DK - Eyewitness Travel Guide. Top 10 Rome.pdf

E Y E W I T N E S S T R AV E LTOP ROME REID BRAMBLETT & JEFFREY KENNEDY Top 10 Rome The Top 10 of Highlights Everything Welcome to Rome.......................... 5 Moments in Rome’s History........ 46 Exploring Rome ............................. 6 Ancient Sites................................. 48 Rome Highlights .......................... 10 Early Christian Churches ............ 50 Vatican City ................................... 12 Renaissance and Baroque The Pantheon ............................... 18 Churches................................... 52 Roman Forum .............................. 20 Museums and Galleries .............. 54 Galleria Borghese ........................ 24 Artistic Masterpieces ................... 56 The Colosseum and Villas and Palaces ........................ 58 Imperial Fora ............................ 26 Squares and Fountains................ 60 Musei Capitolini............................ 28 Underground Sights .................... 62 Museo Nazionale Romano .......... 34 Writers in Rome........................... 64 Santa Maria del Popolo ............... 38 Off the Beaten Track.................... 66 Villa Giulia..................................... 40 Green Spaces ............................... 68 Ostia Antica................................... 42 Rome for Children ....................... 70 Restaurants.................................. 72 Roman Dishes.............................. 74 Osterias, Trattorias and Pizzerias.................................... 76 Cafés and Gelaterie ..................... 78 Shopping Streets.......................... 80 Rome for Free .............................. 82 Cultural Festivals ......................... 84  CONTENTS Rome Streetsmart Area by Area Around Piazza Navona................. 88 Getting To and Around Rome....162 Around the Pantheon................... 96 Practical Information .................164 Campo de’ Fiori to the Places to Stay .............................170 Capitoline ................................106 The Spanish Steps and General Index .............................178 Villa Borghese ........................114 Acknowledgments .....................188 Ancient Rome.............................124 Phrase Book...............................190 The Esquiline and Lateran ........130 The Quirinal and Via Veneto ......136 Trastevere and Prati ..................142 Beyond the City Walls ................154 The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked annually. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any Within each Top 10 list in this book, no hierarchy material on third party websites, and cannot of quality or popularity is implied. All 10 are, in guarantee that any website address in this the editor’s opinion, of roughly equal merit. book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and Front cover and spine Ruins in the Roman suggestions of our readers very highly. Forum Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Back cover The Spanish Steps Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, Title page Trevi Fountain London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain, or email [email protected]  Top 10 Rome ❮❮ 5 Welcome to Rome Eternal city. Exuberant feast for the eyes, soul and stomach. Vespas parked by Baroque portals. Evocative ruins stalked by feral cats. Valentino models and Raphael madonnas. Strong espresso and delectable gelato. Who could argue with visitors, artists and pilgrims, flocking here since antiquity? With Eyewitness Top 10 Rome, it’s yours to experience. Once the most powerful city in the world, Rome has been 2,800 years in the making. Ancient Roman columns are embedded in Renaissance palazzo walls, Egyptian obelisks recycled in Baroque fountains, Christian churches built over pagan temples. Experience it purposefully by exploring the Forum or the Vatican, or sample it casually while pausing under the Pantheon’s massive portico (providing shade since AD 125) or going for a spin around Bernini’s fountains on Piazza Navona, once Emperor Domitian’s racetrack. Despite its heritage, Rome feels nothing like a dusty museum, mostly thanks to its flamboyant citizens who live much of their life outdoors in cafés and piazzas, negotiating cobbled alleyways, going for their passeggiata and always intent on fare la bella figura – that very Italian concept of looking fabulous and making an impression. Whether you are coming for a weekend or a week, our Top 10 guide is organized to show you the best of everything that Rome has to offer: grand sights like the Sistine Chapel and Colosseum; tiny piazzas and views you will never forget; stupendous works by Michelangelo and Caravaggio hidden away in churches; the best spots for pizza al taglio and hearty Roman cuisine. The guide gives you useful tips, from seeking out what’s free to avoiding the crowds, and 11 easy-to-follow itineraries, designed to tie together a clutch of sights in a short space of time. Add inspiring photography and detailed maps and you’ve got the essential pocket-sized travel companion. Grab the guide, down a caffè at the neighbourhood bar and step out in style. Enjoy the book and enjoy Rome. Clockwise from top: Musei Capitolini, Fountain of Neptune (Piazza Navona), Spanish Steps, MAXXI, mosaic at Museo Nazionale Romano, Colosseum, Sistine Chapel fresco  6 ❯❯ Top 10 Rome Exploring Rome 0 metres 0 metres 800800 0 yards 0 yards 800800 Rome is packed with magnificent piazzas, TRAM TRAM beautiful palazzi, ancient monuments and churches. There is a lot to see and do, and to help you make the most of your visit here are some ideas for a two- and four-day Roman holiday. Bear Vatican Vatican Museums Museums in mind that you can save time by St Peter’s St Peter’s reserving tickets beforehand, and that advance booking is obligatory A Piazza Piazza at Galleria Borghese. Navona Navona Key Campo de’ de’ Campo FioriFiori Two-day itinerary Four-day itinerary St Peter’s Basilica towers magnificently over Rome and is not only a beautiful church, but is also packed with works of art by the great masters. AFTERNOON Two Days in Rome Spend some time at the lovely Villa Borghese park (see p117) followed by Day 1 a visit to the Bernini sculptures at MORNING Galleria Borghese (see pp24–5) and See the Colosseum (see pp26–7), the Etruscan finds at Villa Giulia (see then walk past the Roman Forum pp40–41). Walk back through the (see pp20–21) and Imperial Fora (see park to Piazza del Popolo (see p116) pp26–7) to the virtually-recreated to visit Santa Maria del Popolo (see villa of a patrician family at Palazzo pp38–9), before ending the day at Valentini (see p49). Visit Musei Piazza di Spagna (see p115). Capitolini (see pp28–31), and don’t miss the bird’s-eye view of the Forum. AFTERNOON Four Days in Rome Stroll through the centro storico to Piazza Navona (see p60) and the Day 1 Pantheon (see pp18–19) for atmos- MORNING phere, ice cream and window shop- Begin with the Pantheon (see pp18– ping. Cross the Tiber by Ponte Sisto 19), then wander over to Piazza to lively Trastevere for a drink. Navona (see p60), stopping to admire Caravaggio’s works in San Luigi dei Day 2 Francesi (see p89) and Sant’Agostino MORNING (see p90). Marvel at the Bernini foun- Get up early to see St Peter’s (see tains and street performers, then pp12–17) without the crowds when it browse the shops around Navona. opens at 7am – an unforgettable AFTERNOON experience. Then visit the Vatican Head to the fantastic Museo Museums (see p54), preferably Nazionale Romano’s Palazzo having booked tickets in advance. Massimo alle Terme (see pp34–7),  Exploring Rome ❮❮ 7 GNAM GNAM VillaVilla Galleria Galleria Giulia Giulia Borghese Borghese Vi lVi l al l a Flaminio Flaminio Borgh Borgh eseese station station Santa Maria Santa del del Maria Popolo Popolo Piazza del del Piazza Popolo Popolo ME ME Te v e r e Te v e r e Piazza di Spagna, Piazza di Spagna, TR TR O O Spanish Steps Spanish Steps um e e BUS BUS um Fi Fi Museo Museo Sant’ SanSan Luigi Sant’Francesi dei dei Luigi The Colosseum, built in the 1st Francesi Nazionale Nazionale Agostino Agostino Romano Romano century AD, has served as the Trevi Trevi Fountain Fountain prototype for all stadiums since. Pantheon Palazzo Pantheon Palazzo Valentini Valentini Imperial Imperial Fora Fora Monti Monti Musei Musei Capitolini Capitolini Roman Roman Forum Forum Ponte Ponte Jewish Jewish Sisto Sisto Ghetto Ghetto Colosseum Colosseum Trastevere Trastevere Palatine Palatine HillHill Te e r e re ve v Te The Pantheon, M RO RO Fi m e e um ET ET u M constructed in the Fi Testaccio Testaccio 1st century BC, is the world’s best preserved Porta SanSan Porta Paolo Paolo Piramide Piramide Roman temple. station station station station TRAIN TRAIN FromFrom OstiaOstia Antica Antica 22 km 22 km and the Musei Capitolini (see pp28– 31), stopping for lunch in the which has an entire frescoed room museum’s roof terrace café. from the Villa of Livia. Wind down AFTERNOON with an evening in appealing Monti. See the evocative ruins of the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill (see pp20–3), Day 2 then wander through the Jewish MORNING Ghetto and vibrant Campo de’ Fiori. Explore Ostia Antica (see pp42–3) and return in time for lunch in Testaccio. Day 4 AFTERNOON MORNING Visit Santa Maria del Popolo (see Start early to see St Peter’s and the pp38–9), then explore the Piazza di Vatican (see pp12–17) – the children’s Spagna area (see p115). Climb the audio guide is highly recommended Spanish Steps (see p115) for a great for adults too – then take the tram to city view. Walk back to the centre via the stop outside Galleria Nazionale the Trevi Fountain (see p115). d’Arte Moderna (see p55) for lunch. AFTERNOON Day 3 Visit Villa Giulia (see pp40–41) before MORNING taking a stroll through the park to Explore the Colosseum (see pp26–7), Galleria Borghese (see pp24–5) – then visit Palazzo Valentini (see p49) make sure to book in advance. Top 10 Rome Highlights Theatrical mosaic masks of Comedy and Tragedy, Musei Capitolini Rome Highlights 10 Musei Capitolini 28 Vatican City 12 Museo Nazionale Romano 34 The Pantheon 18 Santa Maria del Popolo 38 Roman Forum 20 Villa Giulia 40 Galleria Borghese 24 Ostia Antica 42 The Colosseum and Imperial Fora 26  10 ❯❯ Top 10 Rome Highlights Rome Highlights The unique appeal of Rome is that it is a 2,800-year-old indoor-outdoor museum, with ancient monuments, art treasures and timeless architecture. With religion at its heart and history in its soul, it dazzles and inspires Vatican City This is home to the Pope, visitors time and time again. VIA VIA the world’s largest church, FLA FLA and the most incredible work MIN MIN IA IA of art ever created – the L. MIC L. MIC Sistine ceiling (see H H pp12–17). ELA ELA NG NG VIA OTTAVIANO VIA OTTAVIANO E LO E LO D P RPATI R ATI ZO ZO R I E NR I E N L. L. DI DI DE DE ELLINI A A C O LC O L IM IM V IA V IA ELLINI PIAZZA DEL DEL PIAZZA RISORGIMENTO RISORGIMENTO VIA VIA CRECRE SENSENZIO ZIO PIAZZA PIAZZA CAVOUR CAVOUR B OBRGO O RGO V. D V. D PIAZZA PIAZZACONCILIA ZIONE CONCILIA ZIONE The Pantheon SANSAN PIETRO PIETRO VI VI P OPNTE ONTE CO CO O The most perfectly VII VII A A L IRAE L IRAI O R I O A U RAEU RS RS GO GO VI V O T T IT T PIAZZA PIAZZA L. G L. G preserved of all ancient E E OR OR NAVONA NAVONA GR GR IA N I AFNi L E N IO IO F i uO L EeN E M AE M A temples, this marvel of N U EN U E I CO Iu VIA VIA C m SE L E IL E I m SE I I e engineering has a giant CAMPOCAMPO DE’ FIORI DE’ FIORI oculus forever open to the TLe D . FA T e D . FA N E S e r e rR E R GEOGLO AL A L. .v R v RN e e sky (see pp18–19). V IN I ES Gianicolo Gianicolo A NA L Roman Forum TRTR A STE ASTVEEV RE R E E At the heart of VER VE TE TE ancient power, there’s now AS AS TR TR 22 km 22 km an evocative emptiness, D. D. E E broken by grand arches, VL VL solitary columns and carved rubble (see pp20–21). Galleria Borghese This stunning palace is filled with Graeco­Roman, Renaissance and Baroque works (see pp24–5). Colosseum and Imperial Fora Imperial Rome built many impressive monuments, including this splen­ did amphitheatre (see pp26–7).  Rome Highlights ❮❮ 11 Musei Capitolini At the ancient centre of religious Rome are some of the world’s greatest masterpieces, from 4th­century BC Greek sculptures to Caravaggio’s revolu­ tionary, even scan­ dalous, paintings (see pp28–31). 0 metres 0 metres 800800 0 yards 0 yards 800800 Museo Villa Villa Nazionale Romano NA NA A Borghese Borghese IA IA NC NC These collections, PI PI V. V. A A housed at five sites, VI VI DE DE R S OR SDO'I TD A 'IL ITAA L I A PIAZZA PIAZZA CO CO feature some of the L L D. POPOLO D. POPOLO M M UR UR O O LUDOVISI LUDOVISI world’s finest ancient T O RT TOOR T O VI VI E E C ACMAM P OP O A A BR BR V. V. M AR M AZRIO Z IO EM EM art, including stunning VE VE TT TT SE SE NE NE frescoes and mosaics PIAZZA PIAZZA TO TO XX XX VIA VIA DI SPAGNA DI SPAGNA A A VI VI and Classical sculp­ ture (see pp34–5). DE DE O N EO N E E E PIAZZA PIAZZA T R ITT R IT A L A L DELLA DELLA L L D. D. I N I N REPUBBLICA REPUBBLICA V IA V IA IR IR U U Q Q T RTER VIE VI D E L D E L E E CO CO AL AL V. V. N N RSO RSO IO IO A AZ AZ N N A A A PIAZZA PIAZZA VI VI DELL’ DELL’ P IGPN IGAN A MONTI MONTI ESQUILINOESQUILINO PIAZZA PIAZZA VENEZIA VENEZIA VIA VIA N ULA N ULA VI VI A A O U RO U R ME ME DE DE C A VC A V RE RE IF IF RU RU O R O R V IA V IA A A A NEG ANG LOE LO I IM I IM V. V. LA LA PE PE NA NA L . DLE.I D RI RI C EE I C E AL AL NC NC I I VIA VIA I I L A B LI A B I C A NC A N A A PIAZZA PIAZZA D. D. E RE PIAZZA PIAZZAPAL PAL AT ATINE I NE COLOSSEO BOCCA BOCCA D. D. COLOSSEO VERITÀ VERITÀ VI VI Santa Maria V IA O R IO O R IO G R EG D I S. G R EG D I S. A A DE DE I I CE CE del Popolo V IA RC RC HI HI Built over emperors’ tombs, Villa Giulia this church offers This elegant 16th­ a rich display of century villa is home to Renaissance and the magnificent national Baroque art, including collection of Etruscan masterpieces by antiquities (see pp40–41). Bernini, Raphael and Caravaggio (see pp38–9). Ostia Antica Extending over several square kilometres, the remarkable ruins of ancient Rome’s main port city hold many surprises and convey a powerful sense of everyday Imperial life (see pp42–3).  12 ❯❯ Top 10 Rome Highlights Vatican City The Vatican is the world’s smallest nation, covering just 50 ha (120 acres), and is a theocracy of just over 550 citizens, headed by the Pope, but its sightseeing complex is beyond compare. Within its wall are the ornate St Peter’s Basilica, the astonishing Sistine Chapel, apartments frescoed by Fra’ Angelico, Raphael and Pinturicchio, and some 10 museums. The latter include collections of Egyptian, Greek, Etruscan and Roman antiquities; Paleochristian, Renaissance and modern art; and a world-class ethnographic collection. Sistine Chapel Michelangelo’s 3 ceiling (right) is one of the most spectacular works of art in the world (see pp14–15). 4 Etruscan Museum Finds from the Regolini-Galassi tomb of a noble woman (7th century BC) are the highlights, including a bronze bed and gold and 6 Raphael’s Transfiguration amber jewellery (left). Raphael was labouring on this gargantuan master- 1 Raphael Rooms Raphael decorated 5 Chapel of Nicholas V piece (1517–20) when he died at 37, leaving stu- Julius II’s rooms with The Vatican’s hidden dents to finish the base. frescoes that included the gem is this closet- It shows Christ School of Athens, a con- sized chapel appearing to the vention of ancient philoso- colourfully Apostles in phers bearing portraits of frescoed divine glory. Renaissance artists such (1447–50) with as Leonardo da Vinci as early martyrs by bearded Plato in the centre. Fra’ Angelico. 2 Pio Clementino Museum This museum has several famous Classical sculptures, including the con- torted, Hellenistic Laocoön (right), found in an Esquiline vineyard – Michelangelo saw the unearthing. There are also the Apollo Belvedere and Belvedere Torso, both huge influences on Renaissance artists.  Vatican City ❮❮ 13 Plan of the Vatican City 7 Egyptian Museum 6 The collection consists mostly of 7 sculpture brought from Egypt for tem­ ples and private villas 8 and gardens. There are also decorated 4 mummy cases (below), mummies and finds 3 1 2 from a tomb that 0 5 9 include a nit­comb. 8 Caravaggio’s Deposition 0 Borgia Apartments Caravaggio’s chiaroscuro Borgia pope Alexander VI technique accentuates a had these beautiful diagonal composition rooms frescoed by (1604) filled with peasant Pinturicchio (Raphael figures and grisly realism. was once his junior collaborator) between 9 Leonardo da Vinci’s St Jerome Sketchy and unfinished – Leonardo was often 1492 and 1495. The walls are now hung with lesser a distracted genius – this 1482 painting is never­ pieces from the Modern theless an anatomical masterpiece. Art collection. NEED TO KNOW San Pietro • 06 6988 3731 Wednesday mornings. MAP B2 • www.vatican.va Open 7am–7pm daily Book free tickets in (until 6:30pm Oct–Mar) advance (Prefecture of Museums and Sistine the Papal Household, Chapel: Viale Vaticano 100 Adm: free (basilica); €6 fax 06 6988 5863). •06 6988 3145 (treasury), €5 (dome via Open 9am–6pm Mon–Sat steps), €7 (dome via lift) Museum Guide (last admission 4pm), The Vatican Museums (a Within the museums • 15-minute walk from St 9am–2pm last Sun of complex, take a break month (free); closed 1, 6 Peter’s) consist of 10 collec- at the cafeteria (with a tions, the Sistine Chapel Jan, 11 Feb, 19 Mar, Easter,terrace in the Cortile della Easter Mon, 1 May, 29 Jun, and the Papal Apartments. Pigna) or the pizzeria in To see highlights only, first 15 Aug, 1 Nov, 25, 26 Dec the gardens near the visit the Pinacoteca, to the Adm: €16 (€8 ISIC under 26, Pavilion of Carriages. right of the entrance turn- under 18s) • When in town, the Pope stile. The Sistine and other St Peter’s Basilica: Piazza gives a mass audience on collections are to the left.  14 ❯❯ Top 10 Rome Highlights Sistine Chapel Works of Art Detail from Michelangelo’s fresco The Creation of Adam 1 Adam and Eve God imparts the spark of life 5 Sibyls and Prophets Hebrew prophets, including to Adam in one of western art’s best Jonah, mingle with the Sibyls who known scenes, The Creation of Adam, foretold Christ’s coming. then pulls Eve from Adam’s rib. Creation 2 God separates darkness from 6 Old Testament Salvation Scenes and Ancestors of Christ light, water from land and creates Portraits from Jesus’s family tree the Sun and Moon. Michelangelo are above the windows, and bloody veers towards blasphemy by Salvation scenes, including David depicting God’s dirty feet. and Goliath, are on corner spandrels. 3 The Sacrifice, Flood, and Drunkenness of Noah 7 Life of Christ Scenes The chapel’s right wall stars After disassembling his scaffolding Botticelli’s Cleansing of the Leper, and gazing up from floor level, Ghirlandaio’s Calling of Peter and Michelangelo noticed that these Andrew, and Perugino’s Christ Giving three tumultuous scenes were too the Keys to St Peter. minutely drawn. Life of Moses Scenes 4 Left wall highlights include 8 Christ Giving the Keys to St Peter Classical buildings form the Botticelli’s The Trials of Moses and backdrop to this pivotal scene of Signorelli and della Gatta’s Moses transferring power from Christ to Giving his Rod to Joshua. the popes. Each scene is divided into three parts. Plan of the Sistine Chapel 0 9 Botticelli’s of the Rebels Punishment Schismatics question Aaron’s priestly 5 prerogative to burn incense. A 6 2 vengeful Moses opens the earth to swallow them. 4 1 7 0 Last Judgement This vast work depicts figures 9 8 nude, equalized and stripped of their 3 earthly rank. This was considered indecorous and the figures were covered by fig leaves. Saints are identified by their medieval icons.  Vatican City ❮❮ 15 UNDERSTANDING THE SISTINE CHAPEL ART The Sistine Chapel’s frescoes are not merely TOP 10 decorations by some of the greatest artists of PAINTERS OF THE the Renaissance – the images tell a story and SISTINE CHAPEL make a complex theological argument. Pope 1 Michelangelo Sixtus IV commissioned wall frescoes for the (1475–1564) Pope’s Chapel in 1481–83. They were intended 2 Perugino (1450–1523) to underscore papal authority, in question at 3 Sandro Botticelli the time, by drawing a line of power from God (1445–1510) to the pope. In the Life of Moses cycle, Moses’ 4 Domenico and Aaron’s undisputed roles as God’s chosen Ghirlandaio (c.1449–94) representatives are affirmed by the fate of 5 Luca Signorelli those who oppose Aaron – significantly and (c.1450–1523) anachronistically wearing a papal hat – in the 6 Rosselli (1439–1507) Punishment of the Rebels. Directly across from this work, Perugino’s Christ Giving the Keys to 7 Fra Diamante St Peter bridges the Old Testament with the (1430–98) New as Christ hands control of the church to 8 Pinturicchio St Peter – and therefore to his successors, the (1454–1513) popes (who are pictured between the Sistine 9 Piero di Cosimo windows). Michelangelo’s breathtaking frescoes (1462–1521) on the ceiling (1508–12) later added Genesis, 10 Bartolomeo della Redemption and Salvation to the story. Gatta (1448–1502) The Fall and Expulsion from the Garden of Eden, from Michelangelo’s Genesis cycle, shows Adam and Eve being expelled from Eden for eating fruit from the forbidden Tree of Knowledge. The Trials of Moses by Botticelli depicts scenes from the life of the prophet.  16 ❯❯ Top 10 Rome Highlights Features of St Peter’s Basilica 4 mournful, stately and ethereal. It has been protected by glass since 1972, when a man screaming “I am Jesus 9 1 Christ!” attacked it with a hammer, 6 8 damaging the Virgin’s nose and arm. 7 5 2 3 0 Plan of St Peter’s Basilica 1 Dome When Michelangelo designed a dome to span St Peter’s massive transept, he made it 42 m (138 ft) in diameter, in deference to the Pantheon’s 43.3 m (142 ft) dome. You can ride an elevator much of the The magnificent Piazza San Pietro way, but must still navigate by foot the final 330 stairs between the dome’s inner and outer shell to 3 Piazza San Pietro Bernini’s remarkable semi- the 132 m high (435 ft) lantern and elliptical colonnades transformed sweeping vistas across the city. the basilica’s approach into a pair of welcoming arms embracing the 2 Pietà Michelangelo carved this faithful (see p60). Sadly, the full effect of entering the square from a warren statue (see p56) in 1499 at the age of narrow medieval streets was of only 25. It is at once graceful and spoiled when Mussolini razed the neighbourhood to lay down pompous Michelangelo’s Via della Conciliazione. The obelisk Pietà came from Alexandria. 4 Apse Bernini’s exuberantly Baroque stained-glass window (1666) centres on a dove representing the Holy Ghost, surrounded by rays of the sun and a riot of sculptural details. Beneath the window sits the Chair of St Peter (1665), another Bernini concoction; inside is a wood and ivory chair said to be the actual throne of St Peter. Bernini also crafted the multicoloured marble Monument to Urban VIII (1644) to the right, based on Michelangelo’s Medici tombs in Florence. It is of  Vatican City ❮❮ 17 far better artistic quality than the waggish quip: “What even Guglielmo della Porta’s similar the barbarians wouldn’t do, one for Pope Paul III Barberini did.” (1549) to the left. 5 Statue of 7 Treasury Among the St Peter ecclesiastical treasures A holdover from the here is a 6th-century, medieval St Peter’s, this jewel-encrusted bronze cross – 13th-century bronze statue the Crux Vaticana – various by the sculptor Arnolfo di fragments of the medieval basi- Cambio has achieved holy lica including a ciborium by status. The faithful can be Donatello (1432), and Antonio seen lining up to rub (or kiss) Pollaiuolo’s masterful bronze Peter’s well-worn foot slab tomb (1493) for for good luck. Sixtus IV, the pope’s effigy surrounded by 6 Baldacchino Whether you Crux Vaticana or the representations of theological virtues view it as ostentatious Cross of Justin II and liberal arts. or glorious, Bernini’s huge Baroque sculpted canopy above the high altar is at least impressive. 8 Crypt Many of the medieval Its spiralling bronze columns are basilica’s monuments are housed said to have been made from the beneath the basilica’s floor. During revetments (portico ceiling deco- excavations in the 1940s, workers rations) of the Pantheon (see pp18– discovered in the Necropolis the 19), taken by Pope Urban VIII. For his legendary Red Wall behind which desecration of the ancient Roman St Peter was supposedly buried. The temple the Barberini pope and his wall was covered with early medieval family (see p59) were castigated with graffiti invoking the saint, and a box of bones was found behind it. The late Pope John Paul II was buried in the crypt after his death in 2005. 9 Alexander Monument VII’s One of Bernini’s last works (1678) shows figures of Justice, Truth, Chastity and Prudence gazing up at the pontiff seated in the deep shadows of the niche. A skeleton crawls from under the flowing marble drapery to hold aloft an hourglass as a reminder of mortality. 0 Vision of Constantine The most dramatic statue in the basilica, this rearing equestrian figure shows Emperor Constantine at the moment in which he had a vision of the Cross at the Battle of the Milvian Bridge in 312 AD. Victorious, Constantine converted to Christianity and made it the Bernini’s ornate baldacchino official religion of the Empire.  18 ❯❯ Top 10 Rome Highlights The Pantheon When Emperor Phocas donated this pagan temple to Pope Boniface IV in 608, 6 Doors The massive he unwittingly ensured that one of the bronze doors are tech­ nically original, but were marvels of ancient Rome would be so extensively renovated preserved unaltered in its new guise as under Pope Pius IV the Christian church of Santa Maria ad (1653) that they have Martyres. Designed by Emperor Hadrian been practically recast. in AD 118–25, it has been lightly sacked over the ages, yet the airy interior and perfect proportions remain, a wonder of the world even in its own time. 1 Dome Oculus The widest masonry 4 The bold 8.3 m dome in Europe is pre­ (27 ft) wide hole at the cisely as high as it is wide: centre of the massive 43.3 m (142 ft). Its airy, dome (right) provides coffered space, cleverly light and structural shot through with a shaft support: the tension of sunlight from the around its ring helps oculus, is what lends the hold the weight of Pantheon an ethereal air. the dome. 7 Marble Decorations Red porphyry, giallo antico, and other ancient marbles 2 Walls The 6.2 m 5 Portico The triangular grace the interior. More than half the (20 ft) thick walls pediment (above) is sup­ polychrome panels incorporate built­in ported by 16 pink and grey cladding the walls are brick arches to help granite columns, all origi­ original, the rest distribute the weight nal save the three on the careful reproductions, downwards, relieving left (17th­century copies). as is the floor (below). the stress of the heavy roof. 3 Royal Tombs Two of Italy’s kings are honoured by simple tombs. Vittorio Emanuele II (1861–78) unified Italy and became its first king. His son, Umberto I, was assassinated in 1900.  The Pantheon ❮❮ 19 8 Fountain Giacomo della THE FIRST Porta designed this PANTHEON stoop; Leonardo Emperor Augustus’s Sormani carved it in son-in-law, Marcus 1575. The marble Agrippa, built the first basin was replaced Pantheon in 27 BC, by a stone one and replaced in AD 118-125 the Egyptian obelisk by Hadrian’s rotunda. The pediment’s of Rameses II was inscription “M. Agrippa added in 1711 (left). cos tertium fecit” (“M. Agrippa made this”) was Hadrian’s modest way of honouring Agrippa. The pediment also provided the illusion of a smaller temple, making the massive space inside even more of a surprise (the Pantheon was originally raised and you couldn’t see the dome behind). Bernini’s “ass ears”, tiny towers he added to the pediment, were removed in 1883. NEED TO KNOW MAP M3 • Piazza della Rotonda • 06 6830 0230 Open 8:30am–7:30pm Mon–Sat, 9am–6pm Sun (9am–1pm during hols); Mass: 10:30am Sun and 5pm Sat; closed 9 Raphael’s Tomb 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec Free Raphael, darling of the Renaissance art world • There’s a good but dead at 37, rests in gelateria, Cremeria a plain, ancient stone Monteforte (see p102), sarcophagus (right). on the Pantheon’s right Poet Bembo’s Latin flank, and an excellent epitaph says: “Here lies coffee shop, La Tazza Raphael, whom Nature d’Oro, just off the square (see p79). feared would outdo her while alive, but now that • Rather than bemoan he is gone fears she, too, a rainy day in Rome, will die.” Other artists head to the Pantheon buried here include to watch the water fall Baldassare Peruzzi. gracefully though the oculus and spatter on 0 Basilica of Neptune Remains Of the Pantheon’s old neighbour, all that the marble floor and down a drain. Snowfall remains are an elaborate cornice and fluted is even better. columns against the Pantheon’s rear wall.  20 ❯❯ Top 10 Rome Highlights Roman Forum Gazing on the picturesque ruins today, one would hardly guess that the Forum was the symbol of civic pride for 1,000 years. Its beginning, more than 3,000 years ago, was as a cemetery for the village on Palatine Hill. When the marshy land was drained in the 6th century BC, the Forum took on a more central role. It was at its most elegant starting with the reign of Augustus, who is said to have turned the city from brick to marble. 1 Temple of Vesta and House of the Vestal Virgins 3 Arch of Septimius Severus A graceful round temple and its adjacent This well-preserved triumphal arch palace were the centre for one of the (below) celebrates the emperor’s city’s most revered cults. Noble priest- Middle Eastern victories. It was esses tended the sacred flame and erected in AD 203 by his sons, Geta enjoyed the greatest privileges. and Caracalla, then co-emperors. 2 Curia The 3rd-century- AD Senate retains its original polychrome inlaid floor, its risers, where the 300 senators sat in deliberation, and the speaker’s platform. For 2nd-century views of the Forum, examine the large marble reliefs, showing Emperor Trajan’s good works. 4 Temple of Castor and 6 Arch of Titus The oldest extant Pollux arch in Rome was built Three Corinthian columns in AD 81 by Emperor remain of this temple Domitian to honour his (left) to the Dioscuri – brother, Titus, and his twin brothers of Helen of father, Vespasian, for Troy and sons of Jupiter putting down the Jewish and Leda. It marked the Revolt. Reliefs show the spot where they miracu- sacking of Jerusalem’s lously appeared in 499 BC Holy of Holies and sacred to announce a crucial objects, such as a golden Roman victory. menorah, being taken. 5 Basilica of Maxentius and Constantine Three vast, coffered barrel vaults proclaim the Forum’s largest structure, built around AD 315 and used as the legal and financial centre of the Empire.  Roman Forum ❮❮ 21 Original Plan of the Roman Forum IMPERIAL FORA 5 6 2 see page 27 V 3 IA DE I FO 7 RI IM P E R IA 0 LI 9 4 1 8 Temple of Vespasian 7 Until 18th-century excavations, these graceful columns (AD 79) from a temple to the former emperor stood mostly buried beneath centuries of detritus. 8 Temple of Antoninus and Faustina Dedicated by Antoninus Pius in AD 41 to 9 Via Sacra Paved with broad, his deified wife Faustina, this is one of the best flat, black basalt stones, preserved temples (above). With its Baroque-style Rome’s oldest road top-knot, it is also one of the oddest. Note the wound from the Arch of carvings of griffins along the side frieze. Titus through the Forum and up to the Capitoline. Triumphal processions were staged here, but it degenerated into a hang- out for gossips, pick- pockets and other idlers. 0 Temple Saturn of Eight grey-and-red Ionic columns (left) constitute what’s left of this temple (also the state treasury) to the ruler of agriculture and of a mythic “Golden Age.” Saturnalia, cele- brated each December, was very similar to modern-day Christmas. NEED TO KNOW • The only option in the of the whole site, enter MAP Q5 • Via dei Fori immediate area for drinks from one of the high Imperiali • 06 3996 7700 and snacks is one of the points at either end. From mobile refreshment the northwest end, begin Open 1 Nov–15 Feb: vendors. For something on the Capitoline (to the 8:30am–4:30pm daily; 16 more substantial, there right and behind the huge, Feb–15 Mar: 8:30am–5pm are plenty of cafés and white Victor Emmanuel daily; 16–31 Mar: 8:30am– restaurants on Via Cavour. Monument) and take the 5:30pm daily; 1 Apr–31 • In summer, it’s best to stairs down from Largo Aug: 8:30am–7:15pm daily; Romolo e Remo. From the Sep: 8:30am–7pm daily; visit the Forum either southeast end, start at the Oct: 8:30am–6:30pm daily. early or late in the day, to Colosseum (see pp26–7) Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec avoid the intense heat. and climb the small hill Adm: €12 (includes Palatine Forum Guide just to the northwest. Enter & Colosseum; valid for 48 You can access the Forum by the Arch of Titus, which hrs); free for EU citizens from Via Dei Fori Imperiali. is also near the main entry under 18 and over 65 However, for a great view gate to the Palatine.  22 ❯❯ Top 10 Rome Highlights Palatine Hill Features 5 Stadium Possibly a racetrack, or just a large garden, this sunken rectangle formed part of Domitian’s palatial 1st-century abode. 6 Domus Augustana All that remains of the private wing of Emperor Domitian’s imperial extravaganza are the massive sub- structure vaults. 7 Temple of Cybele The orgiastic cult of the Great Mother was the first of the Oriental religions to come to Rome, in 191 BC. Still here is a decapitated statue of the goddess. Priests worshipping Cybele ritually castrated themselves. The ruins of Domus Augustana 8 Farnese Gardens Plants and elegant pavilions 1 Domus Flavia Marked today mainly by the grace part of what was once an extensive pleasure-garden, designed remains of two fountains, this by the noted architect Vignola and imposing edifice was the official built in the 16th century over the wing of a vast emperors’ palace, ruins of Tiberius’s palace. built by Domitian in AD 81. 2 Livia’s House This 1st-century BC structure, now below ground level, formed part of the residence of Augustus and his second wife. Here you can examine a number of mosaic pavements and wall frescoes. 3 Palatine Museum and Antiquarium Pavilions at the Farnese Gardens This former convent houses a wealth of artifacts unearthed here, 9 Cryptoporticus This series of underground including pottery, statuary, ancient corridors, their vaults decorated graffiti and very fine mosaics. You with delicate stucco reliefs, stretches can also study a model of the Iron 130 m (425 ft). It connected the Age Palatine. Palatine to Nero’s fabulous Domus Aurea or Golden House (see p133). 4 Romulus’s Huts Iron-Age 0 Domus Septimius Traces of the three 9th-century BC Severus huts were uncovered in the 1940s. Huge arches and broken walls are Legend says that this tiny village all that remain of this emperor’s was founded by Romulus, who 2nd-century AD extension to the gave Rome its name (see p46). Domus Augustana.  Roman Forum ❮❮ 23 A DAY IN THE LIFE OF A ROMAN HOUSEHOLD Most Romans lived in insulae, TOP 10 apartment buildings of perhaps six ANCIENT ROMAN floors, with the poorest residents BELIEF SYSTEMS occupying the cheaper upper floors. 1 State Religion of An average Roman male citizen Graeco-Roman Gods arose before dawn, arranged his (especially the Capitol toga, and breakfasted on a Triad: Jupiter, Juno, piece of bread. Then out into Minerva) the alleys, reverberating with 2 Household Gods: noise. First, a stop at a public Ancestors and Genii latrine, where he chatted with 3 Cult of Cybele, the neighbours. Next a visit to his Great Mother honoured patron, who paid him 4 Deification of his daily stipend. Lunch might be Emperors, Empresses and a piece of bread dipped in wine or Favourites olive oil, perhaps with a bit of cold 5 Orgiastic Fertility Cults meat. Bathing waited until late 6 Mithraism Roman afternoon, when he met his friends toga 7 Cult of Attis at the public baths. There he lingered 8 Cult of Isis – conversing, exercising, reading, or admiring 9 Cult of Serapis the artwork – until dinnertime. The main meal of the day was taken lying on couches, with 10 Judeo-Christianity his slaves in attendance. Then it was bedtime. Roman matrons, apart from their time at the baths (usually earlier than the men), spent the entire day at home, running the household. Feasts held by wealthy Romans were usually extravagant affairs, served by slaves and eaten lying on couches, sometimes under garden pergolas.  24 ❯❯ Top 10 Rome Highlights Galleria Borghese The Borghese Gallery is one of the world’s greatest small museums. Some of Bernini’s best sculptures and Caravaggio’s paintings sit alongside Classical, Renaissance and Neo- Classical works in a the beautiful frescoed 17th-century villa set in the Villa Borghese park, all of which once belonged to the great art-lover of the early Baroque, Cardinal Scipione Borghese. He patronized the young Bernini and Caravaggio, in the process amassing one of Rome’s richest private collections. Sleeping Hermaphrodite 5 A Roman marble copy (left) of a notorious Greek bronze sculpture mentioned by Pliny. Walk around what appears to be a 1 Bernini’s Apollo and 3 Bernini’s David sleeping woman, to discover the reason Daphne Young Bernini’s David for its notoriety. A climactic moment (1623–4) was the frozen in marble (1622–5). As Apollo is inches from Baroque answer to Michelangelo’s 6 Canova’s Pauline grabbing Daphne, the Renaissance version. Bonaparte pitying gods transform The frowning face is Napoleon’s sister caused her into a laurel. a self-portrait. a scandal with this half- naked portrait (1805–8), lounging like a Classical goddess on a cushion carved of marble. 2 Titian’s Sacred and Profane 4 Bernini’s Rape of Persephone Love Bernini carved this Titian’s allegorical scene masterpiece at the age (1514), painted for a of 23 (1621–2). Muscular wedding, exhorts the Hades throws his head young bride that worldly back with laughter, his love is part of the divine, strong fingers pressing and that sex is an into the maiden’s soft flesh extension of holy as she struggles to break matrimony (above). free of his grasp (right).  Galleria Borghese ❮❮ 25 Raphael’s Deposition 7 Caravaggio’s Self-Portrait as a Sick Bacchus The Borghese’s most famous 8 This early self-portrait (1593) as the wine painting (1507), although neither the god was painted with painstaking detail, gallery’s nor Raphael’s best (below). supposedly when the artist was ill. It The Perugian matriarch Atalanta shows finer brushwork than later works. Baglioni commissioned it to honour her assassinated son (perhaps the Bernini’s Aeneas Key to Floorplan red-shirted pall-bearer). and Anchises 9 First floor Ground floor Titian’s Sacred and Raphael’s Profane Love Deposition 2 8 Caravaggio’s Self-Portrait as a Sick 0 Correggio’s Bacchus Danae Bernini’s Aeneas 7 and Anchises 9 Pietro Bernini was still guiding his 15-year-old son in this 1613 work. The carving is more timid and static than in later works, but the genius is already evident. Correggio’s Danae 5 Sleeping 1 A sensual 0 Hermaphrodite Bernini’s Apollo masterpiece (1531) based and Daphne on Ovid’s Metamorphoses. Canova’s Pauline 6 Bonaparte 4 Cupid pulls back the sheets Bernini’s Rape as Jupiter, the golden of Persephone 3 shower above her head, THE BORGHESE Bernini’s David rains his love over Danae. COLLECTORS Scipione used this 17th-century villa as NEED TO KNOW • There’s a decent café a showplace for a MAP E1 • Villa Borghese, in the museum basement, stupendous antiquities off Via Pinciana • although the Caffè delle collection given to him 06 32810 • www. Arti (06 3265 1236) at the by his uncle, Pope Paul ticketeria.it (for nearby Galleria Nazionale V, to which he added reservations), www. d’Arte Moderna is better, sculptures by the young galleriaborghese.it with a park view. Bernini. When Camillo Open 9am–7pm Tue– •Entrance to the gallery Borghese married Pauline Bonaparte, he Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec is strictly by reservation. donated the bulk of Adm: €11; €6.50 students Make sure you book well the Classical sculpture 18–25; €2 EU citizens ahead of time – entries collection to his brother- under 18 and over 65 and are strictly timed and in-law Napoleon in journalists; prices may tickets often sell out 1809. They now form change during exhibitions; days, even weeks, in the core of the Louvre’s max. viewing time 2 hours advance, especially if antiquities wing in Paris. (mandatory exit after that) an exhibition is on.  26 ❯❯ Top 10 Rome Highlights The Colosseum and Imperial Fora This rich archaeological zone, rudely intruded upon by Mussolini’s Via dei Fori Imperiali, contains some of the most grandiose and noteworthy of Rome’s ancient remains. Dominating the area is the mighty shell of the Colosseum, constructed in AD 72–80 under the Flavian emperors and originally known as the Flavian Amphitheatre. The Comune di Roma is Trajan’s constantly working on excavating the area and Column new discoveries are made every year. 1 Trajan’s Forum and 3 Trajan’s Markets Column The emperor and his Trajan’s Forum left all visionary architect, who beheld it awed by its Apollodorus of splendid nobility. Now Damascus, built this cut off by modern roads, attractive, very modern all that stands out is the looking shopping and magnificent column, office mall (below) in the commemorating in fine early 2nd century AD. graphic detail the There were 150 spaces emperor’s victories in in all, the top floor what is now Romania. utilized by welfare Access to part of it is offices, the lower levels through Trajan’s Market. by shops of all kinds. 5 Colosseum Built by Jewish slaves, this magnificent structure was where the imperial passion for bloody spectacle reached 2 Domus Aurea A result of the mad 4 Mamertine its peak of excess. When Prison Emperor Titus inaugu- emperor Nero’s self- Legend holds that rated the amphitheatre indulgence, this “golden Sts Peter and Paul (above) in AD 80, he house” was the largest, most were imprisoned declared 100 days of sumptuous palace Rome here. Prisoners celebratory games, some ever saw, yet it was for were dropped down involving the massacre of amusement only (see p133). through a hole in the 5,000 wild beasts, such as It covered several acres and floor and the only exit lions. This slaughter-as- had every luxury. Currently was death, often from sport was finally banned closed for restoration. starvation (see p63). in AD 523 (see p48).  The Colosseum and Imperial Fora ❮❮ 27 6 House of the Knights of Rhodes 1 3 6 Original Plan of the Imperial Fora This 12th-century priory was 300 metres 2 owned by the crusading order of PIAZZA DEL the Knights of Rhodes. Inside are VIA DEI FORI IMPE RIALI COLOSSEO the original portico, three shops and the Chapel of St John. ROMAN FORUM 9 see page 21 7 Arch of Constantine 8 40 7 5 This arch marks the victory of the first Christian emperor 8 Forum of Palazzo Julius Caesar 9 Valentini over his rival emperor The first of Rome’s great In 2005 two imperial Maxentius (see p46). Yet Imperial Fora. Caesar’s Roman villas, retaining a it is mostly a pastiche of line, the Julians, traced spa bath, courtyards and pagan elements taken their ancestry back to traces of frescoed walls from several earlier Venus herself, so he and mosaic floors, were monuments – the erected the Temple of found below Palazzo beautiful hunt-scene Venus Genetrix in 46 BC Valentini (see p49). roundels come from and placed there statues a temple dedicated to of himself and his great Emperor Hadrian’s love Cleopatra, the male lover, Antinous. queen of Egypt. 0 Forum of Augustus Julius Caesar’s successor (see p38) made the focus of his forum the Temple of Mars the Avenger (above), identified by the broad staircase and four Corinthian columns. NEED TO KNOW Open 9am–7:30pm daily; • Student guides at the closed 1 Jan, 1 May & 25 Dec Colosseum work for tips Colosseum: MAP R6 • Adm: €11.50; concessions and bring the place to life. Piazza del Colosseo • archeoroma.beniculturali.it €8.50; free for under 6s • Via dei Fori Imperiali is pedestrianised to let Open 8:30am–1 hr before Mamertine Prison: MAP visitors walk around the sunset daily; closed 1 Jan, P5 Clivo Argentario 1 06 • • 6992 4652 (reservations) site undisturbed. 1 May & 25 Dec Adm: €12 (includes the Open 9am–7pm daily (to Area Guide 5pm in winter) Budget 3 hours to see Palatine & Roman Forum); concessions €7.50; free for Adm: €3, €5 tour with audio- everything. Expect to guide; free for under 6s queue for the Colosseum under 18 and Domus Aurea (cur- Trajan’s Markets: • A friendly place for a rently closed). The Forum MAP P4 • Via IV Novembre light meal is Caffè Valorani of Augustus can be viewed • www.mercatiditraiano.it at Largo Corrado Ricci 30. from Via dei Fori Imperiali.  28 ❯❯ Top 10 Rome Highlights Musei Capitolini Ancient Rome’s religious heart, Capitoline Hill now houses a magnificent museum. Take the Cordonata uphill, a theatrical experience planned by Michelangelo in the 16th century. At the top stands a statue of Marcus Aurelius in a star-shaped piazza, which is bordered by twin palaces containing some of Rome’s greatest treasures. The collections in the Palazzo Nuovo (this page) and Palazzo dei Conservatori (overleaf) were established in 1471 with a donation of bronzes by Pope Sixtus IV. 3 Hall of the Emperors The hall contains several portraits of the emperors and empresses of the Imperial Age. Among them is a bust of the brutal ruler Emperor Caracalla from the 3rd-century AD. 4 Resting Satyr Used to adorn an ancient grove or fountain, this Mosaic of the Capitoline 1 Masks 2Venus young mythological creature is a copy of a This floor mosaic of two This fine 1st-century BC 4th-century BC original Greek theatre masks is copy of a Praxiteles by Greek sculptor probably from the 2nd Aphrodite from the 4th Praxiteles. His pointed century AD. The use of century BC shows the ears, panther-skin cape perspective, light and goddess of love risen and flute are attributes shadow is highly skilled, voluptuously from her of the nature god Pan. employing small squares bath, attempting to cover It inspired Nathaniel of marble to create dra- herself, as if reacting to Hawthorne’s novel The matic effects (above). someone’s arrival. Marble Faun (see p64). NEED TO KNOW • The café behind the contains mostly restored MAP N5 • Piazza del Palazzo dei Conservatori ancient sculpture. The Campidoglio • 06 0608 • (Caffè Capitolino) has a finest pieces are on the www.museicapitolini.org terrace with a spectacular upper floor. Then take the panorama of the city. stairs down to the under­ Open 9:30am–7:30pm • Part of the underground pass that leads to the daily; closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec passage between the two Palazzo dei Conservatori museums is the ancient (see pp30–31). The court­ Adm: €11.50 (free for Tabularium, imperial yard displays ancient under 6s); €15 during Rome’s Hall of Records, marble fragments. The major exhibitions which offers an unusual next floor up has 16th­ and The Capitolini Card costs view of the Roman Forum. 17th­century decorations and Classical statuary. On €12.50 and is valid for 7 Museum Guide the top floor are paintings days. The card also gives admission to Centrale The Palazzo Nuovo, on the from the Renaissance and Montemartini (see p156). left as you enter the piazza, Baroque periods.  Musei Capitolini ❮❮ 29 Marforio This hirsute reclining giant 5 (right) was originally a river god, and is believed to have come from the Forum of Augustus (see p27). A Renaissance sculptor added the attributes of the god Ocean and placed him here, as overseer of this courtyard fountain. Resting Satyr Cupid and Psyche 4 8 7 Dying Gaul Mosaic of the Masks 2 Capitoline 1 Venus Hall of the Emperors 3 6 Mosaic of the Doves Once the centrepiece of a floor decoration in Mosaic Hadrian’s Villa (see p158), of the 6 this jewel-like composition Doves (above) uses tiny marble and glass tesserae (chips) to achieve a sense of texture and volume. 9 Hall of the Drunken Old 0 Philosophers Woman Key to Floorplan First floor Ground floor 7 Dying Gaul 5 Marforio The collection’s most renowned piece conveys great pathos. It 9 Hall of the Philosophers is probably a 1st-century This room is filled with AD Roman copy of a Roman copies of ideal- Hellenistic bronze from ized Greek portrait busts the 3rd century BC. of the greatest Hellenic poets and thinkers, 8 Cupid Psyche and including the blind epic poet Homer. The Roman god of love embraces the personifi- cation of the soul; here, 0 Drunken Woman Old the lovers are eternally This copy of a Hellenistic united. This Roman copy original dating from the of a Hellenistic original 3rd-century BC is from has inspired a great a series of sculptures, many sentimental which represent the variations (left). wages of vice.  30 ❯❯ Top 10 Rome Highlights Palazzo dei Conservatori Exhibits matter, the head recalls more archaic models. The boy’s unusual and graceful pose inspired many works during the Renaissance. 3 Caravaggio’s the Baptist St John Shocking in its sensuality, the boy’s erotic pose, his arm around the ram, created an iconographic revolution when it was unveiled around 1600. Masterful chiaroscuro brought the holy image even more down to earth. 4 Bronze She-Wolf The most ancient symbol of Head, Colossal Statue of Constantine Rome, from the 5th century BC, of Etruscan or Greek workmanship. 1 Colossal Statue of Constantine Fragments The she-wolf stands guard, at once a protectress and a nurturer, as the Found in the ruins of the Basilica of twins Romulus and Remus (see p46) Maxentius and Constantine, these feed on her milk. This was also surreal outsized body parts (c.AD part of the 1471 donation of Pope 313–24) formed the unclothed Sixtus IV. segments of an overwhelming seated effigy of the first Christian emperor, recognizable by his protuberant eyes. The rest of the sculpture was made of carved wood dressed in sheets of bronze. 2 Lo Spinario One of the precious bronzes that comprised Sixtus IV’s donation to the people of Rome, this charming sculpture dates from the 1st century Bronze statue of the Roman She-Wolf BC. Hellenistic in its everyday subject Palazzo dei Conservatori Floorplan 5 Guercino’s Burial of St Petronilla 5 The influence of Caravaggio is clearly 3 evident in this huge altarpiece, 6 executed for St Peter’s Basilica 8 between 1621 and 1623. Powerful 7 effects of light and dark combined 0 with pronounced musculature and 9 individuality of the figures bring the 2 work directly into the viewer’s 4 physical world. 1 Key to Floorplan Second floor 6 Caravaggio’s Gypsy Fortune-Teller First floor An earlier work by Caravaggio, but Ground floor just as revolutionary as his St John  Musei Capitolini ❮❮ 31 Pietro da Cortona’s Baroque artwork Rape of the Sabines the Baptist. This subject is taken from Roman history: the new city had been everyday street life in late 16th-century founded but the population lacked Rome, which the painter knew women, so they stole those of the intimately. Notice that the gypsy is neighbouring Sabine tribe (see p46). slyly slipping the ring from the unsuspecting young dandy’s finger. 9 Bust of Commodus as Hercules 7 Bust of Lucius Junius Brutus The 2nd-century emperor, who loved to fight wild animals in the Dating from between the 4th and 3rd Colosseum, had himself represented centuries BC, this bronze bust is as the demigod Hercules, to promote possibly the rarest object in his own divinity. The club held in his the museum. Its identification right hand, the lion’s mantle and the as the first Roman consul is apples of the Hesperides in uncertain, because it his left hand are all also resembles Greek symbols of the labours models of poets and of Hercules. philosophers. Its intense, inlaid glass eyes make it one of the most 0 Equestrian Statue of gripping portraits. Marcus Aurelius A copy of this Pietro da 8 Cortona’s 2nd-century AD bronze masterpiece Rape of the stands in the centre Sabines of the Capitoline Baroque painting star; the larger- is said to have than-life original begun with this is displayed in a work (c.1630), glassed-in where symmetry courtyard is abandoned and within the Palazzo all is twisting, dei Conservatori. dynamic move- ment. It shows an Equestrian statue of early episode in Marcus Aurelius  34 ❯❯ Top 10 Rome Highlights Museo Nazionale Romano The National Museum of Rome (MNR) is split across five sites. Much of the sculpture is at Palazzo Altemps (overleaf), while some of the best individual pieces, mosaics and frescoes are at Palazzo Massimo alle Terme (this page). Aula Ottagona has oversized bathhouse statues and the Baths of Diocletian house the epigraphic and stele collection. Crypta Balbi features remnants of ancient Roman city blocks and a 13 BC portico. 1 Statue of Augustus The statue of Rome’s first emperor once stood on Via Labicana. It shows him wearing his toga draped over his head – a sign that, in AD 12, he added the title Pontifex Maximus (high priest) to the list of honours he assigned himself. Four Charioteers Boats of Nemi 2 These elaborate 4 Leucotea Nursing Mosaic 7 Dionysus The imperial Severi family bronzes (including lions, Discovered in 1879, must have been passionate wolves and a head of a luxuriously fres- about sports to have deco- Medusa) once decorated coed villa included rated a bedroom of their the two luxury boats that this bedroom 3rd-century AD villa with Emperor Caligula kept scene of a nymph these charioteers (right). on the Lake of Nemi. The nursing the wine They are dressed in the boats, used for parties, god (above) with traditional colours of the even had central heating. additional scenes four factions of the in the niches. Roman circus. 5 Wounded Niobid Sculpted around 440 BC for a Greek temple and later acquired by Julius Caesar, this hauntingly beautiful figure of Niobid (daughter of Queen Niobe) is reaching for the fatal arrow that killed her siblings. 3 House of Livia These frescoes 6 Discus Thrower This 2nd-century AD (20–10 BC) depicting a marble copy (right) of the lush garden came from famous 450 BC Greek the villa of Augustus’s original by Myron is wife, Livia (above). They faithful to the point of were in the triclinium, a imitating the original dining room half-buried bronze’s imperfect to keep it cool in summer. dimensions. Previous pages the ruins of the Roman Forum  Museo Nazionale Romano ❮❮ 35 8 Bronze Dionysus Few large Classical 9 Ivory Mask of Apollo This exquisite mask was discovered bronzes survive today, making by illegal excavators in 1995 near Lake this 2nd-century AD statue Bracciano, northwest of Rome, and inter- special beyond its obvious grace, cepted by the Carabinieri. It formed part skill and preserved decoration. of a larger chryselephantine statue – one You can still see the yellow eyes, whose face, hands and feet were made of red lips and a comb band in the ivory, placed on a wooden frame and grape-festooned hair. “dressed” with textiles and gold. 0 Boxer Rest at No idealised athlete, this is a muscled, tough, middle-aged man, resting between bouts, naked except for the leather strips binding his fists. Red copper highlights make his bruises look fresh (below). NEED TO KNOW Archaeologia Card (valid 7 Republican Palazzo Massimo alle days) gives entry to all of and Early Imperial Rome Terme: the above plus many other (up to Augustus) statuary MAP F3 • Largo di Villa sites; €13 for EU citizens 18 on the ground floor, along Peretti 1 • 06 3996 7700 to 24 with a few precious older Greek pieces. The first floor • From Palazzo Altemps, Open 9am–7:45pm Tue– exhibits detail art in the Sun; closed 1 Jan & 25 Dec pop into Piazza Navona political, cultural and Palazzo Altemps: for refreshments at Tre economic spheres of MAP L2 • Piazza Scalini (see p94). Imperial Rome up to the Sant’Apollinare 46 • Call ahead for Palazzo 4th century. The second • 06 3996 7700 Massimo alle Terme floor, which requires a timed-entry ticket, pre- Open 9am–7:45pm Tue– tickets, as the frescoes serves ancient mosaics and Sun; closed 1 Jan & 25 Dec and mosaics on the top floor are timed-entry only. frescoes. The numismatic Adm: the €7 ticket (valid 7 collection is in the days) gives admission to all Gallery Guide basement, alongside some Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo Massimo alle gold jewellery and a mum- sites; the €23 Roma Terme exhibits its mified eight-year-old girl.  36 ❯❯ Top 10 Rome Highlights Palazzo Altemps Dionysus with Satyr Collection 1 Athena Parthenos The 1st-century BC Greek sculptor Antioco carved this statue to match the most famed sculpture in antiquity, the long-lost Athena in Athens’ Parthenon. 2 “Grande Ludovisi” Sarcophagus This mid-3rd century AD sarcophagus, deeply carved and remarkably well-preserved, shows the Romans victorious over the barbarian Ostrogoth hordes. 5 Dionysus with Satyr Imperial Rome was in love 3 Orestes and Electra This 1st-century AD statue with Greek sculpture, producing copies such as this grouping of was carved by Menelaus, an imitator Dionysus, a satyr and a panther. of the great Greek artist Praxiteles. The scraps of 15th-century fresco nearby depict some wedding gifts 6 Ludovisi Throne This set of 5th-century BC from the marriage of Girolamo Riario reliefs came to Rome from a and Caterina Sforza. Calabrian Greek colony and were discovered in the 19th century. 4 Garden Loggia of Delights 7 Apollo Playing the Lute The loggia frescoes (c.1595) are a There are two 1st-century AD catalogue of the exotic fruits, plants Apollos in the museum, both and animals then being imported restored in the 17th century. from the New World. 8 Suicidal Gaul This suicidal figure supporting his dead wife’s arm was part of a trio, including the Capitoline’s Dying Gaul (see p28) commissioned by Julius Caesar to celebrate a Gaulish victory. 9 Egyptian Statuary The Egyptian collections are divided into three sections related to that culture’s influence on Rome: political theological, popular worship and places of worship. The showpiece is the impressive granite Bull Api, or Brancaccio Bull (2nd century BC). 0 Colossal Head of Ludovisi Hera Goethe called this his “first love in Rome”. It is believed to be a portrait Garden of Delights Loggia of Claudius’s mother, Antonia.  Museo Nazionale Romano ❮❮ 37 ANCIENT ROMAN ART Ancient Rome’s art was as conservative as its TOP 10 culture. From the middle Republican to the ANCIENT ART Imperial era, Romans shunned original sculpture COLLECTIONS for copies of famous Greek works. The Caesars 1 Museo Nazionale imported Golden Age statuary from Greece, and Romano (see pp34–7) Roman workshops churned out toga-wearing 2 Vatican Museums headless figures in stock poses to which any (see pp12–13) bust could be affixed. Romans excelled at bust 3 Musei Capitolini portraiture, especially up to the early Imperial (see pp28–31) age when naturalism was still in vogue. Roman 4 Centrale painting is divided into styles based on Pompeii Montemartini (see p156) examples. The First Style imitated marble; the 5 Ara Pacis (see p97) Second Style imitated architecture, often set 6 Villa Giulia within the small painted scenes that became a (see pp40–41) hallmark of the Third Style. The Fourth Style was trompe l’oeil decoration. Mosaic, first developed 7 Trajan’s Column (see p27) as a floor-strengthening technique, could be simple black-on-white, or intricate work with 8 Column of Marcus Aurelius (see p98) shading and contour. Opus sectile (inlaid marble) was a style that was imported from the East. 9 Palatine Antiquarium (see p22) 10 Museo Barracco (see p110) The Ludovisi Throne is a sculpted marble block depicting the birth of Aphrodite. The goddess is seen rising from the sea wearing finely carved diaphanous drapery. A 2nd-century BC Roman mosaic depicting a cat catching a partidge, MNR  38 ❯❯ Top 10 Rome Highlights Santa Maria del Popolo Few churches are such perfect primers on Roman art and architecture. Masters from the Early Renaissance (Bramante, Pinturicchio), High Renaissance (Raphael) and Baroque (Caravaggio, Bernini) exercised their genius in all disciplines here: painting, sculpture, architecture and decoration. It’s also one of the few churches with major chapels still intact, preserving the artworks that together tell a complete story. 2 Crucifixion St Peter of Caravaggio has avoided the goriness of his earlier works and filled this chiaroscuro work (1601) with drama (left). The naturalistic figures quietly go about their business – the tired workers hauling the cross into place, Peter looking contemplative. 1 Pinturicchio’s Adoration 3 Conversion of St Paul Raphael’s contemporary Again, Caravaggio leaves retained more of their all drama to the effects of teacher Perugino’s light, depicting an awe­ limpid Umbrian style struck Paul transfixed by in this 1490 work in the blinding light (1601). della Rovere chapel. Also in the chapel is Cardinal Cristoforo’s 4 Sansovino Tombs Santa Maria del Popolo tomb by Francesco da Tuscan Andrea Sansovino Sangallo (1478), while gave a Renaissance/Etruscan Domenico’s tomb (1477) twist to the traditional lying­in­ features a Madonna with state look (1505–07). These Child by Mino da Fiesole. effigies of Cardinal della Rovere and Cardinal Sforza recline on cushions as if merely asleep. 5 Daniel and Habakkuk Sculpture as theatre by Bernini, as an angel seizes Habakkuk by the hair (right) to fly him to the imprisoned, starving Daniel, shown kneel­ ing with a lion licking his foot. 6 Raphael’s Chigi Chapel Pagan and Christian imagery are fused in this exquisite chapel designed for Agostino Chigi. The skeleton inlaid in the floor (left) plays a role in Dan Brown’s Angels and Demons.  Santa Maria del Popolo ❮❮ 39 7 Marcillat’s Stained- THE PEOPLE’S Glass Window CHURCH The only Roman The ghost of Nero, work by Guillaume buried in the Domitia de Marcillat (1509), family crypt on the the undisputed Pincio (see p68), is said French master of to have terrorized this neighbourhood in the stained glass, this form of demon crows depicts the Infancy of that lived in a cursed Christ and Life of the tree. Pope Paschal II Virgin (left). reassured the locals in 1099 by replacing the tree with a chapel paid for by the people (il popolo). It was enlarged in 1227 and rebuilt in Lombard style in 1472–7. Andrea Bregno may have added the Renaissance façade, and Bernini a Baroque touch to the interior. Plan of Santa Maria del Popolo 9 0 4 7 2 3 5 8 8 Sebastiano del Piombo’s Nativity of the Virgin 6 1 This altarpiece in the Chigi Chapel (1530–34) is in contrast to the dome’s Neo-pagan themes, the Eternal Father blessing Chigi’s horoscope of planets symbolized by pagan gods. 9 Bramante’s Apse The Renaissance architect’s first work in NEED TO KNOW Rome, commissioned by Julius II around 1500, was MAP D2 • Piazza del Popolo 12 • 06 361 0836 this beautiful light-filled Open 7:30am–12:30pm, 4–7pm Sun–Thu; choir and scallop shell- 7:30am–7pm Fri–Sat shaped apse. Free •Canova and Rosati cafés (see p122) are both 0 Delphic Sibyl Pinturicchio, one of the on Piazza del Popolo. most fashionable artists of • Some of the church’s treasures are behind the the early 16th century, deco- high altar in the choir and apse. When mass is rated the apse with antique not in session, go behind the curtain to the left grotesqueries including Sibyls of the altar and switch on the lights to see them. and an intricate tracery of freakish and fantastic beasts.  40 ❯❯ Top 10 Rome Highlights Villa Giulia Villa Giulia was built in the mid-16th century by Vignola as a pleasure palace for Pope Julius III, who used to float up the Tiber on a flower-decked barge to the building site to keep an eye on progress. It is now a museum devoted to the Etruscans, whose upper classes at least shared Julius’s love of luxury. Occupying the area bounded by the Arno and Tiber, they dominated Rome until ousted by an uprising in 509 BC. 5 Euphronios Krater This exquisite red- figured Greek krater – used for mixing wine and water – holds 45 litres and depicts a scene from the Trojan War, in which the Olympian deity Hermes directs Hypnos, the god of 1 Frescoed Tomb Lion from Tarquinia 3 Sarcophagus sleep, and Thanatos, the god of death, to A reconstruction of a This marvellous carry away the body of tomb at the Etruscan 6th-century BC terra- a slain warrior. It was necropolis at Tarquinia, cotta sarcophagus sold to New York’s this is frescoed with (below), with four roar- Metropolitan Museum scenes from a banquet, ing lions on its lid, was of Art after being looted with dancers, acrobats so huge that it had to be from a tomb in the and athletes providing cut in two in order to fit 1920s, and was returned entertainment (above). in the kiln for firing. to Italy in 2008 (right). 2 Hydria This vase, used for carrying water, was imported from Greece by the Etruscans and shows a lion and panther attacking a mule (below). 4 Ficoroni Cista 6 Ex Votives As with similar A cylindrical practices in contem- bronze coffer in porary Catholicism, which women models of body parts, stored mirrors, including faces, feet, cosmetics and uteri and various other beauty accessories, internal organs were incised with intri- offered to Etruscan cately detailed Gods by sick people scenes from the and their families, in myth of Jason and the hope that they the Argonauts. would be cured.  Villa Giulia ❮❮ 41 7 Sarcophagus of the Spouses When it was discovered in 1881, this splendid 6th-century BC sarcophagus (right) was in 400 pieces. Painstakingly reconstructed, the intimate portrait of a married couple reclining on the lid, smiling as if sharing a joke, is perhaps the most evocative and human work of Etruscan art in existence. 8 Etruscan Temple In the gardens is a 19th- century reconstruction of the Temple of Alatri. 9 Chigi Vase Imported from Corinth, Greece, this vase is painted with hunting and battle scenes, including a fascinating frieze showing hoplites (foot soldiers) in formation with decorated shields. 0 Faliscan Krater of the Dawn The Faliscans, who lived in southern Lazio, were an indigenous Italic tribe with their own language and culture. This elaborate 4th-century BC vase is decorated with scenes showing a personification of Dawn rising in a chariot. NEED TO KNOW • The Villa Giulia Café has Etruscan necropolises at tables on a terrace shaded Tarquinia and Cerveteri. MAP D1 • Piazzale di Villa by orange trees, and The ground floor is organ­ Giulia 9 • 06 320 1706 • www.villagiulia. serves coffees, cold drinks ised geographically, with pastries and sandwiches. sections devoted to the beniculturali.it • There are excellent main Etruscan archaeolo­ Open 8:30am–7:30pm audio guides available in gical sites, including Tue–Sun English and Italian. Cerveteri, Vulci and Veio. Adm: €8; free for under 18s The first floor has a room and over 65s Museum Guide devoted to important This is a lovely museum objects that have been Villa Giulia’s vast collection with a lot to see and returned after being continues in the recently pleasant gardens to stroll illegally excavated and opened Villa Poniatowski around when you need to sold, as well as private (see p66); open only by take a break. There are two collections that have been appointment 9am–1:30pm main floors, plus a small donated to the museum. Tues–Sat; book two days in basement section – an There is also an interesting advance between 2–5pm atmospheric home for the and well­explained Mon–Fri on 06 321 9698 reconstructed tombs from epigraphic section.  42 ❯❯ Top 10 Rome Highlights Ostia Antica Some 2,000 years ago, this lively international port city was at the seashore (ostium means “river mouth”), but over the millennia the sea retreated and the river changed course. Ostia was founded in the 4th century BC as a simple fort, but as Rome grew, the town became important as an import hub. Its heyday ended in the 4th century AD, and it died completely as an inhabited area about 1,000 years ago. 3 Museum Beautifully organized, the displays include precious sculp­ tures, sarcophagi and mosaics found among the ruins. A highlight is a statue of the god Mithras about to sacrifice the Cosmic Bull (left). 4 Forum The rectangular heart of officialdom was originally encircled by columns. In the centre was a shrine to the Imperial Lares (household gods). 1 Decumanus 5 Mithraeum of the Serpents Maximus One of 18 Ostian temples You enter this vast to Mithras. The cult was archaeological park by popular with Roman way of the ancient Via Ostiensis. The white soldiers, and flourished especially well in port 6 Theatre The original marble goddess on the towns. The snake theatre was twice as tall left marks the start of frescoes invoked the as it now stands (above). city’s main street, lined earth’s fertility; the plat­ Behind the stage was a with buildings, the forms were for lying on temple, of either Ceres Decumanus Maximus. during mystic banquets. (goddess of grain) or Dionysus (god of theatre). 7 Piazzale delle Corporazione This large piazza is surrounded by the ruins of what were once the offices of various mari­ time businesses, each with a black and white mosaic advertising its Casa di Diana and Thermopolium 2 You can climb up to the top of this insula trade – chandlers, rope­ makers, importers of (apartment block) for a great view across the site. grain, ivory, wild animals. Across the street is the Thermopolium, a tavern with One has a charming a delightful wall painting of menu items (above). elephant mosaic.  Ostia Antica ❮❮ 43 8 Terme di Nettuno Built in the 2nd century, this bath complex (left) was enhanced with fine mosaics of sea gods and sea monsters, which you can view from a small terrace. You can also go down to the left to study close- up the ingenious heating system of the baths. 9 Terme dei Sette Sapienti This elaborate bath complex contains a painting of Venus; floor mosaics of hunters, animals, nude athletes and marine scenes; and humorous texts in Latin. House of Cupid and Psyche The wealthy had villas like this refined 0 example of a 3rd-century AD domus (right). You can still admire the Doric columns, the fountain (nymphaeum) and the inlaid marble decorations. NEED TO KNOW hour before closing time); Park Guide MAP G2 • Viale dei closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec The trip by local train is Romagnoli 717 • 06 5635 Adm: €8 (€4 EU citizens easy, short and costs the 8099 18–25) same as one regular bus ticket. From the Ostia Metro B, trams 3 and 30, The port area (Trajan’s Antica train station, walk or buses 23, 75, 95, 280 to Port) can be visited on straight out to the foot­ Piramide, then local train request, 06 6501 0089 bridge that goes over the from Porta San Paolo highway. Continue past the • There’s a snack bar Station (next to the metro restaurant until you get to station) to Ostia Antica behind the museum to refuel and refresh. the ticket booth. The park Open Nov–Feb: 8:30am– is extensive and a decent • The ruined walls look 3:30pm daily; Mar–Aug: visit will take at least 3 8:30am–4:30pm daily; confusingly similar –rent hours. Wear sturdy shoes, Sep–Oct: 8:30am–5:30pm an audio guide where you and bring sunscreen and daily (last admission one buy your entrance ticket. water on hot days. The Top 10 of Everything Moments in Rome’s History 46 Ancient Sites 48 Early Christian Churches 50 Renaissance and Baroque Museum staircase Churches 52 at the Vatican Museums and Galleries 54 Restaurants 72 Artistic Masterpieces 56 Roman Dishes 74 Villas and Palaces 58 Osterias, Trattorias and Pizzerias 76 Squares and Fountains 60 Cafés and Gelaterie 78 Underground Sights 62 Shopping Streets 80 Writers in Rome 64 Rome for Free 82 Off the Beaten Track 66 Cultural Festivals 84 Green Spaces 68 Rome for Children 70  46 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything Moments in Rome’s History 1 Romulus and Remus The foundation of Rome is said to have occurred in 753 BC. Twins Romulus and Remus, sons of Mars and a Vestal Virgin, were set adrift by their evil uncle and suckled by a she-wolf. They then founded rival Bronze Age villages on the Palatine, but Romulus killed Remus during an argument, and his “Rome” went on to greatness. 2 Rape Women of the Sabine Joseph Court’s The Death of Caesar To boost the female population in the 750s BC, Romulus’s men kidnapped popularity. He marched his women from the neighbouring Sabine army to Rome and declared kingdom. As Rome began to expand, himself Dictator for Life, however, the kingdoms were united. but on 15 March 44 BC Rome was later conquered by the he was assassinated. Etruscan Tarquin dynasty. In 510 BC, a Caesar’s adopted son patrician-ruled Republic was formed Octavian changed his that lasted more than 450 years. name to Augustus and declared himself 3 Assassination of Caesar A series of military emperor in 27 BC. victories, adding Gaul (France) to Rome, increased 4 Rome Burns In AD 64 fire General Julius Caesar’s destroyed much of Rome. Julius Emperor Nero rebuilt Caesar many public works, but also appropriated vast tracts of land to build his Domus Aurea or Golden House. Hounded from office, he committed suicide in AD 68 (see p49). 5 Battle Bridge at Milvian Rape of the In 312 Emperor Constantine, Sabine Women whose mother was a Christian, had a vision of victory under the sign of the Cross and defeated co-emperor Maxentius at Milvian Bridge. He declared Christianity the state religion. 6 Fall of the Empire By the late 4th century Rome was in decline, as Barbarians from across the Rhine and Danube conquered outlying provinces. In 476, the last emperor was deposed and the Empire fell.  Moments in Rome’s History ❮❮ 47 7 Papacy Avignon moves to TOP 10 INFLUENTIAL POPES Following the departure of the papacy to France in 1309, the city became a backwater ruled by petty princes who built palaces out of marble from the great temples. In 1377 the papacy returned to Rome, and the city was reborn. 8 Sack of Rome Rome was conquered for the first time in more than a millennium in 1527. Emperor Charles V’s Pope John Paul II Germanic troops held the city for 1 St Peter seven months until Pope Clement VII The Apostle (AD 42–67) called by surrendered and promised to Jesus to lead the church. After his address the concerns of the new martyrdom in Rome the city became Protestant movement. the epicentre of Christianity. 2 St Leo the Great 9 Unification of Italy Piemontese King Vittorio Rome’s bishop (440–61) made himself pontifex maximus of the Emanuele II and his general, Christian church. Garibaldi, spent years conquering 3 St Gregory the Great the peninsula’s kingdoms and Affirmed the papacy as the western principalities to create a new country secular leader and converted England called Italy. In 1870, Garibaldi to Christianity (590–604). breached the Aurelian Walls and 4 Innocent III took the ancient capital, completing This medieval pope (1198–1216) Italian Unification. hand-picked emperors and approved monkish orders. 5 Boniface VIII Imperious, pragmatic and power-hungry, Boniface (1294–1303) instituted the first Jubilee to make money. 6 Alexander VI Ruthless Borgia pope (1492–1503), who used the pontificate to destroy rivals. 7 Julius II A warrior pope and patron of the arts (1513–21), he hired Michelangelo for the Sistine Chapel and Raphael to Mussolini with the Quadrumvirs decorate his apartment (see p12). 8 Paul III 0 Mussolini Takes Power Benito “Il Duce” Mussolini, Scholarly and secular, but fighting Protestant reforms, Paul III (1534–49) leader of the nationalistic Fascist founded the Jesuits and the Inquisition. Party, marched on Rome in 1922 9 Sixtus V and was declared prime minister. Cleansed Papal States of corruption Delusions of imperial grandeur led (1585–90) and masterminded a him to excavate many of the ruins we Baroque overhaul of Rome. see today. He allied Italy with Hitler, 10 John Paul II but when the tides turned, Mussolini The first non-Italian Pope for over 400 was deposed and Italy joined Allied years, John Paul II (1920-2005), was troops. The current Republic was set famed for his extensive travelling. up after a referendum in 1946.  48 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything Ancient Sites The ruins of the Colosseum, the imposing 1st-century AD amphitheatre 1 The Colosseum The intense labour to build Augustus in the 1st century BC. The flowers indicate the exact spot of the greatest of amphitheatres was Caesar’s cremation (see pp20–21). carried out by Jewish slaves, brought here after the suppression of their revolt in Judaea. It has been the 4 The Pantheon People originally approached archetype for the world’s sports this temple to all the gods by a steep stadiums ever since (see p26). staircase, but the street level has risen since the 2nd century. The 2 Trajan’s Column Markets and present temple was built by Hadrian, after the 1st­century BC temple Trajan’s Markets were the burned down (see pp18–19). world’s first shopping complex, 150 shops on five levels selling everything from fish (kept fresh 5 Palatine Hill Most European languages in tanks), spices and fruit to derive their word for palace wine, oil and fabrics. It opened from the name of this hill. onto Trajan’s Forum, domi­ All­important in the history nated by Trajan’s Column. of early Rome, first as its Bas reliefs spiral around birthplace, then as the the column, describing site of its leaders’ homes, two Roman campaigns in it is now ideal for a romantic Dacia, so detailed that stroll (see pp22–3). they may have been based on Trajan’s own war diaries (see pp26–7). 6 Pyramid Cestius of Caius In the late 1st century BC, 3 Roman Forum In the centre of the spurred by Cleopatra’s fame, all things Egyptian were fash­ Forum stands a humble ionable in Rome. Cestius built ruined structure where this pyramid as a tomb. It took fresh flowers are placed 330 days to build and is his only year­round. This is the claim to fame (see p127). foundation of the Temple to Julius Caesar, built by Trajan’s Column  Ancient Sites ❮❮ 49 7 Column Aurelius of Marcus TOP 10 ROMAN EMPERORS A 2nd­century AD commemoration of conquests along the Danube, this colossus stands 30 m (100 ft) high and consists of 28 marble drums. The 20 spiral reliefs chronicle war scenes. A statue of the emperor and his wife once stood on top of the column, but it was replaced by one of St Paul in 1589 (see p98). 8 Baths of Caracalla The most popular spa of Emperor Constantine ancient Rome, the baths included 1 Augustus exercise areas, hot and cold pools, The first and most brilliant emperor social lounges, art centres, brothels (31 BC–AD 14) brought a reign of and libraries. Incredibly, access to peace after 17 years of civil war. the terme was free. Today, the 2 Nero complex hosts Rome’s most The most notorious for his excesses, important opera festival (see p125). Nero (54–68) fancied himself a great singer and showman. 3 Vespasian This emperor (69–79) ended civil war and the Jewish revolt, and started construction of the Colosseum. 4 Trajan One of the most just rulers and successful generals, Trajan (98–117) pushed the Roman Empire to its furthest reaches. 5 Hadrian Baths of Caracalla A great builder and traveller, Hadrian (117–38) revived Greek ideals, including 9 Crypta Balbi In the 1980s, a private Roman the fashion of growing a beard. 6 Marcus Aurelius theatre dating back to 13 BC was The closest Rome came to having discovered here. By the 3rd century a philosopher-king of the Platonic the area had gone downhill, with a ideal (161–80). lime kiln, glass factory and apart­ 7 Septimius Severus ment blocks for workers. The Brought order after civil war, promoted museum brings to life all these cultural life and left an important stages, and there are regular tours architectural legacy (193–211). around the excavations (see pp62–3). 8 Diocletian Diocletian (284–305) set up a governing 0 Palazzo Valentini The polychrome marble walls system of multiple emperors. A virulent persecutor of the Christians. and mosaic floors are reconstructed 9 Constantine using clever technology as visitors Constantine (306–37) established walk through the ruins of a private Christianity as the state religion and spa complex at these recently moved the capital to Constantinople. discovered patrician villas. Another 10 Romulus Augustulus itinerary focuses on a newly The last of the emperors (475–6), his excavated part of Trajan’s Forum, depostion by German warrior Odoacer and includes animations of scenes marked the fall of the Roman Empire. from Trajan’s Column (see p62).  50 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything Early Christian Churches O PIAZZA ST EL L O N E BARBERINI PIAZZA DELLA VIA V I A D. OT. C A T R IT REPUBBLICA PIAZZA CO N C I L I A Z I O N E LU N G DEL LE S. PIETRO E V IA NA EV E R RI DEL LU N G O T N O N A TREVI UI E TO R D I .Q AL N L U N G OT D IO V. CO R PONTE AZ UR CO SO N VO R SO VI PIAZZA A VI CA TT NAVONA .G OR PIGNA A F i uN I CO IO E IA A VI MAN UEL E N IS P ER N m e LEN II PIAZZA V IA PA PARIONE VENEZIA MONTI LA VI T e LU CAMPO SE A re DE OUR ve G NU N DE' FIORI C AV L LO IF V IA RE OR II V. A N T I N O ATR O D ARCE OT D. M PE . FA RI LUN G OT. D. IM Gianicolo I R NE AL CE I LD SI NA CAMPITELLI PIAZZA DEL BA NC V IA COLOSSEO L A B IC RI I ANA GA V. D . TE RE VIA G. VIA VE TE VI TRASTEVERE CLA A AS AV E DE CELIO TR I C UD 0 metres 800 E RE RC DI IA HI VE LE TE VIA 800 RIPA GO 0 yards N LU 1 StShould Peter’s Basilica the opportunity arise, goddess Isis – the first church on this site was probably built over a don’t miss seeing the basilica’s disused Roman fire station, which cavernous interior when all the Christians used for secret worship. lights are on – only then can you Covering the apse are superb 9th­ fully appreciate this giant jewel century mosaics, the figures lifelike box of colour (see pp16–17). and fluid – look at the different expressions of the angels, the wind 2 Santa Prassede Santa Prassede stirring their drapery, or the sheep licking the gowns of was founded in the the Apostles as they 9th century by Pope walk in a meadow. Paschal II on the legendary site of a titulus, a private 4 The Pantheon house where According to Christians wor­ legend, in the 7th shipped in secret century, demons during the attacked Christians persecutions of the as they walked past first and second the Pantheon, and centuries. The choir and permission was granted the Chapel of St Zeno were Santa Prassede to convert this temple to all decorated by Byzantine gods into a church. It is still mosaic artists (see p132). a church, dedicated to the Madonna and all martyrs (see pp18–19). 3 Santa Maria in Domnica 5 Santa Cecilia in MAP E5 • Piazza della Navicella Trastevere • 06 3996 7500 • Open 8:30am– This church stands over the steam 12:30pm, 4:30–7:30pm daily room or caldarium in which, • www.santamariaindomnica.it according to legend, St Cecilia was Nicknamed Santa Maria della locked for three days to suffocate to Navicella after the stone boat in the death for having tried to give her fountain outside – likely to be a votive husband and his brother Christian offering by Roman sailors to the burials. One story is that she sang  Early Christian Churches ❮❮ 51 throughout her imprisonment – the reason she is now the patron saint of music. In 1599, her tomb was opened and her perfectly preserved body briefly revealed before it disintegrated on contact with the air. Stefano Maderno made sketches, which he used for his haunting sculpture The Martyrdom of Saint Cecilia (see p144). 6 Santa Maria in Trastevere Probably Rome’s oldest church, this is certainly one of the most intimate and charming. Dating from the time of Pope Calixtus I (AD 217–222), it was an early centre of Marian devotion and is Rome’s only medieval church that has not been altered by either decay or enthusiastic Baroque renovators (see p143). 7 Santa Maria Maggiore One of Rome’s greatest basicilas, this dates from the 5th Santa Maria sopra Minerva century, as do its earliest mosaics, full of Byzantine splendour. The the Inquisition in Rome – Galileo was 16th-century Capella Sistina rare tried for heresy in the adjoining marbles were “quarried”, in typical convent (see p97). papal fashion, by destroying an ancient wonder – the Palatine’s Septizonium, a tower built in AD 203 9 San Clemente A double decker-church above by Septimius Severus (see p131). a Roman temple, San Clemente offers visitors a touch of Roman time travel. At street level is a 12th-cen- tury church with medieval mosaics, Cosmati-work pavements and choir enclosures and Renaissance fres- coes by Massaccio and Masolino. Below is a 4th-century church with traces of frescoes, and below that a series of Roman foundations and a Mithras temple, where initiation rites and ritual feasts took place (see p131). 0 Santa Maria in Cosmedin This wonderfully atmospheric Santa Maria Maggiore church has some of the city’s finest Cosmati work (geometric mosaics 8 Santa Maria sopra Minerva made of coloured marble fragments reclaimed from ancient buildings) on Built in 1280 on the ruins of a temple its pavements, choir enclosure, and dedicated to Minerva, Roman a twisting Paschal candlestick. A goddess of wisdom. In the 16th glass case holds the flower-crowned century it was the headquarters of skull of St Valentine (see p108).  52 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything Renaissance and Baroque Churches beau monde. Fiammetta, courtesan lover of Cesare Borgia, donated property to the church, and banker Agostino Chigi commissioned a chapel which was decorated by Raphael with Sibyls, best seen from a window of the Bramante cloisters behind the church (see p90). 4 San Luigi dei Francesi The great attraction here is Caravaggio’s trio of huge paintings (see p57). The central oil on canvas, St Matthew and the Angel, is the second version. The first was rejected by the church because the saint was shown with dirty feet – and, some say, because of the overly familiar young angel (see p89). 5 Tempietto MAP C5 Piazza San Pietro • in Montorio • 06 581 3940 • Santa Maria del Popolo 9:30am–12:30pm, 2–4:30pm Tue–Fri Rome’s most quintessentially 1 Santa Maria del Popolo Legend says that on this spot, Renaissance building, the Tempietto is a perfectly circular Doric temple where a great oak grew, Nero died built by Bramante in 1501 on the site and was buried. The site was thought where St Peter was thought to have cursed, but in 1099, in a vision, Pope been crucified. Paschal II was told by the Virgin to fell the oak, dig up Nero’s bones and build a chapel (see pp38–9). 2 Sant’Agostino Home to the Madonna del Parto, a 15th-century marble statue inspired by Roman goddess Juno and surrounded by gifts from those whose wish for a child has been granted. Across the aisle, the realism of Caravaggio’s Madonna di Loreto caused a scandal when it was unveiled in 1603 – the pilgrims’ feet are filthy and even the Madonna has dirty toenails (see p90). 3 Santa Maria della Pace One of the most fashionable churches in Renaissance Rome, Santa Maria was frequented by the The 16th-century Tempietto  Renaissance and Baroque Churches ❮❮ 53 8 Sant’Ivo Borromini was a restlessly inventive architect, fascinated with intricate geometry. Sant’Ivo took over 20 years to build, spanning the reigns of three popes, and each has their family emblem included in the decor: bees for Barberini Pope Urban VIII, doves for Pamphilj Pope Innocent X, and star­topped blanc­ mange – actually a mountain – for Chigi Pope Alexander VI (see p89). 9 San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane MAP R2 • Via del Quirinale 23 • 06 488 3261 • 10am–1pm, 3–6pm Mon– Fri, 10am–1pm Sat, 10am–1pm Sun Frescoes at Sant’Ignazio di Loyola A tiny church by Bernini’s arch rival Borromini, with an octagonal court­ 6 Sant’Ignazio di Loyola The building of Sant’Ignazio yard and oval building, and an ingenious geometrically coffered di Loyola began in 1626, when the dome, designed to create the illusion Catholic church was reeling from the that it is higher than it really is. blow dealt by Protestantism. The Jesuits who commissioned it were wary of appearing too wealthy – 0 Santa Maria della Vittoria hence the austere façade. By the late Caked with gold and stucco, this is 17th century, when the interior was one of Rome’s most lavishly deco­ decorated, they were more confident, rated churches. It holds Bernini’s and commissioned stunning illusion­ notorious statue, Ecstasy of St Teresa, istic frescoes marking the triumphs showing the saint in the throes of of Jesuit missionaries (see p98). what is possibly the art world’s most famous orgasm (see p137). 7 Sant’Andrea Quirinale al Villa LU N MAP Q2 • Via del Borghese G OT LU N Quirinale 29 • 06 487 PIAZZA DEL POPOLO . IN PRATI GO 4565 • 8:30am–noon, LUDOVISI TO AU A CAMPO T. COL NE VIA IENZO GU D. MARZIO 2:30–6pm Tue–Sat, 9am– DI R VE S TA ME noon, 2:30–6pm Sun LLIN PIAZZA DI SPAGNA O RI O PIAZZA TT R Z IO I E Bernini at his most BR VI VIA CAVOUR V IA EM TT MA theatrical: the church is TEL L O PIAZZA XX SE T. S BARBERINI T. C A ONE DEL O NG an oval, set on its short LU N G O LU COLONNA V IA DEL T R IT TREVI LE VI A axis – on entering, your IN A COR R E UI AL PONTE eyes hit the high altar, .Q ZI ON SO C O VIA RS D O V. NA where sculpted angels VI TT PIAZZA O R NAVONA PIGNA VI A GI appear to be positioning IO E A P ER N UL MA N UELE PIAZZA PA N IS IA II V IA a painting of St Andrew VENEZIA PARIONE VI MONTI LA C E LLO CAMPO A crucified on his diagonal DE OUR Fi G LU NU m DE' FIORI IF C AV u T. N O O V IA RE RI cross. Above, a statue e D AR IM V. A . PE FA e v RO DI M T RI RN er e of the saint floats on a I ES LU N G OT. D. C CAMPITELLI AL I AL . D IN R IB G cloud towards heaven, A E AT GA VIA EN PIAZZA DEL CI TRASTEVERE COLOSSEO T as if he has just slipped V . D. RE TE D I 0 metres 800 VE through the broken AS E TR VI A L 0 yards 800 pediment below.  54 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything Museums and Galleries VI MA 1.5 km AL RG E H I R EE R I IN ZZ G I TA VI MA A NGELICO V IA N AL IANA A E VIA GIUSE P PE SALARIO FLA Villa VI NC A M IN MICHE Borghese LU N G L A N G SALA IZ IE PI TR M IL IA ELLE VI AL F IO E D ium O T E E LO IA NF V IA L RIA V VIALE PIAZZA DEL E D AL VER e POPOLO E EL LUDOVISI VI A LE E A M TO UR V. D. RIPETT R PRATI NZO O TO RIE Te E DI BR ONE ver A COL EM VIA T e VIA SALLUSTIANO IV PIAZZA DI ET CITTÀ DEL VIA CRESCE NZIO SPAGNA S CASTRO IO XX PRETORIO VATICANO ARZ DEL BORGO PIAZZA DELLA .M O T. LU N GE L L O ONE I A REPUBBLICA OT NG T R IT V PIAZZA CAS T LU DEL COR V IA LE S. PIETRO TREVI I NA LE IR A SO PONTE N UR E GGE RI U O LL Q VA D. ZI CO VO LU N CA SO PIGNA V. A R CA VI PIAZZA N GO TA TT A OR NAVONA VI P OR T. IO E A ESQUILINO MA N P ER N G UE L E I PA N IS LU PIAZZA IA N I V. G V IA A N OT VENEZIA VI VIA IC U LA . PARIONE VI OL A MONTI D. D. E EN FO LU TE ME Gi a n i co l o G RI N BA AR 0 metres 800 D IM RU OT L D. I PE VIA . FA RI LA R NE AL 0 yards 800 I PIAZZA DEL NA SIN A CAMPITELLI COLOSSEO 1 Vatican Museums Occupying papal palaces 4 Musei Capitolini The glorious square, dating from the 13th century designed by no less than onwards, these galleries Michelangelo, is home to smaller include the Graeco-Roman papal art collections than the antiquities, the Etruscan Vatican’s, but equally invaluable Museum, four Raphael (see pp28–31). Rooms, the Collection of Modern Religious Art, the Sistine Chapel and the 5 Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica Picture Gallery (see pp12–15). This state art collection is divided between two noble Museo Nazionale 2 Romano family residences, Palazzo Barberini (see p137) and Founded in 1889, this Palazzo Corsini (see p146). museum’s holdings The first boasts the Gran include archaeological Salone, with its dazzling finds and antiquities Venus, illusionistic ceiling by Pietro unearthed since 1870, plus Vatican da Cortona, along with works by pre-existing collections. The Museums Filippo Lippi, El Greco, Holbein works are distributed between the and Caravaggio. The second houses Baths of Diocletian, nearby Palazzo a Fra Angelico triptych, and paintings Massimo, Palazzo Altemps, and the by Rubens, Van Dyck and Caravaggio. Crypta Balbi (see pp34–7). 3 Galleria Borghese 6 MACRO MAP F1 Via Nizza 138 • • 06 A tribute to the unbridled 6710 70400 • Open 10:30am–7:30pm power of favoured papal nephews in Tue–Sun • Adm the 1600s, this pleasure-palace, its One of two branches of the Museo restored gardens and priceless art d’Arte Contemporanea Roma (the collections comprise one of Rome’s other is in Testaccio, see p127). The most gorgeous sights (see pp24–5). building, originally a Peroni beer  Museums and Galleries ❮❮ 55 8 Galleria Doria Pamphilj This aristocratic family’s palace is filled with masterpieces by such painters as Raphael, Titian and Velázquez, whose portrait of the Pamphilj pope is famous for its psychological depth. This exhibit is accompanied an audio-guide narrated by the present-day Prince Jonathan Doria Pamphilj (in English) that gives rare insight into the history of the collection (see p97). 9 Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna One of the spaces at MACRO The belle époque home to this collection offers sculptures by Canova factory, is an imaginative triumph, and an exhaustive view of 19th-century with an aerial, glass-floored Italian and European painting. There courtyard and reactive lighting is also an eclectic selection of systems. Although there is a modern works, including pieces by permanent collection, the style is artists such as Rodin, Cézanne, that of a contemporary gallery, with Modigliani, Van Gogh, Monet, Klimt an ever-changing series of and Jackson Pollock (see p118). exhibitions and installations. Villa Giulia 7 The building itself is a 0 MAXXI Set in a futuristic concrete building, MAXXI hosts a rich season of 16th-century country retreat designed frequently changing thematic exhibi- for Pope Julius III by Vignola. Since tions of contemporary art, photography 1889, it has housed the state col- and architecture. Short art films and lection of pre-Roman art, including videos are screened for free in a small Etruscan artifacts and relics of the cinema. The building alone makes a Latins and other tribes. The prize visit worthwhile, featuring a gravity- Etruscan work is the 6th-century BC defying overhang, carbon-fibre lighting Sarcophagus of the Spouses, a large and freestanding stairways and walk- terracotta showing a serenely ways that look like something straight smiling couple (see p118). out of a sci-fi movie (see pp156–7). The award-winning futuristic architecture of MAXXI  56 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything Artistic Masterpieces 1 Caravaggio’s Deposition Caravaggio strove to outdo synthesist, mixing Perugino’s clarity, Michelangelo’s colour palette and Michelangelo’s Pietà by making his twisting figures, and Leonardo’s Mary old and tired. Rather than a composition (see p12). slender slip of a Christ, Caravaggio’s muscular Jesus is so heavy (emphasized by a diagonal 3 Michelangelo’s Pietà composition) that Nicodemus The Renaissance struggles with his legs and John’s is known for grasp opens Christ’s wound (see p13). naturalism, but Michelangelo 2 Raphael’s Transfiguration warped this for artistic effect. Raphael’s towering masterpiece and Here, Mary is his final work was found, almost too young, her Michelangelo’s finished, in his studio when he died. dead son, achingly Pietà It is the pinnacle of his talent as a thin and small, laid across her voluminous lap. Hearing the work being attributed to better known sculptors, the artist crept into the chapel of St Peter’s one night and carved his name in the band across the Virgin’s chest (see p16). 4 Raphael’s Athens School of When Raphael first cast his con­ temporary artists as Classical thinkers in this imaginary setting, one was missing. After he saw the Sistine ceiling Michelangelo was painting down the hall, Raphael added the troubled genius, sulking on the steps, as Heraclitus (see p12). 5 Michelangelo’s Chapel Sistine Although he considered himself a Raphael’s Transfiguration sculptor first, Michelangelo LU VIA 1km IN N ZO NG I R IE LU G U S TA V IT A D AU OT CO L NGO TO V IA . D. RI PIAZZA DI O T. VE M E L L I NI SPAGNA N VIA CRE SCE NZI O E TO VIA BORGO PIAZZA LO BARBERINI PIAZZA re TEL v e LE V I A D. T. C A S Te ONE NA DELLA DEL LU N G O R IT RI REPUBBLICA PIAZZA CON C I L I A Z I O N E e D EL T UI S. PIETRO F i u mE V E R E V IA Q LU N G O T N O N A L T OR D I TREVI DE AL E COR R TA C AVA L LEG G E R VI A ON PO I PONTE ZI SO NA CO A RS LU N O PIAZZA D. VI VI LU A N G TT NAVONA PIGNA GO A VI S OR NG AL IO T. EMA A P ER N O T LO NUE PA N IS GI L E II . PIAZZA UR V IA AN VENEZIA VO PARIONE IC 0 metres 800 MONTI CA OL NS E E 0 yards 800 V IA  Artistic Masterpieces ❮❮ 57 Detail from the frescoes of the Sistine Chapel managed to turn this almost-flat ceiling into a soaring vault peopled 8 Leonardo St Jerome da Vinci’s with Old Testament prophets and Barely sketched out, yet compelling ignudi (nude men). He did it virtually for its anatomical precision and alone, firing all of his assistants compositional experi- save one to help him grind mentation. Jerome forms pigments (see pp14–15). a spiral that starts in the mountains, runs across 6 Bernini’s Apollo and the cave entrance and lion’s curve, up the saint’s Daphne outstretched right arm, then Rarely has marble wraps along his left arm and captured flowing, hand into the centre (see p13). almost liquid move- ment so grace- fully. Bernini 9 Michelangelo’s Moses freezes time, This wall monument is a pale windblown hair and shadow of the elaborate cloak, in the instant tomb for Julius II that the fleeing nymph is Michelangelo first envisaged wrapped in bark and and for which he carved this leaves, transformed figure. Some claim there is a into a laurel by her self-portrait in the beard and sympathetic river Bernini’s Apollo what are commonly thought god father (see p24). and Daphne to be horns may have been an attempt to create a radiating Caravaggio’s Calling of 7 St Matthew light effect (see p131). Caravaggio uses strong chiaroscuro techniques here. As a naturalistic 0 Bernini’s St Teresa Ecstasy of shaft of light spills from Christ to his The saint here is being pierced by chosen chronicler, St Matthew, who a smirking angel’s lance, and is is sitting at a table with four other Bernini at his theatrical best. He sets men, Caravaggio captures the this religious ecstasy on a stage precise moment of Matthew’s flanked by opera boxes from which conversion from tax collector to members of the commissioning Evangelist (see p89). Cornaro family look on (see p137).  58 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything Villas and Palaces 4 Villa Torlonia Via Nomentana 70 • Open 9:30am–7pm Tue–Sun • www.museivillatorlonia.it An aristocratic estate created in the 19th century for a wealthy banker, Prince Giovanni Torlonia, this sprang to fame in the 1920s when it was rented out to Mussolini. He lived here until he was ousted in 1943. The park is open to the public, and there are several small museums, including the innovative Technotown (see p70). Fresco at Villa Farnesina Villa Farnesina 1 A little gem of gracious living, 5 Palazzo Farnese Considered the Renaissance palace par excellence, this reflects decorated by some of the greatest the genius of Antonio da Sangallo the artists of the Renaissance, including Younger and Michelangelo. Home to Raphael. The loggias are now one of Rome’s most unscrupulous glassed in to protect the precious families, it was commissioned in frescoes, but they were originally 1517 by Alessandro Farnese, later open, embodying the ideal of Pope Paul III (see p110). blending indoor and outdoor spaces – a concept borrowed from ancient Roman villa designers (see p143). 6 Palazzo Barberini When Maffeo Barberini became Pope Urban VIII in 1623, he 2 Palazzo del Campidoglio When Emperor Charles V visited Rome in 1536, Pope Paul III was so embarrassed at the Capitol’s state that he enlisted Michelangelo’s help. Work started 10 years later, but Michelangelo died long before its completion. True to his design, however, are the double flight of steps for the Palazzo Senatorio, the addition of Palazzo Nuovo, the fine façades and placement of ancient sculptures (see p107). 3 Galleria Doria Pamphilj Occupying an entire block of Via del Corso, this vast palazzo is still owned by the Doria Pamphilj family. In 1940, it was stormed by Nazi troops, but the labyrinthine layout allowed the family to escape. The palace, and its superb art collection – including the Portrait of Innocent X by Velázquez and Rest on the Flight into Egypt by Caravaggio – are open to the public (see p97). Galleria Doria Pamphilj  Villas and Palaces ❮❮ 59 0 metres 500 2 km V IA 1 km ATI VI O A RZ I . PR V. D TINO D DEL T. U 0 yards 500 EN PIAZZA MA S C R O FA GO E EM M N BARBERINI LU re CL AC ve COR RE E L LO Te VE EL T TE E CAS E LI TON SO T EV E R GO TRI LU N G O e LU N F ium DEL E VIA AL DELLA ON A DI N Giardini del IN TO R IR NG OTE V E R E PIAZZA TT E Quirinale Q U LU PONTE COLONNA URA L VIA DEI CORONARI D. M TREVI E VIA D A CO VI VIA VI LE RS V IA A PIAZZA DELLA A O D N VI O . ROTONDA O PIAZZA ZI X I V M AG G I VI G OV A DEL TT ER NAVONA A LU NO N VIA D I T O R R E O PIGNA GI NG RI VE A UL O COR VI OT CC HIO IA .D VIA X EMA .S SO NUE AN A LE PERN II PA N IS GA PARIONE V IA LL PIAZZA O LARGO DI VENEZIA MONTI NG TORRE LU LU N CAMPO DE' VI OT ARGENTINA MA R CELLO A FIORI GO VI TE EV A R GI OU VE ER DE C AV U L EI T RE E A I VIA D I A EB FO UL RI EN DI IM O AR D AL PE D. I TR AR RI EA F NE AL I VIA V. D. T SI NA CAMPITELLI decided to build a family palace on the (then) edge of town. Architect Carlo Maderno designed it as an outsize country villa with three floors of arcades. Bernini added the square staircase on the left; Borromini the spiral staircase on the right (see p137). 7 Villa Giulia Intended for hedonistic pleasure, this was a perfect papal retreat where Pope Julius III could indulge his tastes for young boys and Classical statuary. Designed by Vignola, Ammannati and Vasari, this 16th-century marvel is all loggias, fountains and gardens (see pp40–41). 8 Palazzo della Cancelleria One of the loveliest palaces from the Early Renaissance (late 1400s) – the Decorated passage, Villa Giulia purity of its façade and courtyard is unparalleled. Several ancient monu- ments were pillaged to provide the 0 Palazzo Venezia Built for the Venetian cardinal marble and the 44 portico columns Pietro Barbo, Rome’s first great inside (see p110). Renaissance palace (1455–64) is usually attributed to two Florentine 9 Palazzo Spada Built around 1550 for a wealthy architects, Alberti and Maiano. You can admire the beautiful palm court cardinal, the architect unknown, this with its 18th-century fountain from palace has one of the most ornate the museum café. Outside, Piazza Renaissance façades in Rome, Venezia is the de facto centre of featuring reliefs that evoke the city’s Rome and converging point of traffic glorious past. However, the courtyard that is conducted with balletic brio by is the masterpiece, with its figures a white-gloved policeman during of the 12 Olympian gods (see p110). rush hour (see p110).  60 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything Squares and Fountains LU N H E L A N MIC ARE CES VI A D Villa GO L IO G IU Borghese LE T E V G E LO V IA E LL A ERE VI A PRATI CAMPO LU N V IA LU G IU L I NZO DE R IE NG MARZIO L VIT GO DI BA OT A TO COL ANA BU T. I N . D. E RIO IN V IA BR O VE N AU GUSTA M E LL I NI M TE ET VIA CRESCENZI T O O SE VIA CITTÀ DEL BORGO XX VATICANO TON E A V I PIAZZA DELLA L LO C A S TE TRI DEL T. DEL NGO REPUBBLICA LU VIA VE R E E L U N G O T EN O N A AL TOR D I IN LU TREVI COR PIAZZA IR LE N G O T. U A Q N PONTE DELLA CO RS O SO O ROTONDA ZI V. D. VI A N G IA TT OR IO E PIGNA A VI NIC RNA F i u LE N MA NUE ISPE PA N O PARIONE L E II m e SE PIAZZA VIA LU N VENEZIA Te G ULA VI R OU OT r A C AV LU ve G T DE LO .D e EN N O IF VIA EI EL OR AR TE A RC .F II . B Gianicolo M D VIA AR D. MA PE LD NE I LUNGOT RI SIN .D AL I I LD BA . A RI A G . RO 0 metres 800 CAMPITELLI PIAZZA DEL GA V I CE E AT COLOSSEO N CI V. D. T 0 yards 800 TRASTEVERE 1 Piazza Navona The elongated oval of Rome’s Rome’s oldest obelisks. The 1200 BC Rameses II monolith was originally loveliest square hints that it is built brought to the Circus Maximus by atop Domitian’s ancient stadium (see Emperor Augustus, then placed p92). This pedestrian paradise is here by Pope Sixtus V (see p116). filled with cafés, street artists and splashing fountains. Bernini created the central Fountain of Four Rivers, 4 Trevi Fountain Tradition holds that if you and added the Moor figure to the throw coins into this 1732 Nicola most southerly of the piazza’s other Salvi fountain, you ensure a return to fountains, constantly altered from Rome. Ingeniously grafted on to the the 16th to 19th centuries (see p89). back of a palazzo (even the window- sills mutate into rough rocks), the 2 Campo de’ Fiori This “field of flowers” bursts Trevi marks the end of the Acqua with colour during the morning Trevi market, and again after dark when Fountain its pubs and bars make it a centre of Roman nightlife. The dour hooded statue overlooking all is in honour of Giordano Bruno, a theologian who was burned at the stake here for his progressive heresies in 1600 during the Counter-Reformation (see p107). 3 Piazza del Popolo Architect Giuseppe Valadier expanded this site of festivals and public executions into an elegant Neo-Classical piazza in 1811–23, adding four Egyptian-style lion fountains to the base of one of  Squares and Fountains ❮❮ 61 from all over the world. The piazza has been at the heart of tourist and expatriate Rome since the 18th century, when artists, musicians and writers ranging from Keats, Shelley and Byron to Goethe, Liszt and Wagner flocked to the city. Come here early in the day to avoid the crowds (see p115). 9 Piazza Farnese One of Rome’s most refined The lovely Piazza di Spagna urban spaces, Piazza Farnese is dominated by two fountains incorpo­ Vergine aqueduct, built by Agrippa in rating giant granite bath tubs from 19 BC from a spring miraculously the Baths of Caracalla. Overlooking discovered by a virgin (see p115). the piazza is Palazzo Farnese, whose ceilings, frescoed by Annibale 5 Piazza San Pietro Bernini’s immense colonnade, Caracci, are illuminated every night so that they can be seen through the 196 m (640 ft) across, encircles unshuttered windows. the piazza. Its perfect ellipse is confirmed by the optical illusion of disappearing columns viewed by standing at one of the focus points – marble discs set between the central 1st­century BC obelisk, carved in Egypt for a Roman Prefect, and the two fountains: Bernini’s on the left, Fontana’s on the right (see p16). 6 Fontana delle Tartarughe Giacomo della Porta designed this delightful fountain between 1581 and 1584. The turtles (tartarughe) struggling up over the lip, however, were added in 1658, perhaps by Bernini (see p109). 7 Piazza Barberini This busy piazza is centred on Bernini’s Triton Fountain (1642–3), Fountains at the Piazza Farnese the merman spouting water from a conch shell. Commissioned by Pope Urban VIII, it features large bees – 0 Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere his family symbol – on its base. A perfect neighbourhood square: There are more chubby Barberini cafés, shops, a fine restaurant and bees, poised as if to take a sip of a 17th­century palazzo abutting water, on the other Bernini fountain a medieval church, its mosaics across the piazza (see p138). romantically floodlit at night. A fountain fitted with shells by Carlo 8 Piazza di Spagna Overlooked by shuttered Fontana (1682) atop a pedestal of stairs serves as benches for back­ russet, cream and mustard palazzi, packers to strum guitars and tourists Piazza di Spagna attracts visitors to eat ice cream (see p143).  62 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything Underground Sights before being winched up to the arena, and released through a trapdoor. Archers stood by in case any of the beasts escaped (see p26). 4 Palazzo Valentini MAP P3 Via IV Novembre • 119/A • Open 9:30am–6:30pm Wed–Mon • Adm • www. palazzovalentini.it Below Palazzo Valentini were found not only Roman villas but also layers San Clemente church of detritus. Archaeologists concluded that the site was a Renaissance 1 San Clemente The many layers of this rubbish dump. A section has been replicated, using original finds – fascinating church reveal the shells and bones – useful indicators changing ideals of Rome in various about the Renaissance diet (see p49). eras (see p51). 2 Appian Way Catacombs 5 Vatican Grottoes The famous Red Wall behind San Sebastiano: Via Appia which St Peter was supposedly Antica 136 • Open 10am–5pm Mon– buried was discovered under the Sat • Adm • San Callisto: Via Appia Vatican in the 1940s (see p17). Antica 110 • 9am–noon, 2–5pm daily. Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 25 Dec & around 29 Jan–25 Feb • Adm • Domitilla: Via delle Sette Chiese 282 • Open Feb–Dec: 9am–noon, 2–5pm Wed– Mon • Adm Underground cemeteries outside the city walls were created in accordance with the laws of the time, not as a response to suppression. San Sebastiano has some well-preserved stucco, while San Callisto’s walls have early Christian art. Domitilla is Rome’s largest and oldest catacomb network, and the only one to still contain bones. Frescoes of both Classical and Christian scenes can be seen in its passages, including one of the earliest images of Christ as the Good Shepherd. Many of its 1st- and 2nd-century chambers have Fresco, Crypta Balbi no Christian connection; several reli- gions practised burial of this sort. 6 Crypta Balbi MAP M4 Via delle Botteghe • Under the Colosseum 3 In the late 19th century, Oscure 31 • Open 9am–7:45pm Tue– Sun • Adm excavations revealed a network of A jumble of excavations from several tunnels, shafts and corridors. Wild eras, Crypta Balbi includes a piece of animals were kept here in cages 13 BC crypta (porticoed courtyard)  Underground Sights ❮❮ 63 attached to a destroyed theatre. The museum has didactic panels – an TOP 10 VISTAS excellent introduction to Rome’s layer effect – and several interesting medieval frescoes (see p109). 7 Mamertine Prison MAP P5 Clivo Argentario 1 • • Open 9am–5pm daily (7pm in summer) • Adm This was Rome’s ancient central lockdown (built 7th–6th century BC). Among its celebrity inmates were Roman Forum Vercigetorix, a rebel Celtic chieftain, and St Peter, who left an impression 1 Roman Forum from Campidoglio MAP P5 of his face where guards reportedly Walk around the right side of Palazzo slammed him against a wall. Senatorio for a postcard panorama – floodlit at night. 8 Roman Houses under SS Giovanni e Paolo 2 Il Vittoriano Climb the so-called “Wedding Cake” MAP E5 • Clivo di Scauro/Piazza SS (or take the lift) for vistas over the Giovanni e Paolo • 06 7045 4544 Imperial Fora (see p110). • Open 10am–1pm, 3–6pm Thu–Mon • Adm • DA 3 Gianicolo The Eternal City is laid out at your feet The houses under this church from a lover’s lane perch across the belonged to two Constantinian offi­ Tiber (see p145). cials, martyred in AD 362. The build­ 4 The Spanish Steps ings include a frescoed nymphaeum Views spill down the steps to the dating from the 1st to 4th centuries. tourist-filled piazza (see p115). 9 Santa Maria della Concezione 5 Musei Capitolini Café A bird’s-eye sweep over the archaeological park at Rome’s heart MAP E2 • Via Veneto 27 • Open can be seen from here (see p28). 7am–1pm, 3–6pm daily • Adm 6 St Peter’s Dome Among the tenets of the Capuchin St Peter’s Colonnade and Castel Order is the necessity of confronting Sant’Angelo can be seen from the reality of death, the reason why Michelangelo’s Dome (see p16). the Capuchin catacombs below this 7 Knights of Malta Keyhole church contain the skulls and bones St Peter’s Dome is perfectly framed of thousands of dead monks, wired through a gate keyhole in this together into crowns of thorns and garden (see p126). sacred hearts. At the entrance a sign 8 Castel Sant’Angelo Ramparts reads “What you are, we used to be; Lazy Tiber River vistas with the what we are, you will be”. Ponte Sant’Angelo directly underneath (see p144). 0 Mithraeum Prisca under Santa 9 Pincio Valadier carefully designed this view MAP D5 • Via di Santa Prisca 13 • 06 from his gardens, across Piazza del 3996 7700 • Open 2nd and 4th Sat of Popolo to St Peter’s (see p117). the month, 11am and noon. By 10 Villa Mellini reservation only • Adm MAP B1 This 3rd­century AD shrine to A different panorama, near Rome’s Mithraism was popular among observatory above Piazzale Clodio, soldiers and the lower classes while taking in the city and hills beyond from Christianity was gaining status with the northwest. the patricians (see p132).  64 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything Writers in Rome Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, German writer and statesman 1 Goethe The first Grand Tourist, his travelogue Italian Hours. In an 1869 letter he proclaimed “At last – German author Johann Wolfgang for the first time – I live! It beats von Goethe (1749–1832) rented everything: it leaves the Rome of your rooms on the Corso, now a museum fancy – your education – nowhere.” dedicated to his life, between 1786 and 1788 (see p118). His book Italian Journey laid the blueprint for later 4 Nathaniel Hawthorne During his Italian sojourn from tourists who came to Italy to 1857 to 1859, the American man of complete their education. letters (1804–64) was so moved by an ancient sculpture in the Capitoline 2 John Keats The English Romantic poet museums he crafted his final novel The Marble Faun around it. (1795–1821) came to Rome in 1820 for the antiquities and Italian lifestyle – and to bolster his ailing health, 5 Alberto Moravia One of Italy’s top modern which nevertheless failed. Keats authors (1907–90), Moravia wrote died at age 25 of about Rome in tuberculosis in an Racconti Romani, La apartment that over­ Romana, La Ciociara, looked the Spanish Gli Indifferenti and La Steps (see p115). Noia, most of which have been translated 3 Henry James The New York many times. author (1843–1916) spent half his life in 6 Mark Twain The American Europe. Rome features writer (1835–1910) in his novels Daisy spent little time in the Miller and Portrait of a Eternal City during his Lady, and in the essay Grand Tour in 1867, “A Roman Holiday” in Mark Twain but his satirical  Writers in Rome ❮❮ 65 impressions in The Innocents Abroad have become among the most quoted TOP 10 CLASSICAL WRITERS IN ROME and memorable of any visitor. 1 Plautus 7 Edward Gibbon When English parliamentarian Formulaic comedies of errors by Plautus (250–184 BC) influenced Gibbon (1737–94) stood in the Forum Shakespeare. for the first time in 1764, he was 2 Caesar struck by how “...each memorable General, dictator and writer (100–44 spot where Romulus stood, or Tully BC). De Bello Gallico describes his spoke, or Caesar fell, was at once campaigns in Gaul (France), The Civil present to my eye.” He resolved to War his fight against Pompey. write the history of Rome, and in 3 Cicero 1788 finished his seminal work, The Great orator and staunch republican Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire. (106–43 BC). His speeches grant insight into Roman political life. 8 Gore Vidal The prolific American writer 4 Virgil Poet and propagandist (70–19 BC). His (1925–2012) was a resident of Rome epic The Aeneid tied Rome’s foundation and Ravello, south of Naples, for to the Trojan War. decades. His Roman experiences 5 Ovid informed such books as The Greatest Roman Classical poet (43 BC– Judgment of Paris, Julian and his AD 17). His Metamorphoses codified memoir Palimpsest. many Roman myths, but Ars Amatoria detailed how to entice women and got him exiled. 6 Tacitus Tacitus (55–117) wrote Annals and Histories covering Rome’s early Imperial history; Life of Agricola his father-in- law’s governorship of Britain. 7 Juvenal Romans invented satire; Juvenal (60– 130) perfected the form in his poems. 8 Pliny the Younger The letters (Epistulae) of Pliny (61–113) give us a glimpse of imperial society. Romantic poet Lord Byron 9 Suetonius Lord Byron 9 The ultimate Romantic poet Historian (70–125) who wrote the lives of the Caesars. (1788–1824) who lived, to varying 10 Petronius degrees, the cavalier life so beloved Petronius (70–130) parodied Roman by his genre. He spent years in Italy life in Satiricon. in the company of the Shelleys and Virgil other friends, and based a large part of Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage and Don Juan on his experiences here. 0 Percy Bysshe Shelley The English Romantic poet (1792–1822) lived in Italy with his wife Mary from 1818 until he drowned near Pisa. He visited Rome often, and penned the masterpiece The Cenci about the scandal of Roman patrician Beatrice Cenci.  66 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything Off the Beaten Track the living. The spookiest examples on display are the handprints burned onto surfaces. 3 Villa Poniatowski Piazzale di Villa Giulia 34 • 06 4423 9949 • Open 9am–1:30pm Tue–Sat, Sun by appt only • Adm The beautifully restored frescoed rooms of this villa create an evoca- tive context for Etruscan exhibits. Highlights are a tomb carved from a tree trunk, fine gold jewellery and decorated make-up containers. 4 San Teodoro MAP P6 Via di San Teodoro 7 • • Open 9:30am–12:30pm Sun–Fri Fontana delle Rane, Piazza Mincio This circular 6th-century Greek Orthodox church is one of Rome’s 1 Quartiere Coppodè Between Via Salaria and hidden treasures. St Theodore was martyred on this spot, and the Via Tagliamento church was built into the ruins of a A bijou neighbourhood of elaborate grain warehouse that stood here. Art Nouveau palazzi and villas The apse mosaic showing Christ designed by Gino Coppodè. This is seated on an orb is original. architecture at its most fanciful and eclectic, inspired by Assyria, ancient Greece and Gothic fairytale. The 5 Auditorium of Maecenas MAP F4 Largo Leopardi 2• • Fontana delle Rane in Piazza Mincio 06 0608 • Guided tours by appt only leapt to fame when the Beatles (call the day before) jumped in after playing a gig nearby. A bon viveur and patron of the arts, Maecenas was famous at the time of 2 Museo delle Anime del Purgatorio 4 MAP L1 • Lungotevere Flaminio Trieste Pairoli A Prati 12 • 06 6880 6517 AN NT ME • Open 7:30–11am, 4:30– NO Fi u m e VIA 7:30pm daily Stazione Salario The neo-Gothic church of Roma-Viterbo Nomentano Te v e Prati Sacro Cuore del Suffragio r 5 e hosts Rome’s most Vatican City Trevi Stazione Centrale Roma Termini A2 4 Parione arcane museum. After a Tiburtino church fire in 1897, priest Monti Victor Jouet became Esquilino convinced that certain Trastevere Celio 6 scorch marks showed the face of a soul in Testaccio V I A T US C purgatory, and started Stazione OL AN A 3km VIA collecting objects he 7 0 km 1 Roma-Ostiense AP PIA believed were proof of AN 0 miles 1 TIC the dead trying to contact A  Off the Beaten Track ❮❮ 67 Emperor Augustus for his lavish parties. This space is thought to have been a summer dining room. The walls retain traces of exquisite trompe l’oeil windows with views of gardens, flowers and birds. 6 Museo delle Mura MAP F6 Via di Porta San • Sebastiano 18 • Open 9am–2pm Tue–Sun • www.museodelle muraroma.it Porta San Sebastiano is the most impressive surviving gate in the Aurelian Walls. It now houses a small museum housing prints and models that illustrate the history Ancient corridors, Da Pancrazio of the walls (see p157). Pollaro. Its fabric is now visible only in the ancient travertine corridors of the downstairs rooms of the Da Pancrazio restaurant. 9 Museo Criminologico MAP J3 Via del Gonfalone 29 • • 06 6889 9442 • Open 9am–1pm Tue–Sat, 2:30–6:30pm Tue and Thu • Adm • www.museocriminologico.it Part of a former prison, the museum is devoted to crime and punishment. Catacombs of Priscilla It includes replicas of medieval instruments of torture and items 7 Catacombs of Priscilla Via Salaria 430 06 8620 6272 • confiscated from prisoners, including a letter written on a pair of under­ • Open 9–noon, 2–5pm Tue–Sun • pants and a knife inside a hairbrush. Adm • www.catacombepriscilla.com Few people visit the Catacombs of Priscilla, which date back to the 1st 0 Cinecittà si Mostra Via Tuscolana 1055 06 722931 • century AD. Benedictine nuns take • Open 9:30am–7pm Wed–Mon, visitors on fascinating tours that guided tours only (at 11:30am and include the tombs of over 3:15pm in English) • Adm • 40,000 Christians and cinecittasimostra.it the earliest known Step behind the scenes at image of the Italy’s legendary film studio. Madonna and Tours of film sets take in Child. a Broadway created for 8 Theatre Pompey of director Martin Scorsese’s MAP L4 • Da Pancrazio: 2002 Gangs of Piazza del Biscione 92 New York and • Open 12:30–2:30pm, an ancient Rome 7:30–11pm Thu–Tue made of polystyrene built for A hint of Pompey’s 61–55 BC the television series Rome, but theatre is evident in the Cinecittà si also used for other shows medieval curve of Largo del Mostra including Doctor Who.  68 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything Green Spaces 0 metres 800 Villa 2 km Borghese VIAL 0 yards 800 V. SA LA E PIAZZA DEL POPOLO DE O E LUN L TO RT BR PRATI CAMPO MU LUDOVISI EM RIA A ZO G RO R IE N TT V. D. RIPETT OT DI MARZIO SE .D A CO L VI A .M V IA XX E LL I N I LE VIA CRE SCE NZI O PIAZZA DI A CA SPAGNA VI VIA CITTÀ DEL SALLUSTIANO ST VATICANO re RO ve O PIAZZA DELLA Te A R ONE E ZI PIAZZA e DEL T R IT AL REPUBBLICA DEL PRE S. PIETRO F i u mN G O T. M V IA IR IN E BORGO LU AL TO U N TREVI Q D. IO RIO COR UR PONTE V. AZ CO VO O PIAZZA N RS CA SO VI NAVONA A TT VI A OR PIGNA VI IO E A MA NUE PIAZZA PERN PA N IS ESQUILINO LU L E II VENEZIA V IA MONTI NG LU NG UL A VIA PIAZZA OT D. VIA VITTORIO OUR .D FO OT C AV EN EMANUELE II O RI .F .D IM V IA AR AR EB LL .T SI PE NE AL DI MARCE VIA NA DI RI AL ME I I LD RU CAMPITELLI BA PIAZZA DEL V IA LA D . T E AT RO RI COLOSSEO L A B IC GA NA ANA RE O RI O G. TRASTEVERE VIA VE VIA TE G S. G RE CLA VI V. AS A M DE TR UD AS L D. SI CIR IA V. D I M C LE O O VI A 3 km 1 Villa Borghese Extensive, elegant and full of 3 Pincio The traditional time to enjoy shady glades and beautiful fountains, the most famous panorama of Rome this is a great park for a stroll, a is at sunset. Other charms at these picnic or a jog. You can also go terraced gardens – a walkers’ boating on the artificial lake, and rent favourite – include the water clock, a bicycle or in-line skates (see p117). the busts of various notables and an Egyptian-style obelisk Emperor Hadrian erected on the tomb of his beloved Antinous (see p117). 4 Villa Doria Pamphilj Rome’s largest green area, extending from the Gianicolo along the ancient Via Aurelia. It’s a terrific place for a run and offers a course of exercise posts. Its hills are adorned with villas, fountains, lakes and orangeries and are perfect for strolls, or you can enjoy a picnic Villa Celimontana under the umbrella pines (see p146). 2 Villa Celimontana Orto Botanico MAP E5 Piazza della Navicella 5 The graceful botanical gardens • 12 • Open dawn–dusk • DA and grounds of Palazzo Corsini Picnics have been a tradition here provide one of the most enjoyable since 1552, when the Mattei family places to while away an hour or two gave pilgrims a simple meal during and breathe in air richly perfumed by the Visit of the Seven Churches more than 7,000 plant species that begun by Filippo Neri. Lovely dinner- thrive here. The gardens, which now concerts are held here in summer. belong to the University of Rome,  Green Spaces ❮❮ 69 include indigenous and exotic you can also examine the massive varieties, grouped according to remains of the Baths of Trajan ecosystems (see p146). scattered about the area. 6 Villa Sciarra MAP C5 Via Calandrelli • 9 Parco della Caffarella Via della Caffarella • Open dawn–dusk DA • • www.caffarella.it This small park is replete with Combining farmland and wilderness fountains, gazebos, ponds, loggias with abundant wildlife, these fields and statuary. There are leafy lanes and meadows are dotted with the for walking and lawns for relaxing remains of Roman temples. There is and enjoying a picnic. It’s a good also a large children’s playground. place for children, too. 7 Villa Ada MAP E1 Via Salaria 265 • • Open dawn–dusk • DA This huge public park, originally the hunting reserve of King Vittorio Emanuele III, has rolling lawns, serene waters and copses. It’s worth the trip out if you need an antidote to the fumes and noise of the city. On summer nights the lake at the northern end of the park hosts Fountain, Parco Savello, Aventine food stalls and concerts. Parco del Colle Oppio 8 MAP E4 0 Aventine MAP D5 Via del Circo Massimo • • Via Labicana • DA One of the seven hills of Rome, After hours of walking around the the Aventine is lush, leafy and little- Forum and the Colosseum in the trafficked. With romantic fin de siècle high summer heat, these green villas set among public gardens, it slopes can be a welcome sight. Most is a haven from city chaos. The roses of the Colle Oppio park is actually the of the Roseto Comunale are in flower roof of Nero’s Golden House (see in May and June; up the hill is Parco p27), and you can see skylight Savello, also known as the Giardino structures for its rooms. If you degli Aranci, planted with orange haven’t had enough of sightseeing, trees and offering magnificent views. The charming Parco del Colle Oppio  70 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything Rome for Children Exhibit with bubbles at the interactive children’s museum Explora 1 Explora MAP C1 Via Flaminia 80-86 • 4 Bioparco MAP E1 Piazzale del Giardino • • 06 361 3776 • Children must be Zoologico 1 • Open Apr–Oct: accompanied • 1-hour 45-minute 9:30am–6pm Mon-Fri, until 7pm Sat visits 10am (except in Aug), noon, & Sun; Nov–Mar: 9:30am–5pm daily 3pm, 5pm Tue–Sun • Booking recom- • Adm • www.bioparco.it mended • Adm • www.mdbr.it Rome’s once run-down zoo has been Youngsters can interact with life-size overhauled to become a pretty dioramas and models, which give a “biological garden” in a corner child’s eye view of the world. There’s of Villa Borghese park. a popular create-your-own TV show. 2 Villa Borghese Scipione Borghese’s private Renaissance park and the adjacent 19th-century Pincio gardens, with statues and fountains, are a joy to explore, especially on two wheels. There are bike rental stands scattered throughout the park. You can also rent paddle boats for the little lake or take the kids to the park’s small funfair (see pp117). Children’s train at the Bioparco 3 MAXXI Futuristic MAXXI, designed by 5 Technotown MAP F2 Via Lazzaro • Iraqi architect Zaha Hadid, is a Spallanzani 1a • 060608 fabulous building for children to • Open 9am–7pm Tue–Sun • Adm explore, with its illuminated stair- • www.technotown.it ways, suspended walkways, and Occupying a 20th-century house floors that curve up to meet the in the lush Villa Torlonia gardens, walls without a joint. Exhibitions are Technotown is a multimedia play- presented in a way that children will house for kids, with educational and find stimulating and exploration is fun interactive exhibits including made fun with one of the museum’s robotics, special effects and 3D interactive guides (see p156). photography (see p58).  Rome for Children ❮❮ 71 6 Time Elevator MAP D3–4 Via dei Santi • of weapons and artworks that illus- trate the millennia-long history make Apostoli 20 • 06 6992 1823 • Open this an interesting trip for adults too. 10:30am–8:15pm (last show 7:30pm) daily • www.time-elevator.it • Adm • DA 9 Pony Rides Ride a pony in one of Rome’s The panoramic movies shown here parks – short rides are available in come complete with surround- most parks, including Villa Borghese, sound, flight simulator and 5D Villa Celimontana and Villa Lazzaroni. technology. Not advisable for those suffering from motion sickness. 7 Casina di Raffaello MAP D2 Via della Casina di • Raffaello (Villa Borghese) • 06 0608 • Open Mar–Oct: 9am–6pm Tue–Fri, 10am–7pm Sat & Sun; Nov–Feb: 1am–3:30pm, 10am–6pm Sat & Sun • www.casinadiraffaello.it • Adm • DA This city-run playhouse for kids aged 3–10 years offers educational toys Traditional puppets, Gianicolo and games, a toy library, a theatre and a bookshop, plus weekly events and workshops. Park entrance free. 0 Puppet Shows on the Gianicolo MAP B4 • Teatro di Pulcinella, Castel Sant’Angelo 8 MAP J1 • Lungotevere Castello Gianicolo • Shows at 10:30, check days • Free • DA 50 • Open 9am–7:30pm Tue–Sun You can appreciate Punch and Judy Little visitors enjoy spending a few without understanding Italian (the hours at Castel Sant’Angelo with its pugilistic characters are native to winding passageways, hidden Italy). This is the last of the old lookouts, dungeons and moat. The puppet kiosks that once peppered castle has had many uses over the Rome’s public parks, offering years, and the museum’s collection appealing shows for free. VI 1.5 km AL LUN G O T E V E R E D. E I RE IN ZZ GI V IA MA NA VIA VIA M L E G S E P PE AR FLA NA IU A N GH TA SALAR SALARIO CI A M IN ER EN LU N G E L A N ITA MI CH PIN IZ IE M IA N M IL Villa O F VIAL AV I LE N IA EL ium E D Borghese O TE GE L V IA L PIAZZA DEL VI A VI E A POPOLO e VER O EL D RT O I CO PRATI M LUDOVISI LIN E CAMPO UR TO OL IC V IA L E DEL P Te v ZO O R IE N MARZIO DI ere A CO L E V IA BR CASTRO VIA CRE SCE PIAZZA DI SALLUSTIANO EM PRETORIO O NZI O SPAGNA TT A R ZI SE BORGO XX .M PIAZZA V IA ONE A VI V IA OT V I A D. T R IT DELLA CO N C I LI A Z IO N E N G COLONNA DEL REPUBBLICA LU V IA E LE TREVI AL DEL N RI PRE VI LU UI E A PONTE .Q AL GI N G OT TO R CO R CO OV SO PIAZZA V. D ON ZI R AN UR NAVONA IA N VI SO TT NA NI VO .G OR PIGNA A GI O VI CA IO E OL IA MA ER N A LU IT NI NUE PIAZZA N IS P A L E II PA TI NG CO VI VENEZIA V IA T. PARIONE U LA O LE D VI A MONTI ESQUILINO DE LU .T IF EN OR EB NG O I IM AL AR I T. 0 metres 800 D .F PE VIA D AR RI Gianicolo AL NE SIN CAMPITELLI I A PIAZZA DEL COLOSSEO 0 yards 800  72 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything Restaurants 1 La Pergola Uberchef Heinz 4 km PIAZZA U IR IN AL E Beck has been awarded Q VIA DI SPAGNA EL D three Michelin stars for O T. LU N G L L O ONE DEL A CAST E T R IT VI EL 3 km his extraordinary, inno­ E T. T O R V. D AL LU N G O O N A N COR DI N IO UR vative Mediterranean CO AZ VO SO PIAZZA N O RS TREVI CA dishes in this refined VI TT OR IO E NAVONA PIGNA VI A A PIAZZA PERN restaurant at the MA N U ELE VENEZIA V IA PA N IS A II VI U Cavalieri hotel. Service is N VIA L D. PARIONE V IA FO GO RI seamless and unfrosty, IM T. ME TE PE D. BA LU NGO RI AL RU D. C EN T. and the wine cellar is LD I LDI I CI LAN CAMPITELLI BA among Europe’s most PIAZZA DEL V IA E AV E N T I N O A RI LA B IC COLOSSEO AN A GA prestigious (see p153). V IA TRASTEVERE VI A G V. D D E I . .C CE IR RC 2 Imàgo ER CO RE HI M CELIO EV VE AS NG r e OT SIM RIPA LU v e TE MAP D2 • Piazza O Te AS AC e S E TR Trinità dei Monti 6, Hotel ST u m N O V IA LU N GOT. T E F i T U E IN I NT O DI MA Hassler • 06 6993 4726 R E C PO AV RM LE LE • Closed L • €€€ V OR VIA VIA VIA Parco .D ATA Elegant restaurant at the .P TESTACCIO PIAZZA Egerio DI C OR DI PORTA V I A RACALLA TA Hassler hotel (see p170) S. PAOLO A S. S D. T E R M E SE EBA with panoramic views of VIA OST IEN 0 metres 800 S TIA N Rome. Chef Francesco O 0 yards 800 Apreda has won his first Michelin star for his creative Italian fusion cuisine. preparing rich and highly original concoctions of meat, fish and fresh 3 Agata e Romeo Romeo Caraccio runs the vegetables. Don’t miss her heavenly desserts, including the millefoglie – dining room in this Liberty­style made from the lightest puff pastry temple to creative Roman cuisine filled with cream (see p135). near Santa Maria Maggiore. His wife Agata Parisella reigns in the kitchen, 4 IlMAPPagliaccio J3 Via dei Banchi Vecchi • 129a • 06 6880 9595 • Closed Sun, Mon • €€€ Tiny, exclusive and understated restaurant in the centro storico with two Michelin stars for its inventive and refined contemporary Italian fusion food. Book well in advance as there are only 28 places. 5 Open Colonna Housed in the rooftop conservatory of Palazzo della Esposizioni, Antonio Colonna’s high­ level restaurant has the advantage of being particularly affordable at lunchtime with a stellar all­you­can­ eat buffet at only €30. Pleasant ambience, great service, and Intimate Il Pagliaccio amazing views (see p141).  Restaurants ❮❮ 73 The chic modern decor of Glass Hostaria 6 Glass Hostaria MAP K2 Vicolo del Cinque 58 • restaurants serving haute cuisine at a reasonable price. Trendy Pigneto • 06 5833 5903 Closed Mon, L • is an arty neighbourhood that’s quite • No credit cards • €€€ some distance from the centre of the Cutting edge, contemporary chic city, but the trek is definitely worth it. partnered with exquisite, intelligent Every dish is beautifully presented fusion food that has won chef and the service is friendly and Cristina Bowerman a Michelin star professional. Their tiramisu, served in the heart of Trastevere (see p153). in a chocolate and sea salt shell, is legendary (see p159). 7 Pipero al Rex MAP F3 Via Torino 149, Hotel • Rex • 06 481 5702 • Closed Sun • No credit cards • €€€ This Michelin-starred restaurant is a must for gourmet carnivores. The tasting menu is well worth considering, offering the chance to taste sophisticated and innovative combinations such as suckling pig with a beer and cherry sauce. 8 Antica Pesa MAP C4 Via Garibaldi 18 • • 06 580 9236 • Closed Sun • €€€ Interior of Primo al Pigneto Many Hollywood names have dined here, as attested to by the pictures at the entrance. A classy ambience, 0 Eataly Piazzale 12 Ottobre 1492 contemporary frescoes and a lovely • 06 9027 9201 € • garden act as the perfect backdrop Sponsored by Slow Food, Rome’s for the high quality Roman cuisine. Eataly is the flagship for this chain of Extensive but pricey wine list. gastronomic emporia (also at Piazza della Repubblica 41). Everything 9 Primo al Pigneto Italy’s top gourmet guide, from sustainable fish and Gragnano pasta to Alpine ice cream is on offer. Gambero Rosso, listed Primo al Every month a different Roman Pigneto as one of the top ten osteria is hosted on the second floor. For a key to restaurant price ranges see p95  74 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything Roman Dishes 1 Saltimbocca This savoury veal dish is so good they call it “jumps-in-the- mouth”. A veal escalope is layered with sage leaves and prosciutto then sautéed in white wine. 2 Bucatini all’amatriciana Named after Amatrice, the northern Lazio town high in the Abruzzi mountains where it originated. The sauce consists of tomatoes mixed with Italian bacon – Coda alla vaccinara guanciale (pork cheek) or pancetta (pork belly) – laced with chilli pepper and liberally dusted with grated 4 Coda alla vaccinara Oxtail braised in celery and Pecorino romano cheese. The classic tomato broth. Like pajata, this is a pasta accompaniment are bucatini product of trying to make something (thick, hollow spaghetti). The original out of the quinto quarto (the unusable amatriciana bianca version (before “fifth fourth” of the day’s butchering), tomatoes, a New World food, entered which was part of the take-home pay Italian cuisine) adds parsley and butter. of 19th-century slaughterhouse workers. Checchino dal 1887, the restaurant that created this delicacy, is one of Rome’s finest (see p129). 5 Carciofi alla giudia Artichokes, flattened then fried. This typical Roman Jewish dish is often accompanied by fried courgette (zucchini) flowers stuffed with mozzarella cheese and anchovies. 6 Spaghetti alla carbonara Piping hot pasta is mixed with a raw egg, grated Parmesan and black pepper so that the eggy mix- ture cooks with the heat of the pasta. Carciofi alla romana It is then tossed with pieces of pancetta (bacon). One of several 3 Carciofi alla romana Tender Italian artichokes, often laced with garlic and mint, are braised in a mixture of olive oil and water. Spaghetti alla carbonara  Roman Dishes ❮❮ 75 stories has it that the recipe was born out of US army rations after TOP 10 WINES AND LIQUEURS World War II, but no one seems to 1 Frascati have proven or discarded the theory. Lazio’s only high profile wine, a dry, fruity, not always 7 Pajata It may sound revolting but perfect white from the hills south of Rome. it’s actually delicious: suckling 2 Castelli Romani calf intestines boiled with its Cousin to Frascati from the mother’s milk still clotted inside. neighbouring hill towns Usually the intestines are chopped, and also made with coated with a tomato sauce and Trebbiano grapes. served over pasta. 3 Colli Albani Another Trebbiano-based white 8 Abbacchio scottadito Roasted Roman spring lamb, from the slopes of Lazio’s dormant volcano. so succulent the name claims you’ll 4 Orvieto Classico “burn your fingers” in your haste to Dry white from southern eat it. When abbacchio (lamb) is Umbria – so good that unavailable, once the spring Glass of the Renaissance artist slaughter is over, they switch to less grappa Signorelli once accepted tender agnello (young mutton). it as payment. 5 Est! Est! Est! A bishop’s taste-tester, sampling this sweet white in a northern Lazio lakeside village, excitedly ran to the door and scribbled “Est! Est! Est!” (Latin for “This is it!”). 6 Torre Ercolana One of Lazio’s unsung reds, made from Cabernet and Cesanese grapes. 7 Chianti A bowl of gnocchi in sauce This old favourite from over the border in Tuscany is one of the most common 9 Gnocchi Dense and bite-sized potato reds you’ll find in Rome’s bars and restaurants. and flour dumplings, gnocchi origi- 8 Lacrima Christi nated in Northern Italy but have “Tears of Christ”, a infiltrated nearly every regional white wine from the slopes of the infamous cuisine. Rome’s version of the dish is Mount Vesuvius near made with semolina and/or corn Pompeii (see p158). flour, doused in butter and parmesan and oven-baked. The original gnocchi 9 Campari A bitter red are served much more frequently, apéritif, best however. Try them with tomato diluted in soda sauce, gorgonzola cheese or simply water, or burro e salvia (with butter and sage). lemonade for a sweet drink. 0 Cacio e Pepe Sometimes the simplest 10 Grappa The most powerful of dishes are the best. Perfectly al dente Italy’s digestivi (drunk (“with a bite”) spaghetti is tossed hot after a meal), this is quite with cracked black pepper and a harsh-tasting liqueur. grated Pecorino romano (a local Campari sharp, aged sheep’s milk cheese rather similar to Parmesan).  76 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything Osterias, Trattorias and Pizzerias 1 Casa e Bottega MAP K2 Via dei Coronari 183 • • 06 686 4358 • Open daily • € Chic and contemporary new-wave osteria a short distance from Piazza Navona in which carefully sourced, top-quality ingredients, including gourmet eggs by legendary egg chef Paolo Parisi, bring traditional Roman dishes such as spaghetti carbonara to new heights (see p95). 2 Roscioli MAP L4 Via dei Giubbonari • 21–5 • 06 687 5287 • Closed Sun Menus outside Casa e Bottega • €€ Casual and very popular osteria-deli- mozzarella that is flown in several wine bar run by the family who make times a week from Puglia and served some of the best bread and pizza in with a rich fig jam (see p95). Rome (see p112). Come for a snack or a full meal – the carbonara is highly recommended. 4 Felice MAP D6 • Via Mastro Giorgio 29 • 06 574 6800 • Open daily; closed Aug • € This Testaccio trattoria is famous for two things – grumpy owners and excellent, utterly traditional Roman food centering on meat and offal – given its proximity to the one-time slaughterhouse. Book in advance. Classics are tonnarelli cacio e pepe, lamb baked with potatoes, carciofi alla romana and offal cooked in a variety of ways (see p129). Deli products on sale at Roscioli 3 Casa Bleve 5 Sora Margherita MAP M4 Piazza delle Cinque • National prize-winning Scole 30 • 06 687 4216 • Open Mon– gourmet osteria run by Anacleto Thu L, Mon–Sat D • € Bleve, one of Rome’s most respected This tiny, traditional, no-frills osteria foodies and a pioneer in the rigorous has a cult following. Instagram it in sourcing of ingredients from local, black and white and your friends will artisanal producers. Try the sfizi di Casa Bleve, a visual and olfactory Margherita feast of innovative antipasti, pizza such as pumpkin flower stuffed with pistacio and ricotta. Ask if they have burrata, a creamier variant of  Osterias, Trattorias and Pizzerias ❮❮ 77 be convinced you walked 0 metres 800 PRATI VI onto a neo-Realist film A 0 yards 800 N ZO DE RIE L DI set. Food is hearty BA A CO L BU V IA CAMPO IN Roman-Jewish – home- O MARZIO made pasta (an excellent BORGO VIA CITTÁ DEL O T. LU N G L L O cacao e pepe); stuffed, VATICANO PIAZZA CAST E DEL S. PIETRO deep-fried courgette PIAZZA flowers; and anchovies NAVONA CO COR I VI O RS VI baked with endive. They TT SO Fiu O OR O RI IO E MA m N U ELE don’t accept credit cards EG PIAZZA e LU N II U VENEZIA Te N PARIONE GR L VIA (see p113). ve GO G . D re T. OT T D. .F EB Gianicolo AR AL Da Giovanni N DI 6 MAP J4 DI E S I N A L IBA O AV E N T I N • Via della R GA V I A A U R E L I A ANT TRASTEVERE V IA G . Lungara 41• 06 686 1514 IC A RE • Open Mon–Sat • € Villa Doria RE VE Pamphilj VE TE V I A L E D E I Q U AT T R O V E N T I This tiny trattoria has a TE IA AS GO LL RIPA TR TE N lovely atmosphere and LU VI E NS V IA serves up simple pasta UE A VI DI IO C RT MA C PO dishes and legume TA RM ES DO OR LU N G OT. T VI N A O soups, ideal for lunch VIA N A ATA VIALE D I LIM after seeing the Vatican TESTACCIO PIAZZA DI PORTA PI A and St Peter’s. Utter S. PAOLO authenticity – decor, food and staff could all belong to the 1950s. Bonci is known as “the Michelangelo Prices too remain low (see p152). of pizza”. Toppings range from classic margherita to ricotta, black La Gatta Mangiona 7 Via F Ozanam 30/32 • 06 534 pepper and courgette. Also try their supplì (croquette-type antipasti) and 6702 Open 7:45–11:30pm Tue–Sun • range of regional beers and drinks. • € Da Remo Head to Monteverde Nuovo for one of the best pizzas in Rome. Slow-rise 0 MAP D6 • Piazza Santa Maria pizza dough, specially selected Liberatrice 44 • 06 574 6270 • Open flours, high-crust Neapolitan-style 7pm–midnight Mon–Sat • € pizzas. They offer all the classics, but Ebullient Testaccio pizzeria dishing innovative combinations as well. up scrocchiarella (crispy thin crust) Roman-style pizzas with all the La Pratolina 8 MAP C2 • Via degli Scipioni classic toppings. Great choice for families with children as there is a 248 • 06 3600 4409 • Open playground in the piazza (see p129). 7:30pm–1am Mon–Sat • € Busy and buzzy, this is the perfect place for dinner after a day at the Vatican Museums. Oval-shaped, slow-risen pizza baked in a lava- stone wood-burning oven. Try the Genovese, with mozzarella di bufala, pesto, Pachino tomatoes and ham. 9 Pizzarium MAP A2 Via della Meloria 43 • • 06 3974 5416 • Open 11am–10:30pm Mon–Sat • € The best pizza a taglio (pizza by the slice) in Rome – pizzaiolo Gabriele Chefs at work at Da Remo For a key to restaurant price ranges see p95  78 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything Cafés and Gelaterie The cozy interiors of the 18th-century Antico Caffè Greco 1 Antico Caffè Greco Rome’s 1760 answer to all the can discover the owner’s secret formula. All that is known is that the famed literary cafés of Paris. Just off water comes from an ancient aque- the Spanish Steps on the busiest duct and the brew is pre-sweetened. shopping street in town, it is an Always crowded (see p102). elegant holdover from yesteryear, its tiny tables tucked into a series of genteel, cosy rooms plastered with 3 San Crispino MAP P2 Via della Panetteria 42 • photos, prints and other memorabilia Navigate the glut of inferior ice from the 19th-century Grand Tour cream parlours infesting the Trevi era. The A-list of past customers neighbourhood to reach this runs from Goethe and Wagner to elegantly simple little gelateria. The Byron and Casanova (see p122). signature ice cream contains honey but there are other velvety varieties 2 Caffè Sant’Eustachio Rome’s most coveted made with fresh fruit or nuts and sinful delights laced with liqueurs. cappuccini come from behind a chrome-plated shield that hides the coffee machine from view so no one 4 Tre Scalini This café’s claim to fame is Rome’s most decadent tartufo (truffle) ice cream ball, which is almost always packaged in other outlets. Dark chocolate shavings cover the outer layer of chocolate ice cream, with a heart of fudge and cherries (see p94). 5 Giolitti This 19th-century café is the best known of Rome’s gelaterie. Touristy but excellent (see p102). 6 Doney Caffè Still the top café on the famous Via Veneto, but long past its prime as the heartbeat of Rome’s Rome’s iconic Caffè Sant’Eustachio 1950s heyday (along with the  Cafés and Gelaterie ❮❮ 79 now-defunct manage the family’s original rival Café de Via Veneto café). It sports Paris across 1922 Art Nouveau decor the road) – when and its patrons park their celebrities in sun- newest Ferrari or Lotus glasses hobnobbed convertibles out front (see p122). with starlets at outdoor tables under the mag- nolias. The lifestyle was 8 Gelarmony MAP C2 Via Marcantonio • documented in – and in part Colonna 34 created by – Fellini’s seminal The ingredients at this hugely film La Dolce Vita, whose popular ice cream parlour come shutterbug character directly from Sicily. More than 60 Paparazzo lent a name Gelato flavours are available, and the to his profession of blood- presentation is second to none. Their hound photographers (see p140). pistachio flavour is especially good. 7 Caffè Rosati The older, more left-wing of 9 Grom Artisanal, organic gelato made Piazza del Popolo’s rival cafés (the with top-quality local ingredients is other is Caffè Canova), this was on offer here. The company has its founded by two of the Rosati own organic farm where they grow brothers (a third continued to the fruit they use. Expect long queues (see p102). 0 La Tazza d’Oro Here only top quality Brazilian beans go into the coffee. There’s nothing fancy in this unassuming place and no touristy gimmicks (despite being just off the Pantheon’s piazza). Just a long, undulating bar counter where regulars enjoy a heavenly espresso that, amazingly, manages to be both among the best Local favourite, La Tazza d’Oro and the cheapest in Rome (see p102). PIAZZA DEL POPOLO Villa VI AL Borghese E LU N O PRATI NZO CAMPO DE RT VI R IE LUDOVISI R I P E T TA L VIA TO GO A LU DI MARZIO M URO NG TE VI A COL DE VE A OT DEL L V IA RE EV VI BA ER IN TT VIA DI BU E D COR OR AU G IN O EI M IO PIAZZA DI SO US TA SPAGNA VE EL L I N I NE I VIA CRE SCE TT O T O NZI O PIAZZA ND CO CAVOUR VIA VI VIA TOMA CELLI A AT I ZIO DU D. N O E PR V I AE N T I PIAZZA AR T. M S C R O FA BARBERINI AC O EM M NG e CL EL LU er RE LI ELL O v E E C AST Te EV COLONNA PIAZZA SAN ITO N VIA OT E V E RE OT SILVESTRO TR LUNG e NG DEL LE LU Fi u m VIA A DELLA A IN DI NO N IR RE TOR U LU N G O T E V E E Q DEL UR AT T EL VIA DEI CORONARI D. M TREVI D VIA CORSO D. RINASCIMEN A VIA PONTE VI VI A PIAZZA DEL CO RS PIAZZA D. QUIRINALE VI O D. GO COR A VI VE ROTONDA TT GI RN OR 0 metres 500 UL O SO IO V E CC HIO IA EM PARIONE AN UEL PIGNA E II 0 yards 500 TO  80 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything Shopping Streets 1 Piazza di Spagna This is Rome’s prime designer shopping area, with Fendi, Versace and Ferrè on Via Borgognona; Gucci, Bulgari, Prada, Hermès, Ferragamo, Trussardi and Valentino on Via Condotti; Chanel and Tiffany & Co on elegant Via del Babuino; and Fendi, Missoni and Krizia on the piazza itself. Babuino and Via Margutta also have some superb art, antique and furniture shops – don’t miss nos. 45, 86 and 109 on Margutta (see p120). 2 Via dei Coronari Named for the rosary makers and sellers that used to line the way when it was on the main pilgrimage route to St Peter’s, this street now has a reputation for antiques. Prices, Vintage store, Via dei Coronari however, are usually inflated and most pieces imported (see pp92–3). selection of clothing, jewellery and home accessories by upcoming 3 Via del Governo Vecchio Running behind Piazza designers and artisans. Head to Via dei Serpenti and Via Leonina. Navona, this street has long been known for its vintage clothes shops, now joined by one-off shops devoted 5 Via del Corso MAP N1–3 to funky new designers. Up and down Rome’s central axis street that bisects the north from the 4 Monti MAP R4 south, more commonly known as the Corso, you’ll find the entire range of Lying behind the Imperial Fora, shopping options. Music stores and Monti is Rome at its most hip, with trendy young styles predominate. vintage clothes shops and an eclectic There are also good shoe shops. Fashion retailer offering trendy young styles, Via del Corso  Shopping Streets ❮❮ 81 6 Trastevere Reflecting the area’s changing TOP 10 MARKETS demographics, jewellery, book, food and boho clothes shops now rub shoulders with niche designers. Piazza San Cosimato has a small, bustling daily produce market and Porta Portese a vibrant Sunday morning flea market (see p142). 7 Via Appia Nuova A popular shopping street in Flea market, Porta Portese the San Giovanni district. There are high-end boutiques as well as small 1 Porta Portese MAP C5 Via Ippolito Nievo retailers, including Leam, Teichner • Mammoth flea market with genuine and Barrita Boutique (see p134). and fake antiques, memorabilia, plants, clothing and more. Sunday morning. 8 Via Cola di Rienzo This is Rome’s best street for 2 Campo de’ Fiori MAP L4 mid-range clothing. Castroni is the Fruit, vegetable and fish market in city’s best shop for hard-to-find an authentic medieval square. international and traditional food 3 Via Mamiani items, while nearby Franchi is Rome’s largest market for the freshest famous for its cheese (see p147). meat and fish. Monday to Saturday mornings (see p134). 4 Via Sannio Vintage clothing and designer fakes. Weekday mornings and Saturday (see p134). 5 Antique Print Market MAP M1 Largo della Fontanella • di Borghese Antique and reproduction prints. Monday to Saturday mornings. 6 Testaccio Market MAP D6 Lavish displays of nature’s bounty. Delicatessen on Via Cola di Rienzo Monday to Saturday mornings. 7 Via Trionfale Flower Market 9 Via Nazionale MAP R2 MAP B2 Fresh cut flowers and all sorts of plants The shops along this busy road from at bargain prices. Tuesday morning. Termini Station to Piazza Venezia 8 Borghetto Flaminio are at last beginning to shed their MAP D1 Adm Piazza della • • frumpiness. Recent arrivals include Marina 32 Desigual, G Star and Furla. A flea market in a former bus depot. Every Sunday, September to July. 0 Campo de’ Fiori Central Rome’s bustling fruit 9 Piazza San Cosimato MAP C5 and veg market sets the tone for this Trastevere’s lively fruit and vegetable area, which is known for its fantastic market. Monday to Saturday mornings. food shops, both traditional and 10 Quattro Coronati innovative. Via Giubbonari is lined MAP E4 with affordable clothes shops, while Quaint produce market. Monday to Via dei Pellegrini and Via dei Ballauri Saturday mornings. have several chic stores (see p107).  82 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything Rome for Free Sphere Within a Sphere by Arnaldo Pomodoro, Vatican Museum 1 Museums for Free State and city museums are 4 World’s Best Preserved Roman Temple free for under 18 and EU students The Pantheon is the only one of studying literary and artistic Rome’s ancient monuments to which subjects. Women can normally enter entry is free. The ancient temple state and city museums for free on was converted to a church in the National Women’s Day, March 8, but Byzantine era (see pp18–19). call 06 0608 to confirm. The Vatican Museums are free on the last Sunday of the month. 5 Mussolini’s Muscle Men Stadio dei Marmi, encircled by 60 travertine muscle-bound athletes, 2 Free Medieval-Style Lie Detection Service was built by Mussolini in the hope of bringing the Olympics to Rome. Now The Bocca della Verità – made an icon of Fascist kitsch, it is free famous by Gregory Peck and Audrey and open to the public (see p157). Hepburn in Roman Holiday – is in the narthex of Santa Maria in Cosmedin. It was believed that if someone told 6 The Caravaggio Trail There are six magnificent a lie while their hand was in Caravaggio canvasses that the mouth, it would be can be seen for free in the bitten off (see p108). churches of San Luigi dei Francesi (see p89), 3 Aerial of the View Sant’Agostino (see p90) and Santa Maria del Forum Popolo (see pp38–9). MAP P4 • Via San Michelangelo Pietro in Carcere • 06 678 0664 • Open 7 for Free 9am–6:30pm daily in Admire Michelangelo summer, 9:30am–5:30pm Bocca della Verità masterpieces for free at daily in winter San Pietro in Vincoli and Entry to the Vittoriano – with some of Santa Maria sopra Minerva. The the best views in Rome – is free, as latter has Michelangelo’s Risen long as you are prepared to walk to Christ (see p97), while his muscle- the top instead of taking the lift. bound Moses was created for San  Rome for Free ❮❮ 83 Pietro and is still there. It does cost 50c to switch the lights on, but there TOP 10 BUDGET TIPS are usually plenty of other people around to take care of that (see p131). 8 Byzantine Splendour Admire magnificent, jewel-like Byzantine mosaics at Santa Maria in Domnica (see p50) and Santa Prassede (see p50), although you’ll need to wait for others to put money in the slot to turn the lights on. 9 StAccess Peter’s to the Basilica, Good-value bakery food 1 The Roma Pass is valid for 3 days Necropolis and Grottoes of St Peter and includes free public transport, free is free, but to make the experience entry to two museums, and discounted special – and avoid the queues that entry at many others. begin to build up from around 9am – 2 Once you have a Roma Pass, plan go early, before breakfast, when ahead to select the most expensive usually the only other people there museums as your free choices. will be nuns, monks, priests and 3 The Roma Archeologia Card, a 7-day pilgrims (see pp16–17). ticket, is valid for the Colosseum, the Palatine, monuments along the Via 0 Contemporary Architecture Appia and the museums of the Museo Nazionale Romano. Although an entrance fee is charged 4 Organise your days to make the for the exhibitions at MAXXI (see most of public transport passes, which pp156–7), MACRO (see p55) and are available for 1, 3 and 7 days. MACRO Testaccio (see p127), there 5 Tickets to the Baths of Caracalla last are usually free video presentations for 7 days and also include entry to the at all three, and large parts of these Mausoleo di Cecilia Metella e la Villa stunning buildings – including dei Quintili, while several museums MACRO’s roof terrace – can be (including the Museo Nazionale enjoyed free of charge. Romano) have multiple sites for which the same ticket is valid. 6 Look out for aperitivo “happy hours”, where customers pay a set price for a drink and can serve themselves from an ample buffet. 7 At restaurants and trattorias, order the house wine – it is served by the quarter, half or litre and is vastly cheaper than bottled wine. 8 Rome is full of marvellous bakeries and delicatessens offering fabulous food for a fraction of the prices charged in cafés and restaurants. 9 To save money when self catering, avoid the centro storico delis and mini-supermarkets. Instead shop at neighbourhood markets such as Piazza Vittorio or Testaccio. 10 Hotel rooms with fridges and roof terraces are ideal for picnic dinners. Intertwining walkways at MAXXI  84 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything Cultural Festivals 1 RomaEuropa Festival End Sep–early Dec • www.romaeuropa.net A fast-growing performing arts festival with a pronounced emphasis on the provocative, held every autumn in various superlative venues, including the French Academy, Palazzo Farnese and the Spanish Academy. All kinds of music, dance and theatre, including several international artists. 2 Eutropia MAP C6 Lungotevere • Testaccio 930 • Jun–Sep • Adm • www.eutropiafestival.it Hosted by Testaccio MACRO and the Rome’s Birthday celebrations recently restored cattle market, this is a contemporary festival devoted to live concerts and DJ sets with the 4 Rome’s Birthday Every 21 April there’s a gala music ranging from reggae and hip civic observance in the Piazza del hop to swing, rock and soul and funk. Campidoglio, in celebration of Roman and international streetfood, Rome’s traditional founding in 753 and free discos and cinema BC (see p46). Music, fireworks, screenings add to the mix. costumed processions and a speech by the mayor mark the event, and 3 Luglio Suona Bene Viale Pietro de Coubertin 30 • the Musei Capitolini (see pp28–9) are free of charge. 06 802 41281 • www.auditorium.com The “July Sounds Good” concert series brings big international 5 Summer Opera Festivals The Rome Opera Company names in pop, jazz and folk music offers its usual summer programme to Auditorium Parco della Musica’s in the Baths of Caracalla (see p119), outdoor arena. with other opera programmes all over the city, and workshops to make opera accessible to all. Singers come from around the globe. 6 ¡inFiesta! Roma and Rock Parco Rosati, Via delle Tre Fontane; Ippodromo delle Capannelle, Via Appia Nuova 1245 • Metro Colli Albani then bus • www.fiesta.it, www.rockinroma.com • mid-Jun– mid-Aug The converted racetrack of Capannelle hosts Rock in Roma, bringing world- renowned rock stars to the outdoor stage, while ¡Fiesta! at Parco Rosati celebrates Latin American culture in Performance, Luglio Suona Bene all its forms.  Cultural Festivals ❮❮ 85 7 Festa dell’Unità Put on by the PD, the former TOP 10 RELIGIOUS FESTIVALS Communist Party, this lively evening event features music, films, dancing, games and more.The venue changes every year, as do the dates, but it’s usually held in a central park from mid-June to late July. 8 Isola Tiberina Isola Tiberina, Lungotevere de’ Cenci Pentecost at the Pantheon Seasonal pop-up bars and cafés on Tiber Island and along the river 1 Pentecost banks every summer. There’s also MAP M3 Whitsunday • live music, a market and an outdoor Rose petals shower down through the film festival (including English- Pantheon’s oculus (see p18), followed by pageantry. language screenings). 2 Christmas Market International Horse MAP L3 1 Dec–6 Jan Piazza 9 • • Show Navona Sugar candy, nativity figurines and all MAP E1 • Piazza di Siena, Villa the Christmas trimmings. Borghese • last week May 3 Epiphany Villa Borghese’s annual splash-out 6 Jan for the equestrian classes, with Friendly witches land in Piazza Navona international showjumping in a to give free candy to children. garden setting. Much of the park is 4 Easter Week closed off for the event and parties. Good Friday Procession of the Cross at the Colosseum and Easter Sunday blessing from the balcony of St Peter’s. 5 Madonna della Neve 5 Aug Commemorating a papal vision of an August snowfall in the 4th century, white petals float down from the ceiling of S Maria Maggiore. 6 Christmas Eve Midnight Mass Most churches celebrate the Saviour’s birth, but tickets are required for St Peter’s. 7 “Urbi et Orbi” The noontime Christmas Day blessing by the pope from St Peter’s balcony. International Horse Show 8 Carnival Late Jan–Feb www.carnevale. 0 May Day Concert • roma.it MAP F5 Piazza S Giovanni • Dressing up, parties and pranks. • 1 May 9 All Souls’ Day Held in front of the Basilica of San 1 Nov Giovanni in Laterano (see p131), this Romans visit the graves of loved ones. is a vast, free event, boasting a line- 10 Feast of Sts Peter and Paul up of top Italian popstars and the MAP D6 28–29 Jun Piazza S Paolo • • occasional international luminary. It’s and Via Ostiense in celebration of socialist Italy’s “Day Fireworks and partying to celebrate of the Worker”, when just about the founders of the Catholic Church. everything shuts down. Rome Area by Area The Spanish Steps at dusk Around Piazza Navona 88 The Esquiline and Lateran 130 Around the Pantheon 96 The Quirinal and Campo de’ Fiori to the Via Veneto 136 Capitoline 106 Trastevere and Prati 142 The Spanish Steps and Villa Borghese 114 Beyond the City Walls 154 Ancient Rome 124  88 ❯❯ Rome Area by Area Around Piazza Navona This is Baroque Rome in all its glory, with curvaceous architecture and elaborate fountains by the era’s two greatest architects, Bernini and Borromini, and churches filled with works by Caravaggio and Rubens. The street The Ganges, plan was overhauled by 16th- to Four Rivers 18th-century popes, although ancient Fountain Rome peeks through in the curve of Palazzo Massimo alle Colonne and the shape of Piazza Navona. This is also a district of craftsmen and antiques restorers, and more recently, a centre of Roman nightlife. AROUND PIAZZA NAVONA R I P E T TA I AT PR IO Top 10 Sights PIAZZA RE BORGHESE re see pp89–91 E e Z EV v O VIA DI Te TIN R OT EN A Places to Eat NG e EM M LU CL see p95 um I Fi VIA D E R E Shops V ZO Ponte E N see p93 Umberto T RIA S C R O FA O EB G NT N DI MO O T The Best of the Rest ET L U VIA V I C . D. L E O N see p92 VIA DELLA Cafés and Bars VIA D E L L' O R S O ME see p94 VI TA S A VIA D. STE TA LLE TTA VIA S ZA IO NA PIAZZA RD V. D. MASCHERA PIAZZA SAN D'ORO COPPELLE PIAZZA S. EL SALVATORE PIAZZA IN LAURO SIMEONE D. TOR LI SANGUIGNA VIA COPPEL LE VIA DEI CORONARI PIAZZA D. CINQUE V I C . D. V VIA LUNE PON T E VI DELLA A LP O D. E CORSO VIA DI S. MARIA MO V I ACC VI NT V C. H A E DOGA D. GIOR D. E BA DA N VIA GIUSTIN IANI NC O HI VIA NA NU PA D. OV CE I VIA E DEL VECC VIA PA R D. IO N VIA D. FILIPPINI V IA D D. T E EL DELL’ HI A C AT R O PA C E GO PI AZZA O V. D. STADERARI RINASCIMENT VE NAVONA PIAZZA R RN S. EUSTACHIO ANIMA S O O VE VI A PIAZZA D. CC A VIA DEI SOR HIO I VIA D. SED IAR D. CHIESA NUOVA CANESTR ARI VIA BA TEATRO VALLE NC V IA VI VIA DEL HI T T OR VE M O NT E R O N E IO CC V IA HI DEL O PEL EM PIAZZA SAN LEG AN RIN U E PANTALEO V LE IA O VI PARI O N E II A M VI O RI A NS LA G DE 0 metres 200 UL IU ER I CA BA RA PP LI EL I DE TO LA 0 yards 200 A RI A VI  Around Piazza Navona ❮❮ 89 frescoes (1616–17) in the second chapel on the right, but everyone makes a beeline for the last chapel on the left, housing three large Caravaggio works. His plebeian, naturalistic approach often ran foul of Counter­Reformation tastes. In a “first draft” version of the Inspiration of St Matthew, called St Matthew and the Angel, the angel guided the hand of a rough labourer­type saint; the commissioners made the artist replace it with this more courtly one (see p52). Underlying sketches in the Martyrdom of St Matthew and the Calling of St Matthew (see p61) show how Caravaggio was moving from symbolism to realism. 4 Sant’Ivo MAP L3 Corso Rinascimento • 40 • Church and courtyard: 9am– noon Sun (closed Jul–Aug) Fountain, Piazza Navona Giacomo della Porta’s Renaissance façade for the 1303 Palazzo della 1 Piazza MAP L3 Navona Sapienza, the original seat of the university of Rome, hides the city’s One of Rome’s loveliest pedestrian most gorgeous courtyard. The squares (see p60) is studded with double arcade is closed at the far fountains and lined with palaces, the end by Sant’Ivo’s façade, an intricate church of Sant’Agnese, and classy Borromini interplay of concave and cafés such as Tre Scalini (see p94). convex curves. The crowning glory is the spiralling ellipse of the dome. 2 Four Rivers Fountain MAP L3 Piazza Navona • The interior, however, is somewhat disappointing despite its Pietro da The statues ringing Bernini’s Cortona altarpiece. When the court­ theatrical 1651 centrepiece sym­ yard is closed, you can see the dome bolize four rivers representing from Piazza Sant’Eustachio. the continents: the Ganges (Asia, relaxing), Danube (Europe, turning to steady the obelisk), Rio de la Plata (the Americas, bald and reeling), and the Nile (Africa, whose head is hidden since the river’s source was then unknown). The obelisk, bal­ ancing over a sculptural void, is a Roman­era fake, its Egyptian granite carved with the hieroglyphic names of Vespasian, Titus and Domitian. 3 San Luigi dei Francesi MAP L2 Piazza S Luigi dei • Francesi 5 • 06 688 271 • Open 10am– 12:30pm, 3–7pm (closed Thu eve) France’s national church in Rome has some damaged Domenichino San Luigi dei Francesi  90 ❯❯ Rome Area by Area THE TALKING STATUES During the Renaissance, the most strident voices against political scandal and papal excess came from statues. Rome’s statue parlanti “spoke” through plaques around their necks by anonymous wags (although Pasquino was a known local barber). Pasquino’s colleagues included Marforio (see p28), Babuino on Via del Babuino and “Madama Lucrezia” on Piazza San Marco. All four have been restored. 5 Sant’Agostino MAP L2 Piazza di • Sant’Agostino 80 • Open 7:30am– noon, 4–7:30pm daily Raphael frescoed the prophet Isaiah (1512) on the third pillar on the right, and Jacopo Sansovino provided the pregnant and venerated Madonna del Palazzo Altemps Parto, but Sant’Agostino’s pride and joy is Caravaggio’s Madonna di Loreto Rome was designing a cloister based (1603–6). The master’s strict realism on ancient examples. It now hosts balked at the tradition of depicting frequent concerts. Mary riding atop her miraculous flying house (which landed in Loreto). The house is merely sug­ 7 Palazzo Altemps This beautiful 15th­century gested by a travertine doorway and palace was overhauled in 1585 by flaking stucco wall where Mary, Martino Longhi, who is probably also supporting her overly large Christ responsible for the stucco and child, is venerated by a pair of travertine courtyard (previously scandalously scruffy pilgrims. attributed to Antonio da Sangallo the Younger or Peruzzi). Its series of 6 Santa Maria della Pace MAP L2 Arco della Pace 5 • • elegant rooms now provide an excellent home to one wing of the Open 9–11:45am Mon, Wed, Sat Museo Nazionale Romano, its Baccio Pontelli rebuilt this frescoed galleries filled with church for Pope Sixtus IV in ancient sculptures (see pp34–7). 1480–84, but the lovely and surprising façade (1656–7), its curved portico squeezed 8 Pasquino MAP L3 Piazza • into a tiny piazza, is a Pasquino Baroque masterpiece by That this faceless and Pietro da Cortona. armless statue was part of Raphael’s first chapel on “Menelaus with the body of the right is frescoed with Patroclus” (a Roman copy Sibyls (1514), which was of a Hellenistic group) is influenced by the then almost irrelevant. Since recent unveiling of the this worn fragment took up Sistine Chapel ceiling its post here in 1501, it has (see pp14–15). Peruzzi been Rome’s most vocal decorated the chapel “Talking Statue” (see box). across the aisle and Bramante’s first job in Pasquino, Piazza Pasquino  Around Piazza Navona ❮❮ 91 9 Palazzo Colonne Massimo alle A MORNING AROUND PIAZZA NAVONA MAP L3 • Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 141 • Open 7am–1pm 16 Mar only Palazzo Sant’Agostino This masterpiece of Baldassare Altemps Peruzzi, built in 1532, marks the Via dei Ai Monasteri transition of Roman architecture Coronari San Luigi dei Francesi from the High Renaissance of Tre Scalini Bramante and Sangallo into the Piazza Navona theatrical experiments of Mannerism Sant’Ivo Piazza Sant’ Eustachio that would lead up to the Baroque. The façade is curved for a reason; Peruzzi honoured Neo-Classical MORNING precepts so much he wanted to preserve the arc of the Odeon of Start in the courtyard of the Domitian, a small theatre Sapienza, marvelling at the incorporated into the south end of remarkable façade of Sant’Ivo (see p89). Head around the the emperor’s stadium (see p58). church’s right side and out the back exit on to Via della Dogana 0 Palazzo Madama MAP L3 Piazza Madama 11 • Vecchia. If you need a morning pick-me-up, turn left and then • Open for guided tours 10am–6pm right into Piazza Sant’Eustachio 1st Sat of month (closed Aug) (if the namesake church is open, Based around the 16th-century pop in for a look around the early 18th-century interior). In the Medici Pope Leo X’s Renaissance elongated piazza to the left are palace, the Baroque façade of fine views of Sant’Ivo’s dome and unpointed brick and bold marble two great cafés to choose from, window frames was added in the Camillo and Sant’Eustachio. 17th century. Since 1870 it’s been the Return to Via della Dogana seat of Italy’s Senate, so public Vecchia and turn right to visit the admission is obviously limited. Caravaggio works inside San Luigi dei Francesi (see p89). Continue up the street to Via delle Coppelle and turn left for more Caravaggio at Sant’Agostino. Continue into Piazza delle Cinque Lune and walk a few yards to the left down Corso del Rinascimento (see p89) to Ai Monasteri (see p93) and browse the quality liqueurs and old-fashioned beauty products, all made by monks. Around the corner is Palazzo Altemps, now home to a wing of the Museo Nazionale Romano and full of Classical statuary. Spend a good hour admiring the works of art. Then relax from the sightseeing with a stroll amid the street performers and splashing fountains of Piazza Navona (see p89). Enjoy a tartufo ice cream or a full lunch at the wonderful Tre Scalini (see p94), before ending the morning window-shopping along the antiques of Via dei Coronari (see p92). Grand interiors of Palazzo Madama See map on p88  92 ❯❯ Rome Area by Area The Best of the Rest 1 Sant’Agnese in Agone MAP L3 Piazza Navona • 5 Chiesa Nuova MAP K3 Piazza della Chiesa • • Open 9:30am–12:30pm, 3:30–7pm Nuova/Via del Governo Vecchio 134 Mon–Sat, 9am–1pm, 4–8pm Sun & • Open 7:30am–noon, 4:30–7pm hols daily This church was built in honour of a Pietro da Cortona painted the dome young girl whose hair miraculously and apse, and Rubens three grew to cover her nakedness after sanctuary canvases for this imposing she was stripped in a brothel. 1575 church with a lavish interior. Borromini’s façade combines concave and convex shapes. 6 Palazzo Braschi MAP L3 Piazza San • Palazzo Pamphilj 2 MAP L3 • Piazza Navona 14 • Pantaleo 10 • Open 10am–7pm Tue– Sun • Adm Open Tue from 3:30pm by appt only The last papal family palace, built This 17th-century palace was 1791–1811. Cosimo Morelli used a commissioned by Pope Innocent X Renaissance design to match the and has a wonderful Pietro da piazza. Inside is a small museum Cortona fresco upstairs. dedicated to Roman history. 3 Via dei Coronari MAP K2 7 Sant’Antonio Portoghesi dei Lined with antiques shops, this MAP L2 • Via dei Portoghesi 2 street is at its torch-flickering best • 8:30am–1pm, 3–6pm Mon–Fri, during the May and October antiques 8:30am–noon, 3–6pm Sat, fairs (see p80). 9am–noon Sun A Baroque gem of a church. Out 4 Domitian’s Stadium MAP L3 Piazza di Tor • front is the Torre della Scimmia, a rare remnant of medieval Rome. Sanguigna 13 • 06 0608 • Open daily 10am–7pm (to book call 06 458 6100) • Adm 8 Santa Maria dell’Anima MAP L2 Via di Santa Maria • The outline of this AD 86 stadium is dell’ Anima 66 • Open 9am–12:45pm, echoed in Piazza Navona, built on top 3–7pm daily of its remains. Highlights in this gilded church are a Giulio Romano altarpiece and Peruzzi’s Hadrian VI tomb (1523). 9 Museo Napoleonico MAP L2 Piazza di Ponte • Umberto I • Open 10am–6pm Tue– Sun • Adm A collection of paintings, furnishings and objets d’art that once belonged to the Bonaparte clan. 0 San Salvatore in Lauro MAP K2 Piazza S Salvatore in • Lauro 15 • Open 4:30–7pm daily This church houses da Cortona’s Adoration of the Shepherds (1630). Domitian’s Stadium  Around Piazza Navona ❮❮ 93 Shops 1 Antica Cappelleria Troncarelli 6 Cinzia Vintage MAP K3 Via del Governo • MAP L2 • Via della Cuccagna 15 Vecchio 45 This tiny hat shop is older than the One of the Via del Governo Vecchio Italian nation – it opened in 1857, and historic second-hand shops, selling has changed little. Offers a range of everything from old Levis to the stylish models for men and women. occasional brand name. 7 Le Tele di Carlotta MAP K2 Via dei Coronari 228 • The store’s name means “Charlotte’s Web” and this charming shop sells not spiderwebs but exquisite hand- embroidered cushions, linens and hand-made lace. There are also antique pieces. Ai Monasteri 8 Kouki MAP K2 • Via dei Coronari 26 Ai Monasteri 2 MAP L2 • Corso An Aladdin’s cave of beads to purchase by weight, or make your own selection Rinascimento 72 and have it strung while you wait. Monasteries from all across Italy supply their home-made honey, liqueurs, beauty products, elixirs 9 Libreria Fanucci MAP L3 Piazza Madama 8 • and other products to this shop. Welcoming and engaging independent bookshop with a 3 Maga Morgana MAP K3 Via del Governo • contemporary European feel. Vecchio 27 For more than 40 years, Maga 0 Too Much MAP L3 Via Santa Maria • Morgana has been selling select dell’Anima 29 items by independent designers This colourful, two-storey shop sells from the world over, and also has a quirky, fun objects for the home, as range of self-tailored garments. well as design items and interesting souvenirs with a twist. 4 AlMAPSogno L2 Piazza Navona 53 • Enjoy a nostalgic trip browsing Al Sogno’s precious dolls and doll’s houses, (almost) life-size teddy bears and wooden toys. Although hard for children to resist, staff disapprove of them touching anything. 5 Massimo Maria Melis MAP L2 Via dell’Orso 57 • A film costume designer turned goldsmith, Massimo Melis creates breathtaking jewellery inspired by Roman and Etruscan pieces and techniques, and often incorporating ancient stones, seals and coins. The cheerful interior of Too Much See map on p88  94 ❯❯ Rome Area by Area Cafés and Bars Abbey Theatre Irish Pub 1 Abbey Theatre Irish Pub MAP K3 Via del Governo • 6 Pasticceria Cinque Lune MAP L3 Corso del • Vecchio 51–53 Rinascimento 89 Comfortable, cozy Guinness pub, This old­school Italian bakery is pleasantly removed from the hubbub packed to the brim with pastries, of the nightlife core that has come up biscuits and cakes. Their speciality is down the road. Basic snacks served. the “imperatore”: pastries filled with ricotta cheese and aromatic herbs, 2 Tre Scalini MAP L3 Piazza Navona 28 • to be had plain or with chocolate. This historic café, right on Piazza Navona, is renowned for its 7 Enoteca Il Piccolo MAP K3 Via del Governo • delectable chocolate homemade Vecchio 74 tartufo ice cream ball (see p78). Appealing and friendly little wine bar, with a personal touch. Great choice 3 Bistrot Bramante Chiostro del for wine with delicious home­made snacks and salads, and vin brulè MAP K3 Arco della Pace • (mulled wine) in the winter. A modern museum café with out­ door tables overlooking the Baroque cloister. Stop by for a cup of coffee or 8 Bar del Fico MAP K3 Piazza del Fico 26 • to enjoy one of their tasty salads. A popular bar­cum­restaurant serving large aperitivo buffets and 4 Fluid MAP K3 • Via del Governo delicious cocktails and a marvellous Sunday brunch. Vecchio 46 Space­inspired interiors and cosmic forests define this high­level cocktail 9 Caffè Domiziano MAP L2 Piazza Navona 88 • bar, which is frequented by young Service is slightly slow but this café professionals and a trendy crowd features one of the most beautiful that spill out into the piazza. views in Rome, with a wide terrace directly on Piazza Navona. 5 Casa e Bottega Café MAP K2 Via dei Coronari 183 • 0 Etabli 06 686 4358 • MAP K2 • Vicolo delle Prettily decorated, welcoming café Vacche 9/A that is a lovely place for breakfast, a The perfect spot for a drink or an light lunch, or afternoon tea. aperitivo with friends. The decor is Wonderful hot chocolate. inspired by the French countryside.  Around Piazza Navona ❮❮ 95 Places to Eat PRICE CATEGORIES than its famous parent Pizzeria da For a three-course meal for one with half Baffetto in Via del Governo Vecchio, a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), but benefits from shorter queues. taxes and extra charges. € under €40 €€ €40–60 €€€ over €60 7 Casa Bleve MAP L3 Via de Teatro Valle 48 • • 06 686 5970 • Closed Sun • €€ 1 Da Francesco MAP K2–3 Piazza del Fico 29 • Anacleto Bleve sources the freshest ingredients from small producers • 06 686 4009 • DA • € to create exquisite dishes at this Popular with tourists, this has an traditional osteria (see p76). excellent appetiser buffet offering hand-cut prosciutto, fresh seafood salads and many vegetarian options. 8 Casa Coppelle MAP M2 Piazza delle • Great pizza and pasta too. Coppelle 49 • 06 6889 1707 • €€ Relaxed, contemporary place with a 2 Da Tonino MAP K3 Via del Governo • long bar, serving French and Roman food, including caramelised Vecchio 18–19 • 06 908 6508 artichoke tarte tatin, and a fabulous • Closed Sun • € gorgonzola and pear risotto. Cheerful, bustling trattoria. Massive portions of pasta, and mains ranging from traditional veal stew to lamb with crisp roast potatoes. 3 Casa e Bottega Quality ingredients and bistro- type decor make this stylish but unpretentious lunch place a top choice in the area (see p76). 4 IlMAPConvivio Troiani L2 Vicolo dei Soldati 31 • • 06 686 9432 • Closed Sun • €€€ For a special night out. One of the historic centre’s best restaurants, Cosy interior of Lo Zozzone with seasonal cuisine based on Italian traditions. Excellent wine list. 9 Lo Zozzone MAP L3 Via Teatro della Pace • Cul de Sac 5 MAP L3 • Piazza Paquino 73 32 • 06 6880 8575 • € Wonderful place, selling slices of • 06 6880 1094 • € crisp pizza bianca (with no tomato), One of Rome’s oldest wine bars, with filled with any combination from lots of labels on offer. It can be a bit their deli counter. Eat on the terrace of a squeeze both inside and out, but or take away. it’s a better option than most of the bars in nearby Piazza Navona. 0 Antica Taverna MAP K3 Via Monte Giordano • Pizzeria La Montecarlo 6 MAP K3 • Vicolo Savelli 13 12 • 06 6880 1053 • € The owners get their ricotta, goat’s • 06 686 1877 • Closed Mon • € milk and rabbit from their hometown The offspring of Baffetto’s owners in the Sabine Hills. Suckling pig and run this joint. Has less ambience roast duck are house specialities. See map on p88  96 ❯❯ Rome Area by Area Around the Pantheon During the Roman Empire the Tiber Bend area was a military training ground called the Campo Marzio. After the fall of Rome, this riverside district was all but forgotten until the Baroque boom gave the area’s palaces their distinc­ tive look. Mussolini cleaned up the quarter in the 1920s and 1930s to bring out its Detail, Piazza ancient character, adding Fascist buildings della Rotonda complete with self­aggrandizing bas­reliefs. AROUND THE PANTHEON VIA ROZ ZE Top 10 Sights VI R I P E T TA CAR Te v e r e LA see pp97–9 DEL A V IA Places to Eat BEL DI see p103 SIA DE LARGO e PIAZZA Fium DEGLI NA VIA AUGUSTO SCHIAVONI Shops L IMPERATORE I TT see p101 DO ON VIA TOMACELLI E IC Ponte CO V. D The Best of the Rest VIA O Cavour RZI LA see p100 RS EL AN NT ESE MA DEL FO RGH Cafés, Gelaterie and O A VI BO PIAZZA Bars E PIAZZA ER BORGHESE SAN LORENZO see p102 ARZIO EV O GA IN LUCINA TIN EN OT MB EM PIAZZA CL V. D. C A M P O M NG D. TORRETTA DI VIA ERO LU VI A DEL IN A PIAZZA LU C L A LU PA PIAZZA IN SAN CARDELLI V IA D. S I LV E S T R O DEI V IA E N TO V IA F E T T I PIAZZA D. LAM PIAZZA DI PRE PA R PIAZZA NE ITO PARLAMENTO FIRENZE SAN CLAUDIO TR S C R O FA A L IO RI DE ME T I S S ION E ARZ D . S TA M P E VIA M P IA D I V I ATA S AS OM VIA D. V IA V STE LLE TTA D. M IO DELLA S. M CA VIA VIA AR PIAZZA DI PIAZZA IA IN PIAZZA MONTECITORIO DI VIA COPPELLE PIAZZA VIA TREVI V IA COLONNA VIA A T TE COPPE LLE MUR D. V IA V IA E R G IN I V PIAZZA DI DE CORSO DEL PIAZZA PIETRA V I A D. CAPRANICA À LE LT MI L PIAZZA D. ’U S T IN I ORATORIO LL D E I PA DE DOG VIA GIUSTI NIANI V IA A VI DEL CO ANA PIAZZA DELLA V IA D O M A N O ROTONDA VIA DEL SEMIN ARIO PIAZZA D. RS V ECC R PILOTTA MINE R VA PIGNA . CO LL V IA VIA D. RINASCIMENT O HI SANT E G IO P IA Z ’I G N PIAZZA PIAZZA V I A D I T O RR DELLA ZA A Z IO VIA COLLEGIO V. MONTERONE MINERVA SED IAR I ROMANO SS. TEAT RO VALL E VIA DEL APO VIA DEI CES S TO O E ARGENTINA VIA PIAZZA PIAZZA LI MBRE D. PIGNA GRAZIOLI 0 metres 200 NOVE D. VIA IV E B IS C ITO GESÙ EL PL TA R I 0 yards 200 PIAZZA V IA D VENEZIA  Around the Pantheon ❮❮ 97 The Pantheon, fronted by the Fontana del Pantheon and obelisk of Rameses II 1 Galleria Doria Pamphilj MAP N3 Via del Corso 305 • 2 The Pantheon “Simple, erect, severe, • Open 9am–7pm daily • Adm • DA austere, sublime” – even Lord Byron • www.doriapamphilj.it struggled to find adequate words to The best of the private collection describe this marvel of Roman galleries in Rome. In addition to architecture, the only ancient Roman paintings by Rubens, Correggio, temple to survive virtually intact Tintoretto, Carracci and Brueghel, through the millennia (see pp18–19). star works include Caravaggio’s Mary Magdalene, Rest on the Flight into Egypt, and Young St John the Baptist 3 Santa Maria sopra Minerva (a copy he made of his Capitoline MAP M3 • Piazza della Minerva 42 version), Titian’s Salome with the • Open 7:10am–7pm Mon–Sat, 8am– Head of John the Baptist and Bernini’s noon, 2–7pm Sun • DA bust of Pope Innocent X (see p55). This is the only truly Gothic church in Rome, possibly built, as the name suggests, on top of a temple to Minerva. Michelangelo’s Risen Christ (1514–21) – to the left of the main altar – is a muscular rendition of the Saviour so shockingly nude that church officials added the bronze wisp of drapery. Filippino Lippi frescoed the last chapel on the right; the lower scene on the right wall includes portraits of young Giovanni and Giulio de’ Medici (known as Popes Leo X and Clement VII), who are buried in tombs by Antonio Sangallo the Younger, in the apse, with Fra’ Angelico and (most of) Santa Maria sopra Minerva St Catherine of Siena (see p51).  98 ❯❯ Rome Area by Area 5 Ara Pacis Museum MAP D2 Lungotevere in • Augusta • 06 0608 • Open 9:30am– 7:30pm daily • Adm • www.arapacis.it Augustus Caesar built this “Altar of Peace” between 13 BC and 9 BC to celebrate the famed pax romana (Roman peace) he instituted – largely by subjugating most of Western Europe, the Levant and North Africa. Fragments of the altar were excavated over several centuries, and in the 1920s Mussolini placed the reconstituted Ara Pacis by Augustus’s Mausoleum. The altar is now housed in a Richard Meier- designed museum, the first modern structure to be built in the centre of Rome in more than 70 years. 6 Column Aurelius of Marcus MAP N2 Piazza Colonna • Trajan’s Column was such a success (see p26) that this one was erected to Sant’Ignazio di Loyola honour Marcus Aurelius in AD 180–93. The reliefs celebrate his battles 4 Sant’Ignazio di Loyola MAP N3 Piazza di S Ignazio • against the Germans (169–73) on the bottom and the Sarmatians (174–6) • Open 7:30am–12:20pm, 3–7:20pm on the top. In 1588, Pope Sixtus V daily replaced the statues of the emperor When the Jesuits’ new Baroque and his wife with that of St Paul. church was finished, it still lacked a dome. Master of trompe l’oeil Andrea Pozzo used the technique in 1685 to create the illusion of an airy dome on the flat ceiling over the church’s crossing; stand on the yellow marble disc for the full effect, then walk directly under the “dome” to see how skewed the painting actually is. Pozzo also painted the nave vault with the lovely Glory of Sant’Ignazio. Detail, Column of Marcus Aurelius RECYCLED TEMPLES Romans are ingenious recyclers. The 7 Augustus’s Mausoleum MAP D2 Piazza Augusto • Pantheon became a church, Hadrian’s Imperatore • Closed for restoration Temple a stock exchange. Santa Maria Augustus built this grand imperial sopra Minerva was built atop a temple tomb in 27 BC, his ashes later joined to Minerva; San Clemente on one to by those of emperors Tiberius and Mithras. In the 11th century, the walls of San Lorenzo in Miranda in the Forum Nerva, and worthies such as Agrippa and San Nicola in Carcere on Via Teatro and Marcellus. Barbarian invaders di Marcello were both grafted onto later made off with the urns and temple columns. locals mined its travertine facing for their palaces. The ancient rotunda  Around the Pantheon ❮❮ 99 has served time as a circus for bear- A WALK AROUND THE PANTHEON baiting fortress, hanging garden and concert hall. In the 1920s its crown Ara Pacis was restored to the ancient style, Museum Augustus’s Mausoleum covered with grass and cypress, and Palazzo Borghese Mussolini laid out the Fascist piazza around it. Major architectural work Dal Cavalier Gino Column of is planned for this area. Marcus Aurelius Giolitti Sant’Ignazio Piazza della Rotonda di Loyola Caffè Sant’ Santa Eustachio Maria in Pantheon Via Lata Santa Maria Galleria sopra Minerva Doria Pamphilj Start with a cappuccino at Caffè Sant’Eustachio (see p102). Follow Salita de’ Crescenzi to Piazza della Rotonda and the stunning beauty of the Pantheon (see pp18–19). Head down to Piazza della Minerva to admire Bernini’s Elephant Obelisk and Santa Augustus’s Mausoleum Maria sopra Minerva (see p97). 8 Piazza MAP M2 di Sant’Ignazio Via S Caterina da Siena becomes Via Pie’ di Marmo (look right to see the famous ancient marble Francesco Raguzzini laid out this foot). The street meets the piazza masterpiece of Baroque urban design in front of Galleria Doria Pamphilj for the Jesuits in 1727–8, creating a (see p97). After paying homage to piazza carefully planned right down the works inside, take a coffee to the ornate iron balconies and break at the elegant Café Doria matching dusty pink plaster walls. (see p102). Then head out the east end of the piazza to Via Lata, then on to the Corso to Santa Maria in 9 Bernini’s Obelisk Elephant Via Lata (see p100). Turn left up the Corso to the Baroque Piazza MAP M3 Piazza della Minerva • di Sant’Ignazio for Rome’s best An example of Bernini’s fun-loving trompe l’oeil frescoes in side. This baby elephant, carved to Sant’Ignazio di Loyola. Work the master’s designs in 1667 by your way past the square’s mini Ercole Ferrata, carries a miniature palaces onto Piazza di Pietra. An alley leads to the Column of 6th-century BC Egyptian obelisk on Marcus Aurelius. Lunch with its back. It is a playful reference to politicians and lobbyists from the Hannibal’s war elephants, which nearby Parliament at reliable and carried siege towers across the Alps deeply traditional Dal Cavalier to attack the Romans in 218 BC. Gino (see p103) or head to Giolitti for ice cream (see p102). 0 Piazza MAP M3 della Rotonda Walk west on Via del Leone into Piazza Borghese, home to an This piazza hosted a busy daily antiques print market and the market until 1847; some of the Palazzo Borghese (see p100). Two Pantheon’s portico columns still bear blocks north it opens out on to holes from the stall posts once set Piazza Augusto Imperatore, where you end your walk after into them. The square is now filled visiting its churches, Augustus’s with cafés and visitors, ranged Mausoleum and the Ara Pacis around Giacomo della Porta’s 1575 Museum (see p97). fountain, which has a tiny Egyptian obelisk dedicated to Rameses II. See map on p96  100 ❯❯ Rome Area by Area The Best of the Rest 6 Piazza MAP M1 di Montecitorio The square’s obelisk was once part of the Augustus’s giant sundial, which used to be flanked by the Ara Pacis (see p97). Hadrian’s Temple 7 Palazzo Borghese MAP M1 Via Borghese & Via • di Ripetta • Access to outside only 1 Hadrian’s Temple MAP M2 Piazza di Pietra 9A • The oddly shaped “harpsichord of Rome”, begun by Vignola in 1560, • Access to outside only (inside for was finished with a Tiber terrace by cultural events only) Flaminio Ponzio. Eleven huge columns still stand from a Temple to Hadrian built in AD 145 by his adoptive son, Antoninus Pius. 8 Fontanella del Facchino MAP N3 Via Lata • This small wall fountain (probably 2 Santa Maria Maddalena MAP M2 Piazza della • from the 1570s) is fashioned as a water-seller whose barrel forever Maddalena 53 • Open 8:30–11:30am, spouts fresh water. 5–6:30pm Sun–Fri, 9am–11:30am Sat The church is an elliptical Baroque gem. The 1735 façade by Giuseppe 9 Piazza MAP M3 Sant’Eustachio Sardi is Rome’s best monument to A lovely square, home to two cafés the Rococo movement. competing for the title of Rome’s best cappuccino, as well as an 1196 3 Piè di Marmo MAP N3 Via S Stefano del • bell tower, and an excellent view of Sant’Ivo (see p99). Cacco, Via del Piè di Marmo This large, sandalled marble foot belonged to an unidentified ancient 0 Santa Maria in Via Lata MAP N3 Via del Corso 306 • statue, thought to be around • Open 5–10:30pm Mon–Sat, 9:45– 26 ft (8 m) high. 11:30am, 5–10:30pm Sun & public hols 4 San Lorenzo in Lucina MAP M2 Piazza S Lorenzo in • Pietro da Cortona designed the church’s façade (1660) and Bernini Lucina 16A • Open 8am–8pm daily designed the high altar (1639–43). Founded in the 5th century, and Its frescoes can now be seen in the overhauled in 1090–1118. Guido Reni Crypta Balbi (see p62). did the Crucifixion altarpiece, Bernini the second chapel on the right. 5 Palazzo di Montecitorio MAP M1 Piazza di • Montecitorio 33 • 06 676 01 • Open 1st Sun of month except in Jul, Aug & Sep Bernini’s palace houses the Chamber of Deputies. The south façade is original; the north is Art Nouveau. Santa Maria in Via Lata  Around the Pantheon ❮❮ 101 Shops 4 Vittorio Bagagli MAP M2 Via di Campo • Marzio 42 Purveyor of fine houseware since 1855, including design-led Alessi kitchen gadgets, Pavoni espresso machines and Solimene pottery. 5 Michele di Loco MAP M1 Via del Leone 7 • Exquisite shoes and extraordinary boots by a carefully selected clique of niche designers, for men and women. There is also a branch at Via de Baullari 22, near Campo de’ Fiori. 6 Mercato dell’Antiquariato MAP M1 Piazza Borghese • Lovely antiquarian market consisting of about 17 stalls specializing in antique prints and books. Art supplies at Ditta G. Poggi 7 Città del Sole MAP L1 Via della Scrofa 65 • Ditta G. Poggi 1 MAP M3 Via del Gesù 74 • Part of an Italian chain of high-class toy stores with the very best in One of Rome’s most famous art educational playthings. There is an supplies stores. Sells everything emphasis on innovative design and from oil paints and sketchbooks to natural materials. pencils and charcoal. Davide Cenci 2 MAP M2 8 IlMAPPapiro M3 Via del Pantheon 50 • • Via di Campo Rome branch of the renowned Marzio 1–8 Florentine chain, selling marbled Men’s and women’s clothes designer paper products, souvenir pens and since 1926. Their own slightly calligraphy tools. conservative but eminently fashionable line is sold alongside international labels such as Ralph 9 Campomarzio70 MAP M2 Via di Campo • Lauren, Church’s, Brooks Brothers, Marzio 70 Fay, Burberry and Giorgio Armani. A luxurious perfume shop carrying the finest Italian brands and sophis- 3 Campo Marzio MAP M2 Via di Campo • ticated cosmetic treatments. It also stocks hand-made fragrances. Marzio 41 On offer are their own line of silver- plated fountain pens, as well as 0 Bartolucci MAP M2 Via dei Pastini 98 • other writing and calligraphy The toys, clocks and furniture are all utensils; exquisite, vividly coloured made of wood by Italian artisans in leather notebooks; leather iPad and this delightful shop. Its fairytale phone covers; and leather computer creations include rocking horses cases, briefcases and hand luggage. and wooden Pinocchio dolls. See map on p96  102 ❯❯ Rome Area by Area Cafés, Gelaterie and Bars 1 Giolitti MAP M2 Via degli Uffici del • 6 San Crispino MAP M2 Piazza della • Vicario 40 Maddalena 3 This 19th-century landmark café is San Crispino pioneered artisan widely regarded as serving Rome’s gelato made from pure organic best ice cream (see p79). ingredients decades ago from a tiny, unpretentious shop in San Giovanni. It has several branches around town, and the ice cream is as good as ever. 7 La Tazza d’Oro MAP M2 Via degli Orfani 84 • Rome’s “House of Coffee” since 1946. This is a die-hard locals’ joint, serving what devotees swear is Rome’s best coffee (see p79). 8 Enoteca Capranica MAP M2 Piazza Capranica 99 • This wine bar-cum-restaurant is just the place for a quick aperitivo or a more leisurely alfresco lunch. The Tables outside Giolitti bottle-lined interior shows that this is a serious wine bar with a well- 2 Caffè Sant’Eustachio MAP M3 Piazza • stocked cellar and a great choice. Sant’Eustachio 82 Another best – this time the best 9 Cremeria Monteforte MAP M3 Via della Rotonda 22 • cappuccino. Their technique is a • Closed Dec & Jan closely guarded secret (see p70). A prime tourist position doesn’t always sound the death knell. 3 Caffè Doria MAP N3 Galleria Doria • This place, guarded by a wooden Pinocchio doorman, serves the best Pamphilj, enter on Via della Gatta 1A fragola (strawberry) ice cream in Aristocratic glamour combined with town and interesting variations such the atmosphere of an English tea as orange chocolate (see p18). room. Great coffees and pastries, light lunches, afternoon tea, and evening drinks with nibbles. 0 Pascucci Frullati Bar MAP M4 Via di Torre • Argentina 20 4 Grom MAP M2 • Via della This has the frothiest milk shakes and smoothies in town. They come in Maddalena 30A all flavours and in any combination. A 100% organic ice cream chain with old-style ice cream recipes (see p79). 5 Enoteca al Parlamento MAP M1 Via dei Prefetti 15 • Atmospheric and stylish wine bar frequented by politicos from the nearby Italian parliament buildings. Italian gelato on sale  Around the Pantheon ❮❮ 103 Places to Eat PRICE CATEGORIES For a three-course meal for one with half 7 Armando al Pantheon MAP M3 Salita dei Crescenzi • a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), 31 • 06 6880 3034 • Closed Sat night taxes and extra charges. & Sun • €€ € under €40 €€ €40–60 €€€ over €60 Friendly family-run trattoria with a well-deserved reputation for Roman classics as well as lighter dishes. 1 Matricianella MAP M1 Via del Leone 3–4 • • 06 683 2100 • Closed Sun • €€ Quintessential Roman trattoria in the centro storico. Don't miss the carciofi alla giudia (Jewish-style crispy fried artichokes), the fritto vegetale (lightly- battered fried vegetables) and the saltimbocca (veal rolled up with prosciutto and sage). Great wine list. 2 IlMAPBacaro M2 Via degli Spagnoli • 27 • 06 687 2554 • €€ The design is contemporary inside, but it feels like old Rome sitting outside against the ivy-covered walls. The cuisine is traditional dishes from across Italy. Booking essential. Diners at Armando al Pantheon 3 Osteria dell’Ingegno MAP N2 Piazza di Pietra 45 • 8 Taverna del Seminario 06 678 0662 € • • MAP M3 Via del Seminario • Popular wine bar also serving up 105 • 06 8110 9909 • € huge meat and cheese platters. Good, authentic Italian food and great house Chianti, all for a 4 Trattoria Enoteca Corsi MAP N3 Via del Gesù 87 06 • • reasonable price. 679 0821 • Closed Mon–Wed, Sun & Sat night • € 9 La Rosetta MAP M2 Via della Rosetta 8/9 • This wine shop has grown into a • 06 686 1002 • €€€ thriving restaurant serving traditional Family restaurant founded in 1966. cuisine at affordable prices. Check The tuna tartare and the lobster the blackboard for the daily specials. pasta are a real treat, as is the variety of other shellfish and seafood 5 Settimio all’Arancio MAP M1 Via dell’Arancio • dishes featured on the menu. 50–52 • 06 687 6119 • Closed Sun • € A hectic atmosphere, but the classic 0 Dal Cavalier Gino MAP M1 Vicolo Rosini 4 • • 06 Roman cuisine is excellent. 687 3434 • Closed Sun • € Opened in 1963 and little changed 6 Obicà MAP M1 • Via dei Prefetti 26A since: trompe l'oeil frescoes, Roman classics like tonnarelli cacio e pepe • 06 683 2630 • € (pasta with cheese and black pepper) Mozzarella bar serving a dozen and a clientele of politicians, lobbyists varieties in many different ways. and journalists. Book ahead. See map on p96  106 ❯❯ Rome Area by Area Campo de’ Fiori to the Capitoline This area is where Caesar was assassinated, but it is also home to the glory of Capitoline Hill. In ancient times, this district was full of important public monuments, but when the papacy moved to France and Rome was close to extinction, it was here that the remaining citizens lived in squalor. With the return of the popes, commerce flourished and the area revived. Today, Rome’s most authentic neigh­ Musei bourhood bears clear signs of its long history. Capitolini CAMPO DE’ FIORI TO THE CAPITOLINE V. DEI CESTARI V. DEI CESTARI 350 m 350 m C OC O VIA VIA R S ROS O 300 m 300 m DE DE V I VT I T VI VI L L T OTROI RO I O UL I RI BA LAR A A PE PE E ME M LA VI VI DE DE LL LL A NA N UL EG EG A A I I PIAZZA PIAZZA RI RI U EUL E L BA CA CA VIA VIA NO NO VIDONI VIDONI E EI I I I PARIONE PARION E PP PP I I EL EL DE DE LA LA V. DEL V. DEL SUD ARIO SUD ARIO A A RI RI VI VI ARENULA ARENULA VIA D. ARCO VIA D. ARCO DE DE M M DE'GINN ASI DE'GINN ASI D. C E S A R I N I V. S . N I CO L A D. C E S A R I N I V. S . N I CO L A VI A D E L VI A D E L O O D D E LLA D E LLA PIAZZA PIAZZA DEL DEL I I N N SE SE R BISCIONE BISCIONE CHIA CHIA R R AT AT R O O FA R I N A FA R I N A VI VI M O NT E M O NT E VA R I VA R I LU LUNG V. D V. D A A EI EI V I AV I AF L OFRLIODRAI D A AR I SI N OT I F ES GI GI NE DE RN G E UB UB LARGO LARGO VIA M. CA VIA M. CA VIA PAGAN ICA VIA PAGAN ICA O V. I FA BO BO ARENULA ARENULA TE ER VI VI CA NA NA DE A A PO RI RI ER . E E V V E A A C H A ODN N V. M H E D. CA D O ER D. A DN T CO NT O G D G L I T BA VI VI AS VI R C A O RC PO I AS VI ETA NI ETA NI V IM O . A R M . AE E I U E TE IU A E L D. E D. E E DE PIAZZA PIAZZA DEL DEL V I A V IDAE D E I I DI ERR MONTE MONTEDI DI PIAZZA FA L FA D. A D LO O NLO O N PIAZZA E GLNEAGM LI NIA M I M CO RCO R PIETÀPIETÀ F FE O BENEDETTO BENEDETTO VI Fi Fi V I LVVEI LV E A RR I I CAIROLI CAIROLI PO PO V. V. u u O VI VI D D .S .S V V IA IA A L A DA L A D m m PE PE S. M S. M IN I RI CC CC TT R B D L A . SL A . S .D .D e e PE INA A HI HI A I R E . PAR E . PA .P .P LA LA IA N IA N LD TT G O OG O O TO TO NU NU L A LO L A LO PE T T LU LU G I ev ev EI EI V IA V IA N NG O O VA I O O D D ARE ARE RI T. T. er er ER OR A A POR POR TO VI VI D. D. PZA.PZA. D. D. N S VAT LU LU TIC TIC e e PIAZZA CINQUE PIAZZA O O V. DEL TEMPIO V. DEL TEMPIO CINQUE FA FA R ERGEO GOL AL A CO E R N N CENCICENCI SCUOLE SCUOLE RN RN S V IA V IA V. CO N VIA VIA ES ES C AT C AT G G T T ALA ALA IN IN . D. D O O D’ O D’ O PontePonte NA NA A A EVEV V. SistoSisto E R EE R E L U LNUGNOGT OE TV EE VR EE R E A D.ASD . .DSO. RDOOTR O T PIAZZA D. D D ED E T TAV T TAV VI VI E A E A PIAZZA VA. VL A LA I TI L LT A I CI C TRILUSSSA TRILUSSSA ENEN IA IA CI CI LU LU LU PontePonte NG NG Garibaldi Garibaldi Top 10 Sights OT OT Isola Isola EV EV TibTib e r ina e r ina see pp107–9 ER ER E E R . RS. S Roman and Jewish V I A VD I A. D . A N ZAIN OZ I O LU NLG UONTG OT R E N ERLE N E L E V EE V E Restaurants LA LA RE RE D. D. see p113 AN AN Ponte Ponte GU GU Cestio Cestio EVERE EVERE ILL ILL Shops V I AV I A D D AR AR E L LEAL L A A A see p111 LU LUN GN AGR EATRTEAT T A PIAZZA L U L U RAST RAST PIAZZA AL AL IN PISCINULA IN PISCINULA B B N ER N E RT E S C H The Best of the Rest TRTR A STE A STE VEVE R ER E G TE G T EV O O SE R I DI T DI T TE C E see p110 VE HI VIA VIA CE CE LE LE RE DE DE LU LU Bars, Cafés and I S I S VIA VIA AL AL D. D. UM UM Street Food V IA V IA I I see p112 0 metres 0 metres 200200 DE DE VIA VIA I I GE GE NO NO VES VES 0 yards 0 yards 200200 I I Previous pages the vast dome of the Pantheon  Campo de’ Fiori to the Capitoline ❮❮ 107 1 Campo MAP L4 de’ Fiori pp28–9) was originally two peaks: the Arx, with the Temple of Juno, and the The “Field of Flowers” occupies what Cavo, with the Temple of Jupiter, now was, in ancient times, the open space mostly occupied by the Palazzo dei in front of the Theatre of Pompey. Conservatori (see pp30–31). The huge Since the Middle Ages, it has been Tabularium (Record Office) was built one of Rome’s liveliest areas, a between them in 78 BC, thus form­ backdrop for princes and pilgrims ing one hill, called the Capitol; and alike. It was also the locus of the over that the Palazzo Senatorio was Inquisition’s executions, as attested built in the 12th century. to by the statue of Giordano Bruno, burned here in the Jubilee celebra­ tions of 1600 (see p60). 2 Capitoline MAP N5 Hill Everything in Rome is built on top of something else. The Capitoline (see E E PIAZZA PIAZZA E M BERM B R GRAZIOLI GRAZIOLI N O VN O V V IA VIVIA IV C CI T OI T O E B IESB I S DED L EPLL P L PIAZZA PIAZZA V I AV I A VENEZIA VENEZIA PIAZZA PIAZZA Capitoline Hill MADONNA MADONNA DI LORETO DI LORETO 3 Largo di Torre Argentina PIAZZA PIAZZA PIAZZA PIAZZA DEL DEL GESUGESU S. MARCO S. MARCO VI A VI A O O MAP M4 A R CA R C S . MS . M V I AV I A D D The ruins of four Republican temples ’A ’A RA RA CO CO (one dating back to the 4th century EL EL BC) were uncovered here in 1925. To RG NA A I I N the west is the 18th­century Teatro A A PIAZZA PIAZZA RG D’ARACOELI D’ARACOELI A A Argentina, with its inscription to the M M CE O O A A Muses. Many 19th­century operas VI VI AR ELL LL PIAZZA PIAZZA debuted here, including Rossini’s C CAPIZUCCHI CAPIZUCCHI AR PIAZZA PIAZZA DEL DEL VI VI CAMPIDOGLIO CAMPIDOGLIO Barber of Seville. It was a flop on its M M A A M M ON ON Foro Foro first night, but only because his DI DI TA TA NA NA RA RA Ro mano Ro ma no enemy, Pauline Bonaparte, had hired O O TR TR a gaggle of hecklers to disrupt it. TEA TEA 4 Theatre of Marcellus DEL DEL M oM noten te E E A O. N ON D D MAP N5 Via del Portico . Ca Ca p ilitol p i to n oi n o • ZI ZI A AA A V I OVLI O L U LU NS O NS d’Ottavia 29 • Archeological area VIA VIA R IO R IO V V O C C JU G A JU G A IA IA V ICOV ICO open 9am–sunset daily N N OT V IA V IA DEI DEI G G EV F IE F IE O One of three ancient theatres in this N IL N IL TE ERE I I S . G I O V A NN I D E C O L L ATO S . G I O V A NN I D E C O L L ATO VE district, dating back to 23 BC, and RE PIERL probably the most frequented of O O OR OR PIE all Imperial theatres until the OD OD RLE Colosseum captured the public’s . TE . TE EON ONI favour. The lower archways once DI S DI S I PontePonte housed picturesque medieval shops, PIAZZA PIAZZA Palatino Palatino until cleared away by archaeologists VIA VIA BOCCA BOCCA D. VERITÀV I D. VERITÀ V A IA DE DE in the 1920s. To the right stand three I I CE CE columns and a frieze fragment that RC RC HI HI belonged to a Temple of Apollo, also from the 1st century BC.  108 ❯❯ Rome Area by Area The simple interior of Santa Maria in Cosmedin 5 Santa Maria in Cosmedin MAP N6 Piazza della Bocca • 7 Chiesa del Gesù MAP N4 Piazza del Gesù • della Verità 18 • Open 9.30am–6pm • Open 7am– 12:30pm, 4–7:45pm daily daily Originally a bread distribution centre, This prototype Counter­Reformation the site became a church in the 6th church, enormous and ornate, was century and, 200 years later, the meant to proclaim the pre­eminence focus of Rome’s Greek exile commu­ of the Jesuit faith. The façade is nity. The Greek title “in Cosmedin” elegant, but the interior is dazzling – means “decorated”. Little remains first impressions are of vibrant gold, of the earliest ornamentation; most bathed in sunlight, and the vision of of it is from the 12th and 13th centu­ angels and saints being pulled into ries, although there is a graceful heaven through a miraculous hole in altar screen characteristic of Eastern the roof. The tomb of Ignatius, the Orthodox churches. The most popu­ order’s founder, is adorned with the lar element is the Bocca della Verità world’s largest chunk of lapis lazuli. (Mouth of Truth), an ancient cistern cover. Legend has it that the mouth snaps shut on the hands of liars. 8 Santa Maria in Aracoeli MAP N4 Scala dell’Arce • Capitolina 14 • Open 9:30am–5:30pm 6 Foro Boario MAP N6 daily (9am–6:30pm in summer) This 6th­century church stands on The name refers to the ancient cattle the site of the ancient Temple of market that once existed here. Now the area is a little park with two small 2nd­century BC temples and THE JEWS IN ROME an Arch of Janus. Dating from the Since the 2nd century BC, Jews have reign of Constantine or later, the arch been a significant presence in Rome. is unprepossessing, but the temples They thrived throughout the Middle are amazingly well preserved. The Ages, until, in 1556, Pope Paul IV, founder of the Inquisition, confined rectangular Temple of Portunus, god them to the squalid Ghetto, where they of rivers and ports, was converted in remained until 1870. Sixty years later the 9th century into a church dedi­ they again suffered deadly persecution cated to St Mary the Egyptian, a under the Fascists, but today Roman prostitute who became a desert Jews number about 14,000 and are an hermit. The pretty, circular shrine integral part of civic life. is a Temple of Hercules Victor.  Campo de’ Fiori to the Capitoline ❮❮ 109 Juno Moneta (Juno the Sentinel), ROMAN CULTURE, LAYER which was also the Roman mint – UPON LAYER and the origin of the word “money”. Palazzo della Cancelleria Chiesea Legend says you can win the lottery La Curia di Sant’Andrea della Valle del Gesù by climbing on your knees up the Campo Bacco Theatre 14th­century front steps – but what de’ Fiori of Pompey you will definitely gain is a fine view. Crypta Palazzo Balbi The nave’s columns come from older Farnese Bernasconi Museum structures; the third one on the left is Fontana delle Tartarughe inscribed “a cubiculo Augustorum” Santa Maria in Campitelli (“from the emperor’s bedroom”). Theatre of Marcellus 9 Fontana delle Tartarughe Because of church opening times, you should take this walk (which MAP M5 • Piazza Mattei lasts about 2 to 4 hours) begin­ The “Fountain of the Tortoises” is the ning either at about 10am or work of three artists. It was designed 4pm. Starting with the Theatre by Giacomo della Porta for the Mattei of Marcellus (see p107), notice the family. Taddeo Landini added the soaring buttresses that support the palace, added in the 16th bronze boys. Later, an unknown century. Heading round the next artist added the tortoises that gave corner, in the 17th­century Santa the fountain its name (see p61). Maria in Campitelli (see p110) use binoculars to espy the oak leaves depicted in the altar’s tiny icon. Continuing west, as you approach the Fontana delle Tartarughe, listen for the sound of splashing water echoing off the medieval walls. To the north, the Crypta Balbi Museum (see pp62–3) has fascinating displays about the neighbourhood’s history. One block north is the awe­inspiring Chiesa del Gesù. For one of the best cappuccino­ cornetto combinations in town, stop off at Bernasconi (Piazza Fontana delle Tartarughe Cairoli 16). At Sant’Andrea della Valle (see 0 Sant’Andrea della Valle MAP L4 Piazza Sant'Andrea • p107) look up at the unusual barrel­vaulted ceiling. Then head della Valle • Open 7:30am–12:30pm, south to Via di Grotta Pinta for 4:30–7:30pm daily the remains of the Theatre of Why has one of the most impressive Pompey (see p63). A block northwest, in the piazza of the 17th­century Baroque churches been Palazzo Farnese (see p110), left with an asymmetrical façade? admire the twin fountains, Only one angel supports the upper composed of stone tubs from tier. Upon its completion, when Pope the Baths of Caracalla. Walk Alexander VII dared to criticize the across Campo de’ Fiori (see p107) work, sculptor Cosimo Fancelli to Palazzo della Cancelleria refused to produce a second angel, (see p59) to contemplate its Renaissance perfection. saying “If he wants another he can make it himself!”. Many come to see End with a drink or a meal at La the setting of Act I of Puccini’s Tosca, Curia di Bacco (Via del Biscione but the church also has Rome’s 79), set in 1st­century BC vaults of the ancient Theatre of Pompey. second­largest dome and some wonderful Domenichino frescoes. See map on pp106–7  110 ❯❯ Rome Area by Area The Best of the Rest 1 Palazzo Farnese MAP K4 Piazza Farnese 67 • 5 Portico MAP M5• d’Ottavia 06 686 011 • 45-minute tours at 3, 4 Built in honour of Octavia, Augustus’s & 5pm Mon, Wed, Fri; book ahead sister, this was an entrance to the One of Rome’s largest palaces, this Circus Flaminius. You can view the is graced by superlative works of art ruins and archaeological digs from by Michelangelo, such as the scaffolding. wonderful cornice (see p58). Palazzo Spada 2 MAP L5 6 Museo Barracco MAP L4 Corso Vittorio • • Piazza Capo di Ferro Emanuele II 168 • 06 0608 • Open 13 • Open 8:30am–7:30pm Wed–Mon 10am–4pm (to 7pm summer) Tue– • Adm Sun • Adm In the 17th century the brothers This palazzo houses a small but Bernardino and Virginio Spada important collection of ancient amassed a fine collection of paint­ sculpture (see p63). ings. Also stop by Borromini’s incredible perspective gallery. Apart from the museum, the palace also 7 Palazzo Venezia MAP N4 Via del Plebiscito • houses the Council of State (see p59). 118 • 06 678 0131 • Open 8:30am–7:30pm Tue–Sun • Adm 3 IlMAPVittoriano N4 Piazza Venezia • Pope Paul II used to watch carnival horse races from the balcony in the • Open 9:30am–5:45pm Mon–Thu, 15th century; it’s also where 9:30am–6:45pm Fri & Sun Mussolini shouted his Fascist The pastiche of motifs on this harangues (see p59). monument to Victor Emmanuel II inspired the Romans to nickname it “The Wedding Cake”. 8 Synagogue Museum and Jewish MAP M5 • Lungotevere dei Cenci 4 Via Giulia MAP K4 • 06 6840 0661 • Museum: Open 10am–4pm Sun–Thu, 9am–2pm Fri Fashionable street laid out by (winter); 10am–6:15pm Sun–Thu, Bramante in the early 16th century. 10am–4pm Fri (summer) Dating from 1904, this synagogue is also home to the city’s Jewish museum (see p108). 9 Palazzo della Cancelleria MAP L4 • Piazza della Cancelleria 1 • Open 7:30am–8pm Mon–Sat, 9:30am–7pm Sun • Adm Lovely Renaissance structure with an unparalleled courtyard, this was once the Papal Chancellery (see p59). 0 Santa Maria in Campitelli MAP N5 • Piazza Campitelli 9 • Open 7am–7pm daily Home to one of the most lavish Palazzo della Cancelleria tabernacles in Rome.  Campo de’ Fiori to the Capitoline ❮❮ 111 Shops 1 Acqua Madre Hammam MAP M5 Via di S Ambrogio 17 • • Closed Mon Recharge your batteries with a visit to this luxury hammam. There’s a sauna and Turkish bath, plus a wide choice of body treatments. 2 Beppe e I Suoi Formaggi MAP M5 Via di Santa Maria • del Pianto 9A/11 Cheeses created by Beppe in Piemonte, along with salami, hams, preserves, olive oil, bread and wine sourced from Italian artisans. Buy to take home, or sit down for a lunch of selected produce with a glass of wine. Acqua Madre Hammam 3 Cartolerie Internazionali MAP D4 Via Arenula 85 • 6 Calzoleria Petrocchi An appealing stationery shop with an MAP J3 Vicolo Sugarelli 2 • • array of office and art supplies, Open on weekends by appt only luxurious pens, gift ideas, photo Bruno Ridolfi keeps alive the high albums and many greetings cards. fashion, made-to-measure cobbler traditions of his uncle Tito Petrocchi, who shod glamorous stars in the 1950s and 60s dolce vita heyday. 7 Alimentari Ruggeri MAP L4 Campo de’ Fiori 1 • A fabulous deli with a dizzying selection of cheeses, cured meats and lots of food souvenirs. 8 Momento MAP L5 Piazza Benedetto • Fahrenheit 451 Cairoli 9 An eclectic boutique with chiffon ball 4 Fahrenheit 451 MAP L4 Campo de’ Fiori 44 • gowns, wool coats, printed tops and a collection of funky accessories. Cinema, art, design and photography books from floor to ceiling. 9 Orologeria Timezone MAP L4 Via dei Pettinari 41 • Boccione Limentani 5 MAP M5 • Via del Portico This friendly proprietor sells name brands (including Swatch) at about d’Ottavia 30–50 per cent below retail prices. Known simply as the kosher bakery or the Ghetto bakery, this place has a limited repertoire, including biscotti, 0 Limentani MAP M5 Via del Portico • pizze and three kinds of crostate d’Ottavia 47 (tarts) – ricotta and cherry, ricotta The best-known Italian brands in and chocolate, almond paste and kitchen design and utensils are sold cherry – but there’s always a queue. in this vast warehouse-like space. See map on pp106–7  112 ❯❯ Rome Area by Area Bars, Cafés and Street Food 1 Antico Forno Roscioli MAP L4 Via dei Chiavari 34 • • 06 686 4045 • 7am–7:30pm Mon– Sat, closed Sat in Jul–Aug Gourmet bakery selling pizza, rustici, focaccia and hot dishes fresh from the oven. The classic is pizza bianca (pizza with olive oil and salt). 2 Bar Latteria del Gallo MAP K4 Vicolo del Gallo 4 • • 06 686 5091 • Closed Wed Hot chocolate and milky coffee served in lovely big bowls, in a bar Forno Campo de’ Fiori unchanged for 50 years or so. Bar del Cappuccino 3 MAP L5 6 Forno Campo de’ Fiori MAP K4 Campo de’ Fiori 22 • •Via Arenula 50 • 06 6880 6662 • 06 6880 6042 • Closed Sun Run by another branch of the Unassuming, friendly bar serving Roscioli family, this specialises in some of the best cappuccino in town, pizza bianca, pizza rosso and tarts with foam decorated on request. (crostate) and other sweet things. 4 Alimentari Ruggeri MAP L4 Campo de’ Fiori 1 • 7 Bar Giulia MAP J3 Via Giulia 84 • • 06 6880 1091 • Open daily • 06 686 1310 • Closed Sun Superb deli with a tempting array of This simple snack bar, also known as cheese, ham and salami and an Café Peru, serves good sandwiches. international grocery section. The barman prepares great cappuccinos with fancy foam designs. 5 Antica Norcineria Viola MAP L4 Campo de’ Fiori 43 • 8 Obicà 06 6880 6114 Closed in August • • MAP L4 • Campo de’ Fiori 16 Viola specialises in Umbrian ham • 06 6880 2366 • Open daily and salami, which are thought to A range of mozzarellas in salads and be the best in Italy. sandwiches at this chic mozzarella bar that is part of a national chain. 9 Dar Filettaro a Santa Barbara MAP L4 • Largo dei Librari 88 • 06 686 4018 • Closed Sun This tiny place is a Rome institution selling crisp, deep-fried salt cod. Perfect for a quick lunch. 0 Da Benito MAP M5 Via dei Falegnami 14 • • 06 686 1508 • Closed Sun and Aug Unpretentious place with a range of traditional Roman dishes including carfìofi alla romana (artichokes with Antica Norcineria Viola garlic and mint). Popular with locals.  Campo de’ Fiori to the Capitoline ❮❮ 113 Roman and Jewish Restaurants 5 Sora PRICE CATEGORIES Margherita Small, traditional osteria For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), serving wonderful, hearty Roman- taxes and extra charges. Jewish delicacies. There is no sign – € under €40 €€ €40–60 €€€ over €60 look for the red streamers in the doorway (see p76). 1 Piperno MAP M5 Monte de’Cenci 9 • 6 Ba’Ghetto MAP M5 Via del Portico • • 06 6880 6629 • Closed Sun D, Mon d’Ottavia 57 • 06 6889 2868 • €€€ • Closed Fri D, Sat L • €€ Roman-Jewish cuisine at its finest, A modern trattoria offering Jewish in a beautiful piazza away from the cuisine from Rome and Northern hubbub. Traditional dishes include Africa. Certified kosher. carciofi alla giudia (Jewish-style fried artichokes). Booking is a must. 7 Filetti di Baccalà MAP M4 Largo dei Librari 88 • • 06 686 4018 • Closed Sun • No credit cards • € A Roman tradition where little has changed for centuries. Juicy fried cod fillets are the main draw but other Roman standards are also on the menu. 8 Da Giggetto MAP M5 Via del Portico • d’Ottavia 21A–22 • 06 686 1105 • Closed Mon • €€ This bustling Ghetto classic stands Crispy fried artichokes next to the Portico d’Ottavia (see p110). It serves a magnificent version 2 Vecchia Roma MAP N5 Piazza Campitelli 18 • of carciofi alla giudia along with hearty pasta and sustaining meat • 06 686 4604 • Closed Wed, 2 weeks and offal stews. Aug • €€€ One of Rome’s finest institutions, noted for its historic interior, excellent 9 Sheva MAP M5 • Via Santa Maria del service and superb wine list. Pianto 1B • 06 9259 7940 • € Jewish specialities with a creative 3 La Taverna del Ghetto MAP N5 Via Portico• twist. Try the pasta with courgette, kosher dried meat and saffron, or d’Ottavia 8 • 06 6880 9771 • risotto with pumpkin and chestnut. Closed Fri D, Sat L • € Enjoy kosher cooking in the medieval dining rooms, or outside on the 0 Nonna Betta MAP M5 Via del Portico • piazza. Grilled fish is their forte. d’Ottavia 16 • 06 6880 6263 • Closed Tue • € 4 Ar Galletto MAP K4 Piazza Farnese 104 • A kosher-style restaurant with a long menu featuring Rome’s favourite • 06 686 1714 • Closed Aug • €€€ Jewish specialities, from famous A hearty trattoria serving traditional fried artichokes to anchovies with Roman food, with a pleasant terrace. endive and a variety of pastas. See map on pp106–7  114 ❯❯ Rome Area by Area The Spanish Steps and Villa Borghese Detail, Trevi Here is Rome at its most elegant, laid out Fountain under 16th-century papal urban planning schemes. Baroque popes redeveloped the area around the Corso, now called the Tridente after the three streets exiting Piazza del Popolo. The district exudes theatricality and stylishness, with Rome’s most fashionable passeggiata unfolding down the length of Via del Corso. THE SPANISH STEPS AND VILLA BORGHESE 750 m 750 m 300 m 300 m V IA V IA V i l Vl ai l l a 800 m 800 m RuR f fuof f o G IA G IA P.LE P.LE DEL DEL VIA VIA FIOCCO FIOCCO V I A LV I A L NTU NTU E F. E F. ON ON L A GL A G GT GT U A RU A R R CO R CO IN IN DIA DIA FLA FLA Stazione Stazione A SH ASH Flaminio Flaminio W W E E MIN MIN AL AL VI VI T O RTTOOR T O ROM RVOI A V. G G . D . I V. G RO RO VIA GN U U Flaminio E L EML M I IA M AG . D S I Flaminio A . B. . B. AGN D D E E VI DE V I DEE S R A V. L V. L V IC V IC AL L AL L . P S PIAZZALE PIAZZALE .O O E B RA O I L E O O FLAMINIO FLAMINIO S S. ASL VIA VIA E B IA IA PA I LO AV OAV O D I SD I S O E LO L LE V. LV. . L . P i nP ci n i oc i o DE DE L L PIAZZA PIAZZA V O IA V O IA DEL DEL VI VI POPOLO POPOLO LE LE G a Gl oa pl op pa pt oa it oo i o I S AI S A A A M M F. DF. D TR TR U U V IA V IA IN IN R R IT IT O O À À D D EI EI TO TO VIA VIA A. BR A.UN BRETUN ET M M Giardino Giardino R R TI TI ON ON di Villa di Villa TOTO VI VI TI TI Medici Medici A A NA NA VIA VIA LAU RI LAU RI LU LU G OT VIA VIA D. D.VAN TAG D D TAG GIO V. V. VANGIO EL EL VI VI N NG EV A A C ACMAMP OP O R I P E T TA R I P E T TA OT ERE BA BA UI M M AR N O AR B BU NO EV MMA RAZRIZOI O G G U U I TT TT D I P R TA TA ER A A I I REC REC OR E VIACANOVA VIA A. A. CANOVA D. G D. G O V IA V IA Fiu Fiu DI P IN IN O R IAO R IA DE DE V IT TV IT T me me V IA V IA Spagna Spagna AUG AUG VIA VIA L L V I A VAIRAAAPRAC A PI SAC I S CE CE U S TA U S TA C R OC R O Te v e r e Te v e r e DI DI D. D. V IA V IA PIAZZA PIAZZA DI DI E E VI VI OZZOZZ CO CO SPAGNA SPAGNA A A ARR ARR D . CD . C ANCESCO CRISPI ANCESCO CRISPI VIA VIA PIAZZA PIAZZA V IA V IA SI SI RS RS AUGUSTO AUGUSTO ST ST Ponte Ponte PIAZZA PIAZZA IN IN IMPERATORE IMPERATORE TI TI VI VI V IA V IA A A O O OT OT VIA VIA Cavour Cavour MIGNANELLI MIGNANELLI A A ND ND CO CO GR GR V I AV I AT O M A A T OAM CA V IA V IA ON ON E LCLEIL L I LARGO GN GN EG EG MA MA LARGO GO GO OR OR OR OR BEL BEL VI VI V. B V. B RIO RIO GOLDONI GOLDONI A A IA IA S IA N S IA N NA NA A A SE SE T T INT T IN DE DE HE HE FRA FRA D D A A 'F 'F U U RG RG VIA FR VIA FR E E BO BO L LO V IA V IA OR F. F. RI PIAZZA PIAZZA DI DI I VIA VIA M M E E SAN SAN LORENZO LORENZO ED ED AC AC LLI RC RC ME ME E EL 0 metres 0 metres 200200 600 m A DA. D . LI 600 m L L 0 yards 0 yards 200200 VI VI D ED E 500 m 500 m V I AV I A 850 m 850 m 200 m 200 m  The Spanish Steps and Villa Borghese ❮❮ 115 1 Galleria Borghese Worth seeing for its setting alone, this gallery is home to Rome’s best collection of early Bernini sculptures (see pp24–5). 2 The Spanish Steps and Piazza di Spagna MAP D2 This elegant, off-centre sweep of a staircase is Rome’s most beloved Rococo monument. Although it is at its most memorable in May, when it is covered in azaleas, it is littered with people drinking in la dolce vita all year round. Francesco De Sanctis designed the steps in 1723–6 for Spanish Steps and Piazza di Spagna VI VI AL AL ED ED King Louis XV, and their true name EL EL L’ U L’ U CC CC in Italian is Scalinata della Trinità dei EL EL LIE LIE Monti, after the church at the top RA RA PIAZZA PIAZZA SIENA DI DI SIENA (see p116). Hourglass-shaped Piazza di Spagna, named after the Spanish IA A NA Embassy nearby, is centred on NC N PI CIA V iVl il lal a Bernini’s Barcaccia fountain. Bernini’s N B oB rogr hg ehsees e father, Pietro, possibly helped train his PI son in making this tongue-in-cheek A A 1629 fountain of a sinking boat. The VI VI design ingeniously solved the ALAL IA IA problem of low water pressure by IT IT D' D' having a boat sprouting leaks rather V IA V IA O O RSRS than the more usual jets and sprays. C OC O P IE M P IE M PORTA PORTA LULU DODV OIVSIIS I 3 Santa Maria del Popolo PINCIANA PINCIANA ONTE ONTE This spectacular church offers VIA VIA CI A A a priceless lesson in Renaissance N AN N TO TO IO IO A LAZ LAZ IL I AIL I A PI CI V IA V IA SC SC SIC SIC and Baroque art, architecture and N VIA VIA AN AN PI V IA V IA sculpture (see pp38–9). A A D IA D IA B A RB A R L O ML O M EM EM V IA V IA A 4 Trevi Fountain IL IA IL IA Top 10 Sights I I see pp115–7 V I SV I S MAP P2 Piazza di Trevi DODO • LU LU V I AV I A Places to Eat Anita Ekberg bathed in it in La Dolce see p123 A A RI RI Vita; Three Coins in a Fountain taught LI GU IGU L High Fashion Boutiques us to throw coins in it over our shoul- E TOE TO see p120 VIAVIA EN EN der to ensure a return visit (healthier than the original tradition of drinking TO R I O V V The Best of the Rest V I T RIO see p118 the water for luck) – thanks to the O V I VIT T Pubs, Cafés and Bars movies, Trevi is one of Rome’s most A A see p122 familiar sights. The right relief shows VI Barberini Barberini PIAZZA PIAZZA Art and Antiques Shops a virgin discovering the spring from see p119 BARBERINI BARBERINI which Agrippa built the aqueduct N EN E I T OI T O T RT R Specialist Shops that still feeds the fountain. Salvi’s see p121 T RTERVEIV I Baroque confection is grafted onto a Classical triumphal arch (see p60).  116 ❯❯ Rome Area by Area twin-towered façade (1584) is by ROME’S EXPATS Giacomo della Porta; the double Since Goethe wrote his Italian Journey staircase outside (1587) is by (see p64), other Europeans have come Domenico Fontana. The Baroque here to study and enjoy the sunny interior has three chapels. Daniele climes. Although the Spanish Steps are da Volterra frescoed the third chapel known as the “English Ghetto” for the on the right and painted the Keats residence and Babington’s Tea Rooms, Goethe lived here too. It’s also Assumption altarpiece (which depicts home to McDonald’s and American his teacher Michelangelo on the far Express, and top students from the right); he also painted the Deposition French Academy are awarded the Prix in the second chapel on the left. de Rome to study at the Villa Medici. 5 Keats-Shelley Memorial MAP D2 Piazza di Spagna 26 • • 06 678 4235 • Open 10am–1pm, 2–6pm Mon–Sat • Adm • www.keats-shelley-house.org The apartment overlooking the Spanish Steps, in which John Keats took his last, consumptive breath in 1821, has been turned into a modest museum about the Romantic-era British poets who lived part of their lives in Rome (see p64). Documents, The grounds of Villa Medici letters, copies of publications and Keats’ death mask are on display. Joseph Severn cradled Keats’ head 7 Villa Medici MAP D2 Viale Trinità dei • as he died; his resultant sketch Keats Monti 1 • Open 9:30am-5:30pm Tue– on his Deathbed is also on exhibit. Sun (English tour at noon) • Adm • www.villamedici.it 6 Trinità dei Monti MAP D2 Piazza Trinità dei • Built in 1540, this villa was used as a prison for those who fell foul of the Monti • Open 6:30am–8pm Tue–Sun, Inquisition – its most famous inmate to midnight Thu was Galileo. Now home to the Crowning the French-commissioned French Academy, it is used for con- Spanish Steps, this church was certs and exhibitions. The gardens originally part of a convent founded and apartments can be visited on by Louis XII in 1503. The eye-catching guided tours. Highlights are the Stanza degli Uccelli, frescoed with flowers and birds, and the Niobidi, ancient Greek art showing the mas- sacre of Niobe and her 14 children. 8 Piazza MAP D2 del Popolo Rome’s elegant public living room started as a trapezoidal piazza in 1538. In 1589, Sixtus V had Domenico Fontana build a fountain crowned with a 3,200-year-old obelisk – the 25-m (82-ft) megalith, honouring Ramses II, was originally brought to Rome from Heliopolis by Augustus. Twin towers of Trinità dei Monti Napoleon’s man in Rome hired  The Spanish Steps and Villa Borghese ❮❮ 117 Giuseppe Valadier to overhaul the AN AFTERNOON ROMAN piazza to its current Neo-Classical PASSEGGIATA look in 1811–23, a giant oval that Piazza Santa Maria del Popolo del Popolo heads up the steep slope of the Pincio via a winding road (see p60). S. Maria in Caffè Canova Montesanto ll Brillo 9 Villa Borghese MAP D2 Entrances on Piazza • Parlante Piazza di Spanish Steps Galleria Flaminio, Piazza del Popolo, Via Spagna d’Arte Moderna Trinità dei Monti and Corso Italia One of Rome’s largest green spaces, Trevi Fountain San Crispino this is made up of public park, land- scaped gardens, statuary, fountains, Piazza SS Apostoli groves, pavilions and a water clock. There are also four museums: Begin in Piazza SS Apostoli to ancient Etruscan artifacts at Villa see its namesake church (see Giulia (see pp40–41), Renaissance p118) and the 2nd-century AD and Baroque art at Galleria relief of an Imperial eagle against Borghese (see pp24–5), modern art at the portico’s right wall. Continue Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna straight across Via dell’Umiltà and through the elaborate iron, (see p55), and the Museo Carlo Bilotti glass, and frescoed 1880s pedes- (see p118) has contemporary works trian passage. Turn right on Via di by Giorgio de Chirico (1888–1978). In Muratte to get to the beautiful 1608 Cardinal Scipione Borghese Trevi Fountain (see p118). Three turned these vast family lands just coins tossed backwards over your outside the Aurelian Walls into a shoulder should ensure a return private pleasure park, opened to the trip to Rome. Leave the square on public in 1901. In 1809–14, Giuseppe Via del Lavatore and turn left on Via della Panetteria for some of Valadier turned the adjacent space Rome’s best gelato at San within the city walls into the Pincio Crispino (see p78). gardens, a favourite passeggiata destination containing an elaborate Turn right up Via del Tritone and left on Via Francesco Crispi for tea house and an obelisk (see p68). the Galleria d’Arte Moderna at No.24 to admire some contem- porary art. Walk down Via Capo le Case and right on Via dei Due Macelli into Piazza di Spagna and the Spanish Steps (see p115). Spend as long as you like window-shopping along the grid of streets west of the piazza, but try to finish up by 5pm so you can work your way north – weaving between Via del Babuino and Via Margutta to see the art and antiques shops (see p119) – to Lake and pavilion, Villa Borghese Piazza del Popolo. Pause for a cappuccino at Caffè 0 Villa Giulia MAP D1 Piazzale di Villa • Canova (see p122). Visit Santa Maria del Popolo (see pp38–9) to Giulia 9 • Open 8:30am–7:30pm Tue– admire its Caravaggios, Raphaels Sun • Adm • DA and Berninis. Stop at Santa Maria in Montesanto (see p118) around Containing Italy’s top Etruscan 7pm for the Gregorian chant, then collection, celebrating the penin- get a pizza at Il Brillo Parlante sula’s first great civilization, which (Via della Fontanella 12), always flourished from the 8th to the 3rd popular with locals and visitors. centuries BC (see pp40–41). See map on pp114–15  118 ❯❯ Rome Area by Area The Best of the Rest 1 Via dei Condotti MAP D2 8 Casa di Goethe MAP D2 Via del Corso 18 • The “Fifth Avenue” of Rome, lined • Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun with chic shops and fashion (guided tours on request) • Adm boutiques of top-name designers. German author Goethe lived here After flirting with high-street retail from 1786 to 1788 (see p64); his chains in the 1990s, the street has letters are on display. been re-conquered by the haute couture that made it famous (see p80). 9 Santi Apostoli MAP N2 Piazza dei S Apostoli • Galleria Nazionale 2 d’Arte Moderna 51 • Open 7am–noon, 4–7pm Built in the 6th century, this basilica MAP D1 • Viale delle Belle Arti 131 was restructured in 1702–8. It has a • 06 322 981 • Open 8:30am–7:15pm trompe-l’oeil vault above the altar. Tue–Sun • Adm • DA The national modern art museum covers 19th- and 20th-century 0 Santa Maria dei Miracoli and Santa Maria in works. Mostly Italian art but some Montesanto pieces by international artists. MAP D2 • Miracoli: Via del Corso 528 • Open 7am–12:30pm, 4–7:30pm 3 Museo Carlo Bilotti MAP D2 Viale Fiorello la • daily • Montesanto: Via del Babuino 198 • Open 5–8pm Mon–Fri, Guardia (Villa Borghese) • Open 10am– 10:30am–1:30pm Sun 4pm (winter), 1–7pm (summer) Tue– Carlo Fontana built these late Sun, Sat & Sun 10am–7pm • Adm • DA 17th-century “twin” churches, A small art collection of Giorgio de although Bernini is said to have Chirico, Warhol and others. guided him in the decoration of the more elaborate Montesanto. 4 SS Ambrogio e Carlo al Corso MAP N1 • Via del Corso 437 • Open 7am–7pm daily Roman Baroque church (1669) by Pietro da Cortona, who designed the tribune, cupola and stuccoes. 5 Canova’s Studio MAP D2 Via del Babuino 150a • •Open 8am–8pm Mon–Sat The artist’s studio walls are embedded with fragments of statuary. 6 Galleria Colonna MAP N2 Via della Pilotta 17 • • Open 9am–1:15pm Sat or by appt (06 678 4350) • Closed Aug • Adm The gallery features work by Tintoretto, Lotto and Veronese. 7 Porta del Popolo MAP D2 Piazza del Popolo • Michelangelo used the Arch of Titus as the model for this gateway. Santa Maria dei Miracoli  The Spanish Steps and Villa Borghese ❮❮ 119 Art and Antiques Shops Libreria Il Mare, a bookshop focusing on all things nautical 1 Dott. MAP D2 Cesare Lampronti 6 Libreria Il Mare MAP D2 Via del Vantaggio 19 • • Via di San Giacomo 22 All the books and posters in this Internationally recognised dealer shop are about the ocean. They also in Italian Old Master paintings, have charts and a small selection of specializing in 17th and 18th century navigation instruments. landscapes and still life paintings, by artists ranging from the school of Caravaggio to Canaletto. 7 Galleria Moncada Valentina MAP D2 Via Margutta 54 • Benucci 2 MAP D2 • Via del Babuino 150C One of Italy’s most important contemporary art galleries. Trained Presitigious gallery specialising in in New York, Moncada is an interna- museum-quality 17th- and 18th- tionally recognized curator and century art and antique furniture. talent scout – exhibiting Tony Cragg, discovering Chen Zhen, and working 3 Galleria Veneziani MAP D2 Via Margutta 47 • with artists ranging from Anish Kapoor and Damien Hirst to Gillian A large gallery selling a wide range Wearing and Rachel Whiteread. of high-quality antiques, from furnishings and old oil paintings to statuary, vases and various objets 8 Monogramma Arte Contemporanea d’art. Definitely worth a browse. MAP D2 Via Margutta 102 • Occasionally works by international Contemporary gallery with exhibitions contemporary artists as well. aimed at presenting Italian artists to an international audience. 4 Maurizio Grossi MAP D2 Via Margutta 109 • 9 Danon Marble reproductions are on offer MAP D2 • Via Margutta 36–7 here – Classical and Renaissance Internationally recognised and long- sculptures, statues, busts and inlaid established Oriental rug dealer. coloured marble tables. Alberto di Castro 5 MAP D2 0 La Bottega del Marmoraro • Piazza di Spagna 5 MAP D2 Via Margutta 53B • Etchings, lithographs and other Homespun Italian homilies carved prints from the 1660s to the 1920s into scraps of marble are hung are on sale in this lovely shop. around a characteristic old workshop. See map on pp114–15  120 ❯❯ Rome Area by Area High Fashion Boutiques 1 Giorgio Armani MAP D2 Via dei Condotti 77 • Stylishly cool service for one of Italy’s top names. The Emporio Armani branch at Via del Babuino 140 sells the designer’s couture line at lower prices. The lowest-end line, Armani Jeans, is at Via del Babuino 70A. 2 Ferragamo MAP D2 Via dei Condotti 73–4 • The shoemaker to the stars during Hollywood’s Golden Age of the 1950s hasn’t lost its touch, but it now mass-produces styles rather than creating unique works. 3 Gucci MAP D2 • Via dei Condotti 8 Mannequin at Giorgio Armani The Florentine saddle-maker turned his leather-working skills into one of Italy’s early fashion successes. The 6 Gianni Versace MAP D2 Piazza di Spagna 12 • era of ostentatious interlocking “Gs” The house of the late fashion on everything is over, but the acces- designer never compromises the sories are still top notch. clothing’s flamboyant cuts and vibrant use of colour. 4 Valentino MAP D2 Piazza di Spagna 38 • 7 Fausto Santini The prêt-à-porter collection of this MAP D2 Via Frattina 120 • native Roman designer in the top Gorgeous, classically styled shoes at echelon of fashion since Jackie stratospheric prices. Styles for both Kennedy and Audrey Hepburn men and women. donned his clothes in the 1960s. Prada 5 MAP D2 8 Fendi MAP D2 • Largo Goldoni 420 •Via dei Condotti 88 Started by Adele and Edoardo Fendi This Milan fashion house with and nurtured by their five daughters, minimalist, slightly retro clothing is this Roman fashion empire reigns the most highly priced of the top over Italy’s rage for furs. Italian designers. 9 Boutique Ferretti Alberta MAP D2 Via Condotti 34 • Well-cut women’s clothing that is feminine yet powerful and modern. 0 Laura Biagiotti MAP D2 Via Mario de’ Fiori 26 • A well loved designer who has made stylish fashions for women since 1972. In menswear, she uses the soft wool that has earned her the Shop windows at Prada moniker “Queen of Cashmere”.  The Spanish Steps and Villa Borghese ❮❮ 121 Specialist Shops 1 IlModa Discount dell’Alta MAP D2 Via di Gesù e Maria 16A • This stock house sells mostly men’s and women’s clothing, plus acces­ sories. The staff are genuinely help­ ful. There are discounts of up to 50 per cent on Versace, Donna Karan, Armani, Dolce & Gabbana and more. Toys and crafts, Il Pesciolino Rosso 2 Profumum MAP D2 Via di Ripetta 10 • innovative Djeco range. Toys are handcrafted from natural, non­toxic The fragrances created by this materials and colours. Roman luxury perfumery include Alba, Acqua Viva and Confetto. Be prepared to empty your wallet. 6 C.U.C.I.N.A. MAP D2 Via Mario de’ Fiori 65 • The motto of this shop, which carries 3 Buccone MAP D2 Via di Ripetta 19–20 • the best in minimalist kitchenware, translates as “How a kitchen inspires Historic wine shop with a vast selection new appetites”. and excellent prices. Speciality Italian foods are on sale as well. 7 Fabriano Boutique MAP D2 Via del Babuino 173 • A luxury stationery shop carrying Italian­made product lines for the office and school, all manufactured to the highest quality. 8 ’Gusto MAP D2 • Piazza Augusto Imperatore 9 Heaven for fashionable foodies: cookbooks (there are plenty in English), kitchen gadgets, wine, glasses, table accessories. 9 Vertecchi MAP D2 Via della Croce 70 • This is the queen of Rome’s stationery stores, with hundreds of Wines and speciality foods, Buccone types of pens (the fancier ones are sold next door at No. 72), thousands 4 Enigma MAP D2 Via Margutta 61A • of notebooks as well as the very best in art supplies. Owned by Bulgari, this intriguing shop sells an exclusive line of watches, jewellery and accessories. 0 Quetzalcoatl MAP D2 Via delle Carrozze 26 • Taking the name of Aztec deity 5 IlMAPPesciolino Rosso D2 Via Bocca di Leone 49 • Quetzalcoatl – who the Aztecs believed gifted cacao seeds to This niche toyshop boasts a beautiful mankind – this chocolatier offers selection of aesthetically pleasing elaborately presented, exquisitely toys and craft activities, including the crafted chocolates. See map on pp114–15  122 ❯❯ Rome Area by Area Pubs, Cafés and Bars 1 Enoteca Antica MAP D2 Via della Croce 76b • 6 Ciampini du Jardin al Café Delicious antipasti and wine by MAP D2 • Piazza Trinità dei Monti the glass are served in this old- • Closed Nov–Feb fashioned lively establishment. Enjoy a drink while watching the sunset at this enchanting café. 2 Gilda MAP D2 • Via Mario de’ Fiori 97 7 Caffè Rosati Rome’s most central disco has MAP D2 Piazza del Popolo 4–5 • remained popular for years, with a Art Nouveau rival to the right-wing pizzeria in the evening and dance Canova across the piazza, this café music cranking up at midnight. has long been the haunt of left-wing High cover charge on weekends, intellectuals (see p79). but always an A-list crowd. Antico Caffè Greco 3 MAP D2 8 Caffè Canova MAP D2 Piazza del Popolo • Via Condotti 86 • 16–17 Rome’s premier literary café since The right-wing bastion in the long- 1760, best known for its popularity standing Piazza del Popolo café war, with the 19th-century English with cheaper espresso, better ice Romantic poets (see p78). cream and a restaurant upstairs (the Rosati is more stylish though). 4 Stravinskij Bar MAP D2 Via del Babuino 9 • 9 Babington’s Tea Rooms An impeccably prepared dry martini, MAP D2 Piazza di Spagna 23 • the classy atmosphere and the Good for a very pricey spot of tea and outdoor space in the enchanting daintily British edibles. Opened in garden of the Hotel de Russie (see 1893 by a Derbyshire lady, it was the p170) make this one of the most expat hub of the later Grand Tour era. exclusive bars in town. 5 Cinecaffé Casina delle 0 Ginger MAP N1 • Via Borgognona Rose 43/44 MAP E2 Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1 • Aimed at the health-conscious Located in the grounds of Villa fashionista – salads, vegan dishes, Borghese, this café serves drinks smoothies and interesting mains. and light lunches including salads, sandwiches and some seafood. Stylish, light-filled interior of Ginger  The Spanish Steps and Villa Borghese ❮❮ 123 Places to Eat PRICE CATEGORIES For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges. € under €40 €€ €40–60 €€€ over €60 6 Oliver Glowig Aldrovandi Palace, Via Fiaschetteria Beltramme Aldrovandi 15 • 06 321 6126 • Closed Sun & Mon • €€€ 1 Fiaschetteria Beltramme In-season ingredients and modern cooking techniques are key here. MAP D2 • Via della Croce 39 • 06 This classy poolside restaurant is a 6979 7200 • No credit cards • €€ great setting for the celebrated Regulars and tourists are fitted German chef’s edible artworks. around communal tables at this ultra-traditional trattoria just down the block from the Spanish Steps. 2 Edy MAP D2 • Vicolo del Babuino 4 • 06 3600 1738 • Closed Sun • €€ Some of the best food and lowest prices in this high-rent neighbour- hood. Mix of seafood and Roman Elegant interior of Oliver Glowig dishes. The candlelit tables out front are a nice touch. 7 Palatium MAP N1 Via Frattina 94 • 3 ’Gusto MAP D2 • Piazza Augusto • 06 6920 2132 • Closed Sun • €€ Bistro-style restaurant and wine bar Imperatore 9 • 06 322 6273 • € with the Slow Food ethos, using Modern and hip: combo wine bar, carefully sourced Lazian produce. restaurant and pizzeria. 4 Antica Birreria Peroni 8 AlMAP34D2 Via Mario de’ Fiori 34 • MAP N3 Via San Marcello 19/ • 06 679 5091 Closed Mon L €€ • • • Piazza SS Apostoli • 06 679 5310 Excellently priced menus featuring • Closed Sun • € inventive Italian cooking. 1906 beer hall with excellent, cheap food sponsored by Italy’s premier brewery – try their “Blue Ribbon” 9 Hamasei MAP N1 Via della Mercede • Nastro Azzurro label. 35/36 • 06 679 2134 • €€ Well-regarded, popular, minimalist 5 Massimo Riccioli MAP E2 Via Veneto 50 • • 06 Japanese restaurant with a sushi bar and more substantial dishes. 4214 4715 • Closed Sun, Mon • €€€ Sicilian Roman chef Massimo Riccioli made his name with seafood, but 0 Dal Pollarolo MAP D2 Via di Ripetta 4-5 • his talents stretch to meat as well. • 06 361 0276 • Closed Thu • € Lunch at this Majestic hotel restau- Pasta dishes include the popular rant (see p170) has good-value fixed- pasta alla checca, with raw tomatoes, price menus; dinner is more formal. fennel seeds, olives and capers. See map on pp114–15  124 ❯❯ Rome Area by Area Ancient Rome This area has always been a study in contrasts. In ancient times, the emperor’s palaces were built on the Palatine, not far from the docks where roustabouts heaved goods imported from around the world. Today, the area is again an enclave of smart houses and greenery, studded with hidden art treasures and some of the world’s finest ancient monuments and priceless archaeological finds. Baths of Caracalla ANCIENT ROME Cavour MO NTI Top 10 Sights VI O UR A C AV O see pp125–7 DE VIA LL PIAZZA DEL I FO CE CAMPIDOGLIO Traditional Roman RI AR IM Restaurants TRO DI M PE RI see p129 Monte AL Colosseo Capitolino I PIAZZA DEL Nightlife CO LO S S E O A . TE see p128 V. D L C AM P ITELLI T R A ST E V E R E VIA PIAZZA UN Ponte BOCCA D. GO ORIO CLA Palatino RE VERITÀ V IA IA T. RI PA Parco del VE UD IC Celio TE REG AN IA D Monte EI AS PIAZZA Palatino .D V I S. G TR MASTAI CL IVO DI NO EL Parco del SC AU RO CI Circo C E A DE R C Massimo R C TI VI DI VIA D H AN O EN M I Parco di GR AS C ELIO AV E Savello AL A NA SI IP M BI VI IR PIAZZA DI T. O SA R IPA D O PORTA PORTA CAPENA Villa P. G S. PORTESE Circo Celimontana VIA N I Massimo D LU A DI D I V. D VI PIAZZA SE O S. P Ponte CA . T N TEMPIO VI RA ER EN Sublicio TI A DI DIANA RIS CA ME EN U VIA SA RT LL AV CA N VIA A T' PO E IO MA Parco di AL AL C C ES CA Porta Capena VI A re RM AV E N T I SI AN A VI ve O ST BR OR PIAZZA Te TE I ALBANIA AT N VIA e N NA VA um A TIA IDE PIAZZA IO D. TESTACCIO Fi G E C E SI R A M NI SAN SAB ER VIA VI A DO Parco della VI BO IO AL LUNGOTEV Z B. B. NU Resistenza dell’ E .P G. MA I AN FR 8 Settembre G V. D A. V U AL AN A VIA V IA G ID KL O IN A A BA VI PZA. DI PORTA CC N S. PAOLO TESTACCIO AL TI EA LI RD V L E . D I P O R TA A Monte Testaccio Piramide V IL D E AT V IA Ponte AR VI A E IN E Testaccio AL LE Stazione E D. Porta San Paolo C. M OD VIA AR CO OA NS E PIAZZALE RD DEL DEI PARTIGIANI PO VIA OS TIE LO O LE Stazione R T O F LU V I A L E BE V IA EL PO PE LL EG Roma-Ostiense CC CON VIA D M AT TE RI UCCI NO AR I 0 metres 400 CE PI A ZZ OTTO A LE 12 BR E 14 92 0 yards 400 700 m  Ancient Rome ❮❮ 125 1 Roman Forum and Palatine Hill Once the heart of the Roman empire, these ruins are an eerie landscape that seems gripped by the ghosts of an ancient civilization (see pp20–21). 2 The Colosseum and Imperial Fora These monuments memorialize Imperial supremacy. The Colosseum embodies the Romans’ passion for brutal entertainment. Trajan’s Forum was called a Wonder of the World by contemporaries; the only remnant is Trajan’s Column – Roman sculptural art at its peak (see pp26–7). The elegant nave of Santa Sabina 3 Santa Sabina MAP D5 Piazza Pietro d’Illiria • 18 panels of biblical scenes, including the earliest known Crucifixion – 1 • 06 579 401• Open by appt only, strangely without any crosses. call ahead This church was built over the Temple of Juno Regina in about 425 4 Musei Capitolini The original motivation for to honour a martyred Roman these museums was political. When matron. In 1936–8 it was restored the popes started the first museum almost to its original condition, while here in 1471, it laid claim to Rome’s retaining 9th-century additions such hopes for civic autonomy – the as the Cosmatesque work and the Palazzo dei Conservatori was the seat bell tower. Corinthian columns are of hated papal counsellors, who ran surmounted by arcades with marble the city by “advising” the Senate. friezes and light filters through the Today the museums contain a spec- selenite window panes. The doors tacular collection of art (see pp28–31). are 5th-century carved cypress, with 5 Baths of Caracalla MAP E6 Via delle Terme di • Caracalla 52 • Open 9am–2pm Mon, 9am–1 hr before sunset Tue–Sun • Adm • DA Inaugurated in 217 and used until 546, when invading Goths destroyed the aqueducts. Up to 2,000 people at a time could use these luxurious thermae. In general, Roman baths included social centres, art galleries, libraries, brothels and palestrae (exercise areas). Bathing involved taking a sweat bath, a steam bath, a cool-down, then a cold plunge. The Farnese family’s ancient sculpture collection was found here, including Hercules, a signed Greek original. Today, the ruins of individual rooms can be seen. The ruins of the Baths of Caracalla  126 ❯❯ Rome Area by Area CLASS DIVISIONS AND POWER STRUGGLES 7 San Saba MAP E6 Piazza Gian Lorenzo • Bernini 20 • Open 8am–noon, The ceaseless struggle between the 4–7:10pm Mon–Sat, 9:30am–1pm, governing and the working classes is 4–7:30pm Sun & public hols typified by the history of this area. Originally a 7th-century oratory for Romulus on the Palatine versus Remus on the Aventine gave rise to patricians Palestinian monks fleeing their and plebeians respectively. The homeland, the present church is contrast still exists, between wealthy a 10th-century renovation, with Aventine and down-to-earth Testaccio. many additions. The portico of the 15th-century loggia houses a wealth of archaeological fragments. Greek 6 Piazza of the Knights of Malta style in floorplan, the interior deco- ration is mostly Cosmatesque. The MAP D5 greatest oddity is a Everyone comes here for 13th-century fresco the famous bronze keyhole showing St Nicholas about view of St Peter’s Basilica, to toss a bag of gold to ideally framed by an arbour three naked girls lying on of perfect trees (see p63). a bed, thus saving them However, it’s also worth from prostitution. a look for the piazza’s wonderful 18th-century decoration by Giambattista 8 Pyramid Cestius of Caius Piranesi, otherwise MAP D6 Piazzale Ostiense • renowned for his powerful This 12 BC edifice remains engravings of fantasy- a truly imposing monument antiquity scenes. To honour to the wealthy Tribune of the ancient order of cru- the People for whom it was sading knights (founded in built. It is 36 m (118 ft) high 1080), the architect chose and took 330 days to erect, to adorn the walls with according to an inscription dwarf obelisks and trophy Detail, carved upon it. Unlike armour, in the ancient style. San Saba Egyptian originals, however, Originally based on the it was built of brick then island of Rhodes, then Malta, covered with marble, which was the knights are now centred the typically pragmatic Roman in Rome. way of doing things. Pyramid of Caius Cestius  Ancient Rome ❮❮ 127 A MORNING PARKLAND STROLL Roseto Comunale Giardino degli Aranci Circus Maximus Santa Sabina Piazza of the Knights of Malta San Saba Volpetti Piu Parco della Resistenza Protestant dell’8 Settembre Cemetery Pyramid of Caius Cestius The parkland on the other side of the Circus Maximus from the Palatine Hill conceals exquisite early churches and other gems. Start on the south side of the Gallery at MACRO Testaccio Circus Maximus, now a sunken patch of dust and weeds, but once a majestic racecourse until 9 MACRO Testaccio MAP C6 Piazza Orazio • the popes plundered its stones to build their palaces. Head up the Giustiniani 4 • 06 6710 70400 hill to the Roseto Comunale (see • Open 4–10pm Tue–Sun • Adm p69). In spring and summer few • www.museomacro.org places in Rome radiate such Originally a working-class quarter beauty. Continue along the old that grew up around a slaughter- wall and enter Parco Savello’s house, Testaccio is now trendy area. Giardino degli Aranci (see p69) to take in the view from the parapet. The slaughterhouse has been con- Next door is Santa Sabina (see verted into a branch of the contem- p125). Use a torch and binoculars porary art gallery, MACRO (see p54) to scrutinize carved wooden with exhibitions and arts events, and doors and the Crucifixion scene. although the butchers remain, they Stop next at Piranesi’s Piazza of have been joined by shops with a the Knights of Malta and peer more ecological and organic outlook. through the celebrated keyhole. Monte Testaccio itself – formed by Wind down Via di Sant’Anselmo pottery shards – is home to the city’s until Viale Aventino and San Saba. more alternative nightclubs. Stop to appreciate the notorious St Nicholas fresco on the left 0 Protestant Cemetery MAP D6 Via Caio Cestio 6 • wall. In Parco della Resistenza dell’8 Settembre (see p69) you can get a gelato in the park’s café • Open 9am–5pm Mon–Sat, 9am– and admire the 3rd-century 1pm Sun • Donation Aurelian Wall (see p156). Also called the Acattolico (Non- Cross over to the lovely Catholic) Cemetery, Protestant Cemetery, pay your people of many faiths respects at the graves of Shelley, have been buried Keats and friends, pause to here since 1738. The reflect on the splendid Pyramid most famous are the of Caius Cestius and leave your English poets Keats donation in the box as you exit. and Shelley (see A five-minute walk north takes pp48–9). Until 1870, you to Volpetti, Rome’s premier crosses and refer- deli, or to Volpetti Piu, a tavola ences to salvation calda (café) just around the corner were forbidden. from the deli, both fabulous choices for lunch (see p129). Keats’ tombstone See map on p124  128 ❯❯ Rome Area by Area Nightlife 1 Planet Roma MAP D6 Via del Commercio • 6 Akab MAP D6 • Via di Monte 36 • DA Testaccio 68 • 06 5725 0585 Housed in a former factory off Via • Closed Sun, Mon Ostiense, Planet Roma is huge, with Set in an old carpenter’s workshop, three spaces, each of which plays the club has electro house on different music. Live music Thursday Tuesday and commercial house and Sunday, DJ sets Friday, and a Friday and Saturday. well-attended gay night on Saturdays. Occasional theme nights. 2 Sinister Noise Club Via dei Magazzini Generali 4B Club with vintage decor, downstairs bar and small upstairs dance floor. The music includes punk, metal, blues, experimental and alternative rock. Good selection of craft beers and other drinks. 3 Radio Londra MAP D6 Via di Monte • Testaccio 67 • DA One of Rome’s perennial favourites for an energetic night out. This is a noisy, buzzing rock-and-roll venue Crowds at a gig at Rashomon Club with an air-force theme. Londra hosts house music DJ sets, discos and occasional up-and-coming live 7 Rashomon Club Via degli Argonauti 16 bands. Food is also available. Great electronic music and performance space in the hip 4 L’Alibi MAP D6 • Via di Monte Ostiense area with an underground vibe. The liveliest night is Thurday. Testaccio 44 Historic gay club – the city’s largest and most famous – with several 8 Café de Oriente/Caruso MAP D6 Via di Monte • dance floors, lounges and a huge Testaccio 36 • DA terrace garden to cool off during the Occasional Brazilian bands rock the summer months. Can be a bit tacky samba, while the rest of the time at times. Note that entrance fees Latin-tinged disco gets you going. rise after 1am. Vinile 5 Via Libetta 19 9 Goa MAP D6 • Via G Libetta 13 • 06 5728 8666 One of Rome’s hottest nightclubs. Situated in post-industrial Ostiense, The crowds are fashionable and this large white-walled space with a the DJs playing here are among the barrel roof is very cool. Attracting an most famous in the world. older clientele, Vinile hosts artistic performances and evenings where DJs sit on a pedestal over the 0 Saponeria MAP D6 circular bar while playing vintage • Via degli Argonauti 20 music. Good food and delicious The crowd is young and the music cocktails are served. ranges from pop to house.  Ancient Rome ❮❮ 129 Traditional Roman Restaurants 1 Checchino dal 1887 MAP D6 Via di Monte • PRICE CATEGORIES For a three-course meal for one with half Testaccio 30 06 574 3816 Closed • • a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), Sun, Mon • €€ taxes and extra charges. Among the great Roman restaurants, € under €40 €€ €40–60 €€€ over €60 this offers offal-based delicacies such as rigatoni alla pajata (pasta with calf intestine). 5 Felice This stylishly simple trattoria 2 Agustarello MAP D6 Via G Branca 100 • in Testaccio is one of the best places in the city to try the traditional carciofi • 06 574 6585 Closed Sun • alla romana (see p74). • No credit cards • € Roman-style, heavy-duty dishes. Try coda alla vaccinara (oxtail), lingua 6 Osteria Degli Amici Via Zabaglia 25 MAP D6 • (tongue) and other peasant fare. • 06 578 1466 • Closed Tue • DA • € A traditional osteria created by two 3 Da Remo Quintessential Rome pizzeria, gourmet friends, serving Roman specialities in a friendly setting. cheap, authentic and always packed. Known for its scrocchiarella pizzas – thin crust with simple toppings 7 Angelina MAP D6 Via Galvani 24A • baked in a wood-fired oven (see p77). • 06 5728 3840 • € The old butcher’s tables and tiled 4 Volpetti Più MAP D6 Via A Volta 8/10 • walls are testimony of the restaurant’s past as a butcher’s • 06 574 4306 • Closed Sun • € store, and this is also reflected in Rome’s premier deli and the ideal the meaty menu. place to have a lunchtime sandwich or a picnic made to order. Around the corner, Volpetti Più is an upscale 8 Da Oio a Casa Mia MAP D6 Via Galvani 43–45 • self-service tavola calda with deli- • 06 578 2680 • € cious dishes to eat in or take home. No-frills trattoria with authentic versions of Roman pasta classics and plenty of offal offerings. 9 La Villetta dal 1940 MAP D6 Viale della Piramide • Cestia 53 • 06 575 0597 • €€ A favourite of 20th-century Surrealist painter Giorgio de Chirico and his passionately avant-garde artist friends. Serves hearty, traditional fare such as saltimbocca alla romana. 0 Ristopescheria Acquasalata MAP D6 • Via Luca della Robbia 15–17 • 06 5728 8729 • € The decor is unpretentious at this lively fish restaurant. Raw fish specials and traditional Italian recipes Artisanal deli products at Volpetti Più are made using the catch of the day. See map on p124  130 ❯❯ Rome Area by Area The Esquiline and Lateran In ancient times the largest of Rome’s seven hills was almost entirely an upper-class residential area. The western slope was densely populated and seen as a squalid slum. However, in the 4th century, this zone became central to the growth of Christianity. In setting it up as the official faith, Constantine did not dare step on too many pagan toes, so he set up centres outside town on the sites of holy tombs. The main one was San Giovanni in Moses, San Laterano. Today, this entire area is still Pietro in Vincoli steeped in history and religious mystique. THE ESQUILINE AND LATERAN Repubblica PIAZZA PIAZZA DEI DELLA CINQUECENTO E REPUBBLICA Top 10 Sights Giardini del AL N see pp131–3 RI LE VIA Quirinale I Stazione U A Centrale Roma Q N IO Termini Places to Eat EL Z Termini TO D A see p135 N RIN A VI UR O Clothing and Food VO VI Shops CA A IA V see p134 MON TI A VI PERN A PA N IS C. G IO A AL VA VI V IA BE Vittorio RT Emanuele N O N Cavour I V I A G I O VA N N I L A N Z A PIAZZA G IO O UR VITTORIO LI C AV O EMANUELE II TT I I P P O V. IA Parco di TE DE V N Traiano ESQ UILINO V. P VIA IF V M O O O IA L R TA RI MA NI LE DE EM IM GG VIA Colosseo ZO PE IOR AN RIA Parco E AN LI UEL Oppio M P I A Z Z A DEL E CO LO S S EO VIA Manzoni LIA ME I VIA AT LE ST LABI VIA RU DI CAN FIL CAMPITELLI S. A VI A LA IBE GIO NA VA NN R TO VIA Parco del I I R IO N LA Monte Celio TE CL RA IC E REGO Palatino NO FEL AU O PIAZZA S. LO OND AR ROT GIOVANNI IN LE C DIA ANO LATERANO V IA TEF I S. G S San O NT SP EZ IA AM DI S A Giovanni VI A LA D VI A V IA D RA V IA V IA TA R A A N TO BA DEL C EL IO M IO L' A N Circo LA EL N CIA SA Massimo Villa D NA VI NU V. Celimontana CE A VI VI GRE A OV D .T LL AP A A ER A VI PI M A A ED V. M A G N O IC Re di Roma US AR VIA 0 metres 500 AC DR AL GAL LIA LA A VI 0 yards 500  The Esquiline and Lateran ❮❮ 131 1 San Clemente MAP F4 Via di S Giovanni in • Laterano 108 • 06 774 0021 • Open 9am–12:30pm, 3–6pm daily (from noon Sun) • Adm to lower levels Architectural layers here reveal Rome’s history, from the 2nd century BC to the 15th century AD (see p51). 2 Santa Maria Maggiore MAP F3 Piazza di S Maria • Maggiore • Open 7am–6:45pm daily This basilica is a unique blend of architectural styles. The nave and its mosaics are original 5th century; the Cosmatesque work, apse mosaics and Romanesque bell tower are medieval; the coffered ceiling (of New-World gold) is Renaissance; and the domes and front and back façades are Baroque. Pope Sixtus V erected the Egyptian obelisk in 1587 as part of his overall town-planning, to provide landmarks for pilgrims. Santa Maria Maggiore The column in front was taken from the Basilica of Maxentius and Besides its grandiose Baroque bulk, Constantine in 1615 (see p51). the church boasts the world’s first baptistry, its octagonal shape the 3 San Giovanni in Laterano and Scala Santa model for all those to come. A building on the piazza houses the MAP F5 • Piazza di S Giovanni in Scala Santa, claimed to be the stairs Laterano • Open 7am–6:30pm daily to Pontius Pilate’s house that Jesus (cloisters 9am–6pm; baptistry ascended to face his trial. Tradition 7am–12:30pm, 4–7pm; museum says that St Helena, mother of 10am–5:30pm); Scala Santa 6am–1pm Emperor Constantine, brought it (6:30am summer), 3–7pm (3–6:30pm here from Jerusalem. Oct–Mar) daily • Adm for cloisters Founded by Constantine in the 4th century, this is the cathedral of 4 San Pietro in Vincoli MAP R4 Piazza di S Pietro in • Rome’s bishopric. Popes were Vincoli 4A • Open 8am–12:30pm, crowned here until the 19th century. 3–7pm daily (8am–12:30pm, 3–6pm Oct–Mar) • DA Michelangelo’s Moses is the unmissable experience here. Weirdly horned and glaring, the righteously indignant patriarch is about to smash the tablets in outrage at his people’s idolatry. This powerful sculpture was just one of 40 the artist planned, but never finished, for the tomb of Pope Julius II (see p57). The original shrine was built in the 4th century to house the chains supposedly used to bind St Peter in prison. It has been rebuilt since, first in the 8th century and Devotees climbing the Scala Santa again in the 15th century.  132 ❯❯ Rome Area by Area Depictions of angels and saints at Santa Prassede 5 Santa Prassede MAP F4 Via di S Prassede 9A • ESTABLISHMENT OF THE CHURCH • Open 7:30am–noon, 4–6:30pm This area played a central role in early daily (from 8am Sun) • DA Christianity. Although Constantine Built in the 9th century over a himself was not a convinced convert, 2nd-century oratory, the original his mother, St Helena, was untiring in her promotion of the new religion. She design is still discernible despite convinced her son to found the official restorations. In the central nave, a seat of the Bishop of Rome on the site stone slab covers the well where St of the ancient Laterani family villa, Prassede is said to have buried 2,000 which his wife Fausta had inherited. martyrs. Byzantine mosaic artists decorated the apse and the exquisite Chapel of St Zeno with jewel-hued, sculpture, this branch of the Museo gold-glinting work depicting saints, Nazionale Romano is perhaps the lambs, palm trees and poppies. most inspiring. The late 19th-century There is also a fragment of the building was built by the Massimo column that Christ was said to have family and later served as a Jesuit been bound to when he was flogged. college (see pp34–5). 6 Palazzo Terme Massimo alle 7 Santo Stefano Rotondo MAP F5 Via di S Stefano • Housing an extraordinary collection Rotondo 7 • Open 9:30am–12:30pm of ancient frescoes, mosaics and daily and 2–5pm winter, 3–6pm Tue– Sun summer The unusual shape of this church (468–83) may mean it was built over Nero’s round Macellum Magnum (meat market). Or perhaps its form was inspired by Jerusalem’s Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Recent digs have found a Mithraeum underneath. The structure is a delightful sanctu- ary, situated far from urban uproar, although 16th-century frescoes by Niccolò Pomarancio depict martyr- Santo Stefano Rotondo doms in sadistic fashion.  The Esquiline and Lateran ❮❮ 133 8 Domus Aurea MAP E4 Via della Domus • EXPLORING ROME’S EARLY CHURCHES Aurea • 06 3996 7700 • Open by Santa Maria Maggiore appt Sat & Sun only After the great fire of Rome in 64 AD, Santa Prassede Agata e Romeo Nero built a new villa decorated with Panella gold and precious stones, giving the villa its name, which means Golden Via dei Santi Quattro Coronati House. Later emperors, embar- San Clemente Cannavota rassed by his profligacy, tried to undo as much of it as possible. The Santi Quattro Coronati Flavians drained Nero’s lake to build San Giovanni in Laterano the Colosseum (see p26), and Trajan built Rome’s first great public baths MORNING over the original house. It was only in 1772 that archaeologists started Start with San Clemente (see excavations within the Domus Aurea. p51), with its fascinating layers. At the lowest level use a torch (flashlight) to appreciate the 9 Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale beautiful fresco of the head of a bearded man. Walk one block MAP F4 • Via Merulana 248 • 06 4697 over to the Via dei Santi Quattro 4831 • Open 9am–2pm Tue, Wed, Fri; Coronati to glimpse the produce 9am–7:30pm Thu, Sat, Sun • Adm market (see p81), then turn left • www.museorientale.beniculturali.it and walk up the hill to Santi A fine collection of Indian and Middle Quattro Coronati, a little-visited 4th-century church with remark- and Far Eastern art, from prehistoric able frescoes in the chapel (1246). Persian ceramics to 18th-century Continue on until you reach San Tibetan paintings. Gandharan art Giovanni in Laterano (see p131). from the 3rd century BC to the 10th The 13th-century Cosmatesque century AD is a highlight. These cloisters with gorgeously twisted Indian Buddhist works show Greek columns and mosaic inlays will influences due to the invasion of the make your visit truly memorable. region by Alexander the Great. Then head across the piazza for a hearty lunch at Cannavota (Piazza 0 Santi Giovanni e Paolo MAP E5 Piazzale SS Giovanni • S Giovanni in Laterano 20) or stop at Panella (see p134) on your way e Paolo 13 • Open 8:30am– to Santa Maria Maggiore. noon, 3:30–6pm daily AFTERNOON (until 12:45pm Sun) The home of these At Santa Maria Maggiore (see 4th-century martyrs p131) check out the ancient is still visible under column in front, then use binoc- the 5th-century ulars inside to examine the 5th-century mosaics lining the structure (see p63). upper reaches of the nave. Next, Except for the Late walk over to Santa Prassede, Baroque interior, where you can take in some of much of the church Rome’s most radiant Byzantine is medieval. The mosaics and a powerful painting 45 m (145 ft) bell of the Flagellation in the sacristy. tower’s base is that For sustenance after your of the 1st-century spiritual journey, walk back past Temple of Claudius Santa Maria Maggiore down Via that once stood here. Carlo Alberto for some creative and expertly made Roman dishes at Agata e Romeo (see p135). Santi Giovanni e Paolo See map on p130  134 ❯❯ Rome Area by Area Clothing and Food Shops 1 Via Sannio Market MAP G5 mostly clothing, accessories and shoes, but they also carry kitchen- Despite the influx of cheap, made-in- ware and more general furnishings. China clothes and designer fakes, this historic flea market still sells good-condition second-hand clothes and paraphernalia (see p81). 2 Nuovo Mercato Esquilino MAP F4 Via Mamiani and Via • Principe Amedeo Rome’s most ethnically diverse market. Come here for Chinese noodles and soya sauce, African and Asian vegetables, halal meat and Panella delicatessen and café spices from all over the world. Oviesse 3 MAP F4 6 Panella MAP F4 Largo Leopardi 2 • • Piazza Vittorio Chic contemporary deli-café with a Emanuele 108–10 fantastic range of freshly baked Fairly well-made clothing at bargain artisan breads, pizzas, savoury pies prices, plus a large selection of and salads to eat in or take away, cosmetics and toiletries. This is the and shelves of upscale grocery largest of several branches in Rome. products that make great presents. 4 Pompi MAP G6 • Via Albalonga 7/9 7 UPIM POP MAP F3 Via Gioberti 64 • Known as “the temple of tiramisu”, The trendy and more expensive this bar sells the popular dessert in branch of this mid-range department many different varieties, including store chain stocks popular clothing the must-try banana and strawberry brands and designer homeware. kinds. Also cakes, pastries, ice cream and lots of other goodies. 8 Leam MAP G5 • Via Appia Nuova 26 Coin 5 MAP G5 • Piazzale Appio 7 An extremely trendy clothing emporium with a factory outlet on Contemporary high-end department the top floor selling Prada and D&G. store, with reasonable prices. It’s Also has a huge online store. 9 Pacific MAP F4 Trading • Via Principe Eugenio 17 Rome’s biggest, longest established Asian supermarket with Thai pastes, Indian spices and Filipino ice cream. 0 Teichner MAP G5 Via Appia Nuova 2 • A haven of designer fashion. The outlet section sells last season’s items at discounted prices. Coin department store  The Esquiline and Lateran ❮❮ 135 Places to Eat PRICE CATEGORIES soupy pasta with ceci (chickpeas) For a three-course meal for one with half or fagioli (beans), the maltagliati with a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), fresh ricotta or the marvellous taxes and extra charges. slow­cooked guinea fowl. € under €40 €€ €40–60 €€€ over €60 5 La Carbonara MAP R3 Via Panisperma 214 • Agata e Romeo 1 MAP F3 • Via Carlo Alberto 45 • 06 482 5176 • Closed Aug, Sun • € Cozy new­wave osteria using organic • 06 446 6115 • Closed Sat L, Sun, produce in traditional Roman dishes. Mon L • DA • €€€ The eponymous couple divide the labour expertly, she as chef and he as 6 Pizza e Mortadella MAP R4 Via Cavour 279 • maître d’. Try the menu degustazione • DA • € for a sampling of each day’s master­ Gourmet deli. Crisp pizza, stuffed works. Book in advance (see p72). focaccia, spit­roast chicken, baked pasta dishes, vegetables and salads 2 Himalaya’s Kashmir MAP F4 Via Principe Amedeo • for a picnic. Mouthwatering cakes and tarts as well. 325-327 • 06 446 1072 • € Unpretentious and popular Indian restaurant – samosas, tandoori, thali 7 Daruma Sushi MAP R4 Via dei Serpenti 1 • • and all the usual accompaniments. 06 4893 1003 • DA • € Lively Japanese fast­food and take­ away place serving sushi, sashimi, miso soup and fresh noodles. Free delivery service to local hotels. 8 Enoteca 313 Cavour MAP R4 • Via Cavour 313 • 06 678 5496 • Closed Sun in summer • € This wine bar has developed into one of Rome’s most appealing restau­ Italian rants. Inventive Modern European dessert tiramisu menu using carefully sourced ingre­ dients. Fantastic cannelloni with wild 3 Osteria del Grillo MAP Q4 Salita del Grillo 6B • chicory, ricotta, and anchovies. • 06 6992 2183 • Closed Aug • DA • €€€ 9 Palazzo del Freddo MAP G4 Via Principe Eugenio • Super­fresh fish served both raw or 65 • 06 446 4740 • Closed Mon • € cooked. Select a fish from the cool Historic gelateria with an Art Deco counter and order it baked in a salt interior. Ice creams, granitas and crust, poached, roasted or grilled. bite­sized cubes called Sanpietrini. 4 Taverna Romana MAP Q4 Via Madonna dei • 0 La Bottega del Caffè MAP R4 Piazza Madonna dei • Monti 79 • 06 474 53253 • Closed Monti 5 • 06 474 1578 • € Sun D, Aug • € This bustling bistro and bar is the life Traditional, inexpensive lunches and and soul of Monti. Come for break­ dinners at this popular taverna. Try fast, a drink or a light meal. See map on p130  136 ❯❯ Rome Area by Area The Quirinal and Via Veneto The original hill of Rome, the Quirinal was mainly residential in Imperial times, noted for its grand baths and temples. In the Middle Ages, it reverted to open countryside and it Mosaic detail, wasn’t until the 16th century that it Baths of Diocletian again became important, when the crest of the hill was claimed for the pope’s new palace. Following that, important papal families built their large estates all around the area, including the Barberini, the Corsini and the Ludovisi. The Quirinal Palace has passed through many metamorphoses but the biggest change to the area came after 1870. The Ludovisi sold off their huge villa to developers, and Via Veneto and the smart area around it became an instant success with the wealthy classes of the newly unified country. This quarter speaks of elegance and power throughout all its ages. THE QUIRINAL AND VIA VENETO Villa Top 10 Sights A AN Borghese see pp137–9 CI N D ' I TA L I A PI C ORS O Places to Eat C A M PA N I A A VIA VI LUD OV ISI IA see p141 PORTA S IC IL V IA La Dolce Vita Venues V IA L PINCIANA DE O NI V I A L E TO R T PA G see p140 VI IA S IC IL COM V IA A MURO V IA BON PI EM CO NA VI V IA L L IN IA VI A IN C QU O N TE TT A O IN P LL OR VI TI TA . NA VI BE NO TIA A A IO US IP I TE O V IS SE CA LL VIA D N LU D SA VI LL ST O Castro A E A V IA M VIA EL R PA SA L LUSTIANO FI Pretorio VE B DA LE NE V IA M IA TO ST RD L. B TE G CRISPI RO A O O IS S ET N IA IT VI OL ER AT O A S V I RI N I C C ASTR O VI R BE A SIS BA TIN O PR ETO R IO VO VIA IN A IA ER F. LT V LF U Barberini V. L A N O X ZA RN R PIAZZA SO V. D X N VIA O V. E. O BARBERINI CE VI ER A ONE O . IC E LA T R IT IA PIAZZA D. IA GH N E DEL V ZO E L V REPUBBLICA AR D VIA V IA M AZ V. IL PIAZZA DEI M Repubblica CINQUECENTO A E VI G ia rd ini d e l AL Stazione Centrale IN VIA Q u ir i na l e Termini U IR LE Roma Termini Q A VI A N VI TO GI EL Z IO A OV RIN D A. AN UR A DE NI A N VO O VI PR GI CA PIAZZA DEL ET OL QUIRINALE IS IT A TI VI MON TI V. D .E 0 metres 500 IA SQ V UI LIN O 0 yards 500  The Quirinal and Via Veneto ❮❮ 137 1 Baths of Diocletian MAP F3 Baths of Diocletian: • Viale Enrico de Nicola 79 • Open 9am–7:45pm Tue–Sun • Adm • Aula Ottagona: Via Romita, Piazza della Repubblica • Open during exhibitions only One of the ancient world’s largest thermae, these public baths were completed in 306. A large section is now part of the Museo Nazionale Romano and holds a collection of epigraphs, stele and statues. The Aula Ottagona has two 2nd-century BC bronze sculptures, found hidden Santa Maria degli Angeli in a trench 6 m (20 ft) below the floor of the Temple of the Sun on the Quirinal hillside (see pp34–7). 3 Santa Maria della Vittoria MAP E2 • Via XX Settembre 17 Santa Maria degli 2 Angeli • Open 8:30am–noon, 3:30–6pm daily • DA MAP F3 • Piazza della Repubblica This 17th-century Baroque church • Open 8am–6pm daily • DA has perhaps Rome’s most ornate In 1561 the pope commissioned decor, most of it by Bernini. The most Michelangelo to transform the indulgent corner is the Cornaro central hall of Diocletian’s Baths, Chapel, home to Bernini’s shocking the frigidarium (cold plunge room), Ecstasy of St Teresa (see p57). into a church. The result is this over- whelming space, which gives a clear idea of how vast these public bathing 4 Palazzo Barberini MAP Q1 Via delle Quattro • palaces were. Even then, the finished Fontane 13 • 06 32810 • Open church takes up only half of the orig- 8:30am–7pm Tue–Sun • Adm • DA inal. Michelangelo had to raise the The Barberini sold their palace to floor 2 m (6 ft) in order to use the the state in 1949 to house part of the ancient 15 m (50 ft) rose-red granite National Gallery, which was founded columns the way he wanted to. in 1893 with the purchase of the Corsini Palace. Among the most famous works is the A ruined section controversial La of the Baths of Fornarina, sup- Diocletian posedly Raphael’s mistress, probably painted by his pupil Giulio Romano.  138 ❯❯ Rome Area by Area POWER AND ELEGANCE 8 Palazzo del Quirinale MAP P2 Piazza del Quirinale • Since the 16th century, the Quirinal Hill Open 8:30am–noon most Sundays • has been the elemental expression of (gardens open 2 Jun) • Adm • DA temporal power and dominion in Rome: • Scuderie del Quirinale: Via XXIV first the popes, then the kings, and Maggio 16 • 06 3996 7500 • Open now the presidents of the Republic. 9am–1pm Tue, Wed, Fri–Sun • Adm Since the late 1800s, Via Veneto has • www.scuderiequirinale.it complemented that raw clout with the charisma and glamour of great wealth The highest of the original seven and all that money can buy. hills, the Quirinal was also the enclave of the ancient Sabines in early Rome. Today, it is graced by Piazza Barberini 5 MAP Q1 5.5­m (18­ft) Roman copies of 5th­century BC Greek This could be called the originals of the piazza of the bees, the Dioscuri and their Barberini family prancing horses. The symbol (judiciously hill’s stark, imposing upgraded from horse­ palace, Rome’s flies when their for­ largest, was built tunes improved). Both in 1574 as a summer of the piazza’s Bernini papal residence, to fountains have large escape the endemic bees carved onto them malaria around the to let everyone know Vatican. In 1870 it who sponsored their became the resi­ creation. The central dence of the kings of figure of a triton Fountain, Piazza Barberini Italy and, since 1947, blowing his conch is Italy’s presidents have one of Rome’s most appealing and resided and held official functions memorable. The other fountain is a here. Across the piazza, the Scuderie simple scallop shell (see p61). del Quirinale is the former stables of the palace, used for horses, 6 Via Veneto MAP E2 This street boasts a number of belle époque grand hotels and pavement cafés. It enjoyed its famous dolce vita heyday in the 1950–60s, when movie stars posed here for the paparazzi. Today, the allure is sadly limited for anybody other than tourists, but every visitor to Rome should come at least once to take a stroll here. 7 Capuchin Museum Crypt and MAP E2 • Via Veneto 27 • Open 9am–7pm daily • Adm • DA A taste for the macabre may be all you need to enjoy this memento mori. Fantastically creepy chapels are decorated with mosaics made from the bones of dead monks, a few of whose cowled skeletons remain propped up in bone­built niches. Skulls and skeletons, Capuchin Crypt  The Quirinal and Via Veneto ❮❮ 139 EXPLORING THE QUIRINAL Doney Caffè Regina Baglioni Excelsior Hotel Via Veneto Capuchin Crypt & Aula Piazza Museum Barberini Ottagona San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane Quirinale Sant’Andrea Hill al Quirinale Scuderie del Quirinale Fountain, Quattro Fontane MORNING carriages and, eventually, motor Start on Quirinal Hill (or Monte vehicles until 1938. In the 1990s the Cavallo after the horse sculp­ tures). The Palazzo del Quirinale building was restored and converted is uninspiring. Walk across into Rome’s prime art exhibition the piazza to the Scuderie del space by architect Gae Aulenti. Quirinale for art exhibitions. Walk halfway down Via del Quirinale 9 Sant’Andrea al Quirinale MAP Q2 Via del Quirinale 29 • and find Bernini’s architectural tour de force, the church of • Open 8:30am–noon, 2:30–6:30pm Sant’Andrea al Quirinale. Inside, Tue–Sat, 9am–noon, 3–6pm Sun note the maritime motifs, sym­ • Donation • DA bolic of Andrew the fisherman. This may represent Bernini’s Continue on to Borromini’s San architectural peak, built between Carlo alle Quattro Fontane. Don’t 1658 and 1670, the only construction miss the masterful crypt and the exquisite cloister. Just outside are over which he was able to exercise the eponymous four fountains, total artistic control. The shallow, said to represent rivers. Two wide space needed an oval plan, blocks along, take a right to the counterpoised in the concave curving Aula Ottagona (see p137). The entrance. The eye is drawn around ancient bronzes of the Prince the elliptical interior, where canoni­ and the Boxer are amazing cal elements blend with sculptural expressions of controlled power. decoration to produce an elegant Take Via Bissolati to Via Veneto. harmony. For so small a church, the Check out the shops before impact is surprisingly grand. enjoying lunch at the elegant Doney Caffè (see p140). 0 San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane AFTERNOON MAP R2 • Via del Quirinale 23 Admire the belle époque Excelsior • Open 10am–1pm, 3–6pm Mon–Fri, Hotel (see p172), especially its 10am–1pm Sat & Sun. Mornings only cupola and sexually ambiguous Jul–Aug • DA caryatids. Don’t miss the public Borromini’s masterpiece appears rooms of the sublime Regina Baglioni (see p171), which about as radically freeform as positively reek of luxury. architecture could be in the 17th century. He filled this small space After soaking up all the opulence, with fluid undulations, which have walk down to visit the Capuchin Crypt and Museum to put things complex geometrical relationships. back in perspective. End your He succeeded in blurring the line tour at Piazza Barberini and between architecture and sculpture, Bernini’s marvellously life­ resulting in a homogeneous interior affirming Triton Fountain. topped by an oval dome. See map on p136  140 ❯❯ Rome Area by Area La Dolce Vita Venues 1 Doney Café MAP E2 Via Veneto 141 DA • • One of the best spots in the world to sit under the magnolias, sip a cappuccino and watch passers-by – although they’re mostly tourists now, not the celebrities of old (see pp78). 2 Crispy MAP E2 • Via Francesco Crispi 80 • DA An organic market and bio takeaway. A great spot to buy organic products and fruit and veg, or to buy a vegan meal to eat or take home. They also serve energy drinks and fruit shakes. Harry’s Bar 3 Raphael MAP E2 Via Veneto 96/98 • 6 Harry’s Bar MAP E2 Via Veneto 150 • • DA Noted for its clubby American style – This collection of designer shoes, a dry Martini, tuxedo and cigar sort leather goods and other fashions is of place, featuring a piano bar, a nothing short of fabulous. restaurant with gourmet cuisine and a café with tables outside. 7 Brunello MAP E2 Via Veneto 72 • Sumptuous Oriental interiors and a chic clientele make this hotel- restaurant a great place for watching the city’s rich and beautiful crowd. 8 Jackie O’ MAP E2 Via Boncompagni 11 • • DA As the name implies, this was a La Terrazza dell’Eden leading watering-hole and club in the 1960s. It still attracts international 4 La Terrazza dell’Eden MAP E2 Via Ludovisi 49 • stars. Call ahead if you are not famous. At the top of the erstwhile premier celebrity hotel, this bar-restaurant 9 Hard Rock Café MAP E2 Via Veneto 62/A/B • has perhaps the best views in Rome. • DA It’s perfect for a romantic tête-à-tête It was inevitable that this well-known or any special do (see p170). international chain would choose Via Veneto for its Roman home. 5 Gran Caffè Roma MAP E2 Via Veneto 32 • • DA Serves standard American fare. Located in an elegant curve of the street, with outdoor tables at the 0 Arion MAP E2 • Via Veneto 42 DA • bottom of a broad staircase. A great Independent bookshop specializing spot to linger over your cappuccino in exquisite art books. It stays open and newspaper. until 9pm on Sundays.  The Quirinal and Via Veneto ❮❮ 141 Places to Eat 1 Café Veneto MAP E2 Via Veneto 120 06 • • PRICE CATEGORIES For a three-course meal for one with half 9594 5956 Closed Mon DA €€€ • • • a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), Right in the heart of the famous taxes and extra charges. street, habitués find elegance and € under €40 €€ €40–60 €€€ over €60 carefully prepared fare. Specialities include game and truffles. W.O.K 2 MAP F3 7 La Giara MAP E2 Via Toscana 46, at • • Stazione Centrale Via Sardegna • 06 4274 5421 Roma Termini, Via Marsala SNC • Closed Sun L in summer, L and D • 06 474 3777 • DA • Open daily • € in winter, Aug • DA • €€ Noodles, rice, Thai curries and other A traditional trattoria with an dishes wok-fried to order within the unpretentious charm. The menu revamped atrium of Termini station. includes mussels with port and curry. 3 Colline Emiliane MAP E2 Via degli Avignonesi • 22 • 06 481 7538 • Closed Sun D, Mon • DA • €€€ The speciality here is Emilia-Romagna cuisine, which highlights a variety of prosciutto (ham) dishes and tortellini in brodo (meat-filled pasta in broth). 4 Trimani MAP F2 Via Cernaia 37/B • • 06 446 9630 • Closed Sun • DA • € Conservatory, Open Colonna A classy wine bar with a full menu of soups, pastas and cured meats. 8 Open Colonna MAP Q2 Palazzo Delle • Dagnino 5 MAP E3 • Via Vittorio Esposizioni, Via Milano 9A • 06 4782 2641 • €€€ Emanuele Orlando 75 & Via Torino 95 Contemporary restaurant in the • 06 481 8660 • DA • € stylish glass conservatory of Palazzo Rome’s favourite spot for Sicilian delle Esposizioni. Modern European pastries such as cassata (iced cake). cooking by highly regarded chef, Antonello Colonna. Excellent deals 6 Andrea MAP E2 Via Sardegna 28 • for family brunches at weekends. • 06 482 1819/474 0557 • Closed Sat L, Sun • DA • €€€ 9 Sapori Sardi MAP E2 Via Piemonte 79 • Very congenial with a wide-ranging • 06 474 5256 • DA • € menu. The supplì (rice croquette) is A pleasant setting with fine Sardinian a classic starter. dishes and mirto liqueur. 0 Africa MAP F2 • Via Gaeta 26 •06 494 1077 • Closed Mon • DA • € Scoop up spicy vegetables and meats with spongy bread. Risotto at Andrea See map on p136  142 ❯❯ Rome Area by Area Trastevere and Prati The Bohemian neighbourhood of Trastevere (“across the Tiber”), a former working-class area, has retained its medieval essence despite now being one of the most restaurant- and nightlife-packed zones of the city. The Borgo is Vatican turf, with kitsch religious souvenir shops and tourist-orientated cafés, while Prati to the Statue, Ponte north is one of Rome’s most genuine, Sant’Angelo non-touristy, middle-class districts. TRASTEVERE AND PRATI 400 m Lepanto Top 10 Sights O T TAV I A N O IE 2 km M IL IZ V IA ARE see pp143–5 DEL LE CES F. M IA L E L IO V I AL O N N G IU CO V V IA Ottaviano Fine Dining V IA ASS LE M. A V IA see p153 IM O E Z IO SAN A. VIA L PRATI NZO TA M ICO RIE Locals’ Favourite MAN DI VIA A GER Shops EON A URA V IA V IA COL V IA VIA see p147 C IC V IA E IV TA C ERO V IR G The Best of the Rest ITO NE PIAZZA DEL IL IO RISORGIMENTO VIA CRESCENZI see p146 PTA. ANGELICA O V IA A AD Pubs, Cafés and Bars VIA DI LB ER RI ICO II AN see p150 A A ZZ BOR GO VITT ORI O PIA B O R G O PI O Live Music Venues see p151 BORGO PIAZZA S. VIA D. CO N CIL I A Z I O N E AN O Cheap Eats TIC PIETRO VA see p152 B O R G O S . S P I R I TO . OT LUNG Ponte Vittorio A GALLERI Emanuele II PONTE Trastevere PORT A PRIN CO E M A V. LLEGGERI MEDEO SAVOIA CIP E RS PIAZZA TRILUSSA VA AO S TA AN O V CA UE IT T V. VI A LE O R D. V. II IO SC D. D ELL AL MO A RO VI E A FORN Ponte G. GI Mazzini UL AC I V. D. LUN GA VIA S . PIAZZA RA IA Stazione di LU S. MARIA San Pietro NG TRASTEVERE FRA OT .D LES VI N SA .F A CES DI R A NU RI O NE OV R IA V. L. MANARA DEI SI A D. F O R N A C I A N V IA S IN I Gianicolo C OR See Trastevere LU N G OT. D E I C V IA EN PIAZZA inset, above Ponte CI Villa GIUSEPPE Garibaldi I LD Abamelek GARIBALDI V. DC A L A V IA D E L L E F O R A C I BA S LU NG ELL RI V. DE LLA OT GA LUN GA RA .D A G. .A V. N VIA AURE GU LI V. G. G A R I B IL LA A L DI A TRASTEVERE N V. L. MANARA RA RE NT A VE ICA PIAZZA S. V. G PIAZZA COSIMATO TE MASTAI .M AS AM VIA TR 0 metres 500 LE ELI DI GL OR LE 0 yards 500 IO 400 m SO VIA  Trastevere and Prati ❮❮ 143 The magnificent St Peter’s Square in front of the basilica, Vatican City 1 Vatican City One of the great museum 4 Santa Maria in Trastevere complexes of the world includes MAP K6 • Piazza S Maria in Trastevere Michelangelo’s famous Sistine • Open 7:30am–9pm daily Chapel and the extensive Raphael Rome’s oldest church dedicated to Rooms (see pp12–15). the Virgin was founded on the site where a font of oil spouted the day 2 StThePeter’s Basilica capital of Christendom Christ was born. The miracle is depicted in the stupendous Life of is packed with works by Bernini and the Virgin mosaics (1291) by Pietro statues by Michelangelo. The pano­ Cavallini in the apse. The current ramic views from the dome are 12th­century church has ancient breathtaking (see pp16–17). mismatched columns, 13th­century mosaics, a Cosmatesque pavement 3 Villa Farnesina MAP J5 Via della Lungara • and a rare 7th­century panel painting of the Madonna della Clemenza in the 230 • Open 9am–2pm Mon–Sat chapel left of the altar (see p51). (9am–5pm every second Sat of month) • Adm Peruzzi’s sumptuous villa (1508–11) was built for papal banker Agostino Chigi, whose parties were legendary – he would toss silver platters into the Tiber after each course. In a downstairs room, Peruzzi painted Chigi’s horoscope on the ceiling, Sebastiano del Piombo painted scenes from Ovid’s Metamorphoses, and Raphael painted the sensual Galatea. Peruzzi’s upstairs hall features a trompe-l’oeil balustrade overlooking hills. The 1527 graffiti by Charles V’s troops is now protected as historic vandalism. The bedroom contains Sodoma’s 1517 Wedding Night of Alexander the Great (see p58). Santa Maria in Trastevere  144 ❯❯ Rome Area by Area plague from its tower, marked by ST CECILIA the bronze statue of a sword-bearing Cecilia was a Roman patrician and archangel. There are frescoed secret Christian. In 230 she was locked Renaissance papal apartments and in steam baths by political enemies for a small arms and armour collection, three days. She came out singing (thus plus stunning panoramas of the city becoming patron saint of music), so from the ramparts. they tried to behead her, but the three strokes allowed by law initially failed. Cecilia lingered for three days, converting scores to her faith. 6 Santa Cecilia in Trastevere MAP D5 • Piazza di S Cecilia 22 • Open 10am–1pm, 4–7pm daily; frescoes open 10am–12:30pm • Adm for crypt and frescoes This church is reputedly built over the house of the martyred Cecilia. Look for the Guido Reni painting of her decapitation. Under the apse’s glittering 9th-century mosaics rests a 1293 baldacchino by Arnolfo di Cambio and Stefano Maderno’s 1600 statue of the saint (he saw her incorrupt body when her tomb was opened in 1599). Ring the bell on the Museo di Castel Sant’Angelo left aisle to see the top half of Pietro Cavallini’s Last Judgement (1289–93), 5 Museo di Castel Sant’Angelo his only remaining fresco in Rome. MAP J1 • Lungotevere Castello 50 • Open 9am–7:30pm Tue–Sun • Adm 7 Vatican Gardens MAP A2 Viale Vaticano • Rising above the river, Hadrian • Tours daily except Wed and Sun designed his massive circular tomb (06 6988 4676, www.vatican.va) in 123–39. Aurelian fortified it in • Adm (includes entry to Vatican 271 as part of his city walls (see museums) • DA p156). It was the papal castle for Typical 16th-century Italianate 1,000 years – a viaduct from the gardens of lawns, woods, grottoes Vatican let the popes scurry here in and fountains. Structures include the times of crisis. Gregory the Great first Vatican radio tower, designed by named it in 590 after a vision of St Marconi in 1931, Pier Luigi Nervi’s Michael announced the end of a shell-shaped audience hall (1971) The serene lawns of the Vatican Gardens  Trastevere and Prati ❮❮ 145 and the Mannerist Casina of Pius IV A TOUR OF TRASTEVERE (1558–61), home to the Pontifical Academy of Sciences. Villa Farnesina 8 San Francesco a Ripa Pizzeria Dar Poeta Orto Museo di Roma MAP C5 Piazza di S Francesco • Botanico in Trastevere d’Assisi 88 Open 7am–1pm, • Piazza Santa Maria 2–7:30pm daily Santa San San Pietro Though altered during the in Montorio Maria in Crisogno Trastevere Santa Renaissance and Baroque eras, the Cecilia church was built just 12 years after St Francis stayed at this hospice in San Francesco a Ripa 1219. Ask the sacristan’s permission to visit the cell in which St Francis MORNING stayed, which contains a copy of his portrait by Margaritone d’Arezzo. Begin at San Crisogno (see p146); The last chapel on the left houses ask the custodian to let you into the excavations downstairs. By Bernini’s Beata Ludovica Albertoni 10am be at San Francesco a Ripa (1671–4) shown in a state of religious for the five minutes it takes to see ecstasy. The chapels have recently Bernini’s sculpture. Head down been restored. Via Anicia Antica, right on Via Madonna dell’Orto, and left on Via di S Michele to reach Santa Cecilia. Explore the crypt and pay the nuns a small donation to get up to see the Cavallini frescoes. Head out of the courtyard left onto Via di Genovesi, which leads to Viale Trastevere. Crossing Piazza S Maria in Trastevere, bear right into Piazza S Egidio and fork left onto Via della Scala. Continue past Santa Maria della Scala and up Via della Lungara to Villa Farnesina (see Bernini’s Beata Ludovica Albertoni p143). You’ll be here before noon, time enough to spend 30 minutes 9 Gianicolo MAP B4 admiring the frescoes. Take a breather amid the greenery of the Orto Botanico (see p146), then This long ridge separating Trastevere return to the heart of Trastevere from the Vatican offers some of the to enjoy a pizza at Pizzeria Dar best views of Rome (see p63). Its two Poeta (see p152). equestrian monuments celebrate Garibaldi and his wife Anita, who is AFTERNOON buried underneath hers. Peruse the collections of the Museo di Roma in Trastevere 0 Ponte MAP J2 Sant’Angelo (see p146), visit the marvellous medieval church of Santa Maria Hadrian built this bridge in 133–4 to in Trastevere (see p143) and access his mausoleum, but only the walk up Via Garibaldi to peek three central arches of that span through the grille at Bramante’s Tempietto in the courtyard of remain. Clement VII had the statues San Pietro in Montorio (see p146). of St Peter (by Lorenzetto) and St Paul Or simply spend the afternoon (by Paolo Taccone) installed in 1534. wandering the medieval streets, Clement IX hired Bernini in 1688 to awaiting the dinner hour when design the statues of 10 angels Trastevere comes to life. holding symbols of the Passion. See map on p142  146 ❯❯ Rome Area by Area The Best of the Rest The small Tiber Island, associated with medicine and healing 1 Tiber MAP M6 Island 6 Santa Maria della Scala MAP K6 Piazza S Maria della • It is said that the serpent of medical Scala 23 • Open 10am–1pm, god Aesculapius jumped ship and 4–7:30pm daily swam ashore here in 293 BC. Rome’s A charming Renaissance church, maternity hospital is still here. whose claim to fame is a Virgin and Child by Cavalier d’Arpino, who was 2 Palazzo Corsini MAP J5 Via della Lungara 10 • Caravaggio’s teacher. • Open 8:30am–7:30pm Wed–Sun • Adm 7 Fontana MAP B5 Paola Small painting collection, featuring This wide basin at the end of the works by Fra’ Angelico, Van Dyck, Paola aqueduct is a favourite Titian, Rubens and Caravaggio. backdrop for wedding photos. 3 San Pietro in Montorio MAP C4 Piazza San Pietro in • 8 Villa Doria Pamphilj MAP B5 Via di S Pancrazio • Montorio 2 • Church: Open 8am–noon, • Open 7am–sunset daily • DA 3–4pm daily. Temple: Open Rome’s largest public park was 9:30am–12:30pm, 2–4:30pm Tue–Fri, established in 1644–52 by Camillo 9am–3pm Sat Pamphilj. It is a great place for Bramante designed the mini-temple picnics (see p68). to mark the spot where St Peter was supposedly crucified. 9 Museo di Roma in Trastevere 4 Orto Botanico MAP J5 Largo Cristina di • MAP K6 • Piazza di S Egidio 1b • Open 10am–8pm Tue–Sun • Adm Svezia 24 • Open Apr–Sep: 9:30am– Housed in a beautifully restored 6:30pm; Oct–Mar: 9:30am–5:30pm former convent, this museum Mon–Sat • Adm • DA includes life-size dioramas of Palazzo Corsini’s gardens are now Ancient Roman rooms and shops. Rome University’s botanical museum. 5 Ponte Rotto 0 San Crisogono MAP L6 Piazza S Sonnino 44 • MAP N6 • Open 7–11:30am, 4–7:30pm Mon– Rome’s first stone bridge (181–142 BC) Sat, 8am–1pm, 4–7:30pm Sun • Adm was ruined in 1598. Three arches were The 1626 façade copies the medieval retained until 1886, when two were one. Inside are 22 ancient columns destroyed to make way for Ponte and excavations of the original Palatino (rotto is Italian for broken). 5th-century basilica.  Trastevere and Prati ❮❮ 147 Locals’ Favourite Shops 1 Coin L’Artigianino MAP C2 Via Cola di Rienzo 173 6 MAP C4 Vicolo del Cinque 49 • • This good-value department store is Prices for L’Artigianino’s pure-leather where real Romans shop, for back- wallets, bags, purses and belts to-school clothes, kitchen utensils, range from €5 to €200. Styles are stationery, household appliances and mostly colourful and cute but there much, much more. There’s also a are classic designs, too. supermarket in the basement, which is great for buying a picnic. 7 Ottimomassimo MAP C5 Via Manara 16/17 • Franchi 2 MAP C2 • Via Cola di Rienzo 200 The best of children’s publishing in Italian, as well as a good selection of One of the best grocers in the city, guides for children, plus activities Franchi is extremely popular at and bookclubs. There are also books lunchtime for its hot dishes and in in English, French and Spanish. the evening for its fried, baked and stuffed pizza pockets. Locals start queueing up at 5pm. 8 Costantini MAP C2 Piazza Cavour 16 • This fine wine cellar has an excellent selection at reasonable prices. 9 Sabon MAP C2 •Via Cola di Rienzo 241 Luxurious soaps, toiletries and candles made with natural ingredients are sold here. 0 Polvere di Tempo MAP L6 Via del Moro 59 • Speciality foods at Castroni The non-mechanical timepieces, including hour glasses, sundials, 3 Castroni MAP C2 Via Cola di Rienzo 196 • candle clocks and astrolabes, are all made by the owner. The gastronomic temple of Rome since 1932, this shop is piled high with packaged and prepared speci- ality foods from countries the world over, such as Japan, Greece, India, China and the Middle East. 4 Boutique Gallo MAP C2 Via Ovidio 18 • High-quality knitwear. Specializes in colourful and striped socks and stockings but also has clothes for children and women. 5 Peroni snc Piazza dell’Unità 29 From baking pans to chocolate thermometers, Peroni sells an amazing range of baking equipment plus other kitchen goods. Timepieces at Polvere di Tempo See map on p142  150 ❯❯ Rome Area by Area Pubs, Cafés and Bars 1 Ombre MAP K6 Rosse 5 Caffè della Scala MAP K6 Via della Scala 4 • • Piazza S Egidio 12–13 A pretty, Bohemian café with seats This laid-back pub is a staple of outside for people watching. Highly Trastevere nightlife. The atmosphere recommended for when a lazy is always lively, with tables on the evening aperitivo is called for. piazza in summer. Freni e Frizioni 2 MAP K5 6 Ditta Trinchetti MAP L6 Via della • Via del Politeama 4 • Lungaretta 76 A former mechanic’s garage has This is a wonderful tavola calda and been transformed into a hip aperitivo delicatessen – try their Puglian spot serving a buffet during the burrata (fresh cheese made from summer. The bar overflows into a mozzarella and cream), superior pretty outdoor courtyard. sandwiches, and hot dishes that include a great bean soup in winter. 7 Enoteca Trastevere MAP L6 Via della • Lungaretta 86 A thriving wine bar, with a pleasingly dark wood interior and plenty of seating out front on the cobble- stones. Light snacks and cocktails are served too. 8 Enoteca Ferrara MAP K5 Piazza Trilussa 41 • This bustling wine bar has a very loyal following of conoisseurs, not surprising as it is known for serving up some of the best wines by the Cool aperitivo bar Freni e Frizioni glass in the city. There’s an in-house deli, and a lovely back garden for 3 Bar San Calisto MAP K6 Piazza San Calisto 3 • when the weather is good. This quiet neighbourhood bar is the antithesis of the trendy Trastevere 9 IlMAPBaretto C4 Via Garibaldi 27G • scene. Locals come here to play There’s an appealingly vintage cards, read papers and catch up atmosphere at this informal aperitivo on the day’s gossip. There is a bar. Great drinks and the occasional welcoming atmosphere and drinks live concert make it a popular at reasonable prices. nightspot for locals. 4 Caffè di Marzio MAP K6 Piazza di Santa • 0 Forno la Renella MAP K6 Via del Moro 15–16 • Maria in Trastevere 15 Romans flock here from all over the This café is a perfect place to sit and city for their bread, pizza, focaccia admire the façade of the basilica of and biscuits. Try it and you’ll under- Santa Maria in Trastevere – one of stand why. Everything is baked in Rome’s oldest – and watch life unfold their wood-fired ovens, and the in the lively piazza. They have good toppings and fillings change coffees, pastries and hot chocolate. according to season. Previous pages the Vatican City from the Ponte Umberto  Trastevere and Prati ❮❮ 151 Live Music Venues 6 Fonclea MAP B2 Via Crescenzio 82 • Established in 1977, this historic music venue is located close to Piazza del Risorgimento and features a variety of live music including jazz, soul, funk and rock. Punters can either drink at the bar or eat in the buffet restaurant. Blues venue Big Mama 7 Birreria Trilussa MAP K6 Via Benedetta 19 • Beer and simple dishes are served 1 Big Mama MAP C5 Vicolo S Francesco • until the early hours, with live music some nights. There’s a cozy, a Ripa 18 traditional atmosphere. Rome’s real house of blues, which attracts both big names and smaller acts. Daily live performances by 8 Da Meo Patacca MAP D5 Piazza dei Mercanti 30 • established and upcoming artists. A Roman restaurant famous for its music nights, with local singers 2 Alexanderplatz MAP B1 Via Ostia 9 • performing stornelli and Roman songs. A little bit off the beaten track, in Prati, but the best jazz club in Rome bar none – Winton Marsalis, Lionel Hampton, George Coleman and many other international jazz stars have played here. 3 AkBar MAP M6 • Piazza in Piscinula 51 The non-matching furniture and colourful decor reflect this bar’s bohemian spirit. Cappuccinos are served in refined china cups. Open all day with live music at weekends. Auditorium Conciliazione 4 Saxophone Pub MAP B1 Via Germanico 26 • 9 Auditorium Conciliazione This warm, cozy spot, close to the MAP B3 Via della Conciliazione 4 • Vatican, serves simple pub fare On the road to St Peter’s Basilica, including salads and sandwiches. this auditorium hosts classical and There is always a friendly contemporary concerts, dance atmosphere, with jazz and blues spectacles, film screenings and on the stereo and local bands that art exhibitions. come here to jam. Four Green Fields 5 MAP B1 0 Lettere Caffè MAP C5 Via S. Francesco a • • Via C Morin 42 Ripa 100 Upstairs there is a vaguely British- The focus here is usually on books, style pub, while in the basement but a couple of nights a week are live music is played nightly. devoted to live roots music. See map on p142  152 ❯❯ Rome Area by Area Cheap Eats 1 Sorpasso MAP B2 Via Properzio 31–33 • 6 Pizzeria dar Poeta MAP K6 Vicolo del Bologna• • 06 890 24554 • Closed Sun • € 45–6 • 06 588 0516 • € Mediterranean cuisine is on offer Innovative pizza is served here – here, and there is a deli counter Roman-style, but with a thick crust. selling delights to take away for a picnic. Laid back atmosphere. 7 Osteria dell’Angelo MAP B1 Via G Bettolo 24 • Il Rugantino 2 MAP K6 • Via della Lungaretta • 06 372 9470 • Closed Sun • € Angelo prepares excellent traditional 54 • 06 581 8517 • € Roman cooking at equally admirable One of the oldest trattorias in prices. Service charge is 15 per cent. Trastevere, with a pleasant outdoor Book ahead. space overlooking the piazza. Traditional Roman cuisine is served. 8 Pizzeria da Vittorio MAP K6 Via S Cosimato 14A • Settembrini Libri e 3 Cucina • 06 580 0353 • € A local favourite offering good MAP C1 • Piazza Martiri di Belfiore 12 Neapolitan-style pizza and antipasti. • 06 9727 7242 • € A pleasant fan-cooled interior This Bohemian cook book shop plastered with photos of famous owned by the prestigious Settembrini patrons make this one of Rome’s restaurant across the road (see p153) most enjoyable pizzerias. serves excellent-value buffet eats and drinks at lunchtime. 9 Da Giovanni MAP J4 Via della Lungara 41 • Pizzeria da Ivo 4 MAP C5 • Via S Francesco a • 06 686 1514 • Closed Mon–Wed L • € Ripa 158 • 06 581 7082 • Closed L, Small trattoria great for a meal after Tue • € visiting the Vatican and St Peter’s. A lively football theme and ever- Very authentic – food and decor present crowds are the features of could be from the 1950s, and prices Rome’s favourite pizzeria. are low too (see p77). 5 Da Augusto MAP K6 Piazza de’ Renzi 15 • 0 La Boccaccia MAP K5 Via di Santa Dorotea • • 06 580 3798 • No credit cards • € 2 • 32 0775 6277 • Closed Mon • € Die-hard, no-frills Trastevere osteria Absolutely delicious pizza a taglio complete with wooden tables and (pizza by the slice) with a few seats great traditional Roman food. available inside and a bench to squeeze onto outside. Great for a Outdoor tables at Da Augusto snack on the go.  Trastevere and Prati ❮❮ 153 Fine Dining 1 Sabatini MAP K6 Vicolo di Santa Maria • PRICE CATEGORIES For a three-course meal for one with half in Trastevere 18 06 581 2026 €€€ • • a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), Roman cuisine and seafood in an old taxes and extra charges. Fellini hang-out. Book ahead for a € under €40 €€ €40–60 €€€ over €60 table out on the main square. 2 Ferrara MAP K6 Via del Moro 1a • 6 Vascello MAP B5 Via G Massari 8 • •06 580 3769 • €€ • 06 580 6517 • Closed Tue • €€ Restaurant belonging to the superb Sardinian jewel with specialities Enoteca Ferrara. The creative food is such as giant ravioli with ricotta on the same level as the wine. and lemon zest, and spaghetti with bottarga (cured fish roe). The home- made torta di ricotta is divine. 7 L’Arcangelo MAP C2 Via Giuseppe • Gioacchino Belli 59 • 06 321 0992 • Closed Sat L, Sun • €€€ Uses high-quality ingredients to create classic Roman trattoria food. After a meal guests are given a complementary zabaglione liqueur with sweet biscuits for dunking. Very good fixed-menu deals at lunchtime. The laid-back Antico Arco 8 Settembrini MAP C1 Via Settembrini 21 • • 3 Antico Arco MAP B5 Piazzale Aurelio 7 • 06 323 2617 • Closed Sat L, Sun • €€ Well-regarded for both its traditional • 06 581 5274 • €€ and more inventive dishes. Three Easy-going, contemporary Italian tasting menus and an adventurous, restaurant on the Gianicolo. Try the intelligently researched wine list. signature risotto with Castelmagno cheese in Nebbiolo wine sauce. Book ahead for an outdoor table. 9 La Pergola Rome Cavalieri Hotel, Via Alberto Cadlolo 101 • 06 3509 2152 4 Glass Hostaria Minimalist decor. Exquisite, • Open for dinner Tue–Sat • €€€ The very finest dining experience in inventive contemporary fusion food – Rome – and the only restaurant in try sumac crusted lamb or grilled the city with three Michelin stars. calamari with bok choy and kombu, Elegant dress code (see p72). an edible kelp (see p73). 5 Roma Sparita 0 Fish Market MAP M6 Vicolo della Luce • Piazza di Santa Cecilia 24 • 06 2–3 • 366 9144 157 • Closed Sun • €€ 580 0757 • Closed Sun D, Mon • € Refreshingly different, this spartan Set on a picturesque, quiet piazza far chic place is a must for fish lovers from the madding crowds of central more interested in the fabulous fresh Trastevere. Simple Roman fare, bril- fish (direct from fishermen in Anzio) liantly executed. Try the cacio e pepe than fancy service. Line up, choose pasta, served on a Parmigiano shell. your fish, pay, and wait to be served. See map on p142  154 ❯❯ Rome Area by Area Beyond the City Walls The 3rd-century Aurelian Walls are still largely intact and served as the defence of the city for 1,600 years until Italian Unification in 1870. After that, the walls were pierced in several places so that traffic could bypass the old gates and the modern city quickly sprawled far and wide in every direction. It is undeniable that Rome’s most dazzling sights lie within the walls, but venturing outside them can have spectacular rewards. Ancient roads, an entire ancient town, some of Rome’s oldest churches, the mystical catacombs and even Mussolini’s pretentious contributions to modern architecture are all must-sees away from the city centre. Sarcophagus, Via Appia Antica BEYOND THE CITY WALLS Greater Rome 4 Trieste Pairoli Flaminio Primavalle Trionfale Pietralata N A TA Fiume Salario M EN Flaminio NO A Nomentano VI Teve Prati 5 re Vatican Stazione Centrale Roma Termini City Parione Trevi A2 4 1 Tiburtino R ELIA ROME Monti Esquilino AU Aurelio A Pigneto VI Trastevere VIALE DEI COLLI PORTUENSI Celio 6 Testaccio Gianicolense Porta San Paolo Appio- V IA Latino CAS A L IN Tuscolano A Ostiense VIA APP I A Garbatella VIA re ve NU AP PIA OV e Te A BO Ostiense 7 LO M m AN Fi u TIC CO Portuense A O OR OF IST CR VI A Capannelle Trullo EUR 0 kilometres 2 8 2 A1 0 miles 2  Beyond the City Walls ❮❮ 155 1 Ostia Antica Ancient Rome’s trading heart has a wealth of fascinating ruins that evoke the city’s earliest days, and a lovely rural site (see pp42–3). 2 EUR Metro EUR Palasport and EUR Fermi Built by Mussolini as a showcase to the world of the ideal Fascist metropolis, the EUR (l’Esposizione Universale di Roma) is disturbing to many visitors. The critic Robert Hughes described the Square Colosseum as “the most frightening building in the world”, yet the aesthetic inspired many post-war architects. Today the area is largely San Paolo fuori le Mura a residential and business district. There’s also a park with a lake, and Rome’s aquarium, boasting sealed 3 San Paolo fuori le Mura Via Ostiense 190 Metro• glass windows that face the lake. Basilica S Paolo • Open 8am–6:15pm daily Rome’s second largest church has had a history of violent ups and 0 km 20 Environs A1 downs. It was built by Constantine in Orte 0 miles 20 the 4th century, over the spot where Viterbo Rieti St Paul was buried, and for about Vetralla Civita 400 years it was the largest church in Castellana Tarquinia Europe, until it was sacked by the S4 Sutri Farfa Saracens in 846. It was rebuilt and S2 fortified, but its position outside the S3 Lake Morlupo Civitavecchia A1 Bracciano walls left it mostly ignored until the 2 mid-11th century, when it underwent Cerveteri S5 a renewal. A fire in 1823 led to the Area of Greater Rome Tivoli reworking we see today. Fortunately, map, left the cloisters, considered Rome’s Frascati most beautiful, escaped the flames. Aprilia Velletri 180 km 4 Via Appia Antica Buses 118, 218 S7 “The Queen of Roads” was Anzio Latina completed in 312 BC by Appius Tyrrhenian Claudius, also the architect of Sea 50 km Rome’s first aqueduct. The most pastoral part begins at the circular Tomb of Cecilia Metella, which was made into a fortification in the Middle Top 10 Sights Ages. Starting here, you’ll see more see pp155–7 tombs and fragments of tombs, as Places to Eat well as grazing sheep and the private see p159 gates to fabulous modern villas. As Day Trips from Rome you walk along, look to the east to see p158 see the arches of an ancient aque- duct marching towards the city.  156 ❯❯ Rome Area by Area Concert halls of the Auditorium Parco della Musica THE AURELIAN WALL 7 Auditorium Musica Parco della This ancient wall was begun by Viale Pietro de Coubertin 30 • 06 802 Emperor Aurelian (AD 270–75) and 41281 • 11am–8pm daily, to 6pm completed by his successor Probus (AD winter (closed Aug) • Adm to 276–82). It stretches 18 km (11 miles) concerts • www.auditorium.com around the city, with 18 gates and 381 Italian architect Renzo Piano’s “city towers, enclosing all seven of Rome’s hills. In the 4th century, Emperor of music” is the beating heart of Maxentius raised it to almost twice Rome’s cultural life, with three whale­ its original height. To this day, most shaped concert halls hosting daily of the wall survives. classical, rock, pop and jazz perfor­ mances. The “theatre hall” is for dance shows and electronic nights, 5 Appian Way Catacombs The burial tunnels of Rome’s while revolving art exhibitions adorn the complex’s hallways. There is also early Christians are like a honey­ a café, bookshop and playground. comb beneath the consular roads out of Rome, especially along Via Appia Antica. Grave niches stacked 8 MAXXI Via Guido Reni, 4A like shelving along dark corridors are • 06 320 1954 • Open 11am–7pm carved into the tufa. The soft volcanic Tue–Sun (until 10pm on Sat) • Adm rock is highly suitable for tunnelling, • www.fondazionemaxxi.it as it is softer when first exposed to Inaugurated in 2010, MAXXI (Museo air, hardening afterwards. There are delle Arti del XXI secolo), Rome’s some precious remnants of fresco first contemporary art centre, and engraved marble slabs. was designed by the English­Iraqi architect Zaha Hadid and is a jewel 6 Centrale Montemartini Via Ostiense 106 06 0608 • • of modern architecture. The galleries are arranged in a series of long Open 9am–7pm Tue–Sun • Adm • DA intertwining bands. The permanent • www.centralemontemartini.org collection contains more than 350 Rome’s very first power station has been transformed into a remarkable showcase for Greek and Roman art – parts of the Musei Capitolini collection (see pp28–9) that, until now, were kept in storage. The effect is extraor­ dinary, playing off the monolithic might of modern technology against the noble, human vulnerability of these ancient masterpieces (see p67). Futuristic buildings of MAXXI  Beyond the City Walls ❮❮ 157 works, and the museum is divided A MORNING WALK ON THE into two sections, one for visual arts VIA APPIA ANTICA and one for architecture (see p55). Porta San Sebastiano Museo delle Mura Foro Italico and Stadio 9 dei Marmi Via Appia Domine Quo Vadis? Viale del Foro Italico Antica Originally called the Foro Mussolini, Parco della this sports complex was under­ Ca ffarella standably renamed in the late 1940s, Catacombs of San Sebastiano even though the 16­m (55­ft) obelisk Ristorante l'Archeologia Circus of still shouts out “Mussolini Dux” Tomb of Cecilia Metella Maxentius (“Mussolini the Leader”). In imitation of every mad Roman emperor, there Start at the Porta San Sebastiano, was supposed to have been a 75­m the grandest city gate of them all, (250­ft) statue of Il Duce as Hercules. where you can visit the Museo The Classical­style statues of the delle Mura (see p67), which Stadio dei Marmi, 60 colossal young illustrates the history of the Fascist athletes, are worth a look. Aurelian Wall. Climb the stairs for great views. From here, continue straight on along the Via Appia Antica (see p155). One of the first sights you’ll come to, on the left at a crossroads, is the small Domine Quo Vadis? church – this marks the spot where Peter, flee­ ing persecution, encountered Christ and decided to return to Rome and face his martyrdom like a saint. The church contains a replica of footprints in stone, said to be those of Christ, but it is actually an ancient pagan ex voto. Quite a bit further ahead, you’ll come to the Catacombs of San Sebastiano (see p62). Take the guided tour, and don’t miss the curious fresco of a bowl of fruit Apse mosaic at Sant’Agnese and a partridge, which, according to some ancient writers, was the most lascivious of all creatures. 0 Sant’Agnese fuori le Mura and Santa Continuing on, past a mobile bar where you can buy snacks and Costanza drinks, visit the Circus of Via Nomentana 349 • Buses 36, 60, Maxentius, an ancient racetrack. 62, 84, 90 • Open Sant’Agnese Note how amphorae were 7:30am–noon, 4–7:30pm daily; embedded in the bricks to lighten Santa Costanza 9am–noon, 4–6pm the construction of the upper Mon–Sat, 4–6pm Sun • DA grandstands. Your last stop will be the 1st­century BC Tomb of These 4th­century gems are located Cecilia Metella. The frieze of in the same Early Christian complex. bulls’ skulls and garlands is Both are decorated with sublime beautiful and the cone­shaped mosaic work, Sant’Agnese depicting sanctum is peaceful. the martyred St Agnes as she For lunch, walk back to the appeared in a vision eight days after Ristorante l’Archeologia (see p159) her death. The ambulatory around for a hearty meal. Then backtrack the circular Santa Costanza has truly a few hundred metres to the bus delightful, richly detailed scenes of stop to catch the No. 118 into town. an ancient Roman grape harvest. See map on pp154–5  158 ❯❯ Rome Area by Area Day Trips from Rome 1 Villa d’Este Piazza Trento, Tivoli 07 7433 • 5 Castelli Romani Metro Anagnina, then COTRAL 2920/07 7433 312070 • COTRAL bus buses • Palazzo Chigi Ariccia: Piazza from Ponte Mammolo • Open 8:30am– di Corte 14, Ariccia • 06 933 0053 • 1hr before sunset Tue–Sun • Adm • DA Open 10am–7pm Tue–Sun; tours at This hill town is renowned for the 11am, 4pm, 5:30pm Tue–Fri & all day gardens and villa of Cardinal d’Este, weekends (gardens Apr–Sep) • Adm built in the 16th century and boasting There is much to attract in this area 100 fountains. of the Alban Hills. Swim in Lago di Albano, or visit Ariccia’s Palazzo Chigi, a Baroque complex designed by Bernini in the 17th century. 6 Frascati Metro Anagnina, then COTRAL bus • Villa Aldobrandini: Via Cardinale Massaia 18 • 06 683 3785 • Open 9am–5:30pm Mon–Fri This small town is home to Villa Aldobrandini, whose gardens offer magnificent panoramas of Rome. Canopus Pool, Hadrian’s Villa Hadrian’s Villa 2 Via Tiburtina, 6 km (4 miles) 7 Palestrina Metro Anagnina, then COTRAL bus • Museum: Palazzo Barberini southwest of Tivoli • 07 7453 0203 • Open 9am–8pm daily • Adm • COTRAL bus from Ponte Mammolo This town boasts Italy’s greatest • Open 9am–1hr before sunset daily Hellenistic temple. Among its treas- • Adm • DA ures is a 2nd-century BC mosaic. Built as Hadrian’s summer retreat between AD 118–34, the area was a vast open-air museum of reproduc- 8 Rome’s Beaches Trains depart from Porta San tions of his favourite buildings. It is Paolo; ATAC bus or metro ticket now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. required The Ostia sea strip to the city’s south 3 Tarquinia Necropolis Train from Termini or Ostiense is dotted with beach clubs and free beaches (spiaggia libera). or COTRAL bus from Lepanto • 07 6685 6308 • Open 8:30am–7:30pm Tue–Sun • Adm 9 Viterbo Most sights: Open The museum of Etruscan artifacts 8:30am–6:30pm Tue–Sat • Adm housed within this large necropolis Visit this medieval town’s Papal is famous for its 4th-century BC Palace, Fontana Grande and terracotta horses. Archaeological Museum. 4 Cerveteri Necropolis Train from Termini to 0 Pompeii Train from Termini to Naples, Cerveteri-Ladispoli • 06 994 0651 then Circumvesuviana train • 08 1857 • Open 8:30am–1 hour before sunset 5111 • Open 9am–5pm (to 7:30pm in Tue–Sun • Adm summer) • Adm • DA Established in the 6th century BC, This city was buried and preserved this town’s necropolis boasts intact by the eruption of Vesuvius in AD 79. streets, houses and frescoes. A UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Beyond the City Walls ❮❮ 159 Places to Eat 1 Allo Sbarco di Enea, Ostia Antica PRICE CATEGORIES For a three-course meal for one with half Via dei Romagnoli 675 Metro • a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), Piramide then local train • 06 565 taxes and extra charges. 0034 • Closed Mon L • €€ € under €40 €€ €40–60 €€€ over €60 Kitsch but fun. The waiters dress up in Ancient Roman gear and the decor is like a low-budget epic movie. The speciality is fish; try 5 Primo al Pigneto Via del Pigneto 46 06 701 • the spaghetti alle vongole (clams). 3827 • Closed Mon • €€ Haute cuisine by masterful chef 2 IlMAPPulcino Ballerino G4 Via Degli Equi 66 • Marco Gallotta. Popular with the locals who come for the excellent • 06 494 1255 • Open daily • DA • € and reasonably priced menu. This lively trattoria in the heart of Rome’s student neighbourhood is known for its lemon-and-cream 6 La Sibilla, Tivoli Via della Sibilla 50 COTRAL• spaghetti al pulcino. They also serve bus from Ponte Mammolo • 07 7433 a meat platter on a hot stone. In 5281 • Closed Mon • €€ summer there is a pleasant patio. The most spectacular spot in town, Booking recommended. overlooking Villa Gregoriana. 7 Ambaradam, Tarquinia Piazza Matteotti 14 07 6685 • 7073 • Closed Wed • € Conveniently located on the main piazza, this homely and authentic trattoria is known for its delicious ravioli and attentive service. 8 Pinocchio, Frascati Piazza del Mercato 21 Metro • Ristorante l’Archeologia Anagnina, then COTRAL bus • 06 941 7883 • Closed Mon–Sat L • € 3 Ristorante l’Archeologia, Via Appia Antica Pinocchio (also a hotel) specializes, as does this entire area, in the cele- Via Appia Antica 139 • Bus 118 brated porchetta (pork roast). • 06 788 0494 • €€ An elegant converted farmhouse, where you dine around the fireplace 9 Scylla, Sperlonga Via San Rocco 26 Train from • in winter and in the garden in Termini to Fondi, then bus • 07 7154 summer. Rustic regional fare, such 9652 • Closed Tue (winter) • €€ as roast lamb and homemade pasta. Popular spot on the beach great for seafood. Pleasant deck seating. 4 Trentino Via Giuseppe Sacconi 21-31 0 Ristorantino La Torre, • 06 323 6806 • Closed Sat • € Viterbo Excellent, bustling, great-value self- Via della Torre 5 • COTRAL bus from service restaurant with an abundant Saxa Rubra/train from Roma Ostiense tavola calda and pizzas made in a • 07 6122 6467 • Closed Sun D, Tue, wood-fired oven. Handy for when Wed • € you’re visiting MAXXI (see p156) and Bar-restaurant offering great local need a quick lunch before or after. dishes and wines. See map on pp154–5 Streetsmart Roman street scene Getting To and Around Rome 162 Practical Information 164 Places to Stay 170 General Index 178 Acknowledgments 188 Phrase Book 190  162 ❯❯ Streetsmart Getting To and Around Rome Arriving by Air Arriving by Road By Local Train Rome has two airports, Coaches from several There is a useful city line Fiumicino and Ciampino, European destinations to Ostia Antica and Ostia both served by interna­ arrive at Tiburtina, the Lido from Stazione Porta tional flights and with city’s main bus station, San Paolo, next to the excellent transport links with Eurolines being one Piramide metro station. to the city centre. of most popular services. Regular ATAC bus and Fiumicino (FCO), 30 km Tiburtina is on metro Line metro tickets are valid (19 miles) southwest of B, with rapid connections on local train services. the city, is the main hub. to the centre. From here, the fastest Those arriving by car Tickets way into Rome is by the are advised to leave it in a Leonardo Express, run car park outside the city The same tickets are valid by Trenitalia, which takes centre. Driving in Rome on buses, trams, metro 32 minutes non­stop to is not recommended – and local train lines. They Termini Station. There roads are congested and are sold at shops with an is also a slower train to parking extremely dif­ ATAC sticker in the win­ Tiburtina (48 minutes), ficult, even for locals. dow; at booths at major stopping at Trastevere terminals; and from and Ostiense. Buy tickets Travelling by Metro machines at smaller at the station or online. hubs. There are regular Several bus companies, Rome Metro, run by tickets valid for 100 min­ including Terravision and ATAC, has two lines, A utes (BIT), day tickets Sit Bus Shuttle, run ser­ and B, with a third under (BIG), 3­day tickets (BTI) vices to Termini, taking construction. Line A runs and weekly passes (CIS). about an hour. Touts will from west to southeast, Tickets need to be vali­ usually approach you with while Line B runs from dated on board buses the their latest ticket offer. northeast to south. They first time they are used. Taxis charge a flat fare cross at Termini. Trains Children under 10 years from Fiumicino to the run every 4 to 10 minutes are free if with an adult. centro storico; they can be from 5:30am to 11:30pm booked online for no extra daily, and until 1:30am on By Taxi cost. Minibus taxis, such Friday and Saturday. as AirportShuttle, charge Official Rome taxis are per person. By Bus and Tram white and there are taxi Ciampino (CIA) is 15 km ranks throughout the city (9 miles) southeast of the Run by ATAC, these centre. The most useful services are cheap, reliable are at Termini, Piazza city. The fastest way to the city is by bus to Termini and comprehensive, but Venezia, Piazza di Spagna, (40 minutes). There are progress can be slow in Piazza del Popolo, and several bus companies the city centre. Routes are Piazza Barberini. You can available, including Atral.listed on stops. After also order a taxi online or 11:30pm there is a good on the phone through Arriving by Rail night bus service. There 063570 or 060609. are several tram lines – However, this is more Trenitalia operates two the most useful are No. 2 expensive than hailing high­speed connections (to MAXXI) and No. 19 one as the meter is (Frecciarossa and (connecting Vatican City switched on as soon as Frecciargento) between with Villa Borghese). the driver sets off. major cities. Rome’s main For day trips, COTRAL Municipal regulation fares stations are Termini and blue buses run from must be displayed in the Tiburtina. The other rail several Rome terminals taxi. A charge is made for company, Italo, has fast out into the suburbs and each piece of luggage links to Milan and Naples. surrounding countryside. over the specified size.  Getting To and Around Rome ❮❮ 163 By Car stations, and can be used full tour lasts 1 hour and for up to 24 hours at a 40 minutes, and buses City centre streets are time and picked up at one run with a frequency of designated ZTL (Zona di station and left at another.15 to 20 minutes. Buses Traffic Limitato) which Rome by Segway offer can be boarded at any of means that only official themed Segway tours, the eight stops, which residents can drive and complete with a map, include the Colosseum, park. If you arrive by car, iPod and helmet. Unless Trevi Fountain, Piazza it is best to leave it at the you are an experienced Barberini and the Vatican. underground car park at moped or scooter rider, You can also buy “combo” Villa Borghese (entrance it is wiser not to ride tickets that include the on Viale del Galoppatoio), in Rome. Colosseum and the which is connected by an Vatican, or a river cruise. underground walkway to On Foot The Roma Cristiana bus the Piazza di Spagna is a tour with a Christian metro station. There are Rome is a fabulously emphasis. It runs from several free car parks on walkable city – everything Termini to Piazza San the city periphery, listed from St Peter’s and Pietro with stops close under parcheggio a raso the Janiculum to Villa to religious sights, and online. You can locate one Borghese and beyond can includes audio guides. at 060608 (the city infor­ be seen without having to mation service) and Saba. use public transport. Boat Tours By Bicycle Guided Bus Tours Battelli di Roma runs hop­on­hop­off cruise Visitors can use Rome’s City Sightseeing Roma trips on the Tiber between Bikesharing scheme. offers hop­on, hop­off Isola Tiberina and Ponte Registrations can be tours of the city aboard Nenni. Boats leave hourly made at certain metro double­decker buses from 10am to 2pm and stations, and you will get with audio guides in eight 4pm to 8pm (summer a rechargeable smartcard languages. Tours run only). Ponte Sant’ Angelo with an initial 5 hours of daily with a first departure and Isola Tiberina are the cycling time on it. Bikes at 9pm and a last boarding points. Tickets are available from 27 departure at 7pm. The are valid 24 hours. DIRECTORY AIRPORTS Atral Saba ∑ atral-lazio.com ∑ sabait.it Ciampino and Fiumicino COTRAL BICYCLE HIRE ∑ adr.it ∑ cotralspa.it Bikesharing TRAINS Eurolines ∑ bikesharingroma.it ∑ eurolines.com Termini Station Rome by Segway Sit Bus Shuttle ∑ romebysegway.com/ MAP F3 • Piazza dei ∑ sitbusshuttle.com site Cinquecento ∑ romatermini.com Terravision GUIDED BUS TOURS ∑ terravision.eu MAP H2 • Tiburtina City Sightseeing Roma Station METRO, BUS, TRAM ∑ roma.city-sightseeing. Piazzale della Stazione it Tiburtina ATAC ∑ atac.roma.it Roma Cristiana ∑ operaromana Trenitalia ∑ trenitalia.com TAXIS pellegrinaggi.org Italo Treno 06 3570 BOAT TOURS ∑ italotreno.it ∑ 3570.it Battelli di Roma ∑ www.batellidiroma.it COACHES CAR PARKS AirportShuttle 06 0608 ∑ airportshuttle.it ∑ 060608.it  164 ❯❯ Streetsmart Practical Information Passports and Visas insurance against medical the location of the nearest emergencies, travel open pharmacy. Many will Visitors from outside the cancellations or delays, sell common drugs such European Economic Area emergency expatriation, as antibiotics without a (EEA), European Union theft or loss. Italy has a prescription. If you run (EU) and Switzerland reciprocal health agree- out of medicine you take need a valid passport to ment with other EU coun- regularly, most pharma- enter Italy. EEA, EU and tries, and EU citizens are cists will be happy to sell Swiss nationals can use entitled to free emergency replacements, especially identity cards instead. treatment under Italy’s if you have the packaging. Those from Canada, the public healthcare system There are two 24-hour US, Australia and New if they have with them a clinics aimed at tourists, Zealand can stay for up to valid European Health the Guardia Medica 3 months without a visa Insurance Card (EHIC). Turistica. English is as long as their passport However, you will have to spoken in both. Hospitals is valid for 6 months pay for any prescriptions with accident and emer- beyond the date of entry. upfront. Italy also has a gency departments All other nationals need a reciprocal agreement with include Fatebenefratelli valid passport and visa, Australian Medicare, but on Isola Tiberina and and should consult the all other nationals should Policlinico Universitario Ministero degli Esteri check before travelling. in northwest Rome. Your website. Schengen visas hotel will usually also be are valid for Italy. Health able to suggest local doctors and dentists. Travel Safety There are no vaccinations For emergency police, necessary or recom- ambulance or fire brigade Visitors can get up-to- mended for visiting Italy, services dial 112 – the date travel safety and there are few health operator will ask which information from the hazards in Rome. In service you require. You Foreign and Common- summer, you should wear can call from landlines, wealth Office in the UK, hats and sunscreen, stay mobiles and pay phones, the State Department in out of the sun, and drink and calls are free. For the US and the Depart- plenty of water. Tap water medical emergencies you ment of Foreign Affairs is drinkable. can also dial 118. and Trade in Australia. Mosquitoes can be a pest, but are not malarial. Personal Security Customs and Spray exposed skin Immigration (especially ankles) with Italy is relatively safe, and mosquito repellent when even in a big city like For EU citizens there are going out in the evenings Rome street violence is no limits on most goods and keep windows closed rare. Drinking in excess is taken in or out of Italy when the lights are on in not a cultural norm, provided they are for per- your hotel room. Calam- although parts of the sonal use only. Exceptions ine lotion – the best way historic centre such as include firearms and to stop the itching – is not Campo de’ Fiori and weapons, endangered widely available in Italy, so Trastevere can be rowdy species and some types bring your own. If you at night. The historic of food and plants. Non- don’t, most pharmacies centre is well policed, but EU residents can claim will recommend the use pickpocketing is still back sales tax on pur- of an antihistamine. common, particularly on chases over €155. Pharmacies are crowded buses and at indicated by a green popular tourist sites. Travel Insurance cross, and if a pharmacy There are two police is closed there will be a forces, the Carabinieri, It is advisable to take out notice on display giving the military branch, and  Practical Information ❮❮ 165 the Polizia di Stato, the verbal flirtation and even many of its buildings are civil branch. They fufil inappropriate rubbing on hundreds of years old and much the same functions. buses are common. Most conservation laws prevent Crimes can be reported to of this is harmless, but alterations to accommo­ either, and both can issue can be annoying and date wheelchairs. The the crime or loss reports unwelcome. Be firm. city’s cobbled streets can (denuncia di furto o Lost property handed make for some jarringly smarrimento) that you will in to the police ends up bone­shaking journeys. need when making an at the Oggetti Smarriti Major museums and insurance claim for theft centre near the Piramide galleries have disabled or loss. Central carabinieri metro. ID will be required facilities and many hotels stations include to reclaim anything, plus have converted a few Janiculum Centro Storico, a crime report unless the rooms. Some metro stops Termini and Trastevere. object is clearly identifi­ (but not the important The Polizia di Stato Ques- able. A small administra­ Colosseo one) are wheel­ tura (headquarters) is tive fee is charged. Metro chair accessible. You’ll also centrally located. Dial Lines A and B have their have the best luck at 112 for the carabinieri and own lost property offices. restaurants during warm 114 for the polizia di stato. months, when many have Women can expect Disabled Travellers tables outdoors (although to receive much more bathrooms may not be attention than at home, Rome isn’t yet fully accessible). RADAR and especially around tourist accessible to disabled Roma per Tutti have use­ areas. Open staring, travellers, largely because ful information online. DIRECTORY PASSPORTS & VISAS EMERGENCY SERVICES MAP C4 • Via Garibaldi 41 § 06 32581 Ministerio degli Esteri Police, Fire and (Foreign Ministry) Ambulance Carabinieri Termini ∑ www.esteri.it/visti/ § 112 MAP F3 • Via Marsala s/n index_eng.asp § 06 4730 6040 HEALTH TRAVEL SAFETY Carabinieri Trastevere Ambulance Emergency MAP C5 • Via E Morosini 24 UK Foreign and § 118 § 06 5852 0900 Commonwealth Office Fatebenefratelli Oggetti Smarriti www.gov.uk/ foreign-travel-advice MAP M6 • Isola Tiberina, Circonne Ostiense 191 Via di Ponte 4 Capi 39 § 06 6769 3214/15/16/17 US Department of State § 06 68371 travel.state.gov Oggetti Smarriti Line A Guardia Medica Turistica Stazione Giulio Agricola Australia Department of MAP D2 & C5 • Via § 06 4695 7068 Foreign Affairs and Trade Canova 19 and Via dfat.gov.au/ Oggetti Smarriti Line B Morosini 30 MAP D6 • Stazione smartraveller.gov.au § 06 570 600 Piramide EMBASSIES AND Policlinico Universitario § 06 4695 8164/65 CONSULATES Largo Agostino Gemelli 8 Polizia di Stato § 06 30151 § 113 Australia Via Bosio Antonio 5 PERSONAL SECURITY Polizia di Stato Questura ∑ italy.embassy.gov.au MAP R2 • Via di San Carabinieri Vitale 15 UK § 112 MAP F2 • Via XX § 06 46861 ∑ carabinieri.it Settembre 80A ∑ ukinitaly.fco.gov.uk Carabinieri Centro Storico DISABLED TRAVELLERS USA MAP M1 • Piazza di San RADAR MAP E2 • Via Vittorio Lorenzo in Lucina 6 ∑ radar.org.uk § 06 6959 4538 Veneto 119A Roma per Tutti ∑ rome.usembassy.gov Carabinieri Janiculum ∑ romapertutti.it  166 ❯❯ Streetsmart Currency and Registration is done the collection point before Banking online, and it is essential being sent on. If speed is to have an Italian mobile of the essence for desti­ Italy is one of the 19 number, as accounts are nations within Italy, use European countries using validated by asking users the postal system’s the euro (€), which is to dial a free number. courier service, Posta divided into 100 cents. In Italy the regional Celere; for international Paper notes are in deno­ phone code is an integral destinations use a private minations of €5, €10, part of every number, and courier such as DHL. €20, €50, €100, €200 and always has to be dialled. Stamps (francobolli) are €500. Coins are €2, €1, Rome’s area code is 06 on sale at post offices and 50c, 20c, 10c, 5c, 2c, 1c. and Italy’s code is 39. tobacconists, and often The easiest way of European mobile (unofficially) at any shop getting cash is with a phones work in Italy, but selling postcards. debit card from a cash Americans will need a machine (ATM), known in triband phone. Your home Newspapers and Italy as Bancomat. Most provider will have roam­ Radio cards allow a maximum ing options, but check daily withdrawal of €250, rates carefully. A cheaper For information in English but most banks charge alternative may be to about what’s on the best for withdrawals abroad. purchase an Italian SIM source is the weekly mag­ Exchange rates offered card (you will need ID). azine Roma C’è, out every by hotels and bureaux de The main mobile opera­ Wednesday. There is also change are rarely good – tors are TIM, Vodafone, 3 a bi­weekly magazine far better to go to a bank and Wind. Rechargeable produced by and for the branch. Banks are open SIM cards can be bought Anglophone expat com­ 8:30am–1.30pm Monday for €10, including €5 of munity, Wanted in Rome, to Friday and then usually credit. They can be topped which also has a website. again for an hour some­ up at tobacconists with a Both magazines are sold time between 2.30–4pm. SISAL terminal (used for at newsstands throughout Pre­paid currency cards registering lottery num­ the city centre. (cash passports) are a bers), by buying a scratch International magazines more secure way of carry­ card (from newsagents and newspapers are easy ing money. They can be and tobacconists) or by to find around the centre, preloaded with euros, going into the phone but prices can be high fixing exchange rates company’s own shops. and they may be out of before you leave, and used There are virtually no date, making online news like a debit card. The public phones that take sources far better value. maximum daily with­ coins. Instead you need to To keep in touch with drawal is usually €700. buy a phone card (scheda Italian news in English try Thomas Cook offers telefonica) from a tobacco­ the Life In Italy website. these, as do most banks. nist or newsagent. Don’t You might also find the Many shops accept chip forget to snap off the Vatican Radio English and pin cards, and most corner of the card before news of interest. hotels and restaurants inserting it into the phone. accept credit cards. Several kinds of phone Opening Hours card are available for Internet and international calls – the The days when Rome’s Telephone best value is the EDICARD. museums and sights closed for riposo, the long Fast speed internet and Postal Services lunch break, or even the Wi­Fi is available in cafés entire afternoon are fast and hotels all over the The Italian postal system, becoming history. Most city. The city council also Poste Italiane, can be major museums and provides free Wi­Fi in appallingly slow. If using sights stay open all day, many piazzas throughout Poste Italiane, avoid send­ as do an increasing the city – all Wi­Fi zones ing registered mail as it number of supermarkets are clearly marked. tends to accumulate at and international chain  Practical Information ❮❮ 167 stores. Shops, churches deposit. It is important to DIRECTORY and other businesses that inform your insurer before still follow tradition will you travel, too. CURRENCY AND usually open at 8am or Weather BANKING 9am, close at 12:30 or Thomas Cook 1pm, open again at 3 or Rome has a temperate ∑ thomascook.com 4pm (or 5pm in summer), climate. August heat is and close between 6 and oppressive; February POSTAL SERVICES 8pm. Many museums, art snow flurries are possi­ DHL galleries and archeolo­ ble. Spring’s middle ∑ dhl.it/en.html gical sites are closed on ground keeps hotels Poste Italiane Monday. Their opening booked; autumn is less ∑ www.posteitaliane. times vary widely – check crowded, but prone to post before starting out. Last downpours. High season admission to many visitor is Easter to July and NEWSPAPERS AND attractions is an hour September to October. RADIO before closing time. Rome is deserted and Life in Italy most of the city’s shops ∑ lifeinitaly.com Time Difference and restaurants closed Vatican Radio through much of August ∑ www.radiovaticana. Italy operates on Central as residents head to the va European Time (CET), beaches or mountains to Wanted in Rome which is 1 hour ahead of escape the heat. ∑ wantedinrome.com Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) and 6 hours ahead Tourist Information TOURIST of US Eastern Standard INFORMATION Time (EST). The clock The first and most 060608 moves forward 1 hour convenient port of call § 060608 during daylight saving is 060608, the internet ∑ 060608.it time from the last Sunday information service of the Italian State Tourism in March until the last city of Rome (available in Board Sunday in October. English and Italian), with ∑ www.italia.it everything a tourist needs ∑ www.enit.it Electrical to know – both practical Roma Pass Appliances and cultural. It also lets ∑ romapass.it you make bookings for Tourist Information The electricity supply in hotels, exhibitions and Point Ciampino Italy is 220 volts. Italian concerts. 060608 is avail­ International Arrivals plugs come with two and able in Italian and English Baggage Claim three round pins, and on the phone as well, 9am–6:30pm sometimes an adaptor is charged at local rates. Tourist Information necessary – ask as you The Italian State Point Fiumicino make a purchase. All Tourism Board has very International Arrivals non­Italian plugs will also useful websites, and Terminal B–C need adaptors. there are several tourist 9am–7:30pm information points dotted Tourist Information Driving around the city. Point Navona The 3­day Roma Pass MAP L2 • Piazza delle To rent a car in Italy you is excellent value for Cinque Lune generally need to be over visitors as it includes 9:30am–7pm 20 years old and have held travel on all public Tourist Information a full driving licence for at transport plus free Point Termini least one year. When you entrance to two museums MAP F3 • Via Giovanni pick up the vehicle, you as well as discounted Giolitti 34 will need to show your entry to many others. For Inside Office F passport, driving licence a full list of participating Platform 24 and a credit card from museums and sites, visit 8am–7:45pm which to pay the security their website.  168 ❯❯ Streetsmart Shopping Tips speed up the process, many places advertise giving you a cheque for themselves as serving Rome is full of antiquities, the customs office to “easy food” meaning that paintings and sculpture stamp, which you redeem the menus are designed from the ancient past to at the airport’s Tax-Free for clients to pick and 20th-century collectibles, Shopping desk. choose from, whatever although buyers should the time of day. Only the remember that exporting Dining more traditional these will require a good restaurants open solely at deal of paperwork. If your There is no clear lunch and dinner – most taste is more contempo- difference these days of the new-wave eateries rary, shop for kitchen between an osteria, a serve food all day. implements, homeware trattoria, a ristorante and Most restaurants and lighting systems by an enoteca. A ristorante charge for bread and top local and international can be a refined estab- cover. If the menu says designers. Rome is also lishment for fine dining, “servizio incluso”, the home to many fine jewel- or a joint round the back service charge is built in, lers, from all the big of Termini station dishing although it is customary names to highly-skilled out indifferent pasta at to round up by a few artisans labouring in inflated prices to unsus- coins. If not, tip a discre- small boutiques. pecting tourists. Osterias tionary 10 per cent. High street and and trattorias are pretty Jacket and tie are designer fashion is rarely much interchangeable – almost never required, cheaper than back home, some are old fashioned although in more upmar- but fabulous bargains can places serving simple ket places reservations be found in stock houses food that haven’t changed often are. Waiters expect and outlets, which sell the in years, others chic new you to linger over your previous season’s over- establishments where meal, and won’t rush you stock and seconds. “trattoria osteria” is used (some mistake this for Haggling is expected in to signal that they are slow service). markets, but hardly ever revisiting culinary tradi- in shops. Be ready to go tions. The original mean- Where to Stay through the full ritual, ing of enoteca was simply including acting less and “wine shop”; these days Rome has a great range less interested, while the it is also used by wine of memorable places to merchant acts ever more shops that serve meals, stay – opulent grand offended and claims he and by fully-fledged hotels, chic boutique can go no lower. restaurants that want places, and a huge variety Italy’s Value Added Tax clients to know they have of B&Bs, apartments and (IVA) is a sales tax already a serious wine cellar. hostels (but book well in added on to the sticker The traditional Italian advance for the latter in price of every item. If you meal consists of an peak season). There are are a non-EU resident antipasto (starter), primo also lodgings run by reli- and spend more than (pasta, rice or soup), gious organisations. €155 in a single shop, you secondo (meat or fish), It is as important to can get the tax refunded. contorno (vegetable) and choose a neighbourhood Ask the store to help you dolce (dessert), and until as it is to find the right fill out the forms, then recently, tourists ordering kind of accommodation. take these and the only a plate of pasta Wonderful as it is to stay receipts to the customs would be treated with in the centro storico office at the airport of the disdain. But international around Campo de’ Fiori, last EU country you’ll be eating habits have arrived, Piazza di Spagna and visiting to complete the and most places – Piazza Navona, it is not paperwork. Your refund especially in the centro only expensive, but can will be posted but it may storico – no longer expect be touristy, crowded and take months. Stores diners to spend two hours noisy. The charming, marked “Tax-Free over a five-course meal. tangled streets of Shopping for Tourists” Menus have freed up, and Trastevere are worth  Practical Information ❮❮ 169 considering, although the owners and fantastic DIRECTORY area does attract a noisy breakfasts. Many B&Bs nighttime crowd. The do not have staff on the TYPES OF Ghetto and Monti are premises – not necessar- ACCOMMODATION both delightful, authentic ily a disadvantage, but be Airbnb neighbourhoods just off sure to ask how to contact ∑ airbnb.com the beaten track, with lots the owner should the B&B Association of of atmosphere and some need arise, if breakfast is Rome lovely places to stay, but served in the B&B or at a § 06 5530 2248 are still within walking local café, and if there is ∑ b-b.rm.it distance of most sights. use of the kitchen. There are also several Sites such as Airbnb, BBPlanet ∑ bbplanet.it good-value places to stay NiceFlatInRome.com, around MAXXI. The Homes in Rome and Booking.com ∑ booking.com Aventine Hill is peaceful, Go2Rome have made it with some gorgeous easy for owners to offer Enjoy Rome hotels, although the their home for short hol- ∑ enjoyrome.com reason it is quiet is that iday rentals, whether it is Go2Rome there is nowhere to eat a simple, functional city ∑ go2rome.com and drink nearby. The centre crash-pad or a Homes In Rome area behind Termini is glamorous apartment ∑ homesinrome.com packed with budget on the piano nobile of a places, but the streets are historic palazzo. NiceFlatInRome.com ∑ niceflatinrome.com unappealing and occa- Several religious sionally unsavoury. organizations also offer TripAdvisor ∑ tripadvisor.com accommodation, not Types of solely to the religious. Venere Accommodation These may, however, have ∑ venere.it a curfew and be open only Italian hotels are given an to one gender. Prices are official rating of between not necessarily low, but even campsites – is by one and five stars based they can be a good option law obliged to add the city on a checklist of facilities. for anyone (especially tourist tax to its rates. The stars are no guide to women) nervous about This varies between €3 the subtler attractions of travelling alone. and €7 per night – always a hotel, such as the decor check if it is included in or the friendliness of staff. Rates and Booking the rate quoted to you. B&Bs and apartments The tax is charged for a often provide more for Booking and hotel maximum of 10 nights. your money than cheap websites often offer huge Watch out for hidden one- and two-star hotels. discounts on standard costs. Some hotels still Websites such as Enjoy rates as it is common for charge for Wi-Fi, although Rome, TripAdvisor and prices to be adjusted acc- it is worth using your Booking.com can help ording to demand. Shop powers of persuasion to with reviews, suggestions around before you book. get it waived. Phoning and actual bookings. The best deals are usually from a hotel room is Over the past decade, to be had online and in always expensive, but since a law was passed to advance. Smaller hotels’ phone cards usually work allow ordinary people to websites are not always from hotels. If the hotel offer bed-and-breakfast secure, and it is unwise to has blocked the free- in their homes, hundreds email credit card details phone number, there will of “BBs” have opened in to them. Finalize the generally be a local Rome. BBPlanet, Venere booking over the phone or access number on the and the B&B Association use a hotel broking organ- phone card as well. Most of Rome will help you find ization with a secure site. B&Bs do not have phones and book one. The nicest All accommodation in for guest use (although offer excellent value for Rome – five-star hotels, some offer their guests money, with charming rented rooms, flats and rechargeable SIM cards).  170 ❯❯ Streetsmart Places to Stay PRICE CATEGORIES best views in Rome, it is For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast perfect for a special occa- if included), taxes and extra charges. sion or a romantic meal. € under €150 €€ €150–350 €€€ over €350 Grand Hotel Flora MAP E2 Via Veneto 191 • Bastions of Luxury glass chandeliers. Each • 06 489 929 www. • room is decorated in a marriott.com DA €€€ • • Atlante Star different theme. There are Set in a Neo-Classical MAP B2 Via Vitelleschi • two restaurants, one with building, this gracious 34 06 686 386 www. • • a courtyard and the other and elegant hotel has the atlantehotels.com €€ • with a rooftop terrace. air of refinement you A grand 19th-century Situated at the top of the expect on Via Veneto, building with old-world Spanish Steps, it could combined with great charm. The hotel offers hardly be more central. efficiency. The decor its guests attentive ser- features marble, antiques vice and extras such as a De Russie and soft colours. The free airport pick-up and MAP D2 Via del • Ailanto Roof Garden Jacuzzis. The rooftop Babuino 9 06 328 881 • restaurant boasts views garden and restaurant is www.roccofortehotels. • of the great dome of St famous for its spectacular com DA €€€ • • Peter’s Basilica, the Villa panorama of the nearby This historic hotel, a Borghese park and the St Peter’s Basilica. favourite of Picasso, has beautiful skyline of the been refurbished in a city. There is also a piano Giulio Cesare sumptuous, understated bar. The hotel is part of MAP B2 Via degli • style. Delights include the Marriott chain. Scipioni 287 06 321 • terraced garden cafés; an 0751 www.hotelgiulio • excellent restaurant; the Hassler cesare.com €€ • Stravinskij, one of Rome’s MAP D2 Piazza Trinità • Formerly the patrician most renowned cocktail dei Monti 6 06 699 340 • villa of a countess, the bars (see p122); a spa and • www.hotelhassler hotel’s atmosphere is still gym and a secret garden roma.com DA €€€ • • aristocratic. Chandeliers, on the Pincio. All of its In one of the few genteel antiques, art, Oriental spacious bedrooms are giants that’s not yet part carpets and a grand piano decorated in elegant of a luxury chain, the typify the quiet elegance muted colours and honey-coloured tones of of the public rooms. provide sheer comfort. the public rooms set the Mirror-lined hallways mood of timeless luxury. lead to elegant bedrooms Eden The luxurious suites and with marble baths. You MAP E2 Via Ludovisi 49 • the terrace restaurant can eat at outdoor tables 06 478 121 www.eden • • offer some of the most in a lovely terrace garden. roma.com DA €€€ • • magnificent views in the Located on a quiet street Perhaps Rome’s most city. Its elegant restau- close to the Vatican. illustrious defender of the rant, Imàgo, has been grand tradition, this hotel awarded a Michelin star De la Ville Roma has been the choice of for the imaginative Italian InterContinental celebrities for years. One fusion cuisine (see p72). MAP D2 Via Sistina 69 • of the city’s oldest and • 0800 788271 www. • most exclusive places to Majestic ichotelsgroup.com DA • stay, it speaks of refine- MAP E2 Via Veneto 50 • • €€€ ment in every detail. A • 06 421 441 www. • Certainly one of Rome’s superb restaurant-bar, La hotelmajestic.com DA • prettiest hotels, graced Terrazza, tops the edifice, • €€€ with fine art, marble and dominating the city (see Magnificence is the antiques, lit by Venetian p140). With perhaps the keynote in the oldest of  Places to Stay ❮❮ 171 the Via Veneto hotels, Romantic convent offers every founded in 1889. This Charmers amenity, including roof beautiful Neo-Classical gardens and a beautiful property boasts rich decor Caesar House outdoor area with lawns and antiques throughout, Residenze Romane and a swimming pool. and bathrooms with MAP R4 Via Cavour 310 • The location is serene, Jacuzzis. The Majestic • 06 679 2674 www. • despite nearby traffic. Bar is a great place for caesarhouse.com € • Public rooms feature afternoon tea, and the A small boutique hotel Venetian glass fixtures. formal Massimo Riccioli housed in an elegant old restaurant one of the top building enjoying views Lord Byron places to eat in the area of the Roman Forum. MAP B2 Via G de • (see p123). The hotel is Each room is individually Notaris 5 06 322 0404 • within walking distance decorated with antiques, • www.lordbyronhotel. of major sights, such as replicating the atmos- com €€ • the Trevi Fountain and phere of a noble apart- This refined boutique the Spanish Steps. ment. There is a Turkish hotel was originally a bath and a massage monastery, but there is Regina Baglioni service is also available. nothing ascetic about it MAP E2 Via Veneto 72 • nowadays. The decor is • 06 421 111 www. • Crossing Condotti an eclectic mix of styles baglionihotels.com MAP N1 Via Mario de’ • and periods, but all of • DA €€€• Fiori 28 06 699 20633 • it evokes opulence. Its A setting fit for a king, • www.crossingcondotti. location provides serene which it has been more com €€ • solitude that makes a than once. With extrav- This private residence perfect antidote to the agant Italian Art Nouveau offers the comfort of a hectic life of the centre. styling, wall silks, Oriental wonderful downtown carpets, paintings, marble house, with kitchenette Piranesi floors and antiques, this included. The five rooms MAP D2 Via del • beautiful hotel is a palace are decorated with the Babuino 196 06 328 • inside and out. A beautiful owner’s art and antiques. 041 www.hotelpiranesi. • wrought-iron staircase, com DA €€ • • watched over by a statue Farnese Located just off the of Neptune, leads up from MAP C1 Via Alessandro Piazza del Popolo, this is • the reception area. Suites Farnese 30 06 321 2553 a romantic boutique hotel • on the seventh floor have www.hotelfarnese.com run by a charming family. • panoramic views. €€ • The bedrooms have This belle époque mansion wooden floors and are St Regis Grand is furnished with period beautifully decorated with MAP E3 Via V E Orlando authenticity. Captivating • brocade. There are fine 3 06 47 091 www. • • trompe l’oeil fresco views of the city from the stregisrome.com DA • • decorations, wonderful pretty roof terrace. €€€ modern bathrooms and a The extravagant St Regis roof garden are just a few San Anselmo and Grand was set up by of its attractions. Rich Villa San Pio César Ritz in 1894, and fabrics and high ceilings MAP D5 Piazza Sant’ • continues to live up to the are typical of the rooms. Anselmo 2 and Via di illustrious hotelier’s name. Santa Melania 06 570 • Completely restored, it Grand Hotel del 057 www.aventino • attracts guests drawn Gianicolo hotels.com €€ • from the ranks of royalty, MAP B4 Viale delle • Nestled on a tranquil hill, heads of state, captains of Mura Gianicolensi 107 both these adjacent industry and celebrities. A 06 5833 3405 www. • • establishments are world-class restaurant, grandhotelgianicolo.it spacious and pleasant. Vivendo, a business DA €€ • • Rococo decor predomi- centre and a fitness club Located on the hill above nates, and includes tap- complete its offerings. Trastevere, this former estries and chandeliers.  172 ❯❯ Streetsmart Portrait Roma subtly coloured rooms. Sofitel Villa MAP D2 Via Bocca di • There are wonderful Borghese Leone 23 06 6938 0742 • views from the balconies MAP E2 Via Lombardia • • www.lungarno and terrace. Prints, 47 06 478 021 www. • • collection.com €€€ • murals and Classical accorhotels.com €€ • The classic Italian home artifacts decorate the Housed in a renovated inspired this luxury rooms, which lend a palazzo, this luxurious boutique hotel, created timeless elegance. hotel has a classically with couples in mind. elegant, modern interior The suites are elegant Abruzzi and offers superb views of and romantic, with MAP M3 Piazza della • the Villa Borghese park designer furnishings Rotonda 69 06 9784 • from its top floor terrace. and customized service. 1351 www.hotel • abruzzi.it €€ • Sole al Pantheon Raphael This is an old-fashioned MAP M3 Piazza della • MAP L3 Largo Febo 2 • pensione-style relic with a Rotonda 63 06 678 • • 06 682 831 www.• great location right in the 0441 www.hotelsole • raphaelhotel.com €€€ • centre. The rooms are alpantheon.com €€ • Set just behind Piazza large and each has its Noted as an inn since Navona in a burnt-siena own washbasin. Ask for a 1467, this distinguished palazzo, the location room that opens onto the hotel was the choice of could not be more dazzling view of the piazza Renaissance writer perfect. The foyer is full and Pantheon. Ariosto. Facing the of unusual art treasures Pantheon, it has painted and most of the rooms Homs period decoration in many are originally decorated. MAP D2 Via della Vite • of the rooms and modern 71–2 06 679 2976 • touches such as Jacuzzis Westin Excelsior • www.hotelhoms.it • and double-glazing. MAP E2 Via Veneto 125 €€ • • 06 470 81 www. • On a quiet shopping Teatro di Pompeo westinrome.com DA • street, this mid-sized MAP N6 Largo del • • €€€ hotel is a bit plain, but Pallaro 8 06 6830 0170 • The grande dame of antiques here and there • www.hotelteatrodi Rome’s hotels, noted for give it a gracious feel. pompeo.it €€ • its commanding location There are two roof Have breakfast under the and belle époque architec- terraces, one enclosed for arches of the first theatre ture, boasting sculpted year-round breakfasts, in Rome, built by Pompey balconies with caryatids. from which you can the Great in 55 BC and Notes of grandeur abound admire the panorama said to be where Caesar everywhere you look, with of Rome’s skyline. met his end. Rooms have sumptuous rooms and wood-beamed ceilings, classic decor. There is a a Scalinata di Spagna marble-topped furniture, spa with a pool and seve- MAP D2 Piazza Trinità • and some have great ral fine restaurants. dei Monti 17 06 458 • views. This lovely little 6150 www.hotel • hotel offers guests the Rooms with a View scalinata.com DA €€ • • style and many of the With its coveted location amenities of bigger, more Domus Aventina housed in an 18th-century expensive places. MAP D5 Via di Santa • villa at the top of the Prisca 11B 06 574 6135 Spanish Steps, this • Torre Colonna • www.hoteldomus intimate jewel boasts MAP P4 Via delle Tre • aventina.com € • marvellous views from Cannelle 18 06 8360 • Housed within a former many of its rooms and 0192 www.torre • 14th-century convent with from the trellis-covered colonna.it €€ • a 17th-century façade and terrace. The rooms are Housed inside a medieval located at the bottom of not large but are defensive tower, this the Aventine Hill, this beautifully appointed. boutique hotel sits right serene hotel has large, Book well in advance. on top of the Imperial  Places to Stay ❮❮ 173 Fora. Each of the five Fori Imperiali street, the Condotti Hotel individually decorated Cavalieri offers comfort and period rooms has a Jacuzzi and MAP Q5 Via Frangipane furnishings. All rooms are • there’s also one on the 34 06 679 6246 • soundproofed, and many terrace with views over­ www.hotelforiimperiali feature views over the • looking the Fora. cavalieri.com € • rooftops; one has a Just steps away from the terrace. The staff are Victoria ancient centre. Serenity unfailingly attentive. MAP E2 Via Campania • reigns supreme, with 41 06 423 701 www. • • service to match. The Dei Borgognoni hotelvictoriaroma.com historic building has been MAP P1 Via del Bufalo • • DA €€ • renovated and every room 126 06 6994 1505 • • This hotel provides a has a data port. www.hotelborgognoni.it modest alternative if you DA €€ • • want to be near Via Santa Maria Although just around the Veneto. However, by no MAP K6 Vicolo del • corner from the bustling means is it without its Piede 2 06 589 4626 • historic centre, this up­ charms. A terrace bar www.hotelsantamaria • to­date period building has spectacular views of trastevere.it DA € • • feels removed from it all. the ancient Aurelian Wall Occupying a 16th­century Subdued lighting and and Villa Borghese. cloister, this is an oasis of colours enhance the calm within the bustling antique accents, and the Inn at the Spanish Trastevere area. Ground­ hushed garden is very Steps floor rooms (one is inviting. Some rooms MAP D2 Via dei • adapted for disabled have private patios. Condotti 85 06 6992 • guests) surround a 5657 www.atspanish • charming courtyard Pantheon steps.com €€€ • garden, which is filled MAP M3 Via dei Pastini • This upmarket hotel is in with citrus trees. A wine 131 06 678 7746 • • a 17th­century building bar serves snacks and www.hotelpantheon.com once lived in by Danish drinks. Single­rate and DA €€ • • author Hans Christian multiple­occupancy Less than a block from Andersen. It offers great rooms are available. the eponymous temple views of the Spanish (see pp18–19), this small, Steps from its attractive Cesàri tasteful establishment rooftop garden. The well­ MAP N2 Via di Pietra • has public areas boasting equipped rooms feature 89A 06 674 9701 • • stained glass, mosaics an iPod docking station www.albergocesari.it €€ and beamed ceilings. The • and a coffee machine. Close to the Pantheon door to each room has an next to the Temple of antique print of a Rome Comfort, Style and Hadrian, this little gem obelisk, and inside you’ll Value Hotels was famous in the 1800s, find fresh flowers. when French writer Des Artistes Stendhal stayed here. The La Rovere MAP F3 Via Villafranca • exterior is little changed. MAP B3 Vicolo • 20 06 445 4365 www. The interior, however, has Sant’Onofrio 4 06 6880 • • • hoteldesartistes.com € been kept up to date, set 6739 www.hotel • • A cheerful hotel with off with antiques and old larovere.biz €€ • accommodation to suit all prints. All rooms have This quiet, family­run budgets. Warm fabrics, blue marble bathrooms. hotel is on the lower modern art and marble slopes of the Janiculum, a bathrooms create an air Condotti short walk from the centro of luxury; rooms have MAP N1 Via Mario de’ • storico. The rooms are a data ports. There’s a floor Fiori 37 06 679 4661 • charming mix of modern set aside for budget trav­ www.hotelcondotti. • and classic styles (some ellers, and a pleasant roof com €€ • with wooden­beamed terrace. One of the best Amid the designer ceilings), and there is a choices near Termini. boutiques along this roof terrace in summer. For a key to hotel price categories see p170  174 ❯❯ Streetsmart Teatropace 33 Diocletian (see p137), private terrace, and the MAP L2 Via del Teatro • this five­star luxury large rooftop terraces Pace 33 06 687 9075 • hotel provides top service offer grand views. • www.hotelteatropace. and quality. The low com €€ • lighting, warm colours Mecenate Palace In a quiet street just a and fresh flowers recall MAP F3 Via Carlo • few minutes’ walk Neo­Classical elegance Alberto 3 06 4470 2024 • from Piazza Navona, and the roof terrace is • www.mecenatepalace. Teatropace 33 occupies a a perfect place for a com DA €€ • • beautiful ochre former business lunch. With views of Santa Maria cardinal’s palazzo, won­ Maggiore (see p131), this derfully restored. Every Dei Consoli comfortable hotel’s name room in the stylish inte­ MAP B2 Via Varrone 2D • recalls a great patron of rior is different. No lift. • 06 6889 2972 www. • the arts under Augustus hoteldeiconsoli.com Caesar. The terrace café Tritone • DA €€ • is ideal for small confer­ MAP P1 Via del Tritone • Elegant and refined ences and the meeting 210 06 6992 2575 • with all conveniences, hall holds up to 40 people. • www.tritonehotel.com including Internet, hydro­ • €€ massage and meeting Nazionale a Near the Trevi Fountain rooms. Breakfast can be Montecitorio and Piazza Barberini, taken on the roof terrace MAP M1 Piazza • Tritone has comfortable with views of St Peter’s. Montecitorio 131 06 • rooms and good­quality 695 001 www.hotel • decor. The emphasis is on Forum nazionale.it DA €€• • tranquillity, ensured by MAP P4 Via Tor de’ • Located right next to the double­glazing and wall­ Conti 25–30 06 679 • Italian Parliament, this to­wall carpeting. The 2446 www.hotelforum • 16th­century palace has superior rooms feature rome.com €€ • welcomed many politicos. wood­veneered walls and This converted convent It has a regal atmosphere, bathrooms with power has a sunny roof garden especially in the marble­ showers. Breakfast in the restaurant and bar over­ floored restaurant. roof garden is a joy. looking the Imperial Fora (see p26–7). Walnut­ Parco dei Principi Business Hotels panelled interiors create MAP E2 Via G • warmth, while painted Frescobaldi 5 06 854 • Bernini Bristol tiles decorate the bath­ 421 www.parcodei • MAP Q1 Piazza • rooms. The meeting room principi.com €€ • Barberini 23 06 488 931 seats 15–80 people and • Just at the edge of Villa • www.berninibristol. has all facilities. Borghese park stands com DA €€ • • this modern high­rise, This unprepossessing Grand Hotel Plaza yet inside all is over­the­ brick building faces MAP D2 Via del Corso • top Italian court decor. Bernini’s Triton fountain 126 06 674 952 2447 • Panoramas from every (see p138). The decor is www.grandhotelplaza. • room take in greenery also uninspiring, but the com €€ • and the city’s domes. hotel is comfortable and Dating from 1860, this is There’s a gym, a pool, has excellent facilities. one of Rome’s oldest patios, lounges and a There’s a roof garden, and hotels, and is replete business centre as well. top rooms have fine views. with Edwardian lavish­ ness. Grand salons with Radisson Blu es Boscolo Exedra frescoes, stained­glass Hotel MAP E3 Piazza della • skylights, chandeliers MAP F3 Via Filippo • Repubblica 47 06 489 • and antiques combined Turati 171 06 444 841 • 381 www.exedra-roma. with modern amenities • • www.radissonblu.com boscolohotels.com €€ • produce a comfortable • DA €€ • Set in a majestic palazzo ambience. Some of the Contemporary hotel of overlooking the Baths of rooms have their own glass, wood and steel with  Places to Stay ❮❮ 175 high-tech conference faci- Locanda Carmel replete with touches that lities, and a trendy rooftop MAP K6 Via Goffredo • remind you that you are bar and restaurant. Mameli 11 06 580 9921 • in a medieval building: • www.hotelcarmel.it € • mirrors, frescoes and an Cavalieri Hilton An old-fashioned exposed ancient wall. MAP B1 Via Cadlolo 101 pensione-style place • • 06 350 91 www. • with spartan decor and Columbia romecavalieri.it DA • modest rooms. There’s a MAP E3 Via del Viminale • • €€€ vine-covered terrace and 15 06 488 3509 www. • • Located high on a hill most rooms have double- hotelcolumbia.com €€ • across the river, away glazing. A unique touch This quiet gem of a hotel from the centre, this is the kosher kitchen for is found in Termini, one of hotel is possibly the best use by Jewish guests. Rome’s busiest neigh- place in Rome for doing bourhoods. Dark wood business on a grand Alimandi Vaticano and light coloured fabrics scale, thanks to its two MAP B2 Viale Vaticano • creates an airy feel. Ask restaurants – La Pergola 99 06 3974 5562 • for a room with a balcony. has three Michelin stars • www.alimandihotels. The breakfast buffet can and is Rome’s finest com €€ • be enjoyed on the pretty dining experience (see Close to the Vatican, with roof terrace. Close to the p72) – four bars, indoor an attractive foyer and Baths of Diocletian and and outdoor pools, beauty large rooms. Terraces good transport options salon, spa, fitness centre, and a roof garden with for sightseeing. tennis courts and parks. great views are outstand- ing features for this price San Carlo Budget Gems range. Staff provide MAP D2 Via delle • quality service. On a fairly Carrozze 93 06 678 • Al Centro di Roma quiet shopping street, 4548 www.hotel • B&B handy for public trans- sancarloroma.com €€ • MAP L4 Piazza • port. Free cable TV and The overall decor echoes Sant’Andrea della Valle 3 airport shuttle. a Classical influence, • 333 577 3438 www. • with marble touches bbalcentrodiroma.com Artorius here and there. Located • € MAP R4 Via del • on one of the quieter This small B&B with just Boschetto 13 06 482 • streets near the Spanish three rooms is located 1196 www.hotel • Steps, the rooms at this between the Pantheon artoriusrome.com DA • three-star hotel are light and Piazza Navona. It has • €€ and spacious, and some an excellent reputation On one of Monti’s prettiest have rooftop views for service, cleanliness roads, this two-star and private terraces. and value for money. family-run hotel offers a Breakfast is offered in relaxing experience at the top-floor garden. La Cisterna reasonable prices. The MAP K6 Via della • rooms are spacious, com- Sant’Anna Cisterna 7–9 06 581 • fortable and elegant, and MAP B3 Borgo Pio 134 • 7212 www.hotel • there’s a pleasant bar. • 06 6880 1602 www. • cisternarome.com € • santannahotel.net €€ • This is the medieval heart Campo de’ Fiori This fashionable small of Trastevere at its best: MAP L4 Via del Biscione • hotel in the medieval comfortable rooms and a 6 06 6880 6865 www. • • Borgo next to St Peter’s quiet position on an out- hotelcampodefiori.com has frescoes in the break- of-the-way street. There • €€ fast room and a fountain is a quiet roof terrace and Friendly, clean and in a in the courtyard. The a small stone courtyard great location. The roof rooms are spacious and with a fountain out back, terrace has views of the those at the top have their where guests can have rooftops, spires and own tiny terraces. The breakfast or just relax in domes of this ancient area is quiet and still has the summer sun. quarter. The decor is the feel of old Rome. For a key to hotel price categories see p170  176 ❯❯ Streetsmart Smeraldo Centro Diffusione and free coffee, tea and MAP M4 Vicolo dei • Spiritualità pastries make these Chiodaroli 9 06 687 • MAP J5 Via dei Riari 44 • hostels a popular choice. 5929 www.smeraldo • 06 6880 6122 • There are also lockers, roma.com €€ • No credit cards No • • free maps and tourist An excellent choice for air conditioning € • information for guests to both location and quality. This religious house, next use. Hostel Alessandro is The name honours the to the botanical gardens situated to the north of emerald-green marble in Trastevere, is a bit Termini, Alessandro entrance, and there are characterless but clean Downtown on the other marble accents through- and well organized, and side, near Via Cavour. out. Rooms are clean and has a lovely garden. There simple and some have is a 11pm curfew. Hostel Sandy private balconies. There MAP E3 Via Cavour 136 • are two terraces. Colors 06 488 4585 www. • • MAP B2 Via Boezio 31 • sandyhostel.com No • Hostels and • 06 687 4030 www.• credit cards No air • Religious colorshotel.com € • conditioning € • Institutions Run by the experienced All-dormitory hostel. Enjoy Rome team (see Rooms sleep from three B&B Il Covo p169) and handily located to eight; many have MAP R4 Via del • in a quiet street near St fridges. No curfew, Boschetto 91 06 481 • Peter’s. Rooms are clean lockers, tourist info, 5871 www.bbilcovo. • and staff are friendly and free Internet access. com €• multilingual. Internet A simple but charming access; use of the kitchen Orsa Maggiore for B&B in the heart of Monti, and terrace; no curfew. Women Only with wooden beams and MAP C4 Via S Francesco • brick-vaulted ceilings. Fraterna Domus di Sales 1/a 06 689 3753 • Breakfast is served MAP C3 Via di Monte • www.foresteriaorsa. • downstairs at the café. Brianzo 62 06 6880 • altervista.org No air • 2727 www.fraterna • conditioning € • The Beehive domus.it/FD Roma ingl. Run by the International MAP K4 Via Marghera 8 html € • • Women’s House in a • 06 4470 4553 www. • A small hostel built 17th-century former con- the-beehive.com € • around a 6th-century vent, this Trastevere hos- Run by an American church and run by a tel offers 13 rooms for couple, this contemporary group of friendly nuns, women only. The rooms hotel-cum-hostel is near Fraterna Domus has are single, double and Roma Termini but is quiet small, clean and comfort- multiple-occupancy, and with a secluded walled able rooms and offers all are spacious, bright garden. It offers free excellent home-made and quiet, overlooking Internet access and meals at a fraction of the either the garden, cloister national phone calls. price at other centro or city rooftops. There’s storico places. also an organic café. Blue Hostel MAP F3 Via Carlo • Hostel Alessandro Hotel Panda Alberto 13 340 925 • and Alessandro MAP D2 Via della Croce • 8503 www.bluehostel.it • Downtown 35 06 678 0179 www. • • • No credit cards € • MAP E2 Via Vicenza 42 hotelpanda.it € • • A high-level hostel with and Via Carlo Cattaneo 23 An affordable option in fantastic double or triple • 06 446 1958/443 40147 the Piazza di Spagna area. rooms in the Esquiline. • www.hostelsalessandro. Rooms are simple but Each room has wooden com DA (Downtown • clean and the staff are floors and ceilings, and only) € • very friendly. No breakfast offers en suite bathroom Friendly staff, 24-hour is served, though the and Wi-Fi. Perfect for reception, no curfew, hotel has a breakfast deal families or small groups. kitchen, Internet access with the bar downstairs.  Places to Stay ❮❮ 177 Residences and establishment captures Residenza Farnese Apartments the charm of Trastevere. MAP K4 Via del • The rooms have views of Mascherone 59 06 6821• Apartment Rentals the local market. There 0980 www.residenza • AT@HOME: Via del Corso are also small, clean farneseroma.it €€• 300 06 321 20102 • apartments with kitchens. A great find housed in a • www.at-home-italy.com restructured 15th-century • Rome Sweet Home Vatican Suites palazzo in an area loaded • 06 699 24091 www. • MAP A3 Via Nicolò V 5 • with history. Offering romesweethome.it • 06 633 306 www. • space and comfort just a • Cross-Pollinate 06 • vatican-suites.com € • stone’s throw from the 9028 8130 www.cross- • Three historic mansions lovely Piazza Farnese pollinate.com € • in Prati have been trans- and the river. Numerous services offer formed into residence more unconventional hotels offering studio Santa Chiara apartment rentals. Prices apartments and one- MAP M3 Via S Chiara 21 • vary depending on type of and two-bedroom suites06 687 2979 www. • • apartment, length of stay of varying sizes, all albergosantachiara.com and number of people. simply decorated and €€ • Santa Chiara is situated clean, with well-equipped Aurelia Residence kitchenettes. just behind the Pantheon Via Aurelia 145 06 3938 • in three historic buildings 648 www.aurelia • Residence Palazzo and has been run by the residence.it € • al Velabro same family for 200 years. This residence-style MAP N4 Via del Velabro Rooms as well as three • accommodation near the 16 06 679 2758 www. apartments for two to five • • Vatican is very welcoming velabro.it DA €€ • people are available. The • and perfect for families. An elegant establishment topmost has beamed The rooms are stylish and just around the corner ceilings, a fireplace and clean and the shopping from Piazza Venezia. The a terrace with an unfor- area is just a few minutes’ setting offers understated gettable view of the huge walk away. The roof luxury, convenience and ancient dome. All rooms garden offers views of privacy. Guests stay in are spacious and full of St Peter’s dome. apartments named after character. Design features a Roman emperor, god, include oak headboards, Retrome king or poet. There is also marble-topped desks and MAP E5 Via Marco • a breakfast room, lounge travertine bathrooms. Aurelio 47 06 7049 • and fitness area available 5471 www.retrome.net to guests. Minimum • Aldrovandi • € three-day stay. Residence Retrome manages one Via Aldovrandi 11 small hotel and 10 well- Residenza Bollo Tram No. 19 06 322 • • equipped apartments, all Apartments 3993 www.aldrovandi • in a contemporary style. MAP K4 Vicolo del Bollo residence.it DA €€€ • • • They are in various 4 06 320 7625 www. • The residence is outside • locations throughout the bolloapartments.com the frenetic city centre, city, including the Piazza €€ • just beyond Villa Navona, Campo de’ Fiori In a quiet pedestrian Borghese in the and Colosseum areas. street an easy walk from upmarket, peaceful Piazza Navona, this Parioli district, full of Trastevere 17th-century palazzo has greenery. The furnishings MAP K6 Via L Manara • a range of apartment are handsome and the 24A–25 06 581 4713 • options, characterized by service deferential. • www.hoteltrastevere. large windows, wood Guests are welcome to net € • floors and beamed use the pool of the Hotel Located just a block away ceilings. At reception you Aldrovandi next door. from the main piazza, this can rent a bike and There is a minimum one- unassuming, modest arrange guided tours. week stay requirement. For a key to hotel price categories see p170  178 ❯❯ General Index General Index Page numbers in bold Ancient Sites (cont.) Aurelius, Marcus (cont.) refer to Top 10 highlights. Palatine Hill 20, 42, 48, Column of Marcus 125 Aurelius 37, 49, 98 A Palazzo Valentini statue 28, 31 Accommodation 168–77 (Imperial Fora) 49, 62 Aventine Hill 69 budget 175–6 Pantheon 7, 10, 18–19, hostels and religious 48, 82, 97 B institutions 176 Pyramid of Caius Banking 166 luxury 170–71 Cestius 48, 126 Basilica of Maxentius and residences and Roman Forum 10, Constantine (Roman apartments 177 20–23, 48, 125 Forum) 20, 30 romantic 171–2 Trajan’s Column 26, 48 Basilica of Neptune value 173–5 Trajan’s Markets 26, 48 Remains 19 with a view 172–3 Antonius and Faustina, Baths Agrippa, Marcus 19, 61, Temple of (Roman Baths of Caracalla 49, 115 Forum) 21 125 Air Travel 162 Appian Way Catacombs Baths of Diocletian 137 Ancient Rome 156 Terme dei Sette 124–9 Ara Pacis Museum 98 Serpenti (Ostia Antica) Baths of Caracalla 49, Art and Artists 14–15, 43 125 56–7, 97 see also Terme di Nettuno (Ostia Colosseum 7, 10, 26, 48, Museums and Antica) 43 62 Galleries; individual Beaches 158 Imperial Fora 10, 26–7, artists Bernini 14–15, 19, 53, 97, 125 in Ancient Rome 37 100, 139 itinerary 127 Canova’s Studio 118 Aeneas and Anchises MACRO Testaccio 127 Etruscan 40–41, 66 (Galleria Borghese) 25 map 124, 127 map 56 Apollo and Daphne Musei Capitolini 11, Santa Maria del Popolo (Galleria Borghese) 28–31, 54, 125 11, 38–9, 52, 115 24, 57 nightlife 128 Sistine Chapel 12, Baldacchino (St Peter’s Palatine Hill 20, 22, 48, 14–15, 56–7 Basilica) 17 125 St Peter’s Basilica Barcaccia fountain Piazza of the Knights of 16–18, 50, 126, 143 (Piazza di Spagna) 115 Malta 126 Athena Parthenos (Museo Beata Ludovica Albertoni Protestant Cemetery 127 Nazionale Romano) 36 (San Francesco a Pyramid of Caius Auditorium of Maecenas Ripa) 145 Cestius 48, 126 66 Daniel and Habakkuk restaurants 129 Auditorium Parco della (Santa Maria del Roman Forum 10, Musica 156 Popolo) 38 20–23, 48, 125 Augustus, Emperor 20, David (Galleria San Saba 126 46, 49 Borghese) 24 Santa Sabina 125 Ara Pacis Museum 98 Ecstasy of St Teresa Ancient Sites 48–9 Forum of Augustus 27, (Santa Maria della Baths of Caracalla 49, 29 Vittoria) 53, 57, 137 125 Mausoleum 98 Elephant obelisk (Piazza Colosseum 7, 10, 26, 48, statue 34 della Minerva) 99 62, 125 Augustus’s Mausoleum 98 Fountain of Four Rivers Column of Marcus Aurelian Wall 154, 156 (Piazza Navona) 60, 89 Aurelius 49, 98 Aurelius, Marcus Rape of Persephone Crypta Balbi 49, 62–3 (Emperor) 49 (Galleria Borghese) 24  General Index ❮❮ 179 Bernini (cont.) Campo de’ Fiori to the Catacombs 62 Triton Fountain (Piazza Capitoline (cont.) Appian Way Catacombs Barberini) 61, 138 Palazzo Farnese 58, 61, 156 Vision of Constantine (St 110 Catacombs of Priscilla Peter’s Basilica) 17 Palazzo Spada 59, 110 66 Bike Travel 162 Palazzo Venezia 59, 110 Cemeteries 127 Bioparco Zoo 70 Portico d’Ottavia 110 Centrale Montemartini Boat Tours 163 Santa Maria in Aracoeli 156 Boats of Nemi (Museo 108 Cerveteri 158 Nazionale Romano) 34 Santa Maria in Chapel of Nicholas V 12 Bocca della Verità 82 Campitelli 110 Chiesa del Gesù 108 Borgia Apartments Santa Maria in Chiesa Nuova 92 (Vatican City) 13 Cosmedin 51, 108 Children 70–71 see also Borromini, Francesco 53, Sant’Andrea delle Valle Parks and Gardens 139 109 Bioparco Zoo 70 Botticelli, Sandro 14–15 shops 111 Casina di Raffaello 71 Boxer at Rest (Museo Synagogue and Jewish Castel Sant’Angelo 71, Nazionale Romano) 35 Museum 110 144 Brutus, Lucius Junius 31 Theatre of Marcellus 107 Explora 70 Bus Travel 162 Via Giulia 110 map 71 bus tours 163 Il Vittoriano 82, 110 MAXXI 55, 70 Byron, Lord 65 Canova pony rides 71 Canova’s Studio 118 puppet shows 71 C Pauline Bonaparte Technotown 70 Caesar, Julius 37, 48 (Galleria Borghese) 24 Time Elevator 71 assassination 46, 106 Capitoline Hill 28, 107 Villa Borghese Park 24, Forum of Julius Caesar Capitoline Venus (Musei 68, 70 27 Capitolini) 28 Churches 98 Cafés and Bars 78–9 Capuchin Crypt and Ancient Rome 125 Campo de’ Fiori to the Museum 138 Campo de’ Fiori to the Capitoline 112 Caracci, Annibale 61 Capitoline 108–9 Pantheon 100, 102 Caravaggio 97 Chapel of Nicholas V 12 Piazza Navona 94 Calling of St Matthew 57 Chiesa del Gesù 108 Quirinal and Via Veneto, Caravaggio Trail 82 Chiesa Nuova 92 The 140 Conversion of St Paul 38 Early Christian 50–51 Spanish Steps and Villa Crucifixion of St Peter 38 Esquiline and Lateran, Borghese 122 Deposition (The The 131–3 Trastevere and Prati 150 Entombment of Christ) map 50, 53 Campo de’ Fiori to the 13, 56 Pantheon 7, 10, 18–19, Capitoline 106–13 Gypsy Fortune-Teller 30 50, 82, 97, 98, 100 cafés and bars 112 Madonna di Loreto Piazza Navona 89–90 Campo de’ Fiori 60, 81, (Sant’Agostino) 52, 90 Quirinal and Via Veneto, 107 San Luigi dei Francesi The 137 Chiesa del Gesù 108 52, 89 Renaissance and Fontana delle Self-Portrait as a Sick Baroque 52–3 Tartarughe 109 Bacchus 25 Sacro Cuore del Foro Boario 108 St John the Baptist 30 Suffragio 66 itinerary 109 Casa di Diana (Ostia San Carlo alle Quattro Largo di Torre Argentina Antica) 42 Fontane 53, 139 107 Casina di Raffaello 71 San Clemente 51, 62, 131 map 106–7 Castel Sant’Angelo 71, 144 San Crisogno 146 Museo Barracco 110 Castelli Romani 158 San Francesco a Ripa 145 Palazzo della Castor and Pollux, Temple San Giovanni in Cancelleria 59, 110 of (Roman Forum) 20 Laterano 131  180 ❯❯ General Index Churches (cont.) Churches (cont.) Corregio San Lorenzo in Lucina Santa Prisca 63 Danae 25 100 Santa Sabina 125 Crypta Balbi 49, 62–3 San Luigi dei Francesi Sant’Agnese in Agone 92 Cryptoporticus (Roman 52, 89 Sant’Agostino 52, 90 Forum) 22 San Paolo fuori le Mura Sant’Andrea al Quirinale Cupid and Psyche (Musei 155 53, 139 Capitolini) 29 San Pietro in Montorio Sant’Andrea delle Valle Curia (Roman Forum) 20 146 109 Currency 166 San Pietro in Vincoli 131 Sant’Antonio dei Customs and Immigration San Saba 126 Portoghesi 92 164 San Salvatore in Lauro Santi Apostoli 118 Cybele, Temple of (Roman 92 Santi Giovanni e Paolo Forum) 22 San Teodoro 66 133 Santa Cecilia in Sant’Ignazio di Loyola D Trastevere 50, 144 53, 98 Da Cortona, Pietro 92 Santa Maria degli Angeli Sant’Ivo 53, 89 Rape of the Sabines 137 Santo Stefano Rotondo (Musei Capitolini) 31 Santa Maria dei Miracoli 132 Da Vinci, Leonardo 118 Sistine Chapel 12, St. Jerome (Vatican Santa Maria del Popolo 14–15, 56–7 Museums) 13, 57 11, 38–9, 52, 115 Spanish Steps and Villa Day Trips 158 Santa Maria della Borghese 115, 116–18 De Marcillat, Guillaume 38 Concezione 63 SS Ambrogio e Carlo al Decumanus Maximus Santa Maria della Pace Corso 118 (Ostia Antica) 42 52, 90 SS Giovanni e Paolo 63 Del Piombo, Sebastiano Santa Maria della Scala St Peter’s Basilica 143 146 16–17, 50, 126, 143 Nativity of the Virgin 38 Santa Maria della Tempietto 52 Della Porta, Giacomo 61, Vittoria 53, 137 Trastevere and Prati 89, 116 Santa Maria dell’Anima 143–6 Diocletian, Emperor 49 92 Trinità dei Monti 116 Baths of Diocletian 137 Santa Maria in Aracoeli Cinema and Film Dionysus (Museo 108 Cinecittà si Mostra 66 Nazionale Romano) 35 Santa Maria in Time Elevator 71 Disabled Travellers 165 Campitelli 110 Clement VII, Pope 47 Discus Thrower (Museo Santa Maria in Colosseum 7, 10, 26, 48, Nazionale Romano) 34 Cosmedin 51 62, 125 Domitian, Emperor 22 Santa Maria in Domnica Column of Marcus Domitian’s Stadium 92 50 Aurelius 49, 98 Domus Augustana Santa Maria in Commodus, Emperor 31 (Roman Forum) 22 Montesanto 118 Constantine, Emperor 49, Domus Aurea (Imperial Santa Maria in 130, 131, 132 Fora) 26, 46, 69, 133 Trastevere 51, 143 Arch of Constantine Domus Flavia (Roman Santa Maria in Via Lata (Imperial Fora) 27 Forum) 22 100 Basilica of Maxentius Domus Septimius Severus Santa Maria Maddalena and Constantine (Roman Forum) 22 100 (Roman Forum) 20 Driving see Road Travel Santa Maria Maggiore battle at Milvian Bridge Dying Gaul (Musei 51, 131 46 Capitolini) 28 Santa Maria sopra fragments of statue Minerva 51, 97 (Musei Capitolini) 30 E Santa Prassede 50, 83, Vision of Constantine Egyptian Museum (Vatican 132 (Bernini) 17 City) 13  General Index ❮❮ 181 Electrical Appliances 167 Food and Drink (cont.) Gianicolo 71, 145 Emperors 49 see under Roman dishes 74–5, 113 Gibbon, Edward 65 individual names Fora, Imperial see Gods (Roman) 23 Esquiline and Lateran, Imperial Fora Goethe, Johann Wolfgang The 130–35 Foro Boario 108 von 64 Domus Aurea (Imperial Foro Italico 157 Casa di Goethe 118 Fora) 26, 46, 69, 133 Forum (Ostia Antica) 42 Guercino itinerary 133 Forum of Augustus 27, 29 Burial of St Petronilla map 130, 133 Forum of Julius Caesar 27 (Musei Capitolini) 30 Museo Nazionale d’Arte Fountain of Four Rivers Orientale 133 (Bernini) 60, 89 H Palazzo Massimo alle Fountains see Squares Hadrian, Emperor 49 Terme (Musei and Fountains Hadrian’s Temple 100 Capitolini) 34–5, 132 Four Charioteers Mosaic Hadrian’s Villa 158 restaurants 135 (Museo Nazionale Hall of the Emperors San Clemente 51, 62, 131 Romano) 34 (Musei Capitolini) 28 San Giovanni in Frascati 158 Hall of the Philosophers Laterano 131 Free Attractions 82–3 see (Musei Capitolini) 29 San Pietro in Vincoli 131 also Museums and Hawthorne, Nathaniel 64 Santa Maria Maggiore Galleries Health 164 51, 131 Bocca della Verità 82 History 19, 46–7 Santa Prassede 50, 83, budget tips 83 Hotels see 132 Caravaggio Trail 82 Accommodation Santi Giovanni e Paolo discount tickets and House of Cupid and 133 passes 83 Psyche (Ostia Antica) 43 Santo Stefano Rotondo Michelangelo for free 82 House of Livia (Roman 132 Pantheon 7, 10, 18–19, Forum) 22 Scala Santa 131 48, 50, 97 House of the Knights of shops 134 Santa Prassede 50, 83, Rhodes (Imperial Fora) Etruscan Museum 132 27 (Vatican City) 12 St Peter’s Basilica House of the Vestal Etruscans 66, 117 16–17, 50, 83, 143 Virgins (Roman Forum) EUR (l’Esposizione Stadio dei Marmi 82 20 Universale di Roma) 155 Vittoriano 82 Hydria (Villa Giuglia) 40 Explora 70 G I F Galleria Borghese 10, Ice cream see Gelaterie Faliscan Krater of the 24–5, 54, 115, 116 Imperial Fora 10, 26–7, Dawn (Villa Giuglia) 41 Galleria Colonna 118 125 Farnese Gardens (Roman Galleria Doria Pamphilj Insurance 164 Forum) 22 55, 58, 68, 97 Internet 166, 169 Festivals 84–5 Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Italian Unification 47 Fire of Rome (AD 64) 46 Antica 54 Itineraries Fontana delle Rane Galleria Nazionale d’Arte An afternoon Roman (Piazza Mincio) 66 Moderna 55, 117, 118 passegiata 117 Fontana delle Tartarughe Galleries see Museums Exploring Rome’s early (Piazza Mattei) 61, 109 and Galleries churches 133 Fontana Paola (Janiculum Garden of Delights Loggia Exploring the Quirinal Hill) 146 (Museo Nazionale 139 Fontanella del Facchino Romano) 36 Four days in Rome 6–7 100 Gelaterie 78–9 A morning around Food and Drink see also Esquiline and Lateran, Piazza Navona 91 Cafés and Bars; The 135 A morning parkland Gelaterie; Restaurants Pantheon 102 stroll 127  182 ❯❯ General Index Itineraries (cont.) Maps (cont.) Museo Carlo Bilotti 117, A morning walk on the off the beaten track 66 118 Appia Antica 157 osterias, trattorias and Museo Criminologico 66 Roman culture, layer pizzerias 77 Museo d’Arte upon layer 109 Pantheon 96, 99 Contemporanea A tour of Trastevere 145 parks and gardens 68 Roma (MACRO) 54–5, Two days in Rome 6–7 Piazza Navona 89 83 A walk around the Quirinal and Via Veneto, MACRO Testaccio 126 Pantheon 99 The 136, 139 Museo delle Anime del Renaissance and Purgatorio 65 J Baroque churches Museo delle Mura 67 James, Henry 64 52–3 Museo di Roma in Jews in Rome 108 restaurants 72 Trastevere 146 restaurants 113 Spanish Steps and Villa Museo Napoleonico 92 Synagogue and Jewish Borghese 114–15, 117 Museo Nazionale d’Arte Museum 110 squares and fountains Orientale 133 John Paul II, Pope 17, 47 60 Museo Nazionale Romano Julius III, Pope 40, 59 Trastevere and Prati 142 11, 34–5, 54, 137 Vatican City 13 Palazzo Altemps 36, 90 K villas and palaces 59 Palazzo Massimo alle Keats, John 64, 127 Marforio (Musei Capitolini) Terme 34–5, 132 Keats-Shelley Memorial 29 Museums and Galleries 116 Markets 81 54–5 Mars the Avenger, Temple Ancient Rome 125 L of (Imperial Fora) 27 Ara Pacis Museum 98 La Dolce Vita 140 MAXXI 55, 70, 83, 156 Campo de’ Fiori to the Largo di Torre Argentina Metro Travel 162 Capitoline 110 107 Michelangelo 58 Capuchin Crypt and Literary Rome see Writers Michelangelo for free 82 Museum 138 in Rome Moses (Vatican Castel Sant’Angelo 71 Lo Spinario (Musei Museums) 57, 131 Centrale Montemartini Capitolini) 30 Pietà (St Peter’s 156 Ludovisi Throne (Museo Basilica) 16, 56 discount tickets and Nazionale Romano) 37 Risen Christ (Santa passes 83 Maria sopra Minerva) 97 Egyptian Museum M Sistine Chapel 12, (Vatican City) 13 MACRO See Museo d’Arte 14–15, 56–7 Esquiline and Lateran, Contemporanea Roma Milvian Bridge (Battle) (AD The 133 Madonna del Parto 312) 46 Etruscan Museum (Sant’Agostino) 52, 90 Mithraeum of the (Vatican City) 12 Mamertine Prison 26, 63 Serpents (Ostia Antica) Galleria Borghese 10, Maps 10–11 42 24–5, 54, 115, 116 Ancient Rome 124, 127 Mithraeum under Santa Galleria Colonna 118 art and artists 56 Prisca 63 Galleria Doria Pamphilj attractions for children Monti 80 55, 68, 97 71 Moravia, Alberto 64 Galleria Nazionale beyond the city walls Mosaic of the Doves (Musei d’Arte Antica 54 154–5 Capitolini) 29 Galleria Nazionale Campo de’ Fiori to the Musei Capitolini 11, d’Arte Moderna 55, Capitoline 106–7 28–31, 54, 125 117, 118 Early Christian churches Palazzo dei Conservatori map 54 50–51 30–31 MAXXI 55, 70, 156 Esquiline and Lateran, Palazzo Nuovo 28–9 Musei Capitolini 11, The 130, 133 Museo Barracco 110 28–31, 54, 125  General Index ❮❮ 183 Museums and Galleries Newspapers 166 Pantheon 96–103 (cont.) Nightlife Ara Pacis Museum 98 Museo Barracco 110 Ancient Rome 128 Augustus’s Mausoleum Museo Carlo Bilotti 117, 98 118 O cafés and bars 102 Museo Criminologico 66 Obelisks 60–61, 100 Column of Marcus Museo d’Arte Opening Hours 166 Aurelius 49, 98 Contemporanea Opera 84, 107 Elephant Obelisk 99 Roma (MACRO) 54–5, Orto Botanico 68, 146 Fontana del Pantheon 83, 126 Ostia Antica 11, 42–3, 155 19, 97 Museo delle Anime del restaurants 159 Fontanella del Facchino Purgatorio 65 100 Museo delle Mura 67 P Galleria Doria Pamphilj Museo di Castel Palaces see Villas and 55, 58, 68, 97 Sant’Angelo 144 Palaces gelaterie 102 Museo di Roma in Palatine Hill 20, 22, 48, Hadrian’s Temple 100 Trastevere 146 125 itinerary 99 Museo Napoleonico 92 Palatine Museum and map 96, 99 Museo Nazionale d’Arte Antiquarium (Roman Palazzo Borghese 100 Orientale 133 Forum) 22 Palazzo di Montecitorio Museo Nazionale Palazzo Barberini 100 Romano 11, 34–5, 54, (Galleria Nazionale Pantheon 7, 10, 18–19, 90, 137 d’Arte Antica) 54, 58, 48, 50, 82, 97 museums for free 82 137 Piazza della Rotunda 99 Ostia Antica 42 Palazzo Borghese 100 Piazza di Montecitorio Palatine Museum and Palazzo Braschi 92 100 Antiquarium (Roman Palazzo Corsini (Galleria Piazza di Sant’Ignazio 99 Forum) 22 Nazionale d’Arte Antica) Piazza Sant’Eustachio Pantheon 97, 98 54, 68, 146 100 Piazza Navona 92 Palazzo dei Conservatori Piè di Marmo 100 Pio Clementino (Musei Capitolini) 30–31 restaurants 103 Museum (Vatican City) Palazzo del Campidoglio Santa Maria in Via Lata 12 58 100 Quirinal and Via Veneto, Palazzo del Quirinale 138 Santa Maria Maddalena The 137, 138 Palazzo della Cancelleria 100 Spanish Steps and Villa 59, 110 Santa Maria sopra Borghese 117, 118 Palazzo di Montecitorio Minerva 51, 97 Synagogue and Jewish 100 Sant’Ignazio di Loyola Museum 110 Palazzo Farnese 58, 61, 53, 98 Trastevere and Prati 146 110 shops 101 Vatican Museums 54 Palazzo Madama 91 Parco del Colle Oppio 69 Villa Giulia 11, 40–41, Palazzo Massimo alle Parco della Caffarella 69 55, 59, 117 Colonne 91 Parks and Gardens 68–9 Music see also Festivals Palazzo Massimo alle Aventine Hill 69 Auditorium Parco della Terme (Musei Capitolini) Bioparco Zoo 70 Musica 156 34–5, 132 Farnese Gardens live music 151 Palazzo Nuovo (Musei (Roman Forum) 22 Mussolini, Benito 47, 58 Capitolini) 28–9 Galleria Doria Pamphilj Stadio dei Marmi 82 Palazzo Pamphilj 92 55, 58, 68, 97 Palazzo Spada 59, 110 map 68 N Palazzo Valentini (Imperial Orto Botanico 68, 146 Nero, Emperor 38, 49, 52 Fora) 27, 49, 62 Parco del Colle Oppio 69 Domus Aurea (Imperial Palazzo Venezia 59, 110 Parco della Caffarella 69 Fora) 26, 46, 69, 133 Palestrina 158 Pincio 68  184 ❯❯ General Index Parks and Gardens (cont.) Piazza Navona, Around Quirinal and Via Veneto, Vatican Gardens 144 (cont.) The (cont.) Villa Ada 69 Via dei Coronari 92 Santa Maria degli Angeli Villa Borghese Park 24, Piazza of the Knights of 137 68, 70 Malta 126 Santa Maria della Villa Celimontana 68 Piazza Pasquino 90 Vittoria 53, 137 Villa Sciarra 69 Piazza San Pietro 16, 61 Sant’Andrea al Quirinale Passports 164 Piazza Santa Maria in 53, 139 Paul III, Pope 17 Trastevere 61 shops 140 Paul V, Pope 25 Piazza Sant’Eustachio 100 Via Veneto 78, 138 Peruzzi, Baldassare 91 Piazza Venezia 59 Piazza Barberini 61, 138 Piazzale delle Corporazione R Piazza del Popolo 60, 79, (Ostia Antica) 42 Radio 166 116 Piè di Marmo 100 Rail Travel 162 Piazza della Rotunda 99 Pincio 68 Raphael 90, 143 Piazza di Montecitorio 100 Pinturicchio Chigi Chapel 38 Piazza di Sant’Ignazio 99 Adoration (Santa Maria Deposition (Galleria Piazza di Spagna 61, 80, del Popolo) 38 Borghese) 25 115 Pio Clementino Museum Raphael Rooms 12 Piazza Farnese 61 (Vatican City) 12 School of Athens (Vatican Piazza Mincio 66 Pius IV, Pope 19 Museums) 56 Piazza Navona, Around 60, Pompeii 158 tomb 19 88–95, 89 Ponte Rotto 146 The Transfiguration cafés and bars 94 Ponte Sant’Angelo 145 (Vatican Museums) 12, Chiesa Nuova 92 Popes and the Papacy 10, 56 Domitian’s Stadium 92 13, 47 Religion Fountain of Four Rivers Porta del Popolo 118 festivals 85 60, 89 Porta San Sebastiano 67 Roman 23 itinerary 91 Portico d’Ottavia 110 Restaurants 72–3, 168 see map 89 Postal Services 166 also Cafés and Bars; Museo Napoleonico 92 Pozzo, Andrea 98 Gelaterie Palazzo Altemps 36, 90 Protestant Cemetery 127 Ancient Rome 129 Palazzo Braschi 92 Pyramid of Caius Cestius Campo de’ Fiori to the Palazzo Madama 91 48, 126 Capitoline 113 Palazzo Massimo alle Esquiline and Lateran, Colonne 91 Q The 135 Palazzo Pamphilj 92 Quartiere Coppodè 66 Frascati 159 Piazza Pasquino 90 Quirinal and Via Veneto, map 72, 77 restaurants 95 The 136–41 osterias, trattorias and San Luigi dei Francesi Baths of Diocletian 137 pizzerias 76–7 52, 89 cafés and bars 140 in Ostia Antica 159 San Salvatore in Lauro Capuchin Crypt and outside of Rome 159 92 Museum 138 Pantheon 103 Santa Maria della Pace itinerary 139 Piazza Navona 95 52, 90 map 136, 139 Quirinal and Via Veneto, Santa Maria dell’Anima Palazzo Barberini The 141 92 (Galleria Nazionale Spanish Steps and Villa Sant’Agnese in Agone d’Arte Antica) 54, 58, Borghese 123 92 137 Trastevere and Prati Sant’Agostino 52, 90 Palazzo del Quirinale 138 152–3 Sant’Antonio dei Piazza Barberini 61, 138 Viterbo 159 Portoghesi 92 restaurants 141 Resting Satyr (Musei Sant’Ivo 53, 89 San Carlo alle Quattro Capitolini) 28 shops 93 Fontane 53, 139 Road Travel 162, 163, 167  General Index ❮❮ 185 Roma Archeologia Card 83 Santa Maria della Scala She-wolf (Musei Roma Pass 83 146 Capitolini) 30 Roman Forum 10, 20–23, Santa Maria della Vittoria Shelley, Percy Bysshe 65, 48, 125 53, 137 127 Palatine Hill 20, 22, 48, Santa Maria dell’Anima 92 Shops and Shopping 125 Santa Maria in Campitelli Streets 80–81 Romans 110 antique and second- everyday life 23 Santa Maria in Cosmedin hand shops 93, 101, fall of the Roman 51, 108 119 Empire (AD 476) 46 Santa Maria in Domnica 50 bookshops 93, 111, 140, Gods 23 Santa Maria in 147 Romulus and Remus 30, Montesanto 118 Campo de’ Fiori 60, 81, 46, 126 Santa Maria in Trastevere 107 huts 22 51, 143 Campo de’ Fiori to the rape of the Sabine Santa Maria in Via Lata 100 Capitoline 111 women 46 Santa Maria Maddalena clothes shops and 100 boutiques 80, 93, 101, S Santa Maria Maggiore 51, 120–21, 134, 147 Sack of Rome (1527) 47 131 Esquiline and Lateran, Sacro Cuore del Suffragio Santa Maria sopra The 135 66 Minerva 51, 97 food shops 111, 134, 147 Safety and Security 164–5 Santa Prassede 50, 83, 132 jewellery 93 San Carlo alle Quattro Santa Sabina 125 markets 81 Fontane 53, 139 Sant’Agnese fuori le Pantheon 101 San Clemente 51, 62, 131 Mura/Santa Costanza Piazza di Spagna 61, 80 San Crisogno 146 157 Piazza Navona 93 San Francesco a Ripa 145 Sant’Agnese in Agone 92 Quirinal and Via Veneto, San Giovanni in Laterano Sant’Agostino 52, 90 The 140 131 Sant’Andrea al Quirinale shoe shops 101, 111 San Lorenzo in Lucina 100 53, 139 shopping tips 168 San Luigi dei Francesi 52, Sant’Andrea delle Valle 109 Spanish Steps and Villa 89 Sant’Antonio dei Borghese 119–21 San Paolo fuori le Mura 155 Portoghesi 92 toyshops 93, 101, 121 San Pietro in Montorio 146 Santi Apostoli 118 Trastevere and Prati 81, San Pietro in Vincoli 131 Santi Giovanni e Paolo 133 147 San Saba 126 Sant’Ignazio di Loyola 53, VAT 168 San Salvatore in Lauro 92 98 Via Appia Nuova 81 San Teodoro 66 Sant’Ivo 53, 89 Via Cola di Rienzo 81 Sansovino, Jacopo Santo Stefano Rotondo 132 Via dei Coronari 80, 92 Madonna del Parto Sarcophagus of the Via del Corso 80 (Sant’Agostino) 52, 90 Spouses (Villa Giuglia) Via del Governo Vecchio Sansovino Tombs 38 41 80 Santa Cecilia in Trastevere Saturn, Temple of (Roman Via Nazionale 81 50, 144 Forum) 21 Sistine Chapel 12, 14–15, Santa Maria degli Angeli Scala Santa 131 56–7 137 Scipione, Cardinal 24–5 Sixtus IV, Pope 15, 28, 90 Santa Maria dei Miracoli Septimius Severus, Spanish Steps and Villa 118 Emperor Borghese 114–23 Santa Maria del Popolo Arch of Septimius cafés and bars 122 11, 38–9, 52, 115 Severus (Roman Canova’s Studio 118 Santa Maria della Forum) 20 Casa di Goethe 118 Concezione 63 Domus Septimius Galleria Borghese 10, Santa Maria della Pace 52, Severus (Roman 24–5, 54, 115, 116 90 Forum) 22 Galleria Colonna 118  186 ❯❯ General Index Spanish Steps and Villa Squares and Fountains Terme di Nettuno (Ostia Borghese (cont.) (cont.) Antica) 43 Galleria Nazionale Piazza del Popolo 60, Theatre (Ostia Antica) 42 d’Arte Moderna 55, 116 Theatre of Marcellus 107 117, 118 Piazza della Rotunda 99 Theatre of Pompey 66 itinerary 117 Piazza di Montecitorio Thermopolium (Ostia Keats-Shelley Memorial 100 Antica) 42 116 Piazza di Sant’Ignazio 99 Tiber Island 146 map 114–15, 117 Piazza di Spagna 61, 80 Tickets and Passes 83 Museo Carlo Bilotti 118 Piazza Farnese 61 Time Difference 167 Piazza del Popolo 60, 116 Piazza Mincio 66 Time Elevator 71 Piazza di Spagna 61, 80, Piazza Navona 60, 88–95 Titian 97 115 Piazza of the Knights of Sacred and Profane Love Porta del Popolo 118 Malta 126 (Galleria Borghese) 24 restaurants 123 Piazza Pasquino 90 Tourist Information 167 Santa Maria dei Miracoli Piazza San Pietro 61 Trajan, Emperor 49 118 Piazza Santa Maria in Trajan’s Forum and Santa Maria del Popolo Trastevere 61 Column 26, 48, 125 11, 38–9, 52, 115 Piazza Sant’Eustachio Trajan’s Markets 26, 48 Santa Maria in 100 Tram Travel 162 Montesanto 118 Piazza Venezia 59 Trastevere and Prati 81, Santi Apostoli 118 Spanish Steps and Villa 142–53 shops 119–21 Borghese 115 cafés and bars 150 Spanish Steps 115 Trevi Fountain 60 cheap eats 152 SS Ambrogio e Carlo al Triton Fountain (Piazza Fontana Paola 146 Corso 118 Barberini) 61, 138 Gianicolo 71, 145 Trevi Fountain 60, 115 SS Ambrogio e Carlo al itinerary 145 Trinità dei Monti 116 Corso 118 live music 151 Via dei Condotti 118 SS Giovanni e Paolo 63 map 142 Villa Borghese Park 24, St Celilia 144 Museo di Castel 68, 70, 117 St Peter 17, 47 Sant’Angelo 144 Villa Giulia 11, 40–41, St Peter’s Basilica 16–17, Museo di Roma in 59, 117 50, 83, 126, 143 Trastevere 146 Villa Medici 116 St Peter’s Square see Orto Botanico 68, 146 Sports Piazza San Pietro Palazzo Corsini (Galleria Foro Italico 157 Stadio dei Marmi 82, 157 Nazionale d’Arte Squares and Fountains Stadium (Roman Forum) Antica) 54, 68, 146 60–61 22 Ponte Rotto 146 Barcaccia fountain Statue parlanti (talking Ponte Sant’Angelo 145 (Bernini) 115 statues) 90 restaurants 152–3 Campo de’ Fiori 60, 107 San Crisogno 146 Fontana del Pantheon T San Francesco a Ripa 19, 97 Tarquinia Necropolis 158 145 Fontana delle Rane Teatro Argentina 107 San Pietro in Montorio (Piazza Mincio) 66 Technotown 70 146 Fontana delle Telephones 166, 169 Santa Cecilia in Tartarughe 61, 109 Tempietto 52 Trastevere 50, 144 Fontana Paola 146 Temples Santa Maria della Scala Fontanella del Facchino Imperial Fora 27 146 100 Roman Forum 21 Santa Maria in Fountain of Four Rivers Temple of Vesta (Roman Trastevere 51, 143 (Piazza Navona) 60, 89 Forum) 20 shops 147 map 60 Terme dei Sette Serpenti St Peter’s Basilica Piazza Barberini 61, 138 (Ostia Antica) 43 16–17, 50, 83, 126, 143  General Index ❮❮ 187 Trastevere and Prati Vatican City (cont.) Villas and Palaces (cont.) (cont.) Sistine Chapel 12, Palazzo Borghese 100 Tiber Island 146 14–15, 56–7 Palazzo Braschi 92 Vatican City 10, 12–17, St Peter’s Basilica Palazzo Corsini (Galleria 143 16–17, 50, 83, 126, 143 Nazionale d’Arte Vatican Gardens 144 Vatican Gardens 144 Antica) 54, 68, 146 Villa Doria Pamphilj 146 Vespasian, Emperor 49 Palazzo dei Conservatori Villa Farnesina 58, 143 Temple of Vespasian (Musei Capitolini) Travel Insurance see (Roman Forum) 21 30–31 Insurance Vesta Palazzo del Campidoglio Trevi Fountain 60, 115 House of the Vestal 58 Trinità dei Monti 116 Virgins (Roman Palazzo del Quirinale Twain, Mark 64 Forum) 20 138 Temple of Vesta (Roman Palazzo della U Forum) 20 Cancelleria 59, 110 Umberto I (King of Italy) Via Appia Nuova 81, 155 Palazzo di Montecitorio 18 Via Cola di Rienzo 81 100 Underground Sights 62–3 Via dei Condotti 118 Palazzo Farnese 58, 61, catacombs 62 Via dei Coronari 80, 92 110 Colosseum 7, 10, 26, 48, Via del Corso 80 Palazzo Madama 91 62, 125 Via del Governo Vecchio 80 Palazzo Massimo alle Crypta Balbi 49, 62–3 Via Giulia 110 Colonne 91 Mamertine Prison 63 Via Nazionale 81 Palazzo Massimo alle Mithraeum under Santa Via Sacra (Roman Forum) Terme (Musei Prisca 63 21 Capitolini) 34–5, San Clemente 51, 62, 131 Via Veneto 78, 138 see also 132 Santa Maria della Quirinal and Via Veneto, Palazzo Pamphilj 92 Concezione 63 The Palazzo Spada 59, 110 SS Giovanni e Paolo 63 Vidal, Gore 65 Palazzo Venezia 59 Vatican Grottoes 62 Views see Vistas Pantheon 100 Urban VIII, Pope 17 Villa Ada 69 Piazza Navona 90–91 Villa Borghese Park 24, Villa Ada 69 V 68, 70, 117 Villa Celimontana 68 VAT 168 Villa Celimontana 68 Villa Doria Pamphilj Vatican City 10, 12–17, 143 Villa d’Este 158 146 Borgia Apartments 13 Villa Doria Pamphilj 146 Villa Farnesina 58, 143 Caravaggio’s Deposition Villa Farnesina 58, 143 Villa Giulia 11, 40–41, (The Entombment of Villa Giulia 11, 40–41, 59, 55, 59, 117 Christ) 13 117 Villa Medici 116 Chapel of Nicholas V 12 Villa Medici 116 Villa Poniatowski 66 Crux Vaticana 17 Villa Poniatowski 66 Villa Sciarra 69 Egyptian Museum 13 Villa Sciarra 69 Villa Torlonia 58 Etruscan Museum 12 Villa Torlonia 58 Visas 164 grottoes 62 Villas and Palaces 58–9 Vistas 63 Leonardo da Vinci’s St. Campo de’ Fiori to the Viterbo 158, 159 Jerome 13 Capitoline 110 Il Vittoriano 82, 110 map 13 Galleria Doria Pamphilj Vittorio Emanuele II (King museums 54, 82 55, 58, 68, 97 of Italy) 18, 47 Piazza San Pietro 16 Hadrian’s Villa 158 Pio Clementino map 59 W Museum 12 Palazzo Barberini Walking 162 Raphael Rooms 12 (Galleria Nazionale Weather 167 Raphael’s d’Arte Antica) 54, 58, Wines and Liqueurs 75 Transfiguration 12 137 Writers in Rome 64–5  188 ❯❯ Acknowledgments Acknowledgments Author SIME/Giovanni Simeone 4t. Reid Bramblett is an American writer who has Acqua Madre Hammam: 111tr. lived in Rome, on and off, since childhood. He Alamy Images: Agencja Fotograficzna Caro has contributed to more than half a dozen 110bl; Vito Arcomano 43cr, 99cla, 126bc, 131bl, guidebooks on Italy, and is also the author of 132bl; Stephen Bisgrove 85clb; CFimages DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide to Tuscany. 120tr; Tristan Deschamps 71cra; PE Forsberg 69b; Francesco Gustincich 84tr; Hemis 147cl; Jeffrey Kennedy is American by birth, but has imageBROKER 78t; Kadri Kalda 70t; John lived in Rome for almost 20 years. A graduate Kellerman 98tl; Gunter Kirsch 61cl; Lautaro of Stanford University, he divides his time 118br; Elio Lombardo 138ca; Marcin between producing, writing and acting. Most Łukaszewicz 74tr; nagelestock.com 11tl; recently he has been scripting and producing B. O’Kane 52br; Stefano Paterna 64t; Realy museum guides in Italy and has featured on Easy Star/Tullio Valente 79clb; Ed Rooney the Discovery Channel’s Must See Rome. 152b; Riccardo Sala 66tl; Kumar Sriskandan Additional contributor 109clb; Fabrizio Troiani 69cra; Martyn Vickery Ros Belford 120bl; Steve Vidler 108t; Alvaro German Vilela 113cl; Tim E White 83tr; Zumapress.com/ Publishing Director Georgina Dee Nurphoto/Luigi Orru 151clb.  Publisher Vivien Antwi Caffe Sant’Eustachio: 78bl. Design Director Phil Ormerod Cinecitta si Mostra: 67bc. Editorial Ankita Awasthi-Tröger, Michelle Corbis: 35crb; Elena Aquila 127tl; C.E. Bolles Crane, Rachel Fox, Fíodhna Ní Ghríofa, Freddie 64cb; Demotix/eidon photographers 63cl, 85tr; Marriage, Sally Schafer, Jackie Staddon, Anna Design Pics/Peter M. Wilson 4cr; dpa/Lars Streiffert, Christine Stroyan Halbauer 102cla; Chris Hellier 23tl; Duncan Design Richard Czapnik, Marisa Renzullo James 74bc; Andrea Jemolo 100br; Bob Krist 58br; Leemage 4clb, 34clb, 37clb, 37b, 46tr; Picture Research Phoebe Lowndes, Susie Massimo Listri 29tr; R. Ian Lloyd 89br; Araldo Peachey, Ellen Root, Oran Tarjan de Luca 29cla, 31t; Mauro Magliani 24cla, Cartography Simonetta Giori, Mohammad 24clb, 25cra; Masterfile/Siephoto 156t; Mario Hassan, Suresh Kumar, Casper Morris Matassa 74cl; National Geographic Society/ DTP Jason Little, George Nimmo, Azeem Tino Soriano 2tl, 8-9, 28cla; 136t, Vittoriano Siddiqui, Joanna Stenlake Rastelli 47tr; Reuters/Max Rossi 67cl; Paul Seheult 31bc; Sylvain Sonnet 51tr; Vatican Production Olivia Jeffries Museu /Alessandra Benedetti 57t; Roger Wood Factchecker Solveig Steinhardt, Arianna 65br; Marco Zeppetella 84bl. Vatteroni Dorling Kindersley: Courtesy of the Capitoline Proofreader Helena Smith Museum, Rome (Musei Capitolini)/Mike Indexer Kathryn O’Donoghue Dunning 30tl, 30cr; Galleria Borghese, Roma, Illustrator Chris Orr & Associates Courtesy of the Ministero della Pubblica Instruzione/John Heseltine 6crb, 10crb; Courtesy of MAXXI/Mockford and Bonetti 5b, First edition produced by Sargasso Media Ltd, 55b, 83bl; Courtesy of Basilica San Clemente/ London Mockford and Bonetti 62tl; Courtesy of Villa Commissioned Photography Demetrio Medici/Mockford and Bonetti 116cra. Carrasco, Mike Dunning, John Heseltine, Dreamstime.com: 36189341 20-21, 32-3; Mockford and Bonetti, Kim Sayer, Stuart West, Adisa 131tr; Ajafoto 79tc; Alexirina27000 24br; Rough Guides/Chris Hutty, Rough Guides/ Leonid Andronov 51clb; Anitasstudio 4cla, James McConnachie, Rough Guides/Roger 10tr, 15crb; Azurita 75cl; Yehuda Bernstein d’Olivere Mapp, Rough Guides/Natascha 146t; Maurizio Biso 137b; Goran Bogicevic/ Sturny, Kim Sayer, Deborah Soria. Boggy 26tl; Ciolca 42-3c, 130cla; Dennis Revisions Alice Fewery, Daniel Mosseri, Ankita Dolkens 155tr; Donyanedomam 144b; Sharma, Jackie Staddon, Priyanka Thakur. Emicristea 26clb; Nataliya Hora 7tr, 10bl; Ilfede 14t; Inkwelldodo 117clb; Mariusz Jurgielewicz Picture Credits 137tr, 139tl; Marcovarro 68clb; Maurodp75 The publisher would like to thank the following 104-5; Salvatore Micillo 88cla; Monkey for their kind permission to reproduce their Business Images 75tr; Luciano Mortula 1, 7cr; photographs: Juan Moyano 89tl; Roland Nagy 115tr; (Key: Key: a-above; b-below/bottom; c-center; Nicknickko 48t; Konstantinos Papaioannou f-far; l-left; r-right; t-top] 80b; Thomas Perkins 79tl; William Perry 11bl, 4Corners: SIME/Luigi Vaccarella 3tr, 160-1; 16bl; Perseomedusa 91bl; Phant 38-9, 52tl;  Acknowledgments ❮❮ 189 Photka 143t; Janusz Pieńkowski 133bl; Olimpiu Alexa-pop 92bl; Marek Poplawski 27cr, 125bl; Preisler 10cla, 116bl; Sborisov 18cl, 61tl; Scaliger 17bl, 49clb, 124cra, 148-9; Jozef Sedmak 53tl, 97bl, 132t; Olga Shtytlkova 2tr, Printed and bound in China 44-5; Sjankauskas 82bc; Krzysztof Slusarczyk First American Edition, 2002 48bc; Flavia Soprani 55tl; Dariusz Published in the United States by Szwangruber 6cla, 19tc; Tasstock 100tl; DK Publishing, 345 Hudson Street, Tinamou 34br, 35cl; Tomas1111 97t; Daniel New York, New York 10014 Vincek 135cl; Zerbor 75br. Copyright 2002, 2016 © Dorling Fiaschetteria Beltramme da Cesaretto: 123tl. Kindersley Limited Freni e Frizioni: 150cla. A Penguin Random House Company Getty Images: Gonzalo Azumendi 36bl; Bloomberg 134bl; Paolo Cordelli 93cla; Giorgio 16 17 18 19 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Cosulich 138br; DEA /G. Nimatallah 56cl; Reprinted with revisions 2003, 2004, Heritage Images 15bc; Don Klein 82tc; 2006, 2007, 2008, 2010, 2011, 2012, Digitaler Lumpensammler 12-13c; Mondadori 2013, 2014, 2016 (twice) 47clb; Stock Montage 65clb; Slow Images All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights 4crb; Universal Images Group/Hulton Fine Art under the copyright reserved above, no part 49tr; UniversalImagesGroup 156br; Guy of this publication may be reproduced, stored Vanderelst 4cl; Visions Of Our Land 3tl, 86-7. in or introduced into a retrieval system, or Ginger Roma: 122b.Glasshostaria: 73t. transmitted, in any form, or by any means Il Pagliaccio: 72bl. (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise), without the prior Oliver Glowig/Aldrovandi Villa Borghese: written permission of the copyright owner. 123cra. Published in Great Britain by Dorling Open Colonna: 141cr. Kindersley Limited. Peretti Communications: Dorchester A catalog record for this book is available Collection/Niall Clutton 140cl. from the Library of Congress. Polvere di Tempo: 147br. ISSN 1479-344X Primo al Pigneto: 73crb. ISBN 978-1-4654-4556-8 Rashomon: 128cr. Ristorante Andrea: 141bl. Ristorante Antico Arco: 153cla. Ristorante Da Pancrazio: 67tr. Ristorante l’Archeologia: 159cl. Roscioli: 76clb. Photo Scala, Florence: 11ca, 17tc, 42bl; DeAgostini Picture Library 23cb, 36tr; Fondo Edifici di Culto - Min. dell’Interno 38br; SPECIAL EDITIONS OF Ministero Beni e Att. Culturali 11cb, 34cra, 40crb, DK TRAVEL GUIDES 40bl, 41tr, 41cl, 42cla; White Images 40cla.  ColosseumSuperStock: 38cla; DeAgostini DK Travel Guides can be purchased 12cl; Universal Images Group 29bl.  in bulk quantities at discounted prices Too Much: 93br.  for use in promotions or as premiums. We are also able to offer special Volpetti: 129bl.  editions and personalized jackets, corporate imprints, and excerpts from Jacket all of our books, tailored specifically to Front and spine - 4Corners/SIME/ meet your own needs. Maurizio Rellini To find out more, please contact: Back - Getty Images: Slow Image. in the US Pull out map cover [email protected] Pull Out Map Cover - 4Corners/SIME/ Maurizio Rellini in the UK [email protected] All other images are: © Dorling in Canada Kindersley. For further information see [email protected] www.dkimages.com. in Australia As a guide to abbreviations in visitor information penguincorporatesales@ blocks: Adm = admission charge; DA = disabled penguinrandomhouse.com.au access; D = dinner; L = lunch.  190 ❯❯ Top 10 Rome Phrase Book yellow green giallo verde jal-loh vair-deh blue blu bloo In an Emergency Help! Aiuto! eye-yoo-toh Types of Shop Stop! Ferma! fair-mah bakery il forno/ eel forn-oh/ Call a Chiama un kee-ah-mah panificio panee-fee-cho doctor. medico. oon meh-deekoh bank la banca lah bang-kah Call an Chiama un’ kee-ah-mah oon bookshop la libreria lah lee-breh- ambulance. ambulanza. am-boo-lan-tsa ree-ah Call the Chiama la kee-ah-mah lah cake shop la pasticceria lah pas-tee- police. polizia. pol-ee-tsee-ah chair-ee-ah Call the fire Chiama i kee-ah-mah ee chemist la farmacia lah far-mah- brigade. pompieri. pom-pee-air-ee chee-ah delicatessen la salumeria lah sah-loo- Communication Essentials meh-ree-ah Yes/No Sì/No see/noh department il grande eel gran-deh Please Per favore pair fah-vor-eh store magazzino ma-gad-zeenoh Thank you Grazie grah-tsee-eh grocery alimentari ah-lee-men- Excuse me Mi scusi mee skoo-zee tah-ree Hello Buongiorno bwon jor-noh hairdresser il parrucchiere eel par-oo-kee- Goodbye Arrivederci ah-ree-veh-dair- air-eh chee ice-cream la gelateria lah jel-lah-tair- Good evening Buona sera bwon-ah sair-ah parlour ree-ah What? Che? keh market il mercato eel mair-kah-toh When? Quando? kwan-doh newsstand l’edicola leh-dee-koh-lah Why? Perchè? pair-keh post office l’ufficio postale loo-fee-choh Where? Dove? doh-veh pos-tah-leh supermarket il supermercato eel su-pair-mair- Useful Phrases kah-toh How are you? Come sta? koh-meh stah tobacconist il tabaccaio eel tah-bak- Very well, Molto bene, moll-toh beh-neh eye-oh thank you. grazie. grah-tsee-eh travel agency l’agenzia lah-jen-tsee-ah Pleased to Piacere pee-ah-chair-eh di viaggi dee vee-ad-jee meet you. di conoscerla. dee coh-noh- shair-lah Sightseeing That’s fine. Va bene. va beh-neh art gallery la pinacoteca lah peena-koh- Where is/ Dov’è/ dov-eh/ teh-kah are…? Dove sono…? doveh soh-noh bus stop la fermata lah fair-mah-tah How do I Come faccio per koh-meh fah-cho dell’autobus dell-ow-toh- get to…? arrivare a…? pair arri-var-eh a booss Do you Parla inglese? par-lah een- church la chiesa/ lah kee-eh-zah speak English? gleh-zeh basilica bah-seel-ee-kah I don’t Non capisco. non ka-pee-skoh closed for chiuso per kee-oo-zoh pair understand. holidays ferie fair-ee-eh I’m sorry. Mi dispiace. mee dee-spee- garden il giardino eel jar-dee-no ah-cheh museum il museo eel moo-zeh-oh railway station la stazione lah stah-tsee- Shopping oh-neh How much Quant’è, kwan-teh tourist l’ufficio loo-fee-choh del does this cost? per favore? pair fah-vor-eh information del turismo too-ree-smoh I would like… Vorrei… vor-ray Do you have…? Avete…? ah-veh-teh Staying in a Hotel Do you take Accettate ah-chet-tah-teh Do you have Avete camere ah-veh-teh credit cards? carte di credito? kar-teh dee any vacant libere? kah-mair-eh creh-dee-toh rooms? lee-bair-eh What time do A che ora apre/ a keh ora ah-preh/ double room una camera oona kah-mairah you open/close? chiude? kee-oo-deh doppia doh-pee-ah this one questo kweh-stoh with double con letto kon let-toh mah- that one quello kwell-oh bed matrimoniale tree-moh-nee- expensive caro kar-oh ah-leh cheap a buon prezzo ah bwon pret-soh a room una camera oona ka-mair-ah size (clothes) la taglia lah tah-lee-ah with bath/ con bagno/ kon ban-yoh/ size (shoes) il numero eel noo-mair-oh shower doccia dot-chah white bianco bee-ang-koh twin room una camera oona kah-mairah black nero neh-roh con due letti kon doo-eh red rosso ross-oh let-tee  Phrase Book ❮❮ 191 single room una camera oona kah-mairah l’insalata leen-sah-lah-tah salad singola sing-goh-lah il latte eel laht-teh milk I have a Ho fatto una oh fat-toh oona il manzo eel man-tsoh beef reservation. prenotazione. preh-noh-tah- l’olio loh-lee-oh oil tsee-oh-neh il pane eel pah-neh bread le patate leh pah-tah-teh potatoes Eating Out le patatine leh pah-tah- chips Have you got Avete un ah-veh-teh fritte teen-eh free-teh a table for…? tavolo per… ? oon tah-voh- il pepe eel peh-peh pepper loh pair il pesce eel pesh-eh fish I’d like to Vorrei prenotare vor-ray pre-noh- il pollo eel poll-oh chicken reserve a table. un tavola. ta-reh oon il pomodoro eel poh-moh- tomato tah-voh-loh dor-oh breakfast colazione koh-lah-tsee-oh- il prosciutto eel pro-shoo-toh ham neh cotto/ kot-toh/ cooked/ lunch pranzo pran-tsoh crudo kroo-doh cured dinner cena cheh-nah il riso eel ree-zoh rice the bill il conto eel kon-toh il sale eel sah-leh salt waitress cameriera kah-mair-ee- la salsiccia lah sal-see-chah sausage air-ah il succo eel soo-koh orange waiter cameriere kah-mair-ee- d’arancia dah-ran-chah juice air-eh il tè eel teh tea fixed-price il menù a eel meh-noo ah la torta lah tor-tah cake/tart menu prezzo fisso pret-soh fee-soh l’uovo loo-oh-voh egg dish of piatto del pee-ah-toh dell vino vee-noh white wine the day giorno jor-no bianco bee-ang-koh starter l’antipasto lan-tee-pass-toh vino rosso vee-noh ross-oh red wine first course il primo eel pree-moh lo zucchero loh zoo-kair-oh sugar main course il secondo eel seh-kon-doh la zuppa lah tsoo-pah soup vegetables i contorni ee kon-tor-noh dessert il dolce eel doll-cheh Time wine list la lista dei lah lee-stah day one minute un minuto oon mee-noo-toh vini vee-nee one hour un’ora oon or-ah glass il bicchiere eel bee-kee-air-eh a day un giorno oon jor-noh bottle la bottiglia lah bot-teel-yah Monday lunedì loo-neh-dee knife il coltello eel kol-tell-oh Tuesday martedì mar-teh-dee fork la forchetta lah for-ket-tah Wednesday mercoledì mair-koh-leh-dee spoon il cucchiaio eel koo-kee- Thursday giovedì joh-veh-dee eye-oh Friday venerdì ven-air-dee Saturday sabato sah-bah-toh Menu Decoder Sunday domenica doh-meh-nee-ka l’acqua lah-kwah mineral water minerale meenair-ah-leh Numbers gassata/ gah-zah-tah/ fizzy 1 uno oo-noh naturale nah-too-rah-leh still 2 due doo-eh agnello ah-niell-oh lamb 3 tre treh aglio al-ee-oh garlic 4 quattro kwat-roh al forno al for-noh baked 5 cinque ching-kweh alla griglia ah-lah greel-yah grilled 6 sei say-ee la birra lah beer-rah beer 7 sette set-teh la bistecca lah bee-stek-ah steak 8 otto ot-toh il burro eel boor-oh butter 9 nove noh-veh il caffè eel kah-feh coffee 10 dieci dee-eh-chee la carne la kar-neh meat 11 undici oon-dee-chee carne di kar-neh dee pork 17 diciassette dee-chah-set-teh maiale mah-yah-leh 18 diciotto dee-chot-toh la cipolla la chip-oh-lah onion 19 diciannove dee-cha-noh-veh il formaggio eel for-mad-joh cheese 20 venti ven-tee le fragole leh frah-goh-leh strawberries 30 trenta tren-tah il fritto eel free-toh mixed fried 40 quaranta kwah-ran-tah misto mees-toh seafood 50 cinquanta ching-kwan-tah la frutta la froot-tah fruit 60 sessanta sess-an-tah frutti di froo-tee dee seafood 70 settanta set-tan-tah mare mah-reh 80 ottanta ot-tan-tah i funghi ee foon-ghee mushrooms 90 novanta noh-van-tah i gamberi ee gam-bair-ee prawns 100 cento chen-toh il gelato eel jel-lah-toh ice cream 1,000 mille mee-leh  192 ❯❯ Street Index Street Index Alberto, Via Carlo F3 Collegio Romano, Via del Monte Brianzo, Via di L1 San G. in Laterano, Via di Alessandrina, Via P4 N3 Monte dei Cenci, Via M5 F5 Angelico, Viale B1 Colonna, Piazza N2 Monte di Pietà, Piazza del San Gregorio, Via di E5 Appia Nuova, Via G5 Colosseo, Piazza del R6 L4 San Lorenzo in Lucina, Arenula, Largo M4 Conciliazione, Via della B3 Monte Testaccio, Via D6 Pza. M1 Arenula, Via L5 Condotti, Via dei D2 Montecitorio, Piazza di San Marco, Piazza N4 Arnaldo da Brescia, Consolazione, Piazza M2 San Pancrazio, Via di B5 Lungot. C1 della N6 Moro, Via del K6 San Pietro in Vincoli, Augusta, Lungotevere in Coppelle, Piazza M2 Muratte, Via della N2 Piazza R5 D2 Coppelle, Via M2 Muro Torto, Viale del D2 San Pietro, Piazza B3 Aurelia Antica, Via A4 Coronari, Via dei K2 Navicella, Via della E5 San Salvatore in Lauro, Aurelia, Via A3 Corso, Via del N3 Navona, Piazza L2 Pza. K2 Aventino, Lungotevere Crescenzi, Salita de M3 Nazionale, Via Q3 San Silvestro, Piazza N1 D5 Crescenzio, Via C2 Nicola, Viale E. de F3 Sangallo, Lungotevere Aventino, Viale E5 Crispi, Via Francesco P1 Oratorio, Piazza d’ N2 del J3 Babuino, Via del D2 Croce, Via della D2 Orfani, Via d’ M2 Sannio, Via F5 Banchi Nuovi, Via dei J2 Depretis, Via Agostino E3 Orlando, Via V. Emanuele Sant’ Apollinare, Piazza L2 Banchi Vecchi, Via dei J3 Doria, Via Andrea A2 E3 Sant’ Agostino, Via di L2 Banco Santo Spirito, Via Due Macelli, Via P1 Ostiense, Via D6 Sant’ Eustachio, Piazza M3 del J2 Farnese, Piazza K4 Ottaviano, Via B2 Sant’ Ignazio, Piazza di N3 Barberini, Piazza Q1 Farnesi, Via dei K4 Pace, Via della K3 Sant’ Ignazio, Via N3 Barberini, Via Q1 Farnesina, Lungotevere Panetteria, Via della P2 Santa Dorotea, Via di K5 Barletta, Via B2 della J4 Panisperna, Via Q4 Santa Maria dell’ Anima, Belle Arti, Viale delle D1 Filiberto, Via Emanuele F4 Paradiso, Piazza del L4 V. di L3 Biscione, Piazza del L4 Fiori, Campo de’ L4 Parlamento, Piazza del M1 Santa Maria in Trastevere, Bocca della Verità, Piazza Firenze, Piazza M1 Parlamento, Via del M1 Pza. K6 N6 Flaminia, Via C1 Pastini, Via dei M2 Santa Sabina, Via di D5 Bologna, Vicolo del K6 Florida, Via M4 Pellegrino, Via del K3 Santi Apostoli, Via N3 Borghese, Piazza M1 Fontanella Borghese, Via Piave, Via F2 Santo Spirito, Borgo B3 Botteghe Oscure, Via M1 Piemonte, Via E2 Sanzio, Lungotevere delle M4 Fori Imperiali, Via dei P4 Pigna, Piazza della M3 Raffaello L6 Britannia, Via G6 Fossa, Via della K3 Pilotta, Piazza della P3 Savoia, Via Ludovico di D2 Cairoli, Piazza Benedetto Galvani, Via D6 Pilotta, Via della P3 Scala, Via della K6 L5 Gambero, Via del N1 Pinciana, Via E1 Scrofa, Via della L1 Campidoglio, Piazza del Garibaldi, Piazza Pio XII, Piazza B3 Sistina, Via Q1 P5 Giuseppe B4 Pio, Borgo B3 Solferino, Via F3 Campitelli, Piazza N5 Garibaldi, Via Giuseppe Piramide Cestia, Via della Spagna, Piazza di D2 Campo Marzio, Via di M2 C4 D6 Spezia, Via la G5 Cancelleria, Piazza della Gesù, Piazza del M4 Plebiscito, Via del N4 Stamperia, Via della P2 L4 Gesù, Via del M3 Polo, Viale Marco D6 Teatro di Marcello, Via del Capo di Ferro, Via L4 Giolitti, Via Giovanni F3 Popolo, Piazza del D2 N4 Cappellari, Via dei K4 Giubbonari, Via dei L4 Porta Angelica, Via di B2 Terme di Caracalla, Via Capranica, Piazza M2 Giulia, Via J3 Porta Cavalleggeri, Via B3 delle E5 Castello, Lungotevere K1 Governo Vecchio, Via del Porta Maggiore, Via G4 Testaccio, Lungotevere Cavalieri di Malta, Piazza K3 Portico d’Ottavia, Via M5 C6 dei D5 Grotte, Vicolo delle L4 Portuense, Via C6 Tiburtina, Via G3 Cavour, Piazza C2 Italia, Corso d’ E2 Prati, Lungotevere L1 Tor di Nona, Lungotevere Cavour, Via R4 IV Novembre, Via P3 Pretorio, Viale Castro F2 K2 Cenci, Lungotevere dei Lanza, Via Giovanni E4 Quattro Fontane, Via Tor Sanguigna, Piazza di M5 Leone IV, Via B2 delle Q1 L2 Cenci, Piazza M5 Librari, Largo dei L4 Quirinale, Piazza del P2 Torre Argentina, Largo di Cerchi, Via dei D5 Luce, Via della M6 Quirinale, Via del Q2 M4 Cernaia, Via F2 Lungara, Via della J5 Renzi, Piazza de’ K6 Torre Argentina, Via di M3 Cesare, Viale Giulio B2 Lungaretta, Via della K6 Repubblica, Piazza della Trastevere, Viale di C5 Cestari, Via dei M3 Maddelena, Via della M2 E3 Trevi, Piazza di P2 Chiavari, Via dei L4 Magnanapoli, Largo Q4 Rinascimento, Corso del Tritone, Via del P1 Chiesa Nuova, Piazza Manara, Luciano Via C5 L3 Vaticano, Lungotevere J1 della K3 Margutta, Via D2 Ripa, Lungotevere D5 Veneto, Via Vittorio E2 Cinque Lune, Piazza delle Mario de’ Fiori, Via D2 Ripetta, Via di D2 Venezia, Piazza N4 L2 Marmorata, Via D5 Risorgimento, Piazza del Vidoni, Piazza L4 Cinque, Vicolo del K6 Marzio, Lungotevere L1 B2 Villa Pamphilj, Viale di B5 Circo Massimo, Via Mattei, Piazza M5 Rotonda, Piazza della M3 Vittorio Emanuele II, del D5 Mazzini, Viale Giuseppe C1 Rotonda, Via delle M3 Corso J2 Claudia, Via E5 Merulana, Via F4 San Cosimato, Piazza C5 XX Settembre, Via R1 Clementino, Via di M1 Minerva, Piazza della M3 San Francesco a Ripa, Via XXIV Maggio, Via Q3 Cola di Rienzo, Via C2 Monserrato, Via K4 C5 Zanardelli, Via L2