The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here

THE BESTSKIN OF YOUR LIFE STARTS HERE BUSTING BEAUTY MYTHS SO YOU KNOW WHAT TO USE AND WHY PAULA BEGOUN BRYAN BARRON DESIREE STORDAHL Co-Authors: Bryan Barron and Desiree Stordahl Editor: John Hopper Research Assistants: Mercedes Santaella-Lam, Vanessa Lucas, and Nathan Rivas Art Direction, Cover Design and Typography: Erin Bloom and Andrew Eder Production Manager: Karen Link Copyright © 2016, Paula’s Choice, LLC All rights reserved. No part of this book may be used for any purpose other than personal use. In addition, any reproduction, modification, or transmis- sion in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photo- copying, recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, is strictly prohibited without prior written permission from Paula’s Choice, LLC, except for the inclusion of quotations in a review. PUBLISHER’S DISCLAIMER The intent of this book is to present the authors’ ideas and perceptions about the marketing, sale, and use of cosmetics, as well as to present consum- ers with information and advice regarding the purchase of makeup and skin- care products. The information and recommendations presented in this book strictly reflect the authors’ opinions, perceptions, and knowledge about the subject and products mentioned. It is everyone’s inalienable right to judge the products and information pre- sented here based on their own criteria and to disagree with the authors. More important, because everyone’s skin can, and probably will, react to external stimuli at some point in their lifetime, any product can potentially cause a negative reaction on skin, at one time or another. If you develop skin sensitiv- ity to a cosmetic, stop using it immediately and consult your physician. If you need medical advice about your skin, you should consult a dermatol- ogist or physician. The authors are not medical doctors or professional health- care providers and they do not provide medical advice or medical diagnoses. This book does not offer medical advice or attempt to diagnose or take care of any skin problem, disease, or skin concern or any other health or medical problem or concern. If you have a medical concern or problem with your skin, please make an appointment to see a dermatologist or physician in your area. Do not use or rely on the statements in this book for medical advice, to determine any medical condition, or as an alternative to medical advice from your doctor or other professional healthcare providers. Consult a doctor or other professional healthcare provider if you have any questions about any medical matter and seek immediate medical attention if you believe you or others may be suffering from any medical concern or disorder. Any information provided by the authors is, at best, of a general nature and cannot substitute for the advice of a medical professional, such as a quali- fied doctor/physician, dermatologist, nurse, or pharmacist. All products men- tioned in this book should be used as directed on the product container or on the website from where such products were purchased. Discontinue using any product that causes irritation (e.g., redness, itching, burning, scaling, soreness, or other symptoms). DO NOT DELAY SEEKING MEDICAL ADVICE, DISREGARD MEDICAL ADVICE, OR DISCONTINUE MEDICALLY PRESCRIBED PRODUCTS BE- CAUSE OF INFORMATION OR STATEMENTS PROVIDED IN THIS BOOK. TABLE OF CONTENTS 1. The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here and Now…..................................... 1 2. Skincare Facts Everyone Needs to Know...................................................15 3. What Every Skin Type Needs............................................................................25 4. Skin Type vs. Skin Concern................................................................................27 5. Which Skincare Products You Need and Which Ones You Don’t......33 6. How to Put Together the Perfect Skincare Routine...............................49 7. Sun Damage and Sunscreen Questions Answered................................57 8. Anti-Aging from the Outside In and Inside Out.......................................63 9. The Anti-Aging Diet...............................................................................................71 10. Managing Oily Skin................................................................................................73 11. Dry Skin.......................................................................................................................77 12. Balancing Combination Skin.............................................................................83 13. Avoid Acne and Breakouts (No Matter Your Age)..................................87 14. How to Fade Post-Acne Marks.........................................................................91 15. Uneven Skin Tone & Dark Spots.......................................................................93 PREFACE The One Constant Is Change One of the most incredible aspects of the cosmetics industry, especially surrounding skincare products, is how rapidly the technology and our under- standing of the physiology and biology of skin has changed and evolved. Over the past 30 years, I have been amazed by the research and serious investiga- tions into how skin functions that have shed new light on the best possible ways to take care of skin. I have watched with awe and respect as new ingredi- ents, new combinations of ingredients, and the promising hopes of new scien- tific discoveries have transformed what cosmetics products can do. My team continually seeks new data and studies on skin and skincare, and we use those findings to update our Expert Advice articles and the Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary on PaulasChoice.com. I emphasize our steadfast use of research-based information because I know how easy it is to be lured in by a new so-called miracle product or by an ingredient that the cosmetics industry is serving up as the next best thing. Unfortunately, succumbing to such seduc- tions can be detrimental for your skin. We’ve seen fad ingredients come and go, some linger longer than others and some just won’t go away despite their negative effects on skin. Cutting through the hype to find out exactly what the scientific and pro- fessional communities and their substantiated studies have to say about skin and skincare can play a major role in getting you the best skin of your life. I’ve been providing this kind of information for 30 years, and my team and I are devoted to continuing that mission. We are committed to helping you have the best skin of your life—now and in the future—and we are here to help you every step along the way! C HAPTE R 1 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here and Now… The title of this book and the name of this chapter make bold statements, yet I make them with the utmost confidence. That’s because the information you’ll find on every page is based on what current research shows can help you solve your skin concerns by using a step-by-step cohesive skincare system you can understand and put into action. If you do this, I just know that you can have and maintain the beautiful skin you’ve always wanted! All the details, recommendations, and encouragement I present throughout this book are what you need to get yourself on the fast track to finding the best products and best answers for your skin. FROM PAULA This book was compiled by a talented team of experts; I just happen to be one with who has been in the world of cosmetics the longest and have been writing books about beauty since 1985. If you’re not familiar with my work, I’ve been studying, reviewing, and researching scientific and medical journals about skincare for over three decades. I have a background in science from my university studies, and I was a lifestyle reporter in Seattle for four years. Starting in 1985—and now with this Special Digital Edition book—I’ve written 21 books on beauty, skincare, makeup, and haircare (the first entitled Blue Eye- shadow Should Be Illegal), several of them well over 1,000 pages, with millions of copies sold around the world. I am also founder of Paula’s Choice Skincare, which I launched in 1995, a collection of products I formulated with options for practically every skin type and skin concern. Of course, I love my products and, of course, it’s my preference for you to consider them when choosing products for taking the best care of your skin. But, I also know that there are many beneficial products 2 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here from other lines that you can choose, I want to be sure you understand how to take the best care of your skin, no matter whose products you use. It has always been my mission to help you get the best skin of your life and to know what you should and should not do, AND to find the products that are ideal for your skin type and your skin concerns, whether they are my prod- ucts or someone else’s. PAULA’S JOURNEY I’ve had a love-hate relationship with the cosmetics industry from the very beginning. It started with an intense curiosity and passion for skincare and makeup when I was a teenager. My passion wasn’t because I was fixated on buying cosmetics for fun; rather, it was about trying to take care of my prob- lem skin that progressively got worse and worse no matter what I used or what expert I consulted. It was an emotional ordeal for me and, to this day, it is still painful for me to remember the stress and embarrassment of dealing with the unsightly skin problems I suffered through as a teen. At the age of 11, it started with terrible acne and super-oily skin along with debilitating eczema over 60% of my body (in school I had to wear gloves to hold a pencil because my hands were so raw and sore from my incessant scratching of the eczema-caused itching). All I wanted at the time were effective products that would do as they claimed. This didn’t seem like too much to ask, right? Given how many times I was told month after month, year after year, how different products would end my struggle, surely something would work. However, over the next 20 years, no matter where I turned, whether to cosmetics counters, drugstores, spas, or even doctors’ offices, almost every product I tried led to disappoint- ment. Despite the promises and claims, my skin rarely showed any signs of improvement, and it gradually just got worse! I felt helpless! I was in a frus- trating cycle of trying to find products that worked—every time it led to dis- appointment, and continued suffering. Yet, like most women, that didn’t stop me from trying again and again. Finally, in my twenties, I came to the realization that most skincare claims were either seriously misleading, just plain wrong, or, at best, delusional. I was determined to find out the truth about skin and skincare—it became a com- pulsion, eventually leading me to take my first steps into a career in the world of cosmetics. It was by no means a straight path, and I had no idea that it would lead me to where I am today; I only knew I was on a personal pursuit, which eventually became a global mission, and I have never wavered from that mission through- The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here and Now… 3 out all the years I’ve been doing this. I didn’t want anyone to go through what I went through ever again. In looking over my evolving career, I believe I’ve accomplished much of what I set out to do. But I’m not quitting! There’s still a lot of work and research yet to be done. PAULA’S LIFE-CHANGING MOMENT! I started my cosmetics career back in 1977. During my early years working as a makeup artist, as well as selling skincare and makeup products, I didn’t know many of the technical details of why so many skincare and makeup products failed abysmally to live up to their claims; I just knew they didn’t work as advertised. More often than not, the claims made for the products and what they were supposed to do rarely matched their performance, or even came close, but at the time I had no way to confirm my suspicions; there was no Internet as we know it today and no one had personal computers. It was about that time one of the most historic advancements in the world of cosmetics was taking place. In 1977, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) finalized the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act, a piece of cosmetic reg- ulation that was about to change the face of beauty forever, and my future as well. What took place—after many years of legal wrangling and deliberation— was the mandatory requirement for all cosmetics to include a complete list of ingredients printed on the product’s packaging, in descending order of con- tent; that is, the ingredients first on the list were there in the largest amounts and the ingredients at the end of the list were present in the tiniest amounts. It’s difficult to imagine now how significant and radical an event that was. The United States passed this regulation in 1977; the next country to mandate cosmetic ingredient labeling (Australia) didn’t enact it until 1995! Other coun- tries didn’t follow suit until 2000 through 2009. Needless to say, I was very pleased to finally know what was in a cosmetic, but, at the same time, it was a disappointment because so many of the ingre- dient names were indecipherable (and many still are to this day). Here was this amazing information on the label, but I had no idea what I was reading and, on top of that, there were (and are) thousands of different ingredients that a cosmetics chemist could use to make a product. It made my head spin, but it also began my research to learn what it all meant, and then to write my books, and, eventually, to create Paula’s Choice Skincare. JUST KNOWING INGREDIENTS ISN’T ENOUGH As fascinating as it was to finally know what ingredients products actual- ly contained, and whether or not those ingredients were actually effective or 4 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here beneficial, or even problematic, it wasn’t enough. In other words, although I now knew the function of an ingredient in a formula, there were still funda- mental and complicated questions remaining. I still needed to know which ingredients, in what amounts, and in what types of products would work best for which skin type and which skin concerns, from bumpy skin to signs of aging, dry skin, redness, oily skin, combination skin, environmental damage, sun protection to reduce the risk of early signs of aging (and skin cancer) from sun damage, loss of firmness, clogged pores, and on and on. It was even more complex to understand what should be done if someone had multiple problems, like oily skin and signs of aging with occasional bumps or enlarged pores, or dry skin with redness and environmental damage? Many people, including me, deal with frustrating combinations like this, and it can be incredibly confusing to know how to take care of seemingly contradictory skin concerns. The most basic question is: What kinds of products can be combined into a cohesive routine that takes into account everything someone needs and ex- cludes what is absolutely not needed—to have beautiful, healthy skin? ANCIENT WISDOM WAS NOT VERY WISE …At least not when it came to skincare! On completing each book, I would think I had finally said it all, and that now people could find their way to hav- ing the best skin possible, so I would never have to write another beauty book and get on with my life. Obviously, that wasn’t the case, as I went on to write many more books and articles. I would have loved it if my first book could have covered everything, but as countless new studies were conducted and scientific discoveries were published, knowledge about skincare progressed and changed, and so did our conclusions and recommendations about what would and wouldn’t work for skin. As the research evolved, so did the work, as we needed to incorporate what the most current research demonstrated to be true for skin. Each new book reflected the most recent significant and meaningful information so you could stay informed and be able to take the best care of your skin. And, as with every book before it, beautiful skin is what this book and Paula’s Choice Skincare is all about! Many people ask us: Why does skincare have to be so complicated? Believe me, I wish it weren’t, but it is. People sometimes tell me, “Well, my grand- mother just used bar soap and she looked great!” I have no doubt grandma was a beautiful woman, but I would no sooner expect you to use a typewriter rath- er than your computer or a rotary dial phone rather than your smart phone The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here and Now… 5 just because those devices worked well for your grandmother. Like laptops and smart phones, advances in skincare reflect the same concept in terms of the innovative and cutting-edge technology used to develop today’s best prod- ucts to take the best care of your skin. Taking care of your skin in some ways is as complicated as rocket science because skin is so multifaceted and complex but the goal of this book is to bring it down to earth for you so you can make the best decisions for your skin. Summing it up: Don’t cheat your skin by accepting myths about skincare as facts. Even as little as 20 years ago, there was little to no information about the need for broad-spectrum sun protection, antioxidants, skin-replenishing ingredients, skin-restoring ingredients, skin issues involving environmental assault, and on and on. REGRETTABLY THERE ARE NO MIRACLES Despite all the research and new skincare technology, it’s important to re- member that there are no miraculous ingredients when it comes to skincare. This is one of the more difficult facts for people to accept because cosmetics companies endlessly parade new ingredients with elaborate and enticing— and fabricated—stories about their wondrous effects on skin. It is not easy to ignore the barrage of inducements, from argan oil, to mel- on from France, yeast from monasteries in Japan, sea kelp developed by an aeronautics scientist, snake venom, rare earth minerals, or some unknown plant from some exotic region of the world. (Of course, it would never be a plant from your neighborhood, as that just wouldn’t make as good a story.) Please try to resist being seduced by yet another plant extract, exotic plant oil, or some manufactured ingredient because, without exception, this belief will be a disaster for your skin. It’s not that new ingredients are not fascinating and potentially very beneficial for skin, but skin is too complicated for any sin- gle ingredient to be enough. If anything, just the opposite is true: Skin needs a vast array of substances to be healthy, renewed, replenished, hydrated, and to feel and look firmer and smoother. THE GENESIS OF PAULA’S CHOICE SKINCARE Paula’s Choice Skincare was launched in 1995 and I am very proud of the more than 100 products my team and I have created. That was almost 10 years to the day after I published my first book in 1985. What a remarkable journey it has been and continues to be! Creating my own line of skincare products was controversial given that I had been such a strong and vocal critic of the cosmetics industry. Wasn’t I 6 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here sleeping with the enemy and going over to the dark side? How could I ever be impartial again? Those are good questions, but the answer is that anyone who is familiar with my work over the years knows that I haven’t compromised my principles or values for one moment. Paula’s Choice Skincare is still the only cosmetics company in the world that recommends products from other lines and that also tells you what limitations exist in the world of skincare. My reason for starting Paula’s Choice Skincare was in large part due to pressure from my friends, family, and readers of my books. They kept ask- ing me to make my own products that didn’t have all the “buts” and warn- ings of the other products I reviewed. They would say, “You always write ‘this product is good, but it’s too expensive for what you get, …but it has too much fragrance, …but it comes in unstable packaging, …but there are better prod- ucts out there.’” They’d practically yell at me, exclaiming: “Just make your own products so we know what to use, because otherwise it’s overwhelming, too much to read, and there’s no way to really know what’s best!” I understood precisely what they were talking about, and that’s when my mission in life changed and expanded. So, in 1993, I decided I could indeed make state-of-the-art products that left out all the “buts” and that were loaded with ingredients research showed were beneficial for skin. The idea for Paula’s Choice Skincare was born; the first eight products began arriving two years later! As you can tell, my enthusiasm for writing my books and information on my website didn’t go away! I couldn’t give up what I had been doing for the previous 10 years of my life. Skincare information is not only my mission and heritage; it is also my legacy. And, as it turned out, my books and formulating products for Paula’s Choice Skincare enhanced each other in tangible mean- ingful ways. SKIN FRUSTRATIONS ARE UNIVERSAL My work has taken me to over 25 countries, giving me the opportunity to give hundreds of media interviews and to hold speaking engagements in plac- es such as Jakarta, Indonesia; Seoul, South Korea; Stockholm, Sweden; Mexi- co City, Mexico; Singapore; Sydney and Melbourne, Australia; Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia; Amsterdam, The Netherlands; Moscow, Russia; Taipei, Taiwan; To- ronto, Canada; and, of course, almost every major city in the United States. What I’ve learned is that the business of beauty is universally crazy. There’s no place in the world where people aren’t frustrated about how to take the best care of their skin. No matter where I’ve been in the world, people are equally concerned about looking younger and having picture-perfect skin. The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here and Now… 7 As a result, I am asked the same questions wherever I go and I rarely have to change my responses! People want to know why a product they bought didn’t work. Why didn’t their deep wrinkles go away? Why didn’t their skin flaws change? Why wasn’t their skin tone improved? Why didn’t their environmental assault change? Why are they still getting bumps or clogged pores or just starting to have those problems? Why do they still have dry, flaky skin after buying so many products promising to make things better? Why is their skin so red and temperamental? What are the best anti-aging ingredients? What are the best eye creams that really do get rid of dark circles? Do I know about a recently launched product with a supposed miracle ingredient and does it work? What about ingredients from Morocco, the Amazon, India, China, or some other far-flung place? During my presentations, I’ve come to expect a look of understanding to gradually wash over the audience members’ faces as they begin to grasp how myths have taken over the facts about what is best for skin. What people everywhere want is to take the best care of their skin, look younger, and have an even skin tone, with no enlarged pores, bumps, dry skin, and on and on. In each country I visit, without fail, beauty ideals revolve en- tirely around youth and flawless skin, and how to get there and maintain it. That last point—how to get there—is inevitably accompanied by shared con- fusion, worldwide. My team and I want to clear up that confusion for you here and now! We don’t want you to take our word for it. We want you to know the facts! AGE, SKIN COLOR, AND RACE ARE NOT SKIN TYPES! There are several aspects to understanding your skin type, but first you must understand that your age, skin color, and race are not nearly as import- ant or as relevant as knowing your skin type. I know that may be hard to be- lieve, especially considering how often you’ve read statements to the contrary, but it’s 100% true. It isn’t that older skin isn’t different from younger skin or that darker skin color isn’t different from lighter skin color, it’s just that when it comes to how you take care of your skin and what you should and shouldn’t do, the research shows with very little exceptions those factors don’t matter. What does matter are the skin concerns you’re dealing with and your skin type. You can be 60 and have oily skin with bumps and environmental dam- age, but someone can have the exact same issues at age 30. You can have a dark skin color and what you need to do take care of your dry skin and wrinkles is the same as for someone with a lighter skin color. 8 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here The types of ingredients and products that deal with dry skin, oily skin, signs of aging, congested pores, uneven skin tone, marks from bumps, tem- peramental skin, environmental assault (everyone has environmental dam- age), combination skin, and on and on are essentially the SAME for everyone. Think about it like a diet. What’s healthy or unhealthy to eat is general- ly the same for everyone (save for individuals with specific allergies). Adding more green, vegetables, whole grains, and fish rich in omega fatty acids to your diet is healthy, while eating processed foods, deep-fried foods, and sugars are not, no matter who you are and regardless of your age, race or where you live. WHAT ARE THE BEST INGREDIENTS? Aside from the fact that there are literally thousands of different ingredi- ents that can be included in a skincare product, there’s no all-inclusive way to sum up which are the best. Actually, even to suggest there’s any one ingredient that will solve your skincare woes is just plain silly. I wish skincare were as easy as finding the consummate skincare ingredient that can do it all, but it’s not… not even close. Skin, the largest organ of the body, includes a vast range of substances and a beyond-imaginable number of physiological processes and interactions that keep it young, radiant, smooth, healthy, bump free, and even-toned. As you might suspect, countless things can go wrong when these systems become damaged or start slowing down due to age. When skin’s natural systems of antioxidants, skin-replenishing, and skin-restoring ingredients are abundant and working correctly, your skin has a far better chance of looking younger, smoother, and radiant longer. But when you don’t protect your skin from sun damage with sunscreen (SPF 30 or greater), get older, have midlife changes, experience health issues, smoke, and are exposed to environmental assault the protective substances in your skin break down, become depleted, and aren’t naturally replaced as they once were. The only way to help skin regain those vital substances is to provide it with the ingredients it desperately needs to replenish itself and meaningfully lessen further problems. That process of rejuvenation and revitalization can never be solved with any one ingredient or any one product. The good news is that there are hundreds of great good-for-your-skin in- gredients and products. But whenever you read that a specific vitamin, plant oil, or plant extract is the “best” ingredient for skin, or one product can do it all, ignore it. Once again, I want you to think about it like your diet, green tea may be healthy for you to drink, but if you only drank green tea you would rather quickly be risking your life. Think of your skin the same way; it needs a The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here and Now… 9 range of substances naturally found in skin to keep “feeding it” day in and day out to be as healthy as possible. WHAT ABOUT NATURAL INGREDIENTS? “Natural” or “naturally derived” and “organic” ingredients are a polarizing topic. Some people devoutly believe that using skincare products containing only natural or organic ingredients is the only way to take the best care of their skin. It just isn’t true. The fact is there are lots of natural ingredients that are bad for skin and they show up in skincare products all the time. Natural does not necessarily mean better; after all, cyanide, arsenic, and poison ivy are all perfectly natural substances, and those should not be on your skin! More to the point, there has been no standard set for what constitutes a natural ingredient in a cosmetic. A plant still has to come out of the ground, be processed, cleaned, debugged, preserved, and then mixed into a formula and preserved once again. Whether or not that still makes the product natural is anyone’s guess. The question I always ask when evaluating any ingredient is: What poten- tial benefit does it have for skin and what is its potential to cause a problem? Is it a non-irritating ingredient or just the opposite? If it has the potential to cause a problem for skin, how strong is that potential, and is there an alterna- tive ingredient that provides the same benefit without such concerns? You will be shocked to learn how many natural ingredients can be a prob- lem for skin, and actually harm skin. Let me repeat: Not all natural skincare ingredients are beneficial and not all synthetic ingredients are bad. Many companies that tout their natural ingredients are the best for skin and that synthetic ingredients are killing your skin are not telling the truth. Synthetic ingredients are not inherently bad for skin, in fact, many synthetic ingredients are actually brilliant for skin. In short, there are good and bad natural and naturally-derived ingredients and there are good and bad synthetic ingredients. That’s why we continual- ly pore over the research literature, so we can relay to you the information you need to ensure you are using only products that contain what’s proven to help skin and are avoiding those products loaded with ingredients that are over-glorified and that can’t perform as you’ve been told. DON’T TRY THIS ON YOURSELF I’m often asked why someone shouldn’t just try a product to see if they like it or just rely on someone else’s experience with a product to decide if it might work for their needs. I can’t think of a bigger mistake for your skin than to rely 10 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here solely on personal assessment, whether yours or someone else’s, to determine the benefit and/or quality of a product. We are not saying that you shouldn’t use a product you like, but you should make your selection only from the best-formulated products, those that are right for your skin type and that have the best ingredients research has shown to provide incredible results. How a product feels on your skin or someone else’s skin doesn’t give you the crucial information you need about the quality of any formula. So, what’s wrong with applying a product to see if it works? It’s a very very bad idea because just applying a skincare product, even for a relatively long period, doesn’t mean that you’ll be able to tell if it’s helping or hurting your skin. This is true for many reasons. First, there is an incredible risk to skin from using (or even “just trying”) a badly formulated product. Just because someone likes the way a product feels on their skin doesn’t mean it’s a good product, for them or for you. They may like the texture or the look of the product, but that doesn’t tell you anything about whether it is beneficial for skin or harmful for skin. What it comes down to is that when it comes to skincare it’s just like your diet, people often “like” what isn’t good for them, whether in the short term or, even more important, over the long term. As for skincare, it is difficult, if not impossible, to tell whether a product is good or bad just from applying it (you certainly can’t tell that chocolate cake is a problem and that kale is good for you). For skincare the product may be packaged in a jar, which weakens the ben- eficial ingredients; it may contain problematic ingredients and cause negative results when used over the long term; it may contain nothing useful at all for replenishing or renewing skin; or it may be a daytime moisturizer that doesn’t contain sunscreen, which won’t help reduce the risk of early signs of aging or the risk of skin cancer the truly serious results of sun damage. Think about it this way: Just because someone swears by smoking for keep- ing their weight down doesn’t make smoking good for you. Just because some- one likes tanning and thinks they are making lots of vitamin D for their skin doesn’t make it true or good for you. Just because eating and not exercising feels better than exercising doesn’t mean that’s a good thing for you to do. I could go on and on, but you get the point. It’s important to realize that skincare products can have positive or nega- tive results and that those results can take years to show up. The benefit of a healthy diet doesn’t show up immediately; the same is true for a terrible diet, where it can be years before you see the resulting negative effects. The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here and Now… 11 This also holds true for badly formulated skincare products: The harm can be ongoing and you won’t know because the damage is taking place beyond what your eyes can see. It can take years before you see the damage on the surface of skin. I don’t want any of us to wait years only to find out that what we were using on our skin all along was detrimental. It also isn’t necessary to test drive a product to know its strengths or weaknesses because first you can’t tell, especially in the short term but mostly because the research on most ingredients has already been carried out so you can choose the formulas that only contain the good stuff and none of the bad just as is true for food or medicine. You don’t need to eat processed foods to know how unhealthy they are for you or to smoke cigarettes to find out years later that that was a bad choice. A vast amount of research has already been done to determine what those results will be; the same is true for skincare ingredients. How skincare ingredients are combined and how they work in products is well known from the ongoing research in the cosmetic, medical, and biological sciences. There’s also extensive, documented medical and scientific research about how different ingredients affect skin. The information we present about ingredients is based on that research, which is why our recommendations can really help you find products that work for your skin type and your skin con- cerns and that you will enjoy using—because they really work! CAN YOU READ AN INGREDIENT LABEL? I wish I could teach everyone how to read an ingredient label because therein lies the basic, but fundamental, information for determining the ef- fectiveness and functionality of almost any skincare product. The ingredient list is the key to understanding whether or not a product’s claims make any sense and whether it’s problematic or beneficial for your skin. But, decipher- ing the ingredient list is not easy, especially if you don’t have a background in cosmetic science or cosmetic formulation. First and foremost is the sheer number of ingredients available for cosmet- ic formulations. There are literally thousands of ingredients and thousands upon thousands of potential combinations of those ingredients. The current International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) comprises four huge printed volumes, and an online subscription costs thousands of dollars. Even more confounding are the chemical names of the ingredients, at times far too technical for most to understand. How can the average con- sumer ever hope to comprehend what polymethylsilsesquioxane, palmitoyl hexapeptide-12, or cetyl ricinoleate are, let alone understand what they do? 12 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here Even plant extracts have names that are incomprehensible such as Gaultheria procumbens or Simmondsia chinensis. Vitamin C is one of many great ingredients for skin, but even that has over a dozen different forms with overly technical names on an ingredient label, and each has its own benefit and usefulness in a formulation. In addition to the difficulty of untangling an ingredient label and all the claims espousing an ingredient’s or product’s benefits, there are also all the horror stories about ingredients that you find on the Internet and in other sources. Almost without exception, the fear-mongering you’ve read about such ingredients as parabens, silicones, mineral oil, sulfates, and so on is just plain wrong. Sometimes the statements made about these types of ingredients (and many, many others) are taken out of context from the research, leading to irrelevant and silly conclusions. Sometimes the statements are made up out of thin air, derived or extrapolated from unrelated sources, and/or have no scientific basis (we can’t tell you how often this happens). Any ingredient can be made to sound scary by manipulating the facts. For example, water’s chemical name is Dihydrogen monoxide, which has been confused repeatedly with the dangerous carbon monoxide because the two have similar-sounding names. Plus, as innocuous as water seems, drinking too much within a short period of time can cause serious health problems, and we all know that you can drown if you’re submerged in water for too long. We can’t tell you how many times we’ve heard various advocate groups suggest that if you can’t pronounce an ingredient name, it must be dangerous. The absurdity of that is overwhelming to us. No one can pronounce a plant’s real botanical name such as Symplocarpus foetidus (cabbage) or Rubus pensil- vanicus (blackberry) but that doesn’t make it automatically safe or unsafe. To demonstrate how this fear-mongering works, I’ll use mineral oil as an example. There are those who want to scare you into believing that mineral oil is bad for you, while the research reveals just the opposite. Not only is cos- metic grade mineral oil natural (it comes from the earth), but the research also makes it crystal clear that it’s one of the gentlest and safest skin care ingredi- ents out there, especially for very dry skin and other serious skin damage. But because it is associated with gasoline it has been labeled falsely as the source of all evil for skin. Other examples of ingredients that have been subject to fear-mongering include silicones, which are a brilliant group of ingredients that have been used in hospital intensive care units around the world for decades; sulfates, The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here and Now… 13 which are not problematic and do not cause disease; and parabens, which are some of the safest, most non-irritating preservatives ever used in cosmetics. Authentic scientific and balanced information is out there, but it has been a lifelong pursuit for me, and now my team, to filter through the research, not something a consumer can easily pick up or find the time to figure out; even people within the cosmetics industry have difficulty in this area, and so fall prey to misleading or completely false information. One other point, perhaps the most significant, is that even if you could read and understand an ingredient label, how would you know which ingre- dients are best for your specific skincare concerns, from acne to wrinkles and everything in between. That’s where my team and I come in, and this book can be your guide. CHAPTE R 2 Skincare Facts Everyone Needs to Know WHY YOU MIGHT NOT HAVE YOUR BEST SKIN YET There are many reasons why you may not have the skin you want: sun damage from not wearing sunscreen daily, your own biology, aging, midlife changes, health issues, environmental assault, using skincare products that don’t contain non-irritating ingredients or beneficial ingredients, and on and on. To one degree or another, all of these factors play a part in the complex and continual process of deterioration that occurs both inside and outside the body. Over time, your personal biology, the environment, and skin care neglect slowly weakens skin, decreases skin’s ability to keep itself young, healthy, even- toned, and feeling firmer, to have fewer congested pores, to be bump-free, to be hydrated, to feel and look smooth, and to be less oily. Although all the factors mentioned above play havoc with your body and skin due to the problems they trigger, what you put on your skin can have the same effect, and often plays a significant role in what is going wrong. Skincare products that aren’t gentle weaken skin and inhibit healthy normal-appearing skin. Understanding what your skin needs for your skin type and your skin con- cerns is vital, but it’s equally important to know what your skin doesn’t need. That’s critical because the very skincare products you are using may, in fact, be exacerbating the problems you’re trying to fix. Even after many years of looking at skincare formulations, it still shocks us that many of the products people buy to take care of a specific skin con- cern actually make it worse. For example, products you’ve purchased claiming to control oily skin often contain ingredients that make skin oilier. Products claiming to be oil-free often contain ingredients that nonetheless make skin 16 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here feel greasy. Products claiming they won’t cause bumps may contain pore-clog- ging, emollient ingredients that don’t sound like they would be a problem be- cause we don’t recognize the names on the ingredient label. Products claiming to be skin renewing contain ingredients that deplete skin. And there’s always the issue of daytime moisturizers not containing sunscreen. NOT BEING GENTLE IS YOUR SKIN’S WORST ENEMY I cannot stress this enough: Not being gentle is really, really bad for skin! In addition to the huge daily assault our skin suffers from not wearing a product with an SPF 30 or greater, it is also detrimental to assault skin by splashing it with hot water and applying skincare products that contain skin-aggravating ingredients or have a harsh texture. Those are serious problems and will not help you achieve the best skin of your life. These types of attacks hinder skin’s ability to stay hydrated, help skin replenish itself, keep the skin’s surface intact, among many other complications. For those with oily skin, it’s especially important to know that not being gentle can trigger an increase in oil coming from the pores and make the pores bigger! That is not good for any skin type! It turns out that much of what we know about skin aging, the appearance of wrinkles, uneven skin tone, skin renewing, and bumps has evolved from our increased understanding of what results when you don’t use gentle skin- care products, don’t use a sunscreen, endure the constant impact of pollution on skin without protecting it with effective skin care formulations, and either smoking cigarettes or being around those who do. All these activities trigger a negative response in skin that leads to cumulative negative results. SKIN’S SILENT KILLER It would probably be easier for those who smoke cigarettes to stop smoking if the damage it was causing on the inside showed itself instantly on the out- side. Regrettably, that isn’t the case; as we now know, it can take years for the cumulative damage to show up. Interestingly, the same can be said for what happens to skin when you do things that have a negative impact. People often assume their skincare products aren’t hurting or aggravating their skin because they don’t feel or see any negative reactions. Unfortunately, although we may not see or feel anything, there are serious negative processes taking place beyond where we can see. When the skin’s surface hides the im- pact of harsh or aggravating skincare products the problems may take a while to show up on the on the surface but they will eventually and you won’t think it’s very pretty. Skincare Facts Everyone Needs to Know 17 You can get a clearer idea of how using products that aren’t gentle is caus- ing this hidden, secret damage to skin by understanding what we know about how skin reacts to unprotected sun exposure; that is, when you aren’t seeking shade and are not wearing a sunscreen with SPF 30 or greater. The sun is a major cause of early signs of skin aging and skin cancer. Yet, other than the (hopefully) rare occasion when you get sunburned, you don’t feel or even see the damage being done to your skin from not wearing a sun- screen rain or shine, until years later. Even more shocking is that the most damaging rays of the sun can come through windows, and it’s for certain you never feel that—now that really is a silent killer! FRAGRANCE: SMELLS LIKE TROUBLE FOR YOUR SKIN We are all attracted to a pleasing fragrance. In fact, the first thing most people do when considering just about any skincare or haircare product is smell it. As nice as it is to have a product with a wonderful aroma, it doesn’t make sense for good skincare. Whether the fragrance in the product is from a plant or a synthetic source, with very few exceptions, what pleases your nose is a problem for your skin. The way most fragrance ingredients impart scent is through a volatile re- action, which on your skin is anything but gentle, and which can cause a neg- ative reaction that you rarely see on the surface. Research has established that fragrant ingredients in skincare products are among the most common cause of negative skin reactions. Fragrance-free is always the best way to go for all skin types. Unfortunately, your nose cannot determine from the smell of a product whether or not it contains problematic fragrant ingredients or non-irritating ingredients that happen to have an aroma. Many beneficial skincare ingredi- ents that are completely gentle have a natural pleasant aroma and do great things for skin. Distinguishing between the ingredients that actually do won- derful things for skin and the ingredients that are added to make you “shop with your nose” and cause problems is not easy. Like anything in skincare, the basic information is on the ingredient label, but because those ingredients read like an advanced college chemistry course, they are often difficult to decipher, especially considering that the skin-aggra- vating fragrant plant oils or extracts are listed only by their Latin names rather than by the more obvious terms “fragrance” or “parfum.” 18 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here EVERYONE HAS SENSITIVE SKIN Most of us, to one degree or another, have temperamental skin; that is, our skin reacts negatively to the environment and can react negatively to what we put on it. Regardless of your skin type or concerns, lots of things upset our skin; some of which we can avoid and some we can’t. However, we can diminish much of the potential harm by using great skincare products that are loaded with beneficial ingredients and are gentle and soothing to skin and by being sun smart as we will explain throughout this book. The sun weakens skin in so many ways it’s devastating for us to contemplate. No matter how you think your skin reacts to different aspects of the envi- ronment and to the products you use, we are all vulnerable to what happens from using skincare products that aren’t gentle and are not protecting our skin from the sun. As mentioned above, whether you know it or not, you have sensitive skin because your skin reacts negatively to many different things, and you can’t always tell what is taking place below the surface. To take the best possible care of your skin, it’s essential you take the same precautions that someone with more obviously sensitive skin takes: Regard- less of your skin type, being as kind to your skin as possible along with using outstanding effective and gentle skincare products is nothing less than bril- liant. Whether you think of your facial skin as normal, oily, dry, acne-prone, or anything else, you still need to be gentle and avoid as much as possible things that aggravate your skin, contain fragrance, or have abrasive textures like scrubs. Taking care of your skin gently is a key step to getting and keeping the skin you want! DOES SKIN COLOR OR ETHNIC BACKGROUND AFFECT WHAT SKINCARE PRODUCTS YOU USE? It might surprise you to learn that whether your heritage is European, Asian, or anywhere else in the world, you do not require special skincare prod- ucts based on your skin’s color or your ethnic background. Why not? Because skin color is not a skin type! None of the research on the differences between ethnicities indicates that skin color has anything to do with the skincare prod- ucts you need. Darker skin tones do have some physiological differences from lighter skin tones, but those differences don’t affect what products you should be using. Think of it like your diet: Regardless of our ethnic background or skin color, we all still need the same nutritious foods to be healthy. Skincare Facts Everyone Needs to Know 19 The exact same concept applies to skin. Skin is the body’s largest organ, and everyone’s skin needs the same ingredients to address dry skin, acne, wrinkles, sun protection, uneven skin tone, oily skin, redness, sensitive skin, and so on. All of these problems affect every color of skin and the skincare ingredients that resolve these issues don’t change because of skin color. Everyone’s skin also needs the same basic care—gentle cleansing, sun pro- tection, and state-of-the-art products for their specific skin type. Having dark- er skin does not stop unprotected sun exposure from damaging skin. It is also important to avoid problematic ingredients, such as alcohol, men- thol, peppermint, eucalyptus, lemon, lime, and natural or synthetic fragranc- es, because exposure to harsh ingredients will worsen any concern on any color of skin. Some of you may have read that Asian skin is more sensitive and, therefore, that it is critical that Asians use non-irritating skincare products. Even if Asian skin were more sensitive, it doesn’t mean that those with non-Asian skin, any- where in the world, should use products with potentially sensitizing or harsh ingredients. Everyone, everywhere, should be gentle to their skin because us- ing skin-aggravating products is detrimental, no matter who or where you are. Whether you have normal, oily, combination, or dry skin or your skin con- cerns include sun damage from not using an SPF product daily, the appearance of wrinkles, large pores, breakouts, uneven skin tone, redness, loss of firmness, and on and on, there’s no research showing that different skincare formulas are needed based on your race or heritage. Around the world, ingredients that benefit skin and ingredients that are a problem for skin are the same. Simply put, as far as biology and physiology are concerned, regardless of your ethnic, racial, or cultural background, you do NOT need special skincare products. Let go of this idea—in most cases, it won’t help (and could actually hurt) your skin. LIFE-LONG RULES FOR SKINCARE SUCCESS One of the most important ways to achieve the best skin of your life is to follow the fundamental rules of great skincare. Be consistent. For best results, a great skincare routine should be used reg- ularly. Some products you may use once or twice daily, others every other day, or once a week, but consistency is the key. Apply products in the right order. This is more important than people think. For example, sunscreen should be the last skincare product you apply in your morning skincare routine before you apply your foundation and the rest of your makeup. This is very important so as not to dilute the sunscreen with 20 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here other skincare products. It’s skincare details like this that are vital to getting the best results from the products you choose and use. Don’t expect instant results. There are products that can have dramat- ic, even overnight results, but they are the exceptions. It takes time for most products to really make a difference, and maintaining those results requires ongoing and regular use. For example, products to brighten skin and create an even skin tone can take three to six weeks to begin showing positive outcomes (assuming they are well formulated and you are also using a sunscreen every day). Products that are meant to protect and replenish skin and to defend it against signs of aging and other problems may show instant hydration and smoothness, but the long-term significant underlying benefit will take years to see. Using sunscreen every day helps protect skin from the serious consequenc- es of sun damage, and you’ll see a dramatic difference in skin tone and dull skin rather quickly when you start using it daily. But the real long-term benefit of using sunscreen daily will become astonishingly evident later in life when you compare your skin to the skin of friends who didn’t protect their skin from the sun. Then you will be thrilled that you followed our advice. Your skin must be “nourished and fed” daily. As you age, and mostly be- cause of sun damage from not wearing an SPF 30 or greater every day, your skin cannot naturally replenish the substances it needs to be healthy. Great skincare products give those substances back to skin. We cannot stress this enough! Skin-replenishing substances get used up quickly and must be resupplied on a constant, daily basis, twice a day. Don’t cheat your skin by not giving it the indispensable ingredients it needs to maintain a beautiful, healthy appear- ance, now and for years to come. Skin doesn’t renew itself only at night. We hear this repeatedly, “skin re- news itself only at night” and needs special ingredients that it doesn’t need during the day—it isn’t true. All of our skincare woes are happening all day long, whether from the environment, daylight, aging, health problems, or midlife changes. Skin needs help, day and night, to renew itself and minimize more problems from taking place. Also, there is no research showing that there are skincare ingredients your skin needs at night that it doesn’t need during the day, although during the day, the important skincare ingredients must be accompanied by sun protection. One product can’t do it all. All skin types (especially if you have multiple concerns) require a variety of products to give you the best skin of your life. For Skincare Facts Everyone Needs to Know 21 some people basic core products you need for every day (i.e., cleanser, toner, exfoliant, sunscreen for daytime, and moisturizer at night) can be all you need to take the best care of your skin. But if you have special skin concerns, such as very dry skin, advanced signs of aging, extremely oily or extremely combi- nation skin, uneven skin tone, among many other concerns, you will need to address those with specialized products designed for that specific problem. For issues like skin brightening, advanced sun damage, enlarged pores, clogged pores, dehydrated skin, rough skin texture, or acne, your basic core skincare routine will likely not be enough. Layering targeted solution prod- ucts specially designed for your specific skincare concerns will be the optimal way to get the best results possible from your skincare routine. Regularly use a leave-on exfoliant. The benefit to your skin from using a gentle leave-on exfoliant with AHA or BHA can be astounding and can show immediate results. Helping skin naturally shed the build-up of dead surface skin without any abrasion or harsh scrub particles can make all the difference in the world. The feeling of smoothness you will experience from the first day you start using it will surprise you. Keep in mind the cause of the build-up of dead surface skin doesn’t go away permanently rather an AHA or BHA exfo- liant is a maintenance step that you must apply consistently to take excellent care of your skin. And do not use an abrasive scrub or rough cleansing brush. The scraping these cause creates negative consequences that can make many skin concerns worse. Do consider a retinol and/or niacinamide product. There are so many reasons to apply a well-formulated retinol or niacinamide product it’s hard to know where to begin. We will focus on retinol and how it relates to specific skin types and concerns later, but for now, just know that both these skin-re- storing ingredient help all skin types be healthier, unclog pores, smooth skin, and improve the appearance of wrinkles and bumps. Of course, skin needs more than any one or two ingredients can provide, but retinol and niacinamide are two of those ingredients with special prop- erties that works for everyone, and the results can be amazing, over the short term and the long term. Pay attention when your skin changes. There are all sorts of things that can cause your skin to change seemingly overnight. Many women are aware of how monthly changes affect their skin; others experience skin differences when midlife changes start taking place. Seasonal weather variances, travel- ing to different climates, and extreme emotional stress can all affect your skin negatively. 22 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here Given that most people’s skin is not static, it is often necessary to adapt your skincare routine accordingly. For example, even if you never have had a bump or oily skin growing up, midlife changes or just cycle changes can make your skin react in a completely new way. If that happens, you’ll need to re- consider the skincare products you are using and change to products that are appropriate for your new skin type. That may mean you need to create an entirely new skincare routine, but far more typically you just need to add one or two products to what you are already using and/or stop using one or two products in your routine. Everyone needs the same vital ingredients to obtain healthy, younger, smoother, even-toned, firmer-looking, and bump-free skin. This is another fundamental aspect of skincare we must emphasize. All skin types—and we mean ALL skin types—need the same critically important skincare ingredi- ents to have the best skin possible. These ingredients include antioxidants, skin-restoring ingredients, and skin-replenishing ingredients. Each of these is mandatory, and we mean imperative, if you are to obtain the best skin of your life; we explain why in detail later throughout this book. Balance the needs of your skin type with the needs of your skin concerns. By skin type, we mean how oily, dry, combination, or sensitive your skin is. Skin concerns are signs of aging, uneven skin tone, loss of firmness, clogged pores, blemish-prone skin, redness, and sun damage from not using sunscreen daily (sunscreen is always part of the picture). Your skin type determines the texture of the products you use. Whether a cleanser, toner, exfoliant, moisturizer, sunscreen, or specialty formula for spe- cific concerns (such as serum, boosters, targeted solutions, or masks), the tex- ture of the product (rich cream or lotion for dry skin and gel, lotion-gel, fluid, or liquid for normal to oily skin) will again make all the difference in the world. So, while everyone’s skin needs the same fundamental ingredients— antioxidants, skin-restoring ingredients, and skin-replenishing ingredients— everyone should NOT be using the same type of texture in their products. If you have dry skin, using a matte-finish product will make your skin drier; if you have oily skin, using an emollient moisturizer will make your skin feel oilier and potentially clog pores. This is a very basic concept, but many com- panies and women don’t realize it. Know your skincare concerns. Separate from knowing your skin type (normal, oily, dry, or combination), you need to identify your specific skincare concerns, such as uneven skin tone, clogged pores, bumps, the appearance of wrinkles, loss of the feeling of firmness, sun damage from not wearing sun- screen (and how advanced that damage is), and so on. These concerns will Skincare Facts Everyone Needs to Know 23 determine what types of products or additional specialty products you need. Balancing the basic core skincare products you need for your skin type with the specialty products you need for your skin concerns are the pieces of the puzzle you need to put together to create the best skincare routine just for you. Layering products is often the best way to take care of your skin. While it is possible to maintain and achieve great skin with a relatively simple skin- care routine, that’s only true only if you have few or no multifaceted skincare problems or concerns. If you are not one of those lucky people, than layering products with beneficial formulations specifically for your concerns is often the key to obtaining the best results. Specialty products for advanced skincare concerns, such as complex signs of aging, more pronounced oily skin, temperamental skin, extremely dry skin, bump-prone skin, clogged pores, and many other problems, will require a more advanced skincare routine with solutions that work synergistically with the other products in your basic core skincare routine. Sunscreen. By the end of this book you will surely be tired of hearing this, but nothing is as vital as sun protection. Despite the abundant research showing how damaging unprotected sun exposure is and how tanning causes irreparable harm to skin, less than 20% of the population wears sunscreen on a regular basis and far less know how to apply it correctly or that wearing sun- screen but still getting a tan is devastating for skin. That’s why we keep repeat- ing this because so many haven’t gotten the message that sunscreen and being sun smart is a cornerstone of getting the best skin of your life now and forever! CHAPTE R 3 What Every Skin Type Needs We touched on this topic already, but now we’ll expand a bit on the critical types of ingredients that all skin types need. This section is short and sweet because in some ways it is as standard as discussing a healthy diet. Healthy foods are not a mystery, we know what they are when we’re shopping at the grocery store. The same is true for skincare. Scientific studies and the physiol- ogy of skin make it perfectly clear that healthy skin needs an ample supply of substances that are natural to skin. When we are young, our skin makes these substances in abundance, but over the years, these important substances gradually become depleted, the result of sun damage from not regularly wearing sunscreen, aging, mid-life changes, and health issues. As a result our skin is no longer able to resupply these substances in skin or to hold on to them. Providing your skin with these necessary substances via your daily skincare routine, twice a day, is what great skincare is all about. ANTIOXIDANTS Skin needs a generous supply of antioxidants. Antioxidants are a group of ingredients that diminish the impact on skin of the environment, stress, midlife changes, sun damage due to not wearing sunscreen daily, and myriad other issues. Anything you can do to slow the impact of these occurrences is incredibly beneficial, and antioxidants are definitely the foremost group of ingredients that are fundamental to doing just that. The best moisturizers (lotions for normal skin, creams for dry skin, and gels and liquids for oily/combination skin) are formulated with a potent blend of antioxidants that help provide skin with what it needs to fight off the negative influences that can impact skin. 26 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here Antioxidants must be housed in packaging that ensures they remain effec- tive, which means they should not be packaged in a jar or in clear packaging because antioxidants break down in the presence of light and air. SKIN-REPLENISHING INGREDIENTS Environmental attack decreases skin’s ability to resupply and maintain the substances that are important for skin’s integrity as it did when we were younger. When these skin-replenishing ingredients (also referred to some- times as skin-identical ingredients) are present in abundance they keep skin supplied with protective ingredients that help maintain moisture balance and conserve skin’s all-important ability to renew itself day in and day out. These ingredients help maintain a resilient supple skin surface that allows skin to look smooth, soft, enlivened, and luminous. It also helps skin readjust and become normalized, which is critical for every skin concern imaginable. There are many skin-replenishing ingredients, including such well-known substances as hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, glycerin, ceramides, leci- thin, sodium PCA, and many more. These skin-loving ingredients keep skin supplied with what it needs to be refreshed and supple, and to looking glow- ingly revived every day. SKIN-RESTORING INGREDIENTS Skin-restoring ingredients can help skin appear more radiant and younger by boosting skin’s rejuvenating processes. It really is astounding what these types of ingredients can do for skin. Once again those insidious culprits—environmental assault, sun damage from not wearing sunscreen daily, aging, and midlife changes—limit skin’s ability to renew itself as it once did. The result is skin that is less hydrated, less supple, shows more signs of aging and loss of firmness, uneven skin tone, and loses the ability to take care of itself by keeping surface skin organized and intact. Skin-restoring ingredients help skin not only look renewed, but also feel and appear normal, balanced, and younger in so many ways. This is an excit- ing area of skincare! The key players in this group are niacinamide, retinol, multiple peptides, lecithin, and adenosine triphosphate. CHAPTE R 4 Skin Type vs. Skin Concern One of the more confusing aspects of developing an effective skincare rou- tine is finding products that work for your skin type and also address your skin concerns. It’s important to understand exactly what you should be using for each skin type and skin concern. Here’s how it works. Skin type is the primary feel of your skin: dry, oily, combination (meaning oily in some areas, dry in others), or normal (meaning neither oily nor combi- nation nor dry, just normal). Some people would add temperamental skin as a skin type, but because the research shows that skin can be reactive to many things, from the environ- ment to problematic skincare products, and whether or not we feel it, every- one’s skin is sensitive to some degree and must be handled gently. Aside from sunscreen, being gentle is as fundamental to skincare as it gets. Before we go any further, it’s important to explain what we mean by “nor- mal” skin type. When you hear “normal” described as a skin type, you might envision someone with perfect skin—we certainly think of it that way. From that perspective, having normal skin would mean your skin is neither too oily nor too dry, has minimal to no signs of dryness or oily shine, has a smooth surface with no clogged pores or visible pores, and has an even skin tone with no visible signs of aging. The problem with this description of normal skin is that such perfect skin is rare, and if you do have it when you’re young it certainly can’t last. Eventu- ally, someone with normal skin will have to deal with the signs of aging, the ravages of not protecting skin from the sun 365 days a year, exposure to the environment, and midlife changes as you move into your 40s. Skin concerns include clogged pores, uneven skin tone, dullness, break- outs, signs of aging, rough skin texture, and loss of firmness. 28 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here Once you’ve determined what your skin type is, whether it’s normal, dry, oily, or combination, and you know your primary skin concerns, you can then determine what type of products you need for your basic core skincare rou- tine. The core products are the primary ones you should be using every day and they are the same for everyone. Products for your essential core skincare routine: »» Cleanser. »» Toner. »» Leave-on exfoliant. »» Daytime moisturizer with sunscreen. »» Nighttime moisturizer. The next step is to be sure the texture of your core products is appropriate for your skin type: »» Creamy, rich-textured products for dry skin. »» Light lotion-textured products for normal skin. »» Gel-, fluid-, or watery-textured products for oily/combination skin. I JUST DON’T UNDERSTAND MY SKIN TYPE OR MY SKIN CONCERNS Lots of people are confused about their skin type and skin concerns and we completely understand why. The confusion arises because people often are actually causing a skin type and/or skin concerns that they would not nor- mally have. So many things can affect skin type and skin concerns, from unprotected sun exposure, diet, smoking, to too much alcohol. But also high up on that list is using skincare products that aggravate your skin and cause it to react in neg- ative way. These non-irritating types of products will make skin drier, oilier, and reddened in areas, increasing the appearance of wrinkles, making it less firm, rougher, and less radiant, triggering clogged pores, and becoming more sensitive. Sadly, non-irritating skincare products are not easy to find. The very skincare products you are using can be a major factor in caus- ing a skin type and/or skin concern to occur or become worse. In fact, you may never know your actual skin type or get your skin concerns under control if you use products that contain ingredients that cause or intensify the very problems you don’t want. If you use products that contain harsh or skin-aggravating ingredients, are too emollient or too light for your skin type, aren’t gentle (think scrubs or dry- Skin Type vs. Skin Concern 29 ing cleansers or toners with witch hazel or denatured alcohol), or you aren’t using a sunscreen with an SPF 30 or greater, whatever you want to be better about your skin won’t happen. Products with ingredients that aggravate your skin disturb and deplete the surface, making it drier and weakened, which add up to worsening signs of ag- ing, skin looking dull and unhealthy, and even triggering bumps and clogged pores. Alternatively, if you use overly emollient or thick-textured products and you have oily skin you will make it feel oilier and have more clogged pores or bumps. If you use emollient moisturizers along with a drying cleanser you can create combination skin, oily in some areas and dry in others. If you don’t use a well-formulated, gentle leave-on exfoliant you can have a build-up of dead surface skin that can’t shed in a normal manner, which will lead to dull skin with a rough uneven texture, skin that feels less supple and less firm, and worsening of enlarged clogged pores. If you over-scrub and use drying cleansers, regardless of your skin type you will impair skin’s surface, which will make all the problems mentioned above worse. Until you get these external factors under control, you will find it difficult to ever really know your skin type because you may be causing it to be dif- ferent from what it normally would be, and not in a good way. The kinds of products you use make all the difference in the world when trying to reach your goal of having the best skin of your life now. Once you’ve ruled out the controllable factors that can affect your skin type (for example, unprotected sun exposure, smoking, too much alcohol) and eliminate problematic products (for example, poor formulations, jar packag- ing, ingredients that aren’t gentle, or products like scrubs that harm and de- plete the surface of skin, not using sunscreen) from your routine, you’ll be able to more accurately determine your skin type. HOW TO DETERMINE YOUR SKIN CONCERN(S) In some ways this is the easiest section of the book because most of us are painfully aware of what our skin concerns. For example, most of us already know what fine lines, bumps, clogged enlarged pores, loss of firmness, uneven skin tone, and signs of aging look like. That’s the easy part. The most important takeaway about skin concerns is that most people have multiple skin concerns at the same time. It is not unusual for someone to have some combination of sensitive skin with red areas, fine lines, sun damage from not using a sunscreen daily, uneven skin tone, patches of dryness, and 30 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here areas that are oily and have clogged pores. This is where skincare can get com- plicated because once you’ve identified your skin concerns, then you need to add the specialty solution products to address them. Your core skincare routine may be enough to handle many aspects of your skin concerns, depending on how stubborn or complex they are. You are the only who can determine how targeted and precise a skincare routine you want and need. YOUR ESSENTIAL CORE SKINCARE ROUTINE This section describes the products you need to build an essential core skincare routine. Everyone, and we mean everyone, regardless of age or gen- der, can benefit from following these steps, even teenagers. The basics are: Twice a day use a gentle water-soluble cleanser appropriate for your skin type; more emollient for dry skin, more of a lotion for normal skin, and a gel or pearlized lotion with a bit of sudsing for oily/combination skin. If you want to use a cleansing brush, make sure the head is exceptionally gentle. You can also use a soft wash-cloth. A scrub is an option only if it is not abrasive and contains only rounded (not jagged) soft particles to provide the extra cleansing. Non-irritating is the ultimate goal for everyone. At night, you can start or follow with a makeup remover to be sure you’ve removed every last bit of makeup. You never ever want to fall asleep in your makeup because you can wake up to clogged pores, bumps, sensitive skin, and puffy eyes. Next is a toner that, of course, must be completely non-irritating and con- tain the important ingredients we mentioned before, such as antioxidants, skin-replenishing ingredients, and skin-restoring ingredients. For normal to oily skin, a toner should have a liquid lightweight sheer formula; for dry skin it should have a milky more emollient feel. Follow with an AHA or BHA leave-on exfoliant in a formula appropriate for your skin type. We explain at length in the next chapter why an exfoliant is needed as a basic part of any skincare routine. It goes without saying, but we will say it anyway (you know we can’t help ourselves): During the day you must wear a sunscreen with SPF 30 or greater and you must experiment to find a sunscreen with a texture that makes your skin happy. For someone with dry skin a creamier formula should be perfect, for someone with normal skin a lotion formula will be great, and if you have oily/combination skin, a matte-finish sunscreen would work best. Skin Type vs. Skin Concern 31 At night you need a moisturizer to feed your skin once again, with healthy amounts of antioxidants, skin-replenishing ingredients, and skin-restoring ingredients. The texture of your moisturizer must be appropriate for your skin type. If you have oily/combination skin, a liquid, gel, or thin serum would be ideal; dry skin would need a rich emollient cream; and normal skin would do great with a lotion. LAYERING SKINCARE PRODUCTS The basic building blocks for taking the best care of your skin are the core skincare steps mentioned above. For lots of people, that’s all it takes to keep and maintain the best skin of your life. The next layer of building blocks might need to be added to your skincare routine if you have more complicated skin concerns or an extreme skin type (very oily or very dry skin). If that’s the case, then additional steps will be cru- cial—this is where layering targeted solutions becomes imperative. Depending on your special skin concerns (e.g., breakout-prone, obvious dullness, clogged pores, advanced sun damage from not wearing sunscreen daily, redness, uneven skin tone) and/or your special skin type (e.g., extremely oily, extremely dry, uncomfortable, or difficult combination skin), you may want to consider adding one or more products that are specially formulated to address those issues. Layering involves supplementing your core routine with products, often referred to as serums, essences, targeted solutions, or boosters, that are for- mulated to address your specific skincare concerns. You can add these types of focused products at almost any point in your skincare routine, after cleansing, toning, and exfoliating. Depending on the type of problems, these solutions can be used daily, every other day, once a week, or seasonally. The most important thing to understand is that no single product can do it all when you have distinct and disparate skin concerns. It’s possible that it may take only one extra product, but that depends entirely on the problems with which you are dealing. Layering is not a new concept in skincare, but given the new and advanced lightweight and highly compatible formulations that can truly make a marked difference in addressing specific skin concerns, better skin awaits you once you understand how layering works and what products will produce the best results. C HAPTER 5 Which Skincare Products You Need and Which Ones You Don’t CLEANSERS No other aspect of skincare is as basic or as important as a cleanser. Cleans- ing the face sets the stage for almost everything else that will take place on your skin. A great cleanser removes excess oil, dirt, impurities, and makeup, leaving skin smooth and fresh without feeling greasy or dry. If you don’t cleanse your skin regularly or if you don’t remove all your makeup, your skin will pay the price, with potential clogged pores, dry patch- es, puffy eyes, and red areas. Careful cleansing is essential for every skin type, and it’s equally critical for every skin type that the cleansing products be gentle. Over-cleansing or using cleansers that are too drying are major causes of skin problems, especially dry- ness, flaky patches, and redness. On the other hand, using a cleanser that leaves a greasy film on the face or that doesn’t clean well can lead to clogged pores and dull-looking skin, and prevent moisturizers from being absorbed and doing their job. It is essential to get this step right, and that means thoroughly, but gently, cleansing your face. Should you start with a makeup remover? Many people feel their cleans- ing routine should start with a makeup remover, such as a liquid remover, makeup wipes, or a cleansing oil. Although this works well for some people (particularly if you wear a heavy makeup application), they are merely an op- tion, not a requirement. Regardless of the type of makeup remover you use, keep in mind that the action of wiping and pulling at the face, especially around the eyes, is a prob- lem. Tugging on skin encourages sagging. The less you pull, the better your skin will hold up in the long run. 34 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here As is true for many aspects of skincare, you should experiment to see what works best for your skin type and your own personal preferences—but do take care not to pull or tug on skin, whether you use a makeup remover before or after cleansing. What about facial cleansing oils? The term “facial cleansing oil” is a bit confusing because the category is not clear-cut. Some facial cleansing oils are “oils” in name only; they’re actually more like emollient water-soluble cleans- ers that are meant to be rinsed off. These can be a great option if you have normal to very dry skin. Traditional facial cleansing oils usually are an actual blend of plant oils or a single plant oil that are massaged onto the face and then wiped off. This is an- other way to remove makeup and can be followed by a water-soluble cleanser; for those with extremely dry skin, just wiping the oil away is enough. There are lots of myths circulating about facial cleansing oils. We prefer facts to myths, and the fact is that facial cleansing oils are not miracles for skin, they’re just another option that may or may not be helpful for you de- pending on your skin type and concerns. The notion that cleansing oils can somehow unclog pores by some force of chemistry pulling clogs out of the pore is not supported by any research. We still don’t understand the explanations we’ve seen for this as they defy science and physiology. Keep in mind that many facial cleansing oils also contain fragrant oils, which present a serious problem for skin. As we will repeatedly state through- out this book, fragrance, whether natural or synthetic, causes problems for skin. Non-fragrant plant oils are the only ones you should ever consider put- ting on your face. What about bar soap? We wish we could say bar soaps are great for skin as that would make choosing a cleanser so much easier and less expensive; regrettably, that’s not the case. For many reasons, it’s best to never use bar soap on the face, and also helpful to avoid it from the neck down. This is particular- ly true if you have problems with dry skin or breakouts anywhere on your face or body, but no matter what your skin type, there are significant issues with using most bar soaps or bar cleansers. Many people with combination, or oily skin believe that the tight sensation they feel after washing with soap means their face is really clean. The thinking is that the more squeaky-clean their face feels, the better their skin will be, yet just the opposite is true! The feeling associated with being squeaky-clean is most likely an indication that skin is being aggravated, dried out, and stressed, which makes all skin problems worse. Which Skincare Products You Need and Which Ones You Don’t 35 There are specialty soaps with non-soap–sounding names. Typically they contain creams and emollients, appearing from the name to have none of the drying properties of regular soap, and sound as if they would be good for dry sensitive skin. Unfortunately, they still present problems similar to the problems of bar soaps. First, bar cleansers can be somewhat easier on skin, but they’re still more drying than and not as gentle as, the best water-soluble cleansers, and gentle as you are learning is vitally important to skin. How do I choose a gentle cleanser? Generally, liquid or lotion-style cleans- ers are more gentle than bar cleansers, but that’s not always true because not all liquid and lotion cleansers are created equal. Making things more difficult, it’s nearly impossible to choose a cleanser based on its ingredient label because the technical names of the ingredients are absurdly complicated and there are hundreds of options a formulator can use. In short, it’s difficult to answer the question: How do I choose a cleanser? (Part of me just wants to tell you to use Paula’s Choice Skincare cleansers to be safe, but you probably already know I feel that way.) What we can say for certain is that the best cleansers, regardless of skin type, should never leave your face dry, greasy, or tight. There’s a fine line be- tween a cleanser that cleans well but doesn’t strip vital substances from skin’s surface, and this is true for all skin types. For those with normal to oily skin along with clogged pores or bumps, get- ting skin really clean is often misunderstood. Overzealous cleansing or want- ing skin to be squeaky-clean can mean skin is being stripped of its protective surface, and that type of cleansing worsens oiliness and prolongs a host of other problems. Do I need a scrub or a cleansing brush? Scrubs and cleansing brushes are certainly options as part of your daily cleansing routine. Both can provide ex- tra cleansing, which can be helpful, but in terms of effective exfoliation scrubs and brushes offer only superficial manual exfoliation via abrasion and that’s a problem for skin. As a gentle cleansing step they are fine but to evenly, natu- rally, and imperceptibly shed built-up dead skin they aren’t the direction you should turn to. The way skin exfoliates naturally is beyond what manual exfoliation can provide. When skin exfoliates naturally it is an undetectable, invisible process. Skin naturally sheds millions of skin pieces a day but you don’t see any of it and you certainly don’t feel it. Scrubs and cleansing brushes have considerable limitations when com- pared to the numerous benefits of a completely non-abrasive, leave-on AHA or BHA exfoliant (more about those in the next sections). Scrubs and cleans- 36 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here ing brushes deal only with the very top superficial part of skin, while most of the unhealthy built-up surface dead skin is beyond the reach of where a scrub or cleansing brush can extend. If you want to use a manual scrub, be sure it doesn’t contain any abrasive ingredients, even if they are natural. If using a cleansing device, be sure you use only the device’s “sensitive” brush-head option. The brushes on such de- vices should feel very soft and flexible, never stiff or wiry. You also can simply use a gentle washcloth with your daily cleanser, which provides skin with a manual cleansing step. As a bonus, washcloths are often softer (thus more gentle), less expensive, and, of course, they don’t contain pore-clogging ingredients! TONERS: DO YOU REALLY NEED ONE? Toners have become a confusing category of skincare products. Because of misperceptions, you may have read or been told not to use a toner, or that a toner is just an optional step. That’s disappointing because a well-formulated toner can provide wonderful benefits for your skin. Toners are meant to be used after cleansing. They were once recommend- ed as a way to refresh skin’s pH balance after using a bar soap or a bar cleanser because those types of cleansers can raise skin’s natural pH to a level that isn’t good for your skin. However, given today’s gentle, water-soluble cleansers that has become a non-issue. What we now know from research is that after cleansing, your skin needs a range of ingredients to revitalize and renew its surface. A toner can instantly give skin a generous amount of the important substances we’ve been men- tioning in a way that a moisturizer cannot (lotion and cream moisturizers work differently from liquids). Plus, you really can’t give your skin too much of these important reviving ingredients, which include antioxidants, skin-re- plenishing, and skin-restoring ingredients. The right toner can give your skin a healthy measure of what it needs to look younger, fresher, and smoother, right after cleansing and throughout the day, as well as provide a bit of extra cleansing just in case you missed some areas, such as around your hairline or jaw. Toners for oily skin with clogged pores or bump-prone skin: If you have oily or breakout-prone skin, you must be especially careful when shopping for toners. Almost without exception, the toners that claim to be specifically for these skin types and concerns are a problem. That’s because most toners for oily, breakout-prone skin contain skin-aggravating ingredients such as alco- hol, witch hazel, and menthol that impede skin’s ability to be healthy. Using Which Skincare Products You Need and Which Ones You Don’t 37 the wrong toner on oily, breakout-prone skin can cause skin to be oilier, red- dened, and often dry and flaky. The best toners for oily or breakout-prone skin are those with ingredients that soothe and recharge skin’s surface, make skin feel smoother, diminish enlarged pores, and contain antioxidants and skin-replenishing ingredients to make sure skin has what it needs to ward off dryness and sensitivity. For some skin types, especially during summer or in warmer climates, a well-formulated toner may be the only “moisturizer” your oily skin needs! Toners for dry or sensitive skin: Those with dry or sensitive skin typically shy away from toners because of their astringent, drying reputation; after all, the last thing dry, sensitive skin needs are harsh ingredients! But, the right toner for dry or sensitive skin can make a world of difference: You’ll see less redness and less flaking, and your skin will feel soothed and comfortable. The goal with toners is to quickly replenish skin after cleansing and, while that is important for all skin types, it is especially important for those with dry or sensitive skin. If you’re skeptical (and we can’t say we blame you) give a well-formulated toner a try—we know you’ll be pleasantly surprised with how fast your skin improves! Toners for combination skin: If your skin is oily on your forehead, nose, and chin and dry to normal on your cheeks or jaw area, then you have classic combination skin. Using the wrong toner on combination skin will exagger- ate the dry areas and make oily areas worse (this is doubly true if breakouts and clogged pores are present). What’s the solution? You need a gentle toner with ingredients that help normalize your skin, so you’ll see less dryness and oiliness. With ongoing use as part of a complete skincare routine, you’ll also see enlarged pores become smaller and the surface of skin feel balanced and normalized. When shopping for toners, it’s critical that you consider only those that give your skin to nothing but beneficial ingredients—only the good and none of the bad. WHY LEAVE-ON EXFOLIANTS ARE SO IMPORTANT If scrubs aren’t an ideal option for exfoliation, then you might be wonder- ing what you should be using instead? Without question, almost everyone can benefit from daily use of a well-formulated leave-on AHA (alpha hydroxy acid, such as glycolic and lactic acids) or BHA (beta hydroxy acid, also known as salicylic acid) exfoliant. These exfoliants work far differently from scrubs or 38 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here cleansing brushes. A gentle leave-on exfoliant helps shed dead skin when it can’t do it naturally on its own any longer. This completely non-abrasive form of exfoliation provides multiple ben- efits, including fighting signs of aging and alleviating uneven skin tone, dull- ness, and breakouts, so don’t let the “acid” in the name of these amazing ingre- dients scare you. Here’s how it works. Your skin naturally sheds immense amounts of dead skin every day, but this shedding process can slow and practically stop due to sun damage especially advanced sun damage (from years of unprotected sun exposure), dry skin, oily skin, midlife changes, and various skin concerns. All of those things can cause a build-up of dead skin on the surface and inside the pore lining. The not-too-pretty results of this are unmistakable: dull, dry, or flaky skin; clogged, enlarged pores; bumps; fine lines; loss of firmness; and uneven skin tone. Adding a gentle leave-on exfoliant to your skincare routine helps put ev- erything in balance again. When you gently and imperceptibly get rid of the build-up of dead skin, you help unclog pores, help smooth out fine lines, and can even make dry, dull skin a thing of the past! In fact, AHAs and BHAs actually provide significant hydration for skin, something you could never achieve with a scrub or cleansing brush. A leave- on AHA or BHA exfoliant can be the best way to achieve a new healthy glow- ing radiance, sometimes overnight. You may be wondering what the difference is between an AHA exfoliant and a BHA exfoliant. A very good question as this can prove to be a confusing nuanced difference and that’s because when properly formulated, both AHAs and BHA are brilliant options for exfoliating the surface of skin and can work for both skin types. Now that does make it confusing as which one you should choose. Both AHA and BHA have a lot in common when it comes to improving hydration, diminishing the appearance of wrinkles, renewing skin, and im- proving loss of firmness. Both also can improve an uneven skin tone and make skin imperfections less visible. But, each also has unique qualities you’ll want to consider when deciding which one to use: »» AHAs are preferred for those whose chief concerns are dry skin because they exfoliate primarily on the surface of skin. They do not cut through oil, so they are less compatible for those who have oily/combination skin. »» BHA is preferred for oily skin, clogged pores, enlarged pores, and bumps because BHA can cut through the oil that’s clogging your pores and there- fore helps to normalize the pore significantly lessening bumps. Which Skincare Products You Need and Which Ones You Don’t 39 To get the most benefit from your AHA or BHA exfoliant: »» Experiment with different strengths of AHAs and BHA to see which con- centration gives you the best results. »» Apply an AHA or BHA product once or twice per day depending on your skin type and skin concerns. Again experimenting is the best way to deter- mine how often using it works best for you. »» Both types of exfoliant can be used around the eye area, but not on the eyelid or directly under the eye (along the lower lash line). »» Apply the AHA or BHA product on your face after cleansing and after you’ve applied your toner. »» Once the AHA or BHA product has been absorbed, you can apply any other product in your routine, such as moisturizer, serum, eye cream, sunscreen, and/or foundation. WHY YOU SHOULD USE A SERUM While it’s true that every product in your routine should contain a skin-helpful array of antioxidants, skin-replenishing ingredients, and skin- restoring ingredients, the best serums should have more advanced concen- trated formulations. Depending on your specific skincare concerns you may need higher amounts of these valuable skincare ingredients with anti-aging and skin- restoring benefits. We wish these concentrated quantities could all fit in your nighttime moisturizer or daytime moisturizer with SPF, but there simply isn’t room for the extra amounts of these strategic skincare ingredients. Serums shouldn’t contain the sunscreen active ingredients that a daytime moisturizer does or the emollients or light-texture enhancing ingredients of your nighttime moisturizer. Instead, serums use that extra space to pack in other beneficial ingredients, such as more antioxidants and/or skin-restoring ingredients than other products in your routine have. A serum does not replace your daytime moisturizer with SPF or your night- time moisturizer (though for some skin types like oily skin a serum instead of your moisturizer can be best), but they will improve your overall anti- aging results and overall skin health when used once or twice a day under your moisturizer or under your moisturizing sunscreen. Exception: If you have oily skin a well-formulated weightless-feeling serum can work as a double-duty product that replaces a nighttime moisturizer. The serum can be the only moisturizer your skin needs at night! Finding a good serum is akin to starting a long-term relationship—the real benefits come from sticking with your serum day in and day out. While you’ll 40 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here likely see some improvements right away (because the antioxidant-rich for- mula soothes, calms, and brightens skin), over the long term you’ll begin to see other signs of aging diminish and your skin will look and feel healthier and firmer! There’s no single “best” serum, so choose your serum based on your skin type and concerns. No matter how well-formulated a serum is, if it isn’t com- patible with your skin type, you’ll end up disliking the results, and you won’t stick with it. For example, if you have oily or combination skin, look for a water-light serum that doesn’t feel heavy or greasy. Alternatively, if you have dry skin, you’ll likely love a serum packed with antioxidant-rich moisturizing plant oils! If your skin is not oily, combination, or dry, choose a serum based on personal preference, and don’t be afraid to experiment. WHY YOU SHOULD CONSIDER USING A BOOSTER Even if you have a great skincare routine that includes the most important products like cleanser, toner, exfoliant, daytime moisturizer with SPF, serum, and a nighttime moisturizer, your skin may still need extra help to handle your specific advanced concerns to obtain the best results possible results no matter your skin type. That’s where boosters can help! Boosters generally focus on a high potent concentration of one ingredient or a blend of a specific category of ingredient to give your skin a generous sup- ply of what these unique skin-transforming superstars can do for skin. This doesn’t mean one ingredient is ever enough for skin but there are certain in- gredients that when applied in higher concentrations do provide unique ben- efits. For Paula’s Choice Skincare we’ve developed five boosters: RESIST 10% Niacinamide Booster, RESIST C15 Super Booster, RESIST Moisture Renewal Oil Booster, RESIST Hyaluronic Acid Booster, and RESIST 1% Retinol Booster, and we’ll talk about these more later. And just like for a serum there’s no single best one you need to choose the one best for your skin concern. Keeping a long-term relationship with these precious ingredients is where the real ben- efits are achieved. Every day you have to help your skin do what it can’t do any longer on its own and that’s where boosters can step into help. A MOISTURIZER BY ANY OTHER NAME Moisturizer. Wrinkle cream. Firming essence. Anti-aging cream. Whatever the product is called (and the variations are endless), a moisturizer is supposed to improve skin’s softness, smoothness, and ability to hold onto the vital sub- stances it needs to look and feel younger. Some moisturizers are brilliant at Which Skincare Products You Need and Which Ones You Don’t 41 this, but a surprising number of them fall short, and that applies to a lot of the more expensive options. Even though the standard term for this skincare step is “moisturizer,” it’s not really about giving skin moisture (meaning water), and it isn’t just about applying a lotion or cream. Moreover, and this may really stun you, not every- one needs a “moisturizer.” What everyone needs twice a day is to give their skin ample amounts of antioxidants, skin-restoring ingredients, and skin- replenishing ingredients. As we’ve said repeatedly, these types of ingredients are essential to achiev- ing and maintaining the skin you want by giving it the substances it needs to renew, rejuvenate, and stay hydrated and healthy every day. Regardless of the product name or texture, choosing a product loaded with these elements is vital for making skin look as young and healthy as possible. If a “moisturizer” is well-formulated and includes an array of those key in- gredients, the only thing you need to think about is the texture. If they are well-formulated, the only thing that differentiates “moisturizers” and anti- wrinkle or similar products from one another is their texture. If you have dry to very dry skin, you need a “moisturizer” that has a creamy texture; if you have normal to dry skin, a lotion formula will work well. If you have normal to slightly dry skin or combination skin, a lightweight lotion or thin fluid is your best choice. If you have oily skin and clogged pores, a gel, flu- id, or liquid “moisturizer” is the absolute best option. And all of these should be packed to the brim with the essential skincare ingredients everyone needs. If you are using a serum, apply it before you apply the moisturizer. During the day, apply the serum and then apply your moisturizing sunscreen. MOISTURIZERS WITH SPF: THE CORNERSTONE! It’s okay to be obsessive about some things, like eating healthy, brushing your teeth, driving safely, and using sunscreen 365 days a year rain or shine. That last item, daily application of a moisturizer with sunscreen, is mandatory if you’re ever going to have the best skin of your life. Your dedication to applying sunscreen every day means you’ll have the last laugh when it comes to laugh lines and other signs we associate with aging, which are overwhelmingly about unprotected sun exposure. Without a doubt, sunscreen is the #1 anti-aging skincare product you can use. Unprotected exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light is the #1 cause of virtually every sign of aging. We refer to sunscreen as the cornerstone of a skincare routine because without it, nothing else you do to improve the youthfulness, 42 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here health and appearance of your skin will have enduring impact. UV exposure without protection literally destroys skin, slowly and surely. No matter what you’ve been told the fact is the only real difference be- tween a nighttime moisturizer and a daytime moisturizer is sunscreen but all the other elements we’ve been talking about still apply. Aside from having an SPF 30 or greater your daytime moisturizer still must contain the same array of beneficial ingredients as your nighttime moisturizer. And, as we said, there is no research showing that skin needs different ingredients during the night versus during the day, so whatever you’ve heard to the contrary is not backed up by science. The texture issue also applies for your daytime moisturizer with sunscreen as well. If you have dry skin, an emollient cream moisturizer with SPF works best. If you have a more normal skin type, a light lotion texture is perfect. If you have normal to oily combination skin, a very light fluid moisturizer with SPF with a soft matte finish is ideal. PACKAGING MATTERS! Packaging is important, and we’re going to repeat it frequently because it bears repeating: Do not use any moisturizer, serum, booster, essence, or any skincare product containing beneficial ingredients that comes packaged in a jar! No matter how great a product’s formula is, jar packaging is always a deal breaker if the product contains air sensitive ingredients and as it turns out most every antioxidant and skin-restoring ingredient that exists, doesn’t like air. Jar packaging exposes these potent beneficial, but inherently unsta- ble, ingredients to light and air, causing them to break down and lose their effectiveness. Given the number and variety of products available today that come in air-reducing or airless packaging, why waste your money on products whose most beneficial ingredients will be less effective shortly after the first use? EYE CREAMS An eye cream is certainly an option if it’s a well-formulated product con- taining ingredients that are helpful for skin around the eyes and if it does not contain problematic ingredients. We know that sounds like a really basic idea, a no-brainer, so to speak, but there are lots of eye creams that contain ingre- dients that are not suitable for skin, whether around the eye area or anywhere else on the face. Which Skincare Products You Need and Which Ones You Don’t 43 For example, a serious concern about eye creams is that most of them do not contain sun protection, which would make them pro-aging, not anti-ag- ing (at least if you aren’t wearing them under a sunscreen). Unprotected sun exposure is a major cause of so many skincare woes they’re almost too long to list. Don’t let your eye-area skin fall prey to the sun’s assault, it needs sun protection just as much as rest of your face. Speaking of sunscreens for the eye area, we strongly recommend using only mineral-based sunscreen formulas around the eye area. In this case, “mineral” means that they contain titanium dioxide and/or zinc oxide as the only active ingredients. Both of these active ingredients are exceptionally gentle, which is very important for the eye area. It’s not that synthetic sunscreen ingredi- ents aren’t effective, because they are, it’s just that they aren’t as gentle and non-irritating as mineral-based sunscreen ingredients. This is true whether a product is labeled eye cream or not. All of the marketing hype about how eye creams are specially formulated for the sensitive, thin skin around the eyes or that they get rid of puffy eyes, dark circles, and lift or tighten sagging skin, is often not true. There are a few ingredients that can be considered special for the eye area, but, for the most part, the same essential ingredients that benefit facial skin also benefit eye-ar- ea skin. It’s absolutely okay to use a great facial moisturizer around the eye area, which is why we often say that not everyone needs an “eye” cream (or “eye” gel or “eye” serum). The only reason you would not use your well-formulated facial moisturizer around the eye area is if the skin around your eyes is different from the skin on your face. For example, if the skin around your eyes is drier than the skin on your face, you’ll need to use a more emollient moisturizer around the eyes. This also might be true if your skin is oily. In this case, the gel or liquid moisturizing formula that works great on the oily or combination skin on your face would probably not be moisturizing enough for the eye area. But again, it doesn’t have to be labeled “eye” cream. If it makes you feel better to use a special product for the eye area, that’s fine; as long as it’s a great product, we couldn’t be happier. CAN YOU GET RID OF PUFFY EYES? Puffy eyes are a common problem, whether they go away as the morning wears on or seem to never go away. The cosmetics industry knows this, which is why nearly every skincare company sells products claiming to get rid of puffy eyes. So how come you still have puffy eyes? 44 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here The answer is that even the most brilliantly formulated eye creams, gels, or serums can do only so much to improve puffy eyes. That doesn’t mean you won’t get some benefit, it’s just that you probably won’t reap the benefits to the degree you were hoping for. As always, we approach problems like this with research and facts so you have the information you need to get as close as realistically possible to minimize the appearance of puffy eyes. Here’s what you need to know and do. 1. Sleep Position: Keeping your head flat while you sleep allows fluid to collect in the skin around your eyes. Sleeping with your head slightly elevated (making sure your neck is properly supported) can help limit fluid retention around the eye area. Gentle fingertip massage around the eye area when you wake up can help with this kind of swelling. 2. Diet: Alcohol consumption and a diet high in salt leads to water reten- tion and increased puffiness around the eyes, which can linger throughout the day. Moderate or limited intake of alcohol, sodium, and processed foods can be incredibly helpful as can adding antioxidant-rich foods to your diet (e.g., fruits, vegetables, salmon); and stay hydrated. All of these can make a HUGE difference! 3. Contact Lenses: Even under the best of circumstances, contact lenses can cause your eyes to look tired and puffy. Ensure you are wearing the most comfortable type of contacts for your vision correction. Follow your eye-care provider’s exact recommendations for cleansing, wear, and disposal. Keeping your eyes lubricated with the appropriate eye drops also is helpful. 4. Allergies: Exposure to allergens, either in the air or by rubbing your eyes with allergen-laced fingers (touching plants or animals you’re allergic to and then touching your eyes transfer the allergen) can contribute to perpetual puffiness. It’s best to avoid touching your eyes, because rubbing not only pulls at skin (which encourages loose skin), but also may make puffiness worse. Also, you might talk to your physician about taking an antihistamine or using anti-allergy eye drops to control your allergy symptoms, such as runny, itchy eyes. Applying a cool (but not ice-cold) compress to your eyes also can help. 5. Dry Skin: Dryness around your eyes can cause sensitivity and a heavy crepey appearance that exacerbates puffy eyes and also makes them look less taut, lined and tired. An eye cream with skin-replenishing ingredients and antioxidants will keep skin remarkably hydrated, softened, and smoothed. It can make a world of difference and often makes an improvement that’s visible immediately. 6. Makeup Residue: Makeup, when left on overnight, or even a bit too long, can aggravate skin, a sure way to cause puffy eyes! Be sure to meticulously re- Which Skincare Products You Need and Which Ones You Don’t 45 move your makeup every night. Start with a mild, fragrance-free cleanser, and then remove the last traces of eye makeup (including mascara) with a gentle, fragrance-free eye makeup remover (one that’s also colorant-free is best for the eye area). Remember: Do not rub or pull the skin around your eyes when removing your makeup. 7. Exposure to Harsh Ingredients: Ingredients like menthol, camphor, al- cohol, essential oils, fragrant plant extracts, or any kind of fragrance (natural or synthetic) shouldn’t come anywhere close to your eyes. If your makeup or skincare products contain such ingredients, it can either cause eyes to be puffy or make the situation worse. Stop using the product and switch to a non-irri- tating alternative. 8. Sun Protection: You can’t avoid the litany of problems unprotected sun exposure causes for the eye area (not only for skin but also for the eye itself— just ask your ophthalmologist). UV light from the sun is your skin’s nemesis, so don’t let it get the upper hand. An eye cream or well-formulated moisturizer with SPF 30 or greater is critical for combating every aspect of your eyes look- ing older and getting puffiness under control. Sunscreen is the one product that can reduce the risk of early signs of aging and keep them from getting worse. 9. Sunglasses: Wearing sunglasses is important for many aspects of hav- ing healthy eyes. In terms of keeping the skin around your eyes beautiful and young, wearing sunglasses daily is one of our favorite anti-aging solutions for eyes, including diminishing puffy eyes. While the above guidelines for de-puffing your eyes is fundamental to get- ting results it is important to realize where they won’t be of help and that’s when your puffy eyes are a result of the fat pads around your eyes being pro- nounced and noticeable through skin. For some people, puffy eyes may just be their natural appearance, based on traits they got from their parents. If you have excess fat pads under the eye, skincare can’t address that problem—believe us, we wish it could. If this is your problem, the only way to deal with it is with help from a cosmetic der- matologist or surgeon. That’s the call you would have to make, or otherwise, you will just keep wasting your money on products that are incapable of ad- dressing this issue. While the solutions above may not be as dramatic as you had hoped (we get it, we wish eye creams could magically get rid of all puffiness just as much as you do), you’re now armed with the truth and won’t have to waste another dime on products that don’t actually work. And, for some of you, honing in on 46 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here the right cause and the right eye creams may be the perfect combination to make all the difference. WHAT ABOUT DARK CIRCLES UNDER THE EYE? Shadows and dark circles under the eye are caused by several factors, and each must be dealt with differently. Unfortunately, there aren’t any skincare products in the world that can tackle all or even most of the causes of the dark to black-ish circles under the eye area. That’s why product after product you’ve used in hopes they would eliminate these kinds of circles haven’t made the difference they promised. There are definitely things you can do to improve shadowy circles, but you won’t find your solution in a specialty product whose label espouses miracu- lous claims or a miracle ingredient. Below, you’ll find a hype-free guide to the causes and solutions for this common cosmetic problem. Numerous factors can cause or worsen circles, including: »» Sun damage from not wearing sunglasses or sunscreen 365 days a year. »» Blueish color looking more like deep shadows coming through thin skin around the eye area. »» Use of skin-aggravating ingredients around the eye area. »» Allergies. »» Naturally having deeper skin color around or under the eye area. »» Natural shadows resulting from deep-set eyes or sagging skin. »» Built-up dead skin that doesn’t shed naturally causing a thicker less hydrat- ed dull appearance. Although the solutions we recommend below are worth exploring, keep in mind that for some people, getting rid of dark circles entirely just isn’t possible. That’s where a great concealer and highlighter come into play, along with the incremental improvements you’ll notice from taking good care of your skin. »» Use a moisturizer with sunscreen of SPF 30 or greater under the eye area every day. »» Use a sunscreen around the eye area that contains only zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide as the active ingredients. These two sunscreen ingredi- ents are the most non-irritating and so best for the eye area. »» Always wear sunglasses outdoors. »» Consider using an antihistamine. If you have allergies, they can be a major cause of tired circles and puffy eyes. Talk to your doctor about over-the- counter and prescription options. Which Skincare Products You Need and Which Ones You Don’t 47 »» Use a more emollient moisturizer at night to keep skin super hydrated and softened. »» Consider twice-daily use of a well-formulated brightening product, which we will explain in more detail later in this book. »» Find a great concealer. A concealer with a matte finish (rather than one that’s creamy or greasy) is best because they tend to last longer than those with other finishes and they don’t tend to crease. The color of the concealer must be light enough to cover the circles convincingly, but not so light that it gives the appearance of a white mask around the eyes. After the con- cealer, dab on a sheer layer of liquid highlighter to reflect light away from naturally shadowed areas. TARGETED SOLUTIONS OR BOOSTERS FOR SPECIFIC CONCERNS At some point, most people’s skin will need one or more products we re- fer to as targeted solutions or boosters. As the names state, these specialized products target specific skin concerns or boost certain needs of skin for fine lines, stubborn bumps, redness, advanced signs of aging, extreme dryness, en- larged pores, and so on. For example, those who struggle with acne will likely benefit from products targeted to combat acne that contain benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid. Those with an uneven skin tone will likely benefit from a targeted solution or boost- er that contains ingredients like hydroquinone, niacinamide, or high concen- trations of vitamin C. Very dry skin can benefit from targeted solutions or boosters that are a blend of facial oils, used alone or mixed with a moisturizer. If you’re using multiple products to address multiple concerns over the same area, which one you apply first comes down to texture (go from thin to thick) and personal preference. The good news is you don’t need to worry about the ingredients in the different products interfering with one another; almost without exception, you can layer such products or use them as needed, morning and/or evening, depending on your concerns. CHAPTE R 6 How to Put Together the Perfect Skincare Routine SKINCARE ROUTINES THAT PROVIDE RESULTS We promised to help you get the best skin of your life in this book’s title, and here’s the basic secret when all is said and done: The only way to have beautiful skin—and keep it that way—is to start (and never stray from) using a state-of-the-art skincare routine based on what the scientific research shows works for your skin! There’s really no other way to finally have the skin you’ve always wanted without this. Focusing on fictional marketing about a new mir- acle ingredient or miracle product will not help your skin and will waste your money time after time. If you’ve been at this “best product” search for a while, you’ve got to be tired of that crazy merry-go-round, right? We got to that point—it’s what inspired us and still inspires us to find out what works and what doesn’t and why! With a wiser outlook in mind, the next step is to understand what kinds of products work together, how they benefit your skin, and the order in which to use them. The information we present in the table that follows is a relatively easy-to-follow guideline to help you put together your own skincare routine or to custom-select products based on what works best for you and your spe- cific skin concerns, step by step. Skin care needs to be customized for you spe- cific skin type and skin concerns. We explain the purpose of each type of product, why you need it, and what results you can expect, whether you prefer a basic or more advanced routine. Keep in mind that if you have multiple skincare concerns, you may need to add more than one targeted solution or booster product. Just as a reminder as you ponder our plan of action, we wish we could tell you there’s one skincare product that can do it all, but it just isn’t possible. Ad- 50 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here dressing a variety of skincare concerns requires more than one bottle or tube (of course never a jar) could provide, regardless of the product’s claims or cost. A note on targeted solutions and boosters: You may be able to merely add one targeted solution or booster to your daily routine, or you might need to alternate its use with other targeted solution or booster products. If your skin- care needs are complex and, therefore, involve several products, you might need to experiment to discover what frequency of application works best for you. Now let’s go over the products and the steps you need to get started! THE PRODUCTS YOU NEED AND WHY STEP 1: CLEANSER What is this for? A gentle, water-soluble, soap-free cleanser removes de- bris, oil, impurities, and makeup. Why do I need this? Rinsing with water is not enough to clean your face. When your face is clean, it allows the other products you use to work even better, morning and evening. What results will I see? Using a well-formulated cleanser, your skin will look and act healthier, feel smoother, and be ready to receive maximum bene- fits from your other products. STEP 2: TONER What is this for? A well-formulated toner smooths, softens, and calms skin, while removing the last traces of makeup. It also adds vital skin-replenishing ingredients after cleansing. Why do I need this? Toners with skin-replenishing ingredients hydrate and nourish skin’s surface immediately after cleansing. They also help mini- mize redness and dry patches. What results will I see? A well-formulated toner will make your skin feel softer and look smoother and will lessen redness. Daily use will give your skin what it needs to perform in a younger, healthier way. STEP 3: AHA OR BHA EXFOLIANT What is this for? A leave-on AHA or BHA exfoliant gently and impercep- tibly removes built-up dead skin, revealing new skin that was hiding below. AHAs exfoliate the surface of skin and can’t easily get through surface oil so they are best for dry skin; BHA can get through oil and therefore get to the surface of skin for those with oily skin providing exfoliation. And because How to Put Together the Perfect Skincare Routine 51 BHA can get through oil it can also exfoliate inside the pores and it can di- minish redness. Both AHA and BHA are very effective at maintaining skin’s hydration! Why do I need this? For many reasons the skin’s surface loses its ability to shed skin as it did when we were young, causing it to become thick and dull. Oily or combination skin complicates this further. Exfoliating with a gentle, non-abrasive, leave-on AHA or BHA exfoliant helps skin shed the way it did when we were young by naturally sloughing the build-up of dead skin. What results will I see? Overnight your skin can look radiant, smoother, and younger (really)! Daily exfoliation with a well-formulated AHA or BHA exfoliant will soften rough skin, unclog pores, lessen redness, diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and improve an uneven skin tone. STEP 4: ACNE PRODUCT (if needed) What is this for? After exfoliating with an AHA or BHA exfoliant and then following with an acne treatment with benzoyl peroxide substantially de- creases blemishes. Why do I need this? When acne is your concern, research shows that top- ically applying a product with benzoyl peroxide is an essential step for achiev- ing clear skin. What results will I see? With consistent use of a well-formulated, non- drying acne treatment with benzoyl peroxide, you’ll see fewer breakouts and a reduction in large, red, swollen blemishes. Your acne will be minimized, pos- sibly eliminated. OPTIONAL: SKIN BRIGHTENER AND/OR SKIN LIGHTENER (applied before your nighttime or daytime moisturizer) What is this for? Used at least once daily, skin brighteners or skin lighten- ers gradually lessen an uneven, dull, mottled skin tone. Why do I need this? To help enliven and improve an uneven skin tone, diminish a mottled appearance, and revitalize and potentially eliminate dull- ness. What results will I see? After 8–12 weeks of daily use, your skin tone will be more even and radiant. Ongoing use is needed to maintain results and you must absolutely use a sunscreen SPF 30 or greater 365 days a year. 52 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here OPTIONAL: SERUM (applied before your nighttime or daytime moisturizer) What is this for? Applied morning and evening, serums filled with concen- trated amounts of antioxidants, skin-restoring ingredients, and skin-replen- ishing ingredients protect skin from environmental damage, including sun damage (when used with a sunscreen) and pollution. Why do I need this? Well-formulated serums with concentrated amounts of skin-enhancing ingredients effectively fight multiple signs of aging. What results will I see? Immediately, your skin will feel smoother and look radiant. Twice-daily use will lessen signs of aging and your skin will look and feel healthier, firmer, and younger. OPTIONAL: TARGETED SOLUTIONS AND/OR BOOSTERS (applied before your daytime or nighttime moisturizer) What are these for? Targeted solutions and boosters are extras you can add, depending on your personal skincare concerns such as extra hydration, extra skin smoothing for dryness, extra skin-restoring ingredients, and extra skin brightening ingredients. Why do I need these? These products may be needed as an extra step to optimally hydrate skin, absorb excess oil, minimize redness, enhance the ap- pearance of plumper skin, smooth out very rough or dry skin, or even out skin tone. What results will I see? Results depend on the targeted solution or booster you choose. LAST STEP DURING THE DAY: ANTI-AGING MOISTURIZER WITH SPF SUNSCREEN What is this for? This essential morning last step in your skin care routine helps protect your skin from sun damage. The sunscreen must have an SPF 30 or higher rating, and offer broad-spectrum protection. Why do I need this? Moisturizers with SPF ingredients reduce the risk of early signs of aging and the risk of skin cancer. They also need to be formulat- ed with ingredients that resupply skin with the substances it always which are antioxidants, skin-replenishing ingredients, and skin-restoring ingredients. What results will I see? Protecting your skin from further sun damage al- lows it to remain younger like no other skincare product can. This is the criti- cal step to having radiant skin with far less signs of aging. And the good news it is never too late to start! How to Put Together the Perfect Skincare Routine 53 LAST STEP AT NIGHT: ANTI-AGING MOISTURIZER What is this for? All skin types will benefit from a well-formulated mois- turizer that contains the types of ingredients research has shown help skin look healthier and younger. Why do I need this? Used every night moisturizers (cream, lotion, gel, or liquid texture, based on your skin type) improve everything about your skin, including hydration, diminished appearance of wrinkles, softness, radiance, less redness, and smoothness. If your nighttime moisturizer is an emollient cream, you can also use it around the eye area. What results will I see? When you use the right moisturizer for your skin type, you’ll see smoother, more radiant skin that’s hydrated and healthier. Dry, dull, or flaky skin will be replaced by skin that looks and feels more resilient and supple! EXAMPLES OF A.M. AND P.M. SKINCARE ROUTINES Depending on your needs, your skincare routine can include only the core basics (what we call the Essential routine) or can be more complex (what we refer to as an Advanced routine). The following step-by-step Essential routines (for morning and evening) cover the types of products everyone should use and the order in which to use them every day. These steps apply regardless of your skin type, whether oily, dry, normal, or combination. The textures of each type of product will vary based on your skin type (lo- tion for normal skin, cream for dry skin, gel or liquid for oily skin) and person- al preferences, but the fundamentals and the order of application remain the same. PAULA’S CHOICE SKINCARE ESSENTIAL ROUTINE: MORNING »» Cleanser. »» AHA or BHA exfoliant. »» Daytime moisturizer with SPF 30 or greater (can also be your eye cream). PAULA’S CHOICE SKINCARE ESSENTIAL ROUTINE: EVENING »» Cleanser. »» AHA or BHA exfoliant. »» Nighttime moisturizer (can also be your eye cream). 54 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here If you have multiple concerns, an Advanced routine is the best way to go. Such routines include targeted solutions and boosters you can add to your Essential routine to resolve your specific skincare concerns. PAULA’S CHOICE SKINCARE ADVANCED ROUTINE: MORNING »» Cleanser. »» Toner. »» AHA or BHA exfoliant. »» Serum. »» Targeted solutions or boosters. »» Eye cream (with SPF or apply your facial SPF over it). »» Moisturizer with sunscreen. PAULA’S CHOICE SKINCARE ADVANCED ROUTINE: EVENING »» Cleanser. »» Toner. »» AHA or BHA exfoliant. »» Serum. »» Targeted solutions or booster as needed applied before your serum. »» Eye cream. »» Moisturizer. DO THE NECK AND CHEST NEED SPECIAL PRODUCTS? Fine lines, crepey skin, and uneven skin tone show up sooner on areas that haven’t been shielded from the sun over the years. This is especially true for the neck and chest because we tend to neglect those areas and forget they need sunscreen, too, leaving them exposed to the sun and the damage it caus- es. That’s why, for women, skincare really needs to start from your chest up, and it doesn’t take products labeled as being for the neck or chest. There is no research showing that the neck and chest areas require ingredi- ents that are different from those the face needs. In other words, the products you use on your face can and, in fact, should be used on your neck and chest! If anything, research makes it absolutely clear that what it takes to keep skin anywhere on your body looking and feeling young requires the same brilliant ingredients that you use on your face. That means gentle cleansing those areas and using products loaded with antioxidants, skin-restoring ingredients, and How to Put Together the Perfect Skincare Routine 55 skin-replenishing ingredients, along with dedicated use of a well-formulated broad-spectrum sunscreen SPF 30 or greater. That is what skin on your face needs and your neck, chest, and décolletage. CHAPTE R 7 Sun Damage and Sunscreen Questions Answered SUN DAMAGE IS NEVER PRETTY Sun protection is so important it merits its own chapter and us repeating as often as we can: Daily exposure to daylight (that comes through clouds, rain, and windows) without protection, even for a minute, is the one of the worst things you can do to your skin. Research has made it clear that repeated, un- protected sun exposure, getting sunburned, or repeatedly getting tan causes irreparable damage that over the years, in the absence of sun protection and sun-smart behavior, can wreak havoc on your skin. Years of unprotected sun exposure or, worse, getting a tan (even though you’ve applied sunscreen—an incredibly typical misunderstanding of sun damage), either from the sun or a tanning bed, puts your skin on the fast track to aging and the risk of skin cancer. For signs of aging you’ll see fine lines, sag- ging, uneven skin tone, texture changes, dullness, and large pores far sooner than those who are diligent about protecting their skin from daylight. Sun damage to skin, even on cloudy or overcast days. In other words, sun damage isn’t only a threat when the sun is shining; it’s a threat whenever and wherever you see daylight. And the damage starts happening the first minute your unprotected skin sees daylight! That research shocked even us. Protecting skin every day of the year, rain, snow, or shine, is critical if your goal is to have healthy, young-looking skin for as long as possible. The problem is that the topic of sunscreens and all the details surrounding their use has become a confusing mess of incomplete or misleading informa- tion—which is what this chapter aims to sort out! 58 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here HOW AND WHEN YOU APPLY SUNSCREEN IS IMPORTANT! Using a daytime moisturizer with sunscreen and knowing how to apply it is a complicated, confusing, and controversial issue, and we certainly under- stand if you’re wondering what to do. This is especially true about the rec- ommendation to reapply sunscreen every two hours—no matter what! That seems ridiculously inconvenient, to say the least. If you’re wearing makeup, are you supposed to wash it all off, reapply sunscreen, and then redo your makeup every two hours throughout the day? Who has time for all that?! We straighten that out below. There’s no question that wearing sunscreen daily, 365 days a year, reduces the risk of early signs of aging and skin cancer. Whether you decide to be sun smart is up to you; we know lots of you still feel that a summer or vacation tan is a must or that getting “just a little tan” is fine, but, please, at least consider the information below because, and we’re not exaggerating, your skin’s life depends on it. The following information will help you make sense of sunscreen, so you can get the best protection from the sun’s harmful rays: »» “SPF,” which stands for Sun Protection Factor, is an indicator of the length of time that your skin can be exposed to sunlight without turning pink (meaning your skin will start burning) when wearing an SPF-rated product. »» Although using a product rated SPF 15 is acceptable, the latest research suggests that higher SPF ratings are far more desirable because they pro- vide longer protection. Look for sunscreens rated SPF 30 or greater. »» The two types of UV rays that damage skin are UVA and UVB. UVA rays can be more impactful because they’re present all day long and get through windows. UVB rays are present with visible sunlight and can cause sun- burn, while UVA rays promote tanning. UVB rays are strongest in sunny climates between the hours of 10:00 a.m. and 2:00 p.m. UVA rays maintain a consistent intensity during daylight hours throughout the entire year. »» You must apply sunscreen liberally to obtain the benefit of the SPF num- ber on the label. Unfortunately, most people don’t apply sunscreen liberally and that is detrimental to their skin. This common mistake might lead you to believe that the sunscreen you applied isn’t effective. »» You must apply sunscreen before you leave the house. Do not wait to apply it when you get to your destination. That is a huge skincare mistake. A lot of damage can take place from the time you leave your house until you get to where you’re going. Sun Damage and Sunscreen Questions Answered 59 Does the sunscreen you apply in the morning still work in the late after- noon, following a day at the office or at school? The answer is yes, it still works, but its effectiveness depends on how much time you spend outdoors because the sunscreen’s active ingredients break down in response to direct exposure to daylight, not in response to the passage of time during a single day. On an average day (if you’re in an office or otherwise indoors), your morn- ing application of sunscreen is still going to provide sufficient UV protection on your way home, assuming you applied a liberal amount of an SPF 30 (or greater) product in the morning. If you spend the majority of your day outdoors, then the recommendation is to reapply every two hours, especially if you’re perspiring or swimming. The recommendation to reapply every two hours is based on the following: »» Most people don’t apply sunscreen liberally enough, and if you don’t you won’t be getting the SPF protection rating shown on the label. If you do not apply sunscreen liberally, then the apply-every-two-hours guideline makes sense, however impractical it may seem. The thinking goes like this: If you aren’t good about applying sunscreen liberally, then reapplying every two hours after direct daylight exposure will add up to liberal application be- cause of the extra layers of sunscreen you’re putting on. »» How much to apply: There are many measurements given to help you figure out how much sunscreen to use, but, in reality, how much to use depends completely on the area you’re covering. What we suggest is to smooth a layer of sunscreen over skin that will be exposed to the sun so you can see it, and then gently massage it into skin and let it be absorbed. And, yes, we understand that it may feel a bit unpleasant until it’s absorbed, but the protection it affords is worth this temporary feeling. Don’t forget your chest, arms, and hands (or any other areas of exposed skin)! »» How often to apply: We know this is repetitious, but we’re on a mission to ensure the best skin of your life starts now, and this is the first rule to ensure that happens. Aside from everyday use (no exceptions), a single application each morning of a product rated SPF 30 or greater will keep you protected for a normal workday (indoors), a walk to lunch, and the drive home. If you spend more than three or four hours in direct sunlight during the day, it’s a good idea to reapply your sunscreen—and, yes, that means redoing your makeup, which is why we advise touching up with a pressed powder rated SPF 15 or greater. (Please don’t shoot the messenger, we’re just giving you the facts—but mostly what we want you to do is wear sunscreen, just that step alone is better than nothing at all.) 60 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here »» If you’re sweating (think outdoor exercise or what can happen on a really humid day) or if you wash or sanitize your hands, swim, or get wet, you must reapply your sunscreen regardless of the SPF number on the product. If the sunscreen is labeled “very water resistant,” you get about 80 minutes of protection while perspiring or swimming. If the label states “water-resis- tant,” you get only about 40 minutes of protection if you get wet. But don’t forget, even if you use those types of sunscreens, you’ll be rubbing them off when toweling dry, so in that scenario, be sure to reapply. »» Getting any amount of a tan (except from a self-tanner) is damaging to skin. Skin turning any shade of brown even though you’re wearing a sun- screen is still dangerous for your skin. Putting sunscreen on, even a sun- screen with a very high SPF and then basking in the sun to develop a tan is the absolute opposite of being sun smart. Despite how healthy some peo- ple think getting a tan may look, tanning even a little is a damage response and a very bad thing for skin. It’s also critical to understand that being inside doesn’t mean your skin is protected from sun exposure. If you’re sitting next to a window, you won’t get sunburned because almost all windows protect you from UVB rays, the rays that cause sunburn. However, unless the window has special UVA shield- ing, your skin will NOT be protected from the sun’s UVA rays because these rays absolutely get through windows. This is one factor you must take into consideration when deciding when and how often to reapply your sunscreen. Staying indoors during the day does not protect your skin if you are going to be near windows. When should you apply sunscreen? Every day, as the last step in your skin- care routine before you apply your makeup. The vast majority of medical ex- perts and skin researchers agree: Sunscreen is always, always, the final step in your skincare routine. Any skincare product applied over a sunscreen dilutes the sunscreen, lessening its effectiveness to some degree. Do you need moisturizer AND sunscreen during the day? Typically, no. That’s because the best daytime moisturizers that contain sunscreen are for- mulated with additional skin-beneficial ingredients so your skin is covered for all aspects of skincare. Does sunscreen cause cancer? No, and there’s no research proving other- wise. We’re shocked how some people overlook the huge amount of research showing that regular use of sunscreen actually reduces the risk of skin cancer and without a shred of doubt reduces the risk of early signs of aging. Sun Damage and Sunscreen Questions Answered 61 Bottom line: While understanding sunscreen isn’t necessarily easy, if you remember to liberally apply a broad-spectrum SPF 30 sunscreen daily as the last step in your skincare routine, that is a great start and just doing that will keep your skin younger longer. When we say the best skin of your life starts here, this is how it begins— with daily, diligent sun protection, your skin will look younger and stay that way longer. You’ll also reduce the risk of early signs of aging and even skin cancer. Think about it, isn’t having firmer-looking more resilient, healthier, supple, and more even skin tone something we all desire? That’s what daily use of sunscreen can provide. RECOMMENDED SUNSCREENS FROM PAULA’S CHOICE SKINCARE »» RESIST Super-Light Daily Wrinkle Defense SPF 30 All Skin Types ($32) »» RESIST Youth Extending Daily Fluid SPF 50 Normal to Oily Skin ($32) »» SKIN RECOVERY Daily Moisturizing Lotion SPF 30 Normal to Dry Skin ($29) »» SKIN BALANCING Ultra-Sheer Daily Defense SPF 30 Normal to Oily Skin ($29) »» CALM Redness Relief SPF 30 Moisturizer Normal to Dry Skin ($29) »» CALM Redness Relief SPF 30 Moisturizer for Normal to Oily Skin ($29) »» CLEAR Ultra-Light Daily Fluid SPF 30 for Normal to Oily Skin ($33) C HAPTER 8 Anti-Aging from the Outside In and Inside Out WHY SKIN AGES AND WRINKLES Before you spend another dime on products claiming to get rid of fine lines and firm your skin, it’s important that you know what causes the signs of ag- ing and how skincare products can either help or make matters worse. Merely hoping that the next product you buy will finally be the answer is a gamble for your skin that can waste your time and money. All signs of aging are caused by a variety of factors, some that can be han- dled by skincare products, and others that cannot. The primary factors are as follows: »» Unprotected sun exposure and the damage it causes. We know we’re nag- ging, but facts are facts, and your commitment to this will change your skin like no other skincare step. Repeated unprotected exposure to the deadly rays of the sun, over the short term and long term, is a disaster waiting to happen. This cumulative unprotected exposure and not being sun smart is, well, sun foolish. Sun protection using a product with SPF 30 or greater ab- solutely reduces the risk of early signs of aging and skin cancer. Using sun- screen 365 days a year will not only save your skin, it can also save your life. »» Chronological aging. Every year we get a little older, and each year adds up for skin just as it does for the body. »» Midlife changes impact the texture, resiliency, and suppleness of skin. The most common sign? Skin becomes less dense and doesn’t bounce back when pinched. Enlarged pores can also occur, giving skin an orange-peel texture. »» Facial movement determines what areas begin to show signs of aging first; the parts of your face you use the most develops fine lines sooner and deeper. 64 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here »» Breakdown of the skin’s surface from unprotected sun exposure, environ- mental assault, or from using skincare products that contain harsh ingre- dients. Combined these elements decrease the essential, youthful, healthy, skin-protecting substances of skin including its amount of antioxidants, skin-replenishing ingredients, and skin-restoring ingredients leaving skin vulnerable to internal and external aging influences. Armed with this information, you can get a better handle on what you can realistically expect from skincare products to make the biggest difference in your skin. You’ll also be able to more easily spot cosmetics claims that are be- yond the capability of even the best (or most expensive) skincare products. CAN ANTIWRINKLE PRODUCTS HELP? The answer is unequivocally, yes! Antiwrinkle products absolutely can help, but only if you use the best products for your skin type and skin concerns in a consistent, synergistic skincare routine. For many people, the results can be astounding. As we’ve been saying, achieving such results is never about what any one product or one ingredient (no matter how much it’s hyped) can do. Just like a healthy diet isn’t about eating only one food or one nutrient, skin is far more complicated than any one ingredient or one product can address. There are mandatory ingredients that we’ve been stressing throughout that you need to fight skin aging. As a reminder, we list these ingredients one more time: Topically applied antioxidants, without question, are essential for having the appearance of younger skin, and the more antioxidants included in your skincare products, the better to interrupt external influences on skin. Important reminder: As powerful as antioxidants are, they’re also delicate and will break down in the presence of air. Therefore, they must be protected from exposure to air so they can remain effective in a skincare product. When antioxidants are packaged in a jar, they’re exposed to air the second the jar is opened, causing them to deteriorate and lose their effectiveness. Healthy young skin naturally contains an abundance of skin-replenishing substances that keep skin smooth, retain moisture, helps skin resist environ- ment assault, stay supple and resilient, and lessen chances of redness and skin sensitivity. Because of age and unprotected sun exposure, skin loses its ability to hold onto these substances. Giving skin back what the sun and age have taken away is critical to skin health, having younger-looking skin, diminishing dry skin, calming skin, and on and on. Skincare products that contain ample Anti-Aging from the Outside In and Inside Out 65 amounts of skin-replenishing ingredients are essential to fighting signs of ag- ing. Skin-restoring ingredients are fascinating; they literally work to help skin reorganize, rebalance, rejuvenate, and reestablish itself. It’s an exciting and intriguing area of skincare and these are ingredients your skincare products must contain! THESE ARE THE TYPES OF ANTIWRINKLE PRODUCTS YOU NEED Daytime moisturizer with SPF 30 or greater or a foundation with SPF 30 or greater. Enough said, right? Toner loaded with all the skin-nourishing ingredients mentioned above to replenish your skin quickly after cleansing. AHA or BHA leave-on exfoliant. When these types of non-abrasive exfo- liating products are well-formulated, they gently exfoliate the surface of skin, just as skin did naturally when we were young, providing an almost instanta- neous smoother, softer, more radiant, even-toned, resilient, and less wrinkled appearance by revealing the younger skin hiding beneath. »» BHA and AHAs help create smoother and firmer looking skin. »» BHA and AHAs can greatly diminish dry, flaky, rough, uneven skin. »» BHA can noticeably minimize the size of enlarged pores. »» BHA can diminish clogged pores, white bumps, and large pores. Moisturizer loaded with all the anti-aging ingredients we’ve been talking about. Boosters or serums containing concentrated amounts of specific or a combination of unique ingredients that help you address your specific skin concerns. These exceptional ingredients must be present in higher strengths, in pure forms, or in special delivery systems to have the utmost positive impact on skin. Because of these formulary considerations, these ingredients can’t fit in a traditional moisturizer or serum, which is why we created our boosters. We love serums and boosters, so not surprisingly at Paula’s Choice Skincare we’ve formulated many of them so to be as perfectly honest, as we always strive to be, we are obviously a bit biased, but we assure you for very good scientific reasons. In particular we’d like to point out our five RESIST Boosters because the high concentration of the specific ingredient they contain is intriguing. Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is a very important anti-aging ingredient. High concentration of this vitamin has impressive benefits. Growing amounts of research shows that in higher concentration it can significantly help mini- 66 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here mize pore size, diminish the appearance of wrinkles, and adjust an uneven skin tone. When it is formulated in a light-as-water fluid consistency it can work for all skin types and easily be layered with other products in your core skin care routine. Vitamin C in high concentrations is another supercharged anti-aging in- gredient for all skin types and easily layered with other products and added to any skincare routine. This potent pure concentration of vitamin C has been shown to improve the feel of lost firmness, to brighten and increase radiance, to impressively even skin tone, to improve marks on skin, and to smooth skin texture. Pure blends of concentrated non-fragrant plant oils can have skin-re- plenishing, nourishing, and antioxidant properties for skin. They are a perfect way to soothe skin, provide immediate relief for rough, tight, dry skin on the face or around the eye area, and ease redness and sensitivity. It can be used all over or as a spot solution over dehydrated areas of skin. Hyaluronic acid is an ingredient that is nothing less than fascinating for skin. Hyaluronic acid is a skin-replenishing ingredient found naturally in skin. It is a miracle for reviving dehydrated skin, helping skin to appear plumper and regain bounce, and dramatically improving skin texture. In fact, one gram (0.03 ounces) of hyaluronic acid can hold up to six liters (1 quart) of water! Now that really is mind-blowing. Your skin may never be thirsty again. Retinol is a superstar ingredient and because of this deserves its own section. RETINOL While there are dozens of “heroic” skincare ingredients, retinol stands out from the rest and is worthy of a brief discussion. Suffice it to say, a product containing retinol, preferably a 1% concentration (though other concentra- tions as small as 0.3% have research showing it can have remarkable results as well), is a top-tier anti-aging ingredient. Of course, other brilliant ingredients must be included along with the retinol, but it’s important to understand why retinol is an ingredient deserving of your attention. Retinol is another name for vitamin A and it works as a skin-restoring in- gredient. Over time, it has gained much-deserved fame for what it can do for skin, but along with that fame has come a lot of misleading information and myths that have grown up around it. Because the research shows how helpful retinol can be for anti-aging, we want to clear up some of those myths for you. One of the major myths we’d like to bust is the fear that retinol may be too strong for your skin and cause problems. That is an exaggerated piece of skin- Anti-Aging from the Outside In and Inside Out 67 care nonsense. Skin can be sensitive to just about anything you put on it, from plant extracts to sunscreen ingredients, vitamin C, and on and on. Retinol is no exception; some people may find their skin doesn’t like retinol. So, just like any skincare ingredient or skincare product, even the best of the best, not everyone can use everything. The other myth about retinol is that it exfoliates skin and, therefore, you don’t need an AHA or BHA exfoliant, but that’s not what retinol does for skin. Retinol and AHAs or BHA work very differently to improve skin, but they complement each other when paired in a complete skincare routine. It’s a misconception that retinol works by exfoliating skin, so we understand why this issue has become confusing. Retinol is an antioxidant and an important skin-restoring ingredient that enhances every aspect of helping to turn skin around so it looks healthier, smoother, and more vibrant. Retinol does this by impacting skin on many lev- els, while AHAs and BHA affect only dead surface skin. The surface of skin is where AHAs or BHA step in to help shed unhealthy, dead skin; retinol does not do that. Retinol may cause a flaking reaction for some people, but this side effect (which is often temporary) isn’t the same as exfoliation. Don’t mistake flaking for exfoliation. When healthy, normal exfoliation is taking place, you shouldn’t see it or feel it. If you do, it means you either have to reduce the frequency of use of the retinol product or the frequency of use of the AHA or BHA exfo- liant. WHEN SHOULD YOU BEGIN USING ANTI-AGING PRODUCTS? The answer is now. Think of it this way. It’s common knowledge that do- ing things like eating a balanced diet, exercising, not abusing your body with smoking and excessive alcohol, keeps your body healthier and younger longer. Actually, it’s the overarching lifetime strategy everyone should follow. With that in mind, it doesn’t make sense to wait until you are unfit, not well, or in your 40s, 50s, or 60s to start a healthier diet or lifestyle, right? Just the opposite is true, the sooner you start the more likely your physical well-be- ing will be with you for the long haul. The same is true when it comes to skincare, especially anti-aging skincare! Beginning now to use products loaded with these impressive formulations be- fore you start seeing signs of aging will put you on track for having and keep- ing the beautiful skin you want now and in the future. 68 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here Keep in mind that just like your body never stops benefiting from (gets used to) eating a healthy diet, nor does your skin stop benefiting from skin revitalizing ingredients. Your skin craves and needs generous amounts of the beneficial ingredients we talk about all the time—antioxidants, skin-replen- ishing ingredients, and skin-restoring ingredients—to help it remain healthy. These ingredients continue to work even after the inevitable effects of skin aging start to show up, but without question, sooner is better than later! RECOMMENDED ANTI-AGING PRODUCTS FROM PAULA’S CHOICE SKINCARE FOR NORMAL TO DRY SKIN Cleanser »» RESIST Optimal Results Hydrating Cleanser ($19) Toner »» RESIST Advanced Replenishing Toner ($24) AHA Exfoliants »» RESIST Daily Smoothing Treatment with 5% AHA ($33) »» RESIST Weekly Resurfacing Treatment with 10% AHA ($36) Serum »» RESIST Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum ($38) Eye Cream »» RESIST Anti-Aging Eye Cream ($33) Daytime Moisturizer with SPF »» RESIST Cellular Defense Moisturizer with SPF 25 and Antioxidants ($33) Nighttime Moisturizers »» RESIST Intensive Repair Cream ($33) »» RESIST Barrier Repair Moisturizer ($33) Anti-Aging from the Outside In and Inside Out 69 RECOMMENDED ANTI-AGING PRODUCTS FROM PAULA’S CHOICE SKINCARE FOR NORMAL TO OILY SKIN Cleanser »» RESIST Perfectly Balanced Cleanser ($19) Toner »» RESIST Weightless Advanced Repairing Toner ($24) BHA Exfoliants »» RESIST Daily Pore-Refining Treatment 2% BHA ($33) »» RESIST Weekly Retexturizing Foaming 4% BHA ($36) Serum »» RESIST Ultra-Light Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum ($38) Eye Cream »» RESIST Anti-Aging Eye Cream ($33) Daytime Moisturizer with SPF »» RESIST Youth Extending Daily Hydrating Fluid SPF 50 ($33) Nighttime Moisturizer »» RESIST Anti-Aging Clear Skin Hydrator ($33) RECOMMENDED TARGETED SOLUTIONS AND BOOSTERS FROM PAULA’S CHOICE SKINCARE FOR ALL SKIN TYPES »» CLINICAL 1% Retinol Treatment Lotion ($56) »» RESIST 1% Retinol Booster Fluid ($52) »» RESIST 10% Niacinamide Booster ($42) »» RESIST C15 Super Booster ($49) »» RESIST Hyaluronic Acid Booster ($46) »» RESIST Moisture Renewal Oil Booster ($36) »» RESIST Triple Action Dark Spot Eraser 7% AHA Lotion ($27) »» RESIST Pure Radiance Skin Brightening Treatment ($34) »» RADIANCE Renewal Mask ($36) CHAPTE R 9 The Anti-Aging Diet EATING RIGHT Any discussion about keeping your skin young and rejuvenated must in- clude your diet. Similar to how eating the right kinds of foods keeps your body healthy, a healthy diet can help keep skin looking younger longer and looking more radiant. The research about this is very clear; When you combine a bril- liant skincare routine (including being sun smart) and a skin-friendly diet they add up to achieving the best skin of your life! Eating the right foods and minimizing how much you eat of the foods that trigger aging helps slow signs of aging. Research has clearly demonstrated that the following foods are the worst in terms of promoting skin aging. Really, there is no debate that these foods are skin predators, and we all know we too often choose to ignore it this information. PRO-AGING FOODS »» Sugar, especially refined sugars such as high-fructose corn syrup, but any sugar (including honey and, yes, even agave nectar) causes a cascade of neg- ative results for skin. »» Trans-fat (any oil listed as “partially hydrogenated” qualifies), which in- cludes margarine and most shortenings. »» Processed or cured meats, including bacon, which contains nitrites and nitrates, are not good for your body or your skin. »» Red meat, choose the leanest cuts, avoid grilling with charcoal, and do not cook it until it’s dark brown or black, which increases harmful chemicals from being produced in the body. »» Highly processed foods, which include most of the items on the menu at fast-food restaurants and lots of the pre-packaged meals and snack foods in 72 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here grocery stores, even those in natural or organic grocery stores. »» White flour, which is the source of the simple carbohydrates present in most baked goods, no matter how fresh. »» Wheat flour is just as bad; white flour is simply bleached wheat flour. »» Desserts such as cakes, pastries, and, yes, even that breakfast bran muffin, are often loaded with sugar, and many of them are made from white flour. »» Too much salt in your diet can also leave skin looking the worse for wear, including puffy, tired-looking eyes because it causes water retention. (This is not the kind of water retention that improves skin hydration.) ANTI-AGING GROCERY LIST The next time you’re jotting down your grocery list, be sure to add the fol- lowing anti-aging foods to your list, and de-list the ones above that will make your skin look older and less healthy: »» Green, black, and red teas. »» Deeply colored berries, such as blueberries, blackberries, and raspberries. »» Deeply colored vegetables, especially leafy greens and cruciferous vegeta- bles, such as red cabbage. »» Red, green, yellow, and orange bell peppers, and all types of hot peppers. »» Salmon and other cold-water, oily fish rich in omega-3 fatty acids, and, when possible, choose wild-caught rather than farm-raised. »» Walnuts are considered the superman of nuts, but most nuts have health benefits, so buy the nuts you like the best. Choose raw if available, as too much processing reduces the nutrient value of nuts. »» Plant oils such as olive oil and canola oil. »» Whole grains. »» Spices such as basil, cardamom, cumin, curry, garlic, ginger, oregano, tamarind, and turmeric, but be sure to use them up quickly after opening because spices deteriorate quickly, losing their nutritional punch. »» Flax, sunflower, and pumpkin seeds. An anti-aging diet is one of the more beautiful things you can do for your health and your skin. Routinely eating the right foods can lead to young- er-looking and healthier skin, improving dryness, creating a more radiant complexion, diminishing bumps, and calming skin. This dietary approach, combined with state-of-the-art skincare, really can give you the best skin of your life! C HAPTER 10 Managing Oily Skin WHAT CAUSES OILY SKIN When your skin has a normal balanced amount of oil it does wonderful things for skin—hydration, smoothness, softness, healthy skin flora, and environmental safeguard. However, when it is delivered to skin in copious amounts, the appearance and feel make it as undesirable as it gets in skin- care, and trying to manage it becomes a priority. Unfortunately, it isn’t easy to manage. Oily skin is almost always the result of predetermined changes in the body that typically occur during the teenage years. However, as some of us know all too well, it can happen at any age, especially during midlife changes. Just because you’re not a teenager anymore doesn’t mean you’ve dodged the bullet, oily skin can show up all of a sudden and hold your skin hostage. What is so frustrating about oily skin is that it’s triggered by events taking place inside your body, not on your skin, so it’s extremely difficult to control topically. An especially unwanted aspect of oily skin is that you often end up strug- gling with clogged pores, bumps, enlarged pores, and dull surface skin. Not sure if you have oily skin? It’s recognizable by a few classic character- istics: »» Your face is shiny only an hour or two after cleansing, and usually appears greasy by midday. »» Your makeup seems to “slide” off or disappear shortly after you apply it. »» The shiniest parts of your face have clogged pores and bumps. »» Your pores are visibly enlarged, especially on your nose, chin, and forehead. 74 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here GET SHINE UNDER CONTROL—THE DON’T LIST The first step in caring for oily skin is to take a critical look at your current skincare routine. Take these recommendations to heart as they will be game changers for your skin. Be gentle especially with cleansing. Aggravating your skin makes every- thing worse for oily skin. Soap and bar cleansers aren’t your friends because they can be drying and the complete opposite of being gentle to your skin. Avoid harsh scrubs and cleansing brushes with stiff bristles as they are in some ways even worse than bar cleanser and bar soaps as they cause micro-tears in skin disrupting and harming the skin’s surface. Avoid products that make your skin tingle (such as those containing menthol, mint, eucalyptus, and lemon) or that contain SD or denatured al- cohol. These may feel like they are helping your oily skin or doing something because of the tingling sensation, but they’re actually making matters worse. When your skin tingles, it means it’s being aggravated, and as we said aggra- vating your skin can actually trigger the oil glands to produce more oil. This is a very important fact to keep in mind because lots of products claiming to be good for oily skin, bumps, and clogged pores often contain problematic harsh ingredients. Products that are overly thick and emollient will make oily skin feel oilier because they contain waxy emollient ingredients that are great for dry skin, but someone with oily skin doesn’t need that at all. Steer clear of products that have a thick, heavy, or solid texture, such as solid stick-styled foundations, thick greasy concealers, or rich, emollient moisturizers or balms. All of these are likely to make skin feel oilier and potentially clog pores. Instead, use only liquid, thin light serums, or gel moisturizers or boosters for both skincare and makeup. GET SHINE UNDER CONTROL—THE DO LIST The following essential skincare guidelines for getting oily skin to slow down will help you take as much control of your skin as possible, so you’ll see less oil, smaller pores, and fewer bumps. Cleanse twice daily with a gentle, water-soluble cleanser. Ideally, the cleanser should rinse without leaving a hint of residue or leaving skin tight or dry. It should also be fragrance-free because fragrance, whether natural or synthetic, is always a negative trigger for skin. Use a toner that is completely non-irritating, meaning it is free of alco- hol, witch hazel, and fragrance, but loaded with skin-nourishing ingredients including antioxidants, skin-restoring ingredients, and skin-replenishing in- Managing Oily Skin 75 gredients. Toners that contain these ingredients can help skin feel soft, min- imize oily skin, be more hydrated, diminish enlarged pores, and remove the last traces of makeup, which can lead to clogged pores. Gentle exfoliation with a completely non-abrasive leave-on BHA gel or liquid is ideal for those with oily skin. Oily skin tends to have an extra build- up of dead skin on the surface along with a thickened pore lining. Exfoliating skin’s surface and inside the pore lining is the best way to remove that build- up, shrink clogged pores and bumps, and make skin feel unbelievably smooth- er and that’s what BHA does best. A unique benefit of BHA is that it can also calm skin. Sun protection 365 days a year, rain or shine. Even if you have oily skin, a sunscreen is essential for reducing the risk of early signs of aging, skin cancer, and anything else about your skin you want to improve. If you’ve avoided sun- screens because the ones you’ve tried felt too greasy or too occlusive, or if you were afraid they’d clog pores or cause bumps, we provide product recommen- dations at the end of this chapter that hopefully will change your impression of sunscreens for good. Apply a moisturizer at night, but don’t use a traditional one. Just because you have oily skin doesn’t mean you should forgo giving your skin the high- est quality ingredients to keep your skin healthy, hydrated, renewed, and re- freshed with lessened redness. The way to give your skin these remarkably nourishing ingredients without adding emollients that will feel greasy is to use only extremely lightweight liquids, gels, or weightless serum formula- tions. You’ll get the remarkable benefits these ingredients provide without any of the “weight” traditional moisturizing creams and lotions impart. Use an oil-absorbing product during the day. Even with all our recom- mendations, when you have oily skin, there are simply limitations to what skincare products can do, which means you’ll probably still need to use an oil-absorbing product during the day. These are products that contain ingre- dients such as clay (and it doesn’t have to be a special clay, despite the claims made about miracle versions from volcanoes or rare earth—meaning dirt, sili- ca, which is exceptionally absorbent), various powders, and starches. RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS FROM PAULA’S CHOICE SKINCARE FOR OILY SKIN Cleansers »» SKIN BALANCING Oil-Reducing Cleanser ($18) »» CALM Redness Relief Cleanser Normal to Oily Skin ($18) 76 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here Toners »» SKIN BALANCING Pore-Reducing Toner ($21) »» CALM Redness Relief Toner for Normal to Oily Skin ($21) BHA Exfoliants »» SKIN PERFECTING 2% BHA Liquid ($29) »» SKIN PERFECTING Gel Exfoliant ($29) »» CALM Redness Relief 1% BHA Lotion Exfoliant ($27) Serums »» SKIN BALANCING Super Antioxidant Serum ($34) »» CALM Redness Relief Repairing Serum ($34) Eye Cream »» RESIST Anti-Aging Eye Cream ($33) Daytime Moisturizers with SPF »» SKIN BALANCING Ultra-Sheer Daily Defense Broad Spectrum SPF 30 ($29) »» CALM Redness Relief SPF 30 Mineral Moisturizer for Normal to Oily Skin ($29) Nighttime Moisturizers »» SKIN BALANCING Invisible Finish Moisture Gel ($29) »» CALM Redness Relief Moisturizer for Normal to Oily Skin ($29) Oil-Absorbing Products »» SHINE STOPPER Instant Matte Finish ($23) RECOMMENDED TARGETED SOLUTIONS AND BOOSTERS FROM PAULA’S CHOICE SKINCARE SELECTED FOR NORMAL TO OILY SKIN »» RESIST 1% Retinol Booster Fluid ($52) »» RESIST 10% Niacinamide Booster ($42) »» RESIST C15 Super Booster ($49) »» RESIST Hyaluronic Acid Booster ($46) »» RESIST Triple Action Dark Spot Eraser 2% BHA Gel ($27) »» RESIST Pure Radiance Skin Brightening Treatment ($34) CHAPTER 11 Dry Skin HOW TO CARE FOR DRY SKIN When skin’s surface is healthy and intact, its water content is somewhere between 10% and 30%, so it can be healthy even if it loses some moisture. If the surface of skin is not healthy and intact, this balance is upset, and skin loses water, resulting in dry skin. It turns out that keeping skin’s water content balanced is not actually about adding more “water” to skin; in fact, too much water is not a good thing! Too much moisture, such as from soaking in a bathtub for a long period, is a prob- lem for skin because excess water disrupts skin’s surface, making it difficult to keep the water content normal—the result is dry, flaky, dehydrated, and crepey skin. The primary reason your skin becomes dry is because its surface, for many reasons, loses its ability to maintain normal moisture levels. Health, what you inherit from your parents, and age are significant factors, but what certainly makes it worse or for many can be a primary cause is unprotected sun expo- sure that impairs the surface of skin. Adding to the severity of that problem, or perhaps even causing it, is using skincare products that contain drying, harsh, skin-aggravating ingredients. In terms of unprotected sun exposure, have you ever noticed that the parts of your body that have been protected from the sun (the parts not routinely exposed to daylight) are rarely, if ever, dry? Just look at the inside of your arm or your derrière! That’s because areas with little to no sun damage don’t suffer from the range of problems caused by the cumulative damage of unprotected daily exposure to UV light. 78 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here WHAT NOT TO DO FOR DRY SKIN Anything you do that inhibits your skin’s ability to keep water safely where it belongs either causes dry skin or makes dry skin worse. As always, the first step to improving dry skin is to stop doing things that make it worse, which include the following: »» Bar soaps/cleansers of all kinds (anything in bar form and natural or not) are always more drying than gentle, non-drying water-soluble cleansers. »» Overly drying, water-soluble cleansers that leave skin feeling tight and dry, which must be avoided. »» Products with ingredients that are drying, sensitizing, or cause redness, such as denatured or SD alcohol, peppermint, menthol, mint, citrus, euca- lyptus, and fragrance, including the so-called “essential” oils. »» Excessive exposure to hot water or steam. »» Abrasive scrubs that tear at skin’s surface, disrupting its ability to hold onto water. »» Loofahs or cleansing brushes with stiff bristles because they are abrasive on skin’s surface. »» Unprotected sun exposure. If you’ve gotten this far in the book, you already know why, but this is by far one of the worse things you can do. All of the above-mentioned activities and products disrupt skin’s surface, which in turn leads to water loss and destroys the vital substances in skin that allow it to hold onto just the right amount of moisture. The next step is what you need to do now to keep skin hydrated and moist. HOW TO CARE FOR DRY SKIN Regardless of the root cause of your dry skin, the fundamental need is to help skin achieve and maintain a healthy moisture balance. The primary way to do that is to help put disrupted skin back together as best you can. When skin lacks the essential natural substances it needs to remain intact, the job of great skincare products is to give skin back those substances, in abundance. This is how you do that: »» Wear sunscreen rated SPF 30+ daily, rain or shine, hot or cold weather. Unprotected exposure to the sun slowly, but surely, over time impairs skin’s ability to hold onto moisture or to feel smooth and soft. »» Cleanse your face with a gentle, non-irritating water-soluble cleanser that leaves your skin soft and soothed with no tight or dry feeling what- soever. Dry Skin 79 »» Use moisturizers, serums, gels, lotions, creams, boosters, essences, an- tiwrinkle creams, anti-aging creams, firming creams, or whatever the name is on the label that are filled to the brim with antioxidants, skin-re- storing ingredients, and especially skin-replenishing ingredients that help skin hold onto water. »» Gently exfoliate: Soothingly shedding the build-up of dead surface skin is something your skin can do on its own when it’s young, healthy, and not yet damaged from unprotected sun exposure. When skin no longer exfoli- ates efficiently on its own, it becomes dull, rough, dry, and dehydrated, and the moisturizers you apply won’t be absorbed very well, thus limiting their potential for making a difference. Using a completely non-abrasive, leave- on alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) or beta hydroxy acid (BHA) exfoliant can help skin shed in a more natural, youthful manner to reveal the plumper look- ing skin hiding below. »» For very dry skin, use a blend of pure non-fragrant, nourishing plant oils, such as almond, argan, borage, coconut, evening primrose, jojoba seed, ol- ive, or safflower oils, applied after cleansing, toning, and exfoliating, but before applying your moisturizer. This can make a significant difference. »» Use only non-irritating skincare products. But you already knew that, right? Still, we just had to mention it again! »» Don’t forget your lips: Lips are the least capable of staying smooth and soft, so don’t leave them naked, day or night. During the day, apply and reapply an emollient lipstick or gloss that provides sun protection (an incredibly important anti-aging step for your lips). At night, don’t go to sleep without protecting your lips with an emollient lip balm. These must be completely non-irritating and should not contain fragrance, menthol, camphor, or fra- grant oils because they’ll only make dry lips worse. DOES DRINKING MORE WATER HELP? Can you just drink more water to eliminate dry skin? This is one of those beauty myths that refuses to go away, but here are the facts: Although drink- ing eight glasses of water a day is great for your body, the research doesn’t show that it improves or even lessens dry skin. If you could get rid of dry skin just by drinking more water, wouldn’t it be wonderful? How simple, right? And no one would need to endure this frustrating concern and struggle with searching for the perfect moisturizer or worrying about any of the skincare products they use. Alas, drinking more water will only result in more trips to the bathroom; the water you drink doesn’t go to your skin the way we wish it did to keep it hydrated and diminish dryness. 80 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS FROM PAULA’S CHOICE SKINCARE FOR DRY SKIN The following products are highly recommended for dry to very dry skin, but aren’t necessarily ideal for dry skin that’s also struggling with acne. If you have dry skin and bumps or clogged pores, consider the lighter-weight mois- turizers (both daytime and nighttime) we recommend in the chapters on oily skin and combination skin, and know that you may need to layer the light- er-weight products for extra hydration, rather than apply one rich and emol- lient moisturizer to dry areas. Cleansers »» SKIN RECOVERY Softening Cream Cleanser ($18) »» CALM Redness Relief Cleanser for Normal to Dry Skin ($18) Toners »» SKIN RECOVERY Enriched Calming Toner ($21) »» CALM Redness Relief Toner for Normal to Dry Skin ($21) AHA Exfoliants »» SKIN PERFECTING 8% AHA Gel Exfoliant ($32) »» CALM Redness Relief 1% BHA Lotion Exfoliant ($27) Serums »» SKIN RECOVERY Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum ($34) »» CALM Redness Relief Repairing Serum ($34) Eye Cream »» RESIST Anti-Aging Eye Cream ($33) Daytime Moisturizers with SPF »» SKIN RECOVERY Daily Moisturizing Lotion SPF 30 ($29) »» CALM Redness Relief SPF 30 Mineral Moisturizer ($29) Nighttime Moisturizer »» SKIN RECOVERY Replenishing Moisturizer ($29) Dry Skin 81 RECOMMENDED ANTI-AGING TARGETED SOLUTIONS AND BOOSTERS FROM PAULA’S CHOICE SKINCARE SELECTED FOR NORMAL TO DRY SKIN »» CLINICAL 1% Retinol Treatment Lotion ($56) »» RESIST 10% Niacinamide Booster ($42) »» RESIST C15 Super Booster ($49) »» RESIST Hyaluronic Acid Booster ($46) »» RESIST Moisture Renewal Oil Booster ($36) »» RESIST Triple Action Dark Spot Eraser 7% AHA Lotion ($27) »» RESIST Pure Radiance Skin Brightening Treatment ($34) »» RADIANCE Renewal Mask ($36) CHAPTER 12 Balancing Combination Skin WHAT IS COMBINATION SKIN? Combination skin is simply having oily skin in some areas of your face and dry skin in other areas. So typical there is a mix of oily and dry areas on dif- ferent parts of your face or you have a layer of oily skin on top of dry skin underneath. Whether you have oily areas only around the nose and center of the fore- head and dry areas usually over the cheeks, jaw area, and along the hairline, or you have a layer of oily skin all over your face with dry skin underneath, what you do to lessen those problems is the same. WHAT CAUSES COMBINATION SKIN? A variety of factors can contribute to combination skin, but more often than not it just comes down to the luck of the draw in terms of what cards you were dealt at birth, meaning what you inherited from your parents. However, the types of skincare products you’re using can absolutely make it worse or even cause the problem in the first place. Here’s what you may unknowingly be doing to contribute to this skincare problem. As you might already have suspected, using products that contain harsh or skin-aggravating ingredients will inevitably dry out some areas of your face while stimulating oil production in other parts (especially around the nose) that were already oily in the first place. When you naturally have oily skin all over your face and you’re using skin-aggravating, drying products that will cause the surface of skin to become dry and flaky but there will also be a noticeable layer of oil on top because those kinds of products do not stop your skin from producing oil. 84 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here If you are using the wrong products, you might actually be causing your combination skin. If you use the right products, you probably still will have oily skin, but at least you won’t have dry rough skin underneath. WHAT PRODUCTS TO USE FOR COMBINATION SKIN The key thing to keep in mind with combination skin is there is no one- size-fits solution because it depends on how dry your dry areas are naturally and how much of the dryness is caused by the products you are using. If you have naturally dry skin on areas of your face, the oil-absorbing or matte-finish ingredients that work great on oily areas will be a trouble-maker on the dry areas. This probably means you will need to apply a more emollient moisturizer over the dry areas, but if you apply that all over your face the oily areas will become oilier so keeping things separate is important. And the same for the products aimed to absorb oil; keep them off the dry areas. The following guidelines may help get you on the right path with options that gently balance skin. Use a gentle, soothing gel-based or pearlescent cleanser that can also be mildly foaming. Regardless of the texture, it must be gentle and leave skin soft without feeling tight or dry. Apply a hydrating soothing non-irritating toner filled with a healthy amount of skin-replenishing ingredients and antioxidants. A well-formulat- ed toner really can help nourish dry skin and minimize oiliness at the same time—and it won’t make the dry areas drier or the oily areas oilier! Don’t skip this step! By now, we’re sure you’re tired of us repeating how important it is to use a gentle, non-abrasive, leave-on beta hydroxy acid (BHA, salicylic acid), but there’s no way around it, this is an optimal choice for exfoliating combination skin and significantly, sometimes overnight, improving both concerns. A BHA exfoliant helps skin shed dead skin normally without abrasion (meaning no scrubs or stiff cleansing brushes), unclogs pores, lessens oily skin, and at the same time gently smooths rough dry flaky skin and makes it far less flaky or tight. For combination skin, a gel or weightless fluid or serum-textured BHA exfoliant is best. Sun protection is another gimme. You must use a lightweight sunscreen with SPF 30 or greater that has a soft matte finish. Over the dry areas, you may need to apply a light serum and then apply your sunscreen over it. Use a nighttime moisturizer with a gel, serum, fluid, or even liquid tex- ture that contains all the amazing ingredients we hope you know by heart now: antioxidants, skin-replenishing ingredients, and skin-restoring ingredi- Balancing Combination Skin 85 ents. These are imperative to help calm skin, lessen oil production, and im- prove dry areas. If you have very dry areas, you may need to apply a richer, more emollient moisturizer just to those areas, being sure to blend away from the oil-prone areas. RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS FROM PAULA’S CHOICE SKINCARE FOR COMBINATION SKIN Putting together a skincare routine for combination skin isn’t easy as it takes a mix of different textured products. From Paula’s Choice Skincare we think this is the most logical place for you to start. You may have to tweak a bit with a serum or booster that is a bit more emollient over dry areas, but experimenting with the best products is really the hallmark of getting the best skin of your life. Cleanser »» RESIST Perfectly Balanced Cleanser ($18) Toner »» RESIST Weightless Advanced Repairing Toner ($23) BHA Exfoliant »» SKIN PERFECTING 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant Gel (gel texture; $28) Serum »» RESIST Ultra-Light Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum ($36) Booster »» RESIST Hyaluronic Acid Booster ($45) Eye Cream »» RESIST Anti-Aging Eye Cream ($33) Daytime Moisturizer with SPF »» RESIST Youth-Extending Daily Fluid SPF 50 ($32) Nighttime Moisturizer »» RESIST Anti-Aging Clear Skin Hydrator ($32) 86 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here RECOMMENDED ANTI-AGING TARGETED SOLUTIONS AND BOOSTERS FROM PAULA’S CHOICE SKINCARE SELECTED FOR COMBINATION SKIN »» CLINICAL 1% Retinol Treatment Lotion ($56) »» RESIST 1% Retinol Booster Fluid ($52) »» RESIST 10% Niacinamide Booster ($42) »» RESIST C15 Super Booster ($49) »» RESIST Hyaluronic Acid Booster ($46) »» RESIST Moisture Renewal Oil Booster ($36) »» RESIST Triple Action Dark Spot Eraser 2% BHA Lotion ($27) »» RESIST Pure Radiance Skin Brightening Treatment ($34) C HAPTER 13 Avoid Acne and Breakouts (No Matter Your Age) UNDERSTANDING ACNE Acne is one of the most troublesome and common skincare problems for people around the world, and emotionally one of the most embarrassing. Al- though most often associated with teenagers and the onset of puberty, you can suffer from acne at any age. Even if you never had it when you were younger, acne can still occur. Most of us are familiar with acne to some degree—even if we don’t know the specifics, we all know what it looks like. Acne’s textbook definition de- scribes it as a skin disorder occurring when hair follicles (every pore on your face is actually part of a follicle) become plugged with dead skin and oil, caus- ing skin to become aggravated, and finally erupting in a swollen angry bump centered with a white fluid-filled sac. In short, you have a pimple (a word we just hate). That mixture of oil and dead skin creates an environment that is ripe for blemishes. What we want to impress on you, first and foremost, is that you do not want to make those angry blemishes more angry! So, even though it might seem counterintuitive, what your skin needs is gentle soothing products and to be handled tenderly—that is fundamental to getting acne under control. SKINCARE FOR ACNE IS THE SAME FOR EVERYONE Regardless of your age, gender, nationality, where you live, skin color, or race, research has made it abundantly clear that the steps we describe below are what it takes to tackle the problem and get it under control. 88 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here THE BASICS Keep skin clean, but don’t overdo it. Clean skin is a good thing because cleansing removes excess oil, debris, impurities, and makeup that contribute to clogged pores and create the conditions for acne to occur. But, over-cleans- ing, being too rough, or cleansing too often, especially if you use harsh cleans- ers, scrubs, or cleansing brushes with stiff bristles will aggravate skin and make it redder than it already is—that is not a good thing. GENTLE cleansing is an absolute must. The best way to go is to cleanse your face twice a day with an effective, but skin-softening, water-soluble cleanser. You also must stay away from bar soaps and bar cleansers—they can leave a film or residue on your skin, which in turn can clog pores and diminish the effectiveness of any anti-acne products you apply after cleansing. Bar soaps and bar cleansers also are drying, and that doesn’t promote healthy skin, and healthy skin is always the goal when combating acne—compromised skin just can’t do that very well, if at all. Avoid skincare and makeup products that contain harsh, skin-aggravat- ing ingredients. Skin-aggravating products upset skin, increase redness, and, therefore, make acne worse. Unfortunately, many skincare and makeup prod- ucts, including many claiming to be for acne-prone skin, contain problematic harsh, drying ingredients. Drying out your skin will not help get rid of acne. Also on the “do not use” list are mint (including menthol and peppermint), witch hazel, eucalyptus, or citrus ingredients, as they will wreak havoc on your skin, too. Amazingly, these ingredients show up in a shocking number of products claiming to help acne! Be sure to remove all your makeup before going to bed. Makeup does not cause acne, but falling asleep with your makeup on, or just not getting it all off before bed, will aggravate your skin and inhibit skin from exfoliating, which will lead to blocked pores, which in turn exacerbates the conditions (dryness, rough skin, aggravated skin, and oil) that promote acne. If you need to remove heavy makeup or just want to feel extra clean (with- out harsh ingredients or scrubs), you can use a cleansing brush with soft bris- tles (and we mean really soft) or a soft washcloth with a gentle water-soluble cleanser. Please do not use abrasive scrubs or cleansing brushes with stiff bris- tles because they tear skin and weaken it, which is never ever a good thing. You need intact skin to help lessen breakouts. After rinsing your face, follow with a gentle toner that contains a healthy supply of antioxidants and skin-replenishing ingredients. This will not only Avoid Acne and Breakouts (No Matter Your Age) 89 calm, nourish, and recharge your skin, it will also remove any last traces of pore-clogging makeup. Avoid overly emollient or thick moisturizers. These types of products not only make oily skin feel oilier and greasy, but also can block pores. No matter how you look at it, these products usually are a problem for someone strug- gling with breakouts and oily skin. Be careful to keep haircare products off your skin, especially emollient conditioners and heavy styling products. If your hairstyle is such that your hair touches your forehead or the sides of your face, traces of the products you use to style your hair will also end up on your skin. Therefore, if you have acne- prone skin, avoid using thick, waxy hairstyling products along the hairline be- cause they can clog pores and lead to breakouts. Conditioners can also trigger acne breakouts, so also avoid getting these on your face. If you have neck or back acne, try rinsing the conditioner from your hair in a way that prevents the conditioner from coming into contact with those areas. Protect yourself from the sun. You might have heard that sunlight can “clear up” acne breakouts, but there is no research indicating that sun expo- sure (meaning getting a tan or, even worse, a sunburn) clears up acne. If any- thing, unprotected sun exposure weakens skin and doesn’t let it renew itself to reveal healthy skin, and, as we’ve said time and time again, having healthy skin is always the goal for any skin concern. ACNE SOLUTIONS THAT WORK When you’re battling acne breakouts, the key is to look for ingredients that are proven to specifically combat acne breakouts effectively, quickly, and gen- tly. The two absolute best over-the-counter (OTC) acne-fighting ingredients (often referred to as the gold standard ingredients), as demonstrated by a vast amount of medical and scientific research, are salicylic acid (also known as BHA) and benzoyl peroxide. In fact, these two ingredients are so beneficial in combating acne they are considered by experts around the world as the best options to try first if you have mild to moderate acne. Salicylic Acid: Also known as BHA, it’s an amazing multifunctional ingre- dient that deals with acne in several ways. It not only calms redness, but also gently exfoliates both on the surface to remove the build-up of dead surface skin, as well as inside the pore where the pore lining can get thick, and so also benefits from exfoliation. For salicylic acid (BHA) formulas to be effective, they must have a concen- tration of at least 0.5%, although for most with acne prone skin a 2% concen- 90 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here tration will be far more effective. Also, the formula’s pH is critical, with a pH of 3–4 being optimal. Sadly, many salicylic acid products for acne don’t meet these criteria—the concentration is too low and/or the pH is too high—so they end up not being very effective, if at all, on acne and clogged pores. Of course, those that do meet the criteria are ideal options. In addition, the salicylic acid (BHA) product you select much be completely non-irritating so that the skin stays calm and the blemishes don’t look angrier than they already are. Fortunately, well-formulated salicylic acid products do exist, from Paula’s Choice Skincare as well as from other brands. Benzoyl peroxide is considered the most effective over-the-counter choice for acne. In concentrations of 2.5% to 5% benzoyl peroxide can go to work fast to get acne under control. There are benzoyl peroxide products with a 10% concentration, but they are considered harsh on skin, and, therefore, are not the best option, especially not the concentration you want to start with. We recommend starting with a 2.5% concentration and waiting a few weeks to see how your skin responds; then, if you’re not seeing the results you want, move to a 5% concentration. If your acne doesn’t respond to a 5% concentration of benzoyl peroxide, you can try the 10% concentration, but monitor your skin carefully to make sure you’re not being too harsh. If you’ve been using the type of gentle skincare routine that we emphati- cally recommend, along with a BHA exfoliant and a benzoyl peroxide–based product for two to three months, and you still aren’t seeing results, the next step is to talk to your physician about prescription options. Unfortunately, there are some stubborn forms of acne that just do not respond to BHA and benzoyl peroxide products. Important note: When struggling with acne, you must be consistent with your anti-acne skincare routine. For many, breakouts are an ongoing problem, not a “one and done”–type deal. Ongoing, consistent use of anti-acne solu- tions and an overall healthy skincare routine are required to maintain results and keep new breakouts from forming. RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS FROM PAULA’S CHOICE SKINCARE FOR ACNE »» CLEAR Regular Strength kit ($52) »» CLEAR Extra Strength kit ($52) »» CLEAR Acne Body Spray ($25) CHAPTER 14 How to Fade Post-Acne Marks HOW DO POST-ACNE MARKS HAPPEN? At its core, acne is a skin-aggravating condition, and, believe it or not, as your skin responds to minimize what is taking place (your skin doesn’t like that blemish any more than you do), the response of swelling and the result- ing pimple, just ends up making a mess of things and often results in what is known as post-acne marks. When a breakout occurs, it can leave behind pink-to-red or tan-to-brown marks that linger (and linger) long after the blemish goes away. If you have a fair to medium skin tone, you’re more likely to see pink-to-red post-acne marks. Those with medium to very dark skin tones will see tan-to- dark brown marks dotting skin’s surface. Post-acne marks, no matter their color or size, are a leftover reminder of the battle your skin waged against a breakout. And they do seem to linger for- ever, especially for men who are unlikely to cover it up with makeup. Thank- fully, you can help lessen the time they hang around, and, fortunately, these marks are rarely permanent. LESSEN THE RISK OF GETTING POST-ACNE MARKS BEFORE THEY HAPPEN As long as you don’t pick and over-squeeze a blemish you cannot complete- ly control whether or not an acne breakout will leave a red area or some other mark on skin’s surface, but there are some steps you can take to lessen the odds! Here are the best steps you can take; they will make all the difference in the world, in the short term and long term. 92 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here Use gentle, fragrance-free products that contain proven acne-fighting ingredients. Anything you can do to be gentle helps; remember, acne cannot be scrubbed away and it does not occur because skin is dirty. Using a gentle cleanser, a salicylic acid–based exfoliant, and an anti-acne product containing benzoyl peroxide, all formulated to be skin softening and soothing is the core skincare routine you need to combat acne. Following these basic rules can bring about dramatic improvement, including fewer post-acne marks. Again, the key is to be consistent with your anti-acne routine! Don’t pick at your skin! If you are keen on popping that pimple (and we understand this desire!), be sure you do it correctly (no ripping and tearing at the surface). Other than that, leave your skin alone! The harm you do will only make matters worse. Stop tanning, in the sun or in tanning salons. While tanned skin might help minimize the contrast between your skin and the acne breakouts, and make the breakout less obvious, the damage from tanning actually will keep the post-acne marks around even longer. It also harms skin in numerous other ways. Regrettably, these gold standard ingredients don’t work for everyone (though being gentle does). When your battle against acne using salicylic acid (BHA) and benzoyl peroxide isn’t going well, for you then it is absolutely nec- essary you see a dermatologist. Searching for other products or other ingre- dients that will help is just not useful—there is no science to support other options; all you will do is waste your time and your money. Seeing a derma- tologist is the next step, especially if the type of acne you have results in large painful blemishes. Use additional skincare products loaded with skin-restoring ingredi- ents, especially antioxidants and skin-replenishing ingredients. Our SKIN BALANCING Super Antioxidant Concentrate and our RESIST Ultra-Light Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum have robust weightless formulas that contain what your skin needs to be renewed and dynamically healthy! A great way to fight the aftermath of acne! RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS FROM PAULA’S CHOICE SKINCARE FOR POST-ACNE RED MARKS »» CLEAR Regular Strength kit ($52) »» CLEAR Extra Strength kit ($52) »» CLEAR Acne Body Spray ($25) CHAPTER 15 Uneven Skin Tone & Dark Spots WHAT TO DO ABOUT UNEVEN SKIN TONE, DARK BROWN SPOTS? Much about skincare revolves around sun protection, and we frequently emphasize that (as if you haven’t already noticed) but along with sunscreen, the other steps we strongly suggest you try are supported by a great deal of research, which is the only kind of information we use and the only kind we want you to rely on! IMPROVEMENT BEGINS WITH SUNSCREEN! Without question, the first line of defense is sun-smart behavior, which means avoiding or, at the very least, being careful of exposure to daylight (seeking shade, wearing sun glasses, a hat, SPF rated protective clothing) and using a daily sunscreen with SPF 30 or greater (365 days a year, rain or shine), and, reapplying when needed. Diligent use of a sunscreen is the core step of any skincare routine, and even more so for someone with an uneven skin tone. Disappointing but important fact: One day of prolonged unprotected sun exposure can undo months of progress with a skin-brightening or skin-light- ening product. There’s simply no room for compromise: Sun protection, skin lighteners, and skin brighteners are a package deal. When it comes to improv- ing uneven skin tone or dark brown discolorations, one cannot work well without the others. Stated bluntly: If you fail to comply with the commonsense rules of avoid- ing sun exposure and using sunscreen, you cannot blame your skin-bright- ening or skin-lightening product from not working. You must be willing to commit to sunscreen to avoid persistent problems from remaining. 94 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here SKIN-LIGHTENING OPTIONS The most effective skin-lightening products contain hydroquinone. Hy- droquinone has been the active ingredient in over-the-counter skin-lighten- ing products for 50+ years. It has been well-established as the most effective ingredient for potentially fading uneven skin tone, brown or dark spots, and for overall lightening skin. Despite this fact, it is also has a reputation for being a controversial ingredient for skin lightening. As always, we turn to the research to reveal why considering hydroquinone for skin lightening is a logical approach, depending on what you’re trying to achieve. But, if you decide hydroquinone isn’t the right ingredient for you, there are alternatives, with some pretty good research behind them, for skin brightening that you can consider. THE HYDROQUINONE CONTROVERSY Hydroquinone’s controversial reputation stems from when it was banned in South Africa many years ago. As it turns out, the products that contained hy- droquinone were found to also contain mercury and glucocorticoids, among other caustic and illegal contaminants, which probably were the real cause of the negative side effects. Unfortunately, countries in the European Union and eventually many Asian countries followed suit, their decisions based largely on these reports from South Africa. Yet the fact is that when properly formu- lated, hydroquinone is not a harmful ingredient. In contrast, there is abun- dant research showing that hydroquinone is safe and extremely effective. Another issue is the extremely rare association between long-term use of hydroquinone (especially in high concentrations or from adulterated prod- ucts) and exogenous ochronosis. Ochronosis is a reaction where the skin dark- ens in areas where the product was applied. If you are concerned about this risk, you can turn to the alternatives to hydroquinone for skin brightening, which we list below. If you still want to consider using hydroquinone, then be aware there is rare risk of patches of skin darkening and you should stop using it immediately and consult your physician immediately if you see this taking place on your skin. HOW HYDROQUINONE WORKS Hydroquinone helps limit skin’s excessive production of the enzyme re- sponsible for forming brown spots. Over-the-counter hydroquinone products can contain up to 2% concentrations, and the 2% concentration is the most effective OTC amount. By prescription only, you can get 4% concentrations of Uneven Skin Tone & Dark Spots 95 hydroquinone (and sometimes higher), which can be helpful for stubborn or advanced brown or dark spots. The intent for topical hydroquinone is to lighten and potentially complete- ly fade brown, dark spots, and overall discolorations. With daily use, you can reasonably expect a hydroquinone-based skin-lightening product to produce visible results within 2–3 months of consistent use (the fading takes time). Once you reach the level of improvement you were hoping for, it is defi- nitely an option to cut back your frequency of application to maintain results. You cannot, however, cut back on the frequency of applying sunscreen, but you can balance the application of your skin-lightening product. GETTING THE BEST RESULTS FROM HYDROQUINONE It is essential that your hydroquinone product be packaged in opaque pack- aging that also minimizes exposure to air. Hydroquinone is not an air stable ingredient, and will degrade on exposure to air, which means it should not be packaged in a jar. Once the jar is opened, it lets air in, which eventually makes the hydroquinone lose its effectiveness. At Paula’s Choice Skincare we offer two hydroquinone products for skin-lightening, strategically packaged for maximum results from this over- the-counter solution. RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS FROM PAULA’S CHOICE SKINCARE FOR SKIN LIGHTENING »» RESIST Triple-Action Dark Spot Eraser 2% BHA Gel for normal to oily skin ($27) »» RESIST Triple-Action Dark Spot Eraser 7% AHA Lotion for normal to dry skin ($27) SKIN-BRIGHTENING OPTIONS Natural alternatives to hydroquinone include plant extracts, such as Mit- racarpus scaber (madder) extract, Uva ursi (bearberry) extract, Morus bombycis (mulberry), Morus alba (white mulberry), and Broussonetia papyrifera (paper mulberry). These are indeed good options to consider as natural skin-bright- ening ingredients. However, it is interesting to note that all of these extracts, when absorbed into the skin, break down into hydroquinone, which explains why they have a positive effect. 96 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here Another natural alternative is arbutin, which also breaks down into hydro- quinone when absorbed into skin. While these alternatives are certainly viable options, if you are concerned about hydroquinone then this is important for you to know. Vitamin C (especially ascorbic acid) and niacinamide have an impressive amount of research showing them to be effective for significantly improv- ing an uneven skin tone and for brightening and smoothing skin. These are skin-rescuing ingredients for many problems, but especially for uneven skin tone. The above-mentioned ingredients are valid considerations for those who want to avoid hydroquinone. They also can be used with hydroquinone, a combination that could provide even better results! WHAT TO EXPECT FROM USING A SKIN BRIGHTENER The obvious and expected (and desired) result from a skin brightener is to see brighter, more even toned, radiant-looking skin. With once- or twice-dai- ly use of a well-formulated skin brightener (containing the ingredients men- tioned above) along with a sunscreen, you can progressively, over time, get pretty close to the results you want, depending on how advanced the problem was when you started. Just be sure to keep in mind that the brightening won’t happen overnight. While we completely understand the desire to see immediate improvement, the truth is that it took several years of ongoing daylight exposure for the dull- ness and uneven skin tone to show up on the surface. So, it stands to reason you will need patience and persistence as you wait for them to fade. Most of us will need to use a skin-brightening product every day, morning and evening, along with daily application of a great sunscreen rated SPF 30 or greater for at least three months before we see significant results. Some people see results sooner, but maximum improvement and continued maintenance is a commitment to using these products regularly. None of these products are a cure. Uneven Skin Tone & Dark Spots 97 RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS FROM PAULA’S CHOICE SKINCARE FOR DIMINISHING UNEVEN SKIN TONE »» RESIST Pure Radiance Skin Brightening Treatment ($32) »» RESIST 25% Vitamin C Spot Treatment ($55) »» RESIST 10% Niacinamide Booster ($42) »» RESIST C15 Super Booster »» RADIANCE Renewal Mask ($36)