow Producer Nortons Dairy Producer Sharpham Partnership Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Rodwell Farm Dairy . H. ENGLAND Norfolk ENGLAND Totnes. glass of cider or fruity red wine. H 1in (3cm) Size D. with lilac rafﬁa. It is sold either plain. with a crackers. which a roast beet and pea shoot salad. served A full-bodied red wine HOW TO ENJOY an accompanying port or brown ale. as it was actually PDO Sean Wilson took to cheesemaking ﬁrst created in Inverness. with or pears and pickled walnuts. It was eventually adopted by the fame. ENGLAND equally creamy in texture. 2in (5cm). 10in (25cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow 197 Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Blue Classiﬁcation Blue Producer Various Producer Saddleworth Cheese Co Producer Various . of blue stand out against the orange TASTINGS NOTES It has a sticky. its streaks least one Gloucester cow. gray-blue interior. evening milk was cheeses after old Lancashire sayings: Stilton makers. with the addition of annatto it was rescued from extinction by opera Coronation Street. H. salads or melted in soups. this cheese is based on the recipe Protected Designation of Origin (PDO). 4in (11cm).estimate Size D. Producers must have at in grime after a full day’s play. with subtle hints notes wafting through a crumbly of vanilla and nuts. and a gentle acidity. but the cheese. he named his color. a traditional pear cider. this cheese is HOW TO ENJOY Best enjoyed with apples equally at home on a cheese board. buttery ﬂavor. H. it has a crust.Shropshire Blue Single Gloucester Smelly Ha’peth Rather oddly named. Traditionally. interior that is both sweet and nutty HOW TO ENJOY Spectacular crumbled into with a spicy tang on the ﬁnish.” with full milk the next morning to make and “Smelly Ha’Peth”—a child covered TASTING NOTES Milder than Stilton. mild. with perry. 81⁄2in (22cm). 8in (20cm). would complement this cheese perfectly. Passionate giving it its attractive mandarin orange Charles Martell of Stinking Bishop about all things local.” “Mouth Almighty. and smoky sweetness behind its spicy blue tang. 23⁄4in (7cm) Size D. ENGLAND Leicestershire and ENGLAND Gloucestershire ENGLAND Manchester Nottinghamshire Age 2–3 months Age 8 weeks Age 10–13 weeks Weight and Shape 5lb (2. then mixed “How’s Yer Father. cylinder Size D. Scotland. in One of the few English cheeses with with the same commitment he showed 1970. H. wheel Weight and Shape 1lb 5oz (600 g). skimmed to make butter. as Martin Platt in the British TV soap for Stilton. chunky blue streaks.25kg). There is a hint of caramel TASTING NOTES Firm but yielding. round 1 Weight and Shape 17 ⁄2lb (8kg). ENGLAND Worcester. who bought the recipe and decided to set up his own dairy in 2006 become one of the best-known and the dairy from the Ansteys. with hints of chicory and wild delicious. it cannot be called Stilton cheeses. HOW TO ENJOY Serve on crackers with some homemade pickle relish. with crackers and a glass of port. 81⁄2in (22cm) 3lb 3oz (1. 4in (10cm) Size D. Worcestershire ENGLAND Cuckney. Gloucestershire Age 4–6 months Age 12–14 weeks Age 5–8 weeks Weight and Shape 4lb (1. and make a blue. Snodsbury Goat Stichelton Stinking Bishop A joint venture in 2005 between Stichelton. provided leading used to make the perry (fermented Anstey. Stinking Bishop was created by leading cheese wholesalers Cheese success with Daylesford Cheddar. HOW TO ENJOY Ideal on the cheese board over salads and soups. and moves from a fruitiness smell suggests. H. to a spicy sweetness. and even featured in one of TASTING NOTES Dense with a smooth because it is made with raw milk. H. Nottinghamshire ENGLAND Dymock. or grate HOW TO ENJOY Serve on the cheese board. it is milder than the cheeses. It is now made inspiration for this cheese. with a goaty taste you ﬁnd in softer goat’s blue streaks. 8in (20cm). 13⁄4in (4. Based on the Stilton most-loved of English washed-rind recipe. this goat cheese is based on cheesemaker Joe Schneider with his pear juice) in which the cheese is GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND Double Gloucester. H. drum Weight and Shape 151⁄2lb (7kg).8kg). 8in (20cm). a thin band of wood. all carried within sticky golden rind are encapsulated in a creamy texture. round 198 Milk Goat Milk Cow Size D. it has a distinct almondy nuttiness rather than the more distinct TASTING NOTES Creamy white with bold TASTING NOTES Rich and meaty. he by Charles Martell in 1972. After his washed. Nick Park’s Wallace and Gromit ﬁlms.5cm) and 2in (5cm) Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Blue Milk Cow Producer Cheese Cellar Producer Stichelton Dairy Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Charles Martell & Son . It has Cellar. the original name for the Named after an old variety of pear Juliet Harbutt and Colin and Alyson village of Stilton.5kg). Stichelton is complex and hint of sweetness. 5in (13cm) and 81⁄4in (21cm). cylinder Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz (500g) and Size D. with pears and a robust red wine. The supple paste and herbs on the ﬁnish. creaminess. deep yellow color. blue. ENGLAND garlic and herb. Established in 2004. TASTING NOTES The ﬁrm. H. or melted under the broiler. and sweeter taste here with ewe’s milk. 13⁄4in (4. North Yorkshire Age 10–12 weeks Age 10 days Age 6–12 weeks Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb (3kg). and the organic generation. while the texture that ﬁnishes with sweet notes. 2in (5cm) Size D.5cm) Size D. the dairy also made with cow’s milk. edge of Ashdown Forest. ENGLAND Coddenham. West Sussex ENGLAND Gallowﬁelds. 61⁄2in (16cm). almost or is waxed at three days old for through in the mild sweetness and mousselike. Traditionally Cistercian monks from Normandy. round Size D. including a dense. with traces of salty brine and a mild TASTING NOTES The high butterfat goat ﬂavor. it is given a produces a soft white. H. baked potato or pasta. white paste has fresh cheeses. when it was introduced by and aged to develop a golden rind. it has a lemony fresh tang a slightly softer texture.Suffolk Gold Sussex Slipcote Swaledale Goat Creamy milk from this family-run The name derives from an old English Set up by David and Mandy Read dairy’s small herd of pedigree Guernsey word meaning a “little” (slip) piece of in 1987 and now run by the next cows (graced with names such as “cottage” (cote) cheese. Suffolk ENGLAND Horsted Keynes.5cm). 8in (20cm).5kg). crumbly feel and a sweet taste. or serve on plain HOW TO ENJOY Perfect with oatcakes and biscuits. HOW TO ENJOY Choose for subtle ﬂavor HOW TO ENJOY Best spread on bread or in soufﬂés and tarts. It has a natural brown rind. H. content in the Guernsey milk comes TASTING NOTES Very moist. 21⁄4in (5. wheel Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (100g). 31⁄4in (8cm) Milk Cow Milk Ewe Milk Goat 199 Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Suffolk Farmhouse Cheeses Producer High Weald Dairy Producer Swaledale Cheese Company . is ﬁrm with a few small holes. and peppercorn. an apple. button Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb (2. which is lightly pressed especially selected by this dairy on the century. continuing to use a recipe Madge and Armilla) is used to make milk used to make it comes from farms that possibly dates back to the 11th this cheese. but also a good addition to a crackers with a light ale. It comes in different ﬂavors. not so different from spinach or asparagus. As the cheese matures. Wild Garlic Yarg is similar but softer with a very subtle taste of garlic. sounded Cornish and was uniquely theirs. invested an enormous amount of time and resources to creating the best possible soil and diversity of pastures. Jersey. Not overpowering. TASTING NOTES With age. was ﬁrst made by Alan and Jenny Gray in individually picked—no stems or Withiel on the edge of Bodmin Moor. especially fruity whites or even they don’t sting. farmed nearby. or mild GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND careers—Catherine to work on the ale. the Horrell family. H. and pasta. no holes or debris. They are an amazing. the leaves start to break down the rind. 11in (28cm). they eventually decided that Yarg. Ben has a dessert wine. creamy taste. slightly mushroomy aroma and a wonderful taste. wheel Size D. Pengreep. Cornwall Age 6–12 weeks Weight and Shape 7lb (3. 31⁄2in (9cm) Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Flavor-added Producer Lynher Dairies . Trying to think of a good stalks. The Meads returned to the family The Meads serve it with a local cider. baguettes. the ﬁne crumbly 200 texture has a fresh. while the edible nettles impart a delicate. and not a local name. It also goes well with almost any Nettles are hand-picked locally in May when cheese and Ben to work with the wine. glamour to crostinis. and Friesian cows. baked in West Cornwall. started making the Yarg adds style and character to any Yarg. one of the most attractive and unusual by hand in open vats by a team of cheeses created since the revival of British artisan cheeses started dedicated cheesemakers. The Horrells have potatoes. since retired and all the cheese is it partners well with ﬁsh and is now made at Pengreep Dairy. year. they later partnered with cheese board. Gray spelled sun-scorch mark in sight. farm.3kg). perfect for use in vegetable gratins. made Yarg Cornish Cheese. In 1984. who built point and quickly adds a touch of a new dairy on their farm. resulting in exceptional- quality milk from their mixed herd of Ayrshire. Since then. Every nettle leaf that makes up the unique rind is in the early 1980s. It has a low melting Catherine and Ben Mead. dedicated team and now make 200 tons of cheese a year in their highly sustainable custom dairy. leaving behind their London perry (fermented pear juice). Yarg Cornish Cheese A CLOSER LOOK Each cheese is a labor of love. and are frozen to use later in the dairy herd. who HOW TO ENJOY Without doubt. backward. making it very soft and creamy. ENGLAND Truro. so each cheese emerges as a unique masterpiece and an example of human ingenuity working alongside Mother Nature. NETTLING The freshly formed. making a very attractive. where the nettles are applied by hand. with a subtle The combination of nettles and THE RIND As the cheese ripens. ENGLAND 201 Interior . eye-catching surface. ensuring that all the leaves overlap and no cheese is exposed. a ﬁne ﬂavor from molds speeds up the breakdown of gray mist appears around the jagged the nettles. Mild. pale ivory cheese is taken to the nettling room. the curd near the rind. edges of the green leaves. MATURING The cheeses are matured and carefully monitored to ensure even distribution of the white mold. crumbly. 3in (7. 11⁄4in (3cm) pyramid 202 Milk Goat Size D. 31⁄4in (8cm) Size D. period of outdoor grazing. dense and more ﬂavorful in the through as herbaceous with a hint like melted butter and mushroom middle. alongside the Awards. lemon and almonds. A coating of estate’s cow’s milk cheeses. soup. basket Weight and Shape 9oz (250g). with just a dash of sherry. and delicate. H. Hampshire ENGLAND Timsbury.5kg). with fresh fruity red wine. Somerset Age 2–3 months Age 6–8 weeks Age 3–8 weeks Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1. is also proving a winner. Winslade. Camembert-style her own herd. 41⁄2in (11cm). The goat ﬂavor comes a sumptuous texture. which strengthens and deepens as the cheese matures. the goats are on the beautiful thousand-year-old Champion at the British Cheese milked only from spring to fall. fruit. crumbly. Her recent creation. 11⁄2in (4cm) top. cheese—twice awarded Supreme Hills. H. charcoal and salt gives this cheese an attractive gray-white rind. using milk from made by award-winning cheesemaker highly acclaimed. ENGLAND Totnes. 7in (18cm). a former colleague. or perhaps a glass of until gooey soft. or transport it whole. Following tradition. The ﬂavor is and drier.5cm) Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Soft white Milk Goat Producer Sharpham Partnership Producer Hampshire Cheeses Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Producer Sleight Farm . this is now herd of Holstein cows to make this developed this cheese. 31⁄4in (8cm) base. or melted over poached pears. warm in the oven HOW TO ENJOY Eat as it comes. Sharpham rosé. truncated Size D. round Weight and Shape 9oz (250g). Devon ENGLAND Herriard. Milk Cow H. TASTING NOTES The stark white paste is TASTING NOTES A wrinkled. HOW TO ENJOY This works well in soufﬂés HOW TO ENJOY For complete melt-in-the- and tarts. in its wooden packaging. for a picnic. white rind ﬁne. their Sharpham Estate farm. Ticklemore Goat Tunworth Tymsboro Originally conceived by Robin Congdon Stacey Hedges uses milk from a local Former archaeologist Mary Holbrook of Ticklemore Cheeses. which grazes the Mendip GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND Debbie Mumford. or on the cheese board with a mouth indulgence. Tymsboro has a subtle ﬂavor of of marzipan. and dotted with hints of mushrooms conceals TASTING NOTES This is creamy at the edge with small holes. ﬁrst English goat’s milk cheeses on the Wellington’s estate from Guernsey Wedmore is a Caerphilly matured with market. Berkshire ENGLAND Westcombe. Vulscombe with locally sourced milk from behind Originally made at the Duckett farm has a slightly thicker feel than other. or warm it through and serve paired with a local cider. their home. H. HOW TO ENJOY With its decorative bay HOW TO ENJOY This is delicious at room leaf. Tom Calver at Westcombe Dairy. this was one of the was originally made on the Duke of famous for his authentic Caerphilly. Easy temperature with some cold green HOW TO ENJOY Great either on its own or to spread on crackers or bread. 61⁄2in (16cm).5cm) Size D. the Wigmores make it a thin layer of ﬁnely chopped chives. as this Created by the eminent Chris Duckett. ENGLAND Cruwys Morchard. 3in (7. dairy. TASTING NOTES Unlike most fresh TASTING NOTES Bite through the soft. with equal care and passion for quality. or try it grapes. but crumbly and moist herbaceous goaty tang. H. which hides a wonderful in Wedmore village. it is now made by similar cheeses.5cm) 203 Milk Goat Milk Cow Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Soft white Classiﬁcation Flavor-added Producer Vulscombe Cheese Producer Village Maid Cheese Producer Westcombe Dairy Company . 13⁄4in (4.5cm). round Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg). when it is waxy freshness and a barely discernible young that matures to a rich. soft TASTING NOTES Wedmore is ready to eat in the mouth. with slices of crisp apple. rather than with rennet. Made by lactic fermentation milk. creamy taste when after just two weeks. wheel Size D. The mild saltiness is balanced by the tang of chives.Vulscombe Waterloo Wedmore Created in 1982 by Josephine and The name is no coincidence. or sweeten in a twice-baked soufﬂé. Nowadays. buttery on the surface. it feels thick rather than light lightly molded rind into the pale. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. but it has a citrusy paste for a mild. Graham Townsend. Somerset Age Up to 5 weeks Age 4–10 weeks Age 2 weeks Weight and Shape 6oz (170g). 63⁄4in (17cm). ﬂavor as the cheese ages. H. with a tangy red onion chutney. it looks good a cheese board. ENGLAND cheeses. once a workshop and stables. 3in (7. Devon ENGLAND Riseley. inside. round Weight and Shape 11⁄2lb (675g). 8in (20cm). it has allied with a ﬁne. green by refreshing acidity. Pigswill. and lingering peppery ﬁnish. crumbled into salad. She has also 2014. forgotten Wiltshire cheese. and ENGLAND Wiltshire Leicestershire Age 2 months Age 6–12 weeks Age 3–4 weeks Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb (3 kg). made outside the designated area. In from locally produced milk. make great partners. recognition of the army base nearby. Wensleydale PGI White Stilton PDO Wiltshire Loaf First crafted by Cistercian monks White Stilton has a Protected Ceri Cryer started in 2005. In with apricot goes very well with a HOW TO ENJOY Both Great Bustard or Yorkshire. crumbly moist texture. Yorkshire Wensleydale achieved be pasteurized. North Yorkshire ENGLAND Derbyshire. 7in (18cm). A popular base for named her Royal Wotton Blue in PGI status. creamy mild ﬂavor of gray and brown molds is an open but dense slightly ﬂaky texture. 31/2in (9cm) Size D. rich in hops and available sweetness with a piece of apple pie. put on the map when it won Best Calvert. which she GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND farmers’ wives and the legendary Kit Nottinghamshire. wheel Weight and Shape 11lb (5kg). or grass notes. cylinder Size D. inspired in the 12th century. 9in (23cm). 7in (18cm) 204 Size D. texture like young Caerphilly. with refreshing acidity. H. H. White TASTINGS NOTES Under the light dusting TASTING NOTES Pale white with a ﬁrm Stilton has a fresh. and Leicestershire. they also like to pair the sweet dessert wine. H. Wensleydale was Designation of Origin (PDO). which must British Cheese Awards. cylinder 1 Weight and Shape 17 ⁄2lb (8kg). 10in (25cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Brinkworth Dairy Producer Wensleydale Dairy Products Producer Various . Nottinghamshire. ensuring that it cannot be many blended or ﬂavor-added cheeses. meaning by the discovery of a recipe for a long- gradually perfected by numerous it can be made only in Derbyshire. and immortalized by Wallace other requirements are that it is made Territorial Cheese in 2013 at the and Gromit in the 20th century. HOW TO ENJOY Savor as it comes. locally. White Stilton HOW TO ENJOY With crackers. buttery a subtle wild honey ﬂavor balanced yet not rich. ENGLAND Wensleydale. TASTING NOTES Much underrated. 51⁄2in (14cm). H.2kg). H. releasing its that hints of pine nuts and green grass. ENGLAND Windrush. it is the ﬁrst carbon. 11⁄4in (3cm) Size D. 13in (34cm) Size D. or garlic. so a good strong hoppy beer grated and used in cooking in place Sauvignon Blanc. It is also North Downs. and hay.Hard and compact. Windrush is made by two 1495. peppercorns. is the perfect partner along with fresh of cheddar. farmers since Woolsery Goat is the result of Annette methods. HOW TO ENJOY Eat on the cheese board. apples or sweet apple chutney. yet with a subtle but distinct goaty taste ENGLAND TASTING NOTES Windrush is only made it melts in the mouth. 21⁄2in (6cm). TASTING NOTES Moist and open-textured TASTING NOTES. cylinder Size D. Dorset Age 5 days Age 9–10 months Age 8–12 weeks Weight and Shape 4oz (115g). It has a luxurious savory cheese and onion tang balanced It has a sea-breeze salty ﬁnish. Oxfordshire ENGLAND Kent ENGLAND Up Sydling. Renee and Richard using only morning milk to retain the cheesemaking as well as of the lush Loveridge.Kent is famous for apples It is perfect for a cheese omelet or or eat simply as it is with a cool and hops. who moved to the Windrush freshness and the heat.Windrush Winterdale Shaw Woolsery Goat Modeled on traditional French The Betts family of Kent. Very addictive. 11in (28cm). 51⁄4in (13cm) Milk Goat Milk Cow Milk Goat 205 Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Windrush Valley Goat Dairy Producer Winterdale Cheesemakers Producer Woolsery Cheese . H. make this cheddar-style cheese Lee’s dedication to unique artisan Australians. creamy texture and a lemon-fresh tang with the rich creaminess of the milk. available ﬂavored with herbs. with hints of fruitiness and white wine. round Weight and Shape 22lb (10 kg). cylinder Weight and Shape 5lb (2. Matured green slopes of Dorset that allow the Valley in 2003 and quickly established in stone cellars deep in the chalky goats to graze on an abundance of grass a dedicated local following. together with some apple or pear. neutral cheese in the UK. HOW TO ENJOY Crumble it into tarts HOW TO ENJOY. in small batches. is smooth and springy with a mild ﬂavor TASTINGS NOTES Anster has a coarse TASTING NOTES It is soft and creamy with redolent of buttercups and meadows. H. Highland Age 4 months Age 3–6 months Age 3 months Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb (3kg). bounded by a natural brown rind. jam. 13in (34cm). He has cheese in 2008 using delicious Rory Stone. Scotland SCOTLAND Tain. ENGLAND Bath. The ﬁnish has a lemony tang. cube Size D. H. estimate Size D. SCOTLAND Wyfe of Bath Anster Blue Murder Named after Chaucer’s pilgrim. serve it on a cheese HOW TO ENJOY Try Jane’s cheese scone HOW TO ENJOY Perfect for a cheese board. grate the cheese over roasted parsnips. and cheese caviar. Andrew’s Farmhouse Cheese Producer Highland Fine Cheeses . 10in (25cm). with this excellent award-winning cheese. blackberry this is also great for a soufﬂé or blue a fruity Beaujolais. cheesemaker and owner established an excellent reputation in unpasteurized milk from her herd of Highland Fine Cheese using milk the region for cheesemaking skills. and is mildly spicy. It has a kick of HOW TO ENJOY It seems a waste to cook cider. cylinder Weight and Shape 11⁄2lb (675g). a at Falside in Fife for over 50 years. 11in (28cm). 31⁄2in (9cm) 206 Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Blue Producer Bath Soft Cheese Producer St. and made by GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND pioneer in the cheese world. and a fresh. fruity hints of gold leaf and the sea breeze tang like sweet apples with a hint of on Highland pastures. malt and chocolate. board with crusty bread and recipe. dairy where they make their cheeses. of home-bred Holstein Friesian cows. the crowd. it deﬁnitely stands out from TASTING NOTES The yellow paste. instead. 15in (38cm) Size D. H. or ﬁnely cheese mousse. this is made by Graham Padﬁeld. Cheshire-like texture. Somerset SCOTLAND Fife. 31⁄2in (9cm). serve with oat cakes. who wanted to create a cube-shaped third-generation farmer and a family but Jane Stewart only started making blue with character. The Stewart family have farmed The brainchild of Juliet Harbutt. or a sweet fruit chutney. basket Weight and Shape 22lb (10 kg). collected from the northern dairy They now have a wonderful new cheese herd. Highland Galloway Age 3 weeks Age From 2 days Age 6–8 months Weight and Shape 9oz (250g) and 21⁄4lb Weight and Shape 41⁄2oz (120g). or in a quiche with lots of onto smoked ham and toasted bread chopped chives. H. and Norwegian with skim milk. Very satisfying. the banks of the Moray Firth. SCOTLAND Wigtownshire.Cairnsmore Ewes Clava Brie Crowdie Made with milk from the farm’s own At Connage Highland Dairy. 9in (23cm) H. TASTING NOTES A fresh lemon acidity and the taste of crushed almonds on TASTING NOTES With hints of old-style TASTING NOTES Under the crusty white the top of the mouth. mushrooms. Dumfries and SCOTLAND Ardersier. The crumbly and SCOTLAND caramel toffee. 11⁄2in (4cm) truckles Size D. They graze on the lush as gruth. with a rusty-red sandpaper cheeses using their own Jersey Cross. Clothbound and aged for a Red cows. Inverness SCOTLAND Tain. Cairnsmore Ewes is family is making some truly wonderful the Vikings. made by crofters—tenant farmers— rind that resembles the landscape of Holstein Friesian. it is known Mars. it achieves pastures of clover and wild herbs on a wonderful full ﬂavor.5kg). 7in (18cm). HOW TO ENJOY A great alternative to HOW TO ENJOY Ideal for the cheese board. crowdie was traditionally aromatic. the paste is soft and creamy with creamy ﬁnish hints of freshly baked and has hints of boot polish developing the subtle taste of sweet meadows and yeasty bread. smeared with English mustard. 3in (8cm). the taste becomes more complex and slightly bitter. into a salty sweetness. minimum of six months. 41⁄2in (11cm) and 10in (25cm). With age. 207 Milk Cow Size D.5kg). bread. it is moist on the mouth rind. round Size L. In Gaelic. or spread on oatcakes with pickled onions and warm crusty cheese on a cheese board. the Clark Believed to have been introduced by ﬂock of ewes.5cm) Classiﬁcation Fresh Milk Ewe Milk Cow Producer Highland Fine Cheeses Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Soft white Producer Galloway Farmhouse Cheeses Producer Connage Highland Dairy . H. log Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1. 1in (2. or melt ﬁne smoked salmon. (1. heavy cream in the Scottish dessert but also good with a crisp salad with HOW TO ENJOY Serve alongside a hard cranachan. 10in (26cm). Here summers are short. in the Camphill Trust near Dumfries. ﬁne. pale a crispy outer crust. 21⁄2in (6cm) 208 Milk Cow. or on its own with scrumpy Children love it on toast with and the weather. At six months. 12in (30cm) Size D. 12in (30cm). quirky nature of its creator. add slices to oatcakes HOW TO ENJOY A cheese that reﬂects the HOW TO ENJOY Great on a British cheese with mustard and a dram of whiskey. enjoy it with hot scones and Assam tea. topping of a buttery apple crumble. SCOTLAND All over SCOTLAND Isle of Mull SCOTLAND Dumfries. Alternatively. board. Dunlop is now made by a ruggedly beautiful Isle of Mull. responsible a brown. the rind develops with the spent grain husks. the cows’ grassy diet is supplemented After two months. raw Milk Cow Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Isle of Mull Cheese Producer Loch Arthur Creamery . the feed. 5in (12cm). You can almost and garlic bite that ensures those who taste the cows trampling the grass in HOW TO ENJOY An afternoon tea favorite. TASTING NOTES Sweet and mild in taste. so literally hung out to dry in a cloth. Kebbuck has a the texture is similar to soft fudge. at interior with a fermented aroma and subtle sweet to peppery taste with a 12 months it is ﬁrm and fragrant. Dumfriesshire Age 6–12 months Age 6–18 months Age 2 months Weight and Shape 44lb (20kg). the morning dew. it for the pale color of the cheese. has a pale primrose yellow rind and a TASTING NOTES A spongelike center with buttery cheddar paste. H. it should be enjoyed (hard cider). prehistoric appearance. The best are made with weather wild. H. teardrop Size D. cylinder Weight and Shape 13⁄4 lb (800g). cylinder Weight and Shape 53lb (24kg). taste. TASTING NOTES It has a hard. taste it return for more. this handful of cheesemakers across Inner Hebrides. It develops a feisty raw onion mild ﬁnish of beeswax. and grain expensive. It can also be added to the warm milk. traditional Ayrshire milk. H 13in (33cm) Size D. with a wee dram of Tobermory whiskey. distinctive cheese is washed then GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND Scotland. Dunlop Isle of Mull Cheddar Kebbuck Revived in the mid-1980s by Anne The Reade family farm is on the Made by the wonderful people of Dorward. 5kg). Highland Age 3 months Age 4 weeks Age 3 months Weight and Shape 4lb (1. Orkney Islands SCOTLAND Tain. H. Dunsyre (cow) and it has the consistency. makers of with two other blues. one of Scotland’s Biggar (goat). baked soufﬂés or with walnuts and with celery hearts and crumbly crackers A good breakfast cheese. There is a hint of TASTING NOTES It is soft in the center. but not the taste.8kg). and is as sharp as like an old brewing room on the ﬁnish.8kg). TASTING NOTES Pale with a chewy bite the sticky golden rind. The of Wensleydale. and a lemony zest. p206). has butternut squash. drum Weight and Shape7lb 7oz (3. SCOTLAND Carnwath. 5in (12cm) pressed rounds Size D. Scotland by Rory Stone. Lanarkshire SCOTLAND Kirkwall. it sits well on or grated over a winter salad with hot with grilled ham. H. Caboc (see p210–211). Weight and Shape 6lb (2.Lanark Blue Orkney Strathdon Blue Created by Humphrey Errington and Made by Hilda Seator on her farm on Made in Tain on the east coast of now made by daughter Selena. it goes well dressed salad leaves. and a yeasty breath TASTING NOTES Well-spread blue veining SCOTLAND a crumbly outer crust. It can sometimes ﬁnish with the rib of Highland beef. along the isolated. H. of sweetness and steely blues. cooked eggs. wheel Size D. and a slight peppery taste and spicy grapefruit with the meatiness of an aged tang. and Blue Murder (see cheese develops a complex ﬂavor due to no rennet is used. and is great melted roasted onions and winter squash. It is a lactic cheese. and warm. so oldest cheeses. or alongside traditional HOW TO ENJOY Outstanding in twice- HOW TO ENJOY It is great on a cheese board fruitcake with a cup of afternoon tea. 6in (16cm). 5in (12cm). 4in (10cm) Milk Ewe Size D. 2in (5cm) Milk Cow 209 Classiﬁcation Blue Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Blue Producer Errington Cheese Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Highland Fine Cheese Producer Grimbister Farm . Also has elements HOW TO ENJOY It can be enjoyed with a essence of mousselike milky chocolate. windswept Orkney Island. it develops smudges of silver- the wild heather and natural pastures gray mold and patches of sky blue on on which the ewes graze. 12in (30cm). on steaks. lightly. and several others. raisin bread. single malt whiskey when crumbled onto cornbread. Caboc is similar to crowdie (see she set about recreating the recipe. generation to generation. exposed to the cold northerly winds. While the Romans played a signiﬁcant role in improving Caboc developed out of the raw cheesemaking in England. HOW TO ENJOY Caboc is at home on any grand dining room cheese table. The milk comes from the Caboc is made with extra cream. Slice onto a blood orange or clementine salad with a handful of bitter salad leaves. Lord of the Isles. When she returned home some Ayrshire. having been collected from two dairy farms in Caithness. who was forced to ﬂee to Ireland to As a result. or stir into ﬂuffy mashed 210 potatoes served with sliced roast ham and onion relish. most likely introduced by the Vikings. the cows are of sturdy avoid abduction and marriage by the stock. While Company. Instead. most cheese was made by crofters. L. and store more fat to the Isle of Skye. logs Size D. pleasant gentle crunchy feel. it is made in exactly the same made from milk that has curdled way at Highland Fine Cheese naturally without rennet. SCOTLAND Tain. p207). turning the elements. sour cream.and rich milk of the island into a richer solids-rich milk that is ideal for and more ﬁtting cheese for the Lord cheesemaking. oats give it a nutty yeasty ﬂavor and a small round vat where starter cultures are Using raw milk from their own farm. a barren. then stirred and left to slowly ripen in milk churns for upward of 3 months. it TASTING NOTES Made with survived by being passed on. daughter treeless area that is fairly ﬂat and of The Macdonald. Highland Age 3+ months Weight and Shape 33⁄4oz (110g). it feels very rich. and buttery with a nutty taste it had all but disappeared until its but slightly sharp on the ﬁnish like MILK CHURNS The cream is skimmed revival in 1962 by Susannah Stone. added. Caboc A CLOSER LOOK Like many artisan cheeses. cream-enriched milk. but is also versatile in the kitchen. a traditional Scottish cheese Today. A Stone family favorite is to grill some on haggis from the excellent local butcher served with a glass of Glenmorangie whiskey made Sturdy Highland cattle just down the road. of the Isle and his clan. Like so many great recipes. Ruaraidh. 31⁄4in (8cm) Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Fresh Producer Highland Fine Cheeses . owned and run by her son crowdie is made with skim milk. and poured into a a distant descendant of the creator. into Scotland. their inﬂuence did not cross the borders materials available—an abundance of milk and Scottish oats. traditional Friesian with Campbells. although smooth. this gives a protein. It is most northerly herds on mainland said to have been created in the 15th Scotland in Caithness. she brought with to protect them from the harsh GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND her the recipe for Caboc. century by Mariota de Ile. while the toasted pinhead from the milk. 11⁄2in (4cm). sliced The crunchy oatmeal is the perfect counterbalance to the soft. She felt the ﬂavor was enhanced with the addition of the meal and that it added a nice texture. THE OATMEAL Rolling the small cheese in toasted pinhead oatmeal was an invention of Susannah’s. creamy interior.MANUAL PRESSING The cream SHAPING The soft curd is very malleable and milk sours and is poured into bags hung and is easily shaped into logs. The texture is more like cream cheese than cheese. to drain. . SCOTLAND 211 Log. TASTINGS NOTES Bright orange curd with a smooth. its mature ﬂavor has a slight raw subtle nutty ﬂavor.4kg). is also delicious with fresh fruit and traditionally made with wild style blues. served with a rich Bordeaux. H. it goes well with a sweet preserves.5 kg). 2in (5cm) 212 Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Blue Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Bodnant Welsh Food Producer Carmarthenshire Cheese Producer Pant Mawr Farmhouse . 10in (25. and in founded Carmarthenshire Cheese in Preseli Mountains. cousins. cylinder Weight and Shape 51⁄2 lb (2. HOW TO ENJOY Perfect for Welsh rarebit which makes this a very appealing blue. dense. which has been in years of experience in the cheese world.5 in (22cm) Size D. It Welsh whiskey or Innkeeper’s Tipple. Following the success of their in 1983 when the Jennings family Centre in the old farm buildings. blueberries. situated in the heart of the Michael’s family since 1874.WALES Aberwen Boksburg Gold Blue Cerwyn Michael and Caroline McLaren own Steve and Sian Pearce. and excellent in sauces for whinberries. 8. H. try Penderyn board. they expanded to returned from setting up a dairy include two new blues and the hard enterprise in Libya and North Yemen. crunchy fresh celery or in a soufﬂé. velvety texture and buttery crumbly clothbound cheese with a streaks of contrasting blue make this color. single herd and made to a 300-year. and onion tang and a nutty aftertaste. soft. with over 60 Cerwyn is produced on Pant Mawr Furnace Farm. 10in (20cm). Pont Gar range. but now their cultivated wine or a hoppy beer and is great with dishes such as macaroni and cheese. 3in (7. H. wheel Size D. wheel Weight and Shape 3lb (1. and for melting on toast. Farm. cheese stand out. WALES Conwy WALES Carmarthenshire WALES Clynderwen.5cm) Size D. it is an elegant. TASTINGS NOTES Using milk from a Llangloffan range. It is smooth. if you are in the area.5cm). HOW TO ENJOY It is perfect for the cheese or. TASTING NOTES Hard but unpressed with old recipe. 7in (18cm). Pembrokeshire Age 4–5 months Age 11–13 weeks Age 6 months Weight and Shape 22lb (10 kg). and was established GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND 2010 decided to set up a Welsh Food 2006. HOW TO ENJOY Like most Continental. distinct yet mild with a savory acidity. 5 (1.5in) Size D. creamy texture. almost meaty ﬁnish. H. It has good bread.5in). pure white. glass of chilled beer. savory. Serve with Sancerre or rosé. including this modern Welsh classic. country. WALES Pembrokeshire WALES Credigion. creamy quality with or without fresh herbs. smooth. and today their son Carwyn their own Ayrshire cow’s milk. of the milk gives the cheese a full yet pure taste. melt over bruschetta with vine spread on your favorite crusty bread melting properties and is excellent in tomatoes. and mild-tasting cheese with a WA L E S crusty. TASTING NOTES The rich. and delicious with crusty bread and a HOW TO ENJOY Spread thickly on crusty HOW TO ENJOY Perfect for a picnic lunch. grassy ﬁnish. cheesecake mixed with fresh herbs. H. Monmouthshire Age 4–6 weeks Age 12 months Age 3 weeks Weight and Shape 250gm (9oz). Thelma played a on the longest-established organic farm cheese in Wales. it has proved extremely leading role in reviving Welsh in Wales.Golden Cenarth Hafod Pant-Ys-Gawn Caws Cenarth. West Wales WALES Abergavenny. hard and chewy with a lively. was started by Gwynfor and Thelma Soil Association. Sam Holden. it is available created a number of new cheeses. washed-rind cheese. complex clean. a pale ale. HOW TO ENJOY Ideal for the cheese board. in the heart of Wales. 10in (25cm) Size D. and a green.5cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Goat 213 Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Fresh Producer Caws Cenarth Producer Holden Dairy Farm Producer Abergavenny Fine Foods . or dry Riesling. H. 10in (25cm). cylinder Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (100g). using a cheddar recipe and successful in supermarkets across the Caerphilly. Named after the family farm continues to make it. it is supple tang. 1in (2. strong. TASTINGS NOTES A Vacherin-style orange. 21⁄2in (6cm). drum Size D 11cm (4. round Weight and Shape 22lb (10kg). created Hafod in 2008 the ﬁrst commercial producers of goat Adams in 1987. it becomes TASTING NOTES It is a fresh. They have also where it was ﬁrst made. 3. It is refreshing with hints of meadow ﬂowers. gratin dishes. son of the founder of the Made by Abergavenny Fine Foods. and with age. and a and crisp with a mild goaty ﬁnish. or make a delicious savory and serve with charcuterie. with a cheese. pungent farmyard aroma. 3in (8cm) and 4in (10cm) Classiﬁcation Soft white Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Cow Producer Carmarthenshire Cheese Company Producer Teiﬁ Farmhouse Cheese Classiﬁcation Blue Producer Caws Cenarth . WALES Boncath. dumpling 51⁄2lb (2. nuts. wheel Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg). melted on hot sirloin steak. it has a mild. on the ﬁnish. H. and a sweet shaped cheese with a pink-orange rind. a herbaceous ﬁnish.4kg). Carmarthenshire WALES Llandysul. Perl Las Pont Gar Saval Thelma Adams. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D.” create their own range of soft cheeses from raw milk. typical of a true blue. creamy texture. Cheeses has created a number of Caerphilly in 1987 with raw milk Having worked in the dairy industry for hard cheeses. yet strong taste with a spicy. 2in (5cm) 214 Size D. vaguely buttery taste with a slight sharpness a supple and elastic yellow interior. used in a dressing for fresh. H. started making traditional in 2006 by Steve and Sian Elin Peace. crisp is delicious with seasonal fruits and and beautifully accompanied by a salads. and made with herbs. 4in (10cm) and 8in (20cm). meaty ﬁnish. moldy TASTING NOTES A soft white Brie-style aroma. It also makes tawny port. a savory. Some have been made followed in 2001. a cheesemaker from Carmarthenshire Cheese was founded John Savage at Teiﬁ Farmhouse Wales. using the excellent local milk. James Aldridge. Carmarthenshire WALES Carmarthen. Milk Cow Milk Cow H. Best with a dry Riesling. TASTING NOTES It has an earthy. or cider. which 25 years. Serve with a New World Merlot dry Gewürztraminer. in conjunction with Britain’s ﬁrst afﬁneur. and washed-rind cheeses translates from Welsh as “Blue Pearl. or HOW TO ENJOY This cheese-board classic HOW TO ENJOY A must for cheese lovers. and a mellow with a hint of mushrooms. 41⁄2in (11cm). HOW TO ENJOY A good blue for the cheese board. Perl Las. Powys Age 12–16 weeks Age 5 weeks Age 6–7 weeks Weight and Shape 1lb 5oz (600g) and Weight and Shape 3lb (1. It can also be smoked or distinct. wheel Size D. 10in (26cm).5kg). a pungent addition to a fondue. including a traditional GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND from her own herd. or beer. they decided to join forces to Caerphilly. velvety texture TASTING NOTES This is a dumpling- smooth. 7in (18cm). fruity. Smooth and supple a sweet savory taste and a meaty nutty freshness. with age it becomes WA L E S when young. and can be grated. Cork IRELAND Carrigtwohill. in the Teiﬁ valley give the cheese an with a sticky terra-cotta rind. H. hard. and can be used in cooking can be melted over vegetables. Also delicious smoked. brittle. H. rounds Milk Cow Milk Cow Size D. It ﬁnishes with an aromatic tang. 3in (10cm) (250g–11kg). to an omelet. It is also suitable for a Ardsallagh pairs well with reds. almost aftertaste that intensiﬁes with age. wild pastures TASTING NOTES Pale golden in the center bottled milk. it has a exceptional ﬂavor—herbaceous. Teiﬁ Farmhouse. hard and soft cheeses including an excellent Crottin. big: 12–14 weeks Age 4 months minimum Weight and Shape 33lb (15kg). Carmarthenshire IRELAND Kanturk. 3–14in (8–35cm). where a strong cheese is required. Cork Age 6–12 months Age Small: 4–6 weeks. after Gouda— Ardrahan remains one of Ireland’s them to produce a range of handmade the cheese of his homeland. 4in (10cm). or added HOW TO ENJOY On the cheese board. 400 goats provide the milk that enables cheese. It’s a glass of beer. Their heart of Wales. cheese board. supple. with an almondy mellowness. with age. HOW TO ENJOY A classic for any cheese HOW TO ENJOY It melts superbly. wheel Weight and Shape 9oz–241⁄4lb Size D. with a savory tang. as well as yogurt and TASTING NOTES The lush. so it board. and can be enjoyed with Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. A smoked version is also produced. boulder Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg). and modeled his ﬁrst of the milk from their own herd. also good for use in quiches and tarts. best-loved washed-rind cheeses. H. creamy interior with TASTING NOTESWhen young it has a mild. such as Perfect with Chardonnay. or cider. it becomes dry. 21⁄2in (6cm) Size D. WALES Llandysul. IRELAND Teiﬁ Farmhouse Ardrahan Ardsallagh After moving from the Netherlands. Founded in county Cork by Eugene and Jane and Gerard Murphy run the John Savage set up his dairy in the Mary Burns in the 1980s to make use Ardsallagh farm and dairy. 11⁄2–5in 215 (4–12cm) Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Goat Producer Teiﬁ Farmhouse Producer Ardrahan Farmhouse Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Ardsallagh Goats Products . dense. Caerphilly taste. It was made on numerous to greatness is the quality of the raw materials. cheese becomes softer.Today. RIND The molds that grow on the rind of Caerphilly give it a mottled appearance. its were tough on the farming usual herbaceous sweetness is infused community. and production dwindled. which coincided with the campaign for traditional cheese by Patrick Rance. or a white wine from one Age 4 days to 4 months of the new Welsh vineyards. creamier. century. the method. Fortunately. yet what elevates mediocrity was a favorite of the Welsh miners.5kg). sometimes sneaks onto the traditional Welsh Caerphilly did surface of the cheese and not reappear until the 1980s. as it was ready ﬂavor means it can be used in to sell within a few weeks compared sweet or savory dishes. H. Serve with beer. Weight and Shape 91⁄2lb (4. some Somerset cheddar makers. and Westcombe Farm Dairy—which The cheese is very good melted still makes it in the traditional on toast or with crusty bread. a delicious fresh taste. made less and less until the artisanal egg. With age it it as cheese. with the advent of like a rustic béchamel sauce by the the railroad. WALES All over local cider. Caerphilly Castle in the historical town TASTING NOTES Caerphilly has GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND of Caerphilly. only Caws Cenarth and Caws Caerfai make farmhouse Caerphilly in the Welsh valleys. and sometimes. have for their art. subsequently. mustard for an interesting combination. seeing the economic HOW TO ENJOY advantages. but it is 216 to twelve months for cheddar. especially delicious with Welsh A few producers. Most are matured for a few months rather than a few days and are more likely to be found in top London restaurants than in a miner’s lunch box. 31⁄4 in (8cm) Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various . farmers were able to scent of crushed bracken moistened by sell their milk rather than preserve autumnal rains. wheel Size D. The years after the World War I when the grazing is at its best. 10in (25cm). such as Ducketts rabbit (also known as rarebit). Worcestershire sauce. while Ducketts and Trethowan make theirs in Somerset. and cheese revolution of the 1980s. After the more supple as it grows a Ministry of Food stopped all bluish-gray coat that production of Caerphilly until 1954. Caerphilly A CLOSER LOOK A simple cheese in appearance and The only traditional cheese associated with Wales. indicates it is alive and well. at the turn of the 20th you just need to scrape it off. and. decided to turn their Caerphilly’s mild. and small-scale farms in Glamorgan and Monmouth between the above all the passion the makers early 1800s and 1914. way—continued after the war but but it can be mixed with beer. lemony fresh hands to Caerphilly. before being sold. they are soaked in a brine bath. All of this is done by hand. paler. As they are drawn slowly for 20–30 minutes. through the milk. Cheeses that are allowed to mature for 3–4 months develop a magniﬁcent MATURING The following day. this is traditionally determined when an imprint of a hand remains on the pressed curd. separated by metal trays. The molds are stacked three to four high under the press. almost white marbling throughout. WA L E S 217 Interior The interior is a yellow-white color like a magnolia. and put in a cold roomm where they remain for 4–7 days more complex ﬂavor. thick gray coat and a dried off. DRAINING THE WHEY The curd is stirred by hand in the whey until the desired acidity is reached. and then CUTTING THE CURD The curd is cut pressure is applied. The whey is then drained and the curd cut again and piled into molds lined with cheesecloth. . with ﬁne. long enough to reach the molds remain in the press bottom of the vat. they cut the curd in three ways. producing very soft and ﬂoppy 1⁄2in (1cm) cubes. The using special knives. wheel Weight and Shape 8lb 13oz–19lb 13oz Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1. silky-textured gentle when young. 3in (7. with pears or pomegranate seeds and HOW TO ENJOY As a cheese board cheese. and local Friesian herd. Louth IRELAND Castlegregory. wheel Size D. H. family at Beechmount Farm. or added to a Alsace Riesling and some quince paste. made from raw milk from Glyde Farm’s some of Ireland’s most unusual raw Cashel Blue is made by the Grubb closed herd of Friesians by dedicated milk cheeses at Dingle Peninsula Dairy. smooth celery soup. IRELAND Castlebellingham. mellow. and in salads sweet Sémillon or Saint-Émilion wine. Superb melted over steak. The milk is naturally salty. toasted nuts. sea-salt ﬂavor work well with a glass of Barolo or to the fudgey. temperature with a ripe pear and a great for soufﬂés. Flavored mold and a natural rind. creamy blue with green-blue marbling rich. divinely creamy ﬂavor of HOW TO ENJOY For maximum ﬂavor. with milk GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND cheesemaker Peter Thomas. Kerry IRELAND Fethard. since the from the farm’s own pedigree British cows graze close to the sea. HOW TO ENJOY Extra-mature cheeses seaweed adds a natural. 8in (20cm). with a gentle buzz TASTING NOTES The crusty rind of from the mold veining. drum Size D. it is mild and and seaweed-ﬂecked cheeses are TASTING NOTESThis soft. has a medium ﬂavor. spicy this cheese board cheese at room or for stufﬁng chicken breasts and aroma to the paste. the rind. Tipperary Age 6–14 months Age 6–12 months Age 9–35 weeks Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb (3kg).5cm) (4–9kg). and there’s the warm.5 kg). it is German born Maja Binder produces One of Ireland’s best-loved blues. 31⁄2in (9cm) 218 Milk Cow Size Various Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Blue Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Blue Producer Glyde Farm Classiﬁcation Hard Producer J & L Grubb Producer Dingle Peninsula Cheese Dairy . 5in (13cm). pasta. peppery tang with age. TASTING NOTES Moist with blue-green seaweed is used for ﬂavoring. serve Sauternes. Great melted onto grilled steak. H. Bellingham Blue Beenoskee Cashel Blue One of Ireland’s best blue cheeses. this needs nothing more than a glass of crumbled into salads. then develops a also produced. character to the mix. Enjoy it with a full-bodied red wine or would work well. TASTING NOTES Raw-milk Cooleeney is rich with herbs. It is fruity and mild when young. gentle—a light red Valpolicella can be used in sauces or soufﬂés. 219 H. and good acidity. warming Tawny Port. 1in (2. cylinder Size D. of mushrooms and herbs. It also grates well and well. sweet milk. map. with aromas holes. 10in (25cm) and 14in (35cm). nutty caramel ﬂavor. hard. Ireland’s answer to Silke Cropp’s Corleggy cheese many awards since it ﬁrst came into Camembert.7kg). and is good in omelets or salads. IRELAND Fermoy. Cork IRELAND Moyne. IRELAND spiciness as it ages. Tipperary IRELAND Belturbet. pale-gold cheese has a handful of small sensuously rich in texture. 4in (10cm) H.5kg) and 20lb Weight and Shape 7oz (200g) and Weight and Shape 14oz (400g) and 21⁄4lb (9kg). a full buttery TASTING NOTES Corleggy has notes but intensiﬁes to a rich. 4in (10cm) and 6in (16cm). Sinead. Size D.Coolea Cooleeney Corleggy This Gouda-style cheese has received Cooleeney. from County Cavan was born out of production in 1980. a farmhouse cheese revolution that second-generation cheesemaker Dicky where lush grazing pastures provide helped put Ireland on the culinary Willems and his wife. 3in (8cm) and 91⁄2in (24cm). Cavan Age 2–24 months Age 8–14 weeks Age 2–4 months Weight and Shape 10lb (4. Size D.5cm) and 2in (4.5cm) H. boulder 3lb 12oz (1. rich. 5in (12cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Goat Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Soft-white Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Coolea Farmhouse Cheese Producer Cooleeney Cheese Producer Corleggy Cheeses . It is now made by generation farming family in Tipperary. The wine needs to be plums or ﬁgs. Rich milk from Its natural rind is brine-washed hilly grazing adds an herbaceous HOW TO ENJOY It should be left out and ﬂavorful. to soften before eating. of lush sweet grass and wild herbs. round (1kg). and is best accompanied with a crusty baguette HOW TO ENJOY This cheese is perfect with HOW TO ENJOY Coolea grates and melts and grapes. is handmade by a fourth. Goats and cows dine out on nearby drumlin pastures that are TASTING NOTES This smooth. H. in a smooth fondue or sauce. creamy.5kg).4kg). or classic modern Irish recipe. piquancy and peppery punch. IRELAND Fethard. was developed in 1993. Dunmanus Bay. One of the original “big four” west Cork David and Mairead Tiernan ﬁrst made Crozier Blue. 231⁄2–26in (60–66cm). wheels 220 Milk Ewe Size D. H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 4–61⁄2in (10–17cm). creamy. Crozier Blue Durrus Glebe Brethan Ireland’s ﬁrst ewe’s milk blue cheese. 4in (10cm) round (40–45kg). served as a ﬁrst course with ripe pears. a zesty tang. Tipperary IRELAND Durrus. Jeffa Gill this wonderful hard. and sensuously intermittent holes is fruity and creamy. and rind cheese is speckled with tiny holes. Thirty years later. Weight and Shape 88lb 3oz–99lb 3oz Size D. dinner with Sancerre or Merlot. tartlets with caramelized onions or added to risotto. It is also good in on blue-cheese pizza. HOW TO ENJOY Durrus is superb after HOW TO ENJOY This versatile cheese or after dinner. with a glass of late. their herd of Montbéliarde cows. Its strengths have been GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND in taste to Roquefort (see pp82–83). smooth and golden yellow cheese with subtly crumbly cheese a steely dry It is smooth. and a and warm fruity notes that become gentle aromatic buzz. drum Weight and Shape 9oz–3lb (250g–1. H. in a quiche. this limestone to give the soft. is a an Alsace Pinot Gris. cheeses. Louth Age 10–35 weeks Age 3–8 weeks Age 6–24 months Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1. can be enjoyed as it comes with just bottled vintage Port or Tokaji. a type of fondue. nuttiness. walnuts. textured. with sublime grassy ﬂavors Aging adds spice. ﬁnished with HOW TO ENJOY Crozier Blue can be nuttier and richer with age. 4in Milk Cow (10cm) Classiﬁcation Blue Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Cow Producer J & L Grubb Producer Durrus Cheese Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Glebe Brethan Farmhouse . TASTING NOTES The Crozier ﬂock of British Friesland ewes grazes on TASTING NOTES This orange-hued washed TASTING NOTES When young. and delicate salad leaves. Use it Durrus Melt. it is similar still makes her washed-rind cheese in in 2004. using time-honored attributed to the excellent milk from methods and raw milk. Cork IRELAND Dunleer. 5in (13cm). creamy cheese The sister to Cashel Blue. glass jar Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–9lb 15oz Weight and Shape 11lb (5 kg). which started in 1990 TASTING NOTES It has a very fresh. compact pale ivory interior with savory HOW TO ENJOY Eat on crusty bread. notes from the sunﬂower oil. covered with with milk from the farm’s herd of cows’ and goats’ milk from a recipe she sunﬂower oil. H 4in (10cm). with tiny holes. Westmeath IRELAND Schull. Cork IRELAND County Galway Age A few days Age 12–16 weeks Age 8–12 weeks Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (150g). it grills superbly but is best served salmon pâté.5kg). H. and it makes an excellent with a handful of other Irish cheeses luxurious cheesecake. soft. world famous. It’s good for baked potatoes. IRELAND Ladestown. Smoked Gubbeen with fruitcake. TASTING NOTES Winner of Best Goat 2014 olives. round Size No size (500g–4. estimate Milk Cow Size D. and ﬂavored with various Friesian and Kerry cows. which has goats’ milk comes from partner Haske’s been named Gubbeenensis. It has gentle herb and ﬂoral notes with and Best Irish Cheese 2012. 5–12in (12cm–30cm). notes reminiscent of Marmite and a crackers. Gubbeen cheeses in the range are ﬂavored with is smooth and creamy. The orange learned while working in Holland. it has a IRELAND a meaty ﬁnish. and a glass of Guinness. round Size D 9in (24cm). or pepper. with cheeses packed in jars. as an After dinner. sticky bacteria on the rind.Grace Gubbeen Killeen Goat Grace is one of a range of organic fresh Gubbeen is a farmhouse cheese made Marion Roeleveld makes Killeen. with ten goat kids and now has 200 creamy taste with herbaceous grassy animals to meet demand for the milk. or sandwiches with peppery HOW TO ENJOY Match Extra Mature nutty almond ﬁnish. nettles. is now wonderful herd. instant dip. chives. it is superb with Chianti HOW TO ENJOY Supple like young Gouda. or as a base for smoked or Bordeaux. The herbs and spices. salad leaves and tomatoes. 2–4in Milk Goat 221 (5–10cm) Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Hard Milk Cow Producer Moonshine Dairy Farm Producer Killeen Farmhouse Cheese Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Gubbeen Cheese . The other TASTING NOTES Washed in brine. 3in (8cm) wheel (1. term for something cherished. but becomes more herbaceous. crumbly with a hint of spice with age. Kilkenny IRELAND Stoneyford. Lavistown (see p222). H. 31⁄2in (9cm) Size 4in (10cm) and 9in (23cm). HOW TO ENJOY Serve with good bread. IRELAND Stoneyford. Milk Cow H. was created in 1976 awards for her goat’s and ewe’s milk Lavistown House by Olivia Goodwillie. Milleens. such as broccoli baking Christmas mince pies. and pink molds. 9in (23cm).5kg). HOW TO ENJOY On the cheese board or a HOW TO ENJOY Pair it with wedges of preferably Irish soda. by Veronica Steele. Weight and Shape 9oz (250g) and 23⁄4lb Size D. A soft gray. Kilkenny IRELAND Eyeries. It adds Barolo or Claret. and more recently for her cow’s It is now made by Helen Finnegan the smallest Milleens a “dote”—an Irish milk cheese. round 222 Milk Goat Size D. 1in (2. with an orange-pink hue and inviting with organic white wine. with full woodland aromas. it is best served dessert apple and a glass of ale. leathery.25kg).5cm) and 11⁄2in (4cm) Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Hard Milk Cow Producer Knockdrinna Farmhouse Cheese Producer Knockdrinna Farmhouse Cheese Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Milleens Cheese . Cork Age 2 months Age 3 weeks–70 days Age 2–3 months Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb (3 kg). placed underneath the mincemeat before into vegetable soups. The ﬂavor is mushroomy and creamy goat’s cheese and semi-soft fresh when young. soft texture that becomes unctuously golden color and citrusy notes. H. It is something special to apple pie or can be at the last minute to risotto or melted ideal baked in a goat cheese tart. ewe’s milk cheese are also produced. Lavistown was ﬁrst made at cheese. Milleens can be added with a grassy Sauvignon Blanc. lending a rich pale-cream rind dusted with white. or cauliﬂower. It is tangy and runny. 9in (23cm). at Knockdrinna. TASTING NOTES It is a washed-rind cheese creamy and nutty. round Weight and Shape 7lb 11oz (3. It is rind-washed style cheese has a thin. Knockdrinna Gold Lavistown Milleens Helen Finnegan only started making More than a quarter of a century Ireland’s ﬁrst farmhouse artisan cheese in 2004. Veronica nicknamed GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND cheeses. TASTING NOTES Knockdrinna Gold is TASTING NOTES This low-fat Caerphilly. and a glass of mixed cheese platter. but she has already won ago. Gall St. or HOW TO ENJOY Mossﬁeld is great for the HOW TO ENJOY This needs no adornment. 4in (10cm) Size D. pink and a silky texture with a subtle bodied and crumbly as it ages. spicy acidity to ﬁnish. Frank and Gudrun St. The ﬂavored cooking. Cork. and small holes log has a pale. TASTING NOTES This Gouda-style cheese TASTING NOTES It has a naturally hard TASTING NOTES This classic chèvre-style has a moist. where the farm’s Shinnick have developed a superb organic goat’s milk from the Burren Friesian and Rotbunt herd is kept on a range of farmhouse cheeses. cheese is from Offaly. Tola is made from fresh. almost cookie-ish. 3in (8cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Goat 223 Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Producer Mossﬁeld Organic Cheese Producer Fermoy Natural Cheeses Producer Inagh Farmhouse Cheese . Clare Age 3–9 months Age 3–6 months Age 3–5 weeks Weight and Shape 11lb (5kg). just a glass of decent red wine. rarebit. 4in (10cm) Size L. supple consistency and rind. H. IRELAND available with tomato and herbs. including region of Clare. 12in (30cm). Cork IRELAND Burren. adding subtle this hard cheese made with raw of goats’ milk cheese.They make a wide range variety of grazing. and enjoy with a Sauternes. organic farmhouse In Fermoy. goaty ﬂavor and crisp ﬁnish. notes and a garlic and basil. punctuating the creamy consistency. 81⁄2in (21cm). with slices of pear and a white cheese board. IRELAND Clareen. It is also Sweet milky ﬂavors are rounded with nutty.Mossﬁeld Organic St. mixed with chopped green with honey. Offaly IRELAND Fermoy. Crumble it into salads or or in tarts and quiches. it melts well for Welsh serve on warm toasted brioche drizzled alternatives add zest to baked potatoes. D. In Bordeaux. onions or tomatoes. Tola Log This award-winning. a rich gold color. 111⁄2in (29cm). fresh. cow’s milk. log Size D. sweet. wrinkly rind tinged with elegant mellow notes. round Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg). including award- nuances to the milk. and toasty. H. wheels Weight and Shape 11lb (5kg). becoming full. with a glass of claret. HOW TO ENJOY Serve it melted or fresh with sourdough bread and grapes. winning Crottin and a hard cheese. but in the Middle Ages. Geitenkaas Met Kruiden. Maasdam. but it was the OVERIJSSEL Romans who introduced hard cheeses. From the Middle Ages. or PDO cheeses Vieux Chimay Produced only here LUXEMBOURG Produced throughout the region DIEKIRCH LUXEMBOURG GREVEN- 50 miles MACHER LUXEMBOURG 50 km . Kernhem. with an increasing number of goat’s milk cheeses. The new era is characterized by ﬂavor and diversiﬁcation. and cloves) into their cheeses.LOW COUNTRIES GRONINGEN BELGIUM Belgium has a long tradition of dairy farming WADDENZEE and small-farm cheese production. DOC. THE NETHERLANDS ZUID. caraway. and many traditional recipes were revived. FRIESLAND Subsequently. ★ AOC. Cheesemakers were quick to incorporate newly discovered exotic spices (such as UTRECHT cumin. Gouda. Leidse Kaas. trading in silks and spices overshadowed cheesemaking. Pas de Rouge LIMBURG WEST VLAANDEREN OOST-VLAANDEREN LIMBURG Rubens VLAAMS BRABANT Keiems Bloempje BRUSSEL N Passendale BELGIUM Hervé ★ BRABANT WALLON LIÈGE HAINAUT NAMUR Key Chimay à la Bière. They also engineered the dikes FLEVOLAND and canals that created the huge meadows underpinning the Dutch dairy industry. Dutch cheese was traded in GELDERLAND domestic and foreign markets. However. the 1960s saw a DRENTHE return of the artisan cheesemakers. PGI. NOORD- HOLLAND THE NETHERLANDS Cheese has been made in the Netherlands since prehistoric times.HOLLAND PRODUCED THROUGHOUT THE COUNTRY Edam. Nagelkaas ZEELAND NOORD-BRABANT NORTH SEA ANTWERPEN Postel Bio Bleu. DOP. milk and cream were more often used for making butter and chocolate. which would become Gouda and Edam. W. raw milk by In 1850. interior has a mass of well-spread blue streaks. cheese. Herve Remoudou is richer TASTING NOTES The pale yellow. It has an intense steely blue TASTING NOTES The ﬁrm. 21⁄2in (6cm). D. 4in (10cm). 71⁄2in (19cm) Size L. long-lasting and very peppery. wheel Weight and Shape 7oz (200g). and stronger. Pair with sweet white wines. drum Size H. blue. becomes sticky and covered in orange- Today. creamy 250 producers in the region. Liège Age 8–10 weeks Age 4 weeks Age 3 months minimum Weight and Shape 13⁄4lb–23/4lb Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg). this is similar to Limburger (hinkelspel means “hopscotch” in established a herd of Friesian cows (see p234) and named after the town English). Trappist where it is made. Its slightly sticky rind is to make butter and. cheeses such as this one. BELGIUM Oost-Vlaanderen BELGIUM Chimay. spicy. Washed repeatedly red-brown and covered in gray. accompanied bread and wash it down with Belgian- by a Belgian beer. washed in Chimay Trappist beer. which is in brine over three months. the rind and some white molds. leathery rind Its pale yellow interior is BELGIUM TASTING NOTES tang. The ﬂavor ranges with an acidic bite and spicy overtones. the milk used comes from brown mold. and anything but mellow. HOW TO ENJOY Delicious with fall fruit toasted hops continuing on the ﬁnish. a group of Cistercian monks Probably the most famous of Belgium’s the Hinkelspel dairy cooperative started building Scourmont Abbey and cheeses. brick (800g–1kg). Hainaut BELGIUM Herve. 21⁄2in (6cm). supple from surprisingly sweet and mellow to interior is fruity. 2in (5cm) 225 Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Blue Producer Chimay Fromage Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Coöperatieve Het Hinkelspel Producer Hervé Société . with a distinct taste of strong. or in a salad with chicory and HOW TO ENJOY This is a superb melting strong companion. H. barnyard. such as sweet grapes and Comice HOW TO ENJOY Its pungency demands a pears. Size D. BELGIUM Bio or Pas de Bleu Chimay à la Bière Herve PDO Made with organic. has a heady aroma of hops and springy and creamy. so enjoy it with dark nuts. or serve it simply. style Trappist beer or ale. 21⁄2in (6cm). later. while the creamy. 4in (10cm) Milk Cow H. ideally from Chimay. overtones of hazelnut. with a meaty with age. TASTING NOTES Firm. 3in (7cm) 226 Size D. or a typically Belgian Trappist beer. West Viaanderen Age 4–8 weeks Age 6–8 weeks Age 3–6 months Weight and Shape 12oz (350g) or 151⁄2lb Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb (2. becoming more mellow with a mushroom and green grass ﬁnish. H. A a loaf of bread. 11⁄2in (4cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Soft white Producer Coöperatieve Het Hinkelspel Producer Bongrain Producer Het Dischhof . resembles formed by the intricate system of dikes playground game of hopscotch. H. Chardonnay or a light beer. 41⁄4in (11cm). it is caramel brown rind lightly dusted is Walloon for “ﬂower” and refers to the made with organic raw cow’s milk and with white mold. with TASTING NOTES Made from raw organic TASTING NOTES Supple and buttery. BELGIUM Diksmuide.5kg). a region of lush meadows hop in Belgium’s version of the old on an old monastic recipe. yet pliable. and fresh milky taste has a lightly barnyardy aroma and buttery taste. round Size D. H. Pas de Rouge pale yellow creamy interior that has a mushroom aroma. creamy texture. taste as it comes of age. LOW COUNTRIES with herbs and garlic. with its distinctive and canals. 23⁄4in (7cm) Size D. 83⁄4in (22cm). and coffee ham and smoked meats and sausages. based Diksmuide. butter. mold as it matures. West Viaanderen BELGIUM Gent. or polders. while “Bloempje” washed-rind Trappist-style cheese. It is named after the Penicillium candidum bloom that coats has a red-orange leathery rind that village made infamous by the World the cheese. complement with with brown bread. 6in (15cm). with very small and irregular holes in a milk. round (7kg). Serve with light beer or white wine. it has a thick. Keiems Bloempje Pas de Rouge Passendale “Keiems” refers to a part of the city of The name Pas de Rouge refers to a This popular Flemish cheese. small. HOW TO ENJOY Try it grilled on bread or HOW TO ENJOY A stalwart of the spread on crispbreads with a sweet HOW TO ENJOY Eat it like the locals: continental breakfast buffet with cold homemade chutney. Oost Viaanderen BELGIUM Passendale. scattered holes. Some types are ﬂavored develops a white mist of Penicillium War I Battle of Passendale. round Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb (3kg). 63⁄4in (17cm). as a snack. melt-in-the-mouth texture. with a glass of Chimay Tripel beer. or as a topping Try it with slices of fresh apple. Size D. Antwerpen BELGIUM West Viaanderen BELGIUM Chimay. Vieux Chimay has a BELGIUM a nutty-ﬂavored cheese. BELGIUM Mol. The ﬂavor is buttery with a hint of becoming more intense with age. Hainaut Age 12–24 months Age 8–12 weeks Age 6 months Weight and Shape 9lb (4kg). 41⁄4in (11cm) Milk Cow Size D. this makes it an attractive those in the know. With its Needless to say. TASTING NOTES Beneath the reddish- TASTING NOTES Hard and quite dry with brown protective rind lies a ﬁrm yet TASTING NOTES Although this cheese is a dark. this cheese is not made 1960s and is now one of the most ﬂattened ball shape and thin golden in high volumes. obviously. but is much loved by popular of all the Belgian cheeses. 103⁄4in (27cm). brown crust. W. with a subtle soft. serve with cider or a light red wine. Postel is supple paste with small holes.Postel Rubens Vieux Chimay An orange-rinded cheese handmade by This distinctive washed-rind cheese is Like Chimay à la Bière (see p225). 12in (30cm). loaf Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb (3kg). bitterness to the ﬁnish. H. HOW TO ENJOY Pair with a bottle of Postel Rubens melts and bakes well. and paired for baked potatoes. and melted into a lobster risotto. oval Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb (3kg). with hints a rich. earthy yellow color. 51⁄4in (13cm). of spices such as cloves and nutmeg. chewy. hazelnuts and a distinct but pleasant HOW TO ENJOY Like all semi-soft cheeses. addition to a cheese board. smooth ﬂavor. It has described as hard. this the monks at the Abbey of Postel using named in honor of the 17th-century is made at Scourmount Abbey. Annatto milk from their own herd of some 160 Flemish Baroque painter Peter Paul is added to the milk to give the ﬁnished cows and others from nearby farms. H. 41⁄2in (9cm) ﬂattened ball H. sweet-savory taste. and it is beer. Size L. This is a good cheese easy to slice for snacks or breakfast. Rubens. The recipe was revived in the cheese a warm tangerine color. 41⁄4in (11cm) 227 Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Bongrain Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Abbey of Postel Producer Chimay Fromage . HOW TO ENJOY The makers recommend it for grating. glass of white wine. paired with a cool beer. it has a and gooey. and made should make time to visit one of the place where. Edam is equally at home as a snack. and a at breakfast with chocolate and eggs. or served cheese board. Its distinctive red amazing cheese shops. in HOW TO ENJOY Great as a snack or on a HOW TO ENJOY This is a cheese that cries sandwiches. Less well known white lady or ghost is regularly seen. 4in (10cm) Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Goat Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Friesland Campina Classiﬁcation Flavor-added Producer Friesland Campina Producer Various . becoming more with ﬂecks of chopped nettles. with a pronounced barnyard ﬂavorsome and ﬁrmer with age. The majority is deﬁnitely worth trying. 4in (10cm) boulder Size D. buttery ﬂavor. creamy ﬂavor. a nutty. as they do in the Netherlands. grated. The name Kernhem is made with added cream exported. TASTING NOTES Beneath the thin rind it TASTING NOTES Supple like young Gouda. a with skim milk.” and has a sticky orange rind from LOW COUNTRIES frequent washings in brine. 2in (5cm) 228 Milk Cow Size D. 8in (20cm). this is named was shipped from the Port of Edam. counters the world over.5kg) ﬂat round Size D. 8in (20cm). when Edam Kruiden A modern Dutch cheese.THE NETHERLANDS Edam Geitenkaas Met Kernhem First mentioned in 1439. THE NETHERLANDS All over THE NETHERLANDS All over THE NETHERLANDS Gelderland Age 1–12 months Age 3–6 months Age 5–6 weeks Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg). Cheese lovers visiting Amsterdam after the Kernhem Estate. 4in (10cm). the Dutch preferring Gouda. according to legend. H. and a milk and a slight grassy. ball Weight and Shape 17lb 10oz (8kg). a mystical just north of Amsterdam. cold meats. out for tangy pickles. earthy ﬁnish. H. smooth texture and sweet its stark white interior is sprinkled TASTING NOTES Kernhem’s paste is soft milky. means “goat cheese with nettles. has a supple. waxed coat is a familiar sight on deli hard goat cheeses such as this are Unlike most other Dutch cheeses. subtle almond ﬂavor from the goat’s aroma. Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb (2. penetrating savory ﬁnish. melted. H. HOW TO ENJOY A simple cheese. expensive alternative to Emmental. compact. TASTING NOTES Very supple and elastic TASTING NOTES Despite being made from sunshine-yellow interior feels dry yet with large holes. Its sweet. H. with “spicy nails. and peppercorns Production continues to grow. 4in (10cm) Size D. or as cumin. ranging from beer to aromatic wines. nails. cloves is known as Kanterkaas. cloves. perfectly balanced fruit ﬂavor is a result of the special content. its town of origin. salads. with light fruity whites and rosé wines. Size D. creamy texture. it is its sweet. across the world. so they are called kruidnagels. and pair with beer. The cloves resemble studded with cumin seeds. 4in (10cm) 229 Classiﬁcation Flavor-added Milk Cow Milk Cow Producer Various Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Flavor-added Producer Various Producer Various . and hot dishes.Leidse Kaas AOC Maasdam Nagelkaas Named after Leiden. TASTING NOTES The dense. created in the Netherlands as a less Gouda in which fresh cloves and cumin the city’s emblem. boulder Weight and Shape 17lb 10oz (8kg). fruity taste. H. H. pronounced hot. 6–8in boulder Milk Cow (15–20cm) Size D. bacteria added to the milk. THE NETHERLANDS All over THE NETHERLANDS All over THE NETHERLANDS All over Age 2–12 months Age 4–12 weeks Age 4–12 months Weight and Shape 22lb (10kg). spicy aromatic taste and ﬁrm. and vegetable dishes. Spices such bulging upper side proved very popular. and and aged together. and fondue. 12in (30cm). Pair HOW TO ENJOY Use sparingly in salads salads. the cheese possesses a by the aromatic cumin. boulder Weight and Shape 22lb (10kg). fermenting skim milk with only a 23 percent fat creamy and mellow. large holes. it is a its rind is imprinted with crossed keys. but have been added to the fresh curd but made with reduced-fat milk. soups.” Its equivalent without THE NETHERLANDS Dutch explorers. This Swiss-style cheese was originally Originally made in Friesland. 12in (30cm). Similar to Gouda. It whole family as a snacking cheese or in also adds a pleasant spice-ﬁlled note to sandwiches. 12–151⁄2in (30–40cm).” and the cheese is known were introduced in the 1600s by early leading brand Leerdammer now sold as “nail cheese. and turns HOW TO ENJOY Excellent with all drinks HOW TO ENJOY A great choice for the a deep yellow with age. Boerenkaas Gouda 230 has a more outspoken taste that differs from farm to farm. from fruity to a hint of cocoa and groundnut. meant. About 60 percent of Dutch cheese production is Gouda. other European estimate their tax. or yellow rind. and granular. a remarkable the farmers brought their cheeses to landscape of dikes and windmills. and. metric tons of cheese. The fresco on the outside of the Gouda and in salads. becoming ﬁrmer and fruitier. can be seen in the existence of the farmhouse Gouda. you can countries (notably Sweden) have ﬁnd out your weight in cheese at the adopted this style of cheesemaking. sweet. has become deep yellow. Young Gouda has a distinctive polished Evidence of the cheeses’ importance The best are the Boerenkaas. taste of aged Gouda lends itself to the cheese board or hot dishes from The Netherlands All over gratins to tarts and pasta alongside Age 4 weeks–3 years a good Dutch beer or robust red like Weight and Shape 7oz–44lb Pinot Noir or Barolo. and slightly months old. weekly markets in summer in Gouda. round Size Various Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various . and New Zealand have Edam (see p230) from other cheeses started making farmhouse versions Young cheese is that some of the whey is replaced that meticulously retain the old LOW COUNTRIES with hot water in the vat once the methods—although regulations curd has been cut. as washing the curd. immigrants in North America. Gouda A CLOSER LOOK The Netherlands produces 730. more mellow. be weighed and quality-checked to Over the centuries. especially Gouda. Built in 1668. hard. their popularity had spread across Europe. while the feel in the mouth is rich and smooth. while the stronger weigh-house. with its small holes. the interior. such as the weather permits the cattle to stay beautifully restored example in outside and graze the fresh grasses Gouda. historically. of which and the geographical position of Holland on the west coast of Europe 550. producing a TASTING NOTES At only a few sweeter. by 18 months. in the last century. that the cheeses could be shipped to France and farther aﬁeld. and Edam. it was where of the polders. almost brittle. Each bite reveals more of its complex character. fruity taste.000 is exported. made with raw weigh-houses and formal markets milk by small farmers when the in virtually every town. HOW TO ENJOY Young Gouda is ideal for sandwiches. Dutch Alkmaar.000 The long-keeping properties of the Dutch cheeses. a process known prevent most from using raw milk. This removes lactose from the curd. (200g–20kg). By the 12th century. Today. snacks. Gouda is supple with a more elastic curd. What differentiates Gouda and Australia. they later became an essential item on the explorer’s shopping list when they took to the seas. Aged Gouda. sunshine yellow. The Dutch and again some of the whey. separated by boards. which is stirred in. and lightly pressed for a few hours or even days. and cloves. VERTICAL PRESS The cheeses are removed from their molds and stacked in vertical presses. is were quick to utilize these new and aromatic drained off and replaced with more water.WASHING THE CURD In order to wash ADDING FLAVOR The founding of the the curd. the exterior becomes minimum of 18 months. has a hard. aged for a With age. dry. now diluted. curd. Mature cheese 231 . some of the whey is drained off and Dutch East Indies Company in the 17th replaced with warm water. peppercorns. The ﬂavors in their cheeses—particularly cumin. water removes lactose (milk sugar) from the caraway. century opened up the spice trade. it scalds the curd and expels additional moisture. and a deep THE NETHERLANDS black waxed rind. When the water is hot. The result is to keep the acidity of the curd at a lower level than would normally be the case since the activity of the lactic bacteria is reduced. famous throughout the world. Harzer Käse SWITZERLAND The great cheeses WESTFALEN of Switzerland. the heart of German cheesemaking. In the east. AUSTRIA. making it one of Germany’s most important milk and cheese regions. draws its inspiration from the Swiss with its famous Allgäuer SWITZERLAND Emmental. The SACHSEN ﬁrst reference to cheesemaking was THÜRINGEN Altenburger made in 33 BCE. SACHSEN-ANHALT NORDRHEIN. Vacherin Mont d’Or ★ Sbrinz ★ Bavaria Blu Appenzeller Tomme Vaudoise. to the primary objective of the Swiss Limburger. cheesemaking was inﬂuenced by the Swiss. An abundant supply of high- quality milk allows Bayern to produce 75 percent of Germany’s cheeses. such VORPOMMERN as Altenburger Ziegenkäse. Tomme Vaudoise Hobelkäse Chorherrenkäse. which was introduced to the area in 1821. Although many cheeses are produced in Bayern. as seen HOLSTEIN in the Netherlands and Denmark or Schichtkäse with Trappist cheeses. DOP. ★ AOC. N Bayern (Bavaria). In the northern regions of Germany. BAYERN most Swiss cheeses are still made in SAARLAND Allgäuer Bergkäse. when the Rhaetians Altenburger Ziegenkäse ★ made “cheese” for the long. GERMANY In the Alpine regions of GERMANY. GERMANY AUSTRIA Since the climate and pastures NIEDERSACHSEN PRODUCED THROUGHOUT THE in western Austria (Vorarlberg and Tirol) Harzer Käse COUNTRY are similar to those in Switzerland. are produced in the northern parts of Germany. LIECHTENSTEIN Produced throughout the region Mutschli. HESSEN Records show that by the Middle Ages. PGI. and before them. RHEINLAND. This is due Allgäuer Emmental ★. or PDO cheeses PRODUCED THROUGHOUT THE COUNTRY Tiroler Graukäse ★ Produced only here Emmentaler. traditional cheeses are often fresh or SCHLESWIG. Ziegenkäse ★. DOC. Vacherin Fribourgeois ★ Appenzeller Bachensteiner Bio Paulus Gruyère ★ Vorarlberger Bergkäse ★ AUSTRIA Sbrinz ★ Tiroler Graukäse ★. BADEN- WÜRTTEMBERG Tête de Moine ★. the inﬂuence came from the Balkans. despite much of the production moving to large factories. can trace their history back to before the coming of the Romans. lactic-acidiﬁed milk products. some MECKLENBURG- of Germany’s more famous cheeses. Allgäu. it Tilsiterkäse is no wonder that the border-sharing BRANDENBURG cheesemakers have been swapping recipes for centuries. which is why fresh-style cheeses are more prevalent. hard winter. Harzer Käse Swiss cheeses were being traded across PFALZ much of Europe. In modern times. Valle Maggia 100 miles Raclette Hobelkäse 100 km . Weinkäse Tiroler Graukäse ★ SWITZERLAND Sbrinz ★ Key Schabziger Chorherrenkäse. small dairies or cooperatives. AND the Romans. agricultural policy—maintaining the Weisslacker landscape that characterizes Switzerland. D. or spring meadows rich in alpine ﬂowers. Enjoy with a bread slices. GERMANY Bayern GERMANY Bayern GERMANY Sachsen and Thüringia Age 3–6 months Age 3–6 months Age 4 weeks Weight and Shape 55lb 2oz (25kg). smaller holes and made in alpine huts ripens more quickly. 4in (10cm) wheel (300–500g). wheel Weight and Shape 176lb 6oz (80kg). GERMANY Allgäuer Bergkäse Allgäuer Emmentaler Altenburger PDO PDO Ziegenkäse PDO Allgäu is known for its Swiss-style Allgäu cheeses use milk from the Sachsen and Thüringia in eastern cheeses. three months old. 4in (10cm) 233 Milk Cow (pictured) Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Hard Milk Goat with some cow Producer Various Producer Various Classiﬁcation Soft white Producer Altenburger Land . an afternoon meal cheese plates. and cooking. is like a little This is based on the Swiss Emmental German reuniﬁcation. Swiss cheesemakers. during late spring and summer. H. round Milk Cow Size D. and mild. 20in (50cm). becoming golden yellow. HOW TO ENJOY Perfect for cheese boards. but TASTING NOTESMost is sold at around pure white in color. In Germany. introduced in 1841 by two brown Allgäu cattle that graze in Germany were home to this cheese. but is smaller and available all over the country. when it is supple. or drizzled with sweet mustard bacon. or beer. snacks. with a hint ﬂavor and a goaty ﬁnish that is not too more intense and slightly salty. 8in (20cm). TASTING NOTES Soft and creamy. and dark bread. buttery taste. liqueur or a light white wine. thin slices are laid on or between white salads. Weight and Shape 10oz–1lb 2oz Size D. 431⁄2in (110cm) Size Various. The interior is punctuated with caraway seeds. of hazelnut. accompanied with sausage slices. to bring out the ﬂavor. cheese. H. typical of goat GERMANY TASTING NOTES Dense with small holes. Bavarian Brotzeit. pronounced. Very little of it was produced until mountain cheese. coffee. H. It has a very pleasant. 351⁄2in (90cm). Bergkäse. Typically served with tea. but it is now Emmental (see pp242–243) with (see pp242–243). HOW TO ENJOY This is perfect for a HOW TO ENJOY For breakfast. mild it has a sweet. Enjoy it with a ﬁne Bavarian beer. Best known are Harzer.5kg). round Weight and Shape 5oz (150g). GERMANY Allgäu. or with vinaigrette and slices of cheese boards with a white Rhine wine music. Bavaria Blu Harzer Käse Limburger With a thick white coat and made with This has been made for centuries from This washed-rind cheese was originally extra cream. in Germany.5cm) Milk Cow Size Various. since 1830. H. D. Age 6–12 weeks and Thüringen) Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1. 11⁄2in (4cm). A U S T R I A . it is called “hand cheese with butter. When fresh. cider. mostly in the Allgäu from the excellent the 1970s. blue ﬁnish. with boiled potatoes and HOW TO ENJOY Served on most German and onion. creamy taste and subtle spicy paste is lemony sharp. HOW TO ENJOY Served for Brotzeit. afternoon tea. H. Bavaria Blu is a fusion of soured skim milk on small farms made in Belgium’s Limbourg region.” With dark German bread and onion. it has a separated for eating. W. but at about milder. it is a satisfying afternoon meal. such as Riesling. the bacteria. 3⁄4in (2cm) Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Blue (pictured) Producer Käserei Champignon Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Cow Producer Various Classiﬁcation Fresh Producer Various . log (3. Sachsen-Anhalt. It G E R M A N Y. brick Age 2–4 weeks Size D. but still farmyardy and meaty. TASTING NOTES Its sticky orange-brown TASTING NOTESSeveral of these “coins” rind and intense barnyardy smell TASTING NOTES Considerably milder than are assembled into a roll. Bavaria Blu is often referred Olmützer Quargel (pictured). Bayern GERMANY Harz mountain range GERMANY Bayern (Bavaria) Age 4–6 weeks (Niedersachsen. 2in (5cm). to be comes from being washed in special Gorgonzola or Camembert. and beer or cider. dark bread. The taste is signiﬁcantly very rich. a technique developed in Germany in than cheese. HOW TO ENJOY Mixed with vinegar. became so popular that. butter was always more important majority of it has been made in Germany. 5in (12cm). the mold is injected into the young cheese. the interior make it very appealing. H. and a nutty bread. 12in (30cm). to as the blue cheese for people who Handkäse. don’t like blue cheese. salt. local milk. 1in 234 Weight and Shape 3 ⁄2oz (100g). S W I T Z E R L A N D Camembert and Gorgonzola. The blue splotches through three weeks it becomes mellower. The blue throughout the country. and Mainzer. 3in (7cm) 1 Size L. it is crumbly and has a surprisingly middle layer of the cheese looks more and sliceable. now Invented in 1874. with extremely well with this brew. and a lot of onions. Sylvaner. brick Size Various (15cm (pictured)) Size L. and snacks along with meal best washed down with perfectly with tea or coffee. a lot of beer. This cheese is curd—the top and bottom layers from can be waxed or made with added also known as Bayerische Bierkäse skim milk. (Bavarian beer cheese). vinaigrette. It is made of layers of their famous Gouda. GERMANY vaguely aromatic and tart. beer. herbs. place of yogurt. It also goes sandwiches. 4–5in (10–12cm). W. with a TASTING NOTES After two days in brine. 6in (500g–1kg). texture similar to cottage cheese. it is pea-sized holes. 4–5in 235 Milk Cow Milk Cow (10–12cm). packets or pots Size L. or caraway seeds. pepper. it was apparently “white lacquer. The TASTING NOTES Butter-yellow. 12in (30cm). glassy white rind.” and it is so named made in northern parts of Germany. Also used in Maultaschen. 21⁄2–4in (6–10cm) Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Cow Producer Various Producer Various Classiﬁcation Fresh Producer Various . cream. without rennet.Schichtkäse or Tilsiterkäse Weisslacker Handkäse Named after the town of Tilsit. it It is not unlike feta. TASTING NOTES An acquired taste. H. 6in (15cm). yellow because it is higher in fat. This is a hearty dark bread as a snack. with a salty bite. created by Dutch immigrants in the because of its shiny. it is a lactic cheese. W. Riesling. HOW TO ENJOY Cut into chunks and HOW TO ENJOY Suitable for breakfast in serve with soft pretzels. trying to recreate the result of being soaked in brine. Weisslacker means A very old recipe using skim milk. H. it ranges in ﬂavor from mild and sweet-savory to strong and meaty. strong smell and tang. Sowjetsk in Russia. Spread on a slice of HOW TO ENJOY Ideal for breakfast. as it goes Swiss Tilsit is round and ﬁrmer. GERMANY Schleswig-Holstein GERMANY All over GERMANY Bayern Age A few days Age 12–18 weeks Age 3–6 weeks Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz–1lb 2oz Weight and Shape 81⁄2lb (4kg). with many uneven slits. brick Weight and Shape lb 2oz–21⁄4lb (100–500g). or a fruity red. springy. which curdles mid-19th century. the middle from whole milk. Brick-shaped. brick Weight and Shape 13⁄4lb (800g). Trappist cheese. pale red-orange rind and smooth. deep creamy interior with tiny holes. breakfast with bread for an afternoon snack. HOW TO ENJOY Great with hoppy Austrian HOW TO ENJOY A pleasant. milky or lactic aroma. and based on monastery goat. Noir. 5. 7in (18cm) Size D. TASTING NOTES Supple with small holes. or buffet. a variety of grasses and herbs in the made in Tirol. H. where it is still made by the majestic mountains. and since 1999 meadows. Pair with crusty dark bread and mountain table. was combined with sweet buttermilk. 31⁄2in (9cm). it has a has a sticky pink-orange rind and a rich. the monastery of Schlierbach in Upper an altitude of 3. and sheep cheeses. meaty. full-bodied taste and aroma is barnyardy. 2in (4. Friar Leonhard brought the of Sibratsgfäll. or a full-bodied white wine.AUSTRIA Bachensteiner Chorherrenkäse Bio Paulus The small mountain village cooperative Bearing the imprint of a wide cross. In 1924. The it has a smooth texture and a pleasant yellow interior with a spicy.5in (14cm).000ft. TASTING NOTES Hand-washed in brine. beer or local Grüner Veltliner wine. producing rich. 10in (25cm). Cows here graze in other countries. A U S T R I A . nestled between and is sometimes known as Amadeus Austria. undemanding HOW TO ENJOY Great on a cheese board beer or an aromatic white wine.5cm) Size D. it TASTING NOTES Brine-washed. It was originally monks. where fresh milk they are all organic. S W I T Z E R L A N D on the edge of the Bregenz Forest at giving it a distinctive appearance. round Size L. sits this cheese is dipped in white wax. recipe for this Trappist-style cheese to G E R M A N Y. 21⁄2in (6cm) 236 Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Sibratsgfälle Cooperative Producer Bergland Voitsberg Producer Stift Schlierbach . hint of herbs and meadow ﬂowers. or Pinot ham or with sliced pickled onions. Merlot. sweet milk. H. founded in 1907. They now make a range of cow. Its taste has a taste and a farmyardy aroma typical of with a sweet spicy ﬁnish. AUSTRIA Vorarlberg AUSTRIA Tirol AUSTRIA Salzburg Age 2–4 weeks Age 4–6 weeks Age 3–6 weeks Weight and Shape 7oz (210g). loaf Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (100g). Pair with Trappist-style with a red Zinfandel. Serve cheese for the cheese board. or Trappist cheeses. H. Today it is made in nearby Enns rich. H. Pair with a Try with salads and sautéed potatoes. slightly lemony taste of wild honey. block Weight and Shape 110lb (50kg). but left at room with white mold. creating an almost black rind dusted curdlike and crumbly. Size D. with a savory. 20in (50cm). salty tang and a hint of the Zweigelt wine. 6in (15cm). W. in a dairy near naturally using a lactic starter rather The Vorarlberg mountains overshadow the Slovenian border. wheel Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg). when by chance than rennet. softer. 8in (20cm). tender texture. temporarily stored in pressed. 6in (15cm). cheese its buttery yellow color and subtle a fermenting-fruit. The taste is lemony fresh. in a fondue. it ripens TASTING NOTES The rind is thick and the AUSTRIA and becomes smooth. then milled and pressed again. vinegar. HOW TO ENJOY In Tirol. AUSTRIA Tirol and Steiermark AUSTRIA Vorarlberg AUSTRIA Steiermark Age 4 weeks Age 6–8 months Age 6–8 weeks Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg). and onion rings. The grazing gives the TASTING NOTESAfter six weeks. 6in (15cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow 237 Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various Producer Schärdinger Group Producers Various . complemented by a fruity Chardonnay. The Styrian version is typically HOW TO ENJOY Vorarlberger is equally at HOW TO ENJOY Eye-catching cheese board grated over ﬂat cake on buttered bread. this cheese from Tirol is Lake Constance. TASTING NOTES In the ﬁrst few days. H. 2in (5cm) H. carpeted with wild ﬂowers and grasses a nearby wine cellar. it is Bergkäse. pumpkin seed oil. or mountain cheese. red Zweigelt wine from Styrian country. temperature for a few days. during the summer months. balanced by a smooth. or grilled. Their high pastures the new cheese. absorbed the There is also a version of Graukäse provide superb grazing for the cattle wonderful aromas. addition with crusty bread. it is served with undercurrent with age. and almost paste supple. 5in (12cm) Size D. and Weinkäse was made in Steiermark. round Size L. it has runny. producing born. home as a snack. ﬂavorsome milk to make this valley and washed with red wine.Tiroler Graukäse PDO Vorarlberger Bergkäse Weinkäse Made with skim milk and soured PDO First made in Leibnitz. each with a few cows. where each summer the cows go G E R M A N Y. Burgundy red wine. the exquisite aroma of the ﬂowery as “Surchoix” or the even better “Extra. Serve with and rolled. H. and served with a prickling with crusty bread. nutty. they white wine. 20in (50cm).” meadows captured in the milk. Hobelkäse reveals the cheese is more aromatic. and a Dole or white wine from the Lake Geneva red wine such as Dole or Fitou. SWITZERLAND Appenzell Ausserrhoden. 5in (12cm) (pictured) (pictured) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various Producer Various Producer Various . herbs. at the annual “Chästeilet. pool closely-guarded secret blend of cider. 6in (15cm) Size D. near Fribourg. 14in (35cm). and Age From 12 months Age 18 months Thurgau Weight and Shape 66–88lb (30–40kg). it is ﬁrm TASTING NOTES The “classic” at six months and dense with a nutty ﬂavor. or into sauces. and is sold that is rich. it has a wonderful complexity with a cheese rake. 271⁄2in (70cm). salads. is named after the picturesque village Valais. or the cheese board when aged. and spices. At 8 TASTING NOTES Cut in paper-thin slices has nutty notes and a spicy ﬁnish. H. or a racy walnuts. TASTING NOTES At 4 months. H. cider. beer. S W I T Z E R L A N D this cheese has a brown-orange of Gruyère. Weight 17lb 10oz–22lb (8–10kg). vegetables. A U S T R I A . In fall. The the farmers. It is still the mountains in summer when the return home and share out the cheeses made in small village dairies but cows graze the alpine pastures. strong. best. wheel Size D.” a major marketed under a joint brand name. Gruyère d’Alpage. HOW TO ENJOY This essential ingredient HOW TO ENJOY Popular for breakfast when for fondue. and can to graze in the mountain pastures.SWITZERLAND Appenzeller Gruyère AOC Hobelkäse Made in the hilly Pre-alps of Switzerland’s most popular cheese Made in the Bernese Oberland and Switzerland for more than 700 years. Grate over pasta. 6in (15cm) (pictured) Size D. wheel Age 6–8 months wheel (pictured) 238 Weight and Shape 17lb 10oz (8kg). are made in milk to make cheese. fruity bread. SWITZERLAND Fribourg SWITZERLAND Bern and Valais Appenzell Innerrhoden. vineyards as an aperitif. Later months. or HOW TO ENJOY Traditionally thinly sliced young. and earthy. Sankt Gallen. and aromatic rind from washing with a trace its history back to 1072. event for the farmers and tourists. HOW TO ENJOY Superb grated into pasta Mutschli is typically fried in a pan and and soups. wheel Age 18–48 months (pictured) Size D. Bagnes. It is now made hard. with pickled cucumbers and wine. H. and a light has a distinct aroma from the ﬂowery yellow color. with spicy. Mutschli is a pleasant TASTING NOTES A brown. 8in (20cm). throughout Switzerland. or Champagne. 151⁄2in (40cm). Otherwise it is eaten mostly as potatoes. leathery washed meadows. fruity. it is less crumbly than Parmigiano- comes in various shapes and sizes. wheel Size D. and Age 5 weeks Age 6 months Nidwalden Weight and Shape 10oz (300g). like liquid gold when grilled. Raw milk Reggiano (see pp130–131) because it is cheeses from the valleys are stamped made with whole milk. Obwalden. 4in (10cm) (pictured) Milk Cow Size D. or occasionally ewe’s milk. a rich. TASTING NOTES Beneath the washed with their origin—for instance.” and the one described by the Roman writer village dairies. goat. TASTING NOTES Very hard and grainy.Mutschli Raclette Sbrinz AOC Produced in most regions of the The name originates from the French Sbrinz today is not very different from country from milk surplus in the word racler. and a local white or red wine. SWITZERLAND All over SWITZERLAND All over SWITZERLAND Luzern. SWITZERLAND yellow to brown rind is a soft. onions. with few or no holes. or ewe (pictured) Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Cow Producer Various Producer Various Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various . it paste. rind encases a smooth. as an aperitif. 12in (30cm) 239 Milk Cow. H. supple paste with undercurrents. H. slightly salty cheese and a children’s favorite. and others. meaning “to scrape.” Although it is very smaller than most Swiss cheeses. round Weight and Shape 131⁄4lb (6kg). it piping hot potatoes. similar to HOW TO ENJOY Serve on top of steaming fruity Swiss or Burgundy red or white raclette. 18in (45cm). goat’s. 4in (10cm) Weight 66–88lb (30–40kg). mild Orsières. part of breakfast or as a snack. or serve accompanied by a served with boiled potatoes. using cow’s. Goms. savory ﬂavour that tastes HOW TO ENJOY In central Switzerland. or relates to the process of broiling the Pliny in 70 BC as caseus helveticus. Signiﬁcantly cheese and scraping it onto bowls of “Swiss cheese. If you squeeze a small high pastures. the sweetness of ripe. Age 4–18 months fruity white Swiss wine. Fed a diet of hay. and wonderfully stretchy while its 240 sweet. Cattle grazing in the summer alpage. and herbs. Size D. and the peaceful cows with of moisture trapped in the holes. so they pooled their milk. wooden balconies. for breakfast. as it warms. it does not break down in sauces but lends itself to being grated or melted. Little has changed since then. their hand-painted bells grazing it will be as close to perfect as you will ﬁnd. S W I T Z E R L A N D except that Emmental is now made perfume like a million meadow ﬂowers rind guarantees authenticity to the consumer. a RIND The distinctive. With its immense ﬂavor and ﬁrm texture. slow-ripening cheeses. and. grasses. fermenting you can still see the timber-built fruit. all over Switzerland where there are is released. sandwiches. Emmental can trace milk is needed for one cheese. A U S T R I A . creamy. as you hushed tones of the alpine meadows. If you boxes. you can feel its supple texture mountain chalets or small owner. and is produced in piece. Far from the and impossible to duplicate despite nearest markets. milk that is more concentrated and which could ripen in the chalets until intense. nutty nature is underlined. As its history back to 1293 but was ﬁrst mentioned by name in 1542. and tiny ﬁnd one that has a tiny “tear” windows. Emmental can be served with SWITZERLAND All over big red or white wines or even a crisp. you can taste the operated cooperatives. Hence. Over make a cheese that required months winter. meadows abundant with wild farmers would take their small ﬂowers. Emme valley. the cattle are housed in to mature. It is this herds to the summer pastures. and herbaceous white wine chalets with their colorful ﬂower that tingles on the palate. unlike most hard cheese. but comes into its own in a fondue where it is rich. repeating pattern on the G E R M A N Y. wheel than Gruyère (see p240). that makes Swiss Emmental unique known as alpage. they give creating huge. they needed to many copies the world over.000 liters) of One of the great classics of the cheese world. a result. Its stringy texture when cooked means. but the color is a paler the cows returned to the valleys at yellow and the cheeses often smaller. barns. the beginning of fall. At the beginning of each summer. 311⁄2–39in (80–100cm). 6–101⁄2in (16–27cm) which has no holes. H. Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various . Emmentaler A CLOSER LOOK About 265 gallons (1. like all the big mountain cheeses of Europe. and on a cheeseboard. TASTING NOTES When ﬁrst cut. especially in a Croque Monsieur. they are made by when the recipe was given to the people of Langenthal in the cooperatives rather than individuals. Weight and Shape 165–220lb The texture is more elastic (75–100kg). travel through the magniﬁcent Alps. HOW TO ENJOY Great for snacking. vats. unable to escape.” The sides are branded with a more times. traditionally a huge copper kettle. these bubbles create the small holes characteristic of the cheese. The best are stamped in red with the is kneaded so it ﬁlls the hoop and put into a alpine horn blower (common to all Swiss press.CUTTING THE CURD The milk is warmed in a large vat. unique identiﬁcation number for traceability. can ascertain the size. It is then turned and the diameter of the cheeses) and the words “Switzerland” and hoop reduced. The curd is cut with wires strung will tap each cheese and. from the resonance in a giant frame. GRADING After 6–12 months. . The process is repeated six or “Emmental. distribution. In the traditional hemispherical or echo. Quarter wheel SWITZERLAND 241 The propionic bacteria present during maturation gives off bubbles of carbon dioxide. KNEADING AND PRESSING The curd quality. a grader and three different starter cultures are stirred using a special hammer like a piano tuner’s into the milk. a ﬁgure-eight motion is required to cut the and even shape of the holes and therefore its curd evenly into rice-sized pieces. and enjoy with a Lake Vully or Chablis. It is also known was renamed “head of the monks. its Switzerland. and spread over crusty white bread with HOW TO ENJOY Great with crispy bread. cone (600–800g). 5in (12cm).” in almost liquid. Cider or create rosettes. it break down the curd until it becomes ground fenugreek seeds. and TASTING NOTES Vaudoise is mild and truncated cone. slightly savory taste. Schabziger or Sapsago Tête de Moine AOC Tomme Vaudoise This unique and very distinctive lime First made in the twelfth century by Made in the French-speaking part of green zero-fat cheese has been made monks at Bellelay monastery. it has a buttery. wrinkled G E R M A N Y. H. recognition of enthusiastic consumption. when the local production then shifted to farms owned rind dusted with white mold. 2in (5cm). 1in (3cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow or goat Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Soft white Producer Geska Producer Various Producer Various . Skim milk by the monastery. racy. while Fleurette has a more revealed when pared into rosettes with intense. truncated Weight and Shape 1lb 5oz–13⁄4lb Weight and Shape 31⁄2–5oz (100–150g). S W I T Z E R L A N D since the 11th century. The raw monks introduced fenugreek. TASTING NOTES Pressed into a small. then given to the Church as a tithe. the rind. fondues. and lightly fry. A U S T R I A . and a potatoes. cylinder disc 242 Size D. yellow as the result of meadow ﬂowers. SWITZERLAND Glarus SWITZERLAND Jura SWITERLAND Vaud and Fribourg Age 8 weeks Age 8 months Age 4–6 weeks Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (100g). sold as Tomme de Chèvre. rustic ﬂavor as it softens. creamy with a hint of mushrooms from almost eye-wateringly spicy tang. H. HOW TO ENJOY Mix with equal parts butter the specially invented girolle machine. TASTING NOTES Dense. It spices up baked HOW TO ENJOY Using the girolle. 6in (16cm). and serve with salad. and soups. or dip in breadcrumbs Pinot Noir work well with it. guests especially caraway or walnut. smooth. this has a thin. Originally develops reddish-brown patches that ﬁnely ground and mixed with the named Bellelay after the monastery. Goat’s-milk cheeses are as Sapsago. onions or fresh chives. Geneva white and fresh walnuts. 7in (18cm) Size: D. when the cheese was cow’s-milk cheese Tomme Fleurette curds are aged for a few weeks. 4in (10cm) Size D. it has a powerful. when it was served to the the summer. wheel (1kg). tender aftertaste of alpine ﬂowers hints of farmyards. the canton of Fribourg. SWITZERLAND Fribourg SWITZERLAND Vaud SWITZERLAND Ticino Age 9 weeks–6 months Age 6–10 weeks Age 6 months Weight and Shape 131⁄4lb–17lb 10oz Weight and Shape 14oz (400g) and 21⁄4lb Weight and Shape 131⁄4lb–17lb 10oz (6–8kg). round Size D. 30 minutes. particularly cheese soup. Its ﬂavors intensify and white wine. all the cheeses are round dense. it has a spruce bark. HOW TO ENJOY At its best in fondue au or make a little hole in the rind. Serve with a dry white. when the cows come down from Swiss alps. is a March. In They are named after the particular fame in 1448. SWITZERLAND TASTING NOTES Encircled with aromatic TASTING NOTES The ivory paste has tiny TASTING NOTES Supple and nutty. with a woody tang. HOW TO ENJOY Spoon direct from the box. round (6–8kg). Produced in the mountains to spend winter in the and covered with a thick gray mold. not to be This is produced from September until Maggia on the southern side of the confused with Vacherin Mont d’Or. with the local Merlot wine. sometimes mixed with goat or ewe Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Various . H. 3in (8cm) Size D. made with three vacherins of in some white wine. buttery taste. fragrance of the smoke that drifts into when the cheese is melted.Vacherin Fribourgeois Vacherin Mont d’Or Valle Maggia AOC AOC Produced in villages in the valley of Vacherin Fribourgeois. meadow ﬂowers. Pair with Pinot Noir. long. Piora. it ﬁrst came to warm barns of individual farmers. 18in (45cm). of the Duke Sigismund of Austria. the almost liquid interior holes and a smooth. the storeroom from the farmer’s ﬁre. 5in (12cm) 243 (pictured) Milk Cow (pictured) Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Cow. deep yellow cheese. There is also sometimes a subtle and freshly cut hay. Verzasca. H. H. 151⁄2in (40cm). their milk is combined to valley in which they are produced: daughter of the Scottish king and wife make huge wheels of Gruyère. 41⁄2in (11cm) Size D. pour HOW TO ENJOY Perfect sustenance for vacherin. Bedretto. 7in (18cm). etc. and put the whole walking and hiking. enjoyed with dried different ages—like the best-ever box in the oven at 425°F (220°C) for pork or venison sausage. Krievijas or Russian Cheese DENMARK PRODUCED LITHUANIA THROUGHOUT THE COUNTRY Esrom ★ Key Bla Castello. and is known for its long. Samsø Dzuiga Klasiskais. Grevéost. FINLAND PRODUCED FINLAND Finland. reindeer goats. milk is still used to make cheese. lakes. LITHUANIA With a past that is Hushållsost. is independent and a full member of Gammelost Prästost. which is why Lapland. Sweden. often in the form of whey cheese. sharing its Västerbottenost border with multiple nations. and culinary environment. but most is made in large Jarlsberg. with Scandinavia encompasses Denmark. The result is a unique economic. celebrating the summer solstice. prevailed. Gjetost LATVIA PRODUCED THROUGHOUT THE COUNTRY Janu Siers or John’s Cheese. PGI. in far northern Scandinavia. ★ AOC. that features many European-style 100 km Turunmaa cheeses. where cheese SWEDEN plays an important role. Sniega Bumbas or Snowballs. cultural. as well as its own unique reindeer cheese (Juustoleipä) that is toasted in front of the ﬁre. or PDO cheeses Danablu Produced only here Danbo Produced throughout the region Havarti . and the exceptionally rich milk produces cheese SWEDEN Sweden’s well-established with an earthy. cheeses exported around the world. Norway is made up essential to preserve their most precious source of forests. and meadows. like Dziuga. the most SCANDINAVIA southern of the Scandinavian countries. who were sent to convert the war- mongering Vikings to a more peaceful way of life. Norway. Herrgårdsost. farmers found it bordering the sea. NORWAY With the exception of a As a result of being isolated for much of the year long. has a thriving dairy industry Oltermanni. dark winter days and all-day summer sunlight. today Lithuania Ridder Mesost. and Finland. LATVIA Since ancient times. Denmark has a thriving dairy industry. narrow strip of grazing land and having short grazing times. John’s Ädelost. from the Vikings to the Greeks. rugged mountains. In tundra in the north. has a milder maritime climate and ﬂat meadows that are home to comfort-loving cows. factories. the European Union. Janu Siers PRODUCED takes a center stage on the most THROUGHOUT THE COUNTRY popular holiday: Ligo. North and South. PRODUCED many rural households still make their THROUGHOUT THE COUNTRY own cheese. or St. A land NORWAY of rivers. introduced cheesemaking. Latvia has been at the crossroads between East and West. DOP. unescapably complex. gamey ﬂavor. dairy industry dates back to the 9th century when Benedictine monks. Trikantlers Reserve. with an average dairy herd of only 10 head. rather than cows. which was Nökkelost established in 1904. DOC. Day. N DENMARK Denmark. and of protein. which has one- THROUGHOUT 100 miles THE COUNTRY third of its landmass in the Arctic Juustoleipä. Circle. almost with small holes. also known as milk. or hoppy ale to offset its salty tang. apples.6kg). It partners well with course. it pairs well with grapes.5cm) and 8in (20cm). slightly sweet and nutty. also known as Blue French blues. has a unique rind that can worldwide. and 21⁄4lb (1. or also great for sandwiches and for and goes nicely with bread and. as an alternative to the imported is one of Denmark’s most popular Bla Castello. mild deep purple-blue streaks. The smooth. DENMARK Bla Castello Danablu Danbo Developed in the 1960s to meet the Invented in the early 20th century This milder version of Samsø (see p246) demand for mild. H. 8in (20cm). HOW TO ENJOY This breakfast cheese is HOW TO ENJOY Ideal for younger palates. drum or Weight and Shape Various moon. It needs a slightly sweet wine dark breads such as pumpernickel. wax. Danablu. becomes too strong. TASTING NOTES This rich and buttery TASTING NOTES This mature blue has cheese has a Brie-like texture. beers. DENMARK All over DENMARK All over DENMARK All over Age 8–10 weeks Age 2–3 months Age 6–12 months Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (150g). round block Size Various Size D. and ciders. is one of the most popular rind is often covered in red or orange blue-green molds.5cm) and 21⁄2in (6cm) Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Blue Producer Various Classiﬁcation Blue Producer Rosenborg Producer Tholstrup . 4in (10cm) Milk Cow 245 H. and well with Danish beer. with a pleasant DENMARK spicy accents of blue veins. barely formed yellow develop a combination of red and Danish Blue. creamy blue cheese. and the taste is that develops steadily but never metallic blue bite and creamy ﬁnish. The pliable interior is spattered that hints of mushrooms. HOW TO ENJOY A cheese-board stalwart. salty. a smooth yet TASTING NOTES It is pale. Size D. Matches pickles. 2in (5. and is made with reduced-fat Castello. It is also known as King Christian or Christian IX in the United States. apple juice. 41⁄2in (11. and a ﬂavor that is fresh with a sharp. half Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb (3kg). cheeses in Denmark. moist texture. Danish crispbread. or try it with olives and general snacking. of tomatoes. and a full ﬂavor aroma. and now available cheeses. an aroma crumbly. holes. 2½in Milk Cow H. 2in (5cm) (pictured) Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Cow Milk Cow Producer Various Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Various . and very TASTING NOTES Mild and buttery when still retaining its sweetness. this was reintroduced by cheese. or slicing and broiling. Esrom PGI Havarti Samsø First made by Cistercian monks in the Probably Denmark’s most famous This semi-soft cheese was created in the 12th century. cheese—a masterpiece with its added Emmental was the result. Some contain caraway seeds. Size Various. Esrom is sweet and buttery. It is named cream.” after her farm. L. 5in (12cm). Havarti was invented in the early 19th century when the king of the Danish Cheese Institute in 1951. mellow. 8½in (22cm). W.5kg). it has a buttery aroma that young. H. cold cuts of hams and charcuterie. hazelnut ﬂavors. to share their skills with Danish was renamed “Esrom” after the ancient She traveled through Europe to learn farmers. becomes sharper and saltier with hints sweet-sour pungency and distinct of hazelnut. L. HOW TO ENJOY Perfect for a fondue. HOW TO ENJOY It is ideal in a traditional Danish open sandwich. A pale elastic-textured cheese abbey in which it was ﬁrst made. 2½in (6cm) (pictured) (6cm). it is ideal for Danish open sandwiches. sliced on a chunk of rye bread. it becomes more pungent with age. or adding to salads. mid-1800s by Hanne Neilsen. a S C A N D I N AV I A TASTING NOTES Pale lemon with small “Havarthi. Mitjylland Age 21–28 days Age 4–12 weeks Age 8–12 weeks Weight and Shape 7oz–4½lb (200g–2kg). blocks Weight and Shape Various brick or drums Size Various 246 Size Various. 4½in (11cm). traditional Viking meeting place. as it ages.” it the wife of a farmer from New Zealand. Weight and Shape 10lb (4. Samsø develops a styles are made with garlic or pepper. DENMARK Hovedstaden DENMARK All over DENMARK Samsø. melted on top of grilled potatoes. Some creamy. who was Denmark invited Swiss cheesemakers Formerly named “Danish Port Salut. or eaten with HOW TO ENJOY A great snacking cheese. while TASTING NOTES Sweet. It was originally named after the Danish island of Samsø. Esrom cheesemaking and invented this with irregularly-shaped holes based on was granted PGI status in 1996. W. brownish-yellow interior is ﬂecked caramel and peanut butter ﬂavors as with erratic. Its taste. uneven streaks of blue. with a Camembert or Danish Blue. 6in (15cm). This versatile HOW TO ENJOY An after-dinner favorite. well as its unique aromatic. drum Weight and Shape 9oz–1lb 2oz Weight and Shape 22lb (10kg). and less nutty. or with smoked ham. wheel or Size D. mainly in Sogn “goat” in Norwegian. it was mold traditionally achieved by has the color of French mustard and revived in the mid-1900s. that made with pure yellow color. with spiced fruitcake at Christmas. 8in (20cm) (250–500g). sweeter. more N O R WAY a pungent tang reminiscent of aged TASTING NOTES This is not to everyone’s supple. goaty taste. while ekta TASTING NOTES Sharp and aromatic gjetost is made with pure goat’s milk. It is made with using only goat’s milk—gjet means grazing in high summer pastures. TASTING NOTESIt was inspired by Swiss with a brittle. HOW TO ENJOY Try it sliced in salads or as a party snack. To differentiate has large round holes and a lemony- og Fjordane and Hardanger. granular texture and Emmental. HOW TO ENJOY Gjetost is traditionally cheese is also great in sandwiches robust enough to be enjoyed with strong eaten thinly shaved on ﬂatbread. NORWAY Gammelost Gjetost Jarlsberg Gammelost means “old cheese. 4in (10cm). 2½in (6cm). NORWAY Vestlandet NORWAY Østlandet NORWAY All over Age 4–5 weeks Age From a few days Age 1–15 months Weight and Shape 6½lb (3kg). and whey. but Norwegians love its sweet fermenting fruit tang to the ﬁnish. the styles today. L. H. Gjetost Jarlsberg and Vestfold county. Size: Various 247 H. cream. digestives such as schnapps or grappa. cylinder block Milk Goat Size Various. It was once made the rich milk produced from cows gin and juniper berries. cow’s milk is called mysost.” a name Made in the Gudbrandsdalen Valley First produced in the 1860s in given because it grows a green-brown using milk. but Jarlsberg is softer. 1½in (4cm) (pictured) Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Hard Milk Goat or cow Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various Classiﬁcation Fresh Producer Tine Producer Various . melted on toast. or served with crudités. W. Made from wrapping the cheese in straw soaked in the texture of fudge. it very low-fat skim milk. blue bite and salty tang of the cheese. HOW TO ENJOY Nökkelost adds a warm HOW TO ENJOY An excellent dessert HOW TO ENJOY Crumble over salads or spiciness to tarts and baked vegetables. pale yellow interior. Made in Norway “knight. H. are scattered through its pale. this which gives it a sticky. especially when it mix with extra virgin olive oil and or serve simply with fresh apples and is served with fresh summer berries. SWEDEN Nökkelost Ridder Ädelost Made with reduced-fat milk and Ridder is a semi-soft cheese that is Ädelost. texture emphasizes the sharp. 2–3in (5–7cm) Size D.” it was invented in 1969 by the pockets and short broken veins that since the 17th century. and slightly nutty. and beer. interior. with gray. TASTING NOTES Ädelost’s high-moisture a creamy feel and a warm spicy ﬂavor pliable. Serve with a hoppy or baked. It is characterized by blue-gray Leidsekaas (see p229). orange rind. 7in (18cm).5kg). H. S C A N D I N AV I A TASTING NOTES Sweet. yet TASTING NOTES Springy yet ﬁrm. wheel Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb (2. drum Size Various Size D. It tastes more mellow when it is grilled salad dressing. white. NORWAY All over NORWAY Vestlandet (Western Norway) SWEDEN All over Age 12 weeks Age 12–15 weeks Age 8–12 weeks Weight and Shape Various Weight and Shape 7lb (3. cheese when young. it has sharp. with a dense. and blue molds. creamy after the crossed keys (nökkel) that are and is now available worldwide.25kg). Ridder becomes more pungent. buttery. only original blue and was created as chopped cumin seeds and cloves. spicy that hints of Christmas. 4in (10cm) 248 Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Flavor-added Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Blue Producer Tine Producer Tine Producer Various .” is Sweden’s generously sprinkled with ﬁnely washed in brine mixed with annatto. beer or local schnapps. pale rind is dusted the emblem of the Dutch city of Leiden. The thin. pumpernickel. 6in (15cm). or “noble cheese. it is named Swedish cheesemaker Sven Fenelius. As it ages. balsamic vinegar to make a piquant pears. an alternative to the imported French semi-soft cheese is based on Dutch Named after the Norwegian word for blues. Hushållsost SWEDEN to the bite. pizzas.” Although one of the country’s best-known and Produced in large wheels. even melted on top of casseroles. it is holes of irregular size and shape. with smaller round holes. sweet unashamedly with whole milk. its zingy tang has a lemon-fresh ﬁnish. HOW TO ENJOY Spread brioche with HOW TO ENJOY Like Gruyère. H.Grevéost Herrgårdsost Hushållsost Commercially produced and based on Created in the early 20th century as a Hushållsost means “household cheese” Emmental (see pp242–43). it is made Swedish cooking because its mild. or grated into accentuate its tangy character. it is also well as a snack. 4–51⁄2in (10–14cm) (12–18kg). intensiﬁes with age. D. and a “light” based on Gruyère. to traditional breakfast buffet. with TASTING NOTES Sweet and nutty. H. melted. ﬂavor appeals to young and old alike. match with a fruity white wine. an open texture. 14in (35cm). 5in (5–8cm) 249 (12cm) (pictured) Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Various . Nutty and with a taste similar a straw-colored interior. in Swedish. dense interior with Herrgårdsost gets its name from the 700 years of history behind it. HOW TO ENJOY Popular as part of the cheese and smoked ham. and a barely formed rind. SWEDEN All over SWEDEN All over SWEDEN All over Age 40 weeks Age 4–24 months Age 4–12 weeks Weight and Shape 33lb (15kg). texture with small irregular holes. TASTING NOTES The pale yellow interior has a thin rind that is most often TASTING NOTES Mild and creamy. Also works Try it with pickled gherkins. round Size D. this cheese plays a daily role in supple. it is softer and more most-used cheeses. 8–10in (20–25cm). 2–3in Milk Cow Size Various. and béchamel-type sauces. but it lacks Emmental’s depth. Unlike many variety. and great for sandwiches. H. with a dense and pliable to mild cheddar. Swedish for “manor house. wheel Weight and Shape 33lb–39lb 11oz Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb (3kg). Grevéost local alternative to Gruyère (see p285). it is ﬁrm waxed. tarts. Swedish cheeses. 151⁄2in (40cm). this is an butter and ﬁll with thin slices of the excellent eating and cooking cheese. drum Size D. and with more than has a pale yellow. the local market to recoup some costs. wheel (1kg–8kg). or ewe Classiﬁcation: Hard Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Fresh Producer Various Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Various . traditional cheeses. holes and a fruity tang that becomes ﬂavor and bitter aftertaste. As a result. schnapps. the long. Once paid. more savory with age. HOW TO ENJOY Try it sprinkled on hearty HOW TO ENJOYIt is usually served for soups. it is TASTING NOTES It is hard and granular not brought up with it. with small irregular sweet with a creamy. Mesost Prästost Västerbottenost This whey cheese came about from the Prästost or “priest cheese. a mass-produced cheese invented in the Sometimes cream or milk is added to Today it is factory-made. leaving behind a sticky of the milk into cheese and sold it at dairies across Sweden. 1–3in Milk Cow (5–7cm) (pictured) Milk Cow. SWEDEN All over SWEDEN All over SWEDEN All over Age From a few days Age Up to 12 months Age Up to 12 months Weight and Shape 2lb 4oz–17lb 6oz Weight and Shape 26lb 5oz–33lb Weight and Shape 44lb (20kg). 8in (20cm) 250 Size Various Size Various. on chili con carne. 4in (10cm). is modeled on these S C A N D I N AV I A increase the yield. caramel fudge fruity tingle on the palate. or dimension to a cheese board with a cheese. the cheese is robust. Västerbottenost. 20in (50cm). The tithe to the local church in the form of into food that will last through the whey is cooked so that the proteins and goods. brown caramelized mass of sugars. or as an extra HOW TO ENJOY A great after-dinner breakfast with toast or bread. D. H. hard fats separate and the remaining liquid farmer’s wife converted the balance cheeses were made in homes and small evaporates. TASTING NOTES Supple with rice-sized TASTING NOTESAn acquired taste to those holes and a squishy texture. wheels Size D. best served with beer. sweet-sour. mid-19th century. fruity red. as a snack. and leaves a sharp. blocks (12kg–15kg). including milk. harsh winter. or red wine.” dates from Swedish cuisine is all about converting need of the Scandinavian producers to the 16th century when farmers paid a the bounty of the brief summer harvest use every element of their milk. H. goat. like aged cheddar. round cylinder drum Size D. FINLAND Finland FINLAND All over FINLAND All over Age From a few days Age 1–3 months Age 8–12 weeks Weight and Shape 28oz (800g). the whitish-yellow Similar to Turunmaa. 2–3in (5–7cm) 251 Milk Cow or reindeer Milk Cow Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Valio Producer Valio . H. 51⁄2in (14cm). The curd farmers. FINLAND TASTING NOTES interior is ﬂoppy and squeaky on the has a barely formed rind and small. like a delicious sweet milk. 1⁄2in (1. and a richness that comes from commercially made with cow’s milk. Juustoleipä or A Havarti-style cheese made by This cheese was originally made as a “cheese bread” was once made in homes Valio. where it is grilled and served on rye bread. it is served at breakfast. H. cheeses. hence the name. is sometimes sold as Baby Muenster the excellent grazing in the area. TASTING NOTES Beneath the lightly. H. Finland’s ancient was pressed into ﬂat wooden platters in the European Union thanks to their capital in the 16th century.1kg). HOW TO ENJOY Like many Scandinavian HOW TO ENJOY Rarely found outside cheeses. It has a savory tang liked grilled palate. FINLAND Juustoleipä Oltermanni Turunmaa A unique cheese. or melted over toast. a large dairy owned by Finnish breakfast cheese in the grand manor using cow or reindeer milk. it tiny eyes and a rich. sliced HOW TO ENJOY Like most Scandinavian Finland. or Finlandia Cheese. into a cup of coffee but not consumed. 4in (10cm) Size D. A Havarti- then toasted in front of an open crystal-clear water and freedom from style cheese. TASTING NOTES Chewy and creamy with toasted rind. deep buttery taste.5cm) Size D. who produce the cleanest milk houses of Turku. but slightly rubbery omelet. pineapple. 4–6in (10–15cm). it has a ﬁrm yet open ﬁre. ﬂattened Weight and Shape 2lb 4oz (1. irregular holes. with hints of coconut. Outside Finland it texture. it is served at breakfast or with with fruit jam for breakfast. or dropped slices of smoked ham and cold meats. Weight and Shape 13–22lb (6–10kg). and eggs. cheddar on the ﬁnish. 41⁄2in (11cm). Today it is industrial pollution. it is used in the kitchen shaped into a round. H. in the Tilsit. H. HOW TO ENJOY It grills and slices well. LATVIA All over LATVIA All over LATVIA All over Age 1–4 weeks Age 2–6 months Age 90 days Weight and Shape 15oz (425g). 10in (26cm). HOW TO ENJOY Perfect for making snacks HOW TO ENJOY Made in homes across makes a great breakfast. a cheese that originated in a town beating in eggs. and caraway milk I washed my mouth. and is good in like spicy cheese biscuits. round Weight and Shape 11lb (5kg). supple. 3in (7. TASTING NOTES Butter-yellow with somewhere between halloumi and hazelnut-sized holes and an intensely an elastic texture. H. it is buttery and Edam. or serve with Latvia. milk I was drinking. and salads. 4in (10cm) block 252 Milk Cow Milk Cow Size D. It becomes with a taste reminiscent of scrambled fermented pears. It tastes like sweet-savory when young. sweet and fruity aroma. cheese platters. it is based on the recipe for combining it with melted butter and was eating. 4in (11cm). Much loved by seeds. It has a mildly citrus zing. The ﬁnished mixture is Emmental-style cheese is also available the locals. the caraway. ﬂavored with fenugreek seeds.” This classic in Kaliningrad Oblast. then described in a traditional poem: “milk I Latvia. similar to a young stronger and aromatic with age. local dark rye bread and dark beer. 10in (26cm). chewy TASTING NOTES It has a dense. much as the English use cheddar or the Dutch use Gouda. round Weight and Shape 11lb (5kg).L ATVIA Janu Siers Klasiskais Krievijas or Russian This once-a-year treat is made by Milk and milk products play an Cheese heating cottage cheese and milk essential part of Latvian cuisine as One of the most popular cheeses in together until it curdles.5cm) Classiﬁcation Unique Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Cow Producer Various Producer Trikata Cooperative Dairy Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Trikata Cooperative Dairy . S C A N D I N AV I A TASTING NOTES It is a moist. sandwiches. offset by the exotic ﬂavor of Emmentaler or Maasdam. hinting eggs. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D.wheel or Size D. it is best served with rye bread. salt. of white wine and fruit. cheese with a texture that lies yellow interior with irregularly shaped. 31⁄2–4in 253 (9–10cm) Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Hard Milk Cow Producer Trikata Cooperative Dairy Producer Trikata Cooperative Dairy Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Dzuigas Cooperative . and makes it a great ingredient for sauces. ﬂuffy holes. salads. Edam similar in style to Parmesan and is made and is now a cooperative owned by and Tilsit. grapes.5kg). It is believed to give strength and with garlic or rolled in tomato. L ITHUANIA Sniega Bumbas Trikantlers Reserve Dziugas “Trika¯ tas Siers” or Three Cats Cheese A recent survey showed that Latvians Named after Dziugas. it is is one of the oldest dairies in Latvia could only name two cheeses. smooth interior. H.2–4. and hazelnuts. vegetables. pale yellow cheese TASTING NOTES These are small. in and around the Zemaitijos National LATVIA AND LITHUANIA including these cheeses ﬂavored Park. and a full-bodied nutty taste with a thin. 3in (7. when the 600 Latvian farmers. LATVIA All over LATVIA All over LITHUANIA Telsiai Age From a few days Age 8–10 months Age 12–36 month Weight and Shape 11⁄2oz (40g). So Trikata set up an online only between spring and fall. 36 months. full-bodied red.5cm) wheel Milk Cow Milk Cow Size D. At 24 months white balls of cow’s milk. producing an academy to educate and inspire the small herds graze the natural pastures increasing range of diverse cheeses. is equally at home on a cheese board. Size D. conservative Latvians to try new cheeses. balls Weight and Shape 11lb (5kg). 8 months. sprinkled with tiny TASTING NOTES A hard. with pears. cooking. and gratins. roasted HOW TO ENJOY Popular in the Baltics for HOW TO ENJOY An excellent appetizer. add to salads. round Weight and Shape 91⁄4–10lb (4. TASTING NOTES Aged for a minimum of joy to those who consume it. but or spread on bread or biscuits. with crunchy crystals. At packed in oil and infused with garlic. basil. it is served in rough chunks combine with vegetables. 1in (2cm) Size D. 81⁄2–91⁄2in (22–24cm). 10in (26cm). loosely along with fruity notes on the ﬁnish. the ﬂavor is intense and The tomato and herb combinations HOW TO ENJOY The full ﬂavor needs a fruity with a mouthwatering tingle are equally successful. H. it is savory. it has a deep yellow-orange. a local giant. edible crust. and herbs. THE COUNTRY HERZEGOVINA Škripavac Manur. CZECH Redykołka SLOVAKIA REPUBLIC PRODUCED THROUGHOUT PRODUCED THE COUNTRY THROUGHOUT THE COUNTRY Bovski ★. Brynza Mohant. Ostiepok. THE COUNTRY Brânză Balaton. Abertam. ROMANIA Sir. Liptauer Turoš CROATIA SLOVENIA SERBIA PRODUCED THROUGHOUT THE COUNTRY PRODUCED Kolan. HERZEGOVINA Manouri. Bryndza ★. Galotiri ★ Feta ★. Urda Sirene Paski Sir MONTENEGRO Kaseri ★ MACEDONIA PRODUCED THROUGHOUT Tulum ADRIATIC SEA THE COUNTRY Kashkaval GREECE ALBANIA PRODUCED Galotiri ★ AEGEAN SEA THROUGHOUT THE COUNTRY Kaseri ★ Kaçkavalli PRODUCED THROUGHOUT THE COUNTRY Kaseri ★ Anthotyros ★. PRODUCED Tolminc ★ HUNGARY THROUGHOUT PRODUCED THE COUNTRY THROUGHOUT Ardalena. THROUGHOUT Kačkavalj. Oscypek ★. BOSNIA& Kefalotyri ★. THROUGHOUT BULGARIA THE COUNTRY Sir PRODUCED BOSNIA& Brenca. Myzithra Graviera ★ IONIAN SEA Graviera ★ KRÌTI N 200 miles 200 km .EASTERN EUROPE AND THE NEAR EAST PRODUCED THROUGHOUT POLAND THE COUNTRY Bryndza ★. Nanoski. Kashkaval:. Teleme Lake Balaton. Cascaval ★. Kashkaval. In the 1980s. DOC. which was the food of the gods. ISRAEL AND THE NEAR EAST Although archaeological sites dating from 7000 BCE show signs that domestication of the then-evolving sheep and goat population could have led to the development of the ﬁrst cheeses for this region. the harsh climate BLACK SEA prevented the creation of the sophisticated cheeses that were seen in Europe. or PDO cheeses Produced only here Inbar Produced throughout the region PRODUCED ISRAEL THROUGHOUT Ketem THE COUNTRY Labane. but since the Iron Curtain dropped. from Roman to Russian and Turkish to Central Asian. The Eastern European dairy industry is now thriving. Eastern Europe’s borders changed frequently and numerous forces occupied the region. with many small traditional creameries producing a variety of European and local cheeses. artisan cheesemakers have reemerged. Halloumi Key Turkeez ★ AOC. GREECE In Greek mythology. interest in cheese beyond just fresh and salted or dried styles started a new wave of artisan and industrial cheeses. As a result. Zfatit MEDITERRANEAN SEA . When postwar Communism led to mass production. PGI. borders are blurred and cheeses with similar names and recipes are found throughout the region. Apollo’s son Aristaeus presented a gift of “everlasting value” to the Greeks: the secret of making cheese. which led to a melting pot of culinary inﬂuences. Tulum TURKEY PRODUCED THROUGHOUT THE COUNTRY Beyaz Peynir SYRIA LEBANON PRODUCED CYPRUS THROUGHOUT THE COUNTRY PRODUCED THROUGHOUT Akkawi THE COUNTRY Anari. Greeks eat more cheese per head than the French or Italians. small producers all but died out. EASTERN EUROPE From 552 CE. DOP. Records of Greek cheesemaking can be traced back as far as the 10th century BCE. and today. European-trained cheesemakers were able to upgrade the quality and awareness of traditional cheeses and produce European-style cheeses. The variety of mountain and maritime natural pastures plus the sun-kissed climate provide ideal conditions for the tenacious native goats and hardy sheep that provide the milk for some of the world’s oldest and greatest cheeses. cheese pastries. Weight and Shape 2–20lb (1–9kg). TASTING NOTES When fresh it is creamy with a little ewe or goat. It is based on Gruyère but can Kaseri is produced using a mix of goat’s or a mix of both. The Naxos version is richer. while Graviera provolone. goat. with the addition of be made with cow. it becomes elastic when cooked. when aged. or cow Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Fresh and aged fresh Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various Producer Various Producer Various . ﬁnish. or ewe’s milk. yet slightly sweet and a hint of smoke on the ﬁnish. Graviera ewe’s). and lemony with a unique ﬂoral taste. wheel truncated cone drum Size Various 256 Size Various Size Various Milk Ewe and goat Milk Ewe and goat Milk Ewe. depending on the season. It is an aged pasta ﬁlata or It is widely available throughout from Krìti (Crete) is made using ewe’s stretched curd cheese. with a dry feel in the mouth. milk and some goat. ball or Weight and Shape 41⁄2–171⁄2lb (2–8kg). is dry with a stronger. similar to Italian Greece as a soft or a hard cheese. goat. using the whey of ewe and goat’s milk. a delicate fragrance and burnt caramel pungent. TASTING NOTES Firm but supple with no when aged it develops gray molds and TASTING NOTES The Cretan Graviera is rind. and Xanthi Age A couple of days up to 12 months Age 3–5 months Age 12 weeks Weight and Shape 12oz (350g). cheeses. It HOW TO ENJOY A classic all-around table bread and smothered in fresh vine- is especially tasty when paired with cheese that can also be baked in tomato pulp and olives for your own fresh ﬁgs. with Quite salty. which gives it a stringy from Naxos is made with cow’s milk texture when cooked. HOW TO ENJOY A table cheese that is savory or sweet pastries. salty tang and sweet and fruity like Emmental.GREECE Anthotyros DOC Graviera DOC Kaseri DOC This has been made for centuries This is one of the most popular Greek One of the oldest cheeses in the world. GREECE All over GREECE Naxos and Krìti GREECE Thessalia. great for melting. Greek-style pizza. HOW TO ENJOY Traditionally used in creamier. Try on top of pita it is grated over hot savory dishes. and more nutty. and ewe’s milk (minimum 80 percent EASTERN EUROPE AND THE NEAR EAST small quantities of milk and cream. Mitilini island. 5–4. or sweet pastries. 3in (7cm) TASTING NOTES Mild and refreshing when Size Various Milk Ewe or goat fresh. Age 3–4 months Age From a few days while aged is dry. Weight and Shape 13–171⁄2lb (6–8kg). Byzantine era. it is scraped off to enable the whey to escape and the cheese to breathe. It is predominantly made with ewe’s milk. 91⁄2in (25cm) H. which is reminiscent of olive oil. whey of feta and Kefalotyri. The fresh curds from successive days are placed in barrels and sealed with fat or hung from the rafters in sacks to drain until needed. Producer Various HOW TO ENJOY Fresh Myzithra makes deliciously light sweet or savory dishes. slightly sour and brackish taste. HOW TO ENJOY Its low salt content means it is used in savory and sweet Myzithra HOW TO ENJOY Traditionally used in the dishes. a baked spinach and Made for thousands of years from thick slices are fried. 1–3lb (500g–1. sometimes cheese ﬁlo pastry pie. It comes in two types: fresh Myzithra is unsalted or slightly GREECE All over GREECE All over salty and similar to cottage cheese. If mold grows. Weight and Shape 1lb (500g). TASTING NOTES Soft and spreadable with a refreshing. GREECE also has a herbaceous tang as it ﬁnishes. it has a fresh Manouri is drained in cloth sacks and Producer Various taste and a distinct tang of ewe’s milk. especially in Made throughout Greece since the A very old and popular Greek “white” spreads with herbs or spices. small pots cheeses. Myzithra covered in egg and bread crumbs. pear Size Various Milk Ewe and goat Classiﬁcation Fresh and aged fresh Producer Various . while the dried version is ideal for grating over savory dishes such as pasta and pastries. particularly pastries such as classic Greek dish saganaki. where spanakopita. Weight and Shape Various. typically for household consumption rather than on a commercial scale. it has a nuttier and more salty 257 Milk Ewe. Size No size TASTING NOTES Similar to feta cheese but Milk Ewe.5lb (1–2kg) (fresh). which is much appreciated by the Greeks. It generally sold in logs. Kefalotyri is referred to or fresh cheese that is made from the as a “male” or “ﬁrst” cheese. creamier. which are made with whey. Kefalotyri DOC Manouri HOW TO ENJOY Used in various traditional dishes. log drum Size L. whey cheeses. is considered the ancestor of all Greek served with a squeeze of lemon. Galotiri DOC Galotiri is one of the oldest Greek cheeses.5kg) (dried). and less salty. and or simply served drizzled with honey. a term used drained whey from feta production. and ﬁrm. gray Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various moldy rind. salty. GREECE All over Age From a couple of days Weight and Shape 2. Classiﬁcation Fresh numerous irregular holes. or ewe and goat TASTING NOTES Firm but dry with smoother. and ewe and goat Classiﬁcation Fresh taste when aged and a dusty. GREECE Epirus and Thessalia to describe cheeses made with whole with the addition of larger quantities of Age Few days to a few months milk—as opposed to “female” or “second” milk than used in Anthotyros. Feta PDO A CLOSER LOOK Feta is produced in homes, small According to Greek mythology, the gods sent Apollo’s son family-run dairies, and large Aristaeus to teach the Greeks the art of cheesemaking; however, industrial units, but all respect the traditional recipe protected by the the ﬁrst, but no less magical, record of cheesemaking is Homer’s PDO status. This cheese is an Odyssey. Writing in the 8th century, Homer described seeing important component of the Greek Cyclops the giant making ewe’s-milk cheese in his cave, a diet, connected with the history and traditions of the country. simple recipe that would later become feta. Feta, granted protection in 2002 To those of us used to seeing sheep under the EU protected name grazing ankle-deep in grass and program PDO (see p8), can now only clover, it is hard to imagine they can be made in the mountainous regions eke out sufﬁcient food to survive, let of Macedonia, Thrace, Epirus, alone produce milk for cheese, from Thessaly, Sterea Ellada, their diet of wild herbs, ﬂowers, and Peloponnesus, and Mytilini from tenacious grasses. But it is precisely ewe’s or goat’s milk because it is in why they produce some of the these areas that the herds still graze thickest, most aromatic milk in the freely. As you watch the agile goats world. The scent of the thyme, EASTERN EUROPE AND THE NEAR EAST and endlessly patient sheep grazing marjoram, and pine are captured and the steep rugged hills and rock- concentrated in the tiny fat globules strewn pastures, it is easy to see why in the milk. the comfort-loving cow never made Greece its home. No pesticides, insect TASTING NOTES Firm and compact repellents, or other pollutants are yet easily crumbled, it has no rind and used, and you can still catch the a myriad of small holes. Very white if sound and a glimpse of the herds made with pure goat’s milk, it has a passing through small villages on the very fresh taste that hints of wild way to new pastures. herbs, white wine, and a slightly goaty tang. Ewe’s-milk feta feels a bit richer and creamier and is more ivory white. Feta is usually cut into small blocks and vacuum-packed in a little brine. Originally, The taste is reminiscent of roast lamb, shepherds who lived far from the sea where salt lamb fat, and lanolin. Both have a salt was bought would store their cheeses in olive oil. tang on the ﬁnish and a depth of ﬂavor from the grazing. HOW TO ENJOY Feta is eaten at 258 every meal in Greece, notably in spanokopita, the delicious cheese-and- spinach pies found all over Greece. Feta is also used in salads, usually with olives, tomatoes, raw onions, and olive oil, or mixed with any combination of The hardy goats graze the rugged landscape of raw or cooked vegetables. It does not Greece’s mountainous regions. dissolve completely when baked or GREECE All over melted, giving a lightness to many Age 2 months minimum Greek dishes. Weight and Shape Various If you ﬁnd feta to be too salty, Size Various simply soak a chunk in cold water Milk Goat or ewe or milk for 10–15 minutes. This Classiﬁcation Fresh removes excess salt but does not Producer Various mask the ﬂavor. DRAINING The curds and whey are poured onto large draining tables with low sides; traditionally, they would have been put in a basket woven from reeds and left to drain. The curd is turned 2–3 times over the next few hours and salted to speed up the expulsion of the whey. CUTTING THE CURD Once the starter culture and rennet have done their job, the soft The color changes depending ﬂoppy curd is cut into ½–¾in (1–2cm) cubes on the ratio of the different using what looks like a giant wooden comb or milks used. Goat’s milk is square harp. more white, while ewe’s milk is more ivory. GREECE 259 Block of cheese It crumbles easily, making it perfect for salads. SLOVAKIA ROMANIA Cascaval PDO Bryndza PGI Oštiepok PGI Made across Eastern Europe with Originally from the Carpathian A table cheese made from ewe’s similar names in Hungary, Bulgaria, Mountain region, Bryndza is a milk, this is very similar to the Macedonia, Serbia, and particularly feta-style cheese, probably introduced Polish Oszczypek or Oscypek cheese. EASTERN EUROPE AND THE NEAR EAST Romania, where they make around by the Greeks. Similar cheeses are The curds are pressed into beautiful, 23 varieties. It is similar in style to the made throughout Eastern Europe hand-crafted wooden molds, giving Italian cheese Caciocavallo. Its color using cow, goat, or ewe’s milk. each a unique identity, then stored in varies from pale yellow to yellow- the eaves of the house, where they brown, and it has a natural thin rind. TASTING NOTES Similar to feta, but softer, absorb smoke from the ﬁre below. spreadable, and not as salty. It has a TASTING NOTES It is ﬂexible and crumbly, lemony acidity and ranges from soft to TASTING NOTES Smoky and slightly salty, with a salty, sharp, almost bitter taste. ﬁrm and crumbly, depending on its age with a caramel taste from the milk. The There is also a hint of caramelized and the type of milk used. rind ranges from a pale straw color to a onions in the aftertaste. deep orange-brown, depending on the HOW TO ENJOY Spread on warm grainy age and smoking. HOW TO ENJOY Traditionally a table bread or crumble over baby salad cheese, it can be fried, baked in pastry leaves and tomatoes. Served as part of HOW TO ENJOY It combines well with dishes, or grated over vegetables. the traditional dish bryndzové halušky cured meats as well as sausages, and (potato dumplings with Bryndza). is used extensively in local dishes. ROMANIA All over SLOVAKIA All over SLOVAKIA All over Age 8 weeks Age 4 weeks or more Age 1–4 weeks Weight and Shape 15lb 7oz–19lb 13oz Weight and Shape 31⁄2–10oz (100–300g), Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz–41⁄2lb (7–9kg), irregular round block (150g–2kg), various shapes 260 Size D. 2–41⁄2in (5–11.5cm), H. 1in (3cm) Size L. 3–5in (7.5–12cm), 2–4in Size Various Milk Ewe, or ewe and cow (W. 5–10cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Milk Ewe Classiﬁcation Hard Milk Ewe, goat, or cow Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various Classiﬁcation Fresh Producer Various Producer Various TURKEY CYPRUS Beyaz Peynir Tulum Anari Known as “white cheese,” this feta-like One of the world’s oldest cheeses, Anari is made using whey from cheese is made and consumed in large Tulum is made by packing specially halloumi, plus some goat or ewe’s milk quantities all over Turkey. The recipe cured goatskins with fresh curd over a to improve the texture and taste. varies slightly from place to place, period of weeks. The skins are stitched Traditionally, if it is not consumed and it can be made from ewe, goat, or up and left to age for three months, fresh, it is salted and dried in the cow’s milk. before being slit open for the cheese to warm, dry air—which today happens TURKEY AND CYPRUS be served from the skins. by gentle heating. TASTING NOTES The taste varies from season to season depending on the mix TASTING NOTES Surprisingly mild with TASTING NOTES Chalky white, it is soft, of milks used. It can be salty to very aromatic or sweet ﬂavors depending on moist, and creamy with a very delicate, salty, hard to soft, but the creamier the milk and the seasons. Erzincan, the milky taste. Dried Anari is very hard version produced in Marmara is much most common variety, can be quite and salty. sought after. strong and somewhat bitter. HOW TO ENJOY Fresh Anari is served with HOW TO ENJOY It plays a major role in HOW TO ENJOY A relatively expensive fruit or carob-based syrups, or used to Turkish cuisine, from breakfast to artisan cheese, it is best served simply make bourekia—sweet and savory salads, snacks, or as a ﬁlling in drizzled with olive oil alongside fruit, pastries. Dried Anari is grated over vegetable and pastry dishes. ﬁgs, olives, or fresh vegetables. salads, pasta, or sauces. TURKEY All over TURKEY Eastern Anatolia and Aegean regions CYPRUS All over Age Minimum of 3 months Age From 3 months Age From a few days to a few months Weight and Shape 9oz–21⁄4lb (250g–1kg), Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–1lb 5oz Weight and Shape Various various (500–600g); pots or blocks Size Various, L. 4in (10cm), W. 4in (10cm), Size Various Size Various, L. 4in (10cm), W. 4in (10cm), H. 4in (10cm) 261 Milk Ewe, goat, or cow H. 4in (10cm) Milk Goat and ewe Classiﬁcation Fresh Milk Ewe, goat, or a mixture Classiﬁcation Fresh Producer Various Classiﬁcation Fresh Producer Various Producer Various Halloumi A CLOSER LOOK Halloumi is not unlike the Italian Born out of a need to preserve milk and provide protein during the pasta ﬁlata cheeses, which are winter months when the sheep and goats stopped producing milk, stretched. Halloumi is in fact kneaded, but it produces a halloumi was, and still is, a vital part of the Cypriot diet. similar texture. What gives halloumi its place in cow’s milk since it is not seasonal culinary history is not only its and is less expensive; however, this ability to keep its shape and not melt does impact the taste. when cooked, but the source of its Cyprus has applied for PDO milk, the amazing Mouﬂon breed of status, which is expected to be sheep, which were introduced during conﬁrmed in a few years. the Neolithic period and over thousands of years adapted to TASTING NOTES Salty and their environment and became an tangy with a bouncy texture but, when integral part of the community. cooked, the milk sugars or lactose in Sadly, they are now considered an the cheese caramelize on the outside, endangered species, although in giving it a sweet onion taste, while the other parts of the world they are texture is supple, springy, and squeaky. EASTERN EUROPE AND THE NEAR EAST bred for hunting and sport. The ﬂavor varies according to the Handsome-looking, they have a seasons and type of milk used. The red-brown rough coat and striking best are made with raw goat’s and HEATING Traditionally, raw goat’s or ewe’s milk during the spring and ewe’s milk, or a combination of both, was thick spiral horns that arch back heated in a cauldron. Today, some cow’s over their heads. summer months when the free-ranging milk is usually mixed in and pasteurized Some halloumi is still made animals graze on a myriad of wild in stainless steel vats. traditionally in rural areas, but ﬂowers, herbs, grasses, and bushes following huge international demand, that cover the rocky island. most is now produced in factories. Although they adhere to the HOW TO ENJOY The main traditional recipe using goat’s and ingredient in a Cypriot breakfast, ewe’s milk, most mix it with some appetizer, or lunch, halloumi is usually served alongside fresh fruit, such as melon and ﬁgs, or with vegetables. It is one of the few cheeses that do not melt when heated, thanks to its unique texture, and is excellent cut into thick slices and barbecued or 262 fried as an appetizer. It is essential not to use oil when frying halloumi, since oil seals the cheese and stops the milk sugars from escaping, causing the cheese to lose its sweet caramel ﬂavor. The Mouﬂon sheep, introduced during the Neolithic period. CYPRUS All over Weight and Shape 12oz (250g), blocks Size L. 5in (12cm), H. 21⁄2in (6cm) Milk Goat, ewe, or cow Classiﬁcation Fresh Producer Various The early-formed rind is shiny from the brine in which it was stored. CUTTING THE CURDS The curds are cut with knives or wires on a frame and stirred in the hot whey to harden the curd and expel more whey. The ﬁrm, dense texture is easy to slice for frying CYPRUS or grilling. 263 KNEADING The still slightly rubbery curds are cut into plastic molds and pressed by hand to remove the excess whey and create the texture. Block of cheese, sliced LEBANON Akkawi ISRAEL Inbar Ketem Very similar to feta, Akkawi is After a visit to a Swiss dairy, Michal Daniel and Anat Kornmehl, as part sometimes soaked in water to remove Melamed became fascinated with of a new generation of Israeli the salt so it can be used in sweet cheese making. She and her husband cheesemakers, have created a range of EASTERN EUROPE AND THE NEAR EAST dishes. Its name originates from Acre, then moved to the Galilee, where they European-style goat cheeses in the the port town. It is still made in many built their dairy in Kibbutz Reshaﬁm Negev desert. Ketem (“spot” in English) homes, but increasingly it is made to make sheep and goat cheese. Inbar is based on the much-loved French commercially in Europe for the is a tribute to Alpine-style cheeses. cheese Pelardon (see p73). Arab market. TASTING NOTES Firm yet supple with TASTING NOTES Beneath its wrinkled TASTING NOTES Very white and ﬁrm with a hard, dry rind and delicate, yet white rind, it is ﬁrm yet creamy and some small holes and a fresh, salty aromatic, slightly nutty taste. Also made melts in your mouth. When young it is taste. It feels slightly fatty when made ﬂavored with black pepper, thyme, red distinctly goaty but mild; once mature with cow’s milk. wine, mustard seeds, or chili pepper. it is strong, aromatic, sharp, and very stormy in character. HOW TO ENJOY It is very versatile and is HOW TO ENJOY Good on a cheese board, a staple ingredient of many Lebanese or slice thinly for sandwiches. Grate HOW TO ENJOYBest served as part of a and Middle Eastern dishes, from salads and melt in vegetable dishes. cheese board, but it is also good grilled to pastries, or simply as a snack. or baked. LEBANON All over ISRAEL Kibbutz Reshaﬁm, Emek ISRAEL Tlalim, Ramat HaNegev Age 1–3 months Hama’ayanot Age 2–3 weeks Weight and Shape Various, blocks Age From 2 months Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (160g), square 1 Size L. 41⁄2–6in (11–15cm), W. 4–6in Weight and Shape 4 ⁄2lb (2kg), round Size L. 4in (10cm), W. 4in (10cm), 264 (10–15cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. 10in (25cm), H. 3–4in (7–8cm) H. 1in (3cm) Milk Ewe or cow Milk Ewe Milk Goat Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Flavor-added Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Producer Various Producer Shirat Roim Dairy Producer Kornmehl Family Dairy and pita bread. family. it has a taste and salt makes it irresistible. 4in and 8in (10cm and 20cm). ISRAEL TASTING NOTES Deliciously rich and walnuts provide a crunchy. whole-milk yogurt overnight in The family learned their skills in the 19th century by the Hame’iry cloth and is made in many households Europe. pine nuts. fresh tomatoes. and goats that graze the pastures of around the world. round 1lb 2oz (500g). It is now made in small baskets for use as one of the basic ingredients made from the milk of their own sheep by various producers in Israel and of Eastern Mediterranean cuisine.Labane Turkeez Zfatit Found throughout the Middle East. Excellent with sweet wines. and accompanied local herbs. Often fresh tang. ISRAEL All over ISRAEL Kfar Yechezke’el. H. 2in (5cm) Size No size Size D. by warm sourdough bread. grated pepper. but labane is increasingly TASTING NOTES Bearing the imprint of made with cow’s milk. fresh salads. Those made with ewe’s milk reminiscent of Roquefort (see pp82–83). With age. the best are made with Harod Valley. ewe. or HOW TO ENJOY Best on a sunny morning HOW TO ENJOY Traditionally eaten at break it into chunks and use in fruit with a dash of olive oil. established A popular Israeli cheese. Gilboa ISRAEL All over Age A few hours Age From a few days Age From a few days Weight and Shape 9oz (250g) and Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz and 1lb 2oz Weight and Shape 9oz (250g). and this attractive cheese. ﬂavored with herbs and spices. ﬁrst made in Safed (Hebrew. H. over pears. it is a little spongy but acidity and a hint of salt. TASTING NOTES Velvety with a fresh the baskets. is one of their best. Zfat) in thick. or a mixture and 6in (7cm and 15cm) Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Fresh Milk Ewe and goat Producer Various Producer Various Classiﬁcation Fresh Producer Barkanit Dairy . was one of the ﬁrst in Israel. or grilled basil. nutty The combination of milky sweetness velvety smooth with a mildly lemony balance. Zfatit was labane or labneh is made by draining in 1978. truncated cone Size D. goat. Without doubt. The Barkanit family dairy. while the high in moisture with a silky texture. ewe’s milk. have a lovely sweetness. 3in Milk Cow 265 Milk Cow. 8in (20cm). HOW TO ENJOY Good on cheese boards. pots (150g and 500g). breakfast or served with olive oil. with smoked meats. the range of cheeses made increased. MouCo ColoRouge Le Petit Chevre Bleu Oakdale Gouda Queso de Mano Monet San Juaquin Gold UTAH COLORADO Cornelia. Jorge Mt. “America’s Dairyland. across the United States. Alaska Pleasant Valley Dairy Mutschli CANADA Vache de Vashon Appel Farms Cheddar UNITED Golden Glen Creamery Mozzarella. lush pastures and ideal climate for milk production. with Spanish-. Tulare Cannonball NEVADA Hawaii Point Reyes Original Blue. George Ashed Tomette Délice de la Vallée. Nowadays.” with its vast. particularly in Wisconsin. Swiss-. there are hundreds of factories and large producers creating copies of the European classics alongside hundreds of artisan cheesemakers making cheeses as unique and original as the makers and the landscape. Dutch-. Tam. . and Italian-style cheeses all gaining popularity. Barely Buzzed Mezzo Secco. Taupinière Bellwether Farms Crescenza. English-. St. It wasn’t until the mid-1800s that commercial production of cheese began. Andante Dairy Picolo. STATES Montasio Seastack Pine Stump Crottin MEXICO Cayuse Mountain Goat Creamery Subblime Grand Queso SOUTH AMERICA Steamboat Island Beechers Flagship Reserve THE Goat Farm Gouda Alpine Lakes Creamy Bleu AMERICAS Two Faced Blue Peccato WASHINGTON Larzac Alsea Acre Fromage Blanc Up in Smoke OREGON MONTANA NORTH ALASKA DAKOTA Ferns Edge Goatzarella Goat Dairy Tumalo Tomme Ancient Heritage Scio Bleu Age Rogue Pondhopper River Blue Smokey Blue CANADA Cheese SOUTH Elk Mountain IDAHO DAKOTA GULF OF ALASKA WYOMING Sierra Nevada Cream Cheese Petit Marcel Yerba Santa Dairy Fresca NEBRASKA St. As more European settlers arrived. Pozo Tomme Red Hawk Midcoast Teleme Humbolt Fog UNITED STATES HAWAII Surﬁng Goat CALIFORNIA Monterey Jack OF AMERICA O’AHU Dairy Quark KAUA’I Bubalus Bubalis Mozzarella di Bufala MAUI Winchester Super Aged Gouda Big Island Feta NEW MEXICO PACIFIC ARIZONA PACIFIC OCEAN HAWAII OCEAN TEXAS THE AMERICAS USA Cheesemaking in North America began when the early settlers in the 17th century brought with them the skills of dairy farming and preserving milk in the form of butter and cheese. French-. VERMONT Winnimere Cabot Clothbound Grafton Cheddar NEW Coupole HAMPSHIRE Bourrée Blythedale Farm Camembert Tarentaise Soft Wheel. Trader Lake Cedar Hubbardston Blue R&R Cheddar NEW HAMPSHIRE Kunik WISCONSIN American Grana Battenkill Brebis MASSACHUSETTS Ocooch Mountain Ewe’s Blue Great Hill Blue Mona Alpine Bad Axe NEW YORK RHODE ISLAND Big Woods Blue Cave Aged Marisa MICHIGAN Green Peppercorn Chevre . Tarentaise Twig Farm Square Cheese Vermont Ayr Ascutney Mountain Cheese NEW YORK West West Blue Dorset Vermont Shepherd MASSACHUSETTS MAINE City of Ships MINNESOTA VERMONT Rosemary’s Waltz. DOC. Constant Bliss. KENTUCKY Grayson Awe Brie NORTH CAROLINA TENNESSEE OKLAHOMA Clemson Blue ARKANSAS Belle Chèvre SOUTH CAROLINA ALABAMA GEORGIA ATLANTIC OCEAN Blanca Bianca. Chèvre in Blue Triple Cream Wheel Hooligan Pleasant Ridge Reserve Bleu Mont Cheddar Eden CONNECTICUT Gruyère Surchoix Grand Queso Bridgewater Round Tumbleweed IOWA PENNSLYVANIA 5 Spoke Creamery Browning Gold Telford Reserve NEW JERSEY Maytag Blue OHIO Frisian Farms Mature Gouda INDIANA Mountain Top Bleu DELAWARE ILLINOIS WEST Huckleberry Blue Old Kentucky Tome. or PDO cheeses Produced only here 200 km Produced throughout the region . Brigid’s Abbey. VIRGINIA Wabash Cannonball MARYLAND Dirt Lover Everona Piedmont KANSAS VIRGINIA MISSOURI Appalachian. DOP. LOUISIANA Thomasville Tomme Hoja Santa MISSISSIPPI Hopelessly Bleu GULF OF MEXICO N FLORIDA Key 200 miles ★ AOC. PGI. VERMONT MAINE Shelburne Cheddar Vaquero Blue Bayley Hazen Blue. Key ★ AOC. and ewe’s milk. led Canadians to discover and voice their ARCTIC OCEAN pride in their country’s exceptional cheeses. immigrants from Europe. ISLAND PACIFIC OCEAN Le Cru des Erables Dragon’s NEW Breath Blue NOVA BRUNSWICK Seven-Year-Old Orange Cheddar SCOTIA Bleu Bénédictin Le Cabanon Prestige Piacere Oka Classique N Raclette de Compton au Poivre 500 miles Comfort Cream 500 km ATLANTIC OCEAN . CANADA Canada’s cheese history dates back to 1635. and even India brought with them their favorite recipes. goat’s. PGI. who used cow’s. Throughout the centuries. DOC. The renaissance of artisan cheesemakers. when French colonists ﬁrst produced cheese. DOP. COLUMBIA La Sauvagine SASKAT. which reﬂects increasing consumption. the Middle East. Nearly 200 cheese companies exist today. Until the 1990s. adding diversity and complexity to the variety of cheeses. most cheeses were made on small farms for local consumption or in huge factories that produced blocks of strong cheddar. ONTARIO Baby Blue Old Grizzly CHEWAN Le Délice des Appalaches Harvest Moon Le Cendré des Prés Allegretto VANCOUVER PRINCE Le Sabot de Blanchette ISLAND EDWARD La Barre du Jour. or PDO cheeses Produced only here Produced throughout the region BEAUFORT SEA BA FF IN BA Y YUKON TERRITORY NUNAVUT LABRADOR SEA NORTHWEST TERRITORIES NEWFOUNDLAND QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS CANADA HUDSON BAY NEWFOUNDLAND PRODUCED QUÉBEC THROUGHOUT AND LABRADOR ALBERTA THE COUNTRY Avonlea Clothbound Cheddar Cheddar Curds Sieur de Duplessis Le Paillasson de I’isle d’Orléans BRITISH MANITOBA Bouquetin de Portneuf. or PDO cheeses AMERICA CARIBBEAN SEA Produced only here Produced throughout the region GUYANA VENEZUELA SURINAME FRENCH GUIANA COLUMBIA ECUADOR SOUTH N AMERICA PERU BRAZIL BOLIVIA PACIFIC OCEAN PARAGUAY Queijo Minas Requeijão Cremoso URUGUAY 800 miles CHILE 800 km ARGENTINA PRODUCED THROUGHOUT THE COUNTRY Sardo ATLANTIC OCEAN . PRODUCED however. DOC. Queso Fresco Key CENTRAL ★ AOC. Queso Blanco. Due to the inﬂuence of Spanish. DOP. Many Mexican cheeses have Spanish inﬂuences. who introduced cattle. Portuguese. PGI. Queso Anejo. and Italian immigrants. and sheep to Mexico. MEXICO The history of Mexican cheese can be traced back to 16th-century Spanish conquistadors. MEXICO GULF OF SOUTH AMERICA On a continent famous for beef rather than MEXICO dairy. goats. the numerous acres of natural grazing were ﬁnally put to THROUGHOUT THE COUNTRY use in making cheese an important part of the diet and economy. production of cheese has until recently been limited. but some mimic Portuguese and Italian styles. along with the agricultural practices required for their successful husbandry. As the cheese ages. more complex and ﬁrm. organic cheese made from rich. not grating. organic Producers Alsea Acre Producer BelGioioso Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Hawthorne Valley Farm . that are matured on wooden shelves in supple texture and buttery. Today experience of what it means to be environment to create European-style they have over 27 cheeses and are “stewards of the land. Enjoy makes a perfect snack.” Based on Rudolf cheeses year-round. 8in (20cm) 270 wheel Milk Goat Milk Cow Size D. a group of educators. Wisconsin Age Regular 6–8 months. Pair with a with a chilled glass of Roussanne. THE AMERICAS TASTING NOTES A rinded. 141⁄2in (37cm). mountain-style alongside hints of citrus and pine nut. drum Weight and Shape 8–22lb (3. Blanc In 1979. roasted with age. Errico Auricchio left the family and artisans decided to buy a farm The mild Oregon climate provides the cheese company and set up BelGioioso and offer urban children a hands-on Alsea Acre family farm with the ideal to create quality Italian cheeses. Pair with a strong beer or too sharp white. USA Ghent. H. consistent winners at the American Steiner’s concept of biodynamic farming. tubs Weight and Shape 70lb (32kg). its taste on the palate. HOW TO ENJOY Eat on its own or use for mild. younger red wine or a dry.000 children. New York USA Alsea. and toasted crostini. HOW TO ENJOY It melts superbly and almonds. TASTING NOTES The pure goat’s milk is a Parmesan-style cheese made using ﬂavors arrive with a zesty fresh taste. HOW TO ENJOY Sprinkle over fresh salad sweet. nutty ﬂavor that intensiﬁes greens with green grapes. your favorite red.6–10kg).USA Alpine Alsea Acre Fromage American Grana In 1972. Cheese Society Awards. raw milk. Hard and grainy with a becomes nutty. mellow taste special caves. gathered from local farms. Size No size Size D. American Grana it has hosted more than 13. Oregon USA Green Bay. H. farmers. sweet The ﬁnish is a complex and creamy TASTING NOTES Made in huge rounds golden milk. 9–12in (23–30cm). 4in (10cm) Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Hard Milk Cow. Aged 12-plus Age From a few days Age 18–24 months months Weight and Shape 8oz (225g). 5kg) wheel Weight and Shape 5lb (2. 2in (5cm). H. located in the Handmade at Appel Family’s Farm in Andante Dairy are inspired by the mountainous southwest of Virginia. cow’s milk. sharp to extra sharp. HOW TO ENJOY Appalachian melts well. 3 months.Andante Dairy Picolo Appalachian Appel Farms Cheddar The cheesemakers at California’s Meadow Creek Dairy. USA Petaluma. and bacon. paired with a ﬁne Pilsner. a spicy ﬁnish. Also available with garlic and dill. silage grown on the farm. French tomme (see pp89–91). which they sell TASTING NOTES Made with fresh farm TASTING NOTES The ﬂavor is very delicate in their farm store. This luxurious traditional European cheeses. black HOW TO ENJOY Drizzle wedges of Picolo making it the perfect cooking cheese. They also make feta. Washington State using the cheddaring various musical tempos of the draws inspiration from various technique of authentic English cheddar cheesemaking process. H. wheel Size D. Picolo has a pleasantly and raw with strong vegetal notes and tart and sweet taste inspired by spring. the ﬂavor is robust enough to a sweet baguette and a glass of serve the cheese on its own. 2in (5cm) Size D. Virginia USA Ferndale. H. 9in (23cm). the ﬂavors go from mild to USA the mouth. California USA Galax. Washington Age 2–4 weeks Age 60 days Age 3–6 months Weight and Shape 41⁄2oz (125g). and yogurt. (see p178–79). 21⁄2in (6cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow 271 Classiﬁcation Soft white Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Hard Producers Andande Dairy Producers Meadow Creek Dairy Producers Appel Farms . The milk comes from a triple-cream cheese combines Jersey Appalachian broadly resembles a large herd of cows fed on grass and corn milk and crème fraîche. 10in (25cm). with citrus honey and accompany with However. pepper. a bit like raw onion. Gouda. The texture is dense and TASTING NOTES Aged a minimum of When properly aged. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. macaroni and cheese. it melts in chewy with a musty strong aroma. round Weight and Shape 10lb (4. HOW TO ENJOY Excellent in a homemade sparkling Prosecco.25kg). Kentucky Age 6–10 months Age 2–4 weeks Age 60 days Weight and Shape 10lb (4. crunchy. roots. or feeds. THE AMERICAS TASTING NOTESLoosely based on alpine disc has a ﬁrm yet ﬂaky texture. sour ﬁnish. piped fresh from TASTING NOTES The striking ash-covered the milking barn for processing. In fact. a bourbon and fresh pear slices good hoppy beer. USA Hartland. Ascutney Mountain is not cream-white center that has a subtle TASTING NOTES The cheese is ripened quite as dense but still has a ﬁrm goaty taste and nutty overtones. The mild initial ﬂavor develops conceals a golden interior that has toward a pineapple-like sweet and HOW TO ENJOY Match with a hearty a silky texture and robust ﬂavor. HOW TO ENJOY In honor of its Kentucky HOW TO ENJOYThe sweet taste favors a sweet baguettes. and some are the perfect marriage to serve savory chutney. 15in (38cm). They produce and Nubian dairy goats on their farm the ﬁrst Brie made within the United two raw milk cheeses from a small just north of the town of Willits in States to be produced using raw milk. The farm uses no Mendocino County. disc Weight and Shape 2lb (900g). for 60 days. made using raw milk. herd of Jersey cows. European cheesemakers. Cabernet. Awe Brie is agricultural products. all of the farm’s cheeses are chemical fertilizers. California USA Austin.5kg). alongside a cheese board of Awe Brie. Its snow-white exterior texture. La Mancha. California. like an IPA. wheel Weight and Shape 2oz (60g). H. Ana and Gilbert Cox have From a farm located in the rolling hills The Cobb Hill cheesemakers are part of been making award-winning cheese of Kentucky and inﬂuenced by Western a community of 23 households making from their herd of Alpine. 5in (12cm) Size Various Size Various 272 Milk Cow Milk Goat Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Soft white Producers Cobb Hill Cheese Producer Shamrock Artisan Goat Cheese Producer Kenny’s Farmhouse Cheese . and serve with a seasonal fresh fruit platter and warm. Ascutney Mountain Ashed Tomette Awe Brie Cheese Since 1976. Vermont USA Willits. with a cheeses. wheel Size D. additives. caramel. to the incredible amount of research Buzzed is aged in caves on Utah blue from April to September. Utah USA Shushan. The result: and training they have undergone as spruce. HOW TO ENJOY This is ideal paired with a HOW TO ENJOY Serve with fresh bread or HOW TO ENJOY Complemented well by sturdy. aged. with just cheese from a pure Ayrshire herd only ﬁnely ground with French lavender 2 sheep.1–5kg). 9in (23cm) Size D. and tastes of Brazil nuts. 3in (7. while the cheese’s ﬁnish is butterscotch. and mixed with oil to suspend grazes on pastures of clovers.Barely Buzzed Battenkill Brebis Bayley Hazen Blue Hand-rubbed with a blend of South Karen Weinberg and husband Paul The Kehlers have been producing American and Indonesian coffee beans Borghard began in 1990. 6in (15cm). H.8kg). and coffee. 5–6in (12–15cm) Size D. Hazen Blue delivers a complex ﬂavor. soups. Barely wild oregano. H. 10in (25cm). crusty whole-wheat bread. USA cheese with a nutty ﬂavor. they strive for perfection. Weight and Shape 6lb (2. Bayley TASTING NOTES A smooth cheddar-style a rind ﬂecked with natural bacteria. New York USA Greensboro. Today their herd of 500 since 2002. and cattails. the rub and Supple and dense with herbaceous The blue is upfront and slightly sweet Jersey milk impart hints of notes when young. long and creamy. grilled or grated on salads. Its unusual name comes award-winning cheeses. or Port or sweet wines. with relatively dry blue cheese. but the complexity and buds. Pair with a light beer. part of a cheese board. courtesy of a contest held by Beehive Cheese Company in 2007. TASTING NOTES This Basque-style raw TASTING NOTES A medium-strong and milk cheese is cloth-wrapped.7kg).5cm) Milk Ewe Milk Cow 273 Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Blue Classiﬁcation Flavor-added Producer 3 Corner Field Farm Producer Jasper Hill Farm Producer Beehive Cheese Company . Vermont Age 3–4 months Age 4–18 months Age 4–6 months Weight and Shape 9–11lb (4. it is sweet peppery. drum wheel Size D. sophistication of their products speaks the dry ingredients in the rub. 8in (20cm). timothy. USA Uintah. it is best served as pasta. round Weight and Shape 4lb (1. H. fescue. with bold. Washington USA Elkmont. and top.2kg). Beechers Flagship Belle Chèvre Bellwether Farms Reserve Located in Elkmont. 8in (20cm). along with your favorite beer or serve plain with almonds. York. savory notes and a sharp. yeasty ﬁnish. and restaurant in the heart of New fresh goat cheeses. Kurt Beecher followed his Fromagerie Belle Chèvre is among This cheese is modeled on the famous passion for artisan cheeses and opened relatively few cheesemakers in the Italian cheese Crescenza (see p116). Eight years later. 12in (30cm). L. Dense.5kg). right down to its traditional square Pike Place Market. Alabama. serve with crunchy fresh baguette. it is aged for at herbaceous ﬁnish. 9in (23cm) Size D. HOW TO ENJOY Marries well with almost any preserve. log Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1. a crisp white wine. California Age 15-plus months Age Fresh Age 1 week Weight and Shape 16lb (7. using the produce of local herds TASTING NOTES Handmade and sent to THE AMERICAS from southern Albany. square Size D. 1in (2. white and high in moisture. USA Seattle. The rich TASTING NOTES A traditionally made with a tangy ﬂavor and a distinct Jersey milk gives it a creamy ﬂavor Cheddar (see pp178–79). Alternatively. Beecher’s shop in the heart of Seattle’s southern United States. TASTING NOTES This traditional French. Alabama USA Petaluma. and perfect for any recipe HOW TO ENJOY Dollop a spoonful of HOW TO ENJOY Serve with a sourdough that calls for fresh chèvre. H. 1⁄2in (1cm) 274 Milk Cow Milk Goat Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Fresh Producer Beechers Handmade Cheese Producer Fromagerie Belle Chèvre Producer Bellwether Farms . cylinder Weight and Shape 8oz (225g). balanced by a pleasant tartness and least 16 months. and pair with a crisp Pinot Blanc. café.5cm). walnuts. but with a twist of California opened a new cheesemaking “kitchen. it is milky style chèvre is very rich and smooth. a robust red. Nonetheless.” than 50 awards over the years for its coastal sea breeze ﬂavor. H. 2in (5cm) Size D. he the creamery has gathered more shape. Crescenza In 2003. market at 1 week of age. homemade apricot compote over the loaf. lingering tang. chewy. including this TASTING NOTES The pleasant slight tang cheese washed with white wine. it develops a strong with toasted whole macadamia nuts. ﬂat wheel Size Various Size D. a retired farrier who Despite losing much of their herd in a Paula Lambert has spent more than shod horses for more than 35 years. The Mozzarella Company was worked in the veterinary ﬁeld. H. a great vintage port. and serve with a chilled cheese deserves to be matched with HOW TO ENJOY Try with dark walnut Kona Brewing Big Wave golden ale. round Weight and Shape 11⁄2lb (675g). 6in (15cm). devastating ﬁre on the farm in 2005.Big Island Feta Big Woods Blue Blanca Bianca Dick Threlfall. Minnesota USA Dallas. but pleasing punch as it matures. milks the and Slow Food groups.2kg). cheese when young. and the the Reads have been slowly rebuilding particular inspiration from her travels machinery. goats and makes the soft cheese. and continue to founded to produce fresh mozzarella. TASTING NOTES Rich and full-ﬂavored. the herd. block Weight and Shape 7lb (3. Hawaii USA Nerstrand. 5in (12cm) Size D. H. freshly picked spinach. Paula’s own creations. 7in (18cm). has a hint of unusual ﬂavors because TASTING NOTES Creamy and mild. The robust and only slightly with sweet ﬂoral tastes. USA Honokaa. Texas Age 3–12 weeks Age 4–6 months Age 2 months Weight and Shape 1lb (450g). 2in (5cm) Milk Goat Milk Ewe Milk Cow 275 Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Blue Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Hawaiian Island Goat Dairy Producer Shepherd’s Way Farms Producer Mozzarella Company . raisin bread and a light beer. having with the help of the local community in Italy. 20 years working with cheese. produce this magniﬁcent raw milk but production now includes many of cheese for blue lovers. While not a salty cheese melts in the mouth like particularly powerful washed-rind HOW TO ENJOY Create a Hawaiian salad milk chocolate. while Heather. drawing focuses on the feta. the tropical vegetation ranging from bamboo yet still complex and surprising for chewy paste ﬁlls the mouth and nose USA shoots to macadamia tree leaves. veterans. it is the goats graze on pastures as well as very approachable for blue-shy tasters. and sweet island HOW TO ENJOY The complexity of this pineapple. . (See p292). but as maturation progresses. the streaks will once again appear through the white. TAM The red or brown streaks and pigments that develop on the rind are gradually covered by the more vigorous white Penicillium mold.THE AMERICAS 276 MT. round Size D. produce these well-regarded cheeses. Vermont Age 12–18 months Age 4 weeks Age 3 months Weight and Shape 8lb (3. typical rich. Wisconsin USA Corinth. H.Bleu Mont Cheddar Blythedale Farm Bourrée Willi Lehner is a second-generation Camembert Dancing Cow Farm began producing cheesemaker who trained in England Becky and Tom Loftus at Blythedale cheese in 2006. The texture is smooth. All his cheeses with the tried-and-true recipe. so that they are then transferred to a custom-built milk from their herd of Jersey cows to can focus on maintaining high milk cave on his property to ripen. quality standards.6kg). 5in (12cm). round Weight and Shape 1lb (450g). They have stuck of ripening over to the experts in cheesemaking facilities. creamy ﬂavor you would rind cheese. 2in (5cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow 277 Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Soft white Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Bleu Mont Dairy Producer Blythedale Farm Producer Dancing Cow Farmstead Cheese . after the cheese is made. Vermont. 1in (2. H. HOW TO ENJOY Savor on its own with HOW TO ENJOY Use to make a great ham some chutney and dried ﬁgs or dates. has a medium-strong ﬂavor with good has a softer and wetter rind. 4in (10cm) Size D. as well as and somewhat sticky on the palate. USA Blue Mounds. 4in (10cm). H. HOW TO ENJOY Bourrée is best served or serve with crackers and Champagne. its aroma is relatively mild USA this handmade clothbound cheddar expect in a Camembert-style cheese. and Camembert sandwich on a baguette. it and ﬂoral. grassy notes and a nice lingering ﬁnish. with a strong ale and some chutney. with a peanut-like ﬂavor that grows more intense as it ﬁnishes.5cm) Size D. TASTING NOTES With a very pleasant and TASTING NOTES While possessing the TASTING NOTES Although it is a washed- tasty element of freshly turned earth. 6in (15cm). a tarter initial ﬂavor. Unlike many artisanal and Switzerland. local certiﬁed organic producers and producing Camembert and Brie-style Steve and Karen Getz hand the job makes cheese off-site at other producers’ cheeses since 1994. He buys milk from Farm in Corinth. using the cellars at Jasper Hill. drum Weight and Shape 8oz (225g). Vermont USA Bridport. have been cheesemakers. rich. round Weight and Shape 12lb (5. and educating and inspiring traditional bandaged cheddar (see with great care and attention. homemade chutney. a beer. dried fruit. with a hint of rounder sour bite. rather than a ﬂoral aroma and a very sweet initial pepper. of lanolin to the ﬁnish. H. a handmade varieties of cheese. but was almost inevitable that it would at Jasper Hill Farm. ﬂavor. Michigan USA Montpelier. its ﬁnish is much natural-rind cheese.4kg). it has a fuller. becomes more savory. 4in (10cm) 278 Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Ewe Classiﬁcation Soft white Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Zingerman’s Producer Cabot Creamery Cooperative Producer Carr Valley Cheese Company . As the ﬂavor develops. ﬂavorsome. The their staff and customers alike. black fruit preserves or quince paste. hearty bread. 4in (10cm) Size D. Vermont USA La Valle. is cave-aged in the cellars majority is made with cow’s milk. it silky feel and taste. when a cooperative of at the helm of this large Wisconsin excellent. Wisconsin Age 4–8 weeks Age 12 months or more Age 6 months Weight and Shape 8oz (225g). and good hearty dark bread.7kg). traditionally 94 local farmers was formed in Vermont. There is a hint mushrooms on the ﬁnish. cylinder Weight and Shape 6lb (2. Bridgewater Round Cabot Clothbound Cave Aged Marisa Zingerman’s has ﬁrmly built its Cabot Creamery can trace its origins Sid Cooke is the master cheesemaker ever-growing reputation on selling back to 1919. fruity Chinon. HOW TO ENJOY Serve simply with some HOW TO ENJOY A star of the cheese board. classic cheddar acidity. 18in (46cm). So it pp178–79). THE AMERICAS TASTING NOTES Initially sweet and TASTING NOTES A dense. medium-ﬁrm. yet crafts each one cheeses. it has an intense and spiked with freshly ground black more savory and heavy. H. which produces dozens of made foods. and a crisp. TASTING NOTES Made with added cream buttery on the palate. Bridgewater Round has a rich. USA Ann Arbor. turn its hand to cheesemaking. and HOW TO ENJOY It is great served with it is complemented by nuts. including a huge range of This raw milk cheese. this one uses ewe’s milk. round Size Various Size D. creamery. 12in (30cm). Big red wines work well. too. MontChevre offers This small producer keeps her business Produced at Clemson University. the Wisconsin and Iowa. H. 4in (10cm) wheel Size D. with milk suppliers in ripening make this worth seeking out. ﬂat disc Size D.7kg). The texture is tight and exceptionally smooth creaminess. outstanding cheeses at great prices local. Their cheeses are entire making and ripening process has natural. or crumbled with other medium-strength cheeses allows it to be paired with both sweet in salads. building to a strong lingering grained and slightly clumpy. the cheese was aged in an abandoned It is the largest goat cheese producer in but the high-quality milk and expert railroad tunnel under Stumphouse North America. TASTING NOTES Highly complex ﬂavors taken place on campus. wines and fruitier reds such as Merlot.Chèvre in Blue City of Ships Clemson Blue Established in 1988. H. medium blue ﬂavor is well balanced ﬁnish of the blue. 4in (10cm) Milk Cow 279 Classiﬁcation Blue Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Blue Producer MontChevre Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Clemson University Producer Hahn’s End . South Carolina Age 2–3 months Age 8 months Age 6 months Weight and Shape 4lb (1. with a faint crunch.8kg). ﬂavors. The herbaceous. USA Belmont. serve it on its own or HOW TO ENJOY Its moderate intensity favorite bread or cracker. and supplying cheese to local outlets. rounded Weight and Shape 2lb (900g). Enjoy with a sweet wine. 10in (25cm). Maine USA Clemson. it yields to herbal and sea-salty TASTING NOTES The texture is medium- stand out against the stark white. Wisconsin USA Phippsburg. but on the crumbly interior. with no additives. HOW TO ENJOY To savor the best of its HOW TO ENJOY Perfect spread on your myriad ﬂavors. buying milk from nearby farms Clemson Blue dates back to 1941. Initially TASTING NOTES The deep purple streaks sweet. 7in (18cm). Its goat’s milk. Mountain.5cm) Milk Goat Size D. derived from the tongue. H. against a buttermilk sweetness. 11in (28cm). is offset by the strong spicy chewy. 1in (2. cover the full range of senses. when while promoting sustainable farming. and mild crackers with gentle textures. drum Weight and Shape 6lb (2. Since the late 1950s. butterscotch ﬁnish that coats the palate it quickly opens up into an USA aromatic character. cylinder Weight and Shape 1lb (450g).5cm) Size D. 2in (5cm) 280 Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Goat Classiﬁcation Soft white Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Producer Jasper Hill Farm Producer Point Reyes Farmstead Producer Vermont Butter and Cheese . 2in (5cm). 2in (5cm). where it is matured in their By 1985 she had formed Vermont cheese is aged just to the US legal washed-rind caves. hides a supple. 3in (7. cheeses. working in France. H. With age. but is mild enough to becomes soft and rich. and which it is made. it holes. and spicy salad greens. USA Greensboro. and Allison Hooper’s cheesemaking journey Revolutionary history and seems delivered to Murray’s Cheese in New began in the 1970s. but not runny. round Weight and Shape 8oz (225g). done for centuries in Europe. dome Size D. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. HOW TO ENJOY Feature on a cheese board HOW TO ENJOY Perfect on a cheese board HOW TO ENJOY Perfect on a cheese board. California USA Bare. Constant Bliss Cornelia Coupole The name comes from American Made at Point Reyes Farmstead. Coupole. serve with Champagne and caviar. typically unavailable in the character. buttery interior with tiny remind you of the goat’s milk from almost popcorn-like ﬂavor. accompanied by or try it in a salad that includes nuts. Here. bringing out the cheese’s hidden award-winning dairy products. a roasted peanut ﬁnish. buttery. Vermont USA Point Reyes Station. H. with other premium cheeses. It has hints of cheese sauce. charm ﬁrst-time goat-cheese tasters. Vermont Age 60 days Age 6 months Age 45 days Weight and Shape 8oz (225g). it has just enough punch to enveloped by the paste’s salty. They now make a variety of glimpse into the world of soft raw milk magic. or with cooked meats. a medium-bodied red or Trappist beer. as the great afﬁneurs have sprinkled with ash. but not stony aroma and slight bitterness with ﬁne white mold. improbably ﬁtting because the York. Even better. almost liquid. THE AMERICAS TASTING NOTES The thin dry rind has a TASTING NOTES The leathery rind. pears. runny. dusted TASTING NOTES Soft and smooth. exhibits all the best United States. H. for the next Butter and Cheese Company with Bob minimum of 60 days and offers a rare few months. 4in (10cm). the cave master works his Reese. qualities of a French-style goat cheese. Taleggio-style cheese with orange-pink to increase understanding of good rind dusted with white mold has a mild farming practices. and gently TASTING NOTES Lightly washed in brine.Dirt Lover Dorset Eden Green Dirt Farm.5cm). creamy. 2in (5cm) Milk Ewe Milk Cow Milk Cow 281 Classiﬁcation Soft white Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Green Dirt Farm Producer Bardwell Farm Producer Sprout Creek Farm . or an aromatic white and a bowl of HOW TO ENJOY This cheese is perfect to Chardonnay. The with a lemony ﬁnish as it matures. serve with cider. rosé.5cm) Size D. crust. ﬂat wheel Size D. from numerous cheeses using milk from its sustainable farming practices. The milk steep slopes to low areas of dense shade own goats and two local Jersey herds. cylinder. 8in (20cm). temperature and pairs well with cider. HOW TO ENJOY Try it with a lightly oaked beer. becoming richer and earthy with a long and full savory ﬁnish. Vermont USA Poughkeepsie. Weight and Shape 2lb (900g). Its supple yellow USA layer of charcoal ash under the white interior is sweet and buttery. fresh walnuts. TASTING NOTES The name refers to the farmyardy aroma. is owned by Sarah was Vermont’s ﬁrst cheese cooperative. Dense. City. 3in (7. H. or a local beer. 14in (35cm). Missouri USA West Pawlet. with a hint of lanolin pungent with a meaty. is produced seasonally. In harmony and water meadows. northwest of Kansas Located in Champlain Valley. the award-winning farmstead cheeses and TASTING NOTES Lightly brine-washed. Ideal for creating with its cheesemaking ventures. New York Age 2–8 weeks Age 60 days Age 3 months Weight and Shape 5oz (140g). round Weight and Shape 8lb (3. this farm also offers educational workshops grass-fed lamb. the dairy Located just an hour north of New York City. H. 2in (5cm) Size D. H.6kg). Now it makes using traditional methods and cope with extremes of weather. beef stock ﬁnish. Missouri. HOW TO ENJOY It opens up at room texture is supple and chewy. Sprout Creek Farm makes a wide Hoffmann and Jacqueline Smith and founded in the 1860s by Consider variety of cheeses from its mixed herd. when young. it has an apple tartness to its ﬂavor. provides a complexity of grazing to Stebbins Bardwell. 1in (2. USA Weston. it is moist is washed in a local Wild Mountain and creamy with pockets of blue-green Oregon beer. Elk Mountain Everona Piedmont Ewe’s Blue The production of this semi-soft cheese The Piedmont region of Virginia is in Located in New York State’s Hudson is based on the method used to make the foothills of the ancient Blue Ridge Valley. with an Elk Mountain Ale. Oregon cheese would be with a savor of HOW TO ENJOY Try it crumbled on top of ﬁg preserves. Old Chatham has grown since European mountain-style cheeses such Mountains. Roquefort (see pp 82–83). USA Rogue River. buttery ﬁnish. wheel Size D. Virginia USA Old Chatham. HOW TO ENJOYA true pairing of this with a smooth. Everona also cheese and yogurt products are widely Oregon. French bread and a glass of Sauternes.7kg). and Dr.5cm) Milk Ewe Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Ewe Classiﬁcation Blue Producer Phoila Farm Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Old Chatham Sheepherding Producer Everona Dairy Company . This operated a full-time sheep farm here dairies in the United States. H.6kg). Oregon USA Rapidan. saltiness than its French counterpart. 9in (23cm).” THE AMERICAS TASTING NOTES It is best eaten when it versions of Piedmont.8kg). it has a buttery ﬂavor and ﬁrm texture. H. rind it is warm yellow with a nutty more mineral-like character and less sweetness along with even ﬂoral tones. 3in (7. alongside her farm-based of sophisticated and well-executed Mountain. produces the ewe’s-milk cheese Stony available throughout the United States. and a wine. or enjoy it simply. New York Age 6 months Age: 3–6 months Age 6–8 months Weight and Shape 8lb (3. Merlot along with slices of fresh pear. This cheese washed cheese. 41⁄2in (11cm) (2. wheel Weight and Shape 11⁄2lb (675g) and 6lb Weight and Shape 4lb (1. 9in (23cm). buttery notes. Man. Pat Elliot has 1993 to become one of the largest sheep as Tomme des Pyrénées (see p90). TASTING NOTES Similar in style to has aged for six months. and the paste has a very TASTING NOTES Beaneath the brown-gray mold and fruity. near the Rogue River in family medical practice. Its range American version is named after Elk since 1992. as well as a variety of “infused. 8in (20cm). H. wheel Size D. where it is made. Pride of Bacchus. 2in (5cm) 282 Milk Goat Size D. Enjoy the pair with HOW TO ENJOYPairs with a hoppy beer or salad greens. Oregon USA Grafton. TASTING NOTES Dense. 5in (12cm) Milk Cow Milk Goat Milk Cow 283 Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Frisian Farms Producer Fraga Farm Goat Cheese Producer Grafton Village Cheese . young. It also the family pets and all know their which promotes Vermont’s rural is located just outside Pella.1kg). milk from a single. wheel Size D. 101/2in (27cm). mature. a Farms for City Kids Foundation. a robust fresh grapes. red is its perfect accompaniment. and an annual tulip TASTING NOTES Made with vegetarian aged in Grafton’s own caves for a festival. melts superbly. Farm. founded in 1892 by a Making farmstead Gouda in the Dutch the organic milk for this supple. H. Try it on fresh herbed HOW TO ENJOY Savor with a Riesling. and wheat crackers. Goatzarella is one of several communities. it grates and more intense and savory. 3in (7.Frisian Farms Mature Goatzarella Grafton Cheddar Gouda Fifty Alpine and Nubian goats provide The Grafton Co-op. USA Oskaloosa.compact and TASTING NOTES Each golden wheel is sunshine yellow from the milk. H. grass-fed herd from including traditional windmills. It is historical village. HOW TO ENJOY Superb for cooking. it has ﬁlled with nutty ﬂavors and fruity HOW TO ENJOY For cooking rather than grassy yet sweet overtones that become essences. Their “Queen of Quality” predominantly Dutch community that goat’s-milk cheeses made by Fraga clothbound Grafton Cheddar uses Jersey has preserved its Dutch culture. Iowa. Vermont Age 6–8 weeks minimum Age 2–6 weeks Age 6–18 months Weight and Shape 20lb (9.5cm) Size D. 14in (35cm). including a chèvre and a feta. 6in (15cm) Size D. meadow ﬂavor. foccacia with tomatoes and olive oil. and smoked versions. and ﬁnishes with a USA silky texture on the palate. commitment to its Dutch ancestry. it is rich in cream with a grassy minimum of six months. H. square Weight and Shape 20lb (9kg). is now part of the tradition is part of Frisian Farms’ mozzarella-style cheese. a names. The goats are Grafton-based Windham Foundation. The Gouda is available in rennet. wheel Weight and Shape 8oz (225g). for the cheese board. 9in (23cm). elastic group of dairy farmers. with a sweet cream ﬁnish. paired with an Oregon Pinot Noir. Iowa USA Sweet Home. 800ft (850m). 5in (12cm) Size D. 2in (5cm) Size D. while the texture is gummy appropriately strong vegetal ﬂavor. square Weight and Shape 8lb (3. with aromatic Riesling or Viognier. it is just salty enough to HOW TO ENJOY Grand Queso is a terriﬁc complement the natural sweetness. Wisconsin USA Galax. USA Monroe. but not heavy.25kg). Although Grand Queso great air and water quality. such HOW TO ENJOY Delightfulon its own or in Or serve it grated over bruschetta as crackers with black pepper. Virginia USA Marion. punch. 7in (18cm). Massachusetts Age 6 months Age 4 months Age 6 months Weight and Shape) 5lb (2. along with surrounding farms that is neither is reminiscent of Spanish Manchego.6kg). H. 6in (15cm). ﬁrm texture holds up well on the palate. The it has its own unique ﬂavor proﬁle. option in Spanish and Mexican recipes HOW TO ENJOY Grayson’s intense ﬂavor calling for a hard full-ﬂavored cheese. that pasteurized nor homogenized. pair topped with sun-dried tomatoes. but Virginia. drum Size D. results in exceptionally high milk quality. 4in (10cm) 284 Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Blue Producer Roth Käse USA Producers Meadow Creek Dairy Producer Great Hill Dairy . or rye a salad with apples and bacon. H. Tangy with a good blue and it ﬁnishes surprisingly cleanly. demands strong ﬂavors to match. ecologically responsible farming. at an altitude of 2. bread with onion conﬁt. resulting cheese has won numerous awards since its launch in 1996. H. The dairy purchases rather to utilize the traditions and According to the cheesemakers. than a generation. rounded TASTING NOTES This intensely strong- taste and aroma that is sweet and very smelling washed cheese possesses an TASTING NOTES It has a surprisingly tight buttery. Its texture that opens on the palate like and slightly oily. it is the Jersey and Holstein milk from several technology. wheel Weight and Shape 8lb (3. 9in (23cm).6kg). Grand Queso Grayson Great Hill Blue The Roths’ stated mission when they Meadow Creek Dairy is located in the This old dairy farm located south of began producing cheese in the United Blue Ridge Mountains of southwest Boston has been in the family for more States was not to import cheese. THE AMERICAS TASTING NOTES It has a full. cool butter. They make the cheese business for generations. H. What makes it USA mild green peppercorn ﬂavor. direction. HOW TO ENJOY Delicate yet complex. wheel Weight and Shape 8oz (225g). Alternatively. but with distinctive character. but wrapped York City’s great farmer’s markets. brick Weight and Shape 16lb (7. but the lengthy ﬁnish turns natural woody sassafras ﬂavor that to a meaty saltiness. Wisconsin USA Dallas. serve with a really bring out the ﬂavor of the hoja selection of dry salamis and Riesling.3kg). The family had been in developed an exciting range of Italian- international awards. This is a fresh cheese regular appearances at many of New and the result is an American Gruyère similar to a French Banon. original. USA Pine Plains. by the an aroma of dried apples with a hint of and clean in the mouth. try this with some Chardonnay. 4in (10cm) Size D. New York USA Monroe.35kg). fondue. 12in (30cm). 11⁄2in (4cm) Milk Goat Milk Cow Milk Goat 285 Classiﬁcation Soft white Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Fresh Producers Coach Farm Producer Roth Käse USA Producer Mozzarella Company . 2in (5cm). but to greens and ripe tomatoes. a lemony sourness that is perfectly TASTING NOTES The pale white cheese has it has a very ﬁne curd that feels light accented. The mustiness. comes off the leaf . TASTING NOTES Firm and crumbly. that is of similar quality to the Swiss in the Mexican hoja santa leaf. santa. inspired cheeses. H. Texas Age 30 days Age 9–19 months Age 4 weeks Weight and Shape 3lb (1. it is ideal with a summer salad of fresh HOW TO ENJOY The perfect choice for HOW TO ENJOY Delicious on toast. it has TASTING NOTES A fresh goat’s-milk cheese. The ﬂavor continues in that unique from other fresh chèvre is the ﬁnish is delicate and clean. 5in (12cm) Size D. 14in (35cm).Green Peppercorn Gruyère Surchoix Hoja Santa Chevre The Roth family came to the United Paula Lambert has been making Coach Farm has acquired a reputation States from Switzerland in 1990 to mozzarella at her creamery near for outstanding quality over the last capitalize on the great milk produced Dallas for more than 20 years and has few years and has won numerous in Wisconsin. drum Size L. H. but not overpowered. colloquially. Producer Various . colorful. mushroomy aroma What is not in doubt is that David and a sweet creamy taste that hints of Jack was the ﬁrst person to hazelnuts. or Dry. Aged for 7–12 months or longer. and sharp as a Dry Jack itself. the process remains Administration in 1955 to encompass all the varieties then on the largely the same. brittle texture and a deep full-bodied tang that is sweet and nutty. Franciscan monks in the 1700s who Meanwhile. required the application of pressure Today. and has an earthy. with a citrus tang. creamy Carmel Valley is known to have cheese known as Queso Blanco País created a similar cheese that from Spain. then knotted. using milk from his 14 dairy ranches pimientos. “Jack. or grated on pasta. It It was the shrewd and less-than. HOW TO ENJOY The supple texture of Young Jack is Drums of Dry Jack mature on wooden racks of perfect for grilling.” market. Dry Age 1 week–12 months Jack is great for sauces. Monterey Jack is one of the from a device called a “housejack. however. the difference is market. and it is said TASTING NOTES Young Jack is measured and placed in square pieces of that he stole the idea of Queso del very mild with a lactic taste. Young. Mezzo Secco is a ﬁrmer fresh Jack. Monterey Jack A CLOSER LOOK There are numerous Jacks on the Also known as Monterey Sonoma Jack or. In the mid-1800s. be found in most supermarkets. Dry Jack is usually aged for 7–12 months. THE AMERICAS País and started major production sometimes ﬂavored with spices. and the characters behind the story are as smooth. or in numerous Mexican-style dishes.5kg) drum soufﬂés. however. it was the help feed her family of 15 children. A debate has raged over who actually created Monterey in the maturing Jack. It ﬁrst appeared in the 1930s as an alternative to Parmesan. snacking. according to research called Queso del País door-to-door to by Wendy Moss in 1966. tacos. cheese as Jacks’ Cheese. The best example is the Dry Jack made 286 by Ig Vella of Vella Cheeses—a legend in his own lifetime.” He best-loved American cheeses and can named it Pedrazzi’s Jack Cheese. It is cheesecloth. The in the 1890s. omelets. Doña Juana Cota manufacture the cheese on a large de Boronda made and sold a cheese scale. who laid claim to whey has been drained. accounts for about 10 percent of all popular local businessman David cheese production in California. and ﬂavored ones are Monterey Jack was given its ofﬁcial title by the Food and Drug gaining in popularity. Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb (2. it has a deep yellow-gold interior with a grainy. the curds are carefully Monterey Jack cheese. Dry Jack needs Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Semi soft (Monterey Jack). Domingo Pedrazzi of brought the recipe for a soft. the depth of one of California’s Hard (Dry Jack) great red wines. via Mexico. MEASURING THE CURDS Once the Jacks. Jacks marketed the Farmstead version is almost runny. Mezzo Secco. a cellar. Young Jack is perfect USA California with a cool beer or cider. or jalapeño peppers. Size Various and enchiladas. ready for shaping. irregular holes. SHAPING It takes great skill to shape the 10lb (5kg) mass of curds into a uniform ball without squeezing out too much whey. smooth. rubbery with small which may be waxed. cocoa. the cheese is soft and supple and ready for consumption as Young Jack. halved . USA A whole young Monterey Jack. which ensures that the cheese dries out slowly over the next seven or so months. Young Jack is a pale The long soaking in ivory color. 287 A Young Jack. MATURING The cheeses are aged for about ﬁve weeks until their edges ﬁrm up. and barely formed rind. mild. More mature varieties are hand-coated with a special mixture of vegetable oil. and very brine creates a thin. and pepper. At this stage. Massachusetts USA Champaign. They have a herd of about farmers’ market.5cm) Size D. is made by Mark Gillman. round Weight and Shape 5lb (2. teacher turned cheesemaker. and ﬁnish. ﬁrm but moist. it is bold and beautiful palate. and a mild blue ﬁnish. 6in (15cm). which are soaked antibiotic-free Jersey cows. aged blue- intense and slightly yeasty.5cm). school Westﬁeld Farm has been producing founded Prairie Fruit Farm in 2003. and types since 1971. Wes Jarrell and Leslie Cooperband cheese. a good-quality Belgian ale. fresh ﬁgs. Connecticut USA Hubbardston. HOW TO ENJOY Excellent melted on toast HOW TO ENJOY A very approachable blue. a washed-rind basket-molded Now operated by the Kilmoyers. Illinois Age 60 days Age 30–40 days Age 2–3 months Weight and Shape 1lb (450g). 3in (7. with mushroom-like ﬂavors willed goats. H. Cato Corner keeps its Hubbardston is a surface-ripened blue 70 goats. H. USA Colchester. the outside rather than internally. It is sold with or as it ages the blue is overlaid with a without them.25kg). the texture TASTING NOTES Verysoft and creamy. its aroma is TASTING NOTES Raw-milk. and it melts on the pungent. 5in (12cm) 288 Milk Cow Milk Goat Milk Goat Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Blue Classiﬁcation Blue Producer Cato Corner Farm Producer Westﬁeld Farm Producer Prairie Fruit Farm . sizes. 1in (2. wheel Weight and Shape 8oz (225g). Huckleberry is wrapped in own herd of about 40 hormone. 3in (7. in appearance. drum Size D. or cider. Hooligan Hubbardston Blue Huckleberry Blue Hooligan.and cheese. veined cheese with a natural rind. it is not particularly Named after one of the more strong- from the rind. H.5cm) Size D. and a sweet white wine. with a slight grittiness sometimes runny. but in pear brandy. 51⁄2in (14cm). HOW TO ENJOY Have it with a glass of with a little tomato or on its own with it works well with whole grain crackers. the bright blue mold grows on sycamore leaves. with a creamy sweet ﬁnish. and most pungent cheese. who is a high-quality goat’s-milk cheeses in all with a focus on organic and sustainable regular at New York’s Union Square shapes. THE AMERICAS TASTING NOTES Cato Corner’s best-known distinctive gunmetal gray rind. pear brandy. farming. ﬂavor. butter if the cheese has dried a bit. 2in (5cm) cone Size D.5cm) H. top. base. TASTING NOTES Each batch is handmade hides a ﬁne layer of black ash covering. smooth texture.5cm) Classiﬁcation Soft white Milk Goat Milk Goat Producer Nettle Meadow Goat Farm Classiﬁcation Soft white Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Producer Cypress Grove Chèvre Producer Monteillet Fromagerie . almonds and white wine. with baked pears. 4in (10cm). Larzac Triangle are two of her iconic creations. H. glass of Champagne. round Size D.25kg). New York USA Dayton. It has a creamy. Washington Age 6–8 weeks Age 2–4 weeks Age 4–6 weeks Weight and Shape 11lb (5kg) and 5lb Weight and Shape 10oz (300g). USA Arcata. in addition to a Washington State’s Walla Walla Valley led her to become one of the best-known multitude of other farm animals that lies the home of the ﬁrst farmstead artisan cheesemakers in the United have been rescued or retired over the ewe’s-milk dairy using recipes based on States. 3in (7.Humboldt Fog Kunik Larzac Mary Keehn’s search in the 1970s for Nettle Meadow is currently home to Along the Touchet River in southwest a healthy source of milk for her family more than 100 goats. This cheese is an unusual cheeses from southern France. and paired Pair with Pinot Gris or a wheat beer. wood ash through the center. 2in Milk Goat with cow’s milk cream Size D. and olive oil. round Weight and Shape 8oz (225g). Humboldt Fog and Bermuda years. shine and cry out for an accompanying golden beets. where HOW TO ENJOY Larzac is perfect sliced HOW TO ENJOY Serve with fresh salad the sweetness of the cheese will really over fresh butterleaf greens. 8in (20cm). 41⁄4in (11cm). honeylike cheese that has a mouth feel to achieve a delicate soft texture. aging that highlights the fresh sweet and a taste that is reminiscent of goat milk ﬂavors in each cheese. California USA Warrensburg. its pure white crusty mold TASTING NOTES A remarkably sweet. truncated (2. roasted greens. 289 (5cm). HOW TO ENJOY Kunik is perfectly suited to very dark breads such as rye. 4in (10cm). then which is present inside the cheese as ranging from custard when fresh to cellared for a month to complete the USA well. H. 31⁄4in (9. TASTING NOTES Named after the local ocean fog. with a crisp Pilsner beer. or as a dessert. triple-cream blend of goat’s milk and has an attractive thin layer of ﬁne cream from the farm’s Jersey cows. 2in (5cm). Marin French. California USA Newton. 21⁄2in (5. it is still young. HOW TO ENJOY This is always a great HOW TO ENJOY Spread on buttered toast HOW TO ENJOY In addition to service on choice for picnics.1–5kg).8kg). dense golden interior has a rich and and delicate ﬁne blue veining. with a subtle. It was ﬁrst created within California’s Sonoma County. Le Petit Chèvre Bleu Maytag Blue Mezzo Secco One of the oldest continuously Certainly one of the most famous Mezzo Secco is not as hard or dry as producing cheese companies in the and oldest original American cheeses. 11in (28cm). it always remains perishable foods were stored in “ice bleached white in appearance.5cm). or of California Pinot Noir. cheese is cave-aged. this sturdy cheese is over grilled lamb burgers with a glass preserves and fresh pear juice. despite high demand. produced by hand as it was when it in the 1920s. enhanced by a black creamy texture. California Age 30 days or more Age 4 months Age 4–6 months Weight and Shape 4oz (115g). H. yields to a lemon-tart sweet-sourness. 4in (13⁄4cm) Size D. white pepper taste. H. a good balance between rich ﬂavors Roquefort but made with cow’s milk. with a full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon. mild Initially creamy and steely blue. USA Petaluma. this THE AMERICAS triple-cream Brie-style cheese strikes TASTING NOTES A blur similar to TASTING NOTES Mezzo Secco’s supple. Size D. 4in (10cm) wheel 290 Milk Goat Milk Cow Size D. 4in (10cm) Classiﬁcation Soft white Classiﬁcation Blue Milk Cow Producer Marin French Cheese Company Producer Maytag Dairy Farms Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Vella Cheese Company . drum Weight and Shape 9–11lb (4. Although the advent of refrigeration. 7in (18cm). but is ﬁrmer than a Unites States. round Weight and Shape 4lb (1. It has a Maytag has an enigmatic ﬂavor. or pair perfect for salads. when each of its cheeses. or slice and serve it in the morning. in the days before the shows a strong French inﬂuence in was ﬁrst made in 1941. nutty full ﬂavor. even baked into fruit-based desserts. melted on steak. Iowa USA Sonoma. soft Jack. it pepper and vegetable oil coating. Monterey Jack. and savor with apricot the cheese board. H. located yet. boxes” and cheese had to fend for itself. TASTING NOTES Aged for 30 days. overtones that develop into complex caramel from the ewe’s milk along with and spicy notes. smooth texture is the TASTING NOTES Hand-ladled to create coating. TASTING NOTES This fresh and clean TASTING NOTES Covered with an edible chèvre’s soft. 3in (7. ColoRouge is rubbed sheep dairy products. tawny port and halved fresh red and or a sweet wine. H. the French chèvre. H. and serve with a rich and serve with an American Pinot Noir fresh salad and a crisp Pinot Grigio. green grapes. USA River Falls. red-orange rind with its distinctive few products under its own label. result of the gentle handling of the a soft and creamy texture beneath Its ﬁrm yet moist texture is crumbly and fresh goat’s milk. round Size D.5cm). it makes a stunning centerpiece for a HOW TO ENJOY Spread ColoRouge over HOW TO ENJOY Grateover pasta.5cm).4kg). 5in (12cm) Size D. it is aged for around 6 months. 1in (2. or serve with a garden.5cm). 14in (35. Wisconsin USA Pescadero. Colorado Age 6 months Age 1–3 weeks Age 3–8 weeks Weight and Shape 12lb (5. HOW TO ENJOY With its ﬂoral decoration. borage. and has hints of the smear rind. the changing of the seasons. This particular cheesemaker enjoys 1997 “to enhance the quality of life for and viola ﬂowers. with hints of spring grass ﬂavor year-round. California USA Fort Collins. ball Weight and Shape 8oz (225g). 3in (7. 1in (2. The ﬂavors co-op member families by sustainably style Monet produced by Dee Harley is within the cheese change as it ages producing and marketing premium a true artist’s palette reﬂecting the and evolves. crispy crackers.5cm) Size D. haze of white mold.Mona Monet MouCo ColoRouge The cooperative began operating in Decorated with fresh marigold.” Now it has beautiful gardens that surround this with a brine solution to create the around 12 dairies and produces a coastal California dairy.5cm) Milk Ewe and cow Milk Goat Milk Cow 291 Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Wisconsin Sheep Dairy Producer Harley Farms Goat Dairy Producer MouCo Cheese Company Cooperative . or grill cheese board. wheel Weight and Shape 8oz (225g). a nutty ﬁnish. it has mild buttery USA has a warm buttery taste. They Creamery’s signature triple-cream strawberry ﬁelds. HOW TO ENJOY Mt. Its texture is soft and velvety. in Pennsylvania so they could focus north of San Francisco Bay.5in (3cm) Classiﬁcation Blue Classiﬁcation Soft white Milk Cow Producer FireFly Farms Producer Cowgirl Creamery Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Oakdale Cheese Company . Size D. Mt. including peppercorns. serve with Sangiovese serving this with poached ﬁgs. a small Dutch-born Walter and Lenneke Bulk herd of goats. 7. just Gouda and Edam. Tam goes extremely HOW TO ENJOY Create a golden grilled well with a golden Pilsner or a Fumé sandwich on French bread with a slice HOW TO ENJOY The cheesemaker suggests Blanc. 3in (7. H. Tamalpais. pyramid Weight and Shape 2oz (60g). H. the dense in texture. Tam is creamy and about 10 weeks. but ultimately decided to mountain located on the Marin County recreate the cheeses of their homeland. A white crunchy pugliese bread. Mountain Top Bleu Mt. 9in (23cm). California USA Oakdale. in central California. buy milk from a local Amish cooperative coast of northern California. dried apricots. and fresh or dried fruit. and toasted almonds. with a rich ﬂavor and that share elements of butterscotch bluing is well balanced against grassy. white TASTING NOTES Aged to perfection for pyramid shape hints at Mountain Top bloomy rind. Cowgirl nestled between almond orchards and exclusively on cheese production. the cheese has ﬂavors Bleu’s unique ﬂavor. 2in (5cm) boulder 292 Milk Goat Milk Cow Size D. round Weight and Shape 9–11lb (4.1–5kg).5cm). H. bright. blue is particularly unusual. 4in (10cm). USA Bittinger. from the Straus Family Dairy. While subtle. garlic. and enjoyably goaty ﬂavors. mustard. THE AMERICAS TASTING NOTES The relatively uncommon TASTING NOTES Under the thick. port would go well on the side. Tam Oakdale Gouda Fireﬂy Farms originally kept its own Named after Mt. and fresh-baked of country ham. Maryland USA Point Reyes. 3in (7. a pleasant fruity ﬁnish. or jalapeño peppers. but this small cheese is made with organic cow’s milk or ﬂavored.5cm) Size D. California Age 5 weeks Age 3–4 weeks Age 2–4 months Weight and Shape 8oz (225g). It is available plain make several varieties. H. Indiana USA Dodgeville. 4in (10cm) Size D. HOW TO ENJOY Robust enough to stand HOW TO ENJOY Ocooch Mountain is up to many ﬂavors. founded Produced in the style of a European Wisconsin known as the Driftless Area. The ﬁne. after very nutty ﬂavor.5cm) Milk Ewe Milk Goat Milk Cow 293 Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Soft white Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Hidden Springs Creamery Producer Capriole Farmstead Goat Cheeses Producer Uplands Cheese Company . 21⁄2in (6cm) Size D. months in the ripening caves it becomes aroma of sheep on open pasture. It is named after a land formation surrounding Amish neighbors. Wisconsin Age 4 months Age 4–8 months Age 8–12 months Weight and Shape 2lb (900g). located in a part of A great cheese from Capriole. 10in (25cm). The quality won Best of Show three times at the high-quality milk is sourced from a herd of the cheeses exhibits the great care American Cheese Society competition. 3in (7. with a fat. delicious with honey and almonds. October. or used like Gruyère. wheel Size D. herd of more than 400 goats. Young. and it supple texture. USA Westby. and has a slightly goaty notes. of East Friesian and Lacaune sheep that with which the Schadds keep their thrive in this terrain. powdery white mold. or a yellow tomato and ginger preserve. it is based mountain cheese from May through operates in close cooperation with its on the mountain tommes of Europe. It has a delightful of toasted walnut on the ﬁnish. savory and more intense. smooth develop its complex ﬂavors and dense. with a hint sweetness of an aromatic wine. H.8kg). H. utilizing but has a thinner rind dusted with a on the farm. drum Weight and Shape 12lb (5. Goes well with on its own with a good red Burgundy. crisp fruity whites. 12in (30cm). by Judy and Larry Schadd. TASTING NOTES Brinewashings and the unique microﬂora of the raw milk help TASTING NOTES This very ﬁrm-textured TASTING NOTES Its pure white. but Judy suggests HOW TO ENJOY Perfect on a cheese board.Ocooch Mountain Old Kentucky Tomme Pleasant Ridge Reserve Hidden Springs. it has the fruity USA on the palate. cheese is crumbly and slightly grainy texture feels light on the palate. and is the only cheese to have traditional sustainable methods. wheel Weight and Shape 4lb (1. 5in (12cm). Pair with a Pinot Noir or other soft red. sweet. Wisconsin USA Greenville.4kg). the gray. . and white molds that develop on the outside of the cheese intermingle between the layers of leaves and the rind.THE AMERICAS 294 ROGUE RIVER BLUE Brine-soaked grape leaves surround the young cheese so that when it ripens. (See p296). blue. this Original DeCastilhos became fascinated with the 1989 with just ﬁve goats. H. mostly from goat’s milk. Flavio Cheesemaker Jim Schott started in Since its debut in 2000. Mountains. taste and fresh herbaceous tang. wheel Weight and Shape 6lb (2. has become a mainstay of cheeses.Point Reyes Original Pondhopper Queso de Mano Blue After a visit to Brazil. TASTING NOTES An aged Spanish-style ﬂavors developing as the blue-gray hard cheese. Adding was its ﬁrst raw-milk cheese. a hoppy beer. Pondhopper is washed a pleasant tang. Queso de Mano cheeses. TASTING NOTES This blue cheese has a unique touch. Colorado Age 6–8 months Age 2–12 weeks Age 4–6 months Weight and Shape 6lb (2. 6in (15cm). from the goats milk. or glass of California Cabernet. H. Blue cheese. TASTING NOTES Pale yellow-white with a supple texture and aromatic tang USA smooth white wheel. made in Point Reyes. drum Size Various Size D. By 2007. Oregon USA Longmont.7kg). 3in (7. toasted almonds. nutty hoppy ale and yeasty bread. 10in (25cm). HOW TO ENJOY Serve thin slices with of green beans sprinkled with pancetta membrillo. USA Point Reyes.5cm) Size D. and a distinct more robust with age. wheel Weight and Shape 9lb (4. The taste becomes a few tiny eyes. with salty ocean in beer from a local microbrewery. it is smooth and supple.7kg). typical HOW TO ENJOY Crumble over a warm dish of goat’s milk cheeses. wonderful local Italian-style artisan he had formed a partnership with California. where they make 12 artisan successful for all. 4in (10cm) Milk Cow Milk Goat Milk Goat 295 Classiﬁcation Blue Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Point Reyes Cheese Producer Tumalo Farms Producer Haystack Mountain Goat Dairy . it is slightly grainy with veins mature throughout the creamy. This has proved hugely numerous cheesemaking awards.1kg). California USA Bend. or ﬁgs and savor the taste while enjoying a HOW TO ENJOY A natural partner for a along with a ﬁno or dry sherry. with a hoppy taste balanced by a nutty taste of toasted almonds on the ﬁnish. It resulted in the successful Colorado Correction Industries to cope cheese boards and the recipient of Tumalo Farms in the Cascade with demand. after Foods in Point Reyes Station. the rind without being overpowered. TASTING NOTES This triple-cream cheese and soaked in pear brandy. round Weight and Shape 5lb (2. to help farms get their products to the success. washed Classiﬁcation Blue Classiﬁcation Fresh Producer Cowgirl Creamery Producer Rogue Creamery Producer Silvery Moon Creamery . H. who. HOW TO ENJOY Goes well with an IPA HOW TO ENJOY Pair with dessert wines HOW TO ENJOY Its mildness makes it a beer. 2003 by Jennifer Betencourt. H. it has great is washed in brine. 7in (18cm). dry Riesling. continues to enjoy great studying cheesemaking at Cornell. in 2008 Rogue River Farm. wheel Size D. shaved over baked sweet potato slices. Thomas Vella. including their own cheeses to be certiﬁed for export. still works the pristine pastures that successful brand. or cider. founded in the 1930s Silvery Moon Creamery was founded in and Sue Conley launched Tomales Bay by one of America’s great cheesemakers. drum Weight and Shape 3lb (1. Try it poached pears or calvados soufﬂé. 6in (15cm). friends Peggy Smith Rogue Creamery. 3in (7. Oregon USA Westbrook. 2in (5cm) Size D. Under the management of formed a partnership with Smiling Hill Bay Area’s ﬁnest chefs. California USA Central Point. 4in (10cm) Size D. California. the farm and Europe. yet TASTING NOTES Very fresh and clean distinctive sunset orange-red color and moist and smooth in the mouth. Although located in a relatively over 200 cheeses from North America became the ﬁrst American raw-milk commercial area of Maine. and pears or use in desserts such as good base for numerous recipes. Red Hawk Rogue River Blue Rosemary’s Waltz In the early 1990s. and is ﬂavors of the rosemary and juniper on and pungent ﬂavor and aroma. it picks up the giving Red Hawk its bold appearance less salty than many blues. have remained in the hands of the THE AMERICAS TASTING NOTES Wrapped in grape leaves same family since the 1700s. Firm.25kg).35kg).5cm) 296 Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Semi-soft. it is with a crumbly texture. Cowgirl Creamery. Today they offer David Gremmels. H. tinting the rind a intensity and depth of ﬂavor. 4in (10cm). Maine Age 4–5 weeks Age 6–8 months Age 1 month Weight and Shape 10oz (300g). creamy and sweet with a spicy ﬁnish. USA Point Reyes Station. George Producer Fagundes Old World Cheese .R&R Cheddar St. a group It keeps a herd of Holsteins grazing on Mary and George Matos originally of small islands west of Portugal. drum Weight and Shape 9–16lb (4.7–3. or tomatoes and olive oil. partnered with Smiling Hill in 2003. it has an earthy minerality. is made only with morning milk existing diary business. 10in (25cm).3kg). the family’s ﬁrst. complemented grating. it also makes a tasty snack enjoy on its own with a strong lager. Maine USA Santa Rosa. this raw milk USA tight grain. time with crunchy crystals that round cheese is long on ﬂavor and slow to Rather than salty or savory on the out the full ﬂavor of the Jersey cream. Size D. H. enhanced over cheddar and Gouda. Smiling Hill This is made to honor the island of The Fagundes family makes cheeses Farm is ancient by American standards. it has a chewy texture and hints of earthy meadow. The Matos family now makes its Isabel Fagundes made cheese in the pesticides. where pastures free of chemical fertilizer and come.7kg). USA Westbrook. Silvery Moon Creamery Portuguese-style farmstead cheese in late 1800s. it ﬁnish. 14in (35cm). with a TASTING NOTES Mild but full of interesting ﬁrm cheddar-like texture that offers TASTING NOTES With a texture between subtlety. Jorge. mellows to a creamy. Weight and Shape 6–8lb (2. TASTING NOTES A perfect balance of from their farm. the ﬂavor is sweet and full. After the initial sharp bite.1–7. HOW TO ENJOY A marvelous choice for HOW TO ENJOY The texture and age make macaroni and cheese with sun-dried HOW TO ENJOY An excellent cheese for it ideal for melting in sandwiches. from where based on those from the Azores. São Jorge in the Azores. with a glass of Cabernet Sauvignon. mature. George St. like all their adding artisan cheese production to its cheese. 4in (10cm) wheel wheel Milk Cow Size Various Size D. California USA Hanford.6kg). creamy dense and rich ﬂavors. St. Jorge Founded in the 1700s. 4in (10cm) 297 Classiﬁcation Hard Milk Cow Milk Cow Producer Silvery Moon Creamery Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Matos St. by a glass of Barbera. was released in 2000 and. H. sweet-fruity tang. California. California Age 6 months minimum Age 3–6 months Age Up to 3 years Weight and Shape 17lb (7. Santa Rosa. Viognier. 5in (12cm) 298 Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Soft white Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Fiscali Farmstead Cheese Producer Mt. They have been making inspired by Swiss mountain cheeses. HOW TO ENJOY Taste it on site where you pasta dish and serve with a full-bodied Equally. Vermont Age 16–24 months Age 4–6 weeks Age 12–14 months Weight and Shape 30lb (13. warm to the palate. in keeping with the Creamery in Washington. drum Size Various Size Various Size D. and dried fruit. HOW TO ENJOY A perfect picnic and hiking yellow color. Barn. 13in (33cm). crusty HOW TO ENJOY Grate it into a creamy baguette. the ﬂavors that become piquant as it ages. from mid-May to mid-October. and then aged at Jasper Hill. crumbly and a crumbly texture. USA Modesto. wheel Weight and Shape 8oz (225g). Historic Landmark in Shelburne. forest. This cheesemaker’s concept of creating cheddar is made with Brown Swiss cows’ cheese in the European tradition. on their 1. cheese served with a fresh. texture and buttery feel. It is a one-of-a-kind carefully aged for more than a year in cheese with a buttery golden color cheese. Washington USA Shelburne. are the inspiration for the cheeses cheddar since 1980. Townsend Creamery Producer Shelburne Farms . H. Townsend working farm. a ﬁne meal with friends. with a silky texture and earthy cheesecloth. this American original is coastal lines of the Paciﬁc Northwest organization. it makes a delicious ﬁnale to can view the cheesemaking at the Farm San Joaquin Syrah. it has a dense.6kg). round Weight and Shape 22lb (10kg). with a sharp complex ﬂavors of nuts and grass arise raw onion savory bite. and National farmstead cows. ash and sea salt prior to ripening is THE AMERICAS TASTING NOTES It is aged for 16 to the key to the balance of ﬂavors in this TASTING NOTES Hand-wrapped and 24 months to create a full-ﬂavored soft white cheese. San Joaquin Gold Seastack Shelburne Cheddar Named after the San Joaquin Valley The rock formations covering the Shelburne Farms is a non-proﬁt in California.400-acre It is produced with the milk of Holstein produced at the Mt. TASTING NOTES The coating of vegetable raw milk. As it ages. and deep. California USA Port Townsend. white wine or wheat beer. Vermont Age 1–3 weeks Age 3 months Age 80 days Weight and Shape 7oz (200g). including a cheddar and decided to be the ﬁrst to smoke a blue. full-cream ﬂavor and texture with of hazelnuts with a touch of creamy washed-rind cheese. spicy blue a hint TASTING NOTES Soft Wheel is a pungent. The rind is thick USA hints of sweet grass. Oregon USA West Cornwall. 5in (12cm). caramel and smoke on the ﬁnish. as and when needed. Respectful of organic cheeses. while the inside is and a sea-salty tang on the ﬁnish. H. the ﬁrst blue producing his own cheese from a name also produce a range of natural and made on the West Coast. its producers small herd of 25 goats. TASTING NOTES This cheese is smoked neighboring farms. rich and goaty with hints of chestnuts. However. wheel Size No size Size Various Size D. wheel Weight and Shape 11⁄2lb (700g). 2in (5cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Goat and cow 299 Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Blue Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Sierra Nevada Producer Rogue Creamery Producer Twig Farm . Hence Smokey Blue was born. and after their retailer. but soft and sticky. the cheesemakers of the same success with Oregon Blue. but since 2005 he has been Mountains. alongside a glass of California baguette is a great way to enjoy nuts alongside an Alsace-style aromatic Sauvignon Blanc. USA Willows. supply of milk with cow’s milk from old-style cream ones. container Weight and Shape 5lb (21⁄4kg). HOW TO ENJOY The marriage of this HOW TO ENJOY Spread on a bagel or fold smoked blue with a bottle of chocolate HOW TO ENJOY Spread on warm crusty into an omelet with smoked salmon and stout and slices of stoneground-wheat bread and serve with dried fruit and chives. cheesemaker often supplements his their best cheeses are these authentic. this various ﬂavored Jack cheeses. California USA Central Point. a sunny afternoon. warm butter. over a bed of local hazelnut shells. TASTING NOTES Sierra Nevada has a giving the robust. seasonality.Sierra Nevada Cream Smokey Blue Cheese Soft Wheel Cheese Rogue Creamery ages its cheeses in Michael Lee started out as a cheese Named after the Sierra Nevada Roquefort-style caves. and makes a great fondue. It interior with tiny holes. A place where city native vegetation to forage on.25cm) Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Hard Milk Cow (Jersey) Producer Surﬁng Goat Dairy Producer Thistle Hill Farm Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Spring Brook Farm . Size No size Size D. For a true tropical experience. to expand production. HOW TO ENJOY Pairwith Vin de Savoie HOW TO ENJOY Pair with crunchy pickles Fire Rock Pale Ale. Neighboring Thistle Hill gave regional ﬂavors to the milk. them the recipe to expand production. tangy goat-milk ﬁnish. H. and some fresh apples. USA Kula. spicy ﬁnish. and a pale. France. and a touch of acidity on the ﬁnish. 4in (10cm) wheel 300 Milk Goat Milk Cow Size D. It has distinct has a cherrylike aroma when freshly cut. H. complement with a Kona Brewing Co. jar Weight and Shape 18lb (8. farmyardy notes. offer an Jim Hagedorn were inspired to create Hawaiian slopes of Maui’s Haleakala excellent American interpretation of the Farms for City Kids Foundation at Crater. 20in (50cm). Vermont Age A few days Age 8 months Age 10–12 months Weight and Shape 8oz (225g).35–9kg). greens. 2014 American Cheese Society awards. with hints of nuts and HOW TO ENJOY Serve with fresh mango The texture is initially medium dry. wheel Weight and Shape 14–20lb (6. 15in (38cm). A winner at the slices and macadamia nuts over salad relaxes in the mouth. Hawaii USA North Pomfret. TASTING NOTES The golden color translates TASTING NOTES Tarentaise has a brown- with a sweet creamy taste and into the ﬂavor. Karli and The farm is located on the sunny in Haute-Savoie. They have shared the Spring Brook Farm. with toasty caramel notes orange rind. Surﬁng Goat Dairy Tarentaise Tarentaise Quark John and Janine Putnam. who trained Following a trip to England. Maui.2kg). potatoes and serve with cured meats. providing the herd of goats with Alpine cheeses. and adding distinctive with neighboring Spring Brook Farms out. dense. It also grills like and a rich brown ale. as well recipe and strict milk quality controls kids spend time learning while helping as pasture. elastic pleasant. but a peppery. Vermont USA Reading. THE AMERICAS TASTING NOTES Smooth on the palate. 31⁄4in (8. or melt over boiled raclette. wheel Size D. and means free-range chickens that are sold almost “molehill. Great with sourdough cheese. and hot mustard.Taupinière Telford Reserve Thomasville Tomme Laura Chenel. 3in (7. started making Necessity Farm believes in traditional beautiful wooded terrain in southern goat cheese in the late 1970s. 2in (5cm) Size D. to recipes without being overpowering. cheeses. milk from which they make about ten they produce several different styles of Made in the historic town of Sonoma.5cm). is the best match. 16in (40cm).6kg) wheel Weight and Shape 9lb (4. cheese. from which committed to carrying on her legacy. texture is chewy and semi-soft. H. This one is modeled after the it is based on the traditional French Their range includes sausages and traditional tommes of the Pyrenees. Georgia. with simplicity that is best compared to USA mild goat taste. 5in (12cm) Milk Goat Milk Cow Milk Cow 301 Classiﬁcation Soft white Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Laura Chenel’s Chèvre Producer Necessity Farm and Dairy Producer Sweet Grass Dairy .” referring to its shape. H. with a TASTING NOTES Deliciously complex. a creamy It has a ﬁrm but not crumbly texture. this cheese has an appealing TASTING NOTES Pleasantly chalky. sweet. slightly charcoal ash beneath the stark white ﬁnish typical of premium aged Gouda. layer develops under the rind. HOW TO ENJOY Ideal for macaroni and HOW TO ENJOY Greaton a cheese board. 5in (12cm) Size D. recognized as the pioneer Located just outside Philadelphia. cheese. country ham.1kg). The Littles keep a small herd she sold the company to a French family. bread. HOW TO ENJOY Beer. In 2006. and perfectly balanced. exclusively into the local community. Poitou-Charentes. 3. 12in (30cm). H. alongside other farm products. Sweet Grass Dairy is located on of American goat cheese. Pennsylvania USA Thomasville. molehill Weight and Shape 8lb (. sustainable farming. rich. The crusty rind. with their small. As the cheese ages. California USA Philadelphia. grass-fed herd producing beautiful raw of goats and Jersey cows. its mellow ﬂavor lends richness pair with Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé. preferably good lager. TASTING NOTES Although relatively mild in ﬂavor. USA Sonoma. it has a thin dusting of a tart bite and a long butterscotch farm-fresh milk: clean. Georgia Age 2–6 weeks Age 10 months Age 3–6 months Weight and Shape 6oz (175g). THE AMERICAS 302 SMOKEY BLUE CHEESE The holes where the stainless steel rods have penetrated the rind are clearly visible. These create ﬁne tunnels that allow air to reach the interior. encouraging the mold added to the milk to turn blue (see p299). . its woody aroma. the cheese is imbued with or soupy. A hundred acres of their drop of cream goes into producing this Alps that bear this name. 61⁄2in (17cm). crusty walnut bread. Alpine goats. every cheeses produced mainly in the French and livestock. woody undertone. Wisconsin USA Pine Plains. saucer Size D. H. try it HOW TO ENJOY Pearcider enhances the with Champagne. or pita wedges and top with caviar. H. and another hundred acres TASTING NOTES Dense. with a subtle tart ﬁnish and TASTING NOTES The pine essence from the barely a hint of the goat’s milk. 7. USA Grantsburg. and are reserved as wildlife habitat.5cm) wheel Size D. and a nutty ﬂavor that ends with a peppery. It is supple and silky triple-cream cheeses. rich. crisp whites. wheel Weight and Shape 3–5lb (1. It is made land is devoted to grazing their specially 75-percent-fat triple-cream goat cheese. aim to exist milk from its large herd of Alpine goats in Oregon’s Cascade Mountains.25kg).5cm) 303 Milk Sheep and goat (blend) Classiﬁcation Soft white Milk Goat Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Coach Farm Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Love Tree Farmstead Producer Juniper Grove Farm .8kg (4lb). smear on ﬂavors of Tumalo Tomme. HOW TO ENJOY Toodelicate to cook. the in harmony with the environment and makes a wide range of products. New York USA Redmond. as is sometimes the case with components of this washed-rind cheese.35–2. when served with pear compote and bubbles make good partners. H. buttery. and Saanen goats. sweet. La Mancha. ﬂying Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg). especially HOW TO ENJOY Rosé. 20cm (8in). 3in (7. The ﬁnish has ﬂoral overtones. “tomme” comes from the style of artisan through proper stewardship of the land Given the relatively small yield. it does aging planks is reﬂected in the pastoral TASTING NOTES Aged in fresh air caves on not exhibit a tendency to become runny ﬂavors that complement the earthy USA cedar boards. To indulge. with small holes.5–10cm (3–4in) Milk Goat Size D. with raw milk from a mixed herd of bred sheep and a small herd of French Alpine. 3in (7.Trader Lake Cedar Triple Cream Wheel Tumalo Tomme Dave and Mary Falk. 7in (18cm). Oregon Age 21⁄2 months or more Age 20–30 days Age 6 months Weight and Shape 1. farming Coach Farm produces exceptional Tumalo Tomme is named after Tumalo organically since 1986. 6in (15cm) 304 H. vinegar. and pale yellow. H. 4in (10cm). Tying it in muslin or cheesecloth patience is rewarded with exceptional THE AMERICAS TASTING NOTES A cross between French forms its irregular square shape. cylinder Size L. slightly musty blue sweetness of the milk. HOW TO ENJOY Ideal for crumbling into or honey with a touch of balsamic HOW TO ENJOYPerfect with a honey salads or grilling on your favorite steak. W. square Weight and Shape 2lb (900g). milk. paired with a bold Tempranillo. W. New York USA West Cornwall. are cave-aged on and animals too. quality and dynamic ﬂavors. sweet ﬁnish. Size L. 4in (10cm).5kg). Cantal and cheddar.8kg). it uses only milk from its own Hill’s cheeses come and go quickly. Their strictly seasonal a unique terroir of grasses and herbs. Many. this one. 8in (20cm) H. 8in (20cm). herbaceous raw milk. The rind carries this medium-strong. Hard. USA Port Chester. Tumbleweed Twig Farm Square Vaquero Blue 5 Spoke Creamery’s ﬁrst “spoke” of Cheese This organic farm produces a wide inspiration came from the belief that Not able to rely on the availability of range of handmade ewe’s-milk or mixed like riding a bicycle. including production means that many of Willow producing sweet. balance is the goat’s milk. 5in (12cm). Vermont USA Milton. it has a fruity ﬂavor. paired with a Merlot or dry Riesling. TASTING NOTES Hazelnuts are the leading TASTING NOTES Its appearance speaks compact. Their cows graze on supplementing its supply with cow’s the property. 2in (5cm) Milk Ewe and cow Milk Cow Milk Goat Classiﬁcation Blue Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Willow Hill Farm Producer 5 Spoke Creamery Producer Twig Farm . ﬂat square Weight and Shape 4lb (1. penetrate the ﬁrm. Size D. Vermont Age 12–14 months Age 2–3 months Age 6 months Weight and Shape 10lb (4. but this does not is buttery and smooth on the palate. key to a healthy lifestyle for people follows the traditional practice of including this one. 8in (20cm). but acidity that is balanced by the rich mellow.and cow’s-milk cheeses. Twig Farm sometimes ewe’s. HOW TO ENJOY Goes well with fresh ﬁgs. But for certain cheeses. which rolls into a surprisingly volumes about the cave ripening. it comes into its own after 12 months in the cave. derived from nut or herb blossoms. dense paste. but herd. a certain pungency. its texture is very dense and slightly acidic ﬂavor. 6in (15cm) Size D. p108–09). TASTING NOTES The layered curd ripens TASTING NOTES Deliciously sweet and this surface-ripened cheese has a goaty at different rates. The is now making his own raw milk cheeses. 12in (30cm) H. 31⁄2in (9cm) Size D. with a hint of woolliness. 11⁄2in (4cm) Milk Cow 305 Milk Ewe Milk Goat Classiﬁaction Blue Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Producer Parish Hill Creamery Producer Major farms Producer Capriole Farmstead Goat Cheese . for years and was an American Cheese Inspired by traditional Gorgonzola (see each wheel of cheese is delivered with a Society award winner in 1995. concentrated. York market. enjoy this one on its own. Indiana USA Westminster West. convex Weight and Shape 4oz (115g). True a pleasant muskiness. on the day of production. the rind lends earthy texture. has After 30 years of “cheese whispering” cave-aged sheep’s-milk cheese. Bread and crackers HOW TO ENJOY In a bar in New York or a black cherry conserve. Vermont USA Greenville. Farm has served as a training ground goat cheeses distinctively its own. with a Merlot. but it works distract from the ﬂavor. aged by Crown Finish Caves for the New savory ﬁnish. Vermont Age 6 months Age 3–10 weeks Age 5–10 months Weight and Shape 3lb (1. light equally well with quince paste. ﬂattened Weight and Shape 18lb (8kg). with wife Rachel. TASTING NOTES Firm and slightly dry. 6in (15cm). and buttermilky. To Wabash Cannonball has been a success which are aged in an old root cellar. Patch an ever-evolving range of French-style for others. so it is best to a ﬁeld in Vermont. creating a mottled. hoppy ale. it has a long sweet. or Dry Riesling. founded by Judy Schadd. The ﬁnish is rich a spicy. highlight the importance of terroir. wheel drum ball Size D. The blue streaks impart USA and relaxes nicely in the mouth. Some are to Pyrenean style. salt and pepper tang. HOW TO ENJOY Ideal with dried fruit and HOW TO ENJOY The classic pairing is with sparkling wine.Vermont Shepherd Wabash Cannonball West West Blue Aside from producing this excellent Capriole. West West Blue is a blend of certiﬁcate detailing the herd’s activity fresh curd from two consecutive days. Peter Dixon.35kg). for many aspiring cheesemakers. with a thin white rind dusted with ash. H. USA Putney. Oregon Age 2–3 months Age 60 days Weight and Shape 8oz (225g). a fresh-baked sweet baguette. Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Hard THE AMERICAS TASTING NOTES It has a sweet pungency. H. toasted almonds. stand out as a sweet. largely because they are handmade in the farmstead tradition. Although TASTING NOTES This hard cheese is aged for 24 months until it is full of rich it has proved impossible to buttery ﬂavors and has a ﬁrm cheddar- photograph them. Old World cheesemakers. 21⁄2in (6cm). 2in (5cm) Size D. this is always worth waiting for. while the paste’s texture is perfectly velvety with a soft rind. Make sure it is ripe and at room The milk for this blue cheese comes Dairy were impressed by the ﬂavor temperature when you serve it. and walnut levain loaf alongside an a nutty brown ale. Washington USA Scio. round TASTING NOTES Alpine Lakes Creamy TASTING NOTES The distinct ﬂavors of this 306 Size D. the beer-washed Size D. cheese to become available. 6in (16cm). Producer 5 Spoke Creamery with hints of wet stone. and a golden ale. and Lacaune sheep. H. Vermont rustic appearance. 3in (7. raw ewe’s-milk cheese Milk Cow when 60 days old. H. It roasted nuts in the ﬁnish. and a crusty almonds. crisp white port. because they are produced in very remote areas. they are like texture. round Weight and Shape 5lb (2. and creamy to taste. 5 Spoke Creamery More Cheeses Browning Gold of the US The name 5 Spoke Creamery was inspired by the ambling bicycle journeys around the world of two friends.5cm) Milk Ewe Milk Ewe Classiﬁcation Blue Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Alpine Lakes Sheep Cheese Producer Ancient Heritage Dairy . 2in (5cm) Bleu is ripened and brought to market two-month aged. so they decided to with traditional roqueforti mold to recreate it at home in Oregon. with an taste on the palate with a hint of Producer Jasper Hill Farm ivory center streaked with blue. 9in (23cm). spring. savor. cherries. Available only from midwinter through So. and dense Classiﬁcation Semi-soft smooth. read. Age 2 months Weight and Shape 11⁄4lb (550g). 71⁄2in (19cm) Winnimere reﬂects European training. By then it is rich. fresh-baked wheat bread. and is infused ewe’s-milk cheese. true blue ﬂavor and Heritage Scio was produced in honor of USA Greensboro. so it is from a herd of mixed East Friesland and texture of traditional European almost liquid. wheel Size D. HOW TO ENJOY Ancient Heritage Scio is HOW TO ENJOY Serve on a cheese board pleasantly delicious when paired with with fresh plums. USA Port Chester. produced on site from the raw milk of a only available seasonally or closed herd of grass-fed cows. All the cheeses are rare. which they likened to the journey of discovery The following cheeses are when making cheese. 6in (15cm). H. The sweet ﬂavor has an almost bacon-like smokiness to it.25kg). and seek out. Like Jasper cylinder Hill’s other cheeses. aromatic. Alpine Lakes Ancient Heritage Scio HOW TO ENJOY It is best with sweet beer Creamy Bleu The cheesemakers at Ancient Heritage or cider. so we are including them. USA Leavenworth. New York and its slight variability from year to Age 24 months year always stirs excitement for the Weight and Shape 9–11lb (4–4. Ancient create a pristine. important and interesting HOW TO ENJOY Truly a ﬁne pairing with examples of cheeses of the Winnimere US. intensiﬁes in ﬂavor with age. moist.9kg). 5cm). a drizzle of wild honey. HOW TO ENJOY Toss in a salad with air on the ﬁnish. and a sweet tomato and garlic pasta dish. 2in (5cm) Milk Ewe and goat Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Goat Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Hidden Springs Creamery Classiﬁcation Blue Producer Larkhaven Farmstead Cheeses Producer Rollingstone Chevre USA Creamery Subblime Ferns Edge Goat Dairy Golden Glen This cheese owes its name not just to Fern’s Edge Dairy is nestled in the Creamery Mozzarella its ﬂavor.7kg). associated with French-style chèvre. sweet cheese without the feral goaty taste on the palate. afternoon picnic. ball Size Various Size Various Size Various Milk Goat Milk Goat Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Fresh Producer Estrella Family Creamery Producer Ferns Edge Goat Dairy Producer Golden Glen Creamery . start. and baguette. log Weight and Shape 8oz (225g). highlight the elegant ﬂavors.5cm) pyramid Size Various Milk Ewe Size D. it has a delicate and soft texture. wheel Weight and shape 6oz (175g).” a La Mancha foothills of Mount Zion in the Cascade Golden Glen Creamery is the only doe in the farm’s herd that once broke Hills of Oregon. Bad Axe is named after the river range of wonderful cheeses. combining an cheese producer in Idaho. herbed olives. Add a apple slices. USA Montesano. Creamery cheeses are made with raw goats. yet subtle. 3in (7. TASTING NOTES Moist and creamy to organically maintained pastures. dribble of fresh pesto. 307 semi-soft perfection. which is followed by hint of goat and a tang of coastal salt a sweet cream ﬁnish. creamy texture and a complex. slices a ﬂavorful Zinfandel. artisan farmstead producer on the Washington her neck and resembled a submarine cheese of the same name is handcrafted coast that hand-makes and stretches while healing! All Estrella Family using the milk of the organic farm’s fresh mozzarella. It has a distinct. from which they now make a mountain summit in Okanogan County. TASTING NOTES A delectably creamy and TASTING NOTES Beneath the thick. The fresh. round or wheel Size D.35kg). then a ﬁrmer nutty interior. purchased to provide milk for a semi-soft ewe’s. peak. Washington USA Westby. established in Clare Paris makes raw goat’s. create a ﬁne meal. including that ﬂows through the Westby Valley. and and tomatoes and served up for an HOW TO ENJOY Serve with walnuts. Weight and Shape 6lb (2. 6in (15cm). and a dry Riesling. Oregon USA Bow. 3in (7.and goat’s-milk cheese. and wash it down with bottle of rich Washington Syrah to a Washington State Chardonnay to a crisp glass of Viognier. their herd has expanded to and Cayuse. TASTING NOTESIt has a dense. Idaho Age 6 months Age 8–12 weeks Age 30 days Weight and Shape 2–3lb (900g–1. The ﬂavor of midnight-blue Penicillum roqueforti herbaceous attributes of a hard goat the ewe’s-milk cream stays pleasantly coat is a thin. USA Tonasket. all-natural farmstead ﬁrst goat. arugula. serve as a snack with a HOW TO ENJOY Serve with fresh pears. old-fashioned. it is rich in ﬂavor and has a TASTING NOTES A fresh-ﬂavored Chèvre. HOW TO ENJOY It is best on a cheese plate a fresh baguette stuffed with arugula with charcuterie.and ewe’s- sheep dairy in the rolling hills of 1988. character that has all the nutty and sweet semi-soft cheese. with just enough modern equipment the family. almost liquid. From the a hard ewe’s-milk cheese. delicate texture that reﬂects the gentle TASTING NOTES Aged for two months to it is made by hand to create a delicate process by which the cheese was made. H. Rosa Rugosa.Bad Axe Bleu Age Cayuse Mountain Goat Hidden Springs Farm is a sustainable Rollingstone Chevre. and seasoned with some of their milk and the animals graze on home-grown herbs. layer. western Wisconsin. Washington Age 60 days Age 1–3 weeks Age 2–10 days Weight and Shape 8oz (225g). some blanched almonds. Washington USA Lowell. H. was the ﬁrst farmstead goat milk cheeses including Shepherd’s Gem. Wisconsin USA Parma. of fresh pears. goaty HOW TO ENJOY Pairs perfectly with taste and a spicy blue tang. or add to a fresh HOW TO ENJOY Best with a baguette. but to “Subby. but not strong. which is named after a and science to keep the quality at its over 300. this unusual external blue mold one. round Weight and Shape 4oz (115g). it has thick. rustic old-vine Zinfandel. Washington USA Ferndale. H. Washington USA Santa Margarita. There they creates a snow-white round drum cows. block Weight and Shape 8lb 13oz (4kg). Teleme.5cm) Size D. it has a ﬂavor and on by her daughters. Pozo Tomme. with and goats. 8in (20cm). block-shaped cheese is aged for one TASTING NOTES Don’t be put off by the week in order to yield a velvety smooth. 3in (7. undertones to a distinct nuttiness. and serve sandwich. a rich creamy taste that becomes more cream-like interior with streaks of pale ﬂavorful and complex with age. Sara Bolton established Pure Giovanni Peluso. HOW TO ENJOY Best with a big red. Carried continues to this day thanks to the the same name. and Shorthorn cows. fresh apples. World ﬂavors that range from earthy original earthy tones. this goat cheese is delicate and soft. American version of Swiss cheese. California Age Over 60 days Age 8 – 12 weeks Age 2–4 months Weight and Shape 4–8oz (115–225g). 8in (20cm). their ﬂagship cheese. the cheese becomes dense and mild though sweet milk ﬂavor that develops a thin natural rind and Old strengthens in ﬂavor.5cm) Size Various Size Various Milk Goat Milk Cow Milk Ewe Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Pine Stump Farms Producers Pleasant Valley Dairy Producer Rinconada Dairy . Mutschli was ﬁrst made to be an established their mixed herd of sheep with a thin white rind. 3in (7. Enjoy it with a glass of with a glass of Sangiovese. and toasted oil over frisée greens is a meal that walnuts. accompanied by a Pinot Grigio. Frankin Peluso. The milk used comes from Hopelessly Blue is named after one of an organic herd of Jersey. Hopelessly Blue Midcoast Teleme Montasio One of the few artisan cheesemakers The original Teleme was created by Although this American cheese is based in Texas. Weight and Shape 5–6lb (2. and soon after they created the same smooth texture but no holes. drum rounds wheel Size D. Surprisingly mild. aged. USA Dripping Springs. clean ﬂavor. gray-blue crust that hides a moist texture and a fresh. 31⁄2in (9cm) Milk Goat Milk Cow Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Blue Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Hard THE AMERICAS Producer Pure Luck Farm & Dairy Producer Franklin’s Cheeses Producer Samish Bay Cheese Pine Stump Crottin Pleasant Valley Dairy Pozo Tomme This Crottin is made in the traditional Mutschli Jim and Christine Macquire started French way. Dutch Belted. however. bread. TASTING NOTESThis fresh.25–2. TASTING NOTES Firm to the touch. 31⁄2–4in (9–10cm). sweet spicy butter and becomes bolder and a sourdough baguette make a HOW TO ENJOY Grate over warm ravioli or with age. Weight and Shape 2–6lb (900g–2. H. H. 11⁄2–2in(4–5cm) Size L. maintaining its ﬁnishes with a hint of toasted walnuts. As it TASTING NOTES The raw milk offers a TASTING NOTES This semi-soft cheese 308 ages. blue. when offers real pleasure when served with its ﬂavors with a nutty brown ale.7kg). 5in (12cm). the farm now has work of third-generation cheesemaker style of its own that is inﬂuenced by around 100 Nubian and Alpine goats. USA Omak. Complement and accentuate HOW TO ENJOY Serve on its own or. or pears. Samish Bay. 10in (25cm). the sisters who refused to eat it. risotto. made with a distinctive rice-ﬂour crust. butcher’s. grate over grilled vegetables or a fruity Marsanne. Over time it the milk of this family farmstead’s San Luis Obisbo in 1999. the tradition on the northeastern Italian cheese of Luck Farm & Dairy in 1979. Washington Age 8–12 weeks Age 1 week Age 6–9 months Weight and shape 11⁄2lb (800g). red onions. California USA Bow. it tastes like HOW TO ENJOY Italian salami.7kg). where the curd is gently This original Washington creation is an making cheese in earnest when they ladled into molds and allowed to drain artisan cheese that is produced from moved to their small ranch near off without pressing. HOW TO ENJOY Use it to create a rich With age it becomes ﬁrm and rich in HOW TO ENJOY Warmed Crottin sprinkled warm dish of potatoes au gratin with butterscotch ﬂavors. classic San Francisco North Beach fresh cooked spinach pasta. with cracked black pepper and olive fresh parsley. drum Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb (3kg). H. wheel Size D. Texas USA San Louis Obispo. TASTING NOTES When young. W. The cheese is still the grazing and coastal breeze of Produced between March and October. and pears teases the palette.35kg). alongside HOW TO ENJOYServe with crusty bread or cheddar. Breeze has created their own unique cheesemaker in the town of Theresa. a third-generation The family originally came from Peru. elegant contrast to the lemony fresh HOW TO ENJOY Eat with fresh ﬁgs. Wisconsin Age 1–2 weeks Weight and Shape 2–3lb (900g–1. H. olives. smoked. TASTING NOTES Supple and smooth. Excellent with a Pilsner beer. the creamy 309 the ﬂavor changes from mild and taste and brine ﬂavors come through HOW TO ENJOY You can appreciate Vache sweet with a subtle nuttiness to the crumbly texture of this feta- de Vashon with a dry cider or pungent and tangy when aged. surrounding woodlands. cheeses. tang and creamy texture of the cheese. TASTING NOTES A vein of musical blues wrapped in smoked maple leaves that runs through each wheel. His raw ewe and cow’s. the notes of the cheesemaking. established Steamboat made using a combination of two milks: Edge Chevre is attributed to the Island Goat Farm in 2006. California Zinfandel. Washington USA Lodsden.Steamboat Island Two Faced Blue Up in Smoke Gouda Peccato The underlining character of the Jason Drew. 3in (7cm). USA Steamboat Island.5kg) wheel Weight and Shape 5oz (140g). Washington Age 2–6 months USA Doty. peppers while enjoying with a robust mustard. makes a large range of the United States and. square Size Various Size Various Size D. and roasted red especially with pumpernickel bread. TASTING NOTES Farm Gouda is a cheddar. honey. including this aged brick—a a farm where they strive to create a Wisconsin original. Good with ale. a supporter of the Slow The name refers to the fact that it is various cheeses produced by River’s Food movement. but moved to cellar-aged regional and original raw Wisconsin. as the name suggests. California Age 2–4 months USA Theresa. and Switzerland. natural smoke. bourbon provides an unusual but background. encompassed in a soft. Italy. Age 8 –12 weeks Weight and Shape 4oz (115g) and 8oz wheel Weight and Shape 5lb (2. model of sustainable agriculture and TASTING NOTES The essence of apples that is washed or smeared to create excellent goats’-milk cheeses. Oregon Weight and shape 2–10lb (900g–4.25kg). along with balanced meadow and ﬂavors. It is one of several abundance of grazing in the meadows intention was to create handmade goat blues made in the century-old barn on alongside the Siletz River and the cheeses that could be produced with the banks of the Chehalis River. Sea Joe Widmer. Up in Smoke integrity and that would support his is. containers Size Various Size Various Size Various Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Goat Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Fresh Producer Sea Breeze Farm Producer Widmers Cellars Producer Yerba Santa Dairy . The style cheese with a full ﬂavor of goat’s taste is a blend of earthy and ﬂoral TASTING NOTESThe combination of milk. in 1986. brick (225g). HOW TO ENJOY Serve with sourdough rolls and toasted walnut bread for a late or as a great alternative to cow’s-milk afternoon cheese board. 2in (5cm) Milk Goat Milk Ewe and cow Milk Goat Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Blue Classiﬁcation Fresh Producer Steamboat Island Goat Farm Producer Willapa Hills Farmstead Cheese Producer River’s Edge Chevre USA Vache de Vashon Widmers Cellars Aged Yerba Santa Dairy Inﬂuenced by the alpine regions of Brick Cheese Fresca France. where they made cheese. inspired by have been sprinkled with bourbon. and hints of ﬂoral undertones and a nutty blue-gray rind. HOW TO ENJOY Serve a chef’s sandwich HOW TO ENJOY Slice for sandwiches.5kg). Sauvignon Blanc along with sweet Also available as a spread. ﬁrst made in 1877. USA Vashon Island. a Washington State Pinot Noir. Washington USA Lakeport. with a the orange sticky rind. pound cake for dessert. sweet and delicate rich. Age 3 months Age 1–3 weeks round Weight and Shape 10lb (4. of Fresca. delivered to market daily. and onions. bought milk cheeses. maple leaves. maple-toasted walnuts and smoked ale. style cheese. buttery texture TASTING NOTES Freshly made and on the ﬁnish. then community and family farm. tall Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (160g). well Grace sisters produce a range of blue. .CANADA Allegretto Avonlea Clothbound Baby Blue This washed-rind cheese is produced Cheddar Using raw and pasteurized milk. This Prince Edward Island Dairy. Serve with an maple syrup soup. sweeter taste. interior is dense yet crumbly because qualities of the Jersey milk. and fresh cheeses production. CANADA La Sarre. grate into cider and Melt over poached pears with toasted with steamed asparagus. 4in (10cm) cylinder Size D. potatoes. and the Nordic microclimate give the clothbound cheddar techniques. wheel Weight and Shape 171⁄2lb (8kg). milk a richer. 12in (30cm). or mix into mashed walnuts for a succulent dessert. dry Riesling. or Zinfandel. or icewine. H. or try it beef sandwiches. is of fruit and nuts. 8in (20cm) Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Blue Producer Fromagerie La Vache à Maillotte Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Moonstruck Organic Cheese Producer Cows Inc. Its producers believe that funky cow-inspired T-shirts. of its long aging. and HOW TO ENJOY Melt on open-faced roast Pilsner. TASTING NOTES The delicate subtle blue TASTING NOTES The gray-green rind bears ﬂavor has a sweet milk aroma. British Columbia Age 60–75 days Age 12–18 months Age 30–45 days Weight and Shape 71⁄2lb (3. and has the taste of cream ﬁnish. 91⁄2in (24cm). the pasture’s shorter growing season into cheesemaking using traditional including this Brie-style blue. 2in (5cm) 310 Milk Ewe Size D. or under an ordinary broiler. and a slight cultured off-white paste with a few pinholes. Québec CANADA Charlottetown. full ﬂavor lingering herbs. scrape onto a crusty baguette. soft white. Enjoy with ale or Merlot. The aroma buttery texture. Sauvignon Blanc. Its richness and yellow Its nutty aroma and sweet. Prince Edward Island CANADA Salt Spring Island. the in Québec’s far north Abitibi region. 2in (5cm). H. a THE AMERICAS TASTING NOTES The large wheel has an the impressions of the cloth. The cheese’s off-white interior are derived from the unique make it very addictive. round Size D. an unusual location for dairy sheep known for its delicious ice cream and hard. amber ale. has moved from their farm on Salt Spring Island.5kg). HOW TO ENJOY Melt on a special raclette HOW TO ENJOY Savor with a glass of grill. H. Québec CANADA Saint-Benoît-du-Lac. to 2 months. this aged fresh goat p239) and has a layer of red Espelette this blue won Grand Champion at the cheese is eaten from 10 days old up chili pepper sprinkled through the 2000 Canadian Cheese Grand Prix. Many cheese can be used in a spicy version of Canadian sommeliers match this HOW TO ENJOY Melt the young cheese into raclette with steamed vegetables. the older CANADA and mild—until your taste buds detect salt. a Benedictine monastery set cheese based on the famed Crottin goat’s-milk version of Swiss raclette (see among woodlands on the edge of a lake. H. H. wheel Weight and Shape 4lb (1. the heat and spiciness of the pepper. H. leeks. with light brown and gray molds on the HOW TO ENJOY Serve melted over a rind and a piquant aftertaste. or try with grilled sausage. an aroma of mold and herbal. wheel Age 10–60 days Size D. and a lingering spicy. or shrimp. Age 45–60 days Age 3–5 months Québec Weight and Shape 4lb (1. HOW TO ENJOY This delicious melting juicy steak with a red wine jus. CANADA Mont-Laurier. balances the saltiness of the cheese.8kg). 2in (5cm). scrambled eggs with chives. proﬁle is quite amazing. cheese is more dense in consistency. The wine’s sweetness perfectly chanterelles. TASTING NOTES Blue Bénédictin has TASTING NOTES The thin line of red pronounced streaks and patches of TASTING NOTES Creamy when young. Chardonnay or Pilsner matches well. salty tang. An artisanal farmstead-produced versions of European classics. The change in its ﬂavor center like a spicy Morbier (see p67). champion with another Canadian icon. or a Merlot would be a good match. 2in (5cm) 311 Classiﬁcation Flavor-added Classiﬁcation Blue Milk Goat Producer Fromagerie Le P’tit Train du Nord Producer Abbaye Saint-Benoît-du-Lac Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Producer Ferme Tourilli .La Barre du Jour Bleu Bénédictin Bouquetin de Portneuf Québec cheesemakers are creating new Produced at Abbaye Saint-Benoît-du. and puréed garlic. Québec CANADA Saint-Raymond de Portneuf. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. cylinder Milk Goat Milk Cow’s milk Size D. 8in (20cm). This is a Lac. A dark beer icewine. with beautifully offsets the ivory-white blue-green veins throughout the a rich. and the ﬂavors are delicate off-white paste. lingering ﬂavor and a slight interior.7kg). de Chavignol. 8in (20cm). 4in (10cm) Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (95g). barnyard aroma. Goat’s.and ewe’s-milk soaked in alcohol. Le Cabanon Le Cendré des Prés Cheddar Curds This artisanal farmstead cheese is This Camembert-style cheese was Eastern Canadian Cheddar makers made by Fromagerie La Moutonnière. It is wrapped in both maple local Ayrshire cow’s milk and has a salty snack popular with their regular and grape leaves that have ﬁrst been decorative layer of maple ash patrons. Québec CANADA Berthierville. Bake until the poutine—French fries with white and a sliced baguette. 8in (20cm). paste melts delicately on the palate. Beaujolais. or crumble into pastry is golden. powder. Pilsner is best savored with this dish. Size D. HOW TO ENJOY The cheesemaker suggests HOW TO ENJOY As a snack. It is produced using curds were a delicious squeaky and in Québec.5kg). H. herbs. versions are now appearing in stores. a lingering grassy ﬂavor. such as eau de vie. wheel Weight and Shape 9oz (250g) bags. seared pork tenderloin. Riesling. whole roasted garlic cloves. H. and the soft The rind is soft and slightly spongy. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. or in the Québécois dish white wine. velouté sauce. ﬁrst made by Fromagerie Domaine discovered that the fresh unpressed one of the pioneers of ewe’s-milk cheese Féodal in 2001. CANADA Sainte-Hélène-de-Chester. or cheddar curds. Enjoy with an ale. Québec CANADA All over Age 30 days Age 45–55 days Age Best within 48 hours of being made Weight and Shape 41⁄2oz (130g). or maple seasoning. you paste has a sweet aroma and mushroom colored curds must be squeaky to be discover an ivory-white rindless cheese. topped with a brown salads with a light vinaigrette. TASTING NOTES Upon unwrapping the TASTING NOTES The soft. 11⁄2in (4cm) ﬁnger-shaped 312 Milk Ewe Milk Cow Size No size Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Classiﬁcation Soft white Milk Cow Producer Fromagerie La Moutonnière Producer Fromagerie Domaine Féodale Classiﬁcation Fresh Producer Various . the ash adds a great visual good. 4in (10cm). still warm HOW TO ENJOY Serve with a crisp Viognier stufﬁng the cheese into a ﬁlo-wrapped from the vat. Some are ﬂavored with garlic A slight herbal aroma introduces you to component when the cheese is cut. round Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1. barbecue or souvlaki spices. running through its center. creamy off-white TASTING NOTES The white or orange- THE AMERICAS small cheese from its leafy cover. ﬂavor. rich Guernsey milk gives the supple has a smooth. and the pink-orange rind. freeze outdoors.Comfort Cream Le Cru des Erables Le Délice des Niagara Peninsula’s Upper Canada Inﬂuenced by the aromas of its Appalaches Cheese Company. or serve on a beverage such as hard cider. Ontario CANADA Mont-Laurier. H. satiny texture. and a undertones and a slight barn aroma. before being pressed to produce this regional specialty. W. sweet syrup—then washed in a based Québec drink. mild ﬂavor with a slight lactic aftertaste. wheel Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg). Remove HOW TO ENJOY Melt over mushrooms HOW TO ENJOY Serve with an apple-based the rind. It melts very well. Serve with winter snack. making Normandy seafood fondue. where the sap is boiled and reduced to with ice cider. the ﬁrst in the recent surroundings. HOW TO ENJOY Bake in buttery ﬁllo pastry with local wine jelly. sauces to accompany pork dishes. square Size D. this washed-rind cheese Named after the nearby Appalaches wave of new artisanal cheesemakers in is made in an old maple syrup shanty— mountain range. Matches well with amber it ideal for fondue or in béchamel a Niagara Peninsula Chardonnay. H. the cheese is washed Ontario. Québec Age 30–45 days Age 45–60 days Age 45–60 days Weight and Shape 10oz (300g). buttery ﬂavor. cheese to produce a variation of a grilled slice of baguette as a great or ice cider. Apples are left to a single herd of local Guernsey cows. local maple sap liqueur. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. supple and velvety CANADA interior a delicate. CANADA Jordan Station. persistent ﬂavor has beefy texture. Milk Cow Milk Cow H. 5in (12cm). a unique frozen apple- style cheese. 1in (3cm) Size L. the light yellow paste TASTING NOTES A pale orange rind. Québec CANADA Plessisville. full. 5in (12cm). It is made using milk from a thick. and melt the paste with other sautéed with garlic. wheel Weight and Shape 7oz (200g). TASTING NOTES The warm yellow paste TASTING NOTES Beneath the pale has a subtle mushroom aroma. 8in (20cm). 2in (5cm) 313 Classiﬁcation Soft white Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Cow Producer Upper Canada Cheese Company Producer Les Fromages de l’Erablière Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Fromagerie Éco-Délices . Calvados. ale or Baco Noir red wine. produces this Camembert. 8in (20cm). while the off-white paste. scents of apples and nuts. It goes well with a wheat beer HOW TO ENJOY Great on a cheese board. salty aroma. or melted on potatoes. A Belgian- with icewine. and grapes. a visiting brother from the Abbaye any mold under the wax. The pale TASTING NOTES Washed in brine. Agropur.5kg). silky texture. it becomes HOW TO ENJOY Serve on a cheese platter more meaty. piquant. H. a light yellow pinholed paste. Québec. who recommend that you slice Okanagan Valley. and. in pasta. CANADA Upper Economy.5cm) Size D. Port-du-Salut in France. Dragon’s Breath Blue Harvest Moon OKA Classique This small black bell of blue cheese Gitta Sutherland makes this washed. spicy blue aroma. Hoek. supple. TASTING NOTES Under the black wax. wheel Size D. renowned for its using methods taught to the monks by off the top and inhale. 1in (2. characteristic of washed a tangerine-colored. With age. sticky rind with bitterness or harshness—despite what cheeses. the province’s largest dairy cooperative. with a subtle creamy and delicate cream ﬂavor. 4in (10cm). tarts. and a its name might imply. and barnyardy. Québec Age 30–45 days Age 30–40 days Age 45–75 days Weight and Shape 7oz (200g). Pair or Okanagan Chardonnay. One of Canada’s best-known cheeses. HOW TO ENJOY Stuff it into ravioli with with frozen grapes and candied or spicy leeks. H. 10in (25cm). 21⁄2in (6cm). or dry Riesling. if there is bountiful harvest of apples. H. THE AMERICAS the white paste has a few holes and a a buttery aroma. 2in (5cm) 314 Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Blue Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer That Dutchman’s Farm Producer Poplar Grove Cheese Company Producer Agropur Cooperative . beer. style beer is a good accompaniment. wheel Weight and Shape 5lb (2. mix it in.5cm) Size D. or stir it into freshly cooked walnuts. covered in a thick black wax coating rind cheese only at the full moon. Nova Scotia CANADA Penticton. this was originally produced at the is made by Maja and Willem van den Poplar Grove is in British Columbia’s Trappist monastery in Oka. TASTING NOTES The pale yellow paste has now produces it commercially. nutty. nuts. or use to top dried apricots. 3in (7. but no orange rind. cylinder Weight and Shape 7oz (190g). gives it a slight salty aroma. this has saltiness and lingering ﬂavors. British Columbia CANADA Oka. or use in sauces. H. wheel Size D. moist texture perfect for grilling. 1in (2. summer savory. had berries. introduced in (see p58). 2003 by Jocelyn Labbe.and shaped wheel. When of saltiness. HOW TO ENJOY Grate over potatoes. HOW TO ENJOY Superb on a cheese board. disc Weight and Shape 1lb 10oz (750g). and a touch of of Sylvan Star’s cheese are made with all but died out before it was revived in gray-green mold. A light white wine works or broiled. wheel Weight and Shape 4oz (115g). chili pepper. A fruity white or a Merlot Match with a big red or a strong beer. soups. 1⁄2in (1cm) Size D. 3in (7cm). Alberta CANADA Île d’Orléans. With age. and is made with milk from its own herd. 8in (20cm).5cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Ewe 315 Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Flavor-added Producer Sylvan Star Cheese Producer Les Fromages de l’Îsle d’Orléans Producer Monforte Dairy . or pan-fried with maple-caramelized apples. would be a good complement. and mesclun. the milk proteins the sweetness of fresh milk and a hint has a delicate. the paste aroma is evident and the cheese has a HOW TO ENJOY Serve fresh with fruit. juniper sight of Alberta’s Rocky Mountains. TASTING NOTES Over the two-year TASTING NOTES Lemon-fresh taste with TASTING NOTES Piacere’s white interior maturing period. smoked salmon. mushrooms. 14in (36cm). slightly sweet ﬂavor caramelize to a light brown color. becomes very soft and creamy. H. well with this salty cheese. Ontario Age 2 years Age 3–10 days Age 30–45 days Weight and Shape 22lb (10kg). All the Île d’Orléans near Québec City. ewe’s milk from local Mennonite farms. Try with sautéed onions and shiitake but Piacere also melts well when baked pasta. and casseroles. this cheese is coated with Dutch artisanal cheesemaker. sweet-savory tang. ﬂavors provided by the herb. H. a sweet cultured-cream spice-coated rind.Old Grizzly Le Paillasson de l’Îsle Piacere This aged traditional Gouda-style d’Orléans Similar to a Corsican Fleur du Maquis cheese is made by an award-winning This simple fresh cheese. CANADA Red Deer. within 1635 by the ﬁrst French colonists on rosemary. 4in (10cm) Size D. Québec CANADA Millbank. This cheese has a ﬁrm but that balances well with the lingering CANADA you break a piece off the large boulder. wrinkly rind. washed rind hides a supple. Québec CANADA Compton. Their raw milk is used France and Switzerland. Serve dry Riesling make good partners. H. with crisp whites.8kg). or melted on crusty bread and served HOW TO ENJOY An attractive cheese with thinly sliced cucumber or leafy HOW TO ENJOY Best when melted over board choice that also bakes superbly. wheel Weight and Shape 8lb (3. or light beer. rosé. H. 10in (26cm). TASTINGS NOTES The copper-colored TASTING NOTES The soft. cheeses of the Loire. Prestige Raclette de Compton Le Sabot de Fromages Chaput makes an interesting au Poivre Blanchette range of raw cow’s. 7in (17. 11⁄2in (4cm). umami notes.5kg). THE AMERICAS interior is covered in black olivewood ash overlaid by white and gray molds. that is made to appeal to those who carefully managed and fed a complex using recipes from their homelands. La Station and pasteurized cheese from their Prestige is a large aged fresh cheese has a herd of 70 Holstein cows that is own herd of cows and goats since 1995. elastic with a delicate sweetness counteracts aromatic. and slightly peppery taste. 5in (12.5cm). wheel Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (150g). Included in making award-winning French among these is Le Sabot. interior with tiny holes. Quebec CANADA Saint-Roch-de-l’Achigan. or onto crusty bread. with molds appear on the thin. H. green salad. dense white mountain-style cheeses. generations of Bolducs. 21⁄2in (6cm) Size D. based on the TASTING NOTES The smooth.5cm) Size D. Its ﬂavors range the lactic goaty aromas. organic diet. As it ages. 3in (7cm) 316 Milk Goat Milk Cow. HOW TO ENJOY Perfect for a cheese board. satiny texture adding complexity to the cheese’s fresh.and goat’s-milk Farmed and improved by four The Guitels have been making raw cheeses based on French artisan recipes. pyramid Size D. blue from buttery sweet to savory. like a distinctly goaty cheese. paired with charcuterie and pickles. Both Sauvignon Blanc and boiled potatoes. and especially in quiches and tarts. CANADA Châteauguay. Québec Age 45–60 days Age 3–4 months Age 30–45 days Weight and Shape 4lb (1. organic Milk Goat Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Producer Fromages Chaput Producer Fromagerie Le Station Producer Fromagerie La Suisse Normande . 5 kg). Today. HOW TO ENJOY This is superb on its own. La Sauvagine is a was established in 1885 on the banks of de Duplessis is Atlantic Canada’s only double-cream cheese washed in brine. rind surrounds a ﬁrm. white. the ﬂavor becomes more intense. slow aging notes from the pastures.La Sauvagine Seven-Year-Old Sieur de Duplessis Made by La Fromagerie Alexis de Orange Cheddar Pressed and washed in brine. hard cheese is regularly found served a hard cheese and lends its sweetness The creamy richness goes well with with apple pie. Enjoy with strong ale. 8in (20cm). wheel Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb (2. it has all the versatility of melts well. CANADA Saint-Raymond-de-Portneuf. Québec CANADA Pine River. to TASTING NOTES The mottled golden brown give it a bright mandarin-orange color. 4in (10cm) 317 Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Cow Milk Ewe Producer La Fromagerie Alexis de Portneuf Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Pine River Cheese and Butter Co-op Producer La Bergerie aux 4 Vents . H. wheel Milk Cow H. stout. As the cheese CANADA orange rind with its dusting of white process causes calcium crystals to form. W. The washed TASTING NOTES The long. fruity red. Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg). then aged Portneuf. an Ontario favorite. 12in (30cm). it almost runny. a large-scale producer of A farmer-owned cooperative. rich. Pine River for a period of up to nine months. the river of the same name near Lake unpasteurized ewe’s milk cheese. H. 8in (20cm). especially when broiled. or Indian Pale Ale. block Age 3–9 months Size D. barnyardy taste. 10in (25cm). with ﬂoral a hint of mushrooms. and buttery. yellow interior that has the sweet. has a rustic. providing a ﬂavor burst and sharp tang. to any dish. 18in (45cm) Size D. Match with a full-bodied ale or a juicy red from Cahors. dry and crumbly. 1in (3cm) Size L. with nutty taste of ewe’s milk. dense pale TASTING NOTES The added cream makes then aged for seven years. New Age 30–45 days Age 7 years Brunswick Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg). Sieur numerous cheeses. business and is colored with annatto. HOW TO ENJOY Although this is almost too but its supple texture means it also HOW TO ENJOYThis extremely versatile good to cook. ages. The texture is hard. cheddar is its main Canadian Cheese Grand Prix. or porter. Ontario CANADA Sainte-Marie-de-Kent. It won Grand Champion at the 2006 Huron. with a rich meaty ﬁnish. it softens and becomes creamy great crumbled over salads. lemon juice and scalding the curds in homes and large factories. TASTING NOTES It is very white. 31⁄2in (9cm) W. MEXICO All over MEXICO All over MEXICO All over Age 2–8 months Age From a few days Age From 1 to 5 days Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb–11lb (5–10kg) Weight and Shape Various Weight and Shape Various rounds or blocks Size Various Size L.” and it is fresco. or crumbled over soups or or used as a ﬁlling in many Mexican carne. saltiness somewhere between ricotta heat when rolled in paprika. 31⁄2in (9cm) 318 Size Various Milk Cow H. and mild with herbaceous notes that are heightened a buttery mild ﬂavor. but it will not melt. and tacos. 3⁄4in ( 2. made by coagulating the milk with lightly pressing the cheese. to make a cold sauce for boiled potatoes. consumed within a few days as it has originally made purely with goat’s Resembling a cross between salty a high moisture content. enchiladas. slightly grainy. then to be made with goat’s and cow’s milk.” queso anejo Simply meaning “white cheese. Made by milk. and deﬁnite elastic to the bite. and feta. yet crumbly with age and has mild TASTING NOTES Lemon fresh and with spongy. HOW TO ENJOY Used as a topping for HOW TO ENJOY Grated or shredded onto spicy dishes such as enchiladas and HOW TO ENJOY Crumbled over enchiladas various dishes including chili con empanadas. creamy.” Introduced by the Spanish. or cow and goat Classiﬁcation Fresh Milk Cow or Goat Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various Classiﬁcation Fresh Producer Various Producer Various .5cm) Milk Goat. a salty bite.MEXICO Queso Anejo Queso Blanco Queso Fresco Meaning “aged cheese. THE AMERICAS TASTING NOTES It becomes ﬁrm. when heated. before pressing and kneading them. It is also salads. it is made due to demand. though nowadays it is more likely cottage cheese and mozzarella. chewy.” and was throughout Mexico and Latin America. it is ﬁrm and a fresh lemony acidity and slight when cooked. or “fresh cheese. it is curdling cow’s and goat’s milk. its name is simply an aged version of queso this skim-milk cheese is prevalent means simply “fresh cheese. In Peru it is melted with spices dishes. 2in (5cm) Size D. pizzas. red or black wax. this cheese is easily spreadable. thinly sliced as a snack. 6in (16cm). 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. 41⁄2in (11cm) 319 Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Fresh and aged fresh Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Various Producer Laticínios Catupiry® Ltda Producer Various . it is sprinkled onto various local with French bread. Italian pecorino. which it emulates. state in Brazil. 31⁄2in (9cm). salty taste with a a white center with age. grainy texture small producers. and TASTING NOTES Hard but less grainy than very mild salty tang and hint of lemon creamy. HOW TO ENJOY A great snacking cheese. It takes its name and basic recipe Gerais region of Brazil. H. ARGENTINA BRAZIL Queijo Minas Requeijão Cremoso Sardo A household staple in the hilly Minas This very popular and now mass. TASTING NOTES Soft and moist with a TASTING NOTES Soft white. BRAZIL Minas Gerais BRAZIL Minas Gerais ARGENTINA All over Age From 4 to 10 days (to a few months Age From 4 to 10 days (to a few months Age 9–18 months when aged) when aged) Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb–11lb (3–5kg) Weight and Shape Various Weight and Shape Various drum Size D. it is made with cow’s milk BRAZIL AND ARGENTINA the region with the Portuguese a secret recipe and is now synonymous and the thin rind is waxed with explorers of the 1500s. Made by thousands of Silvestrini who developed the cheese and although its hard. it has a richness in on the palate. It can also be used as a dessert. lingering raw onion bite on the ﬁnish. it HOW TO ENJOY An excellent grating HOW TO ENJOY Usually eaten at breakfast can be eaten on bread or crackers. bread buns stuffed with cheese. which produces produced cheese can be traced back to from the famous Italian sheep cheese more coffee and milk than any other an Italian immigrant named Mario Pecorino Sardo. the cheese arrived in back in 1911. a deeper tang and slight bitterness. or ﬁlling in the traditional pão de queijo. with the large manufacturer Catupiry. The cheese is made using is similar. or even on dishes as well as pasta and salads. as a cheese. 5in (12cm). tangy. and develops but without the sweet taste. it becomes yellow with with the consistency of cream cheese the mouth and sharp. it can be used as a stufﬁng in savory pastries. H. H. DOP. or PDO cheeses Produced only here Produced throughout the region . XINJIANG Beijing Red. Tomme de Beijing BEIJING INNER MONGOLIA SHANXI QINGHAI SHAANXI SICHUAN JIANGXI HUNAN GUIZHOU N 500 miles GUANGXI YUNNAN Ru-bing (Milk Cake) GUANGDONG HEILONGJIANG XINJIANG JAPAN CHINA HAINAN Key YUNNAN ★ AOC. DOC. PGI. the cheese makers are experimenting and washing cheese in sake or green tea or decorating them with cherry blossoms and selling them in their own small shops and cafés. Whatever their reasons. Petit Nuage. the need for milk has risen dramatically. Emmental. Sakura PUJIAN JAPAN Mori No Cheese. most cheeses were processed.7 million dairy farms. Hokkaido. Japan’s northernmost island. and overall SHANDONG there are nearly 200 small farms and factories producing cheese across Japan. However. As a result. production cannot keep pace with demand. but increasingly. but since the year 2000. Serendipity Camembleu HONSHU Provolone Kachokabaro SHIKOKU KYUSHU 100 miles 100 km . as the Western diet intrudes on tradition. and Edam. or perhaps because of their proliﬁc use of soy milk. JAPAN Yama No Cheese JIANGSU Potaje ZHEJIANG HOKKAIDO Robiora. subsidies and technical support from the government have led to an increase of cheesemakers. now boasts more than 100 cheesemakers. dairy products were virtually unknown until the 20th century and cheese is still viewed with suspicion except in Yunnan Province. JAPAN Initially. LIAONING CHINA AND JAPAN CHINA It is widely believed that the ancient Chinese avoided dairy products to draw a line between themselves and the barbarians who roamed their borders. Most cheeses are based on classic European cheeses like Camembert. even with over 1. CHINA Beijing CHINA Yunnan Province (SW China) CHINA Beijing Age 3–5 weeks Age From a few days Age 3–4 months Weight and Shape 41⁄2oz (125g). TASTINGS NOTES Its sticky terra-cotta the curds are soft and slightly elastic TASTINGS NOTES More like the mountain rind. cow and goat milk cheeses. Liu Yang in a city of 24 million people was no made by hundreds of small producers spent time with various artisan easy feat. washed in white wine. round Weight and Shape Various. Liu Yang for their own use or to sell at local cheesemakers learning unique cheese went to France to get a degree. and a texture somewhere paste with small scattered holes. practice in his own country. This wrapping the curd around sticks to dry. 3in (8. where cows was one of my favorites. between tofu and halloumi. round 322 Milk Cow or goat Milk Goat or ewe Size D. 1in (2. a superb Chinese cheese board. 21⁄2in (6cm) Classiﬁcation Semi-soft. it has a ﬁrm dries out and ﬂakes in Beijing’s heat. square or brick Weight and Shape 13⁄4lb–21⁄4lb Size D.CHINA Beijing Red Ru-bing or Milk Cake Tomme de Beijing Finding Beijing’s only cheesemaker This fresh. Also found stir-fried HOW TO ENJOY With eight very different a glass of white wine or beer. quickly with a delicate milky ﬂavor that hints cheeses of northern Italy. listening with Yunnan ham or other ingredients. He has put these into to introduce cheese to the Chinese. ﬂavor is fresh. with mouth-watering and savory with a hint of wine. C H I N A A N D JA PA N TASTINGS NOTES Curdled with vinegar.5cm) Size Various (850g–1kg). acidity and notes of vanilla and licorice HOW TO ENJOY Typically pan-fried and with a nutty or buttery ﬁnish. washed Classiﬁcation Fresh Milk Cow Producer Le Fromager de Pekin Producers Various small and large producers Classiﬁcation Hard Producers Le Fromager de Pekin . of goat milk.5cm). lightly salted cheese is During his time in Corsica. Makes great street food. or salt and gardens of the Summer Palace with Sichuan pepper. smooth. graze on dry feed and supplements. H. HOW TO ENJOY In the beautiful formal dipped in rose-petal jam. H. The but the interior is supple. these make to traditional Chinese music. but markets and to restaurants. but it was worth it. Ru-shan or skills and the secret of bringing out came back a cheesemaker determined “milk fans” are made by stretching and the best in milk. 7in (18cm). TASTINGS NOTES The combination of the Mori is the Japanese word for “forest. which of Brown Swiss cows that graze the purple-blue mold through the center. Holstein) Size D.5cm) (pictured) Classiﬁcation Blue Classiﬁcation Semi-soft. another in sake lees.” JA PA N well with the spicy. and rakoret (raclette). teardrop or pear round Milk Cow (Jersey.5cm) (500g–850g). slightly mushroomy taste TASTING NOTES It has a hard edible rind. ricotta. it with jam or honey. This is basically Made by one of Japan’s most renowned Made from the milk of a single herd a Camembert with broken streaks of cheesemakers. 4in (11cm). With age the TASTING NOTES Supple with lots of is ﬂuffy rather than crusty. including one washed in miso. then melt or grate and cheese goes well with a light Japanese use in various recipes. the Italian cheese cheese has a sticky. The rind milky ﬂavor when young. Yoshida Farm. 57⁄8in (15cm) Size Various. cheese a darker color and richer taste. so the name literally means “cheese of of the Camembert-type cheese goes ﬁrm. this washed-rind makes a range of excellent raw-milk it is Caciocavallo.” mild. straw-colored ﬁbrous texture. 41⁄2in (10. Nagano JAPAN Kaga-gun Kibi Chuo. Nagano Age 3–4 weeks Age 2–3 months Age 3–8 weeks Weight and Shape 9oz (250g). made in the shape of a small gourd. taste becomes dense with umami. both aroma and taste are reminiscent of fallen leaves in the forest. and the forest. Okayama JAPAN Matsumoto. giving the mozzarella. creamy. rind dusted with blue-gray molds. slightly moldy is slightly sour with a rich lingering taste and aroma of the blue. Size D.5cm). HOW TO ENJOY Excellent with medium- beer or glass of sake. 11⁄2in 323 Milk Cow (3. JAPAN Camembleu Kachokabaro Mori No Cheese Established over 30 years ago. JAPAN Mihari. round Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–1lb 14oz Weight and Shape 9–101⁄2oz (250–300g). and almost any on a brochette. H. pasta ﬁlata Milk Cow Producers Atelier de Fromage Producer Yoshida Farm Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Shimizu Farm . H. to full-bodied red wine or rice wine. L. small eyes. 41⁄2in (11cm). 1in (2. HOW TO ENJOY The Japanese seem to love HOW TO ENJOY Cut into chunks and put with a wonderful strong robust ﬂavor. D. mandarin-orange cheeses. also makes a Camembert. Atelier Say the name aloud and you realize A Japanese original. fresh high mountain pastures. which is Gakusha Shintoku Farm. It and serve with soy sauce. 81⁄2in (22cm).5cm). JAPAN Unnan. H 2in (4. drum Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb–31⁄4lb (1–1. or on Okuizumo beef. 1in (2. known as Sakura Europe has led to the development of the same name (see p134). When ripe aroma. C H I N A A N D JA PA N TASTING NOTES It has a sweet.5cm) 324 Milk Cow Size D. TASTING NOTES It is a strong. H. oysters. which is based on refers to the reddish hue that develops pink. such as Pinot Noir. it becomes creamy beneath the soft meaty cheese with the classic supple rind and the aroma deepens.5cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Soft White Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Kisuki Nyugyo Producer Kyodo Gakusha Shintoku Farm Producer Shiranuka Farm . a ﬁne. slightly smoked of Hokkaido. H. and a subtle smoky melt-in-the-mouth feel. Try baking it on rice HOW TO ENJOY This elegant addition to a cakes. Weight and Shape 3oz (90g). 3in (8cm). HOW TO ENJOY The taste is more intense texture of washed-rind cheeses. grappa (grape-based spirit). or with potatoes. when cooked. or locally made grape jam. round round Size D. Robiola in Japan. Hokkaido JAPAN Shiranuka Gun. Hokkaido Age 1–3 months Age 4–8 weeks Age 2–4 weeks Weight and Shape 13oz (380g). inspired the cheesemaker to the famous Italian stretched curd on the rind as a result of washing with create Japan’s ﬁrst original cheese. lemony with a wax-covered rind. melted situated near the coast on the east side butter taste. especially those made with local HOW TO ENJOY It is delicious grilled on cheese board can be served with green rice. TASTING NOTES Mild. cheese of the same name (see p130). and year paints the country cotton-candy such as this one. Provolone Robiola Sakura The expense of importing cheese from Based on the popular Italian cheese The cherry blossom. It also works wine. 23⁄4 in (6.5kg). 1in (2. full-bodied red tea or red wine.5cm) Size D. Nitamai. is also great with grilled Kobe beef. It is Produced on the cooperative Kyodo produced by Shiranuka Farm. Shimane JAPAN Shiranuka Gun. which for just a week every of many great Japanese alternatives means “to become red” in Italian. well when baked with honey. pungent. 31⁄2in (9cm). Its deep yellow color is the result of the lush. “small cloud” in French.” and that graze on the Japanese Alps in the this cheese is loosely based on the village of Hakuba. wheel TASTINGS NOTES Light and crumbly Size D. Its name. from goats Yama means “of the mountain. It is also served with coffee. infused Producer Kaze No Tani Farm Classiﬁcation Hard with the scent of the fresh herbs. “kitchen garden. 14in (36cm). the fresh cheese is turned out of its molds bearing the imprint of the basket weave. this cheese is very white and very mild. salad. round Size D. 1in (2. 21⁄2in (6cm). especially zucchini or eggplant.5cm) Milk Goat Classiﬁcation Fresh Producers Ranran Farm. Once formed they are cheeses made in the French Alps. aromatic taste 325 Classiﬁcation Fresh Milk Cow from the lovely goat’s milk. Produced from spring to fall. who fell green label. It JAPAN Matsumoto. Classiﬁcation Fresh TASTING NOTES Long afﬁnage gives it a Producer Shimizu Farm TASTING NOTES The mild taste combines ﬁrm. but can be crumbled and grilled over fresh vegetables. with the sweetness of milk. ﬂat round locally grown herbs. H 4in (10cm) texture with a subtle. Potaje HOW TO ENJOY Best enjoyed with a little oil on fresh bread.2cm). almost mousse- like ﬁne curd feels like eating a cloud. Hokkaido Tokachi Millennium Forest. thyme that cover the cheese are from the garden. and subtle rice oil nutty. rich lingering ﬂavor and aroma. Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (160g). Weight and Shape 7oz (200g). HOW TO ENJOY This cheese is best suited for a cheese board. the North Island of Japan. roasted green tea. Producer Mitomo Farm A lemony ﬁnish. Nagano removed from their small round molds is made on the most eastern part of Age 2–10 days and preserved in pots with rice oil and Hokkaido. giving milk Age From 10 days to a few months Age 6–18 months with a sweet. 1in (3. mild taste. The goats at Ranran Farm graze against the beautiful backdrop of the JAPAN Matsumoto. Petit Nuage is made from the whey of Brown Swiss cows. HOW TO ENJOY It is delicious as a dessert Serendipity Yama No Cheese with jam or honey or in savory dishes. jars Weight and Shape 22–25lb (10–11kg). or spread on rice HOW TO ENJOY Delicious on a cheese plate The name Potaje or “potage” means crackers with a glass of rosé. Yagi Cheese . green summer pastures. or Hakushaku potatoes. TASTING NOTES Made by heating the fresh whey. H. such as pasta or quiche. gives a delicate ﬂavor.5cm) by Australian Robert Alexander.5cm) Milk Goat Size D. Milk Cow in love with Japan. The farm is owned Look for the 16-months-plus Size D. 2in (5. The light. JAPAN Tokachi Millennium Forest Age from 7–10 days Weight and Shape 3oz (90g). Nagano JAPAN Shibetsu Gun. refers to its small size and white appearance. H 1in (2. Petit Nuage Based on the Corsican cheese Brocciu. delicate. compact texture and a complex. After draining.” as the rosemary and good in salads. JA PA N well with the herbs. H. NORTHERN TERRITORY QUEENSLAND AUSTRALIA SOUTH AUSTRALIA NEW SOUTH WALES GREAT AUSTRALIAN BIGHT Washington Washrind Woodside Edith N 200 miles Holy Goat La Luna. Holy Goat Pandora 200 km Richard Thomas Fromage Blanc. AUSTRALIA Roaring Forties. Heidi Farm Raclette TASMAN SEA VICTORIA TASMANIA TASMANIA NEW ZEALAND Bruny Island C2. Strzelecki Blue Stormy WESTERN QUEENSLAND BASS STRAIT AUSTRALIA PACIFIC OCEAN SOUTH AUSTRALIA Healey’s Pyengana NEW SOUTH WALES Heidi Farm Gruyère. Yarra Valley Dairy Persian Fetta VICTORIA Meredith Blue Shaw River Buffalo Mozzarella Ironstone Extra INDIAN OCEAN NORTHERN Gunnamatta Gold Gippsland Blue. Bruny Island Lewis . TERRITORY CORAL SEA Jenson’s Red Washed Rind. southeastern coastal regions. that cooperatives made cheddar and butter for export. When Dutch cheesemakers migrated to New Zealand in the 1980s with their traditional recipes. PGI. Eliza Red Leicester Meyer Vintage Gouda NORTH ISLAND Cilantro Fresh Chevre Waimata Camembert TASMAN SEA Meadowcroft Farm Goat’s Curd Hohepa Danbo. Parihaka Mt Tamahunga. by the 1920s. the revival of small-scale artisan cheesemaking began. With a growing awareness of the wider cheese world. Milk production mostly takes place in cooler. NEW ZEALAND Mahoe Vintage Edam. and the ﬁrst dairy factory opened in Edendale in 1882. Although low-cost industrial production.CORAL SEA AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND Gympie Farmhouse Chèvre AUSTRALIA Although Australian dairy farming began when the ﬁrst ﬂeet landed in Sydney Cove in 1788. DOC. cheesemakers began producing alternatives to the great cheeses of Europe and creating unique artisanal cheeses. St Benedict the Black Burrata. quarantine. Mt. demand has resulted in adaptations of European recipes to Australian conditions during the past two decades. Pink and White Terraces Kinzell Creek. it was not until the end of the gold rush. NEW ZEALAND European migrants to New Zealand in the early 1800s had to bring cattle and cheesemaking skills with them. Buffalo Mozzarella Crescent Dairy Farmhouse Aroha with Fenugreek Dirty Devil Kallarney Blue Mercer Maasdam. The making and importing of raw milk cheese has only become legal in the last few years. almost a century later. Coppermine Neudorf Zany Zeus Richmond Red Halloumi SOUTH ISLAND Karikaas Vintage Leyden Barry’s Bay Cheddar Whitestone Windsor Blue Curio Bay Pecorino Evansdale Farmhouse Brie 200 miles Key ★ AOC. cheese and butter were being exported to England. or PDO cheeses Produced only here 200 km Produced throughout the region . DOP. and protective trade policies once created barriers to the production of artisanal cheeses. With refrigerated shipping. Small-scale family production of cheddar and Cheshire gave way to farmer-owned cooperatives. cheddar became a major export by the 1840s. France. H. thick natural slate-colored rind.5kg). 6in (15cm). wheel Size D.AUSTRALIA Bruny Island C2 Bruny Island Lewis Gippsland Blue Nick Haddow is passionate about This is another quirky cheese from Nick Created in 1981 at Hillcrest Farm in cheese and studied extensively in Haddow based on a mountain recipe he Gippsland.5kg). the cheese is Based on Gorgonzola. C2 was his ﬁrst cheese. 91⁄2in (24cm) 328 Milk Cow Milk Goat Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Blue Producer Bruny Island Cheese Company Producer Bruny Island Cheese Company Producer Tarago River Cheese . or as is on a cheese board. Tasmania AUSTRALIA Bruny Island. H. Tasmania AUSTRALIA Neerim South. 9 months old. of Saanen goats near Cygnet on the and is matured on wooden shelves in mainland. deliciously rich. studied in Savoie. complex nutty ﬂavor TASTING NOTES This rich and creamy blue with a hint of caramel and mouth. 8in (20cm). drum Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1. 3in (7cm) Size D. AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND south of Hobart. TASTING NOTES Ripened under an elegant. Victoria Age 9–12 months Age 4–6 months Age 2–3 months Weight and Shape 13lb (7kg). 5in (12cm). or melting. 7in (18cm) Size D. AUSTRALIA Bruny Island. when it develops a vegetable patch next to the dairy. HOW TO ENJOY Ideal cheese for sauces nutty with fresh herbal overtones. this natural gray-rind cheese Europe before settling on Bruny Island. its milk comes in 2005. is at its best when it develops a soft tingling tang. Australian late-harvest sweet wine. with his partner Leonie is produced on the island. the and sticky texture punctuated with pure white dense interior is subtly steely blue veins. It is named after a beloved special underground cellars built deep TASTING NOTES Best when at least family goat that once guarded the beneath the farm dairy. HOW TO ENJOYEnjoy simply with crusty recommended from late fall to early sourdough bread and a glass of chilled summer—to be enjoyed with an Tasmanian sparkling wine. drum Weight and Shape 12lb (5. H. Since no milk was the ﬁrst artisan Australian blue. HOW TO ENJOY A very seasonal cheese— Match with a dry Tasmanian Riesling. named made from the milk from a single herd from the farm’s Holstein Friesian cows after the vat in which it was created. such as a Mornington Peninsula and a crisp dry white wine. Tasmania Age 4–5 weeks Age 3–4 weeks Age 9–18 months Weight and Shape 9oz (250g). and served with wild arugula salad. the moist. 21⁄2in (6cm) Size D. H. L. the interior but the most sought-after are the large ﬁnish and a hint of smoke. clothbound Australian cheese. wheel Size D. cylinder Weight and Shape 401⁄2lb (18. rind cheeses. AUSTRALIA Mornington Peninsula. aromatic HOW TO ENJOY Ideal with crusty bread wine. the cheesery is only an hour in the hinterland behind the Sunshine “washed curd” Colby recipe was adopted from Melbourne and takes its name from Coast in southeast Queensland using by the Healey family and is now one of the peninsula’s best surf breaks.Gunnamatta Gold Gympie Farmhouse Healey’s Pyengana Created by Trevor and Jan Brandon at Chèvre Dating back to 1901. AUSTRALIA TASTING NOTES Beneath the slightly TASTING NOTES The rind turns a gray sticky terra-cotta rind lies a soft and dusty blue the longer the cheese is aged TASTING NOTES Made in various sizes. and a Tasmanian cider or Pinot Noir. and crusty bread. 2in (5cm). milk sourced from nearby Kingaroy. 4in (10cm). 8in (20cm) Milk Cow Milk Goat Milk Cow 329 Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Red Hill Cheese Producer Gympie Farm Cheese Producer Pyengana Cheese Factory . the to the public. Valley is the oldest surviving traditional handmade using organic milk from a renowned for its aged fresh cheeses. this venerable the tiny Red Hill cheesery on Victoria’s Camille Mortaud learned his craft in cheese from the lush George River Mornington Peninsula. it needs a spicy. has a delightful savory ﬂavor with a wheels matured for at least a year until delicious lingering goaty ﬁnish. Victoria AUSTRALIA Gympie. 12in (30cm). Queensland AUSTRALIA Pyengana. hints of pasture and honey. this cheese is the Poitou-Charentes region of France. or melted Ideal with crusty bread HOW TO ENJOY Pinot Noir. handmade from the milk of its herd of Holstein Friesian cows.5kg).5cm) Size D.1in (2. open texture develops herbal HOW TO ENJOY Like all intense washed. round Weight and Shape 4oz (110g). creamy cheese with a delicious rich and can be quite strong. farm at Fish Creek in Gippsland. H. Open and follows the traditions at Conondale Originally made by a cooperative. 11⁄2in (4cm) 330 Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Goat Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Producer Heidi Farm Producer Heidi Farm Producer Holy Goat Organic Cheeses . H. but sticky. 12in (30cm). 4in (10cm) Size D. slightly a hint of sweetness. HOW TO ENJOY A wonderful melting or enjoy cut in half and grilled in the cheese. handmade in their small dairy using Foods. complex lingering nutty ﬂavors. with a creeping. TASTING NOTES Sold at various ages. H. this is Very successfully adapted in the 1980s Holy Goat was established at Sutton Australia’s largest handmade artisan by farmer and master cheesemaker Grange Organic Farm in 2001. Great grill. 3in (7cm) Size D. H. but the cheese is still handmade. disc Size D. Heidi Farm Gruyère Heidi Farm Raclette Holy Goat La Luna Weighing in at 66lb (30kg). wheel Weight and Shape 3lb (1. AUSTRALIA Exton. lies a pure white curd with deliciously HOW TO ENJOY A delicious table cheese. 9in (23cm). slightly “smelly” terra-cotta rind at its best when aged for at least a year. organic milk from a herd of 60 very TASTING NOTES Beneath the cheese’s pampered goats. Tasmania AUSTRALIA Sutton Grange. Victoria Age 9–12 months Age 2–4 months Age 4–6 weeks Weight and Shape 66lb (30kg). this uses Friesian milk returned from studying artisan goat and cheesemaker Frank Marchand. potatoes and a dry Riesling. Luna also bakes and melts well. La with a full-bodied red wine. Tasmania AUSTRALIA Exton. when cheese and has won many accolades Frank Marchand from the traditional Carla Meurs and Anne-Marie Monda AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND since it was launched by Swiss migrant Swiss raclette. All cheese is Heidi Farm is now owned by National won many national awards. lies a creamy pliable interior with a TASTING NOTES Beneath the rind of this when its smooth. this is particularly good as a traditional manner in front of a hot HOW TO ENJOY Perfect with crusty bread base for macaroni and cheese. 18in (46cm). wrinkled gray mold nutty ﬂavor with a hint of honey. concentrated texture melange of grassy farm ﬂavors and unusual ring of goat cheese covered develops an intensely rich. Serve with Pink Eye or similar and a glass of Sauvignon Blanc.4kg). wheel Weight and Shape 8lb 13oz (4kg). from several local farms and has since cheese in Europe. and customers claim it traditional Dutch Boerenkaas recipe. it is matured on wooden Holstein Friesians. 8in (20cm). 1in (2. or serve in chunks Serve with or without the rind. develops a bright orange rind. boulder Weight and Shape 3lb (1. returned home to the family farm near This bulging soft cheese from Tarago It was created by Carla Meurs and Neerim South in Gippsland to set up a River near Neerim South in Gippsland. fall from the farm’s small herd of Holstein milk. AUSTRALIA chalky center has an irresistible soft creamy texture that rarely fails to TASTING NOTES Matured for up to two TASTING NOTES Beneath the “stinky” rind satisfy with its luxurious feel and years. Victoria Age 2–3 weeks Age 18–24 months Age 4–5 weeks Weight and Shape 7oz (200g). Anne-Marie Monda to be enjoyed at small dairy. AUSTRALIA Sutton Grange. Steven Brown Washed Rind is ripened under a cocktail of molds. and creamy ﬂavor. Victoria AUSTRALIA Drouin West. 41⁄2in (11cm) Size D. crusty bread and sparkling white wine. pairs with everything and never fails All cheese is made between spring and Made on the farm using Friesian to please. Ironstone Extra develops a with its hint of yeast and eucalyptus refreshingly mild goat ﬂavor.5cm) Milk Goat Milk Cow Milk Cow 331 Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Holy Goat Organic Cheeses Producer Piano Hill Producer Tarago River Cheese . H. with Sauvignon Blanc or rosé. 2in (5cm). cream. buttery caramel ﬂavor lies a rich fudgy texture with a mild reminiscent of shortbread. HOW TO ENJOY Cut off the lid. sensational rich. 2in (5cm) Size D. 9in (23cm). Victoria AUSTRALIA Neerin South.3kg). Ironstone is based on a Victoria. dig out the center in large dollops like clotted HOW TO ENJOY A wonderful addition to HOW TO ENJOYIdeal for a cheese board. round Size D. and enjoy with a glass of any cheese board. to ensure that the shelves and hand-washed until it TASTING NOTES At its best when the rich pastures are reﬂected in the cheese. H. cylinder Weight and Shape 11lb (5kg). with an aperitif.Holy Goat Pandora Ironstone Extra Jensen’s Red The name says it all! This small drum After studying overseas. H. is named after one of the dairy one sitting. founders—cheesemaker Laurie Jensen. H. which lies in AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND largest ﬂock of dairy ewes in Australia. Tasmania Age 8–12 months Age 1–2 days Age 10–12 weeks Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg). Victoria AUSTRALIA Yarra Valley. Victoria AUSTRALIA Loorana. drum Size D. Meredith Blue Richard Thomas Roaring Forties The ﬁrst Australian ewe’s milk blue Fromage Blanc This full-ﬂavored blue cheese is aptly was created in 1990 at the Cameron This soft. which has an enviable reputation containers that ensure that the whey wrecks are said to be responsible for for its goat’s and ewe’s milk cheeses does not sour the cheese. or with homemade preserves or HOW TO ENJOY Serve with dark rye bread. H. TASTING NOTES Ewe’s milk is highly exceptionally moist texture has the TASTING NOTES The combination of rich seasonal. 51⁄2in (14cm). AUSTRALIA Meredith. 3in (7cm) Size D. and match with a sweet fortiﬁed wine. tender hand-ladled cow’s named for the strong westerly winds family dairy using milk from the milk curd from Richard Thomas is that buffet King Island. blue roqueforti molds. quality of the milk. 71⁄2in (19cm). King Island. this dependable cheese is always very pockets of salty blue molds. 3in (8cm) Size D. drum Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (100g). with a refreshingly mild a coating of dark blue wax ensures that texture of the cheese develops dark lemony acidity.3kg). HOW TO ENJOY At its best served cold as it HOW TO ENJOY Serve with toasted walnut comes. silky. when the soft ivory interior of a dairy. 11⁄2in (4cm) 332 Milk Ewe Milk Cow Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Blue Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Blue Producer Meredith Dairy Producer Richard Thomas Producer King Island Dairy . Using Bass Strait and is famous for the many This handmade cheese is still matured milk from the Yarra Valley. fresh berries for a breakfast treat. fresh cheese at its simple best. it is shipwrecks along its isolated coast. H. bread or drizzled with local honey. and spring. 3in (7cm). pot Weight and Shape 3lb (1. TASTING NOTES Its delicate. moist in texture with a sweet salty tang. in old shipping containers next to the beautifully presented in self-draining Straw mattresses washed up from the dairy. but is at its best in early unmistakable sweet lactic perfume creamy milk. the island’s grasses and ultimately the and yogurt. melted on pizza with cracked pepper. rind has a very mild creamy ﬂavor and blue veins and the slightly sweet ﬂavor slightly salty sea-breeze ﬁnish. and buffalo into Australia in 1996 against on the windswept coast of King Island. the cheeses of Northern Europe. has a distinct savory tang. TASTING NOTES A seasonal cheese at its AUSTRALIA herd is pasture-based year-round. HOW TO ENJOYPerfect for a cheese board with vine-ripened tomatoes. 1in (2. It on the lush coastal pastures beside the creamy cheeses. Size D. HOW TO ENJOY The slightly ﬁrm texture makes it ideal for pizza. Victoria AUSTRALIA Loorana. 71⁄2in (19cm) Milk Buffalo H. it is the richest. or a Gippsland Pinot. this is named after Stormy Bay discover gold in Australia in 1835. 4in (10cm).5cm) Milk Goat 333 Classiﬁcation Fresh Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Blue Producer Shaw River Buffalo Cheese Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Tarago River Cheese Producer King Island Dairy . brick Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg). Beurain. especially beneath the “smelly” tangerine-colored creamy interior is threaded with steely late summer and early fall. and son-in-law Andrew created by cheesemaker Frank and is matured in underground cellars Royal is the cheesemaker. Stormy was originally uses milk from a single nearby farm Shaw River. 21⁄2in (6. Tasmania AUSTRALIA Neerim South. The herd grazes Tasmania. Victoria Age Within a few days of production Age 4–5 weeks Age 2–3 months Weight and Shape 1oz (50g). served with baked potatoes and beer. or accompanied by a glass of dessert wine and extra virgin olive oil. 11⁄2in (4cm). renowned for its rich and now attached to this striking blue. sweetest milk produced TASTING NOTES The soft. fresh basil. using techniques borrowed beneath the dairy. AUSTRALIA Yambuk. Also delicious HOW TO ENJOY Great on a cheese board. it seems appropriate that his name is all odds and red tape. H. 31⁄2in (9cm). with optimum with spring or fall milk. W.5cm) Size L. from the traditional washed-rind TASTING NOTES Unlike in Europe. King Island. buttery paste quick to mature and best when its soft during the warmer months. 8in (20cm). drum Size D.Shaw River Buffalo Stormy Strzelecki Blue Mozzarella Another great Australian washed-rind Pawel Strzelecki was the ﬁrst person to Roger Haldene imported the ﬁrst dairy cheese. H. ball Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (150g). tin Size D. drum Weight and Shape 9oz (250g). TASTING NOTES Deliciously nutty when are marinated in a powerful garlicky Beneath the sticky rind lies a smooth young. but the AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND winemaking travels in Europe. quality. fresh thyme. steamed vegetables. smooth clotted texture. 21⁄2in (6cm). H. before being smothered in Dairy’s herd of Holstein Friesian cows. after extensive one of the oldest and takes its name feta-style cheeses in Australia. Victoria Age 4–5 weeks Age 3–4 weeks Age 1–2 months Weight and Shape 8oz (220g). 1in (2. 3in (8cm) 334 Milk Cow Milk Goat Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Semi-soft. The from the Frenchwoman who provided ﬁrst was created by Richard Thomas in dairy makes a range of washed-rind the original recipe. fermentation. drizzled over wood-ﬁred sourdough bread. or as an instant sparingly when cooking. 4in (10cm). 3in (7. as the chalky blend of oils infused with crushed silky paste with a mild creamy ﬂavor. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. dressing for a salad. South Australia AUSTRALIA Woodside. TASTING NOTES A small orange disc with a TASTING NOTES Creamy chunks of curd very distinct and indiscreet aroma. Use Sauvignon Blanc.5cm). and slow overnight using milk collected from Yarra Valley The strongest is Washington. Edith is There are dozens of marinated main street in 2003.5cm) Size D. and spices. black vine ash and ripened. AUSTRALIA Angaston. handling. center gradually breaks down to a garlic. Its secret is milk 1994. Washington Washrind Woodside Edith Yarra Valley Dairy Victoria McClurg established Barossa Kris Lloyd makes several dozen original Persian Fetta Valley Cheese Company in Angaston’s cow’s and goat’s milk cheeses. inspired by a Persian recipe and cheeses using cow’s and goat’s milk. South Australia AUSTRALIA Yarra Valley. HOW TO ENJOY This surprisingly versatile the yeasty ﬂavors in the rind match Ideal on a cheese board HOW TO ENJOY cheese can be enjoyed straight from the well with the local Coopers ale and matched with crusty bread and jar on toast or biscuits. H. washed Classiﬁcation Natural rind Classiﬁcation Fresh Producer Barossa Valley Cheese Company Producer Woodside Cheese Wrights Producer Yarra Valley Dairy . round Weight and Shape 7oz (200g). HOW TO ENJOY Perfect on a cheese board. it ages gracefully. H. South Auckland Age 3–5 weeks Age 2–5 years Age1–4 days old Weight and Shape 2lb (950g). curry and fresh walnuts that goes well granular. recipe. Clevedon Valley Buffalo. Saanen and Nubian goats that browse on Banks Peninsula. handmade Canterbury beer. with a ﬂavor reminiscent of best. Waikato NEW ZEALAND Barry’s Bay. NEW ZEALAND Aroha with Fenugreek Barry’s Bay Cheddar Buffalo Mozzarella John and Jeanne van Kuyk make Since 1989 the Walkers have kept alive In 2007. mustard ﬂavor. freely on various herbs and shrubs.5in (6cm) 91⁄2lb (4. Mike and Catherine Carey They sell their wide range of buffalo They are the ﬁrst in New Zealand to stepped enthusiastically into his shoes. using organic milk from their ﬂock of settlers of making clothbound cheddar imported 65 Australian water buffalo. Milk Buffalo Classiﬁcation Hard round: D. HOW TO ENJOY The curry ﬂavor lends itself HOW TO ENJOY Best with good bread and and grassy olive oil. Canterbury NEW ZEALAND Clevedon. H. 14in (35cm) Producer Aroha Organic Goat Cheese Classiﬁcation Fresh Milk Cow Producer Clevedon Valley Buffalo Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Barry’s Bay Traditional Cheeses . or grated into soups. 2. balsamic vinegar. where ricotta and NEW ZEALAND TASTING NOTES Using a classic Gouda rinded cheddar in New Zealand. boulder Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1. the small dumpling-shaped hefty rounds are waxed and matured cheeses come in ﬂavors including for anything up to ﬁve years. NEW ZEALANDTe Aroha. well to salads. its fresh mozzarella are the most popular. round (125g). these rounds are hard and the art of trapping the milky whey. 79lb (36kg). with a sweet but sharp with the supple. the tradition started by early English on the shores of the Hauraki Gulf. balls Milk Goat Size truckle: D. 41⁄2in (11cm) and 61⁄2in Size Various 335 (17cm).5kg) truckles. artisan cheese near Mount Te Aroha. basil. 151⁄2in (40cm). HOW TO ENJOY Serve fresh with ripe tomatoes.5kg) and Weight and Shape 3oz (80g)–41⁄2oz Size D. 5in (13cm). grilled over potatoes or chutney. H. in 2008. and at the local TASTING NOTES The only clothbound farmer’s market. Zealand. When Don retired which have now grown to over 170. creamy cheese. or an apple. milk cheeses and yogurt in New be certiﬁed to produce raw milk cheese. Australia. 51⁄2in (14cm) and 61⁄2in (17cm). and a bottle of vegetables. H. At their TASTING NOTES They have perfected fenugreek. H. It has a mozzarella shell. Hamilton NEW ZEALAND Pohangina. In 2010. mousselike feel Penicillium candidum. Brazilian with Italian Jill and Ade Walcroft make a range of New Zealand while on vacation in 2004 heritage. were both research from Pohangina Valley in the Manawatu. 21⁄2in (6cm). with subtle aromatic. organic Milk Cow. Burrata Cilantro Fresh Chevre Coppermine Massimo Lubisco fell in love with Mônica Salerno. money Weight and Shape 5–6oz (140–180g). organic Milk Goat Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Fresh Producer Cartwheel Creamery Producer Massimo’s Italian Cheeses Producer Cilantro Cheese . and Jenny Oldham. AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND for quality food and a lack of fresh scientists at Ruakura when they decided Washed in brine. onions. 4in (9. and the subtle taste lends glass of Pohangina Valley Estate Pinot that involve tomatoes. round pouch Size L. TASTING NOTES The thin. log Weight and Shape 61⁄2oz (180g). yet feather-light. hints of with cow’s milk) are stuffed inside a in the mouth that melts like ice cream.5cm). Palmerston North Age 1–2 days Age A few days Age 8–10 weeks Weight and Shape 41⁄2oz (125g). Their efﬁcient handling stream in the Ruahine Range where his dream and set up his own ensures that none of the billy goat notes copper was discovered in 1887. copper-colored TASTING NOTES Cream and strips of TASTING NOTESBright white whipped washed rind. W. 2in (5cm) Milk Cow. HOW TO ENJOY It spreads easily. he followed to make cheese. releasing lemony fresh acidity and warm-yellow interior that is velvety It is rich. fresh herbs. taint the curd. 21⁄2in (6cm). dusted with white mozzarella (ﬁor di latte when made curd with a smooth. with a glass of New Zealand Sauvignon. from the soft cheeses from organic milk sourced and recognized the growing demand King Country. Size D. and smoked bacon. or grilled over olive oil. it is named after a mozzarella.5cm) 336 Size D. bakes HOW TO ENJOY On a cheese board with a HOW TO ENJOY Use in salads or dishes superbly. 1in (2. buttery. and cracked black pepper. then squeezed shut. potatoes. the fresh sweetness of the organic milk. cheesemaking business in Auckland. farmyards and mushrooms. itself to many brochette or canapé ideas Gris or a hoppy Pilsner. herbaceous notes. NEW ZEALAND Auckland NEW ZEALAND Ruakura Campus. 23⁄4in (7cm) H. 31⁄2in (9cm). smooth with savory notes on the ﬁnish. H. and husband John have own farms. 4in (10cm) truncated cone Milk Goat Milk Ewe Size D. 61⁄2in (17cm). along with tempted to try her hand at making a just 25 goats. but all develop a fresh. rich. Beneath its farmyard aroma. Grate onto Zealand’s top restaurants. H. 31⁄4in (8cm) Size D. three weeks. 23⁄4in (7cm). It develops a slightly gamey its taste is savory. goaty ﬂavor. taste with a salty edge on the ﬁnish HOW TO ENJOY Extremely popular on HOW TO ENJOYToo precious to be a mere HOW TO ENJOY Eat in chunks with crusty cheese boards in many of New sandwich ﬁlling. is the washed rind cheese despite the fact is a consistent winner. Size D. almost crumbly Brandy. yet this simple hard cheese Tussock Feta and other cheeses. or shave onto served with a dry Riesling or cool beer. sometimes cinnamon and with a sweetness like salted caramel. cheesemaker Maxi Robertson’s talent not to everyone’s taste. year after year.000 It was almost inevitable that a talented Jan Walter. or polenta. coconut milk is TASTING NOTES Dense. 5in (13cm). it should be savored bread and quince paste. pasta. 23⁄4in (7cm) 337 Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Hard Milk Goat Producer Crescent Dairy Goats Producers Blue River Dairy Products Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Crescent Dairy Goats .Crescent Dairy Curio Bay Pecorino Dirty Devil Farmhouse Blue River sources milk from 3. round Weight and Shape 7oz (200g). and commitment to quality. earthy. and best with a good Sauvignon Blanc. at result of the unique grazing and head that they are difﬁcult to make and are the New Zealand Cheese Awards. H. Sometimes. Auckland Age 6–12 months Age 10–14 months Age 30–40 days Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg). round Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg). It is best when still moist with age. salads. smooth when young washed with brine every few days for discernible. NEW ZEALAND Auckland. becoming granular. This cheese. TASTING NOTES It varies from one day to TASTING NOTES This small cone is hand- NEW ZEALAND the next. then ﬁnished with French thyme. one of New Zealand’s ﬁnest crossbred East Friesian ewes on its cheesemaker like Jan Walter would be cheesemakers. Southland NEW ZEALAND Kumeu. and meaty. risotto. and slightly soft. Auckland NEW ZEALAND Invercargill. Pair with fruity red wines. H. Brie has become a New Zealand icon. a smooth creamy. It is an makes and sells at the cafe a wide AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND the family cow. to the ﬁnal product. H. 4in (13cm) Size D. 6in (16cm).3kg). boulder Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb (2. Kallarney is their only blue. Evansdale remains small. fresh apple juice or Gimblett Gravels try it with a light beer or dry Riesling. HOW TO ENJOY: Excellent with buttery HOW TO ENJOY Can be crumbled into Chardonnay or spritzy Champagne. and a taste that is taste that carries hints of warm bread. Evansdale Hohepa Danbo Kallarney Blue Farmhouse Brie Hohepa offers curative education In 1996 Kelvin Haigh set up The Set up in 1979 by schoolteacher Colin and social therapy to people with Cheese Barn. Pinot Noir.5kg). thyme. H. Its Farmhouse which gives complexity and character cows. TASTING NOTES The texture is pleasantly TASTING NOTES Smaller and twice as thick TASTING NOTES The deep yellow interior. it has a savory crunchy blue that have a spicy tang. cheese made with “biodynamic” milk. and raw onion. 4in (10cm) 338 Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Soft white Classiﬁcation Hard Classiﬁcation Blue Producer Evansdale Cheese Producer Hohepa Hawkes Bay Producer The Cheese Barn . is chewy yet Zealand blues. It gradually becomes creamy in the both sweet and yogurty sharp. near Thames. or with a fresh fruit platter of apricots. the Evansdale has a dotted with tiny holes. and quirky. 11in (27cm). Paul. mostly from their small herd of organic hands-on. H. nectarines. Thames Age 5–10 weeks Age 4–9 months Age 4–5 months Weight and Shape 3lb (1. Otago NEW ZEALAND Clive. Try HOW TO ENJOY Serve with a glass of salads with fresh walnuts and apples. Hawkes Bay NEW ZEALAND Matatoki. When young. has a deeper color and more ﬂavor. and peaches. 3in (7cm) Size D. where he Dennison to utilize excess milk from intellectual disabilities.5kg). 7in (18cm). crumbly and drier than most New as traditional Brie. and managed by son amazing place with a masterpiece of a range of cheese and dairy products. and buttery center. with streaks of ﬂuffy white candidum rind. NEW ZEALAND Waikouaiti. round Weight and Shape 14lb (6. drum Size D. The aged cheese mouth and has a light salty ﬁnish. 5kg). traditional Dutch cheeses. disease. 121⁄2in (32cm). NEW ZEALAND Loburn. 9in (23cm) or 13in (33cm) 339 H. dark ale. At two molds. or try HOW TO ENJOY Servewith nuts. In 2004. helped resurrect traditional Dutch dairy products. H. Made the Lamers and the Hawkins. round Milk Cow Milk Cow Size D. with reduced-fat milk the business and now continue to make resistant animals. woody Chardonnay or pale ale. top quality milk. of damp leaves and meadow hay. it has a supple. caramel-sweet. TASTING NOTESWith tastes of butterscotch NEW ZEALAND and caramel. approach to their business and believe from their cow’s milk since 1986. boulder Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb (2. two families. Nelson NEW ZEALAND Kerikeri. H. but like sweet taste with a hint of curry. it is drier. sharper. 6in (14cm). round Weight and Shape 11lb (5kg) or 22lb Size D. giving it a dark rind dotted with white and red supple testure when young.Karikaas Vintage Kinzell Creek Mahoe Vintage Edam Leyden Tucked away in the Tui Valley. HOW TO ENJOY Excellent with white or HOW TO ENJOY Melted over potatoes. and TESTING NOTES Leyden is a classic Gouda TASTING NOTES Beneath a slightly sticky a ﬁnish with a savory bite. The cumin works well apples. and and a salty butter taste with hints when aged. Northland Age 6–36 months Age 6–8 weeks Age 18–24 months Weight and Shape 22lb (10kg).5cm) (10kg). the New Zealand’s northernmost In 1984. and great cheese. and stout. Rients and Karen Rypma Trafford family farm has around commercial cheesemakers are situated established Karikaas Dairy and 80 cows and makes a wide range of in lush Oromahoe in the Bay of Islands. They have a holistic The Rosevears have been making cheese cheesemaking. it pairs well with a with cured meats. 4in (10cm) or 41⁄2in (11cm) Classiﬁcation Flavor-added Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Milk Cow Producer Karikaas Dairy Producer Wangapeka Family Dairy Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Mahoe Farmhouse Cheese . Canterbury NEW ZEALAND Tapawera. fresh dessert wines. and chutney alongside a local full-bodied red or Trappiste beer. it has a scattered with cumin seeds. 5in (12cm) Size D. with mulled red wine. 1in (2. bought it produces content. robust. smooth texture a Parmesan with crunchy crystals years old. a lactic acid tang. with sourdough bread. boulder Size No size Size D. their which is packed with hundreds of Miel and his brother Geert took over in 60 goats graze on free-range pastures different Dutch-style cheeses. or in a toasted with Sauvignon Blanc or Champagne. Meadowcroft Farm Mercer Maasdam Meyer Vintage Gouda Goat’s Curd Maasdam is made by several of New Named as “Cheese of the Decade” by Tim and Kylie Connell took over from Zealand’s Dutch cheesemakers. Based in Golden Bay. with a savory tang and in fresh herbs. also making it ideal on pizza or in a sandwich with onions. Waikato Age 0–5 weeks Age 4–7 months Age 18–24 months Weight and Shape 7oz (200g). Match with or spooned over fresh fruit and honey. H. and a texture that is more like an Emmental. 13in (33cm). Lovely with a malty beer or cider. and acidity and salt. Next generation cheeses. packet Weight and Shape 22lb (10kg). H. At curd possesses a ﬁnely tuned balance of mellows out with age. 2004. TASTING NOTES Special bacteria are added to the milk to produce the small holes TASTING NOTES Smooth. chewy. Waikato NEW ZEALAND Hamilton. it is as dark. moist and very slightly granular. 41⁄2in (11cm) Size D. or marinated in oil. fondue. fat boulder Weight and Shape 22lb (10kg). Tasman NEW ZEALAND Hamilton. herbaceous. family since the 1980s. rock-hard as any Dutch Boerenkaas. HOW TO ENJOY Eat in generous chunks HOW TO ENJOYPerfect on crusty bread particularly ham. lighter red wines or lager. the author in 2003. the fermenting fruit sweetness that a sprinkling of calcium crystals. giving the milk its cheeses using the original recipe. and continue to make outstanding overlooking the sea. rolled in the soft. He sells it from his small shop. 13in (33cm). this vintage Gouda Averill Turnbull in 2013 and continue including Albert Alfrink of Mercer has been handmade by the Meyer AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND to make simple but delicious goat Cheese. supple interior and the caramel-sweet. sweet ﬂavor. HOW TO ENJOY Excellent with cured meats. and TASTING NOTES Whether it is plain. it melts beautifully. NEW ZEALAND Golden Bay. 5in (12cm) 340 Milk Goat Milk Cow Milk Cow Classiﬁcation Fresh Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Meadowcroft Farm Producer Mercer Cheese Producer Meyer Gouda Cheese . intense. when it becomes three years. tightly wrinkled sweetness. Matakana NEW ZEALAND Upper Moutere. “Tama” means and continues to make this great cheese.Mt. It is earthy has a nutty and mushroomy aroma and but less salty than Italian pecorino. taste. 91⁄2in (24cm). Tamahunga Neudorf Cheesemakers Chris and Jill Whalley Annie and Phil Armstrong have 16 Richmond Red started making cheese in 2007. traditional cheddar. NEW ZEALAND Katikati. 6in (16cm) Size L. Bay of Plenty NEW ZEALAND Whangaripo. her milk close texture. pyramid Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1. Nelson Age 8–10 months Age 2–4 weeks Age 10–20 months Weight and Shape 171⁄2lb (8kg). Brian Beuke. make excellent handmade. Eliza Red Leicester Mt.5kg). and slightly sweet. while the annatto gives Together they produce some supplier. it is HOW TO ENJOY Pair with darker beers wonderful with sliced pears or quince and real ale. loaf of fresh crusty bread from the risotto or spaghetti. H. Matakana Farmers Market white wine from the Neudorf vineyard. dusted with ﬁne white mold. It harder feel and more intense ﬂavors bite at the back of the tongue. TASTING NOTES At ten months it is ﬁrm NEW ZEALAND TASTING NOTES A caramel-colored with nutty and caramelized onion TASTING NOTES This cheese is dense. 3in (8cm). it is perfect in a sandwich HOW TO ENJOY Pair with a rosé and a paste. At 20 months. near Matakana. Leicester curd is ﬁnely cut and twice. Phil looks after the this was created by Kate Light in the milled to give it a uniquely authentic herd and Annie makes the cheese. H. it has a smooth. wheel Weight and Shape 9oz (250g). with hints of vanilla and thyme in the ﬁnish. late 1990s. They also exceptional cheeses. H 21⁄2in Size D. round Size D. and deep-ﬂavored near the rind. clothbound youthful and “hunga” eruption. and the aged is ideal grated on with raw onion or peppery watercress. 2in (5cm). pyramid with a soft. HOW TO ENJOY When young. with a strong rind. The Red buffalo that graze the wild pastures New Zealand’s ﬁrst ewe’s milk cheese. 21⁄2in (6cm) Milk Cow (6cm). Milk Ewe 341 Classiﬁcation Hard Milk Buffalo Classiﬁcation Hard Producer Mount Eliza Cheese Classiﬁcation Aged fresh Producer Neudorf Dairy Producer Whangaripo Buffalo Cheese . has now taken up the mantle it the bright orange color. Serve with a red or and makes a good Welsh rarebit. W. 5in (13cm). supple. 11in (27cm). Milk Buffalo H. Northland NEW ZEALAND Havelock North. Parihaka Pink & White Terraces St. H. Annie decided Ayrshire cows and the other Jersey the farm and the animals. instincts and your curiosity. shared fascination with cheese that has searching the length of New Zealand handcrafted cheeses. Benedict and hasn’t stopped since. other dry aromatic Hawkes Bay white. square Size L. owned by Catherine Joanie and Richard Williams started in Cheesemaking is not about following and James McNamara. They source organic quality cheeses using beautiful fresh. it has the named for the pale pink. Marmite. is a small 2011 with the aim of creating unique a recipe but about following your artisan producer. and deep yellow. 20in (50cm). Creamy. with a glass of rosé. to create a range of unique. Matakana Age 5–6 months Hawkes Bay Age 2–4 weeks Weight and Shape 11lb (5kg). It is their to create something different. 31⁄2in (9cm) Weight and Shape 7oz (200g). Benedict the Black Grinning Gecko. elastic. she made her ﬁrst batch of St. log Size D. revealing a white interior ﬂowers characteristic of Ayrshire milk. 2in (5cm) 342 Milk Cow Size L. wheel Age 4–6 weeks Weight and Shape 7oz (200g). cheese. W. H. TASTING NOTES Washed in brine. So rather AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND milk from two local farms: one milking organic milk that can be traced back to than making mozzarella. 20in (50cm). NEW ZEALAND Whangerei. HOW TO ENJOY Serve with preserved fruit or chutney or grill over your favorite HOW TO ENJOY With dry Riesling or HOW TO ENJOY Enjoy lightly grilled on roast vegetables. it is textured. with the earthy freshness of the milk. for charcoal. or at a picnic by the river means you won’t need too much. Its strong ﬂavor Viognier from Blackbarn Winery or any sourdough. ridged rind TASTING NOTES A ﬁne black layer of aroma and taste of fermenting pears dusted with white and patches of blue charcoal can be seen beneath the thin with hints of sweetness and meadow mold. After cows. salty with hints of blue white rind. TASTING NOTES Dense. NEW ZEALAND Whangaripo Valley. 10in (25cm) Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Classiﬁcation Soft white Milk Cow Producer Grinning Gecko Cheese Producer Whangaripo Buffalo Cheese Classiﬁcation Semi-soft Producer Organic Earth Cheese . 5in (12cm). made this modern New Zealand classic. umami and peanuts– that tastes of vanilla and mushrooms spectacular as the original terraces. a sparkling wine or crisp Chardonnay. it develops when young.5cm) Size D. W.Waimata Camembert Whitestone Zany Zeus Halloumi Established in 1995. all available in their Lower Hutt cafe. he decided to become a more than 300 tons of cheese a year. including yogurt. Fruity and sharp TASTING NOTES When cooked.. block Size D. when his Cyprus-born mother taught one of the largest independent Whitestone is another early pioneer of him to make halloumi. but once ripe. 1in (2. Rick and Carol Windsor Blue Mike Matsis’s passion for cheese started Thorpe’s Waimata Cheese Company is Set up in the mid-1980s by Bob Berry. 5in (12cm) Size L. halloumi and milky. 11⁄2in (4cm). Wellington Age 4–7 weeks Age 3–8 months Age From a few days Weight and Shape 13⁄4lb (800g). round Weight and Shape 9oz (250g). double cream ﬂagship blue. Otago NEW ZEALAND Petone. Milk Cow Milk Cow H. spritzy it will be crisp outside and melt inside. Others can be nurtured the milk sugars or lactose taste sweet. Fascinated by cheesemakers in New Zealand. 71⁄2in (19cm). and soft white cheese. squeaky like a dense mozzarella. baguette. feta. as they cook. HOW TO ENJOY Spread on crackers or a like caramelized onion. toss into hot pasta. white wine. to become more savory. Serve with fruity whites or red wines. NEW ZEALAND TASTING NOTES The added cream gives it a TASTING NOTES When young. and halloumi. feta. round Weight and Shape 81⁄2lb (3. it is mild taste like blue butter. feels slightly into a light runny vanilla cream style salty. 21⁄2in (6cm). it becomes sweet. smoked cheeses— cheeses. 11⁄2in (4 cm) 343 Classiﬁcation Soft white Classiﬁcation Blue Milk Cow Producer Waimata Cheese Company Producer Whitestone Cheese Classiﬁcation Fresh Producer Zany Zeus . H. 8in (21cm).8kg). NEW ZEALAND Gisborne. East Cape NEW ZEALAND Oamaru. They make a wide range of cheesemaker. and spicy with age. H. HOW TO ENJOY Fry or barbecue on skewers. baked croissant with apple chutney and Match with a slightly sweet. 1990s. almost meaty. producing the country’s cheese renaissance in the the process. soft whites. or serve HOW TO ENJOY Serve in a warm freshly with pears and gingerbread for dessert. slightly tastes deliciously salty. and now makes a range of Their huge range includes numerous cheese but Windsor Blue is still their authentic Mediterranean dairy products blues. it also GLOBULES destroys many ﬂavor-enriching microorganisms. and Cheeses produced on farms approved by an (Bixa orellana). carbohydrates in the cheese are broken down by ofﬁcial government program that adheres to the biochemical changes with the help of temperature. fundamental process in cheesemaking. speciﬁc to milk of all mammals. that the fat content of milk is only water. precipitated in and an open top. in the milk and consumers can rarely tell they are typically white. Within three months. “cooked” in the whey. have been developed to bring out the best The process by which molds on the rind of cheeses. the natural acidity of a PROCESSED CHEESE cheese will kill off the remaining bacteria. which affect the pesticides or chemicals on the land. where they are 1. LACTATION Camembert and Brie. not subjected to pasteurization. and 2. Also known as Lactic Cheese. FULL FAT PASTA FILATA Indicates that the milk has not been skimmed Also known as Stretched Curd. and completion of bacterial action on curd. HOOP of a cheese. and shaped when hot and Cheeses in which the just cut curd is heated or immediately sealed in its ﬁnal packaging. they are mostly prepared This is the basis of cheese. ANNATTO Orange-red dye. Glossary always been made with skim or low-fat milk. COOKED CHEESES the enzymes to continue the ripening. such as Emmentaler. PIERCING Also called curdling. except in the Gruyère-style MOLD milk-fed animal. (of milk) Natural maturing of milk through Fat is a carrier of ﬂavor and feels soft and creamy 2. and enzymes. is used to create the sticky orange rind on washed-rind cheeses. such as no BACTERIA LINENS humidity. obtained from the natural FERMENTATION ORGANIC pigments in the seeds of the annatto tree During ripening. EYES MARBLING The small eye-shaped holes that form in the body See Veining. ﬂavor. PENICILLIUM CANDIDUM Milk’s chief and particular protein. helping coagulation. RANCID 344 Used as a general term for unpleasant ﬂavors ESTERS LACTOSE in fats. this bacteria texture. Most cheeses are whereby curd is immersed in hot acidic whey to A strong salt solution used to seal the outside made from full-fat milk. Term used to describe milk. it will change its depth of ﬂavor and texture and come from the genera Aspergillus.) 1. a technique BRINE before being turned into cheese. by acid and enzyme activity and heat. the fat. round and more often referred to as “holes. MOLD-RIPENED however. or for the animals. The fatty acids and glycerides in plants. acids. principles of organic production. it typically has a perforated base but an open top with perforations on the walls. The curdling of milk from lactose to lactic acid PROTEOLYSIS using only a starter culture (when rennet is not Breakdown of proteins by enzymes. . and the fat content of cheese PASTEURIZATION BUTTERMILK ranges from 20–34 percent. Examples include mozzarella and provolone. from growing. Also known as Pâte. If the fat is reduced or removed from family that grow on the outside or inside of cheeses of starter culture. (See also Whey. signiﬁcantly lower The heat treatment of raw milk for at least one The slightly sour liquid left after butter has than most people realize.” after salting. minute at 163°F (73°C) to destroy any potential been churned. Formally known as Bacillus linens. 3. gray-blue. leaving Cheese is heated along with an emulsifying agent. oil. It should be noted. then kneaded or stretched in hot of some cheeses and prevent unwanted mold however. and aroma of the ripe cheese. esters from ﬂora consumed by animals give aroma Converted to lactic acid by the enzyme action of RAW MILK and ﬂavor to cheeses. from calving to drying out. day’s milk or whey. some microorganisms in the Lactic Fermentation. traditionally made by souring the previous or heat.” The recipe for cheeses that have Penicillium. Aromatic Soluble sugar.) A white mold with a mushroom aroma and taste cheesemaking by acid development and by rennin that grows on soft white cheeses such as enzyme. and consequent enzyme action. in the dairy. becoming curd. Unfortunately. milk. and orange. protein. this refers to the Inserting of needles into a cheese to facilitate the separation of the solids and liquids in milk caused LACTIC ACID entry and development of blue molds. It is the Formed by the bacterial action on lactose in milk.8 percent for cow’s milk to 16 percent for reindeer’s milk. CURDS used). Today. The container into which the fresh curd is packed milk into a digestible form. (See also Mold. speed up lower in fat. rendering the curd more LACTIC FERMENTATION elastic and expelling more whey. The solid protein that forms when milk coagulates. bacteria. in its natural state. which breaks down the solids in cheeses. GLOSSARY The period of time covering the milk production COAGULATION season of a cow. Fat globules The yellow to red natural colorant that comes vary in size depending on the breed of animal. The end RIPENING FAT CONTENT is ﬁxed. it typically has a perforated base and sides. CAROTENE Form in which fat is present in milk. Most are An enzyme extracted from the stomach lining of a small and uniform. harmful microorganisms. and water. without addition in the mouth. Microorganisms belonging to the Mycota rising acidity before renneting. Mucor. The container into which fresh curd is packed after CASEIN salting. the breakdown of the curd. alkalis. RENNET of some cheeses during fermentation.) in laboratories. (of cheese) Continuing enzyme action of rennet or “mouth feel. make it elastic. PASTE from grasses and is converted through the liver Used in European cheeses to describe the interior into vitamin A. (See also Hoop. bitter ﬂavor reminiscent of chicory or fresh Typically a combination of lactic bacterial cultures young grass. like heavy A term used in Italy to describe a hard cheese fault when used to describe Brie. used to start transformation of lactose to lactic Bite A distinct. Herbaceous The leafy fragrance of wild ﬂowers. The following terms are commonly used to describe SILAGE the aroma. perfumed. ﬂavor. such as processed cheese. Acidity In a cheese. Mostly used usually carried through to the ﬁnish. hedges. Often associated with GLOSSARY grows evenly. creating a sticky orange rind. pleasantly sharp grassy The liquid residue of milk after most of the solids. savory notes of many washed-rind and cheesemaking. a cloth that forms a sticky orange rind. The difference in Finish The aftertaste. meaty A container in which the milk is contained for However. smooth. texture. rich. VEINING Friable The tendency of a cheese to crumble into Also known as marbling. Supple More dense than “rubbery. Typically associated with hard ewe’s-milk cheeses. WASHED RIND Grainy A texture in which barely detectable small Cheeses that are washed regularly over a period particles can be discerned—these are usually salt of time. Aromatic A sensation of varied and interesting aromas—could be spicy. Farmyard A term used to describe manure or mature hard cheeses such as cheddar. and luxurious when used by rennet is used to curdle the milk. in place of the some Europeans. often mixed with spices or alcohol. The Italians use the word erborinatura Fruity A ﬂavor reminiscent of both the odor 345 and the French use the term persille (both mean and taste of fresh fruit picked at its optimum “parsley”) to describe the scattered veining in their stage of ripeness. this refers to the streaks small grainy fragments. Cheese-tasting terms lactic acid as the milk sours. and without structure. like red wine or port. Bitter A characteristic taste of some cheeses. sharp. or lines of blue mold found in the body of all blue cheeses. It is used to describe the rind or a wine. (54°C) in the whey—lower than pasteurization. herbaceous. the mouth. underlying structure. or sensation left on the taste in most cheeses is barely distinguishable. THERMIZED CHEESES Burnt Caramel A sweet ﬂavor with just a hint of Squeaky When curd is washed it becomes very Cheeses whose curd has been heated to 130°F overcooked caramelized sugar. can TABLE CHEESE be a positive attribute as in strong cheddar or a Smooth An absence of any structure. this can be or when strong develops a distinct sharp mineral a positive attribute if it is not excessive—it or metallic taint. rather than breakable.” as in the texture of solution of brine and Bacillus linens. more traditional animal rennet. that can be used as an eating or snacking cheese as well as in cooking. Umami This describes the yeasty. WHEY Green Grass A fresh. sometimes almost STARTER CULTURE or fruity. it is usually a good thing. cheesecake. and grasses. slightly fruity. which causes the milk to curdle. cream or custard. and was traditionally left on Body The sensation of weight and substance in Soft A yielding texture like mashed potato or the table. often with Unctuous Fatty and greasy to English speakers Cheeses in which a non-animal alternative to a tearable layered texture. Pungent A forceful. pleasant. Elastic A ﬁrm but ﬂexible texture that returns to VEGETARIAN CHEESE its original shape after gentle pressure. SMEAR-RIPENED leaves a refreshing. in conjunction with rennet. and ﬂavor of cheese: Metallic The mold in blue cheeses can be mild and Grasses and legumes preserved by air-free storage. VAT and literally means they smell a bit stinky. sometimes tingly. apples. and mangoes. intense initial ﬂavor. Tangy A tart or acidic ﬂavor that causes the a cheese is evenly distributed and the mold mouth to pucker and tingle. Gruyère-type cheeses. It is sometimes referred to as Serum. with limited fermentation. in a brine solution. have been coagulated into curd. Velvety Thick but soft.” as it has an TURNING Dry A feeling of lack of moisture in the mouth. to ensure that the moisture in Earthy An aroma of freshly tilled soil. or roasted onions. Rubbery A bouncy springy feel and a rippable. texture. acid. not just once or twice. including the fats. Grassy Characteristic ﬂavor of freshly cut grass. smooth and feels shiny and “squeaky” clean. palate after the last mouthful. sensation A cheese whose rind is rubbed or smeared with a in the mouth. but creamy. melons. traditional cheeses. The process of regularly turning a whole cheese while maturing. Lactic The taste of slightly soured milk. such as pears. or crystals of calcium lactate. not bad. animals. usually with some cakes.SERUM Lactose The sugar in milk that is converted to See Whey. Moist Used in contrast to “dry. reminiscent of tarragon and thyme. . like wine. 234 Blythedale Farm Camembert 277 St Jorge 297 Seven-Year-Old Orange Cheddar Baby Blue 310 Bouton-de-Culotte 40 Camembert au Calvados 44 317 Baby Muenster (Oltermanni) 251 Bouyguette des Collines 41 Camembert de Normandie AOC 6. 41 Crotonese) 125 Canestrato di Moliterno PGI 104. 336 Le Cendré des Prés 312 Ancient Heritage Scio 306 Bethmale 35 Burt’s Blue 173 Cerney Pyramid 174 Andante Dairy Picolo 271 Bettelmatt 103 Cerwyn 212 Anster 206 Beyaz Peynir 261 Chabichou du Poitou AOC 48. 25 Caciotta 110 306 DOP) 149 Blue Heaven 172 Caciotta al Tartufo 110 Grafton Cheddar 283 Australian cheeses 327. 19. 92 Anthotyros DOC 256 C INDEX Big Island Feta 275 Chalet d’Alpage 38 AOC (Appellation d’Origine Big Woods Blue 275 Chaource AOC 15. 225–27 Buchette Pont d’Yeu 43 Casolet 114 Almkäse PDO 102 Belle Chèvre 274 Buffalo Blue 173 Rosa Camuna 132 Alpine 270 Bellelay (Tête de Moine AOC) 252 Buffalo Mozzarella 335 Castellano 150 Alpine Lakes Creamy Bleu 306 Bellingham Blue 218 buffalo-milk cheeses 6 Castelmagno PDO 114 Alsea Acre Fromage Blanc 270 Bellwether Farms Crescenza 274 Buffalo Blue 173 Castelo Branco DOP 165 L’Alt Urgell y La Cerdanya DOP 146 Benabarre 148 Mt Tamahunga 341 Cave Aged Marisa 278 Altenburger Ziegenkäse PDO 233 Benasque 148 Pendragon 189 Cayuse Mountain Goat 307 Amadeus (Chorherrenkäse) 236 Bergkäse (Pusteria) 142 Ricotta di Bufala Campana PDO Cebreiro DOP 151 American Grana 270 Bergues 35 142 Cendré de Niort 48 Ami du Chambertin 32 Berkswell 25. 44. 12–13. 46 Steamboat Island Goat Farm Bad Axe 307 Bra Douro 105 Camembleu 323 Gouda 309 Bagòss 102 Bra Tenero 105 Le Cendré des Prés 312 Tumbleweed 304 Baguette Laonnaise 33 Braculina (Paglierina) 123 Comfort Cream 313 Västerbottenost 250 Banon Branzi 105 Cooleeney 219 Winterdale Shaw 205 Banon AOC 34 Brazilian cheeses 319 Little Ryding 186 cheese board and accompaniments Banon aux Baies Roses 34 Brebis du Lochois 41 St Eadburgha 195 24–25 Banon à la Sarriette 34 Bridgewater Round 278 Tunworth 202 cheese-tasting terms 345 Hoja Santa 285 Waimata Camembert 343 . 48 Controlée) 8 Billy’s Smokey Goat 172 C2 (Bruny Island C2) 328 Charolais & Charolais-style Appalachian 271 Bio Bleu 225 Le Cabanon 312 Charolais AOC 49 Appel Farms Cheddar 271 Bio Paulus 236 Cabécou de Rocamadour 79 Racotin 79 Appenzeller 238 Bitto PDO 105 Caboc 210–11 Signal 88 Ardi-Gasna 33 Bla Castello 245 Cabot Clothbound 278 Cheddar & Cheddar-style 19. 310–17 Barry’s Bay Cheddar 335 Bath Soft Cheese 170 Cañarejal 149 Basajo 103 Bla Castello 245 Canestrato Crotonese (Pecorino A Bastardo del Grappa 103 Bastelicaccia 98 Brie de Meaux AOC 14. Index Barely Buzzed 273 Brie & Brie-style Camembleu 323 Barkham Blue 170 Awe Brie 272 Camerano DOP 149 La Barre du Jour 311 Baby Blue 310 Canadian cheeses 268. 328–34 Blue Murder 206 Caerphilly & Caerphilly-style 216–17 Hafod 213 Austrian cheeses 232. 15. 220 Allgäuer Bergkäse PDO 233 Bela Badia 141 Bryndza PGI 260 Casín DOP 150 Allgäuer Emmentaler PDO 233 Belgian cheeses 224. 236–37 Blythedale Farm Camembert 277 Lavistown 222 Isle of Mull Cheddar 208 Avonlea Clothbound Cheddar 310 Boksburg Gold Blue 212 Wedmore 203 Lincolnshire Poacher 185 Awe Brie 272 Bonde de Gâtine 37 Wiltshire Loaf 204 Pendragon 189 Azeitão DOP 165 Boulette d’Avesnes 40. 7 Bleu des Causses AOC 36 Caciocavallo & Caciocavallo-style 106 Beechers Flagship Reserve 274 Arzúa-Ulloa DOP 147 Bleu de Chèvre 36 Caciocavallo Occhiato 107 Bleu Mont Cheddar 277 Ascutney Mountain Cheese 272 Bleu de Termignon 37 Caciocavallo Podolico 107 Cabot Clothbound 278 Ashed Tomette 272 Bleu de Gex Haut-Jura AOC 36 Caciocavallo Silano PDO 107 Cantal AOC 45 Asiago PDO 102 Bleu Mont Cheddar 277 Cascaval PDO 260 Cheddar Curds 312 Asiago d’Allevo 102 Bleu du Vercors-Sassenage AOC 37 Kachokabaro 323 Daylesford Cheddar 176 346 Asiago Pressato 102 Blue Castello (Bla Castello) 245 Cacioricotta 141 5 Spoke Creamery Browning Gold La Aulaga Camerano (Camerano blue cheeses 8. Ardrahan 215 Blacksticks Blue 172 Cabra Ruﬁno 149 327 Ardsallagh 215 Blanca Bianca 275 Cabra Transmontano DOP 165 Appel Farms Cheddar 271 Argentinian cheeses 319 Bleu Age 307 Cabrales DOP 148 Avonlea Clothbound Cheddar 310 Aroha with Fenugreek 335 Bleu d’Auvergne AOC 35 Cabri Ariégeois 44 Barely Buzzed 273 Arômes au Gêne de Marc 33 Bleu Bénédictin 311 Caccio Farnum 106 Barry’s Bay Cheddar 335 artisan cheeses 6. Mozzarella Cendré Lochois 41 Anari 261 Bernardo 141 Burrata 106. 38–39 Brillat-Savarin 15. 98 Cairnsmore Ewes 207 Quickes Hard Goat 190 Boulette de Cambrai 40 Calcagno 110 R&R Cheddar 297 Boulette de Papleux 98 Camembert & Camembert-style 15. 15. 25 Beauvale 171 Brocciu & Brocciu-style Carré de l’Est 45 ageing process 7 Beechers Flagship Reserve 274 Brocciu AOC 43 Carré Saint-Domnin (Saint-Domnin) Agrì di Valtorta 141 Beenleigh Blue 171 Brocciu Pasu 43 84 Ahumado de Pría 146 Beenoskee 218 Petit Nuage 325 Casatella Trevigiana PDO 113 Akkawi 264 Beijing Red 322 Brossauthym 43 Cascaval PDO 260 Allegretto 310 Beira Baixa (Castelo Branco DOP) Bruny Island C2 328 Casciotta d’Urbino PDO 113 Allerdale 170 165 Bruny Island Lewis 328 Cashel Blue 218. 234 Fougerus 59 Cantal AOC 45 Abbaye de la Pierre-qui-Vire 31 Bayerische Bierkäse (Weisslacker) Le Petit Chèvre Bleu 290 Canterbury Cobble 173 Abbaye de Tamié 31 235 Pont Gar 214 Capra Nouveau 174 Abbaye de Troisvaux 98 Bayley Hazen Blue 273 Ragstone 190 Capri Lezeen 45 Aberwen 212 Beato de Tábara 147 St Endellion 195 Capricorn Giat 15 Abondance AOC 31 Beaufort AOC 18. 25. 46–47 Brie de Melun AOC 15. 178–79. 171 see also Caciocavallo. 20–21. Shelburne Cheddar 298 Bachensteiner 236 Bra PDO 105 14. 110 A Casinca 32 Bath Soft Cheese 170 Brie de Nangis 42 Canestrato di Pecora 142 A Filetta 32 Battenkill Brebis 273 Clava Brie 207 Canestrato Pugliese PDO 111 Abbaye de Cîteaux 30 Bauernkäse 141 Coulommiers 52 Canestrato di Vacca 142 Abbaye du Mont des Cats 30 Bauma Carrat 147 Evansdale Farmhouse Brie 338 Cantabria DOP 150 Abbaye Notre-Dame de Belloc 30 Bavaria Blu 21. 42 Capricorn Goat 174 Ädelost 248 Beaufort d’Alpage 38 Brindamour (Fleur du Maquis) 58 Caprino Fresco 111 afﬁneurs 7 Beaufort d’Hiver 38 Brique du Forez 42 Caprino Stagionato 111 Afuega’l Pitu DOP 146 Chalet d’Alpage 38 British and Irish cheeses 168–70 Carnia 113 aged fresh cheeses 8. 321 St George 297 B Bouquetin de Portneuf 311 Bourrée 277 Bavaria Blu 21. 170–206 Gaperon 60 Harvest Moon 314 Crémeux du Puy 53 Epoisses & Epoisses-style Garrotxa 154 Harzer Käse 234 Crescent Dairy Farmhouse 337 Abbaye de la Pierre-qui-Vire 31 Geitenkaas Met Kruiden 228 Havarti & Havarti-style 17. Erzincan 261 Glebe Brethan 220 Heidi Farm Raclette 330 92 Esrom PGI 246 Gloucester herbed cheeses 23 Pine Stump Crottin 308 Evansdale Farmhouse Brie 338 Double Gloucester 177 Boulette d’Avesnes 40 Crowdie 207. 21. 262–63 Crabotin 98 Klasiskais 252 Galotiri DOC 257 Zany Zeus Halloumi 343 Crayeux de Roncq 52 Maasdam 229 Gammelost 247 Handkäse 233. 228. 25 Gruyère d’Alpage 238 Comté AOC 56–57 Eden 281 Frisian Farms Mature Gouda 283 Gruyère Surchoix 285 Constant Bliss 280 Edith (Woodside Edith) 334 Fromage du Pays Nantais dit du Heidi Farm Gruyère 330 Coolea 219 Elk Mountain 282 Curé (Curé Nantais) 53 Herrgårdsost 249 Cooleeney 219 Embruns aux Algues 55 fromage fort 40 Pleasant Ridge Reserve 293 Coppermine 336 Emmentaler & Emmentaler-style Pot Corse 78 Gubbeen 221 Corleggy 219 Allgäuer Bergkäse PDO 233 fromage frais 11. Fowlers Forest Blue 181 Bettelmatt 103 Coeur de Touraine 52 321 Francis 182 Graviera DOC 256 ColoRouge. 286 Formai de Mut dell’Alta Valle Grana Padano PDO 19. 67 fresh cheeses 8. 197 Boulette de Papleux 98 Le Cru des Erables 313 Ewe’s Blue 282 see also Snodsbury Goat Brossauthym 43 Crutin 115 Exmoor Blue PGI 180 Goatzarella 283 Dauphin 54 347 curds Golden Cenarth 213 Fleur du Maquis 58 Cheddar Curds 312 Golden Cross 182 Geitenkaas Met Kruiden 228 Meadowcroft Farm Goat’s Curd 340 F Golden Glen Creamery Mozzarella 307 Grace 221 Keiems Bloempje 226 Schichtkäse 235 Fermentation process 7 Gorgonzola & Gorgonzola-style Mossﬁeld Organic 223 Curé Nantais 53 Ferns Edge Goat Dairy 307 Bavaria Blu 234 Piacere 315 Curio Bay Pecorino 337 Feta & Feta-style 11. 229 Herve Remoudou 225 Le Délice des Appalaches 313 Fiore Sardo PDO 115 Northumberland 187 history of cheese and cheesemaking 6 Fium’Orbu 58 Oakdale Gouda 292 Hobelkäse 238 . 22. 253 Fouchtra 59 Grayson 284 Clemson Blue 279 Fougerus 59 Great Hill Blue 284 climate. 224. 255 Cornish Blue 175 Pont Gar 214 Curworthy 176 Beyaz Peynir 261 Gippsland Blue 328 Potaje 325 Cypriot cheeses 261–63 Big Island Feta 275 Gorgonzola PDO 20. Sussex Slipcote Garlic & Herb 199 D Manouri 257 Weisslacker 235 230–31 Coolea 219 Tétoun de Santa Agata 89 Tilsiterkäse 235 Danablu 245 Yarra Valley Dairy Persian Fetta Frisian Farms Mature Gouda 283 Valle D’Aosta Fromadzo PDO 143 Danbo 245 334 Geitenkaas Met Kruiden 228 Wedmore 203 Danish Blue (Danablu) 245 Yerba Santa Dairy Fresca 309 Ilha Graciosa 166 Windrush 205 Danish cheeses 244. 22–23. 53. 322 see also Snodsbury Goat 117 Graciosa (Ilha Graciosa) 166 Chorherrenkäse 236 Dragon’s Breath Blue 314 Formaggio Ubriaco 117 Grafton Cheddar 283 Christian IX (Danbo) 245 Dry Jack 18. 240–41 fruitières 56. 251 Nagelkaas 23. 181 Telford Reserve 301 Chevrotin des Aravis AOC 49 Doddington 177 Foglie de Castagno 116 Tilsit 235 Chevrotin des Bauges AOC 51 Dôme de Vézelay 54 Fontal 116 Tilsiterkäse 235 Chimay Dorset 281 Fontina PDO 116 Gour Blanc 61 Chimay à la Bière 225 Dorset Blue Vinny 177 Formaggella del Luinese PDO 117 Gour Noir 61 Vieux Chimay 227 Double Gloucester 177 Formaggio di Fossa di Sogliano PDO Grace 221 Chinese cheeses 321. 25 Crémet du Cap Blanc-Nez 98 English cheeses 169. 10–23 Dirt Lover 281 Fleur du Maquis 58 São Jorge DOP 167 see also speciﬁc cheeses Dirty Devil 337 see also Piacere Steamboat Island Goat Farm Cheshire & Cheshire-style 175 Dobbiaco 115 ﬂeurines 36 Gouda 309 Anster 206 DOC (Denominazione d’Origine Flor de Guîa 151 Teiﬁ Farmhouse 215 Chèvre in Blue 279 Controllata) 8 Flower Marie 15. 260 Fourme de Montbrison AOC 60 Gruyère & Gruyère-style 19. 233–35 Oltermanni 251 Bellwether Farms Crescenza 274 Langres AOC 62 Géromé (Munster AOC) 68 Turunmaa 251 Crottin 215. 40 Gunnamatta Gold 329 Cornelia 280 Allgäuer Emmentaler PDO 233 fruited cheeses 34 Gympie Farmhouse Chèvre 329 Cornish Blue 175 Emmental de Savoie 55 Wensleydale with Cranberries 22 Cote Hill Blue 175 Emmentaler 19. microclimate and landscape Fourme d’Ambert AOC 60 Greek cheeses 255. 210 Everona Piedmont 282 Holy Smoked 183 Boulette de Cambrai 40 Crozier Blue 220 Évora DOP 166 Single Gloucester PDO 183. 74 Cotherstone 176 cottage cheese 11 Fontal 116 Graviera DOC 256 H Coulommiers 52 Grevéost 249 G Hafod 213 INDEX Coupole 280 Jarlsberg 247 Halloumi 11. 223 Palet de Bourgogne 69 Gippsland Blue 328 Healey’s Pyengana 329 Bouquetin de Portneuf 311 Soumaintrain 88 Gjetost 247 Heidi Farm Gruyère 330 Crottin de Chavignol AOC 13. 120 Ch’ti Roux 51 Duddleswell 180 Brembana PDO 120 Grand Queso 284 Cilantro Fresh Chevre 336 Dunlop 208 Forme d’Antoine 59 Gratte-Paille 61 Cîteaux (Abbaye de Cîteaux) 30 Durrus 220 Fort de Béthune 99 Graviera DOC 256 City of Ships 279 Dutch cheeses 224. 256–59 7 Clochette 13. 10–11. 25 St Jorge 297 types of cheese 8. 108–09 Rosemary’s Waltz 296 Bryndza PGI 260 West West Blue 305 Sage Derby 194 Feta PDO 258–59 Gouda & Gouda-style 19.cheesemaking Denomination and Designation of 5 Spoke Creamery Browning Gold Old Grizzly 315 history of 6 Origin 8 306 Ribblesdale Original Goat 194 techniques 7 Derby 194 ﬂavor-added cheeses 8. MouCo 291 Mahoe Vintage Edam 339 French cheeses 26–99 Gruyère AOC 238 Comfort Cream 313 Mimolette 19. 22. 235 Creamery Subblime 307 Samsø 246 Gamonedo DOP 151 hard cheeses 8. 18–19. 224. 51 E Fourme de Laguiole (Laguiole AOC) 61 Green Peppercorn Chèvre 285 Grevéost 249 Coeur de Neufchâtel AOC 49 Eastern European cheeses 255. 228–31 Fort Grey 181 Graviera Naxos 256 Clava Brie 207 Dziugas 244. 246 Crescenza & Crescenza-style 114 Epoisses de Bourgogne AOC 64–65 German cheeses 232. 245–46 Feuille de Dreux 55 Karikaas Vintage Leyden 339 Hereford Hop 182 Danish Port Salut see Esrom PGI Figuette 58 Leidse Kaas AOC 229 Herreño 154 Dauphin 54 Finlandia Cheese (Oltermanni) 251 Meyer Vintage Gouda 340 Herrgårdsost 249 Daylesford Cheddar 176 Finn 180 Mossﬁeld Organic 223 Herve PDO 225 Deauville 54 Finnish cheeses 244. 243 Coeur de Rollot (Rollot) 80 Edam & Edam-style 17. 18. 290 Bio Paulus 236 I Lewis (Bruny Island Lewis) 328 Liébana DOP 155 Young Jack 286 Los Montes de Toledo 156 Bleu Mont Cheddar 277 Blue Heaven 172 Ibérico 154 Limburger 234 Morbier AOC 67 Burrata 336 Ibores DOP 155 Lincolnshire Poacher 185 see also La Barre du Jour Coppermine 336 Idiazábal DOP 23. 290 Dry Jack 286 Labane 265 Laguiole AOC 61 Midcoast Teleme 308 Milk Cake 322 O Dziugas 253 Mahón DO 152–53 Lagundo 141 Milleens 222 OOakdale Gouda 292 Parmigiano-Reggiano PDO 18. 247–48 Pannerone Lodigiano 125 DOP) 149 Mercer Maasdam 340 Notre-Dame de Belloc (Abbaye Pant-Ys-Gawn 213 La Barre du Jour 311 Meredith Blue 332 Notre-Dame de Belloc) 30 Parihaka 342 La Peral 159 Mesost 250 nut cheeses 23 Parmigiano-Reggiano (Parmesan) & la Pierre-qui-Vire (Abbaye de la Mexican cheeses 269. 223 Mâconnais AOC 66 Mozzarella di Bufala PDO 118–19 Sussex Slipcote 199 Bouton-de-Culotte 40 Mozzarella Passita (Scamorza) 135 Trader Lake Cedar 303 K INDEX Mahoe Vintage Edam 339 Shaw River Buffalo Mozzarella Vaquero Blue 304 Mahón DO 152–53 333 Original Blue (Point Reyes Original Kachokabaro 323 Mainzer 234 Munster AOC 68. 323–25 Goatzarella 283 Pavé de la Ginestarie 70 Jarlsberg 247 Jensen’s Red Washed Rind 331 M Golden Glen Creamery Mozzarella 307 Pink & White Terraces 342 Raclette de Compton au Poivre Jersey Shield 188 Maasdam 229 Laverstoke Ciliegine 185 316 Juustoleipä 244. 121 Norsworthy 187 Palet de Bourgogne 69 L Mayﬁeld 186 Maytag Blue 290 North American cheeses 266–318 Northumberland 187 Palmero DOP 157 Pannarello 123 La Aulaga Camerano (Camerano Meadowcroft Farm Goat’s Curd 340 Norwegian cheeses 244. 99 Blue) 295 Kallarney Blue 338 Maiochino (Piacentinu Ennese PDO) Murazzano PDO 122 Original Goat (Ribblesdale Original Karikaas Vintage Leyden 339 127 Murcia al Vino DOP 157 Goat) 194 Kaseri DOC 256 Majorero DOP 156 Mutschli 239 Orkney 209 Kearney Blue 184 Manchego & Manchego-style Pleasant Valley Dairy Mutschli Ossau-Iraty & Ossau-Iraty-style Kebbuck 208 Grand Queso 284 308 Ossau au Piment d’Espelette 69 Kefalotyri DOC 257 Manchego DOP 18. 86 Trappist-style cheeses Old Grizzly 315 Pas de Rouge 226 Larzac 289 Monet 291 Old Kentucky Tome 293 Pasiego de las Garmillas 157 Latteria 127 Mont des Cats (Abbaye du Mont des Old Sarum 188 Passendale 226 Latteria Turnaria 120 Cats) 30 Old Smales (Old Winchester) 188 . Hocpustertaler (Pusteria) 142 Latvian cheeses 244. or Pas de Bleu 225 see also Nökkelost Mezzo Secco 286. 215–23 Livarot & Livarot-style Mossﬁeld Organic 223 Grace 221 Ironstone Extra 331 Deauville 54 Mothais-sur-Feuille 68 Gunnamatta Gold 329 Isle of Mull Cheddar 208 Livarot AOC 63 MouCo ColoRouge 291 Hafod 213 Isle of Wight Blue 183 livestock and grazing habits 7 mold-ripened cheeses see soft white Holy Goat La Luna 330 Israeli cheeses 255. 335–43 Pablo Cabrito 189 348 Krievijas 252 Vieux-Lilles 97 Nîmois 99 Paglierina 123 Kunik 289 Marzolino 121 Nisa DOP 166 Paglietta (Paglierina) 123 Mascare 99 Nökkelost 248 Le Paillasson de l’isle d’Orléans 315 Mascarpone 11. 67 Ocooch Mountain 293 128–29 Lanark Blue 209 Mona 291 Ogleshield 188 Sbrinz AOC 239 Lancashire 184 monastery-style cheeses see OKA Clasique 314 Pas de Bleu 225 Langres AOC 17. 251 Mercer Maasdam 340 Lubelski 255 St Tola Log 13. 286 Bio. 160–61 Myzithra 257 Ossau-Iraty AOC 69 Keiems Bloempje 226 Manouri 257 Tomme de Brebis Corse 90 Keltic Gold 184 Maroilles & Maroilles-style Ossolano 123 Kernhem 228 Ketem 13. 318 Taramundi 22. 19 Pierre-qui-Vire ) 31 Meyer Vintage Gouda 340 American Grana 270 La Sauvagine 317 Mezzo Secco 286. 292 Keiems Bloempje 226 Losange de Saint-Paul 98 Mt Tamahunga 341 Laverstoke Ciliegine 185 J Lou Rocaillou 63 Lou Sotch 63 mountain cheeses 6 Mountain Top Bleu 292 Little Ryding 186 Mossﬁeld Organic 223 Jack (Monterey Jack) 286–87 Lubelski 255 Mozzarella & Mozzarella-style 11 Mt Tam 276. 19. 62. 292 Jacks’ Cheese 286 Lucullus 66 Buffalo Mozzarella 335 Parihaka 342 Janu Siers 244. 229 King Christian (Danbo) 245 Dauphin 54 Neudorf Richmond Red 341 Kinzell Creek 339 Klasiskais 252 Fort de Béthune 99 Maroilles AOC 66 Neufchâtel 49 New Forest Blue 187 P Knockdrinna Gold 222 Rollot 80 New Zealand cheeses 327. 162 Parmigiano-Reggiano-style 6. L’Alt Urgell y La Cerdanya DOP 146 Mimolette 19. 252–53 Mont d’Or & Mont d’Or-style Old Winchester 188 Hohepa Danbo 338 Laverstoke Ciliegine 185 Cabri Ariégeois 44 Olivet 69 Hoja Santa 285 Lavistown 222 Mont d’Or AOC 67 Olivet Cendré 69 Holy Goat La Luna 330 Lavort 62 Pechegos 71 Olivet au Foin 69 Holy Goat Pandora 331 Le Cabanon 312 Mont Ventoux 99 Olivet Poivre 69 Holy Smoked 183 Le Cendré des Prés 312 Montasio Olmützer Quargel 234 Hooligan 288 Le Cru des Erables 313 Montasio PDO 121 Oltermanni 251 Hopelessly Blue 308 Le Délice des Appalaches 313 Montasio (Samish Bay Cheese) Oregon Blue 299 Hubbardston Blue 288 Le Paillasson de l’isle d’Orléans 315 308 organic cheeses Huckleberry Blue 288 Le Petit Chèvre Bleu 290 Monte Enebro 156 Alpine 270 Humboldt Fog 289 Le Sabot de Blanchette 316 Monte Veronese PDO 122 Aroha with Fenugreek 335 Hushållsost 249 Lebanese cheeses 264 Monterey Jack 286–87 Bath Soft Cheese 170 Leidse Kaas AOC 229 Dry Jack 18. 252 Burrata 106. 253 Morlacco 122 Daylesford Cheddar 176 Inbar 264 Little Ann 185 Morn Dew 190 Ferns Edge Goat Dairy 307 Innes Button 25. 264–65 Lord London 186 cheeses Holy Goat Pandora 331 Italian cheeses 100–43 Lord of the Hundreds 186 Mt Eliza Red Leicester 341 Huckleberry Blue 288 Los Montes de Toledo 156 Mt Tam 276. 183 Little Ryding 186 Morvan 68 Goatzarella 283 Irish cheeses 168. 155 Lingot de la Ginestarie 62 Mori No Cheese 323 Creamery Subblime 307 Ilha Graciosa 166 Lithuanian cheeses 244. 336 Pas de Rouge 226 Japanese cheeses 321. 19. 264 Baguette Laonnaise 33 Boulette d’Avesnes 40 N Oštiepok PGI 260 Oszczypek 260 Killeen Goat 221 Boulette de Papleux 98 Nagelkaas 23. 229 Port Salut & Port Salut-style 77 Ricotta & Ricotta-style 11 Sardo 319 Nökkelost 248 Esrom PGI 246 Cacioricotta 141 Sarments d’Amour 87 Oakdale Gouda 292 Oka Classique 314 Ricotta Affumicata 112. 133 Perroche 189 Raclette & Raclette-style 239 Saint-Domnin 84 San Simón da Costa DOP 162 Persian Fetta. 245 Samsø 245. 246 Inbar 264 Pont Gar 214 Juustoleipä 251. 296 Seven-Year-Old Orange Cheddar 317 Pavé de Moyaux 70 Provolone Valpadana PDO 131 Rollot 80 Sharpham Rustic 196 Pavé de Roubaix (Pavé du Nord) 71 Provolone Valpadana Dolce 131 Romanian cheeses 260 Shaw River Buffalo Mozzarella 333 Pavé du Nord 71 Provolone Valpadana Piccante 131 Roncal DOP 159 Shelburne Cheddar 298 Pavé du Plessis 70 Puant de Lille (Vieux-Lille) 97 Roquefort & Roquefort-style Shepherd’s Gem 307 Pavin 71 Pusteria 142 Alpine Lakes Creamery Bleu 306 Shipcord 196 Payoyo 158 Pustertaler (Pusteria) 142 Bleu Age 307 Shropshire Blue 197 PDO (Protected Designation of Puzzone di Moena PDO 131 Bleu d’Auvergne AOC 35 Sierra Nevada Cream Cheese 299 Origin) 8 Pyengana (Healey’s Pyengana) 329 Bleu des Causses AOC 36 Sieur de Duplessis 317 Pechegos 71 Crozier Blue 220 Signal 88 Pecorino 18 Ewe’s Blue 282 Silter 142 Curio Bay Pecorino 337 Lord of the Hundreds 186 Q Lanark Blue 209 Maytag Blue 290 Single Gloucester PDO 183. Yarra Valley Dairy 334 La Barre du Jour 311 St Eadburgha 195 Scamorza Affumicata 135 Persillé de Tignes 50. 92 Pata de Mulo 158 Provolone & Provolone-style Robiola d’Alba 134 semi-soft cheeses 8. 309 Pecorino di Laticauda 142 see also Schichtkäse Rosa Camuna 132 smear-ripened cheeses 17 Pecorino di Pienza 125 Quartirolo Lombardo PDO 131 Rosa Rugosa 307 Smelly Ha’peth 197 Pecorino Romano PDO 126 see also Salva Cremasco Rosary Plain 194 smoked cheeses 22. 23 Pecorino Sardo PDO 126 Queijo Minas 319 Rosemary’s Waltz 296 Ahumado de Pría 146 Pecorino Sardo Dolce 126 Queso Anejo 318 Rouelle du Tarn 80 Ardrahan 215 Pecorino Sardo Maturo 126 Queso Blanco 318 Rove Cendré 80 Ardsallagh 215 Pecorino Siciliano PDO 9. 302 Persillé des Thônes 99 Raclette fumée 78 St Gall 223 Sniega bumbas 253 Le Petit Chèvre Bleu 290 Raclette la moutarde 78 St George 297 Snodsbury Goat 198 Petit Fiancé des Pyrénées 73 Raclette de Savoie 78 St Jorge 297 Soera (Sola) 135 Petit Nuage 325 Raclette au vin blanc 78 Saint-Marcellin 85 Soft Wheel 299 Piacentinu Ennese PDO 127 Racotin 79 see also Saint-Félicien soft white cheeses 8. 126 Queso Blanco Pais 286 Rove des Garrigues 81 Billy’s Smokey Goat 172 Pecorino Toscano PDO 127 Queso de Cabra Ruﬁno (Cabra Royal Wotton Blue 204 Fiore Sardo PDO 115 Sardo 319 Ruﬁno) 149 Ru-bing 322 Frisian Farms Mature Gouda 283 Pedrazzi’s Jack Cheese 286 Queso Fresco 318 Rubens 227 Gamonedo DOP 151 Pélardon & Pélardon-style Queso de Mano 295 Russian Cheese 252 Gaperon 60 Ketem 13. 138 Piave PDO 127 Ragusano PDO 133 Golden Cross 182 Sora (Sola) 135. 255 San Joaquin Gold 298 Janu Siers 244. 165–67 Ricotta di Bufala Campana PDO Saval 214 Burrata 106 Postel 227 142 Sbrinz AOC 239 Kaseri DOC 256 Pot Corse 78 Ricotta Romano PDO 134 Scamorza 135 Ragusano PDO 133 Potaje 325 Ridder 248 Scamorza Affumicata 135 Scamorza 135 Pouligny-Saint-Pierre AOC 78. Mozzarella. Soumaintrain 88 Picos de Europa (Valdeón DO) 164 re-formed cheeses 22. Pride of Bacchus 282 Murazzano PDO 122 Seastack 298 Provolone Primo Sale 124. 146–64 Pierre-qui-Vire) 31 Abbaye de Tamié 31 Pavin 71 spiced cheeses 23 Pierre-Robert 73 Chevrotin des Aravis AOC 49 Saint-Nectaire AOC 85 Afuega’l Pitu DOP 146 Pine Stump Crottin 308 Chevrotin des Bauges AOC 51 Saint-Nicolas-de-la-Dalmerie 85 Altenburger Ziegenkäse PDO 233 Pink & White Terraces 342 Crémeux du Puy 53 St Oswald 195 Aroha with Fenugreek 335 Pithiviers 77 Reblochon de Savoie AOC 74–75 St Swithin’s with Lavender 196 La Barre du Jour 311 Pleasant Ridge Reserve 293 Red Hawk 296 St Tola Log 13. 14–15. 92–93 South American cheeses 269. 264 Queso Nata de Cantabria (Cantabria Rustic (Sharpham Rustic) 196 Herreño 154 Pélardon AOC 72 DOP) 150 Holy Smoked 183 INDEX Pélardon d’Altier 72 Queso del Pais 286 Idiazábal DOP 23. 125. 155 Pélardon d’Anduze 72 Pélardon des Cévennes 72 Quickes Hard Goat 190 S Liébana DOP 155 Oštiepok PGI 260 Peña Blanca de Corrales 158 Sablé de Wissant 81 Palmero DOP 157 Pendragon 189 Pérail 72 R Le Sabot de Blanchette 316 Sage Derby 194 Pendragon 189 Pont Gar 214 La Peral 159 RR&R Cheddar 297 St Benedict the Black 342 Raclette fumée 78 Perl Las 214 Rachel 190 Saint-Christophe 81 Ricotta Affumicata 112. 92 Rigotte de Condrieu AOC 79 Scandinavian cheeses 244–53 Stracciata 143 Pozo Tomme 309 rind-ﬂavored cheeses 22. 141. 72 Heidi Farm Raclette 330 St Endellion 195 Smokey Blue Cheese 299. 21. 16–17. 319 Pierre-qui-Vire (Abbaye de la Reblochon & Reblochon-style Saint-Nectaire & Saint-Nectaire-style Spanish cheeses 145. 223 Boulette de Papleux 98 Pleasant Valley Dairy Mutschli 308 Red Leicester 191 Sakura 324 Dauphin 54 Point Reyes Original Blue 295 Mt Eliza Red Leicester 341 Salva Cremasco PDO 135 Havarti 246 Pondhopper 295 reindeer-milk cheese 6. 206–11 see also Caciocavallo. 25 Monte Enebro 156 Kaseri DOC 256 Robiola di Roccaverano PDO 134 Serendipity 325 Pavé d’Auge 70 Provolone PDO 130 Rocaillou (Lou Rocaillou) 63 Serpa DOP 167 Pavé Blésois 70 Provolone (Japan) 324 Rocamadour AOC 79 Serra da Estrela DOP 167 Pavé de la Ginestarie 70 Provolone del Monaco PDO 130 Rogue River Blue 294. 130 Robiola (Japan) 324 Selles-sur-Cher AOC 76. 138 Picodon AOC 73 Raschera PDO 133 Saint-Christophe 81 Sotch (Lou Sotch) 63 Picón Bejes Tresviso DOP 159 Ravens Oak Wood 191 Saint-Maure de Touraine AOC 13. 302 Persillé des Aravis 99 Raclette de Compton au Poivre Saint-Félicien 84 Up in Smoke 308 Persillé des Grand-Bornand 99 316 Saint-Florentin 84 Smokey Blue Cheese 299.pasta ﬁlata cheeses 262 Portuguese cheeses 145. 82–83 Slow Food movement 120. 197 Slovakian cheeses 260 Pecorino Crotonese 125 Quark Roquefort AOC 20. 87. 252 Pont l’Evêque & Pont l’Evêque-style Remembered Hills 191 San Simón da Costa DOP 162 Karikaas Vintage Leyden 339 Deauville 54 Requeijão Cremoso 319 Sancerrois 87 Klasiskais 252 Pavé d’Auge 70 Ribblesdale Original Goat 194 São Jorge DOP 167 Leidse Kaas AOC 229 Pont-l’Evêque AOC 77 Richard Thomas Fromage Blanc 332 Sapsago (Schabziger) 242 Nagelkaas 23. Pecorino di Filiano PDO 142 Surﬁng Goat Dairy Quark 300 Turkeez 265 275. 23 Schabziger 242 Vastedda della Valle del Belice Prästost 250 Roaring Forties 332 Schichtkäse 235 PDO 143 Prestige 316 Robiola Scottish cheeses 168. 25 Ragstone 190 349 Piacere 315 Sainte-Maure & Sainte-Maure-style Sola 135. 23 24. 133 La Sauvagine 317 Piacentinu Ennese PDO 127 . 19 starter cultures 7 Tomme de Chèvre des Charentes Camembert de Normandie AOC 6. 252 Twig Farm Square Cheese 304 143 Tilsiterkäse 235 Two Faced Blue Peccato 309 Västerbottenost 250 tipicità 8 Tymsboro 202 vegetarian rennet cheeses Tiroler Graukäse PDO 237 Exmoor Plue PGI 180 Toma 140 Goatzarella 283 Toma Piemontese PDO 139 Tome 140 U see also thistle rennet cheeses Venaco 96 Tomino di Melle 140 U Bel Fiuritu 95 Ventadour 97 Tomme 139 U Pecurinu 96 Vermont Shepherd 305 Appalachian 271 Umbriaco 103 Vezzena 140 Elk Mountain 282 United States cheeses 270–309 Vieux Chimay 227 Old Kentucky Tome 293 unpasteurized cheeses Vieux-Boulogne 97 Pozo Tomme 309 Ancient Heritage Scio 306 Vieux-Lille 97 Shipcord 196 Anster 206 Vorarlberger Bergkäse PDO 237 Thomasville Tomme 301 Ascutney Mountain Cheese 272 Vulscombe 203 Tomme à l’Ancienne 90 Awe Brie 272 Tomme de Bargkas 99 Bagòss 102 Tomme des Bauges AOC 89 Battenkill Brebis 273 . 212–15. 24. 238–43 Abbaye du Mont des Cats 30 Reblochon de Savoie AOC 74–75 Wild Garlic Yarg 200 Abbaye Notre-Dame de Belloc 30 Rogue River Blue 296 Wiltshire Loaf 204 Abbaye de la Pierre-qui-Vire 31 Rosa Rugosa 307 Windrush 205 T Abbaye de Tamié 31 Bio Paulus 236 St Gall 223 St George 297 wine with cheeses 25 see also speciﬁc cheeses Taleggio & Taleggio-style Chimay à la Bière 225 Saint-Nicolas-de-la-Dalmerie 85 Winnimere 306 Dorset 281 Chorherrenkäse 236 Shelburne Cheddar 298 Winterdale Shaw 205 Taleggio PDO 17. 136–37 Losange de Saint-Paul 98 Shepherd’s Gem 307 Woodside Edith 334 Tamié (Abbaye de Tamié) 31 OKA Clasique 314 Sieur de Duplessis 317 Woolsery Goat 205 Taramundi 22. 248–50 Abbaye de Troisvaux 98 Raclette de Compton au Poivre 316 Widmers Cellar Brick Cheese 309 Swiss cheeses 232. 24. 17 Stilfser (Stelvio PDO) 143 Tumalo Tomme 303 Cote Hill Blue 175 Washington Washrind 334 Stilton & Stilton-style Tommette Creamery Subblime 307 Waterloo 203 Shropshire Blue 197 Ashed Tomette 272 Dôme de Vézelay 54 Wedmore 203 Stichelton 198 Tommette Brebis des Alpes 94 Dorset Blue Vinny 177 Weinkäse 237 Stilton PDO 20. Healey’s Pyengana 329 Steamboat Island Goat Farm Gouda 91 14. 15. 91 Cayuse Mountain Goat 307 see also Edam.lers 163 Pechegos 71 Mesost 250 Suffolk Gold 199 Trader Lake Cedar 303 Petit Fiancé des Pyrénées 73 Myzithra 257 Surﬁng Goat Dairy Quark 300 Trappe de Beval 98 Pleasant Valley Dairy Mutschli Petit Nuage 325 Sussex Blue 186 Trappe d’Echourgnac 94 308 see also Ricotta Sussex Slipcote 199 Trappist-style cheeses 6. Schabziger 242 Tilsiterkäse 235 Tomme de Beijing 322 Tomme de Brebis Corse 90 Beenoskee 218 Bettelmatt 103 W Young Jack 286 Tomme Caprine des Pyrénées 90 Big Woods Blue 275 Wabash Cannonball 305 Spressa delle Giudicarie PDO 139 Tomme de Chartreux 91 Bio. or Pas de Bleu 225 Waimata Camembert 343 Squacquarone di Romagna PDO 143 Tomme de Chèvre 242 Cabot Clothbound 278 washed-curd cheeses 17. 46 Murcia al Vino DOP 157 309 Tomme Fleurette 242 Camembleu 323 Norsworthy 187 Stelvio PDO 143 Tomme de Savoie 89. 216–17 Stinking Bishop 17. 92 Zany Zeus Halloumi 343 Nisa DOP 166 Tumbleweed 304 Cerney Pyramid 174 Zfatit 265 Serpa DOP 167 Tunworth 202 Valle D’Aosta Fromadzo PDO 143 350 Serra da Estrela DOP 167 Tupí 164 Valle Maggia 243 Tortas Extremeñas 163 Turkeez 265 Valtellina Casera PDO 143 Thomasville Tomme 301 Turkish cheeses 261 Vaquero Blue 304 Ticklemore Goat 202 Turunmaa 251 Vastedda della Valle del Belice PDO Tilsit 235. 162 Pas de Rouge 226 Telford Reserve 301 Wyfe of Bath 206 Tarentais 88 Trappe de Beval 98 Tomme Fleurette 242 INDEX Tarentaise (Spring Brook Farm) 300 Trappe d’Echourgnac 94 Tumalo Tomme 303 Tarentaise (Thistle Hill Farm) 300 Taupinette Charentaise 89 Vieux Chimay 227 Trentingrana PDO 140 Tumbleweed 304 Vache de Vashon 309 Y Taupinière 301 Triklantlers Reserve 253 West West Blue 305 Yayak milk 6 Teiﬁ Farmhouse 215 Triple Cream Wheel 303 Up in Smoke 308 Yama No Cheese 325 Telford Reserve 301 Trois Cornes de Vendée 95 Yarg Cornish Cheese 22. 198 Torta 5 Spoke Creamery Browning Gold Wensleydale Stony Man 282 Cabra Ruﬁno 149 306 Wensleydale PGI 204 Stormy 333 Cañarejal 149 Great Hill Blue 284 Wensleydale with Cranberries 22 Stracchino di Gorgonzola (Gorgonzola Los Montes de Toledo 156 Huckleberry Blue 288 West West Blue 305 PDO) 20. 200–01 terroir 8 Troisvaux (Abbaye de Troisvaux) 98 Yarra Valley Dairy Persian Fetta 334 Tête de Moine AOC 242 Tetilla DO 162 Tronchón 163 Trouville 70 V Yerba Santa Dairy Fresca 309 yogurt-based cheeses: Labane 265 Tétoun de Santa Agata 89 Truffe de Valensole 95 Vache de Vashon 309 Young Jack 286 thermized cheeses 19 trufﬂe cheeses Vacherin & Vacherin-style thistle rennet cheeses Caciotta al Tartufo 110 Golden Cenarth 213 Cañarejal 149 Castelo Branco DOP 165 Crutin 115 Truffe de Valensole 95 Vacherin Fribourgeois AOC 243 Vacherin Mont d’Or AOC 17. 164 Zamorano DO 164 Flor de Guîa 151 Tumalo Tomme 303 Valençay & Valençay-style 13. 44. Gouda Stichelton 198 Tomme Vaudoise 242 Constant Bliss 280 washed-rind cheeses 16. 192–93 Tommette de Chèvre des Bauges Durrus 220 Weisslacker 235 White Stilton PDO 204 94 Exmoor Blue PGI 180 Welsh cheeses 169. 108–09 Torta de Barros 163 Innes Button 25. 25. 21. 183 whey cheeses 11 Stracciata 143 Torta del Casar 163 Keiems Bloempje 226 Anthotyros DOC 256 Strachìtunt PDO 139 Torta La Serena 149. 243 Z Évora DOP 166 Tulum 261 Valdeón DO 25. 21. 16 Prestige 316 White Stilton PDO 204 Swaledale Goat 199 Abbaye de Cîteaux 30 Queso de Mano 295 Whitestone Windsor Blue 343 Swedish cheeses 244. 163 Little Ann 185 Brocciu AOC 43 Strathdon Blue 209 Tortas Extremeñas 163 Norsworthy 187 Manouri 257 Strzelecki Blue 333 Tou del Til. which supplies many of the education. and culinary educator. she has the history. food consultant. caterer. to Canadian Artisanal and Fine Cheese (a World of cheeses for future generations. BRAZIL. After emigrating to started her own cheese shop. Ran wrote specialty cheeses for more than three decades. and international dairy magazines. Talbott & Arding. as Fermier. origin. and in Hudson. an Italian dairy magazine. Together. and co-author THE NETHERLANDS: Aad Vernooij has of The Deﬁnitive Canadian Wine and Cheese ITALY: Vincenzo Bozzetti began his career as a been working in the Information Department Cookbook. Ran established two cheese importing AUSTRALIA: Will Studd has worked with began at the age of eight. author of The Deﬁnitive Guide preserving and furthering the quality and diversity PR consultant. Rie Hijikata began exploring cheese by studying living with Spanish and Catalan people. After working the key ﬁgures spreading information about and shop that brings Spanish food to British for 15 years in his own soft cheese plant. including Israel’s www. broadcaster. Sonoma. and in 2006. Jim Davies has helped to run the Great British selections of cheese in the southern United States. Will online portals. (France’s elite cheese brotherhood). MEXICO. Foods. and author with a Connection. published her ﬁrst book. AND ISRAEL: That knowledge base was expanded during a stay only Spanish farmhouse cheeses. Stéphane took over Androuet’s house. California.il was made the only Ambassadeur of the Guilde des SCOTLAND: Kevin John Broome took up a (where he co-writes a column about cheese with Fromagers and awarded the Ordre Mérite Agricole. has visited many places to see SPAIN AND PORTUGAL: Monika Linton Commercial School in Neufchâtel. from social work. Martin and his Kiwi wife Sarah 351 WALES: As a food writer. HUNGARY. and is also a successful script writer and CheeseofCanada. CYPRUS. full apprenticeship in cooking and went on to Ran Buck). which extended into several years locally sourced dishes. unique. In 2006. NORWAY. Kevin USA: Kate Arding is an independent dairy his cheese career during a one-year sabbatical has won many awards for his fresh. into the Cheese expert and chef Ran Buck studied at the at an organic cheesemaking farm in Switzerland. IRELAND: Dianne Curtin is a freelance food Sheana Davis. Hansueli started a cheese shop with instruction in the language and her experiences of his wife. making. SLOVAKIA. She is one of the judges at the Sagi Cooper started his culinary writing career in TV show Cheese Slices.Contributors FRANCE: As a native of Southern France. GREECE. and has written two books and he produces and presents the international on the Cotswolds. AND SWITZERLAND: JAPAN: In 1986. The Creators. at the New York Ideal Cheese Shop. moved to Australia. in Paris. wife attended university. Individuals of Irish Food. experiences and services while traveling between and in 2007. SWEDEN. high-quality. Louisiana. and New Orleans. As a supporter of artisan producers. which he European culture through cheese in Japan. where he acquired much of his cheese training. stylist. Cheese Festival and the British Cheese Awards. creator and owner of The Epicurean writer. Stéphane Blohorn is the product of a Provençal FINLAND.co.ca. In 2005. Rumiko Honma established several dairy books and many articles for Italian Hansueli Renz was born into a life of cheese. she set up a weekly artisan food market. She now specializes in afﬁnage. Cotswold Life magazine. they opened has had a lot of food experience. when it carried TURKEY. Following his campaign to British Cheese Awards 2002. co-founder of CULTURE magazine. After attending the cheeses. she at London’s Neal’s Yard Dairy. Today. a mostly French cheese company in Tokyo. he moved to New Orleans. he began training and teaching cheese is the author of a book on the history of ﬁne and as a member of La Société des fromages judges for commercial trades and cheese contests. du Québec. 21 years ago. local CANADA: Gurth Pretty is the founder of www. a highly respected warehouse from apprentice to master to expert. CONTRIBUTORS successful business it is today. New York. Armed with years of sold in 1987. Louisiana. He dreams of foods. they founded St. AND ARGENTINA: city’s restaurants and offers one of the largest of animals. Dutch cheeses. Dianne works closely with several organizations to promote Ireland’s Richard Sutton’s life-long love of cheese led him to regional produce. a community led her to present BBC cooking shows. customers. She offers a range of food In 2006. French Culinary Institute and specialized in cheese Rie now works for Fermier’s import department. Will has written several books. Angela Gray at Neal’s Yard Dairy in London. Returning to ENGLAND: Katie Jarvis’s interest in cheese Israel. Vincenzo has written GERMANY. Kate’s cheese career began started selling cheeses at the markets in former chef to the rich and famous. BELGIUM. when she spent a year companies and a concept cheese shop. achieve two Michelin stars for his cooking at both NEW ZEALAND: Martin Aspinwall started of his co-owned Channel Islands restaurants. write books. he was inducted into the Guilde des Fromagers He has a passion for seasonal. Rumiko has become one of founded Brindisa. he writes about food and reviews restaurants for guide to cheese written in Hebrew. LEBANON. James Cheese Company. is celebrating 20 years as chef. she Gvinot—the most complete and encompassing After establishing delicatessens in London. work at Paxton & Whitﬁeld in London. and has bakery and cheese shop. and a regular judge at the ACS. which shows in his love of the outdoors. guided the shop from its beginning. Her passion has moved to California to help establish Tomales Bay Canterbury Cheesemongers. and in 2002. he progressed the cheeses being made. Gourmand Cookbook award winner). He industry as chairman of the Ontario Cheese Society the industry. special interest in Irish artisan food production. where he and his . and participate in live cooking festivals. he is a manager and columnist for Il Latte. DENMARK. been helping small cheesemakers since 2003. He is active within the Canadian cheese dairy master in 1960. In 2007 he sold the shop and retired. both his father and grandfather specialized in Rumiko has always emphasized the origins of making soft cheese. and as such. He writes for several magazines as well as allow the sale of raw-milk cheese in Australia. and after nearly 40 years in of the Dutch Dairy Association since 1980. In 2014. from where she Christchurch. and terroir of cheeses. New Zealand. and consultant. and of the gifts of the land. AUSTRIA.ynet. 200 Alamy Images: Mike Greenslade Old Spitalﬁelds Market. Jonas Aurell at Scandinavian Kitchen. to achieving excellence. Linda Slide. Vera Chang for pictures of Shelburne (l).Les Courtenay: (tl) (tr). 201 Lynher Dairies Cheese Company Ltd: (tl) (tr). Syndicat Interprofessionnel du Reblochon: (tr). New York. 56 Alamy Images: guichaoua (l). Colston Bassett Dairy Ltd: Noriko Aspinwall (New Zealand). De Kaaskammer. and the author would like to thank all those directly involved. Updated edition 2015: The publisher would like to thank Ligi John for editorial valbrembanaweb. Alex Havret. Iberica. Rippon Cheese Stores. Paris. 263 StockFood. Spain. Juliet Harbutt’s Acknowledgments Dries Debergh at Het Hinkelspel. Her passion and expertise was art direction in Paris. Liza Kaplan. StockFood. geogphotos Rory Goodman. S N McGillivray: (r). George Mewes Cheese Shop and www. Rebecca Warren. Richard Sutton. 130 Consorzio del Formaggio Parmigiano- Dorling Kindersley’s Acknowledgments Reggiano: (l) (tr). Oded Marom. 65 Fromagerie Berthaut: (tl) (tr). Rebecca In 1994. 6 Alamy Images: INTERFOTO. Sean McDevitt. (l). Photolibrary Wales (l). Pierre the Consorzio per la tutela del formaggio Gorgonzola: (bl) (tr). of the New York ofﬁce. Susan Varajanant for food styling in New York. British Cheese Festival and was made a fellow of the Royal Society for the Encouragement of Arts. 122 Consejo Regulador Queso Manchego: (br). Kelsie Parsons. freelance journalist. Netherlands: (tl) (tc) (tr). Diana Tietjens and Sarah Alamy Images: CuboImages srl (tc). Photoshot: UPPA (cla) (ca) (cb). Amy Sutton and Todd Webb for illustrations. 21 and Emily Lampson of the Kingham Plough. Fromagerie Berthaut: (l). François recognized with membership to the Guilde des Fromagers. 93 Fromagerie P Jacquin & Fils: (tl) (br) (cr) (tr).Renard Gillard . 57 Thierry Petit: (tl) (tr). Jenny Faithfull for picture research. Poncelet. researching. consultant. t-top) there to encourage.com: Michael Schinharl (tl) (br) (tr). 155 Photolibrary: age fotostock / Lluis Real (tr). 83 Roquefort Société: (tl) (tr). Valio. Pamela Shiels for design assistance. Patrick Rance. Claire Cross and Shalini Krishan for proofreading. r-right. b-below/bottom. particularly the contributors and the team at Dorling Kindersley Picture Credits in London. 258 Alamy Images: superclic (bl). of DK IPL. Adbdij van Postel. Organic Farm.com. Photononstop (tl). and cajole me when the task seemed insurmountable. Gillian Morgan. 82 Science inspirational cheese experts of the 20th and 21st century whose common traits Photo Library: Dr Jeremy Burgess (bc). Swara Trading International Ltd. Tips Italia / 352 Mauro Fermariello (tl). and the Confrerie des Chevaliers du Taste-Fromage de France. James Aldridge. Cropwell Bishop Creamery Ltd: (clb). and Cath (l) (r). Italy. Val Bines. The most inﬂuential and Baussais (cr). Neal’s Yard Dairy. jack sparticus (cb). 211 S N McGillivray: (tl) (tc) (tr). Suresh Kumar for cartography. 242 Alamy Images: E J Baumeister Jr (l). Terri Moore. 181 The Cheddar Gorge Cheese Company: (tc). Rita Costa and Cynthia Gilbert. Photolibrary: Fresh Food assistance. 120 Alamy Images: CuboImages srl (tc). (tr). 262 Corbis: Paul First edition 2009: Will Heap. Consorzio per la tutela del formaggio Gorgonzola: (tc) (tr). Tarda Davison-Aitkins for editorial dkimages. Kowalsky (l). Sue Cloke at Now a writer. Rick on TV and Radio from BBC Radio 4 Food Programme to The Hairy Bikers and Stein’s Delicatessen. Siobhan O’Connor. 243 Syndicat de l’Emmental Grand Cru . 287 Frankeny Images: (tl) (tc) Harries for photography. Writing. Sills at KäseSwiss. 46 Alamy Images: 19th era (tl). 232 Alamy Images: Peter Horree and Yuanchang Wang for photographing Rubing cheese. c-center. 74 Alamy Images: Art from working in the industry for nearly 30 years as a retailer. 64 Alamy Images: Per Karlsson. 15 Consultancy. http://biology. Marie Lorimer Images / Jason Lowe (tr). Harrods. Sara Essex. 192 Alamy Images: Elmtree Images (l). Jon and Lisa Goodchild from the Cotswold Cheese Company. Cynthia Jennings at Pant Her latest project has been to establish a Cheese “School” and she is working Mawr Cheeses. 92 Fromagerie P Jacquin & Fils: (l). 154 Alamy Images: Bartomeu Amentual (br). 19 Alamy Images: researcher. The publisher would like to thank the following for their kind permission to reproduce their photographs: ACKNOWLEDGMENTS However. I would like to say a special thank-you to those people who were (Key: a-above. She founded the renowned Jeroboams Wine & Cheese Shop when she arrived Rupert Linton and Katie Jarvis for food research and writing.stiltoncheese. Photolibrary: Cephas Picture Library / Neil Phillips (tr). and publishing a book like this could not be Murray’s Cheese. 47 Fromageries de Blâmont . Confrerie de at Androuët’s. competition judge.www. Manufactures and Commerce in 2005 in recognition And the following for generously supplying cheese for photography: Rachael of her work for British producers. Edmondson (l).edu/fankhauser: (tc). 13 Syndicat du Crottin de Chavignol: (tc) (ca) (cla) (clb). Photolibrary: Tips Italia / Stefano Scata (tr). Mr. Photolibrary: DEA / G Sosio (br). 233 Marjan van Rijn. achieved without a team effort from all concerned and a genuine commitment Rainha Santa. Getty Images: for the index. Warmond. and Sachin Singh for illustrations. BKWine 2 The knowledge and inspiration however for a book like this has come not only (br). University of Cincinnati Clermont College. Danaya Bunnag. Charles Martell at Dymock for allowing us to photograph Saint-Uguzon. Sara Remington for pictures (tr). assistance. editing. All other images © Dorling Kindersley. Chimay Fromages. Christian’s Delicatessen.Les Courtenay: (tr). Kate Arding. Miles CuboImages srl (tc). Eurwen Richards. Helena Caldon. 39 Stéphane Godin: (tr) (cr). TipsImagesUK: (bl). Susan Bosanko for the index. 217 Caws Cenarth Cheese: (tl) (ca). For further information see: www. 180 Alamy Images: Adam Burton (l). Tam. 11 Alamy Images: CuboImages srl (ca) (clb). afﬁneur. Mossﬁeld on her own range of cheeses. Silke Croppe at Corleggy Cheese. Murrays Cheese Shop Maegawa (cla). 75 Alamy Images: sébastien and speaker but from meeting my cheese heroes. Monika Linton at Brindisa. Dominic at The Borough Cheese Company. Acknowledgments About the author Juliet Harbutt is one of the world’s most highly respected cheese experts. Bassett Dairy Ltd: Noriko Maegawa (tl) (cr) (tc) (tr). Michelle Baxter.com . Rick Stein’s travels the world educating and inspiring a new generation of cheese lovers. 121 Corbis: Cesare Abbate / epa (tr). and all the wonderful cheesemakers who (tl). Katie Jarvis. script writer and Fromagerie Gillot : (tc). StockFood. Jim Davis. Jane Ewart for in Britain from her native New Zealand. Photolibrary: Tips Italia / Mauro Fermariello have shared their cheeses and their dreams with me. FrieslandCampina Cheese & Butter.com: Picture Box / Ouddeken (br). 123 Consejo Regulador Queso Manchego: (tr). Mandy Earey. Fromageries de Blâmont . Juliet created the prestigious British Cheese Awards and the Great Amarnani. and lecturer.com: Martina Meuth Mariano Sanchez. 38 Alamy Images: John Eccles (l). Kathy Biss at West Highland Dairy. Luigi Guffanti. Jeroboam’s. Carole Faulkner.Renard Gillard . Kellys Organic. she regularly appears Cheese at Leadenhall. 193 Colston And the following for helping with the images in the book: Androuet London. Delicatessen. 138 Foto Galizzi . 210 Alamy Images: David Langan of Red Hawk cheese and St. 111 Photo courtesy of the Androuet. 139 Arrigoni Valtaleggio SpA: (tl) (cl). Stilton Cheese Makers’ Association - [New York] and Cowgirl Creamery (USA). Rory Stone (Scotland). Fromagerie La Station for pictures of Raclette de Compton au Poivre. 110 Photo courtesy of are a passion for cheese and a desire to share it.France: (tl) (tc) (tr). Manfred Mehlig (l). Stephen Goodenough. Fromagerie Réaux: (cla) (ca) (cb) (clb). Prof David B Fankhauser. Dawn Bates. the Stinking Bishop process. clc. Blaine Williams. 259 Christakis SA: Dimitrios Koukos: (tl) (tc). Grafton Village Cheese. trainer. feed. 286 Frankeny Images: Andrew Harris. Jeff Morgan food and drink (clb). Kaasafﬁneurs Michel Van Tricht & zoon. Eugene Burns. Sue Taylor and Winston from the Cotswold (cla).com: (ca). 216 Alamy Images: The Cheddar. l-left. Jose Luis Martin.uc.

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